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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/journalofdiscove1864spek 


JOURNAL 


THE  DISCOVERY 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


BY 

JOHN  HANNING 


I 0 

SPEKE, 


CAPTAIN  H.  M.  INDIAN  ARMY, 

FELLOW  AND  GOLD  MEDALIST  OF  THE  LOYAL  GEOGEAPHICAL  SOCIETY,  HON.  COEE.  MEMBEE  AND 
GOLD  MEDALIST  OF  THE  FEENOH  GEOGEAPHICAL  SOCIETY,  ETC. 


OTttf)  IHap  anti  portraits,  anti  Numerous  illustrations, 

CHIEFLY  FEOM  DRAWINGS  BY  CAPTAIN  GRANT. 


NEW  YORK: 

HARPER  & BROTHERS,  PUBLISHERS, 

FRANKLIN  SQUARE- 


18  64. 


1 4-AiT 


TO 

THOSE  KIND  FRIENDS 

WHO  THOUGHT  OF  US,  AND  RAISED  AN  EXPEDITION  TO  SUCCOR  US,  WHEN 
WE  WERE  SUPPOSED  TO  BE  IN  GREAT  DANGER  IN 
THE  CENTRE  OF  AFRICA, 

THIS  WORK 

3s  (Sratefnllg  Debiratcb. 


J.  H.  SPEKE. 


Jobdans,  December,  1S63. 


CONTENTS, 


CHAPTER  I. 

LONDON  TO  ZANZIBAR,  1859. 

The  Design. — The  Preparations. — Departure. — The  Cape. — The  Zulu  Kafirs  — 
Turtle-turning. — Capture  of  a Slaver. — Arrive  at  Zanzibar. — Local  Politics  and 
Hews  since  last  Visit. — Organization  of  the  Expedition Page  31 

CHAPTER  II. 

UZARAMO. 

The  Nature  of  the  Country. — The  Order  of  March. — The  Beginning  of  our  Taxa- 
tion.— Sultan  Lion’s  Claw  and  Sultan  Monkey’s  Tail.— The  Kingani. — Jealousies 
and  Difficulties  in  the  Camp. — The  Murderer  of  M.  Maizan 43 

CHAPTER  HI. 

USAGARA. 

Nature  of  the  Country. — Resumption  of  the  March. — A Hunt. — Bombay  and  Baraka. 
— The  Slave-hunters. — The  Ivory-merchants. — Collection  of  Natural-history  Spec- 
imens.— A frightened  Village. — Tracking  a Mule 56 

CHAPTER  IV. 

TJGOGO,  AND  THE  WILDERNESS  OP  MGIJNDA  MKHALI. 

The  Lie  of  the  Country. — Rhinoceros-stalking. — Scuffle  of  Villagers  over  a Carcass. 
— Chief  “Short-legs’’  and  his  Successor. — Buffalo-shooting. — Getting  Lost. — A 
Troublesome  Sultan. — Desertions  from  the  Camp. — Getting  Plundered. — Wilder- 


ness March. — Diplomatic  Relations  with  the  Local  Powers.  — Manua  Sera's 
Story. — Christmas. — The  Relief  from  Kaze 73 


CHAPTER  V. 

U-N-YA-HUEZI. 

The  Country  and  People  of  U-n-ya-muezi. — Kaze",  the  Capital. — Old  Mfisa. — The 
naked  Wakidi. — The  N’yanza,  and  the  Question  of  the  River  running  in  or  out. 
— The  Contest  between  Mohinna  and  “ Short-legs.”— Eamine. — The  Arabs  and 
Local  Wars. — The  Sultana  of  Unyambewa. — Ungflrue  “the  Pig.” — Pillage...  98 

CHAPTER  VI. 

TJZINZA. 

The  Politics  of  Uzinza. — 1 The  Wahuma.— “The  Pig’s”  Trick.— First  Taste  of  Usui 
Taxation. — Pillaged  by  Mfumbi. — Pillaged  by  Makaka. — Pillaged  by  Lume'resi. 
—Grant  stripped  by  M’yonga. — Stripped  again  by  Riffle.  — 1 Terrors  and  Defec- 
tions in  the  Camp.— Driven  back  to  Kaze'  with  new  Tribulations  and  Impedi- 
ments  137 


M OOOOni 


X 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VII. 
usui. 

Taxation  recommenced. — A great  Doctor. — Suwarora  Pillaging. — The  Arabs. — 
Conference  with  an  Embassador  from  Uganda. — Disputes  in  Camp. — Rivalry  of 
Bombay  and  Baraka. — Departure  from  the  inhospitable  Districts Page  178 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

KARAGUE. 

Relief  from  Protectors  aud  Pillagers. — The  Scenery  and  Geology. — Meeting  with 
the  friendly  King  Rumanika. — His  Hospitalities  and  Attention. — His  Services 
to  the  Expedition. — Philosophical  and  Theological  Inquiries. — The  Royal  Fam- 
ily of  Karagfie. — The  M-fumbiro  Mountain. — Navigation  of  “The  Little  Winder- 
mere.” — The  New-moon  Levee. — Rhinoceros  and  Hippopotamus  Hunting. — 
Measurement  of  a fattened  Queen. — Political  Polygamy. — Christmas. — Rumors 
of  Petherick’s  Expedition. — Arrangements  to  meet  it. — March  to  Uganda....  197 

CHAPTER  IX) 

HISTORY  OF  THE  WAHUMA. 

The  Abyssinians  and  Gallas. — Theory  of  Conquest  of  inferior  by  superior  Races. — 
The  Wahuma  and  the  Kingdom  of  Kittara. — Legendary  History  of  the  Kingdom 
of  Uganda. — Its  Constitution,  and  the  Ceremonials  of  the  Court 241 

CHAPTER  Xy' 

KARAGUE  AND  UGANDA. 

Escape  from  Protectors. — Cross  the  Kitangiild,  the  first  Affluent  of  the  Nile. — Enter 
Uddu. — Uganda. — A rich  Country. — Driving  away  the  Devil. — A Conflict  in  the 
Camp. — A pretending  Prince. — Three  Pages  with  a diplomatic  Message  from  the 
King  of  Uganda. — Crime  in  Uganda 255 

CHAPTER  XI. 

PALACE,  UGANDA. 

Preparations  for  the  Reception  at  the  Court  of  Mtesa,  King  of  Uganda. — The  Cere- 
monial.— African  Diplomacy  and  Dignity. — Feats  with  the  Rifle. — Cruelty,  and 
Wastefulness  of  Life. — The  Pages. — The  Queen-dowager  of  Uganda. — Her  Court 
Reception. — I negotiate  for  a Palace. — Conversations  with  the  King  and  Queen. 
— The  Queen’s  grand  Entertainment. — Royal  Dissipation 280 

CHAPTER  XII. 

palace,  Uganda — Continued. 

Continued  diplomatic  Difficulties. — Negro  Chaffing. — The  King  in  a new  Costume. 
— Adjutant  and  Heron  Shooting  at  Court. — My  Residence  changed. — Scenes  at 
Court. — The  Kamraviona,  or  Commander-in-chief. — Quarrels.  — Confidential 
Communications  with  the  King. — Court  Executions  and  Executioners. — Another 
Day  with  the  Queen 310 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

palace,  Uganda — Continued. 

A Visit  to  a distinguished  Statesman.— A Visit  from  the  King.— Royal  Sport.— The 
Queen’s  Present  of  Wives.— The  Court  Beauties  and  their  Reverses.— Judicial 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


Procedure  in  Uganda. — Buffalo-hunting. — A Musical  Party. — My  Medical  Prac- 
tice.— A Koyal  Excursion  on  the  N’yanza. — The  Canoes  of  Uganda. — A Regatta. 
— Rifle  Practice.  — Domestic  Difficulties.  — Interference  of  a Magician. — The 
King’s  Brothers Page  342 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

palace,  Uganda — Continued. 

Reception  of  a victorious  Army  at  Court. — Royal  Sport. — A Review  of  the  Troops. 
— Negotiations  for  the  Opening  of  the  Road  along  the  Nile. — Grant’s  Return. — 
Pillagings. — Court  Marriages. — The  King’s  Brothers. — Divinations  and  Sacri- 
fices.— The  Road  granted  at  last. — The  Preparations  for  continuing  the  Expedi- 
tion.— The  Departure 373 

CHAPTER  XV. 

MARCH  DOWN  THE  NORTHERN  SLOPES  OP  AFRICA. 

Kari. — Tragic  Incident  there. — Renewal  of  Troubles. — Quarrels  with  the  Natives. — 
Reach  the  Nile. — Description  of  the  Scene  there.— Sport. — Church  Estate. — As- 
cend the  River  to  the  Junction  with  the  Lake.— Ripon  Tails. — General  Account 
of  the  Source  of  the  Nile. — Descend  again  to  Urondogani. — The  truculent  Saki- 
bobo 416 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

BAHRELABIAD. 

First  Voyage  on  the  Nile. — The  Starting. — Description  of  the  River  and  the  Coun- 
try.— Meet  a hostile  Vessel. — A naval  Engagement. — Difficulties  and  Dangers. — 
Judicial  Procedure. — Messages  from  the  King  of  Uganda. — His  Efforts  to  get  us 
back. — Desertion. — The  Wanyoro  Troops. — Kamrasi. — Elephant-stalking. — Dia- 
bolical Possessions 435 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

UNTORO. 

Invitation  to  the  Palace  at  last. — Journey  to  it. — Bombay’s  Visit  to  King  Kamrasi. 
— Our  Reputation  as  Cannibals. — Reception  at  Court. — Acting  the  Physician 
again. — Royal  Mendicancy 455 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 
untoro — Continued. 

/The  Ceremonies  of  the  New  Moon. — Kamrasi’s  Rule  and  Discipline. — An  Embassy 
from  Uganda,  and  its  Results. — The  rebellious  Brothers. — An  African  Sorcerer 
and  his  Incantations. — The  Kamraviona  of  Unyoro. — Burial  Customs. — Ethio- 
pian Legends. — Complicated  Diplomacy  for  our  Detention. — Proposal  to  send 
Princes  to  England. — We  get  away 474 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

THE  MARCH  TO  MADI. 

Sail  down  the  Kafu. — The  navigable  Nile. — Fishing  and  Sporting  Population.— 
The  Scenery  on  the  River. — An  inhospitable  Governor. — Karuma  Falls. — Native 
Superstitions.— Thieveries. — Hospitable  Reception  at  Koki  by  Chongi 506 


CONTENTS. 


xii 


CHAPTER  XX. 

MADI. 

Junction  of  the  two  Hemispheres. — The  first  Contact  with  Persons  acquainted  with 
European  Habits.— Interruptions  and  Plots. — The  mysterious  Mahamed. — Native 
Revelries. — The  Plundering  and  Tyranny  of  the  Turks. — The  Rascalities  of  the 
Ivory  Trade. — Peeling  for  the  Nile.— Taken  to  see  a Mark  left  by  a European. — 
Buffalo,  Eland,  and  Rhinoceros  Stalking. — Meet  Baker. — Petherick’s  Arrival  at 
Gondokoro Page  521 

Conclusion 548 


Appendix 


553 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

Portrait  of  Captain  Speke  in  Dress  worn  in  Africa  ( Frontispiece ) 

from  Photograph  by  Southwell  Brothers. 
386.  Portrait  of  Captain  Grant  in  Dress  worn  in  Africa 

from  Photograph  by  Urquhart,  Dingwall. 
34.  Zulu  Kafir,  Delagoa  Bay Grant. 

37.  Banyan  contemplating  his  Account-book Lieut.  Suther. 

38.  Said  Majid,  Sultan  of  Zanzibar .from  Photograph  by  Col.  Playfair. 

43.  Mzaramo,  or  Native  of  Uzakamo Grant. 

44.  Wazaramo,  People  of  Uzaramo do. 

56.  Msagara,  or  Native  of  Usagara do. 

61.  Mkambaku  Hill,  viewed  from  Zungomero  Speke. 

65.  Hill  View  from  Eastern  Mbuiga do. 

70.  Bugu,  Calabash,  or  Gouty-limbed  Trees do. 

73.  Mgogo,  or  Native  of  Ugogo Grant. 

74.  View  of  East  Coast  Bange  from  Makenga  Mkhali Speke. 

76.  Our  Camp  in  Ugogo : Grant. 

79.  New  Antelope — Ugogo from  Specimen,  Wolff. 

83.  Three  Buffalo-charges  in  one  Day — Mgunda  Mkhali 

Zwecker,from  Sketch  by  Speke. 
91.  The  Tembe,  or  Mud  Village,  at  Jiwa  la  Mkoa Speke. 

97.  View  in  Eastern  Unyanyembe do. 

98.  Myamuezi,  or  Native  of  Unyamuezi... , Grant. 

100.  Front  View  of  Musa’s  Tembe  at  Kaze do. 

101.  Wanyamuezi  Ornaments,  etc do. 

103.  Do.  Implements do. 

117.  Sirboko’s  Slaves  carrying  Fuel  and  cutting  Rice 

Zwecker,from  Sketch  by  do. 

129.  Unyamuezi  Harvest Grant. 

132.  Ukulbia’s  Village do. 

137.  Mzinza,  or  Native  of  Uzinza do. 

149.  Grant  Dancing  with  Ukulima do. 

154.  Lumeresi’s  Residence do. 


XIV 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE 

169.  Blacksmith’s  Shop Grant. 

184.  Uthungu  Valley do. 

186.  Our  Camp  in  the  Uthungu  Valley— The  Wasui  bringing  Pro- 
visions for  Sale Zwecker,  from  Sketch  by  do. 

197.  One  of  the  Waiiuma do. 

204.  Our  Camp  outside  the  Palace,  Ear  ague...  Zwecker,  from  Sketch  by  do. 

210.  Musicians — Karague Zwecker,  from  Sketch  by  do. 

211.  View  of  Mount  Mfumbiro,  and  Drainage  System  of  the  I . d x.e 

Montes Speke. 

220.  Nzoe  Antelopes— Little  Windermere,  Karague 

Wolff,  from  Sketch  by  do. 

222.  The  King’s  New-moon  Levee Grant. 

227.  Presenting  my  Hunting  Spoils  to  Rumanika 

Zwecker,  from  Sketches  by  Speke  §'  Grant. 

247.  Waganda  War-Instruments Grant. 

256.  Ferry  on  the  Kitangule  River do. 

260.  Baraza  and  Residence  of  Kamrasi’s  Uncle— Ngambezi do. 

269.  Waganda  Brewing  Pombe do. 

277.  View  of  King  Mtesa’s  Palace  from  my  Hut — Uganda do. 

280.  Mganda,  or  Native  of  Uganda do. 

285.  King  of  Uganda  retiring do. 

297.  Kambari  Fish Speke. 

337.  A Queen  dragged  to  Execution — Uganda Grant. 

360.  View  of  the  Murchison  Creek do. 

362.  Uganda  Boat Speke. 

370.  Captain  Grant  leaving  Karague Grant. 

382.  King  of  Uganda  reviewing  Col.  Congo’s  Regiment 

Zwecker,  from  Sketch  by  Speke. 

388.  King  Mtesa  holding  a Levee Zwecker,  from  Sketch  by  Grant. 

392.  Speke  introduces  Grant  to  the  Queen-dowager  of  Uganda....  do. 

400.  Palace  Guards  at  Dinner — Uganda do.  , 

407.  Waganda  Officers  drinking  Pombe do. 

423.  Goatsucker  (Cosmetornis  Spekii) from  Specimen,  Wolff. 

427.  The  Ripon  Falls — the  Nile  flowing  out  of  Victoria  N’yanza Speke. 

432.  N’samma  Antelope — Uganda Wolff,  from  Sketch  by  do. 

451.  The  Elephants’  Charge Zwecker,  from  Sketch  by  do. 

455.  King  Kamrasi’s  Palace  from  my  Hut — Unyoro Grant. 

482.  Speke’s  Men  killing  a Cow,  with  Magician,  etc.,  looking  on 

Zwecker,  from  Sketch  by  do. 

494.  Kamrasi’s  First  Lesson  in  the  Bible do. 

499.  Kimenya  the  Dwarf do. 

511.  Group  of  Kidi  Men  on  a Visit  to  King  Kamrasi do. 

513.  The  Karuma  Falls — Kidi . do. 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


XV 


PAGE 

517.  Group  of  Gani  Men Grant. 

523.  Turks’  Wives  and  Children do. 

528.  Removing  a Village — Madi do. 

529.  Tying  up  Ivories  for  the  March do. 

532.  Mahamed’s  Party  on  the  March do. 

534.  The  Nile  and  Jbl  Kdktj do. 

541.  Mission-house,  Gondokoro do. 

546.  The  Nile  below  the  Junction  of  the  Asua  River do. 

550.  Speke’s  “ Faithfuls” from  Photograph  by  Royer  of  Cairo. 

552.  Women  of  the  Expedition from  Photograph,  by  do. 


Map  of  Eastern  Equatorial  Africa  ( at  end  of  the  Volume) Speke. 

Map  of  the  Nile  from  its  Source,  according  to  the  ancient  Hindu 
Books,  page  30. 


INTRODUCTION, 


In  the  following  pages  I have  endeavored  to  describe  all  that 
appeared  to  me  most  important  and  interesting  among  the  events 
and  the  scenes  that  dame  under  my  notice  during  my  sojourn  in 
the  interior  of  Africa.  If  my  account  should  not  entirely  harmo- 
nize with  preconceived  notions  as  to  primitive  races,  I can  not 
help  it.  I profess  accurately  to  describe  naked  Africa — Africa 
in  thpse  places  where  it  has  not  received  the  slightest  impulse, 
whether  for  good  or  for  evil,  from  European  civilization.  If  the 
picture  be  a dark  one,  we  should,  when  contemplating  these  sons 
of  Noah,  try  and  carry  our  mind  back  to  that  time  when  our  poor 
elder  brother  Ham  was  cursed  by  his  father,  and  condemned  to 
be  the  slave  of  both  Shem  and  Japheth;  for  as  they  were  then, 
so  they  appear  to  be  now  — a strikingly  existing  proof  of  the 
Holy  Scriptures.  But  one  thing  must  be  remembered:  While 
the  people  of  Europe  and  Asia  were  blessed  by  communion  with 
Hod  through  the  medium  of  His  prophets,  and  obtained  divine 
laws  to  regulate  their  ways  and  keep  them  in  mind  of  Him  who 
made  them,  the  Africans  were  excluded  from  this  dispensation, 
and  consequently  have  no  idea  of  an  overruling  Providence  or  a 
future  state ; they  therefore  trust  to  luck  and  to  charms,  and  think 
only  of  self-preservation  in  this  world.  Whatever,  then,  may  be 
said  against  them  for  being  too  avaricious  or  too  destitute  of  fel- 
low-feeling, should  rather  reflect  on  ourselves,  who  have  been  so 
much  better  favored,  yet  have  neglected  to  teach  them,  than  on 
those  who,  while  they  are  sinning,  know  not  what  they  are  doing. 
— say  a negro  is  incapable  of  instruction  is  a mere  absurdity, 
for  those  few  boys  who  have  been  educated  in  our  schools  have 
proved  themselves  even  quicker  than  our  own  at  learning;  while, 
among  themselves,  the  deepness  of  their  cunning  and  their  power 
of  repartee  are  quite  surprising,  and  are  especially  shown  in  their 
proficiency  for  telling  lies-most-appropriatelv  im-preierence  to 
truth,  and  with  an  off-handed  manner  that  makes  them  most 
amusing. 


B 


INTRODUCTION. 


xviii 

With  these  remarks,  I now  give,  as  an  appropriate  introduction 
to  mj  narrative,  (1.)  An  account  of  the  general  geographical  fea- 
tures of  the  countries  we  are  about  to  travel  in,  leaving  the  details 
to  be  treated  under  each  as  we  successively  pass  through  them ; 
(2.)  A general  view  of  the  atmospheric  agents  which  wear  down 
and  so  continually  help  to  reduce  the  continent,  yet  at  the  same 
time  assist  to  clothe  it  with  vegetation;  (3.)  A general  view  of 
the  Flora;  and,  lastly,  that  which  consumes  it,  (4.)  Its  Fauna; 
ending  with  a few  special  remarks  on  the  Wangiiana,  or  men 
freed  from  slavery. 

GEOGRAPHY. 

The  continent  of  Africa  is  something  like  a dish  turned  upside 
down,  having  a high  and  flat  central  plateau,  with  a higher  rim 
of  hills  surrounding  it ; from  below  which,  exterially,  it  suddenly 
slopes  down  to  the  flat  strip  of  land  bordering  on  the  sea.  A 
dish,  however,  is  generally  uniform  in  shape — Africa  is  not.  For 
instance,  we  find  in  its  centre  a high  group  of  hills  surrounding 
the  head  of  the  Tanganyika  Lake,  composed  chiefly  of  argilla- 
ceous sandstones,  which  I suppose  to  be  the  Lunse  Montes  of 
Ptolemy,  or  the  Soma  Giri  of  the  ancient  Hindus.  Farther,  in- 
stead of  a rim  at  the  northern  end,  the  country  shelves  down  from 
the  equator  to  the  Mediterranean  Sea ; and  on  the  general  surface 
of  the  interior  plateau  there  are  basins  full  of  water  (lakes),  from 
which,  when  rains  overflow  them,  rivers  are  formed,  that,  cutting 
through  the  flanking  rim  of  hills,  find  their  way  to  the  sea. 

ATMOSPHERIC  AGENTS. 

On  the  east  coast,  near  Zanzibar,  we  find  the  rains  following 
the  track  of  the  sun,  and  lasting  not  more  than  forty  days  on  any 
part  that  the  sun  crosses,  while  the  winds  blow  from  southwest 
or  northeast  toward  the  regions  heated  by  its  vertical  position. 
But  in  the  centre  of  the  continent,  within  5°  of  the  equator,  we 
find  the  rains  much  more  lasting.  For  instance,  at  5°  south  lati- 
tude, for  the  whole  six  months  that  the  sun  is  in  the  south,  rain 
continues  to  fall,  and  I have  heard  that  the  same  takes  place  at 
5°  north;  while  on  the  equator,  or  rather  a trifle  to  northward 
of  it,  it  rains  more  or  less  the  whole  year  round,  but  most  at  the 
equinoxes,  as  shown  in  the  table  on  the  following  page.  The 
winds,  though  somewhat  less  steady,  are  still  very  determinable. 
With  an  easterly  tending,  they  deflect  north  and  south,  following 


INTRODUCTION. 


XIX 


The  Number  of  Days  on  which  Rain  fell  (more  or  less)  during  the  March  of 
the  East  African  Expedition  from  Zanzibar  to  Gondokoro. 


1SG0. 

Days  on 
which  rain 
fell. 

1861. 

Days  on 
which  rain 
fell. 

18G2. 

Days  on 
which  rain 
fell. 

January 

19 

January 

14 

February 

21 

February* 

12 

March 

17 

March 

21 

April 

17 

•April 

27 

May 

3 

May 

26 

June 

0 

June 

20 

July 

1 

July 

22 

August 

1 

August 

20 

September 

9 

September 

18 

October 

2 

October 

11 

October 

27 

November 

0 

November 

17 

November 

20 

December 

20 

December 

16 

December 

6 

* The  equator  was  crossed  on  the  8th  of  February,  1S62. 


the  sun.  In  the  dryer  season  they  blow  so  cold  that  the  sun’s 
heat  is  not  distressing ; and  in  consequence  of  this,  and  the  aver- 
age altitude  of  the  plateau,  which  is  3000  feet,  the  general  tem- 
perature of  the  atmosphere  is  very  pleasant,  as  I found  from  ex- 
perience ; for  I walked  every  inch  of  the  journey  dressed  in  thick 
woolen  clothes,  and  slept  every  night  between  blankets.* 

"FLORA. 

From  what  has  been  said  regarding  the  condition  of  the  atmos- 
phere, it  may  readily  be  imagined  that  Africa,  in  those  parts, 
after  all,  is  not  so  bad  as  people  supposed  it  was ; for,  when  so 
much  moisture  falls  under  a vertical  sun,  all  vegetable  life  must 
grow  up  almost  spontaneously.  It  does  so  on  the  equator  in  the 
most  profuse  manner;  but  down  at  5°  south,  where  there  are  six 
months’  drought,  the  case  is  somewhat  different,  and  the  people 
would  be  subject  to  famines  if  they  did  not  take  advantage  of 
their  rainy  season  to  lay  in  sufficient  stores  for  the  fine : and  here 
we  touch  on  the  misfortune  of  the  country ; for  the  negro_j§_too 
^la^y-tcrdo-so  effectively,  owing  chiefly,  as  we  shall  see  presently, 
to  want  of  a strong  protecting  government.  One  substantial  fact 
has  been  establis1^,Awiu'gT3AAfTIaving  crossed  over  ten  degrees 
of  latitude  in  the  centre  of  the  continent,  or  from  5°  south  to  5° 
north  latitude,  which  is  this : There  exists  a regular  gradation  of 
fertility,  surprisingly  rich  on  the  equator,  but  decreasing  syste- 
matically from  it;  and  the  reason  why  this  great  fertile  zone  is 
confined  to  the  equatorial  regions  is  the  same  as  that  which  has 

* See  climate  for  one  year  bordering  on  the  Victoria  N’yanza,  deduced  from  the 
observations  of  Captain  Grant  by  Francis  Galton,  E.R.S.,  in  the  Appendix. 


XX 


INTRODUCTION. 


constituted  it  the  great  focus  of  water  or  lake  supply,  whence 
issue  the  principal  rivers  of  Africa.  On  the  equator  lie  the  rain- 
bearing influences  of  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon.  The  equato- 
rial line  is,  in  fact,  the  centre  of  atmospheric  motion* 

FAUNA. 

In  treating  of  this  branch  of  natural  history,  we  will  first  take 
man — the  true  curly-head,  flab-nosed,  pouch-mouthed  negro— not 
the  Wahuma-f  They  are  well  distributed  all  over  these  lati- 
tudes, but  are  not  found  any  where  in  dense  communities.  Their 
system  of  government  is  mostly  of  the  patriarchal  character. 
Some  are  pastorals,  but  most  are  agriculturists ; and  this  differ- 
ence, I believe,  originates  solely  from  want  of  a stable  govern- 
ment, to  enable  them  to  reap  what  they  produce ; for  where  the 
negro  can  save  his  cattle,  which  is  his  wealth,  by  eating  grain,  he 
will  do  it.  In  the  same  way,  as  all  animals,  whether  wild  or 
tame,  require  a guide  to  lead  their  flocks,  so  do  the  negroes  find 
it  necessary  to  have  chiefs  over  their  villages  and  little  commu- 
nities, who  are  their  referees  on  all  domestic  or  political  questions. 
They  have  both  their  district  and  their  village  chiefs,  but,  in  the 
countries  we  are  about  to  travel  over,  no  kings  such  as  we  shall 
find  that  the  Wahuma  have.  The  district  chief  is  absolute, 
though  guided  in  great  measure  by  his  “ graybeards,”  who  con- 
stantly attend  his  residence,  and  talk  over  their  affairs  of  state. 
These  commonly  concern  petty  internal  matters,  for  they  are  too 
selfish  and  too  narrow-minded  to  care  for  any  thing  but  their 
own  private  concerns.  The  graybeards  circulate  the  orders  of 
the  chief  among  the  village  chiefs,  who  are  fined  when  they  do 
not  comply  with  them ; and  hence  all  orders  are  pretty  well 
obeyed. 

One  thing  only  tends  to  disorganize  thejcountry,  and  that  is 
1 warj  caused,  in  the  first  instance,  by  tpolygamy^producing  a fam- 
ily of  half-brothers,  who,  all  aspiring  t'o~strcceeTtheir  father,  fight 
continually  with  one  another,  and  make  their  chief  aim  slaves 
and  cattle ; while,  in  the  second  instance,  slavery  keeps  them  ever 
fighting  and  reducing  their  numbers.  The  government  revenues 
are  levied,  on  a very  small  scale,  exclusively  for  the  benefit  of 
the  chief  and  his  graybeards.  For  instance,  as  a sort  of  land-tax, 
the  chief  has  a right  to  drink  free  from  the  village  brews  of 

* Captain  Grant’s  collection  of  the  flora  of  Africa  will  be  found  in  the  Appendix. 

f The  Wahfima  are  treated  of  in  Chapter  IX. 


INTRODUCTION. 


XN1 


pombe  (a  kind  of  beer  made  by  fermentation),  which  are  made  in 
turn  by  all  tbe  villagers  successively.  In  case  of  an  elephant  be- 
ina:  killed,  he  also  takes  a share  of  the  meat,  and  claims  one  of  its 
tusks  as  his  right ; farther,  all  leopard,  lion,  or  zebra  skins  are  his 
by  right.  On  merchandise  brought  into  the  country  by  traders, 
he  has  a general  right  to  make  any  exactions  he  thinks  he  has 
the  power  of  enforcing,  without  any  regard  to  justice  or  a regu- 
lated tariff.  This  right  is  called  Kongo,  in  the  plural  Mahongo. 
Another  source  of  revenue  is  in  the  effects  of  all  people  con- 
demned for  sorcery,  who  are  either  burnt,  or  speared  and  cast  into 
the  jungles,  and  their  property  seized  by  the  gray  beards  for  their 
chief. 

As  to  punishments,  all  irreclaimable  thieves  or  murderers  are 
killed  and  disposed  of  in  the  same  manner  as  these  sorcerers, 
while  on  minor  thieves  a penalty  equivalent  to  the  extent  of  the 
depredation  is  levied.  Illicit  intercourse  being  treated  as  petty 
larceny,  a value  is  fixed  according  to  the  value  of  the  woman — 
for  it  must  be  remembered  airwomen  are  property.  Indeed, 
marriages  are  considered  a very  profitable  spSUnfetion,  the  girl’s 
hand  being  in  the  father’s  gift,  who  marries  her  to  any  one  who 
will  pay  her  price.  This  arrangement,  however,  is  not  considered 
a simple  matter  of  buying  and  selling,  but  delights  in  the  high- 
sounding  title  of  “ dowry. ^ , Slaves,  cows,  goats,  fowls,  brass-  wire, 
or  beads,  are  the  Aisual  things  given  for  this  species  of  dowry. 
The  marriage-knot,  however,  is  never  irretrievably  tied;  for  if  the 
wife  finds  a defect  in  her  husband,  she  can  return  to  her  father 
by  refunding  the  dowry;  while  the  husband,  if  he  objects  to  his 
wife,  can  claim  half  price  on  sending  her  home  again,  which  is 
considered  fair,  because  as  a second-hand  article  her  future  value 
would  be  diminished  by  half.  By  this  system,  it  must  be  ob- 
served, polygamy  is  a source  of  wealth,  since  a man’s  means  are 
measured  by  the  number  of  his  progeny ; but  it  has  other  advant- 
ages besides  the  dowry,  for  the  women  work  more  than  the  men 
do,  both  in  and  out  of  doors ; and,  in  addition  to  the  females,  the 
sons  work  for  the  household  until  they  marry,  and  in  after  life 
take  care  of  their  parents  in  the  same  way  as  in  the  first  instance 
the  parents  took  care  of  them. 

Twins  are  usually  hailed  with  delight,  because  they  swell  the 
power  of  the  family,  though  in  some  instances  they  are  put  to 
death.  Albinos  are  valued,  though  their  color  is  not  admired. 
If  death  occurs  in  a natural  manner,  the  body  is  usually  either 


xxu 


INTRODUCTION. 


buried  in  the  village  or  outside.  A large  portion  of  the  negro 
races  affect  nudity,  despising  clothing  as  effeminate;  but  these 
are  chiefly  the  more  boisterous,  roving  pastorals,  who  are  too  lazy 
either  to  grow  cotton  or  strip  the  trees  of  their  bark.  Their 
young  women  go  naked ; but  the  mothers  suspend  a little  tail 
both  before  and  behind.  As  the  hair  of  the  negro  will  not  grow 
long,  a barber  might  be  dispensed  with,  were  it  not  that  they  de- 
light in  odd  fashions,  and  are  therefore  continually  either  shaving 
it  off  altogether,  or  else  fashioning  it  after  the  most  whimsical  de- 
signs. No  people  in  the  world  4ire_so  proud  and  headstrong  as 
the  negroes,  whether  they  be  pastoral  or  agriculturists.  With 
them,  as  with  the  rest  of  the  world,  “familiarity  breeds  con- 
tempt;” hospitality  lives  only  one  day;  for,  though  proud  of  a 
rich  or  white  visitor — and  they  implore  him  to  stop,  that  they 
may  keep  feeding  their  eyes  on  his  curiosities — they  seldom  give 
more  than  a cow  or  a goat,  though  professing  to  supply  a whole 
camp  with  provisions. 

Taking  the  negroes  as  a whole,  one  does  not  find  very  marked 
or  much  difference  in  them.  Each  tribe  has  its  characteristics,  it 
is  true.  For  instance,  one  cuts  his  teeth  or  tattoos  his  face  in  a 
different  manner  from  the  others ; but,  by  the  constant  intermar- 
riage with  slaves,  much  of  this  effect  is  lost,  and  it  is  farther  lost 
sight  of  owing  to  the  prevalence  of  migrations  caused  by  wars 
and  the  division  of  governments.  As  with  the  tribal  marks,  so 
with  their  weapons ; those  most  commonly  in  use  are  the  spear, 
assegai,  shield,  bow  and  arrow.  It  is  true,  some  affect  one,  some 
the  other;  but  in  no  way  do  we  see  that  the  courage  of  tribes  can 
be  determined  by  the  use  of  any  particular  weapon ; for  the  brav- 
est use  the  arrow,  which  is  the  more  dreaded,  while  the  weakest 
confine  themselves  to  the  spear.  Lines  of  traffic  are  the  worst 
tracks  (there  are  no  roads  in  the  districts  here  referred  to)  for  a 
traveler  to  go  upon,  not  only  because  the  hospitality  of  the  peo- 
ple has  been  damped  by  frequent  communication  with  travelers, 
but,  by  intercourse  with  the  semi-civilized  merchant,  their  natural 
honor  and  honesty  are  corrupted,  their  cupidity  is  increased,  and 
the  show  of  fire-arms  ceases  to  frighten  them. 

Of  paramount  consideration  is  the  power  held  by  the  magician 
(Mganga),  who  rules  the  minds  of  the  kings  as  did  the  old  popes 
of  Europe.  They,  indeed,  are  a curse  to  the  traveler;  for  if  it 
suits  their  inclinations  to  keep  him  out  of  the  country;  they  have 
merely  to  prognosticate  all  sorts  of  calamities — as  droughts,  fam- 


INTRODUCTION. 


xxiii 

ines,  or  wars — in  the  event  of  his  setting  eyes  on  the  soil,  and  the 
chiefs,  people,  and  all,  would  believe  them ; for,  as  may  be  im- 
agined, with  men  unenlightened,  supernatural  and  imaginary  pre- 
dictions work  with  more  force  than  substantial  reasons.  Their 
implement  of  divination,  simple  as  it  may  appear,  is  a cow’s  or 
antelope’s  horn  (Uganga),  which  they  stuff  with  magic  powder, 
also  called  Uganga.  Stuck  into  the  ground  in  front  of  the  vil- 
lage, it  is  supposed  to  have  sufficient  power  to  ward  off  the  at- 
tacks of  an  enemy. 

By  simply  holding  it  in  the  hand,  the  magician  pretends  he 
can  discover  any  thing  that  has  been  stolen  or  lost;  and  instances 
have  been  told  of  its  dragging  four  men  after  it  with  irresistible 
impetus  up  to  a thief,  when  it  belabored  the  culprit  and  drove 
him  out  of  his  senses.  So  imbued  are  the  natives’  minds  with 
belief  in  the  power  of  charms,  that  they  pay  the  magician  for 
sticks,  stones,  or  mud,  which  he  has  doctored  for  them.  They  be- 
lieve certain  flowers  held  in  the  hand  will  conduct  them  to  any 
thing  lost ; as  also  that  the  voice  of  certain  wild  animals,  birds, 
or  beasts,  will  insure  them  good  luck,  or  warn  them  of  danger. 
With  the  utmost  complacency,  our  sable  brother  builds  a dwarf 
hut  in  his  fields,  and  places  some  grain  on  it  to  propitiate  the  evil 
spirit,  and  suffer  him  to  reap  the  fruits  of  his  labor,  and  this,  too, 
they  call  their  Uganga,  or  church. 

These  are  a few  of  the  more  innocent  alternatives  the  poor  ne- 
groes resort  to  in  place  of  a “Savior.”  They  have  also  many 
other  and  more  horrible  devices.  For  instance,  in  times  of  tribu- 
lation, the  magician,  if  he  ascertains  a war  is  projected  by  inspect- 
ing the  blood  and  bones  of  a fowl  which  he  has  flayed  for  that 
purpose,  flays  a young  child,  and,  having  laid  it  lengthwise  on  a 
path,  directs  all  the  warriors,  on  proceeding  to  battle,  to  step  over 
his  sacrifice  and  insure  themselves  victory.  Another  of  these 
extra  barbarous  devices  takes  place  when  a chief  wishes  to  make 
war  on  his  neighbor,  by  his  calling  in  a magician  to  discover  a 
propitious  time  for  commencing.  The  doctor  places  a large 
earthen  vessel,  half  full  of  water,  over  a fire,  and  over  its  mouth 
a grating  of  sticks,  whereon  he  lays  a small  child  and  a fowl  side 
by  side,  and  covers  them  over  with  a second  large  earthen  vessel, 
just  like  the  first,  only  inverted,  to  keep  the  steam  in,  when  he 
sets  fire  below,  cooks  for  a certain  period  of  time,  and  then  looks 
to  see  if  his  victims  are  still  living  or  dead — when,  should  they  be 
dead,  the  war  must  be  deferred,  but  otherwise  commenced  at  once. 


XXIV 


INTKODUCTION. 


These  extremes,  however,  are  not  often  resorted  to,  for  the  na- 
tives are  usually  content  with  simpler  means,  such  as  flaying  a 
goat,  instead  of  a child,  to  be  walked  over ; while,  to  prevent  any 
evil  approaching  their  dwellings,  a squashed  frog,  or  any  other 
such  absurdity,  when  placed  on  the  track,  is  considered  a spe- 
cific. 

(How  the  negro  has  lived  so  many  ages  without  advancing 
seems  marvelous,  when  all  the  countries  surrounding  Africa  are 
so  forward  in  comparison;  and,  judging  from  the  progressive 
state  of  the  world,  one  is  led  to  suppose  that  the  African  must 
soon  either  step  out  from  his  darkness,  or  be  superseded  by  a be- 
ing superior  to  himself.  Could  a government  be  formed  for  them 
like  ours  in  India,  they  would  be  saved ; but  without  it,  I fear 
there  is  very  little  chance ; for  at  present  the  African  neither  can 
help  himself  nor  will  he  be  helped  by  others,  because  his  country 
is  in  such  a constant  state  of  turmoil  he  has  too  much  anxiety  on 
hand  looking  out  for  his  food  to  think  of  any  thing  else.  As  his 
fathers  ever  did,  so  does  he.  He  works  his  wife,  sells  his  chil- 
dren, enslaves  all  he  can  lay  hands  upon,  and,  unless  when  fight- 
ing for  the  property  of  others,  contents  himself  with  drinking, 
singing,  and  dancing  like  a baboon,  to  drive  dull  care  away.  A 
few  only  make  cotton  cloth,  or  work  in  wood,  iron,  copper,  or  salt; 
their  rule  being  to  do  as  little  as  possible,  and  to  qtore  up  nothing 
beyond  the  necessities  of  the  next  season,  lest  tEeiF  chiefs  or 
neighbors  should  covet  and  take  it  from  them. 

Slavery,  I may  add,  is  one  great  cause  of  laziness,  for  the  ma,s- 
,ters-becom.e  too  proud  to  work,  lest  they  should  be  thought  slaves 
themselves.  HT  consequence  of  this,  the  women  look  after  the 
household  work,  such  as  brewing,  cooking,  grinding  corn,  making 
pottery  and  baskets,  and  taking  care  of  the  house  and  the  children, 
besides  helping  the  slaves  while  cultivating,  or  even  tending  the 
cattle  sometimes. 

How,  descending  to  the  inferior  order  of  creation,  I shall  com- 
mence with  the  domestic  animals  first,  to  show  what  the  traveler 
may  expect  to  find  for  his  usual  support.  Cows,  after  leaving  the 
low  lands  near  the  coast,  are  found  to  be  plentiful  every  where, 
and  to  produce  milk  in  small  quantities,  from  which  butter  is 
made.  Goats  are  common  all  over  Africa ; but  sheep  are  not  so 
plentiful,  nor  do  they  show  such  good  breeding,  being  generally 
lanky,  with  long  fat  tails.  Fowls,  much  like  those  in  India,  are 
abundant  every  where.  A few  Muscovy  ducks  are  imported, 


INTRODUCTION'. 


XXV 


also  pigeons  and  cats.  Dogs,  like  the  Indian  pariah,  are  very 
plentiful,  only  much  smaller ; and  a few  donkeys  are  found  in 
certain  localities.  Now,  considering  this  goodly  supply  of  meat, 
while  all  tropical  plants  will  grow  just  as  well  in  central  equato- 
rial Africa  as  they  do  in  India,  it  surprises  the  traveler  there 
should  be  any  famines ; yet  such  is  too  often  the  case ; and  the 
negro,  with  these  bounties  within  his  reach,  is  sometimes  found 
eating  dogs,  cats,  rats,  porcupines,  snakes,  lizards,  tortoises,  locusts, 
and  white  ants,  or  is  forced  to  seek  the  seeds  of  wild  grasses,  or 
to  pluck  wild  herbs,  fruits,  and  roots,  while  at  the  proper  seasons 
they  hunt  the  wild  elephant,  buffalo,  giraffe,  zebra,  pigs,  and  ante- 
lopes, or,  going  out  with  their  arrows,  have  battues  against  the 
Guinea-fowls  and  small  birds. 

The  frequency  with  which  collections  of  villages  are  found  all 
over  the  countries  we  are  alluding  to  leaves  but  very  little  scope 
for  the  runs  of  wild  animals,  which  are  found  only  in  dense 
jungles,  open  forests,  or  prairies,  generally  speaking,  where  hills 
can  protect  them,  and  near  rivers  whose  marshes'  produce  a thick 
growth  of  vegetation  to  conceal  them  from  their  most  dreaded 
enemy  — man.  The  prowling,  restless  elephant,  for  instance, 
though  rarely  seen,  leaves  indications  of  his  nocturnal  excursions 
in  every  wilderness  by  wantonly  knocking  down  the  forest-trees. 
The  morose  rhinoceros,  though  less  numerous,  are  found  in  every 
thick  jungle.  So  is  the  savage  buffalo,  especially  delighting  in 
dark  places,  where  he  can  wallow  in  the  mud  and  slake  his  thirst 
without  much  trouble ; and  here  also  we  find  the  wild  pig. 

The  gruff  hippopotamus  is  as  wide-spread  as  any,  being  found 
wherever  there  is  water  to  float  him ; while  the  shy  giraffe  and 
zebra  affect  all  open  forests  and  plains  where  the  grass  is  not  too 
long ; and  antelopes,  of  great  variety  in  species  and  habits,  are 
found  wherever  man  will  let  them  alone  and  they  can  find  water. 
The  lion  is,  however,  rarely  heard  — much  more  seldom  seen. 
Hyenas  are  numerous,  and  thievishly  inclined.  Leopards,  less 
common,  are  the  terror  of  the  villagers.  Foxes  are  not  numer- 
ous, but  frighten  the  black  traveler  by  their  ill-omened  bark. 
Hares,  about  half  the  size  of  English  ones — there  are  no  rabbits 
— are  widely  spread,  but  not  numerous;  porcupines  the  same. 
Wild-cats,  and  animals  of  the  ferret  kind,  destroy  game.  Monk- 
eys of  various  kinds,  and  squirrels,  harbor  in  the  trees,  but  are 
rarely  seen.  Tortoises  and  snakes,  in  great  variety,  crawl  over 
the  ground,  mostly  after  the  rains.  Rats  and  lizards — there  are 


XXVI 


INTRODUCTION. 


but  few  mice — are  very  abundant,  and  feed  both  in  the  fields  and 
on  the  stores  of  the  men. 

The  wily  ostrich,  bustard,  and  florikan  affect  all  open  places. 
The  Guinea-fowl  is  the  most  numerous  of  all  game-birds.  Par- 
tridges come  next,  but  do  not  afford  good  sport ; and  quails  are 
rare.  Ducks  and  snipe  appear  to  love  Africa  less  than  any  other 
country ; and  geese  and  storks  are  only  found  where  water  most 
abounds.  Vultures  are  uncommon;  hawks  and  crows  much 
abound,  as  in  all  other  countries ; but  little  birds,  of  every  color 
and  note,  are  discoverable  in  great  quantities  near  water  and  by 
the  villages.  Huge  snails  and  small  ones,  as  well  as  fresh-water 
shells,  are  very  abundant,  though  the  conchologist  would  find  but 
little  variety  to  repay  his  labors;  and  insects,  though  innumer- 
able, are  best  sought  for  after  the  rains  have  set  in.* 

THE  WA-N-GUANA,  OR  FREED  MEN. 

The  Wa-n -guana,  as  their  name  implies,  are  men  freed  from 
slavery;  and  as  it  is  to  these  singular  negroes  acting  as  hired 
servants  that  I have  been  chiefly  indebted  for  opening  this  large 
section  of  Africa,  a few  general  remarks  on  their  character  can 
not  be  out  of  place  here. 

Of  course,  having  been  born  in  Africa,  and  associated  in  child- 
hood with  the  untainted  negroes,  they  retain  all  the  superstitious 
notions  of  the  true  aborigines,  though  somewhat  modified,  and 
even  corrupted,  by  that  acquaintance  with  the  outer  world  which 
sharpens  their  wits. 

Most  of  these  men  were  doubtless  caught  in  wars,  as  may  be 
seen  every  day  in  Africa,  made  slaves  of,  and  sold  to  the  Arabs 
for  a few  yards  of  common  cloth,  brass  wire,  or  beads.  They 
would  then  be  taken  to  the  Zanzibar  market,  resold  like  horses 
to  the  highest  bidder,  and  then  kept  in  bondage  by  their  new 
masters,  more  like  children  of  his  family  than  any  thing  else.  In 
this  new  position  they  were  circumcised  to  make  Mussulmans  of 
them,  that  their  hands  might  be  “clean”  to  slaughter  their  mas- 
ter’s cattle,  and  extend  his  creed ; for  the  Arabs  believe  the  day 
must  come  when  the  tenets  of  Mohammed  will  be  accepted  by  all 
men. 

The  slave  in  this  new  position  finds  himself  much  better  off 
than  he  ever  was  in  his  life  before,  with  this  exception,  that  as  a 

* The  list  of  my  fauna  collection  will  be  found  in  an  early  number  of  the  “Pro- 
ceedings of  the  Zoological  Society  of  London.” 


INTRODUCTION. 


XXV 11 


slave  he  feels  himseffimucffi-deg^-aded  iu  the  social  scale  of  society, 
and  his  family  ties  are  all  cut  off  from  him — probably  his  rela- 
tions have  all  been  killed  in  the  war  in  which  he  was  captured. 
Still,  after  the  first  qualms  have  worn  off,  we  find  him  much  at- 
tached to  his  master,  who  feeds  him  and  finds  him  in  clothes  in 
return  for  the  menial  services  which  he  performs.  In  a few  years 
after  capture,  or  when  confidence  has  been  gained  by  the  attach- 
ment shown  by  the  slave,  if  the  master  is  a trader  in  ivory,  he 
will  intrust  him  with  the  charge  of  his  stores,  and  send  him  all 
over  the  interior  of  the  continent  to  purchase  for  him  both  slaves 
and  ivory ; but  should  the  master  die,  according  to  the  Moham- 
medan creed  the  slaves  ought  to  be  freed.  In  Arabia  this  would 
be  the  case,  but  at  Zanzibar  it  more  generally  happens  that  the 
slave  is  willed  to  his  successor. 

The  whole  system  of  slaveholding  by  the  Arabs  in  Africa,  or 
rather  on  the  coast  or  at  Zanzibar,  is  exceedingly  strange;  for  the 
slaves., .both  in  individual  physical  strength  and  in  numbers,  are 
so  superior  to  the  Arab  foreigners,  that  if  they  chose  to  rebel, 
they  might  send  the  Arabs  flying  out  of  the  land.  It  happens, 
however^  that  they  are  spell-bound,  not  knowing  their  strength 
any  more  than  domestic  animals,  and  they  even  seem  to  consider 
' that  they  would  be  dishonest  if  they  ran  away  after  being  pur- 
chased, and  so  brought  pecuniary  loss  on  their  owners. 

There  are  many  positions  into  which  the  slave  may  get  by  the 
course  of  events,  and  I shall  give  here,  as  a specimen,  the  ordinary 
case  of  one  who  has  been  freed  by  the  death  of  his  master,  that 
master  having  been  a trader  in  ivory  and  slaves  in  the  interior. 
In  such  a case,  the  slave  so  freed  in  all  probability  would  com- 
mence life  afresh  by  taking  service  as  a porter  with  other  mer- 
chants, and  in  the  end  would  raise  sufficient  capital  to  commence 
trading  himself — first  in  slaves,  because  they  are  the  most  easily 
got,  and  then  in  ivory.  All  his  accumulations  would  then  go  to 
the  Zanzibar  market,  or  else  to  slavers  looking  out  off  the  coast. 
Slavery  begets  slavery.  To  catch  slaves  is  the  first  thought  of 
every  chief  in  the  interior;  hence  fights  and  slavery  impoverish 
the  land,  and  that  is  the  reason  both  why  Africa  does  not  improve, 
and  why  we  find  men  of  all  tribes  and  tongues  on  the  coast.  The 
ethnologist  need  only  go  to  Zanzibar  to  become  acquainted  with 
all  the  different  tribes  to  the  centre  of  the  continent  on  that  side, 
or  to  Congo  to  find  the  other  half  south  of  the  equator  there. 

Some  few  freed  slaves  take  service  in  vessels,  of  which  they  are 


INTRODUCTION. 


xxviii 

especially  fond,  but  most  return  to  Africa  to  trade  in  slaves  and 
ivory.  All  slaves  learn  the  coast  language,  called  at  Zanzibar 
Kisiiahili;  and  therefore  the  traveler,  if  judicious  in  his  selections, 
could  find  there  interpreters  to  carry  him  throughout  the  eastern 
half  of  South  Africa.  To  the  north  of  the  equator  the  system  of 
language  entirely  changes. 

Laziness  is  inherent  in  these  men,  for  which  reason,  although 
extremely  powerful,  they  will  not  work  unless  compelled  toAto 
so.  Having  no  God,  in  the  Christian  sense  of  the  term,  to  fear  or 
worship,  they  have  no  love  for.  truth,  honor,  or  honesty.  Con- 
trolled by  no  government,  nor  yet  by  home  ties,  they  have  no 
reason  to  think  of  or  look  to  the  future.  Any  venture  attracts 
them  when  hard-up  for  food ; and  the  more  roving  it  is,  the  better 
they  like  it.  The  life  of  the  sailor  is  most  particularly  attractive 
to  the  freed  slave ; for  he  thinks,  in  his  conceit,  that  he  is  on  an 
equality  with  all  men  when  once  on  the  muster-rolls,  and  then 
he  calls  all  his  fellow-Africans  “ savages.”  Still,  the  African’s 
peculiarity  sticks  to  him ; he  has  gained  no  permanent  good. 
The  association  of  white  men  and  the  glitter  of  money  merely 
dazzle  him.  He  apes  like  a monkey  the  jolly  Jack  Tar,  and 
spends  his  wages  accordingly.  If  chance  brings  him  back  again 
to  Zanzibar,  he  calls  his  old  Arab  master  his  father,  and  goes  into 
slavery  with  as  much  zest  as  ever. 

I have  spoken  of  these  freed  men  as  if  they  had  no  religion. 
This  is  practically  true,  though  theoretically  not  so;  for  the 
Arabs,  on  circumcising  them,  teach  them  to  repeat  the  words 
Allah  and  Mohammed,  and  perhaps  a few  others ; but  not  one  in 
ten  knows  what  a soul  means,  nor  do  they  expect  to  meet  with 
either  reward  or  punishment  in  the  next  world,  though  they  are 
taught  to  regard  animals  as  clean  and  unclean,  and  some  go 
through  the  form  of  a pilgrimage  to  Mecca.  Indeed,  the  whole 
of  their  spiritual  education  goes  into  oaths  and  ejaculations,  Allah 
and  Mohammed  being  as  common  in  their  mouths  as  damn  and 
blast  are  with  our  soldiers  and  sailors.  The  long  and  short  of 
this  story  is,  that  the  freed  men  generally  turn  out  a loose,  roving, 
reckless  set  of  beings,  quick-witted  as  the  Yankee,  from  the  simple 
fact  that  they  imagine  all  political  matters  affect  them,  and  there- 
fore they  must  have  a word  in  every  debate.  Nevertheless,  they 
are  seldom  wise ; and  lying  being  more  familiar  to  their  constitu- 
tion than  truth-saying,  they  are  forever  concocting  dodges  with 
the  view,  which  they  glory  in,  of  successfully  cheating  people. 


INTRODUCTION. 


XXIX 


Sometimes  they  will  show  great  kindness,  even  bravery  amount- 
ing to  heroism,  and  proportionate  affection  ; at  another  time,  with- 
out any  cause,  they  will  desert  and  be  treacherous  to  their  sworn 
friends  in  the  most  dastardly  manner.  Whatever  the  freak  of 
the  moment  is,  that  they  adopt  in  the  most  thoughtless  manner, 
even  though  they  may  have  calculated  on  advantages  beforehand 
in  the  opposite  direction.  In  fact,  no  one  can  rely  upon  them 
even  for  a moment.  Dog  wit,  or  any  silly  remarks,  will  set  them 
giggling.  Any  toy  will  amuse  them.  Highly  conceited  of  their 
personal  appearance,  they  are  forever  cutting  their  hair  in  differ- 
ent fashions  to  surprise  a friend;  or  if  a rag  be  thrown  away, 
they  will  all  in  turn  fight  for  it,  to  bind  on  their  heads,  then  on 
their  loins  or  spears,  peacocking  about  with  it  before  their  admir- 
ing comrades.  Even  strange  feathers  or  skins  are  treated  by 
them  in  the  same  way. 

Should  one  happen  to  have  any  thing  specially  to  communicate 
to  his  master  in  camp,  he  will  enter  giggling,  sidle  up  to  the  pole 
of  a hut,  commence  scratching  his  back  with  it,  then  stretch  and 
yawn,  and  gradually,  in  bursts  of  loud  laughter,  slip  down  to  the 
ground  on  his  stern,  when  he  drums  with  his  hands  on  the  top  of 
a box  until  summoned  to  know  what  he  has  at  heart,  when  he 
delivers  himself  in  a peculiar  manner,  laughs  and  yawns  again, 
and,  saying  it  is  time  to  go,  walks  off  in  the  same  way  as  he  came. 
At  other  times,  when  he  is  called,  he  will  come  sucking  away  at 
the  spout  of  a tea-pot,  or  scratching  his  naked  arm-pits  with  a 
table-knife,  or,  perhaps,  polishing  the  plates  for  dinner  with  his 
dirty  loin-cloth.  If  sent  to  market  to  purchase  a fowl,  he  comes 
back  with  a cock  tied  by  the  legs  to  the  end  of  a stick,  swinging 
and  squalling  in  the  most  piteous  rnauner.  Then,  arrived  at  the 
cook-shop,  he  throws  the  bird  down  on  the  ground,  holds  its  head 
between  his  toes,  plucks  the  feathers  to  bare  its  throat,  and  then, 
raising  a prayer,  cuts  its  head  off. 

But  enough  of  the  freed  man  in  camp ; on  the  march  he  is  no 
better.  If  you  give  him  a gun  and  some  ammunition  to  protect 
him  in  case  of  emergencies,  he  will  promise  to  save  it,  but  forth- 
with expends  it  by  firing  it  off  in  the  air,  and  demands  more,  else 
he  will  fear  to  venture  among  the  “ savages.”  Suppose  you  give 
him  a box  of  bottles  to  carry,  or  a desk,  or  any  thing  else  that  re- 
quires great  care,  and  you  caution  him  of  its  contents,  the  first 
thing  he  does  is  to  commence  swinging  it  round  and  round,  or 
putting  it  topsy-turvy  on  the  top  of  his  head,  when  he  will  run 


XXX 


INTRODUCTION. 


off  at  a jog-trot,  singing  and  laughing  in  the  most  provoking 
manner,  and  thinking  no  more  about  it  than  if  it  were  an  old 
stone ; even  if  rain  were  falling,  he  would  put  it  in  the  best  place 
to  get  wet  through.  Economy,  care,  or  forethought  never,  enters 
his  head ; the  first  thing  to  hand  is  the  right  thing  for  him ; and, 
rather  than  take  the  trouble  even  to  look  for  his  own  rope  to  tie 
up  his  bundle,  he  would  cut  off  his  master’s  tent-ropes  or  steal  his 
comrade’s.  His  greatest  delight  is  in  the  fair  sex,  and  when  he 
can’t  get  them,  next  comes  beer,  song,  and  a dance. 

Now  this  is  a mild  specimen  of  the  “rowdy”  negro,  who  has 
contributed  more  to  open  Africa  to  enterprise  and  civilization 
than  any  one  else.  Possessed  of  a wonderful  amount  of  loquac- 
ity, great  risibility,  but  no  stability — a creature  of  impulse  — a 
grown  child,  in  short — at  first  sight  it  seems  wonderful  how  he 
can  be  trained  to  work ; for  there  is  no  law,  no  home  to  bind 
him:  he  could  run  away  at  any  moment;  and,  presuming  on  this, 
he  sins,  expecting  to  be  forgiven.  Great  forbearance,  occasionally 
tinctured  with  a little  fatherly  severity,  is,  I believe,  the  best  dose 
for  him ; for  he  says  to  his  master,  in  the  most  childish  manner, 
after  sinning,  “You  ought  to  forgive  and  to  forget;  for  are  you 
not  a big  man  who  should  be  above  harboring  spite,  though  for 
a moment  you  may  be  angry  ? Flog  me  if  you  like,  but  don’t 
keep  count  against  me,  else  I shall  run  away ; and  what  will  you 
do  then?” 

The  language  of  this  people  is  just  as  strange  as  they  are  them- 
selves. It  is  based  on  euphony,  from  which  cause  it  is  very  com- 
plex, the  more  especially  so  as  it  requires  one  to  be  possessed  of 
a negro’s  turn  of  mind  to  appreciate  the  system,  and  unravel  the 
secret  of  its  euphonic  concord.  A Kisuahili  grammar,  written  by 
Dr.  Krapf,  will  exemplify  what  I mean.  There  is  one  peculiarity, 
however,  to  which  I would  direct  the  attention  of  the  reader  most 
particularly,  which  is,  that  Wa  prefixed  to  the  essential  word  of  a 
country  means  men  or  people;  M prefixed  means  man  or  indi- 
vidual ; U,  in  the  same  way,  means  place  or  locality ; and  Ki  pre- 
fixed indicates  the  language.  Example:  Wagogo  is  the  people 
of  Gogo;  Mgogo  is  a Gogo  man  ; Ugogo  is  the  country  of  Gogo; 
and  Kigogo  the  language  of  Gogo. 

The  only  direction  here  necessary  as  regards  pronunciation  of 
native  words  refers  to  the  u,  which  represents  a sound  correspond- 
ing to  that  of  the  oo  in  woo. 


RIVER  CALI 


CREAT  KRISHNA 

through 

CushaaDwip . without 

and 

Slranklia  Dtvip . proper 

irorn.  t he 

PLEAS S 

"by 

Lieul  .Francis  ^Vilford. . 


ator 


--.vu  _ 


'JLnxxbi 
( Pemba, 


y^E’emba.L 


# Comoro  I! 
-The  (2>hwzn$ 


I . 

S oma  Giri . or 
3IT?  of  the  Hoorn 


Longitude  E . 35  of  Greenwich. 


IlaJ-'jj  er  others,  Jtf.Y. 


JOURNAL  OF  THE  DISCOVERY 


OF 

THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE, 


CHAPTER  I. 

LONDON  TO  ZANZIBAR,  1859. 

The  Design. — The  Preparations. — Departure. — The  Cape. — The  Ztilh  Kafirs. — 
Turtle-turning. — Capture  of  a Slaver. — Arrive  at  Zanzibar. — Local  Polities  and 
News  since  last  Visit. — Organization  of  the  Expedition. 

My  third  expedition  in  Africa,  which  was  avowedly  for  the 
purpose  of  establishing  the  truth  of  my  assertion  that  the  Victoria 
N’yanza,  which  I discovered  on  the  30th  of  July,  1858,  would 
eventually  prove  to  be  the  source  of  the  Nile,  may  be  said  to 
have  commenced  on  the  9th  of  May,  1859,  the  first  day  after  my 
return  to  England  from  my  second  expedition,  when,  at  the  invi- 
tation of  Sir  R.  I.  Murchison,  I called  at  his  house  to  show  him 
my  map  for  the  information  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society. 
Sir  Roderick,  I need  only  say,  at  once  accepted  my  views ; and, 
knowing  my  ardent  desire  to  prove  to  the  wofld,  by  actual  in- 
spection of  the  exit,  that  the  Victoria  N’yanza  was  the  source  of 
the  Nile,  seized  the  enlightened  view  that  such  a discovery  should 
not  be  lost  to  the  glory  of  England  and  the  society  of  which  he 
was  president ; and  said  to  me,  “ Speke,  we  must  send  you  there 
again.”  I was  then  officially  directed,  much  against  my  own  in- 
clination, to  lecture  at  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  on  the 
geography  of  Africa,  which  I had,  as  the  sole  surveyor  of  the 
second  expedition,  laid  down  on  our  maps.*  A council  of  the 
Geographical  Society  was  now  convened  to  ascertain  what  proj- 

* Captain  Burton,  on  receiving  his  gold  medal  at  the  hands  of  Sir  Roderick  I. 
Murchison,  said,  “You  have  alluded,  sir,  to  the  success  of  the  last  expedition.  Jus- 
tice compels  me  to  state  the  circumstances  under  which  it  attained  that  success.  To 
Captain  Speke  are  due  those  geographical  results  to  which  you  have  alluded  in  such 
flattering  terms.  While  I undertook  the  history  and  ethnography,  the  languages, 
and  the  peculiarity  of  the  people,  to  Captain  Speke  fell  the  arduous  task  of  delinea- 
ting an  exact  topography,  and  of  laying  down  our  positions  by  astronomical  ob- 


32 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1859. 


ects  I had  in  view  for  making  good  my  discovery  by  connect- 
ing the  lake  with  the  Nile,  as  also  what  assistance  I should  want 
for  that  purpose. 

Some  thought  my  best  plan  would  be  to  go  up  the  Nile,  which 
seemed  to  them  the  natural  course  to  pursue,  especially  as  the 
Nile  was  said,  though  nobody  believed  it,  to  have  been  navigated 
by  expeditions  sent  out  by  Mehemet  Ali,  Viceroy  of  Egypt,  up 
to  3°  22'  north  latitude.  To  this  I objected,  as  so  many  had  tried 
it  and  failed,  from  reasons  which  had  not  transpired;  and,  at  the 
same  time,  I said  that  if  they  would  give  me  £5000  down  at  once, 
I would  return  to  Zanzibar  at  the  end  of  the  year,  march  to  Kaze 
again,  and  make  the  necessary  investigations  of  the  Victoria  Lake. 
Although,  in  addition  to  the  journey  to  the  source  of  the  river,  I 
also  proposed  spending  three  years  in  the  country,  looking  up 
tributaries,  inspecting  watersheds,  navigating  the  lake,  and  mak- 
ing collections  on  all  branches  of  natural  history,  yet  £5000  was 
thought  by  the  Geographical  Society  too  large  a sum  to  expect 
from  the  government ; so  I accepted  the  half,  saying  that,  what- 
ever the  expedition  might  cost,  I would  make  good  the  rest,  as, 
under  any  circumstances,  I would  complete  what  I had  begun, 
or  die  in  the  attempt. 

My  motive  for  deferring  the  journey  a year  was  the  hope  that 
I might,  in  the  mean  while,  send  on  fifty  men,  carrying  beads 
and  brass  wire,  under  charge  of  Arab  ivory-traders,  to  Karague, 
and  fifty  men  more,  in  the  same  way,  to  Kaze ; while  I,  arriving 
in  the  best  sea^bn  for  traveling  (May,  June,  or  July),  would  be 
able  to  push  on  expeditiously  to  my  depots  so  formed,  and  thus 
escape  the  great  disadvantages  of  traveling  with  a large  caravan 
in  a country  where  no  laws  prevail  to  protect  one  against  deser- 
tions and  theft.  Moreover,  I knew  that  the  negroes  who  would 
have  to  go  with  me,  as  long  as  they  believed  I had  property  in 
advance,  would  work  up  to  it  willingly,  as  they  would  be  the 
gainers  by  doing  so ; while,  with  nothing  before  them,  they  would 
be  always  endeavoring  to  thwart  my  advance,  to  save  them  from 
a trouble  which  their  natural  laziness  would  prompt  them  to  es- 
cape from. 

This  beautiful  project,  I am.  sorry  to  say,  was  doomed  from  the 
first ; for  I did  not  get  the  £2500  grant  of  money  or  appointment 
to  the  command  until  fully  nine  months  had  elapsed,  when  I 

servations — a labor  to  which,  at  times,  even  the  undaunted  Livingstone  found  him- 
self unequal.” 


LONDON  TO  ZANZIBAR. 


1859-60.] 


33 


•wrote  to  Colonel  Rigby,  our  consul  at  Zanzibar,  to  send  on  the 
first  installment  of  property  toward  the  interior. 

As  time  then  advanced,  the  Indian  branch  of  the  government 
very  graciously  gave  me  fifty  artillery  carbines,  with  belts  and 
sword-bayonets  attached,  and  20,000  rounds  of  ball  ammunition. 
They  lent  me  as  many  surveying  instruments  as  I wanted ; and, 
through  Sir  George  Clerk,  put  at  my  disposal  some  rich  presents, 
in  gold  watches,  for  the  chief  Arabs  who  had  so  generously  as- 
sisted us  in  the  last  expedition.  Captain  Grant,  hearing  that  I 
was  bound  on  this  journey,  being  an  old  friend  and  brother 
sportsman  in  India,  asked  me  to  take  him  with  me,  and  his  ap- 
pointment was  settled  by  Colonel  Sykes,  then  chairman  of  a com- 
mittee of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  who  said  it  would  onty 
be  a “ matter  of  charity”  to  allow  me  a companion. 

Much  at  the  same  time,  Mr.  Petherick,  an  ivory  merchant,  who 
had  spent  many  years  on  the  Nile,  arrived  in  England,  and  gra- 
tuitously offered,  as  it  would  not  interfere  with  his  trade,  to  place 
boats  at  Gondokoro,  and  send  a party  of  men  up  the  White  River 
to  collect  ivory  in  the  mean  while,  and  eventually  to  assist  me  in 
coming  down.  Mr.  Petherick,  I may  add,  showed  great  zeal  for 
geographical  exploits ; so,  as  I could  not  get  money  enough  to  do 
all  that  I wished  to  accomplish  myself,  I drew  out  a project  for 
him  to  ascend  the  stream  now  known  as  the  Usua  River  (report- 
ed to  be  the  larger  branch  of  the  Nile),  and,  if  possible,  ascertain 
what  connection  it  had  with  my  lake.  This  being  agreed  to,  I 
did  my  best,  through  the  medium  of  Earl  de  Grey  (then  Presi- 
dent of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society),  to  advance  him  money 
to  carry  out  this  desirable  object. 

The  last  difficulty  I had  now  before  me  was  to  obtain  a passage 
to  Zanzibar.  The  Indian  government  had  promised  me  a vessel 
of  war  to  convey  me  from  Aden  to  Zanzibar,  provided  it  did  not 
interfere  with  the  public  interests.  This  doubtful  proviso  in- 
duced me  to  apply  to  Captain  Playfair,  Assistant  Political  at 
Aden,  to  know  what  government  vessel  would  be  available ; and 
should  there  be  none,  to  get  for  me  a passage  by  some  American 
trader.  The  China  war,  he  assured  me,  had  taken  up  all  the 
government  vessels,  and  there  appeared  no  hope  left  for  me  that 
season,  as  the  last  American  trader  was  just  then  leaving  for 
Zanzibar.  In  this  dilemma,  it  appeared  that  I must  inevitably 
lose  the  traveling  season,  and  come  in  for  the  droughts  and  fam- 
ines. The  tide,  however,  turned  in  my  favor  a little ; for  I ob- 

■ C 


34  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [1859-60. 

tained,  by  permission  of  the  Admiralty,  a passage  in  the  British 
screw  steam-frigate  Forte,  under  orders  to  convey  Admiral  Sir 
H.  Keppel  to  his  command  at  the  Cape;  and  Sir  Charles  Wood 
most  obligingly  made  a request  that  I should  be  forwarded  thence 
to  Zanzibar  in  one  of  our  slaver-hunting  cruisers  by  the  earliest 
opportunity. 

On  the  27th  of  April,  Captain  Grant  and  I embarked  on  board 
the  new  steam-frigate  Forte,  commanded  by  Captain  E.  W.  Tur- 
nour,  at  Portsmouth ; and  after  a long  voyage,  touching  at  Ma- 
deira and  Eio  de  Janeiro,  we  arrived  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Flope 
on  the  4th  of  July.  Here  Sir  George  Grey,  the  governor  of  the 
colony,  who  took  a warm  and  enlightened  interest  in  the  cause 
of  the  expedition,  invited  both  Grant  and  myself  to  reside  at  his 
house.  Sir  George  had  been  an  old  explorer  himself — was  once 
wounded  by  savages  in  Australia,  much  in  the  same  manner  as  I 
had  been  in  the  Somali  country — and,  with  a spirit  of  sympathy, 
he  called  me  his  son,  and  said  he  hoped  I would  succeed.  Then, 
thinking  how  best  he  could  serve  me,  he  induced  the  Cape  Parli- 
ament to  advance  to  the  expedition  a sum  of  £300,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  buying  baggage-mules;  and  induced  Lieut.  Gen.  Wynyard, 
the  commander-in-chief,  to  detach  10  volunteers  from  the  Cape 
Mounted  Rifle  Corps  to  accompany  me.  When  this  addition  was 
made  to  my  force  of  12  mules  and  10  Hottentots,  the  admiral 

of  the  station  placed  the  screw 
steam-corvette  Brisk  at  my  dis- 
posal, and  we  all  sailed  for  Zan- 
zibar July  16th,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Capt.  A.  F.  de  Horsey, 
the  admiral  himself  accompany- 
ing us  on  one  of  his  annual  in- 
spections to  visit  the  east  coast 
of  Africa  and  the  Mauritius.  In 
five  days  more  we  touched  at 
East  London,  and,  thence  pro- 
ceeding north,  made  a short  stay 
at  Delagoa  Bay,  where  I first  be- 
came acquainted  with  the  Zulu 
Kafirs,  a naked  set  of  negroes, 
whose  national  costume  princi- 
pally consists  in  having  their 
hair  trussed  up  like  a hoop  on 


LONDON  TO  ZANZIBAR. 


35 


Aug.] 

the  top  of  the  head,  and  an  appendage  like  a thimble,  to  which 
they  attach  a mysterious  importance.  They  wear  additional  or- 
naments, charms,  etc.,  of  birds’  claws,  hoofs  and  horns  of  wild  an- 
imals tied  on  with  strings,  and  sometimes  an  article  like  a kilt, 
made  of  loose  strips  of  skin,  or  the  entire  skins  of  vermin  strung- 
close  together.  These  things  I have  merely  noticed  in  passing, 
because  I shall  hereafter  have  occasion  to  allude  to  a migratory 
people,  the  Watuta,  who,  dressing  much  in  the  same  manner,  ex- 
tend from  Lake  N’yassa  to  Uzinza,  and  may  originally  have  been 
a part  of  this  same  Kafir  race,  who  are  themselves  supposed  to 
have  migrated  from  the  regions  at  present  occupied  by  the  Grallas. 
Kext  day  (the  28th)  we  went  on  to  Europa,  a small  island  of  cor- 
alline, covered  with  salsolaceous  shrubs,  and  tenanted  only  by 
sea-birds,  owls,  finches,  rats,  and  turtles.  Of  the  last  we  succeeded 
in  turning  three,  the  average  weight  of  each  being  360  lbs.,  and 
we  took  large  numbers  of  their  eggs. 

We  then  went  to  Mozambique,  and  visited  the  Portuguese  gov- 
ernor, John  Travers  de  Almeida,  who  showed  considerable  inter- 
est in  the  prospects  of  the  expedition,  and  regretted  that,  as  it  cost 
so  much  money  to  visit  the  interior  from  that  place,  his  officers 
were  unable  to  go  there.  One  experimental  trip  only  had  been 
accomplished  by  Mr.  Soares,  who  was  forced  to  pay  the  Makiia 
chiefs  $120  footing  to  reach  a small  hill  in  view  of  the  sea,  about 
twenty-five  miles  off. 

Leaving  Mozambique  on  the  9th  of  August,  bound  for  Johanna, 
we  came  the  next  day,  at  11  30  A.  M.,  in  sight  of  a slaver,  ship- 
rigged,  bearing  on  us  full  sail,  but  so  distant  from  us  that  her 
mast-tops  were  only  just  visible.  As  quick  as  ourselves,  she  saw 
who  we  were,  and  tried  to  escape  by  retreating.  This  manoeuvre 
left  no  doubt  what  she  was,  and  the  Brisk,  all  full  of  excitement, 
gave  chase  at  full  speed,  and  in  four  hours  more  drew  abreast  of 
her.  A great  commotion  ensued  on  board  the  slaver.  The  sea- 
pirates  threw  overboard  their  colors,  bags,  and  numerous  boxes, 
but  would  not  heave-to,  although  repeatedly  challenged,  until  a 
gun  was  fired  across  her  bows.  Our  boats  were  then  lowered, 
and  in  a few  minutes  more  the  “prize”  was  taken  by  her  crew 
being  exchanged  for  some  of  our  men,  and  we  learned  all  about 
her  from  accurate  reports  furnished  by  Mr.  Frere,  the  Cape  Slave 
Commissioner.  Cleared  from  Havana  as  “ the  Sunny  South,” 
professing  to  be  destined  for  Hong-Kong,  she  changed  her  name 
to  the  Manuela,  and  came  slave-hunting  in  these  regions.  The 


86 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


slaver’s  crew  consisted  of  a captain,  doctor,  and  several  sailors, 
mostly  Spaniards.  The  vessel  was  well  stored  with  provisions 
and  medicines,  but  there  was  scarcely  enough  room  in  her,  though 
she  was  said  to  be  only  half  freighted,  for  the  544  creatures  they 
were  transporting.  The  next  morning,  as  we  entered  Pamoni 
Harbor  by  an  intricate  approach  to  the  rich  little  island  hill  Jo- 
hanna, the  slaver,  as  she  followed  us,  stranded,  and  for  a while 
caused  considerable  alarm  to  every  body  but  her  late  captain. 
He  thought  his  luck  very  bad,  after  escaping  so  often,  to  be  taken 
thus;  for  his  vessel’s  powers  of  sailing  were  so  good,  that,  had  she 
had  the  wind  in  her  favor,  the  Brisk,  even  with  the  assistance  of 
steam,  could  not  have  come  up  with  her.  On  going  on  board  her, 
I found  the  slaves  to  be  mostly  Wahiyow.  A few  of  them  were 
old  women,  but  all  the  rest  children.  They  had  been  captured 
during  wars  in  their  own  country,  and  sold  to  Arabs,  who  brought 
them  to  the  coast,  and  kept  them  half  starved  until  the  slaver  ar- 
rived, when  they  were  shipped  in  dhows  and  brought  off  to  the 
slaver,  where  for  nearly  a week,  while  the  bargains  were  in  prog- 
ress, they  were  kept  entirely  without  food.  It  was  no  wonder, 
then,  every  man  of  the  Brisk  who  first  looked  upon  them  did  so 
with  a feeling  of  loathing  and  abhorrence  of  such  a trade.  All 
over  the  vessel,  but  more  especially  below,  old  women,  stark 
naked,  were  dying  in  the  most  disgusting  “ferret-box”  atmos- 
phere, while  all  those  who  had  sufficient  strength  were  pulling 
up  the  hatches,  and  tearing  at  the  salt  fish  they  found  below,  like 
dogs  in  a kennel. 

On  the  15th  the  Manuela  was  sent  to  the  Mauritius,  and  we, 
after  passing  the  Comoro  Islands,  arrived  at  our  destination,  Zan- 
zibar— called  Lunguja  by  the  aborigines,  the  Wakhadim,  and 
Unguja  by  the  present  Wasuahili. 

On  the  17th,  after  the  anchor  was  cast,  without  a moment’s  de- 
lay I went  off  to  the  British  Consulate  to  see  my  old  friend  Col- 
onel Rigby.  He  was  delighted  to  see  us,  and,  in  anticipation  of 
our  arrival,  had  prepared  rooms  for  our  reception,  that  both  Cap- 
tain Grant  and  myself  might  enjoy  his  hospitality  until  arrange- 
ments could  be  made  for  our  final  start  into  the  interior.  The 
town,  which  I had  left  in  so  different  a condition  sixteen  months 
before,  was  in  a state  of  great  tranquillity,  brought  about  by  the 
energy  of  the  Bombay  government  on  the  Muscat  side,  and  Colo- 
nel Rigby’s  exertions  on  this  side,  in  preventing  an  insurrection 
Sultan  Majid’s  brothers  had  created  with  a view  of  usurping  his 
government. 


Aug.] 


LONDON  TO  ZANZIBAR. 


37 


The  news  of  the  place  was  as  follows : In  addition  to  the  for- 
merly constituted  consulates — English,  French,  and  American — a 
fourth  one,  representing  Hamburg,  had  been  created.  Dr.  Eoscher, 
who  during  my  absence  had  made  a successful  journey  to  the 
N’yinyezi  bbyassa,  or  Star  Lake,  was  afterward  murdered  by 
some  natives  in  Uhiyow ; and  Lieutenant  Colonel  Baron  van  der 
Decken,  another  enterprising  German,  was  organizing  an  expedi- 
tion with  a view  to  search  for  the  relics  of  his  countryman,  and, 
if  possible,  complete  the  project  poor  Eoscher  had  commenced. 

Slavery  had  received  a severe  blow  by  the  sharp  measures 
Colonel  Eigby  had  taken  in  giving  tickets  of  emancipation  to  all 
those  slaves  whom  our  Indian  subjects  the  Banyans  had  been  se- 
cretly keeping,  and  by  fining  the  masters  and  giving  the  money 
to  the  men  to  set  them 
up  in  life.  The  inte- 
rior of  the  continent 
had  been  greatly  dis- 
turbed, owing  to  con- 
stant war  between  the 
natives  and  Arab  ivo- 
ry merchants.  Mguru 
Mfupi  (or  Short-legs),* 
the  chief  of  Khoko  in 
Ugogo,  for  instance, 
had  been  shot,  and 
Manua  Sera  (the  Tip- 
pler), who  succeeded 
the  old  Sultan  Fundi 
Kira,  of  Unyanyembe,  on  his  death,  shortly  after  the  late  expe- 
dition left  Kaze,  was  out  in  the  field  fighting  the  Arabs.  Eecent 
letters  from  the  Arabs  in  the  interior,  however,  gave  hopes  of 
peace  being  shortly  restored.  Finally,  in  compliance  with  my 
request — and  this  was  the  most  important  item  of  news  to  myself 
— Colonel  Eigby  had  sent  on,  thirteen  days  previously,  fifty-six 
loads  of  cloth  and  beads,  in  charge  of  two  of  Eamji’s  men,  con- 
signed to  Musa  at  Kase. 


Banyan  contemplating  his  Account-book. 


To  call  on  the  sultan,  of  course,  was  our  first  duty.  He  re- 
ceived us  in  his  usually  affable  manner;  made  many  trite  re- 
marks concerning  our  plans;  was  surprised,  if  my  only  object  in 
view  was  to  see  the  great  river  running  out  of  the  lake,  that  I 
did  not  go  by  the  more  direct  route  across  the  Masai  country 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


andUsoga;  and  then, 
finding  I wished  to 
see  Karague,  as  well 
as  to  settle  many  oth- 
er great  points  of  in- 
terest, he'  offered  to 
assist  me  with  all  the 
means  in  his  power. 

The  Hottentots,  the 
mules,  and  the  bag- 
gage having  been 
landed,  our  prepara- 
tory work  began  in 
earnest.  It  consisted 
in  proving  the  sex- 
tants ; rating  the 
watches ; examining 
the  compasses  and 
boiling  thermometers; 
making  tents  and 
pack-saddles;  order- 
ing supplies  of  beads, 
cloth,  and  brass  wire ; 

Sheikh  Said  bin  Salem,  our  late  Cafila  Bashi,  or  caravan  cap- 
tain, was  appointed  to  that  post  again,  as  he  wished  to  prove  his 
character  for  honor  and  honesty ; and  it  now  transpired  that  he 
had  been  ordered  not  to  go  with  me  when  I discovered  the  Vic- 
toria N’yanza.  Bombay  and  his  brother  Mabruki  were  bound  to 
me  of  old,  and  the  first  to  greet  me  on  my  arrival  here ; while 
my  old  friends  the  Beluchs  begged  me  to  take  them  again.  The 
Hottentots,  however,  had  usurped  their  place.  I was  afterward 
sorry  for  this,  though,  if  I ever  travel  again,  I shall  trust  to  none 
but  natives,  as  the  climate  of  Africa  is  too  trying  to  foreigners. 
Colonel  Rigby,  who  had  at  heart  as  much  as  any  body  the  suc- 
cess of  the  expedition,  materially  assisted  me  in  accomplishing  my 
object — that  men  accustomed  to  discipline  and  a knowledge  of 
English  honor  and  honesty  should  be  enlisted,  to  give  confidence 
to  the  rest  of  the  men ; and  he  allowed  me  to  select  from  his 
boat’s  crew  any  men  I could  find  who  had  served  in  men-of-war, 
and  had  seen  active  service  in  India. 


Said  Majid,  Sultan  of  Zanzibar. 

and  collecting  servants  and  porters. 


Aug.] 


LONDON  TO  ZANZIBAR. 


39 


For  this  purpose,  my  factotum,  Bombay,  prevailed  on  Baraka, 
Frij,  and  Kahan — all  of  them  old  sailors,  who,  like  himself,  knew 
Hindustani — to  go  with  me.  With  this  nucleus  to  start  with,  I 
gave  orders  that  they  should  look  out  for  as  many  Wanguana 
(freed  men — i.  e.,  men  emancipated  from  slavery)  as  they  could 
enlist,  to  carry  loads,  or  do  any  other  work  required  of  them,  and 
to  follow  me  in  Africa  wherever  I wished,  until  our  arrival  in 
Egypt,  when  I would  send  them  back  to  Zanzibar.  Each  was  to 
receive  one  year’s  pay  in  advance,  and  the  remainder  when  their 
work  was  completed. 

While  this  enlistment  was  going  on  here,  Ladha  Damji,  the 
customs’  master,  was  appointed  to  collect  a hundred  pagazis 
(Wanyamuezi  porters)  to  carry  each  a load  of  cloth,  beads,  or 
brass  wire  to  Kaze,  as  they  do  for  the  ivory  merchants.  Mean- 
while, at  the  invitation  of  the  admiral,  and  to  show  him  some 
sport  in  hippopotamus-shooting,  I went  with  him  in  a dhow  over 
to  Ivusiki,  near  which  there  is  a tidal  lagoon,  which  at  high  tide 
is  filled  with  water,  but  at  low  water  exposes  sand  islets  covered 
with  mangrove  shrub.  In  these  islets  we  sought  for  the  animals, 
knowing  they  were  given  to  lie  wallowing  in  the  mire,  and  we 
bagged  two.  On  my  return  to  Zanzibar,  the  Brisk  sailed  for  the 
Mauritius,  but  fortune  sent  Grant  and  myself  on  a different  cruise. 
Sultan  Majid,  having  heard  that  a slaver  was  lying  at  Pangani, 
and  being  anxious  to  show  his  good  faith  with  the  English, 
begged  me  to  take  the  command  of  one  of  his  vessels  of  war  and 
run  her  down.  Accordingly,  embarking  at  noon,  as  soon  as  the 
vessel  could  be  got  ready,  we  lay-to  that  night  at  Tombat,  with  a 
view  of  surprising  the  slaver  next  morning;  but  next  day,  on  our 
arrival  at  Pangani,  we  heard  that  she  had  merely  put  in  to  pro- 
vision there  three  days  before,  and  had  left  immediately  after- 
ward. As  I had  come  so  far,  I thought  we  might  go  ashore  and 
look  at  the  town,  which  was  found  greatly  improved  since  I last 
saw  it,  by  the  addition  of  several  coralline  houses  and  a dock- 
yard. The  natives  were  building  a dhow  with  Hindi  and  Mada- 
gascar timber.  On  going  ashore,  I might  add,  we  were  stranded 
on  the  sands,  and,  coming  off  again,  nearly  swamped  by  the  in- 
creasing surf  on  the  bar  of  the  river;  but  this  was  a trifle;  all  we 
thought  of  was  to  return  to  Zanzibar,  and  hurry  on  our  prepara- 
tions there.  This,  however,  was  not  so  easy;  the  sea  current  was 
running  north,  and  the  wind  was  too  light  to  propel  our  vessel 
against  it ; so,  after  trying  in  vain  to  make  way  in  her,  Grant  and 


40 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


I,  leaving  her  to  follow,  took  to  a boat,  after  giving  the  captain, 
who  said  we  would  get  drowned,  a letter,  to  say  we  left  the  vessel 
against  his  advice. 

We  had  a brave  crew  of  young  negroes  to  pull  us;  but,  pull 
as  they  would,  the  current  was  so  strong  that  we  feared,  if  we 
persisted,  we  should  be  drawn  into  the  broad  Indian  Ocean  ; so, 
changing  our  line,  we  bore  into  the  little  coralline  island  Maziwa, 
where,  after  riding  over  some  ugly  coral  surfs,  we  put  in  for  the 
night.  There  we  found,  to  our  relief,  some  fishermen,  who  gave 
us  fish  for  our  dinner,  and  directions  how  to  proceed. 

Next  morning,  before  daylight,  we  trusted  to  the  boat  and  our 
good  luck.  After  passing,  without  landmarks  to  guide  us,  by  an 
intricate  channel,  through  foaming  surfs,  we  arrived  at  Zanzibar 
in  the  night,  and  found  that  the  vessel  had  got  in  before  us. 

Colonel  Rigby  now  gave  me  a most  interesting  paper,  with  a 
map  attached  to  it,  about  the  Nile  and  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon. 
It  was  written  by  Lieutenant  Wilford,  from  the  “Piirans”  of  the 
ancient  Hindus.  As  it  exemplifies,  to  a certain  extent,  the  sup- 
position I formerly  arrived  at  concerning  the  Mountains  of  the 
Moon  being  associated  with  the  country  of  the  Moon,  I would 
fain  draw  the  attention  of  the  reader  of  my  travels  to  the  volume 
of  the  “Asiatic  Researches”  in  which  it  was  published.*  It  is 
remarkable  that  the  Hindus  have  christened  the  source  of  the 
Nile  Amara,  which  is  the  name  of  a country  at  the  northeast  cor- 
ner of  the  Victoria  N’yanza.  This,  I think,  shows  clearly  that 
the  ancient  Hindus  must  have  had  some  kind  of  communication 
with  both  the  northern  and  southern  ends  of  the  Victoria  N’yanza. 

Having  gone  to  work  again,  I found  that  Sheikh  Said  had 
brought  ten  men,  four  of  whom  were  purchased  for  one  hundred 
dollars,  which  I had  to  pay;  Bombay,  Baraka,  Frij,  and  Rahan 
had  brought  twenty-six  more,  all  freed  men ; while  the  Sultan 
Majid,  at  the  suggestion  of  Colonel  Rigby,  gave  me  thirty -four 
men  more,  who  were  all  raw  laborers  taken  from  his  gardens.  It 
was  my  intention  to  have  taken  one  hundred  of  this  description 
of  men  throughout  the  whole  journey ; but  as  so  many  could  not 
be  found  in  Zanzibar,  I still  hoped  to  fill  up  the  complement  in 
Unyamuezi,  the  land  of  the  Moon,  from  the  large  establishments 
of  the  Arab  merchants  residing  there.  The  payment  of  these 
men’s  wages  for  the  first  year,  as  well  as  the  terms  of  the  agree- 
ment made  with  them,  by  the  kind  consent  of  Colonel  Rigby  were 
* Vol.  iii.  of  A.D.  1801. 


Sept.] 


LONDON  TO  ZANZIBAR. 


41 


now  entered  in  the  Consular  Office  books  as  a security  to  both 
parties,  and  a precaution  against  disputes  on  the  way.*  Any  one 
who  saw  the  grateful  avidity  with  which  they  took  the  money, 
and  the  warmth  with  which  they  pledged  themselves  to  serve  me 
faithfully  through  all  dangers  and  difficulties,  would,  had  he  had 
no  dealings  with  such  men  before,  have  thought  that  I had  a first- 
rate  set  of  followers.  I lastly  gave  Sheikh  Said  a double-barreled 
rifle  by  Blissett,  and  distributed  fifty  carbines  among  the  seniors 
of  the  expedition,  with  the  condition  that  they  would  forfeit  them 
to  others  more  worthy  if  they  did  not  behave  well,  but  would  re- 
tain possession  of  them  forever  if  they  carried  them  through  the 
journey  to  my  satisfaction. 

On  the  21st,  as  every  thing  was  ready  on  the  island,  I sent 
Sheikh  Said  and  all  the  men,  along  with  the  Hottentots,  mules, 
and  baggage,  off  in  dhows  to  Bagamoyo,  on  the  opposite  main 
land.  Colonel  Rigby,  with  Captain  Grant  and  myself,  then  called 
on  the  sultan  to  bid  him  adieu,  when  he  graciously  offered  me,  as 
a guard  of  honor  to  escort  me  through  Hzaramo,  one  jemadar  and 
twenty-five  Beluch  soldiers.  These  I accepted,  more  as  a govern- 
ment security  in  that  country  against  the  tricks  of  the  natives  than 
for  any  accession  they  made  to  our  strength.  His  highness  then 
placed  his  22-gun  corvette,  “ Secundra  Shah,”  at  our  disposal,  and 
we  went  all  three  over  to  Bagamoyo,  arriving  on  the  25th.  Im- 
mediately on  landing,  Ladha  and  Sheikh  Said  showed  us  into  a 
hut  prepared  for  us,  and  all  things  looked  pretty  well.  Ladha’s 
hundred  loads  of  beads,  cloths,  and  brass  wire  were  all  tied  up  for 
the  march,  and  seventy-five  pagazis  (porters  from  the  Moon  coun- 
try) had  received  their  hire  to  carry  these  loads  to  Kaze,  in  the 
land  of  the  Moon.  Competition,  I found,  had  raised  these  men’s 
wages,  for  I had  to  pay,  to  go  even  as  far  as  Kaze,  nine  and  a 
quarter  dollars  a head ! as  Masudi  and  some  other  merchants  were 
bound  on  the  same  line  as  myself,  and  all  were  equally  in  a hurry 
to  be  off,  and  avoid  as  much  as  possible  the  famine  we  knew  we 
should  have  to  fight  through  at  this  late  season.  Littlqtroubles, 
of  course,  must  always  be  expected,,  else  these-blacks  would  not 
be  true  negroes.  Sheikh  Said  now  reported  it  quite  impossible 
to  buy  any  thing  at  a moderate  rate ; for,  as  I was  a “ big  man,” 
I ought  to  “ pay  a big  price ;”  and  my  men  had  all  been  obliged 
to  fight  in  the  bazar  before  they  could  get  even  tobacco  at  the 
same  rate  as  other  men,  because  they  were  the  servants  of  the  big 

* In  Appendix  A will  be  found  a detailed  list. 


42 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[I860. 


man,  wlio  could  afford  to  give  higher  wages  than  any  one  else. 
The  Hottentots,  too,  began  to  fall  sick,  which  my  Wanguana  laugh- 
ingly attributed  to  want  of  grog  to  keep  their  spirits  up,  as  these 
little  creatures,  the  “Tots,”  had  frequently  at  Zanzibar,  after  heavy 
potations,  boasted  to  the  more  sober  free  men  that  they  “ were 
strong,  because  they  could  stand  plenty  drink:”  The  first  step 
now  taken  was  to  pitch  camp  under  large,  shady  mango-trees,  and 
to  instruct  every  man  in  his  particular  duty.  At  the  same  time, 
the  Wanguana,  who  had  carbines,  were  obliged  to  be  drilled  in 
their  use  and  formed  into  companies,  with  captains  of  ten,  headed 
by  General  Baraka,  who  was  made  commander-in-chief. 

On  the  30th  of  September,  as  things  were  looking  more  order- 
Bagamoyoto  ly,  I sent  forward  half  of  the  property,  and  all  the 
Ugfcm‘  men  I had  then  collected,  to  Ugeni,  a shamba,  or  gar- 

den, two  miles  off ; and  on  the  2d  of  October,  after  settling  with 
Ladha  for  my  “African  money,”*  as  my  pagazis  were  completed 
to  a hundred  and  one,  we  wished  Rigby  adieu,  and  all  assembled 
together  at  Ugbni,  which  resembles  the  richest  parts  of  Bengal. 

* See  Appendix  B. 


Ocx.] 


UZAEAMO. 


43 


CHAPTER  II. 


UZAEAMO. 


The  Nature  of  the  Country. — The  Order  of  March. — The  Beginning  of  our  Taxa- 
tion.— Sultan  Lion’s  Claw  and  Sultan  Monkey’s  Tail. — The  Kingani. — Jealousies 
and  Difficulties  in  the  Camp. — The  Murderer  of  M.  Maizan. 


We  were  now  in  U-za-Ramo,  which  may  mean  the  country  of 
Ramo,  though  I have  never  found  any  natives  who  could  enlight- 
en me  on  the  derivation  of  this 
obviously  triple  word.  The  ex- 
tent of  the  country,  roughly 
speaking,  stretches  from  the 
coast  to  the  junction  or  bifurca- 
tion of  the  Kingani  and  its  up- 
per branch,  the  Mgeta  River, 
westward ; and  from  the  Kin- 
gani, north,  to  the  Lufigi  River, 
south ; though  in  the  southern 
portions  several  sub-tribes  have 
encroached  upon  the  lands. 

There  are  no  hills  in  Uzaramo ; 
but  the  land  in  the  central  line, 
formed  like  a ridge  between  the 
two  rivers,  furrow  fashion,  con- 
sists of  slightly  elevated  flats  Mzaramo,  or  Native  of  Uzaramo. 

and  terraces,  which,  in  the  rainy 

season,  throw  off  their  surplus  waters  to  the  north  and  south  by 
nullahs  into  these  rivers.  The  country  is  uniformly  well  covered 
with  trees  and  large  grasses,  which,  in  the  rainy  season,  are  too 
thick,  tall,  and  green  to  be  pleasant;  though  in  the  dry  season, 
after  the  grasses  have  been  burnt,  it  is  agreeable  enough,  though 
not  pretty,  owing  to  the  flatness  of  the  land.  The  villages  are 
not  large  or  numerous,  but  widely  spread,  consisting  generally  of 
conical  grass  huts,  while  others  are  gable-ended,  after  the  coast- 
fashion — a small  collection  of  ten  or  twenty  comprising  one  vil- 
lage. Over  these  villages  certain  head  men,  titled  Phanzb,  hold 


u 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


jurisdiction,  who  take  black-mail  from  travelers  with  high  pre- 
sumption when  they  can.  Generally  speaking,  they  live  upon 
the  coast,  and  call  themselves  Diwans,  headsmen,  and  subjects  of 
the  Sultan  Majid  ; but  they  no  sooner  hear  of  the  march  of  a cara- 
van than  they  transpose  their  position,  become  sultans  in  their 
own  right,  and  levy  taxes  accordingly. 

The  Wazaramo  are  strictly  agriculturists;  they  have  no  cows, 
and  but  few  goats.  They  are  of  low  stature  and  thick  set,  and 


Wazaramo,  People  of  Uzaramo. 


their  nature  tends  to  the  boisterous.  Expert  slave-hunters,  they 
mostly  clothe  themselves  by  the  sale  of  their  victims  on  the  coast, 
though  they  do  business  by  the  sale  of  goats  and  grain  as  well. 
Nowhere  in  the  interior  are  natives  so  well  clad  as  these  creatures. 
In  dressing  up  their  hair,  and  otherwise  smearing  their  bodies 
with  ochreish  clay,  they  are  great  dandies.  They  always  keep 
their  bows  and  arrows,  which  form  their  national  arm,  in  excel- 
lent order,  the  latter  well  poisoned,  and  carried  in  quivers  nicely 
carved.  To  intimidate  a caravan  and  extort  a hongo  or  tax,  I 
have  seen  them  drawn  out  in  line  as  if  prepared  for  battle ; but  a 
few  soft  words  were  found  sufficient  to  make  them  all  withdraw 
and  settle  the  matter  at  issue  by  arbitration  in  some  appointed 
place,  A few  men  without  property  can  cross  their  lands  fear- 
lessly, though  a single  individual  with  property  would  stand  no 
chance,  for  they  are  insatiable  thieves.  But  little  is  seen  of  these 
people  on  the  journey,  as  the  chiefs  take  their  taxes  by  deputy, 
partly  out  of  pride,  and  partly  because  they  think  they  can  ex- 
tort more  by  keeping  in  the  mysterious  distance.  At  the  same 


Oct.] 


UZARAMO. 


45 


time,  the  caravan  prefers  camping  in  the  jungles  beyond  the  vil- 
lages to  mingling  with  the  inhabitants,  where  rows  might  be  en- 
gendered. We  sometimes  noticed  albinos  with  grayish-blue  eyes 
and  light  straw-colored  hair.  Not  unfrequently  we  would  pass 
on  the  track-side  small  heaps  of  white  ashes,  with  a calcined  bone 
or  two  among  them.  These,  we  were  told,  were  the  relics  of 
burnt  witches.  The  caravan  track  we  had  now  to  travel  on  leads 
along  the  right  bank  of  the  Kingani  valley,  overlooking  Uzegura, 
which,  corresponding  with  Uzaramo,  only  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Kingani,  extends  northward  to  the  Pangani  Eiver,  and  is  in- 
tersected in  the  centre  by  the  Wami  River,  of  which  more  here- 
after. 

Starting  on  a march  with  a large  mixed  caravan,  consisting  of 
1 corporal  and  9 privates,  Hottentots — 1 jemadar  and 
To  Bomam,  3d  privates,  Beluchs — 1 Arab  Cafila  Bashi  and  75 

freed  slaves — 1 kirangozi  or  leader,  and  100  negro  porters — 12 
mules  untrained,  3 donkeys,  and  22  goats — one  could  hardly  ex- 
pect to  find  every  body  in  his  place  at  the  proper  time  for  break- 
ing ground ; but,  at  the  same  time,  it  could  hardly  be  expected 
that  ten  men,  who  had  actually  received  their  bounty-money,  and 
had  sworn  fidelity,  should  give  one  the  slip  the  very  first  day. 
Such,  however,  was  the  case.  Ten  out  of  the  thirty-six  given  by 
the  sultan  ran  away,  because  they  feared  that  the  white  men, 
whom  they  believed  to  be  cannibals,  were  only  taking  them  into 
the  interior  to  eat  them;  and  one  pagazi,  more  honest  than  the 
freed  men,  deposited  his  pay  upon  the  ground,  and  ran  away  too. 
Go  we  must,  however,  for  one  desertion  is  sure  to  lead  to  more ; 
and  go  we  did.  Our  procession  was  in  this  fashion : The  kiran- 
gozi, with  a load  on  his  shoulder,  led  the  way,  flag  in  hand,  fol- 
lowed by  the  pagazis  carrying  spears  or  bows  and  arrows  in  jiheir 
hands,  and  bearing  their  share  of  the  baggage  in  the  shape  either 
of  bolster-shaped  loads  of  cloth  and  beads  covered  with  matting, 
each  tied  into  the  fork  of  a three-pronged  stick,  or  else  coils  of 
brass  or  copper  wire  tied  in  even  weights  to  each  end  of  sticks 
which  they  laid  on  the  shoulder;  then  helter-skelter  came  the 
Wanguana,  carrying  carbines  in  their  hands,  and  boxes,  bundles, 
tents,  cooking-pots — all  the  miscellaneous  property  on  their  heads; 
next  the  Hottentots,  dragging  the  refractory  mules  laden  with 
ammunition-boxes,  but  very  lightly,  to  save  the  animals  for  the 
future ; and,  finally,  Sheikh  Said  and  the  Beluch  escort,  while 
the  goats,  sick  women,  and  stragglers  brought  up  the  rear.  From 


46 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


first  to  last,  some  of  the  sick  Hottentots  rode  tire  hospital  donkeys, 
allowing  the  negroes  to  tug  their  animals ; for  the  smallest  ail- 
ment threw  them  broadcast  on  their  backs. 

In  a little  while  we  cleared  from  the  rich  gardens,  mango 
clumps,  and  cocoa-nut-trees,  which  characterize  the  fertile  coast- 
line. After  traversing  fields  of  grass  well  clothed  with  green 
trees,  we  arrived  at  the  little  settlement  of  Bomani,  where  camp 
was  formed,  and  every  body  fairly  appointed  to  his  place.  The 
process  of  camp-forming  would  be  thus : Sheikh  Said,  with  Bom- 
bay under  him,  issues  cloths  to  the  men  for  rations  at  the  rate  of 
one  fourth  load  a day  (about  15  lbs.)  among  165 ; the  Hottentots 
cook  our  dinners  and  their  own,  or  else  lie  rolling  on  the  ground 
overcome  by  fatigue ; the  Beluchs  are  supposed  to  guard  the 
camp,  but  prefer  gossip  and  brightening  their  arms.  Some  men 
are  told  off  to  look  after  the  mules,  donkeys,  and  goats  while  out 
grazing ; the  rest  have  to  pack  the  kit,  pitch  our  tents,  cut  boughs 
for  huts  and  for  fencing  in  the  camp — a thing  rarely  done,  by-the- 
by.  After  cooking,  when  the  night  has  set  in,  the  everlasting 
dance  begins,  attended  with  clapping  of  hands  and  jingling  small 
bells  strapped  to  the  legs,  the  whole  being  accompanied  by  a 
constant  repetition  of  senseless  words,  which  stand  in  place  of  the 
song  to  the  negroes ; for  song  they  have  none,  being  mentally  in- 
capacitated for  musical  composition,  though  as  timists  they  are 
not  to  be  surpassed. 

What  remains  to  be  told  is  the  daily  occupation  of  Captain 
Grant,  myself,  and  our  private  servants.  Beginning  at  the  foot: 
Bahan,  a very  peppery  little  negro,  who  had  served  in  a British 
man-of-war  at  the  taking  of  Rangoon,  was  my  valet ; and  Baraka, 
who  had  been  trained  much  in  the  same  manner,  but  had  seen 
engagements  at  Multan,  was  Captain  Grant’s.  They  both  knew 
Hindustani;  but  while  Rahan’s  services  at  sea  had  been  short, 
Baraka  had  served  nearly  all  his  life  with  Englishmen — was  the 
smartest  and  most  intelligent  negro  I ever  saw — was  invaluable 
to  Colonel  Rigby  as  a detector  of  slave-traders,  and  enjoyed  his 
confidence  completely ; so  much  so,  that  he  said,  on  parting  with 
him,  that  he  did  not  know  where  he  should  be  able  to  find  an- 
other man  to  fill  his'  post.  These  two  men  had  now  charge  of  our 
tents  and  personal  kit,  while  Baraka  was  considered  the  general 
of  the  Wanguana  forces,  and  Rahan  a captain  of  ten. 

My  first  occupation  was  to  map  the  country.  This  is  done  by 
timing  the  rate  of  march  with  a watch,  taking  compass-bearings 


Oct.] 


UZARAMO. 


47 


along  the  road  or  on  any  conspicuous  marks — as,  for  instance, 
hills  off  it — and  by  noting  the  watershed — in  short,  all  topograph- 
ical objects.  On  arrival  in  camp  every  day  came  the  ascertain- 
ing, by  boiling  a thermometer,  of  the  altitude  of  the  station  above 
the  sea-level ; of  the  latitude  of  the  station  by  the  meridian  alti- 
tude of  a star  taken  witlr  a sextant ; and  of  the  compass  variation 
by  azimuth.  Occasionally  there  was  the  fixing  of  certain  crucial 
stations,  at  intervals  of  sixty  miles  or  so,  by  lunar  observations, 
or  distances  of  the  moon  either  from  the  sun  or  from  certain  giv- 
en stars,  for  determining  the  longitude,  by  which  the  original- 
timed  course  can  be  drawn  out  with  certainty  on  the  map  by  pro- 
portion. Should  a date  be  lost,  you  can  always  discover  it  by 
taking  a lunar  distance  and  comparing  it  with  the  Nautical  Al- 
manac, by  noting  the  time  when  a star  passes  the  meridian  if  your 
watch  is  right,  or  by  observing  the  phases  of  the  moon,  or  her 
rising  or  setting,  as  compared  with  the  Nautical  Almanac.  The 
rest  of  my  work,  besides  sketching  and  keeping  a diary,  which 
was  the  most  troublesome  of  all,  consisted  in  making  geological 
and  zoological  collections.  With  Captain  Grant  rested  the  botan- 
ical collections  and  thermometrical  registers.  He  also  boiled  one 
of  the  thermometers,  kept  the  rain-gauge,  and  undertook  the  pho- 
tography ; but  after  a time  I sent  the  instruments  back,  consider- 
ing this  work  too  severe  for  the  climate,  and  he  tried  instead 
sketching  with  water-colors,  the  results  of  which  form  the  chief 
part  of  the  illustrations  in  this  book.  The  rest  of  our  day  went 
in  breakfasting  after  the  march  was  over — a pipe,  to  prepare  us 
for  rummaging  the  fields  and  villages  to  discover  their  contents 
for  scientific  purposes — dinner  close  to  sunset,  and  tea  and  pipe 
before  turning  in  at  night. 

A short  stage  brought  us  to  Ikamburu,  included  in  the  district 
t ik  i _ _ ^ of  Nzasa,  where  there  is  another  small  village  pre- 
' sided  over  by  Phanze  Khombe  la  SimbaJ  meaning 
Claw  of  Lion.  He,  immediately  after  our  arrival,  sent  us  a pres- 
ent of  a basket  of  rice,  value  one  dollar,  of  course  expecting  a re- 
turn, for  absolute,  generosity  is  a thing  unknown  to  the  negro. 
Not  being  aware  of  the  value  of  the  offering,  I simply  requested 
the  sheikh  to  give  him  four  yards  of  American  sheeting,  and 
thought  no  more  about  the  matter,  until  presently  I found  the 
cloth  returned.  The  “ sultan”  could  not  think  of  receiving  such 
a paltry  present  from  me,  when  on  the  former  journey  he  got  so 
much : if  he  showed  this  cloth  at  home,  nobody  would  believe 


48 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


him,  but  would  say  be  took  muck  more  and  concealed  it  from  his 
family,  wishing  to  keep  all  his  goods  to  himself.  I answered  that 
my  footing  in  the  country  had  been  paid  for  on  the  last  journey, 
and  unless  he  would  accept  me  as  any  other  common  traveler,  he 
had  better  walk  away ; but  the  little  sheikh,  a timid,  though  very 
gentlemanly  creature,  knowing  the  man,  and  dreading  the  conse- 
quences of  too  high  a tone,  pleaded  for  him,  and  proposed  as  a fit- 
ting bongo  one  dubuani,  one  sahari,  and  eight  yards  merikani,* 
as  the  American  sheeting  is  called  here.  This  was  pressed  by 
the  jemadar,  and  acceded  to  by  myself,  as  the  very  utmost  I could 
afford.  Lion’s  Claw,  however,  would  not  accept  it;  it  was  too  far 
below  the  mark  of  what  he  got  last  time.  He  therefore  returned 
the  cloths  to  the  sheikh,  as  he  could  get  no  hearing  from  myself, 
and  retreated  in  high  dudgeon,  threatening  the  caravan  with  a 
view  of  his  terrible  presence  on  the  morrow.  Meanwhile  the  lit- 
tle sheikh,  who  always  carried  a sword  fully  two  thirds  the  length 
of  himself,  commenced  casting  bullets  for  his  double-barreled  rifle, 
ordered  the  Wan  guana  to  load  their  guns,  and  came  wheedling 
up  to  me  for  one  more  cloth,  as  it  was  no  use  hazarding  the  expe- 
dition’s safety  for  four  yards  of  cloth.  This  is  a fair  specimen  of 
tax-gathering,  within  twelve  miles  of  the  coast,  by  a native  who 
claims  the  protection  of  Zanzibar.  We  shall  soon  see  what  they 
are  farther  on.  The  result  of  experience  is,  that,  ardent  as  the 
traveler  is  to  see  the  interior  of  Africa,  no  sooner  has  he  dealings 
with  the  natives  than  his  whole  thoughts  tend  to  discovering 
some  road  where  he  won’t  be  molested,  or  a short  cut,  but  long 
march,  to  get  over  the  ground. 

Quite  undisturbed,  we  packed  and  marched  as  usual,  and  soon 

passed  ISTzasa  close  to  the  river,  which  is  only  indi- 

To  Kizoto,  5th.  1 . ’ . " 

cated  by  a line  or  trees  running  through  a rich  allu- 
vial valley.  We  camped  at  the  little  settlement  of  Kizoto,  inhos- 
pitably presided  over  by  Pkanze  Mukia  ya  Nyani,  or  Monkey’s 
Tail,  who  no  sooner  heard  of  our  arrival  than  he  sent  a demand 
for  his  “ rights.”  One  dubuani  was  issued,  with  orders  that  no 
one  need  approach  me  again,  unless  he  wanted  to  smell  my  pow- 
der. Two  taxes  in  five  miles  was  a thing  unheard,  of;  and  I 
heard  no  more  about  the  matter  until  Bombay  in  the  evening  told 
me  how  Sheikh  Said,  fearing  awkward  consequences,  had  settled 
to  give  two  dubuani,  one  being  taken  from  his  own  store.  Lion’s 
Claw  also  turned  up  again,  getting  his  cloths  of  yesterday — one 
* See  Appendix  B. 


UZARAMO. 


49 


Oct.] 

more  being  added  from  the  sheikh’s  stores — and  he  was  then  ad- 
vised to  go  off  quietly,  as  I was  a fire-eater  whom  nobody  dared 
approach  after  my  orders  had  been  issued.  This  was  our  third 
march  in  Uzaramo ; we  had  scarcely  seen  a man  of  the  country, 
and  had  no  excessive  desire  to  do  so. 

Deflecting  from  the  serpentine  course  of  the  Kingani  a little, 
to  Kiranga  we  crossed  a small  bitter  rivulet,  and  entered  on  the 
Eanga,  6th.  elevated  cultivation  of  Kiranga  Ranga,  under  Phanze 
Mkungu-pard,  a very  mild  man,  who,  wishing  to  give  no  offense, 
begged  for  a trifling  present.  He  came  in  person,  and  his  man- 
ner having  pleased  us,  I gave  him  one  sahari,  four  yards  merikani, 
and  eight  yards  kiniki,  which  pleased  our  friend  so  much  that  he 
begged  us  to  consider  his  estate  our  own,  even  to  the  extent  of  ad- 
ministering his  justice,  should  any  Mzaramo  be  detected  stealing 
from  us.  Our  target-practice,  while  instructing  the  men,  aston- 
ished him  not  a little,  and  produced  an  exclamation  that,  with  so 
many  guns,  we  need  fear  nothing,  go  where  we  would.  From 
this  place  a good  view  is  obtained  of  Uzegura.  Beyond  the  flat 
alluvial  valley  of  the  Kingani,  seven  to  eight  miles  broad,  the  land 
rises  suddenly,  to  a table-land  of  no  great  height,  on  which  trees 
grow  in  profusion.  In  fact,  it  appeared,  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  the  very  counterpart  of  that  where  we  stood,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a small  hill,  very  distant,  called  Phongue. 

A very  welcome  packet  of  quinine  and  other  medicines  reached 
us  here  from  Rigby,  who,  hearing  our  complaints  that  the  Hotten- 
tots could  only  be  kept  alive  by  daily  potions  of  brandy  and  qui- 
nine, feared  our  supplies  were  not  enough,  and  sent  us  more. 

We  could  not  get  the  sultan’s  men  to  chum  with  the  Wanguana 
proper;  they  were  shy,  like  wild  animals — built  their  huts  by 
themselves,  and  ate  and  talked  by  themselves,  for  they  felt  them- 
selves inferiors ; and  I had  to  nominate  one  of  their  number  to  be 
their  immediate  chief,  answerable  for  the  actions  of  the  whole. 
Being  in  the  position  of  “ boots”  to  the  camp,  the  tending  of  goats 
fell  to  their  lot.  Three  goats  were  missing  this  evening,  which 
the  goatherds  could  not  account  for,  nor  any  of  their  men.  Sus- 
pecting that  they  were  hidden  for  a private  feast,  I told  their 
chief  to  inquire  farther  and  report.  The  upshot  was,  that  the 
man  was  thrashed  for  intermeddling,  and  came  back  only  with 
his  scars.  This  was  a nice  sort  of  insubordination,  which  of 
course  could  not  be  endured.  The  goatherd  was  pinioned  and 
brought  to  trial,  for  the  double  offense  of  losing  the  goats  and 

D 


50 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


rough-handling  his  chief.  The  tricking  scoundrel  — on  quietly 
saying  he  could  not  be  answerable  for  other  men’s  actions  if  they 
stole  goats,  and  he  could  not  recognize  a man  as  his  chief  whom 
the  sheikh,  merely  by  a whim  of  his  own,  thought  proper  to  ap- 
point— was  condemned  to  be  tied  up  for  the  night,  with  the  pros- 
pect of  a flogging  in  the  morning.  Seeing  his  fate,  the  cunning 
vagabond  said,  “Now  I do  see  it  was  by  your  orders  the  chief 
was  appointed,  and  not  by  a whim  of  Sheikh  Said’s ; I will  obey 
him  for  the  future and  these  words  were  hardly  pronounced 
than  the  three  missing  goats  rushed  like  magic  into  camp,  nobody 
of  course  knowing  where  they  came  from. 

Skirting  along  the  margin  of  the  rising  ground  overlooking 
to  Thumba  the  river,  through  thick  woods,  cleared  in  places  for 
Lher6,  ith.  cultivation,  we  arrived  at  Thumba  Lhere.  The 
chief  here  took  a bongo  of  three  yards  merikani  and  two  yards 
kiniki  without  much  fuss,  for  he  had  no  power.  The  pagazis 
struck,  and  said  they  would  not  move  from  this  unless  I gave 
them  one  fundo  or  ten  necklaces  of  beads  each  daily,  in  lieu  of 
rations,  as  they  were  promised  by  Ladha  on  the  coast  that  I 
would  do  so  as  soon  as  they  had  made  four  marches.  This  was 
an  obvious  invention,  concocted  to  try  my  generosity ; for  I had 
given  the  kirangozi  a goat,  which  is  customary,  to  “make  the 
journey  prosperous” — had  suspended  a dollar  to  his  neck  in  rec- 
ognition of  his  office,  and  given  him  four  yards  merikani,  that  he 
might  have  a grand  feast  with  his  brothers;  while  neither  the 
sheikh,  myself,  nor  any  one  else  in  the  camp  had  heard  of  such 
a compact.  With  high  words  the  matter  dropped,  African  fash- 
ion. 

The  pagazis  would  not  start  at  the  appointed  time,  hoping  to 
enforce  their  demands  of  last  night;  so  we  took  the 
lead  and  started,  followed  by  the  Wan  guana.  See- 
ing this,  the  pagazis  cried  out  with  one  accord,  “The  master  is 
gone,  leaving  the  responsibility  of  his  property  in  our  hands ; let 
us  follow,  let  us  follow,  for  verily  he  is  our  father;”  and  all  came 
hurrying  after  us.  Here  the  river,  again  making  a bend,  is  lost 
to  sight,  and  we  marched  through  large  woods  and  cultivated 
fields  to  Muhugue,  observing,  as  we  passed  along,  the  ochreish 
color  of  the  earth,  and  numerous  pits  which  the  copal-diggers  had 
made  searching  for  their  much-valued  gum.  A large  coast-bound 
caravan,  carrying  ivory  tusks  with  double-toned  bells  suspended 
to  them,  ting-tonging  as  they  moved  along,  was  met  on  the  way ; 


To  Muhugu6, 
S th. 


Oct.] 


UZARAMO. 


51 


and  as  some  of  the  pagazis  composing  it  were  men  who  had  for- 
merly taken  me  to  the  Victoria  N’yanza,  warm  recognitions 
passed  between  us.  The  water  found  here  turned  our  brandy 
and  tea  as  black  as  ink.  The  chief,  being  a man  of  small  preten- 
sions, took  only  one  sahari  and  four  yards  merikani. 

Instead  of  going  on  to  the  next  village,  we  halted  in  this  jungly 
To  Muhonyera,  place  for  the  day,  that  I might  comply  with  the  de- 
Slh ■ sire  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  to  inspect 

Muhonyera,  and  report  if  there  were  really  any  indications  of  a 
“raised  sea-beach”  there,  such  as  their  maps  indicate.  An  in- 
spection brought  me  to  the  conclusion  that  no  mind  but  one  prone 
to  discovering  sea-beaches  in  the  most  unlikely  places  could  have 
supposed  for  a moment  that  one  existed  here.  The  form  and  ap- 
pearance of  the  land  are  the  same  as  we  have  seen  every  where 
since  leaving  Bomani — a low  plateau  subtended  by  a bank  cut 
down  by  the  Kingani  River,  and  nothing  more.  There  are  no 
pebbles;  the  soil  is  rich  reddish  loam,  well  covered  with  trees, 
bush,  and  grass,  in  which  some  pigs  and  antelopes  are  found. 
From  the  top  of  this  embankment  we  gain  the  first  sight  of  the 
Bast  Coast  Range,  due  west  of  us,  represented  by  the  high  ele- 
phant’s-back  hill  Mkambaku,  in  Usagara,  which,  joining  Uragura, 
stretches  northward  across  the  Pangani  River  to  Usumbara  and 
the  Kilimandjaro,  and  southward,  with  a westerly  deflection, 
across  the  Lufiji  to  Southern  N’yassa.  What  course  the  range 
takes  beyond  those  two  extremes  the  rest  of  the  world  knows  as 
well  as  I.  Another  conspicuous  landmark  here  is  Kidunda  (the 
little  hill),  which  is  the  southernmost  point  of  a low  chain  of  hills, 
also  tending  northward,  and  representing  an  advance-guard  to 
the  higher  East  Coast  Range  in  its  rear.  At  night,  as  we  had  no 
local  “sultans”  to  torment  us,  eight  more  men  of  Sultan  Majid’s 
donation  ran  away,  and,  adding  injury  to  injury,  took  with  them 
all  our  goats,  fifteen  in  number.  This  was  a sad  loss.  We  could 
keep  ourselves  on  Guinea-fowls  or  green  pigeons,  doves,  etc. ; but 
the  Hottentots  wanted  nourishment  much  more  than  ourselves, 
and  as  their  dinners  always  consisted  of  what  we  left,  “short 
commons”  was  the  fate  in  store  for  them.  The  Wanguana,  in- 
stead of  regarding  these  poor  creatures  as  soldiers,  treated  them 
like  children ; and  once,  as  a diminutive  Tot — the  common  name 
they  go  by — was  exerting  himself  to  lift  his  pack  and  place  it  on 
his  mule,  a fine  Herculean  Mguana  stepped  up  behind,  grasped 
Tot,  pack  and  all,  in  his  muscular  arms,  lifted  the  whole  over  his 


52 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


head,  paraded  the  Tot  about,  struggling  for  release,  and  put  him 
down  amid  the  laughter  of  the  camp,  then  saddled  his  mule  and 
patted  him  on  the  back. 

After  sending  a party  of  Beluch  to  track  down  the  deserters 
to  sa-esc-ra  and  goats,  in  which  they  were  not  successful,  we 
l0th ■ ° passed  through  the  village  of  Sagesera.,  and  camped 

one  mile  beyond,  close  to  the  river.  Phanzd  Kirongo  (which 
means  Mr.  Pit)  here  paid  us  his  respects,  with  a presentation  of 
rice.  In  return,  he  received  four  yards  merikani  and  one  dubu- 
ani,  which  Bombay  settled,  as  the  little  sheikh,  ever  done  by  the 
sultans,  pleaded  indisposition,  to  avoid  the  double  fire  he  was  al- 
ways subjected  to  on  these  occasions,  by  the  sultans  grasping  on 
the  one  side,  and  my  resisting  on  the  other;  for  I relied  on  my 
strength,  and  thought  it  very  inadvisable  to  be  generous  with  m}r 
cloth  to  the  prejudice  of  future  travelers,  by  decreasing  the  value 
of  merchandise,  and  increasing  proportionately  the  expectations 
of  these  negro  chiefs.  From  the  top  of  the  bank  bordering  on 
the  valley  a good  view  was  obtainable  of  the  Uraguru  Hills,  and 
the  top  of  a very  distant  cone  to  its  northward ; but  I could  see 
no  signs  of  any  river  joining  the  Kingani  on  its  left,  though  on 
the  former  expedition  I heard  that  the  Mukondokua  River,  wTich 
was  met  with  in  Usagara,  joined  the  Kingani  close  to  Sagesera, 
and  actually  formed  its  largest  head  branch.  Neither  could  Mr. 
Pit  inform  me  what  became  of  the  Mukondokua,  as  the  Waza- 
ramo  are  not  given  to  traveling.  He  had  heard  of  it  from  the 
traders,  but  only  knew  himself  of  one  river  beside  the  Kingani. 
It  was  called  Wami  in  Uzegura,  and  mouths  at  Utondue,  between 
the  ports  of  Whindi  and  Saadani.  To  try  and  check  the  deser- 
tions of  Sultan  Majid’s  men,  I advised — ordering  was  of  no  use — 
that  their  camp  should  be  broken  up,  and  they  should  be  amal- 
gamated with  the  Wanguana;  but  it  was  found  that  the  two 
would  not  mix.  In  fact,  the  whole  native  camp  consisted  of  so 
many  clubs  of  two,  four,  six,  or  ten  men,  who  originally  belonged 
to  one  village  or  one  master,  or  were  united  by  some  other  family 
tie  which  they  preferred  keeping  intact ; so  they  cooked  togeth- 
er, ate  together,  slept  together,  and  sometimes  mutinied  together. 
The  amalgamation  having  failed,  I wrote  some  emancipation 
tickets,  called  the  sultan’s  men  all  up  together,  selected  the  best, 
gave  them  these  tickets,  announced  that  their  pay  and  all  rewards 
would  be  placed  for  the  future  on  the  same  conditions  as  those 
of  the  Wanguana,  and  as  soon  as  I saw  any  signs  of  improvement 


UZARAMO. 


58 


Oct.] 

in  the  rest,  they  would  all  be  treated  in  the  same  manner ; but, 
should  they  desert,  they  would  find  my  arm  long  enough  to  ar- 
rest them  on  the  coast  and  put  them  into  prison. 

During  this  march  we  crossed  three  deep  nullahs  which  drain 
To  Makutaniro,  the  Uzaramo  plateau,  and  arrived  at  the  Makutaniro, 
mh ■ or  junction  of  this  line  with  those  of  Mboamaji  and 

Konduchi,  which  traverse  central  Uzaramo,  and  which,  on  my 
former  return  journey,  I went  down.  The  gum-copal  diggings 
here  cease.  The  dum  palm  is  left  behind ; the  large,  rich  green- 
leaved trees  of  the  low  plateau  give  place  to  the  mimosa;  and 
now,  having  ascended  the  greater  decline  of  the  Kingani  Eiver, 
instead  of  being  confined  by  a bank,  we  found  ourselves  on  flat, 
open  park-land,  where  antelopes  roam  at  large,  buffalo  and  zebra 
are  sometimes  met  with,  and  Guinea-fowl  are  numerous.  The 
water  for  the  camp  is  found  in  the  river,  but  supplies  of  grain 
come  from  the  village  of  Kipora  farther  on. 

A march  through  the  park  took  us  to  a camp  by  a pond,  from 
to  Matamombo  which,  by  crossing  the  Kingani,  rice  and  provisions 
mh ■ for  the  men  were  obtained  on  the  opposite  bank. 

One  can  seldom  afford  to  follow  wild  animals  on  the  line  of  march, 
otherwise  we  might  have  bagged  some  antelopes  to-day,  which, 
scared  by  the  interminable  singing,  shouting,  bell-jingling,  horn- 
blowing, and  other  such  merry  noises  of  the  moving  caravan,  could 
be  seen  disappearing  in  the  distance. 

Leaving  the  park,  we  now  entered  the  richest  part  of  Uzaramo, 
to  D<5ge  ia  Mho-  affording  crops  as  fine  as  any  part  of  India.  Here  it 
ra,  mh.  was,  jn  tpe  0f  Dbge  la  Mhora,  that  the  first 

expedition  to  this  country,  guided  by  a Frenchman,  M.  Maizan, 
came  to  a fatal  termination,  that  gentleman  having  been  barbar- 
ously murdered  by  the  sub-chief  Hembd.  The  cause  of  the  affair 
was  distinctly  explained  to  me  by  Hembe  himself,  who,  with  his 
cousin  Darunga,  came  to  call  upon  me,  presuming,  as  he  was  not 
maltreated  by  the  last  expedition,  that  the  matter  would  now  be 
forgotten.  The  two  men  were  very  great  friends  of  the  little 
sheikh,  and  as  a present  was  expected,  which  I should  have  to 
pay,  we  all  talked  cheerfully  and  confidentially,  bringing  in  the 
fate  of  Maizan  for  no  other  reason  than  to  satisfy  curiosity. 
Hembe,  who  lives  in  the  centre  of  an  almost  impenetrable  thicket, 
confessed  that  he  was  the  murderer,  but  said  the  fault  did  not  rest 
with  him,  as  he  merely  carried  out  the  instructions  of  his  father, 
Mzungdra,  who,  a diwan  on  the  coast,  sent  him  a letter  directing 


54 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


his  actions.  Thus  it  is  proved  that  the  plot  against  Maizan  was 
concocted  on  the  coast  by  the  Arab  merchants — most  likely  from 
the  same  motive  which  has  induced  one  rival  merchant  to  kill 
another  as  the  best  means  of  checking  rivalry  or  competition. 
When  Arabs — and  they  are  the  only  class  of  people  who  would 
do  such  a deed — found  a European  going  into  the  very  middle 
of  their  secret  trading-places,. where  such  large  profits  were  to  be 
obtained,  they  would  never  suppose  that  the  scientific  Maizan 
went  for  any  other  purpose  than  to  pry  into  their  ivory  stores, 
bring  others  into  the  field  after  him,  and  destroy  their  monopoly. 
The  Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  in  those  days,  was  our  old  ally  Said  Said, 
commonly  called  the  Imam  of  Muscat;  and  our  consul,  Colonel 
Hamerton,  had  been  M.  Maizan’s  host  as  long  as  he  lived  upon 
the  coast.  Both  the  imam  and  consul  were  desirous  of  seeing  the 
country  surveyed,  and  did  every  thing  in  their  power  to  assist 
Maizan,  the  former  even  appointing  the  Indian  Musa  to  conduct 
him  safely  as  far  as  Unyamuezi;  but  their  power  was  not  found 
sufficient  to  damp  the  raging  fire  of  jealousy  in  the  ivory-trader’s 
heart.  Musa  commenced  the  journey  with  Maizan,  and  they 
traveled  together  a march  or  two,  when  one  of  Maizan’s  domestic 
establishment  fell  sick  and  stopped  his  progress.  Musa  remained 
with  him  eight  or  ten  days,  to  his  own  loss  in  trade  and  expense 
in  keeping  up  a large  establishment,  and  then  they  parted  by  mu- 
tual consent,  Maizan  thinking  himself  quite  strong  enough  to  take 
care  of  himself.  This  separation  was,  I believe,  poor  Maizan’s 
death-blow.  His  power,  on  the  imam’s  side,  went  with  Musa’s 
going,  and  left  the  Arabs  free  to  carry  out  their  wicked  wills. 

The  presents  I had  to  give  here  were  one  sahari  and  eight  yards 
merikani  to  Hembe,  and  the  same  to  Daranga,  for  which  they 
gave  a return  in  grain. 

Still  following  close  to  the  river  — which,  unfortunately,  is  so 
To  Kidunda,  enshrouded  with  thick  bush  that  we  could  seldom  see' 
it — a few  of  the  last  villages  in  Uzaramo  were  passed. 
Here  antelopes  reappear  among  the  tall  mimosa,  but  we  let  them 
alone  in  prosecution  of  the  survey,  and  finally  encamped  opposite 
the  little  hill  of  Kidunda,  which,  lying  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Kingani,  stretches  north,  a little  east,  into  Uzegura.  The  hill 
crops  out  through  pisolitic  limestone,  in  which  marine  fossils  were 
observable.  It  would  be  interesting  to  ascertain  whether  this 
lime  formation  extends  down  the  east  coast  of  Africa  from  the 
Somali  country,  where  also,  on  my  first  expedition,  I found  marine 


Oct.] 


UZAEAMO. 


55 


shells  in  the  limestone,  especially  as  a vast  continuous  band  of 
limestone  is  known  to  extend  from  the  Tagus,  through  Egypt 
and  the  Somali  country,  to  the  Burrampootra.  To  obtain  food, 
it  was  necessary  here  to  ferry  the  river  and  purchase  from  the 
Wazaramo,  who,  from  fear  of  the  passing  caravans,  had  left  their 
own  bank  and  formed  a settlement  immediately  under  this  pretty 
little  hill — rendered  all  the  more  enchanting  to  our  eyes  as  it  was 
the  first  we  had  met  since  leaving  the  sea-coast.  The  diwan,  or 
head  man,  was  a very  civil  creature ; he  presented  us  freely  with 
two  fine  goats — a thing  at  that  time  we  were  very  much  in  want 
of — and  took,  in  return,  without  any  comments,  one  dubuani  and 
eight  yards  merikani. 

The  next  day,  as  we  had  no  farther  need  of  our  Beluch  escort, 
a halt  was  made  to  enable  me  to  draw  up  a “ Progress 

Halt,  15(7).  i,  a . . • p , , . 

Report,  and  pack  all  the  specimens  of  natural  his- 
tory collected  on  the  way  for  the  Royal  Geographical  Society. 
Captain  Grant,  taking  advantage  of  the  spare  time,  killed  for  the 
larder  two  buck  antelopes,*  and  the  Tots  brought  in,  in  high  ex- 
cited triumph,  a famous  pig. 

This  march,  which  declines  from  the  Kingani  a little,  leads 
To  the  MgSta  through  rolling,  jungly  ground,  full  of  game,  to  the 

iiiver,  i6th.  tributary  stream  Mgeta.  It  is  fordable  in  the  dry 

season,  but  has  to  be  bridged  by  throwing  a tree  across  it  in  the 
wet  one.  Rising  in  the  Usagara  Hills  to  the  west  of  the  hog- 
backed  Mkambaku,  this  branch  intersects  the  province  of  Ukhutu 
in  the  centre,  and  circles  round  until  it  unites  with  the  Kingani 
about  four  miles  north  of  the  ford.  Where  the  Kingani  itself 
rises  I never  could  find  out,  though  I have  heard  that  its  source 
lies  in  a gurgling  spring  on  the  eastern  face  of  the  Mkambaku, 
by  which  account  the  Mgeta  is  made  the  longer  branch  of  the  two. 

* See  Game  List,  Appendix  C. 


56 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


CHAPTER  III. 


USAGARA. 


Nature  of  the  Country. — Resumption  of  the  March. — A Hunt. — Bombay  and  Baraka. 
The  Slave-hunters. — The  Ivory-merchants. — Collection  of  Natural-history  Spec- 
imens.—A frightened  Village.— Tracking  a Mule. 


Under  U-Sagara,  or,  as  it  might  be  interpreted,  U-sa-Gara — 
country  of  Gara— is  included  all  the  country  lying  between  the 

bifurcation  of  the  Kingani  and  Mgd- 
ta  Rivers  east,  and  Ugogo,  the  first 
country  on  the  interior  plateau  west, 
a distance  of  a hundred  miles.  On 
the  north  it  is  bounded  by  the  Mii- 
kondokiia,  or  upper  course  of  the 
Wami  River,  and  on  the  south  by 
the  Ruaha,  or  northern  great  branch 
of  the  Lhfiji  River.  It  forms  a link 
of  the  great  East  Coast  Range ; but, 
though  it  is  generally  comprehend- 
ed under  the  single  name  Usagara, 
many  sub-tribes  occupy  and  apply 
their  own  names  to  portions  of  it; 
as,  for  instance,  the  people  on  whose 
ground  we  now  stood  at  the  foot 

Msagara,  or  Native  of  Usagara.  of  the  llllls  are  W U-I\.hutU.,  and 

their  possessions  consequently  are 
U-Khutu,  which  is  by  far  the  best  producing  land  hitherto  alluded 
to  since  leaving  the  sea-coast  line.  Our  ascent  by  the  river,  though 
quite  imperceptible  to  the  eye,  has  been  500  feet.  From  this  level 
the  range  before  us  rises  in  some  places  to  5000  or  6000  feet,  not 
as  one  grand  mountain,  but  in  two  detached  lines,  lying  at  an 
angle  of  45°  from  N.E.  to  S.  W.,  and  separated  one  from  the  other 
by  elevated  valleys,  tables,  and  crab-claw  spurs  of  hill  which  in- 
cline toward  the  flanking  rivers.  The  whole,  having  been  thrown 
up  by  volcanic  action,  is  based  on  a strong  foundation  of  granite 
and  other  igneous  rocks,  which  are  exposed  in  man}r  places  in  the 


Oct.] 


USAGARA. 


57 


shape  of  massive  blocks;  otherwise  the  hill-range  is  covered  in 
the  upper  part  with  sandstone,  and  in  the  bottoms  with  alluvial 
clay.  This  is  the  superficial  configuration  of  the  land  as  it  strikes 
the  eye  ; but,  knowing  the  elevation  of  the  interior  plateau  to  be 
only  2500  feet  above  the  sea  immediately  on  the  western  flank 
of  these  hills,  while  the  breadth  of  the  chain  is  100  miles,  the 
mean  slope  or  incline  of  the  basal  surface  must  be  on  a gradual 
rise  of  twenty  feet  per  mile.  The  hill  tops  and  sides,  where  not 
cultivated,  are  well  covered  with  bush  and  small  trees,  among 
which  the  bamboo  is  conspicuous;  while  the  bottoms,  having  a 
soil  deeper  and  richer,  produce  fine  large  fig-trees  of  exceeding- 
beauty,  the  huge  calabash,  and  a variety  of  other  trees.  Here,  in 
certain  places  where  water  is  obtainable  throughout  the  year,  and 
wars,  or  slave-hunts  more  properly  speaking,  do  not  disturb  the 
industry  of  the  people,  cultivation  thrives  surprisingly ; but  such 
a boon  is  rarely  granted  them.  It  is  in  consequence  of  these  con- 
stantly-recurring troubles  that  the  majority  of  the  Wasagara  vil- 
lages are  built  on  hill-spurs,  where  the  people  can  the  better  resist 
attack,  or,  failing,  disperse  and  hide  effectually.  The  normal  hab- 
itation is  the  small  conical  hut  of  grass.  These  compose  villages, 
varying  in  number  according  to  the  influence  of  their  head  men. 
There  are,  however,  a few  mud  villages  on  the  table-lands,  each 
built  in  a large  irregular  square  of  chambers,  with  a hollow  yard 
in  the  centre,  known  as  tembe. 

As  to  the  people  of  these  uplands,  poor,  meagre-looking  wretch- 
es, they  contrast  unfavorably  with  the  lowlanders  on  both  sides 
of  them.  Dingy  in  color,  spiritless,  shy,  and  timid,  they  invite 
attack  in  a country  where  every  human  being  has  a market  value, 
and  are  little  seen  by  the  passing  caravan.  In  habits  they  are 
semi-pastoral  agriculturists,  and  would  be  useful  members  of  so- 
ciety were  they  left  alone  to  cultivate  their  own  possessions,  rich 
and  beautiful  by  nature,  but  poor  and  desolate  by  force  of  cir- 
cumstance. Some  of  the  men  can  afford  a cloth,  but  the  greater 
part  wear  an  article  which  I can  only  describe  as  a grass  kilt.  In 
one  or  two  places  throughout  the  passage  of  these  hills  a caravan 
may  be  taxed,  but  if  so,  only  to  a small  amount;  the  villagers 
more  frequently  fly  to  the  hill-tops  as  soon  as  the  noise  of  the  ad- 
vancing caravan  is  heard,  and  no  persuasions  will  bring  them 
down  again,  so  much  ground  have  they,  from  previous  experi- 
ence, to  fear  treachery.  It  is  such  sad  sights,  and  the  obvious 
want  of  peace  and  prosperity,  that  weary  the  traveler,  and  make 


58  the  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [I860. 

him  ever  think  of  pushing  on  to  his  journey’s  end  from  the  instant 
he  enters  Africa  until  he  quits  the  country. 

Knowing  by  old  experience  that  the  beautiful  green  park  in 
iiait,  11th  and  the  fork  °f  these  rivers  abounded  in  game  of  great 
13e/‘ ■ variety  and  in  vast  herds,  where  no  men  are  ever 

seen  except  some  savage  hunters  sitting  in  the  trees  with  poison- 
ed arrows,  or  watching  their  snares  and  pitfalls,  I had  all  along- 
determined  on  a hunt  myself,  to  feed  and  cheer  the  men,  and  also 
to  collect  some  specimens  for  the  home  museums.  In  the  first 
object  we  succeeded  well,  as  “the  bags”  we  made  counted  two 
brindled  gnu,  four  water-boc,  one  pallah-boc,  and  one  pig — enough 
to  feed  abundantly  the  whole  camp  round.  The  feast  was  all  the 
better  relished  as  the  men  knew  well  that  no  Arab  master  would 
have  given  them  what  he  could  sell ; for  if  a slave  shot  game,  the 
animals  would  be  the  master’s,  to  be  sold  bit  by  bit  among  the 
porters,  and  compensated  from  the  proceeds  of  their  pay.  In  the 
variety  and  number  of  our  game  we  were  disappointed,  partly  be- 
cause so  many  wounded  got  away,  and  partly  because  we  could 
not  find  what  we  knew  the  park  to  contain,  in  addition  to  what 
we  killed — namely,  elephants,  rhinoceros,  giraffes,  buffaloes,  zebra, 
and  many  varieties  of  antelopes,  besides  lions  and  hyenas.  In 
fact,  “ the  park,”  as  well  as  all  the  adjacent  land  at  the  foot  of  the 
hills,  is  worth  thinking  of,  with  a view  to  a sporting  tour  as  well 
\as  scientific  investigation. 

A circumstance  arose  here,  which,  insignificant  though  it  ap- 
peared, is  worth  noting,  to  show  how  careful  one  must  be  in  un- 
derstanding and  dealing  with  negro  servants.  Quite  unaccount- 
ably to  myself,  the  general  of  my  Wan  guana,  Baraka,  after  show- 
ing much  discontent  with  his  position  as  head,  of  Captain  Grant’s 
establishment,  became  so  insolent  that  it  was  necessary  to  displace 
him,  and  leave  him  nothing  to  do  but  look  after  the  men.  This 
promoted  Frij,  who  enjoyed  his  rise  as  much  as  Baraka,  if  his  pro- 
fession was  to  be  believed,  enjoyed  his  removal  from  that  office. 
Though  he  spoke  in  this  manner,  still  I knew  that  there  was 
something  rankling  in  his  mind  which  depressed  his  spirits  as 
long  as  he  remained  with  us,  though  what  it  was  I could  not  com- 
prehend, nor  did  I fully  understand  it  till  months  afterward.  It 
was  ambition,  which  was  fast  making  a fiend  of  him ; and  had  I 
known  it,  he  would,  and  with  great  advantage  too,  have  been  dis- 
missed upon  the  spot.  The  facts  were  these : He  was  exceeding- 
ly clever,  and  he  knew  it.  His  command  over  men  was  surpris- 


Oct.] 


USAGARA. 


59 


ing.  At  Zanzibar  be  was  tbe  consul’s  rigbt-band  man : he  rank- 
ed above  Bombay  in  tbe  consular  boat’s  crew,  and  became  a ter- 
ror even  to  tbe  Banyans  who  kept  slaves.  He  seemed,  in  fact,  in 
bis  own  opinion,  to  have  imbibed  all  tbe  power  of  tbe  British  con- 
sul who  bad  instructed  him.  Such  a man  was  an  element  of  dis- 
cord in  our  peaceful  caravan.  He  was  far  too  big-minded  for  tbe 
sphere  which  be  occupied ; and  my  surprise  now  is  that  be  ever 
took  service,  knowing  what  be  should,  at  tbe  time  of  enlistment, 
have  expected,  that  no  man  would  be  degraded  to  make  room  for 
him.  But  this  was  evidently  what  be  bad  expected,  though  be 
dared  not  say  it.  He  was  jealous  of  Bombay,  because  lie  thought 
bis  position  over  tbe  money  department  was  superior  to  bis  own 
over  tbe  men  ; and  be  had  seen  Bombay,  on  one  occasion,  pay  a 
tax  inUzaramo — a transaction  which  would  give  him  consequence 
with  tbe  native  chiefs.  Of  Sheikh  Said  be  was  equally  jealous, 
for  a like  reason;  and  bis  jealousy  increased  tbe  more  that  I 
found  it  necessary  to  censure  tbe  timidity  of  this  otherwise  worthy 
little  man.  Baraka  thought,  in  bis  conceit,  that  be  could  have 
done  all  things  better,  and  gained  signal  fame,  bad  be  been  cre- 
ated chief.  Perhaps  be  thought  be  bad  gained  tbe  first  step  to- 
ward this  exalted  rank,  and  hence  bis  appearing  very  happy  for 
tbe  time.  I could  not  see  through  so  deep  a scheme,  and  only 
hoped  that  be  would  shortly  forget,  in  the  changes  of  the  march- 
ing life,  those  beautiful  wives  be  bad  left  behind  him,  which  Bom- 
bay in  his  generosity  tried  to  persuade  me  was  the  cause  of  his 
mental  distraction. 

Our  halt  at  the  ford  here  was  cut  short  by  the  increasing  sick- 
ToKiruru  mh  ness  °f  the  Hottentots,  and  the  painful  fact  that  Cap- 
and  20Wi ‘ tain  Grant  was  seized  with  fever.*  We  had  to  change 

camp  to  the  little  village  of  Kiruru,  where,  as  rice  was  grown — 
an  article  not  to  be  procured  again  on  this  side  of  Unyamuezi — 
we  stopped  a day  to  lay  in  supplies  of  this  most  valuable  of  all 
traveling  food.  Here  I obtained  the  most  consistent  accounts  of 
the  river  system,  which,  within  five  days’ journey,  trends  through 
Uzegura ; and  I concluded,  from  what  I heard,  that  there  is  no 
doubt  of  the  Mukondokua  and  Wami  Bivers  being  one  and  the 
same  stream.  My  informants  were  the  natives  of  the  settlement, 
and  they  all  concurred  in  saying  that  the  Kingani  above  the 

* It  was  such  an  attack  as  I had  on  my  former  journey ; but,  while  mine  ceased 
to  trouble  me'after  the  first  year,  his  kept  recurring  every  fortnight  until  the  journey 
ended. 


60 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE- 


[1860. 


junction  is  called  the  Rufu,  meaning  the  parent  stream.  Beyond 
it,  following  under  the  line  of  hills,  at  one  days’ journey  distant, 
there  is  a smaller  river  called  Msongd  At  an  equal  distance  be- 
yond it,  another  of  the  same  size  is  known  as  Lungerengdri ; and 
a fourth  river  is  the  Wami,  which  mouths  in  the  sea  at  Utondue, 
between  the  ports  of  Whindi  and  Saadani.  In  former  years,  the 
ivory-merchants,  ever  seeking  for  an  easy  road  for  their  trade, 
and  knowing  they  would  have  no  hills  to  climb  if  they  could 
only  gain  a clear  passage  by  this  river  from  the  interior  plateau 
to  the  sea,  made  friends  with  the  native  chiefs  of  Uzegura,  and 
succeeded  in  establishing  it  as  a thoroughfare.  Avarice,  howev- 
er, that  fatal  enemy  to  the  negro  chiefs,  made  them  overreach 
themselves  by  exorbitant  demands  of  taxes.  Then  followed  con- 
tests for  the  right  of  appropriating  the  taxes,  and  the  whole  end- 
ed in  the  closing  of  the  road,  which  both  parties  were  equally 
anxious  to  keep  open  for  their  mutual  ggin.  This  foolish  disrup- 
tion having  at  first  only  lasted  for  a while,  the  road  was  again 
opened  and  again  closed,  for  the  merchants  wanted  an  easy  pas- 
sage, and  the  native  chiefs  desired  cloths.  But  it  was  shut  again ; 
and  now  we  heard  of  its  being  for  a third  time  opened,  with  what 
success  the  future  only  can  determine,  for-experience  wiU-uoi.^ 
teach  the  negro,  who  thinks  only  for  the  moment.  Had  they 
only  sense  to  see,  and  patience  to  wait,  the  whole  trade  of  the  in- 
terior would  inevitably  pass  through  their  country  instead  of 
Uzaramo ; and  instead  of  being  poor  in  cloths,  they  would  be  rich 
and  well  dressed  like  their  neighbors.  But  the  curse  of  Noah 
sticks  to  these  his  grandchildren  by  Ham,  and  no  remedy  that 
has  yet  been  found  will  relieve  them.  They  require  a govern- 
ment like  ours  in  India ; and  without  it,  the  slave-trade  will  wipe 
hem  off  the  face  of  the  earth. 

Now  leaving  the  open  parks  of  pretty  acacias,  we  followed  up 
to  Duthumi,  the  Mgazi  branch  of  the  Mgeta,  traversed  large  tree- 
jungles,  where  the  tall  palm  is  conspicuous,  and  drew 
up  under  the  lumpy  Mkambaku,  to  find  a residence  for  the  day. 

II  ere  an  Arab  merchant,  Kharnis,  bound  for  Zanzibar,  obliged  us 
by  agreeing  for  a few  dollars  to  convey  our  recent  spoils  in  nat- 
ural history  to  the  coast. 

My  plans  for  the  present  were  to  reach  Zungomero  as  soon  as 
To  Hozu  22  / possible,  as  a few  days’  halt  would  be  required  there 
to  fix  the  longitude  of  the  eastern  flank  of  the  East 
Coast  Range  by  astronomical  observation ; but,  on  ordering  the 


Oct.] 


USAGARA. 


61 


morning’s  march,  the  porters — too  well  fed  and  lazy — thought 
our  marching-rate  much  too  severe,  and  resolutely  refused  to 
move.  They  ought  to  have  made  ten  miles  a day,  but  preferred 
doing  five.  Argument  was  useless,  and  I was  reluctant  to  apply 
the  stick,  as  the  Arabs  would  have  done  when  they  saw  their  por- 
ters trifling  with  their  pockets.  Determining,  however,  not  to  be 
frustrated  in  this  puerile  manner,  I ordered  the  bugler  to  sound 
the  march,  and  started  with  the  mules  and  coast-men,  trusting  to 
Sheikh  and  Baraka  to  bring  on  the  Wanyamuezi  as  soon  as  they 
could  move  them.  The  same  day  we  crossed  the  Mgazi,  where 
we  found  several  Wakhutu  spearing  fish  in  the  muddy  hovers  of 
its  banks. 

We  slept  under  a tree,  and  this  morning  found  a comfortable 

residence  under  the  eaves  of  a capacious  hut.  The 

Zungomero,  233. 

Wanyamuezi  porters  next  came  m at  their  own  time, 
and  proved  to  us  how  little  worth  are  orders  in  a land  where  ev- 
ery man,  in  his  own  opinion,  is  a lord,  and  no  laws  prevail.  Zun- 
gomero,  bisected  by  the  Mgeta,  lies  on  flat  ground,  in  a very  pret- 
ty amphitheatre  of  hills,  S.  lat.  7°  26'  53",  and  E.  long.  37°  36' 


Mkumbaku  Hill,  viewed  from  Zungomero. 


45".  It  is  extremely  fertile,  and  very  populous,  affording  every 
thing  that  man  can  wish,  even  to  the  cocoa  and  papwa  fruits ; but 
the  slave-trade  has  almost  depopulated  it,  and  turned  its  once 
flourishing  gardens  into  jungles.  As  I have  already  said,  the 
people  who  possess  these  lands  are  cowardly  by  nature,  and  that 
is  the  reason  why  they  are  so  muck  oppressed.  The  Wasuahili, 
taking  advantage  of  their  timidity,  flock  here  in  numbers  to  live 


62 


TIIE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


upon  the  fruits  of  their  labors.  The  merchants  on  the  coast,  too, 
though  prohibited  by  their  sultan  from  interfering  with  the  nat- 
ural course  of  trade,  send  their  hungry  slaves,  as  touters,  to  entice 
all  approaching  caravans  to  trade  with  their  particular  ports,  au- 
thorizing the  touters  to  pay  such  premiums  as  may  be  necessary 
for  the  purpose.  Where  they  came  from  we  could  not  ascertain  ; 
but  during  our  residence,  a large  party  of  the  Wasuahili  marched 
past,  bound  for  the  coast,  with  one  hundred  head  of  cattle,  fifty 
slaves  in  chains,  and  as  many  goats.  Halts  always  end  disastrous- 
ly in  Africa,  giving  men  time  for  mischief;  and  here  was  an  ex- 
ample of  it.  During  the  target-practice,  which  was  always  insti- 
tuted on  such  occasions  to  give  confidence  to  our  men,  the  little 
pepper-box  Rahan,  my  head  valet,  challenged  a comrade  to  a duel 
with  carbines.  Being  stopped  by  those  around  him,  he  vented 
his  wrath  in  terrible  oaths,  and  swung  about  his  arms,  until  his 
gun  accidentally  went  off,  and  blew  his  middle  finger  off. 

Baraka  next,  with  a kind  of  natural  influence  of  affinity  ‘when 
a row  is  commenced,  made  himself  so  offensive  to  Bombay  as 
to  send  him  running  to  me  so  agitated  with  excitement  that  I 
thought  him  drunk.  He  seized  my  hands,  cried,  and  implored 
me  to  turn  him  off.  What  could  this  mean?  I could  not  di- 
vine ; neither  could  he  explain,  farther  than  that  he  had  come  to 
a determination  that  I must  send  either  him  or  Baraka  to  the 
right-about;  and  his  first  idea  was  that  he,  and  not  Baraka, 
should  be  the  victim.  Baraka’s  jealousy  about  his  position  had 
not  struck  me  yet.  I called  them  both  together,  and  asked  what 
quarrel  they  had,  but  could  not  extract  the  truth.  Baraka  pro- 
tested that  he  had  never  given,  either  by  word  or  deed,  the  slight- 
est cause  of  rupture ; he  only  desired  the  prosperity  of  the  march, 
and  that  peace  should  reign  throughout  the  camp ; but  Bomba}r 
was  suspicious  of  him,  and  malignantly  abused  him,  for  what  rea- 
son Baraka  could  not  tell.  When  I spoke  of  this  to  Bombay, 
like  a bird  fascinated  by  the  eye  of  a viper,  he  shrank  before  the 
slippery  tongue  of  his  opponent,  and  could  only  say,  “ No,  Sahib 
-—oh  no,  that  is  not  it;  you  had  better  turn  me  off,  for  his  tongue 
is  so  long,  and  mine  so  short,  you  never  will  believe  me.”  I tried 
to  make  them  friends,  hoping  it  was  merely  a passing  ill  wind 
which  would  soon  blow  over;  but  before  long  the  two  disputants 
were  tonguing  it  again,  and  I distinctly  heard  Bombay  ordering 
Baraka  out  of  camp,  as  he  could  not  keep  from  intermeddling, 
saying,  which  was  true,  he  had  invited  him  to  join  the  expedi- 


Oct.] 


USAGARA. 


63 


tiou,  that  his  knowledge  of  Hindustani  might  be  useful  to  us;  he 
was  not  wanted  for  any  other  purpose,  and  unless  he  was  satisfied 
with  doing  that  alone,  we  would  get  on  much  better  without  him. 
To  this  provocation  Baraka  mildly  made  the  retort,  “ Pray  don’t 
put  yourself  in  a passion ; nobody  is  hurting  }mit ; it  is  all  in 
your  own  heart,  which  is  full  of  suspicions  and  jealousy  without 
the  slightest  cause.” 

This  complicated  matters  more  than  ever.  I knew  Bombay  to 
be  a generous,  honest  man,  entitled  by  his  former  services  to  be 
in  the  position  he  was  now  holding  as  fundi,  or  supervisor  in  the 
camp.  Baraka,  who  never  would  have  joined  the  expedition  ex- 
cepting through  his  invitation,  was  indebted  to  him  for  the  rank 
he  now  enjoyed — a command  over  seventy  men,  a duty  in  which 
he  might  have  distinguished  himself  as  a most  useful  accessory 
to  the  camp.  Again  I called  the  two  together,  and  begged  them 
to  act  in  harmony  like  brothers,  noticing  that  there  was  no  cause 
for  entertaining  jealousy  on  either  side,  as  every  order  rested  with 
myself  to  reward  for  merit  or  to  punish.  The  relative  position 
in  the  camp  was  like  that  of  the  senior  officers  in  India,  Bombay 
representing  the  Mulki  lord,  or  governor  general,  and  Baraka  the 
Jungi  lord,  or  commander-in-chief.  To  the  influence  of  this  dis- 
tinguished comparison  they  both  gave  way,  acknowledging  my- 
self their  judge,  and  both  protesting  that  they  wished  to  serve  in 
peace  and  quietness  for  the  benefit  of  the  march. 

Zungomero  is  a terminus  or  junction  of  two  roads  leading  to 
the  interior — one,  the  northern,  crossing  over  the  Gfoma  Pass,  and 
trenching  on  the  Mukondokiia  River,  and  the  other  crossing  over 
the  Mabruki  Pass,  and  edging  on  the  Riiaha  River.  They  both 
unite  again  at  Ugogi,  the  western  terminus  on  the  present  great 
Unyamuezi  line.  On  the  former  expedition  I went  by  the  north- 
ern line  and  returned  by  the  southern,  finding  both  equally  easy, 
and,  indeed,  neither  is  worthy  of  special  and  permanent  prefer- 
ence. In  fact,  every  season  makes  a difference  in  the  supply  of 
water  and  provisions ; and  with  every  year,  owing  to  incessant 
wars,  or  rather  slave-hunts,  the  habitations  of  the  wretched  in- 
habitants become  constantly  changed — generally  speaking,  for  the 
worse.  Our  first  and  last  object,  therefore,  as  might  be  supposed, 
from  kijowing  these  circumstances,  was  to  ascertain,  before  mount- 
ing the  hill-range,  which  route  would  afford  us  the  best  facilities 
for  a speedy  march  now.  No  one,  however,  could  or  would  ad- 
vise us.  The  whole  country  on  ahead,  especially  Ugogo,  was  op- 


64 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


pressed  by  drought  and  famine.  To  avoid  this  latter  country, 
then,  we  selected  the  southern  route,  as  by  doing  so  it  was  hoped 
we  might  follow  the  course  of  the  Ruaha  River  from  Maroro  to 
Usenga  and  Usanga,  and  thence  strike  across  to  Unyanyembd, 
sweeping  clear  of  Ugogo. 

With  this  determination,  after  dispatching  a third  set  of  speci- 
to  Kirengue,  mens,  consisting  of  large  game  animals,  birds,  snakes, 
'nth-  insects,  land  and  fresh-water  shells,  and  a few  rock 

specimens,  of  which  one  was  fossiliferous,  we  turned  southward, 
penetrating  the  forests  which  lie  between  the  greater  range  and 
the  little  outlying  one.  At  the  foot  of  this  is  the  Maji  ya  Wheta, 
a hot,  deep-seated  spring  of  fresh  water,  which  bubbles  up  through 
many  apertures  in  a large,  dome-shaped  heap  of  soft  lime — an  ac- 
cumulation obviously  thrown  up  by  the  force  of  the  spring,  as  the 
rocks  on  either  side  of  it  are  of  igneous  character.  We  arrived 
at  the  deserted  village  of  Kirengue.  This. was  not  an  easy  go- 
ahead  march,  for  the  halt  had  disaffected  both  men  and  mules. 
Three  of  the  former  bolted,  leaving  their  loads  upon  the  ground ; 
and  on  the  line  of  march,  one  of  the  mules,  a full-conditioned  ani- 
mal, gave  up  the  ghost  after  an  eighteen  hours’  sickness.  What 
his  disease  was  I never  could  ascertain ; but,  as  all  the  remaining 
animals  died  afterward  much  in  the  same  manner,  I may  state  for 
once  and  for  all,  that  these  attacks  commenced  with  general  swell- 
ing, at  first  on  the  face,  then  down  the  neck,  along  the  belly,  and 
down  the  legs.  It  proved  so  obstinate  that  fire  had  no  effect 
upon  it ; and  although  we  cut  off  the  tails  of  some  to  relieve  them 
by  bleeding,  still  they  died. 

In  former  days  Kirengue  was  inhabited,  and  we  reasonably 
hoped  to  find  some  supplies  for  the  jungly  march  be- 
fore us.  But  we  had  calculated  without  our  host,  for 
the  slave-hunters  had  driven  every  vestige  of  humanity  away ; 
and  now,  as  we  were  delayed  by  our  three  loads  behind,  there 
was  nothing  left  but  to  send  back  and  purchase  more  grain. 
Such  was  one  of  the  many  days  frittered  away  in  do-nothingness. 

This  day,  all  together  again,  we  rose  the  first  spurs  of  the  well- 

„ „„ , wooded  Usagara  Hills,  among  which  the  familiar 

bamboo  was  plentiful,  and  at  night  we  bivouacked 
in  the  jungle. 

Rising  betimes  in  the  morning,  and  starting  with  a good  will, 
to  e.  Mbuiga,  we  soon  reached  the  first  settlements  of  Mbuiga,  from 
which  could  be  seen  a curious  blue  mountain,  stand- 


Halt,  28 th. 


mn. 


Oct.] 


USAGAEA. 


65 


ing  up  like  a giant  overlooking  all  the  rest  of  the  hills.  The 
scenery  here  formed  a strong  and  very  pleasing  contrast  to  any 
we  had  seen  since  leaving  the  coast.  Emigrant  Waziraha,  who 
had  been  driven  from  their  homes  across  the  Kingani  Eiver  by  the 


Hill  View  from  Eastern  Mbuiga. 


slave-hunters,  had  taken  possession  of  the  place,  and  disposed  their 
little  conical-hut  villages  on  the  heights  of  the  hill-spurs  in  such 
a picturesque  manner  that  one  could  not  help  hoping  they  would 
here  at  least  be  allowed  to  rest  in  peace  and  quietness.  The  val- 
leys, watered  by  little  brooks,  are  far  richer,  and  even  prettier, 
than  the  high  lands  above,  being  lined  with  fine  trees  and  ever- 
green shrubs ; while  the  general  state  of  prosperity  was  such  that 
the  people  could  afford,  even  at  this  late  season  of  the  year,  to 
turn  their  corn  into  malt  to  brew  beer  for  sale ; and  goats  and 
fowls  were  plentiful  in  the  market. 

Passing  by  the  old  village  of  Mbuiga,  which  I occupied  on  my 
Tow.MBiga  former  expedition,  we  entered  some  huts  on  the  west- 
31sf-  ern  flank  of  the  Mbuiga  district;  and  here,  finding  a 

coast-man,  a great  friend  of  the  little  sheikh’s,  willing  to  take  back 
to  Zanzibar  any  thing  we  might  give  him,  a halt  was  made,  and 
I drew  up  my  reports.  I then  consigned  to  his  charge  three  of 
the  most  sickly  of  the  Hottentots  in  a deplorable  condition — one 
of  the  mules,  that  they  might  ride  by  turns — and  all  the  speci- 
mens that  had  been  collected.  With  regret  I also  sent  back  the 

E 


66 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[I860. 


camera,  because  I saw,  bad  I allowed  my  companion  to  keep 
working  it,  the  beat  be  was  subjected  to  in  tbe  little  tent  while 
preparing  and  fixing  bis  plates  would  very  soon  have  killed  liim. 
Tbe  number  of  Guinea-fowl  seen  bere  was  most  surprising. 

A little  lighter  and  much  more  comfortable  for  tbe  good  rid- 
dance of  those  grumbling  “ Tots,”  we  worked  up  to 

To  Kikobogo,  2<Z.  , D ..  , 

and  soon  breasted  the  stitt  ascent  ot  tbe  Mabruki 
Pass,  which  we  surmounted  without  much  difficulty.  This  con- 
cluded tbe  first  range  of  these  Usagara  Hills  ; and  once  over,  we 
dropped  down  to  tbe  elevated  valley  of  Maketa,  where  we  baited 
two  days  to  shoot.  As  a traveling  Arab  informed  me  that  tbe 
whole  of  tbe  Maroro  district  bad  been  laid  waste  by  tbe  maraud- 
ing Wahehe,  I changed  our  plans  again,  and  directed  our  atten- 
tion to  a middle  and  entirely  new  line,  which  in  tbe  end  would 
lead  us  to  Ugogi.  Tbe  first  and  only  giraffe  killed  upon  tbe 
journey  was  here  shot  by  Grant,  with  a little  40-gauge  Lancaster 
rifle,  at  200  yards’  distance.  Some  smaller  animals  were  killed ; 
but  I wasted  all  my  time  in  fruitlessly  stalking  some  wounded 
striped  eland — magnificent  animals,  as  large  as  Delhi  oxen — and 
some  other  animals,  of  which  I wounded  three,  about  the  size  of 
hartebeest,  and  much  their  shape,  only  cream-colored,  with  a con- 
spicuous black  spot  in  the  centre  of  each  flank.  The  eland  may 
probably  be  the  animal  first  mentioned  by  Livingstone,  but  the 
other  animal  is  not  known. 

Though  reluctant  to  leave  a place  where  such  rare  animals 

were  to  be  found,  the  fear  of  remaining  longer  on  the 

To  Ngoto,  5<7i.  , . t , 

road  induced  us  to  leave  Kikobogo,  and  at  a good 
stride  we  crossed  the  flat  valley  of  Makata,  and  ascended  the  high- 
er lands  beyond,  where  we  no  sooner  arrived  than  we  met  the 
last  down  trader  from  Unyamuezi,  well  known  to  all  my  men  as 
the  great  Mamba  or  Crocodile.  Mamba,  dressed  in  a dirty  Arab 
gown,  with  coronet  of  lion’s  nails  decorating  a threadbare  cutch 
cap,  greeted  us  with  all  the  dignity  of  a savage  potentate  surround- 
ed by  his  staff  of  half-naked  officials.  As  usual,  he  had  been  the 
last  to  leave  the  Unyamuezi,  and  so  purchased  all  his  stock  of 
ivory  at  a cheap  rate,  there  being  no  competitors  left  to  raise  the 
value  of  that  commodity;  but  his  journey  had  been  a very  try- 
ing one.  With  a party,  at  his  own  estimate,  of' two  thousand 
souls — we  did  not  see  any  thing  like  that  number — he  had  come 
from  Ugogo  to  this,  by  his  own  confession,  living  on  the  products 
of  the  jungle,  and  by  boiling  down  the  skin  aprons  of  his  porters 


Nov.] 


USAGARA. 


67 


occasionally  for  a soup.  Famines  were  raging  throughout  the 
land,  and  the  Arabs  preceding  him  had  so  harried  the  country 
that  every  yillage  was  deserted.  On  hearing  our  intention  to 
march  upon  the  direct  line,  he  frankly  said  he  thought  we  should 
never  get  through,  for  my  men  .could  not  travel  as  his  had  done, 
and  therefore  he  advised  our  deflecting  northward  from  New 
Mbumi  to  join  the  track  leading  from  Ru.mh.ma  to  Ugogi.  This 
was  a sad  disappointment;  but,  rather  than  risk  a failure,  I re- 
solved to  follow  his  advice. 

After  reaching  the  elevated  ground,  we  marched  over  rolling- 
tops,  covered  with  small  trees  and  a rich  variety  of 
M’yombo,  m pretty  bulbs,  and  reached  the  habitations  of  Muhanda, 
where  we  no  sooner  appeared  than  the  poor  villagers, 
accustomed  only  to  rough  handling,  immediately  dispersed  in  the 
jungles.  By  dint  of  persuasion,  however,  we  induced  them  to 
sell  us  provisions,  though  at  a monstrous  rate,  such  as  no  mer- 
chant could  have  afforded ; and  having  spent  the  night  quietly, 
we  proceeded  on  to  the  upper  courses  of  the  M’yombo  River, 
which  trends  its  way  northward  to  the  Mukondokua  River.  The 
scenery  was  most  interesting,  with  every  variety  of  hill,  roll,  pla- 
teau, and  ravine,  wild  and  prettily  wooded ; but  we  saw  nothing 
of  the  people.  Like  frightened  rats,  as  soon  as  they  caught  the 
sound  of  our  advancing  march,  they  buried  themselves  in  the  jun- 
gles, carrying  off  their  grain  with  them.  Foraging  parties,  of  ne- 
cessity, were  sent  out  as  soon  as  the  camp  was  pitched,  with  cloth 
for  purchases,  and  strict  orders  not  to  use  force ; the  upshot  of 
which  was,  that  my  people  got  nothing  but  a few  arrows  fired  at 
them  by  the  lurking  villagers,  and  I was  abused  for  my  squeam- 
ishness. Moreover,  the  villagers,  emboldened  by  my  lenity, 
vauntingly  declared  they  would  attack  the  camp  by  night,  as  they 
could  only  recognize  in  us  such  men  as  plunder  their  houses  and 
steal  their  children.  This  caused  a certain  amount  of  alarm 
among  my  men,  which  induced  them  to  run  up  a stiff  bush  fence 
round  the  camp,  and  kept  them  talking  all  night. 

This  morning  we  marched  on  as  usual,  with  one  of  the  Hotten- 
to  New  Mbumi,  tots  lashed  on  a donkey ; for  the  wretched  creature, 
aft^r  lying  in  the  sun  asleep,  became  so  sickly  that  he 
could  not  move  or  do  any  thing  for  himself,  and  nobody  else 
would  do  any  thing  for  him.  The  march  was  a long  one,  but  un- 
der ordinary  circumstances  would  have  been  very  interesting,  for 
we  passed  an  immense  lagoon,  where  hippopotami  were  snorting 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


as  if  they  invited  an  attack.  In  the  larger  tree-jungles  the  traces 
of  elephants,  buffaloes,  rhinoceros,  and  antelopes  were  very  nu- 
merous ; while  a rich  variety  of  small  birds,  as  often  happened, 
made  me  wish  I had  come  on  a shooting  rather  than  on  a long  ex- 
ploring expedition.  Toward  sunset  we  arrived  at  New  Mbumi, 
a very  pretty  and  fertile  place,  lying  at  the  foot  of  a cluster  of 
steep  hills,  and  pitched  camp  for  three  days  to  lay  in  supplies  for 
ten,  as  this  was  reported  to  be  the  only  place  where  we  could  buy 
corn  until  we  reached  Ugogo,  a span  of  140  miles.  Mr.  Mbumi, 
the  chief  of  the  place,  a very  affable  negro,  at  once  took  us  by  the 
hand,  and  said  he  would  do  any  thing  we  desired,  for  he  had  oft- 
en been  to  Zanzibar.  He  knew  that  the  English  were  the  ruling 
power  in  that  land,  and  that  they  were  opposed  to  slavery,  the 
terrible  effects  of  which  had  led  to  his  abandoning  Old  Mbumi, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Mukondokua  River,  and  residing  here. 

The  sick  Hottentot  died  here,  and  we  buried  him  with  Chris- 
uait, 9th,  loth  Ran  honors.  As  his  comrades  said,  he  died  because 
and  nth.  pe  paq  determined  to  die — an  instance  of  that  obsti- 
nate fatalism  in  their  mulish  temperament  which  no  kind  words 
or  threats  can  cure.  This  terrible  catastrophe  made  me  wish  to 
seijchhll  the  remaining  Hottentots  back  to  Zanzibar ; but,  as  they 
all  preferred  serving  with  me  to  returning  to  duty  at  the  Cape,  I 
selected  two  of  the  most  sickly,  put  them  under  Tahib,  one  of 
Rigby’s  old  servants,  and  told  him  to  remain  with  them  at  Mbumi 
until  such  time  as  he  might  find  some  party  proceeding  to  the 
coast;  and,  in  the  mean  while,  for  board  and  lodgings  I gave 
Mbumi  beads  and  cloth.  The  prices  of  provision  here  being  a 
good  specimen  of  what  one  has  to  pay  at  this  season  of  the  year, 
I give  a short  list  of  them  : sixteen  rations  corn,  two  yards  cloth ; 
three  fowls,  two  yards  cloth ; one  goat,  twenty  yards  cloth ; one 
cow,  forty  yards  cloth — the  cloth  being  common  American  sheet- 
ing. Before  we  left  Mbumi,  a party  of  forty  men  and  women  of 
the  Waquiva  tribe,  pressed  by  famine,  were  driven  there  to  pur- 
chase food.  The  same  tribe  had,  however,  killed  many  of  Mbu- 
mi’s  subjects  not  long  since,  and  therefore,  in  African  revenge, 
the  chief  seized  them  all,  saying  he  would  send  them  off  for  sale 
to  the  Zanzibar  market  unless  they  could  give  a legitimate  reason 
for  the  cruelty  they  had  committed.  These  Waquiva,  I was  given 
to  understand,  occupied  the  steep  hills  surrounding  this  place. 
They  were  a squalid-looking  set,  like  the  generality  of  the  inhab- 
itants of  this  mountainous  region. 


Nov.] 


US  AGAR  A. 


69 


To  Tzanzi,  lZth. 


This  march  led  us  over  a high  hill  to  the  Mdunhwi  River,  an- 
to  Mdunhwi,  other  tributary  to  the  Mukondokua.  It  is  all  clad  in 
mh-  the  upper  regions  with  the  slender  pole-trees  which 

characterize  these  hills,  intermingled  with  bamboo ; but  the  bot- 
toms are  characterized  by  a fine  growth  of  fig-trees  of  great  vari- 
ety, along  with  high  grasses ; while  near  the  villages  were  found 
good  gardens  of  plantains,  and  numerous  Palmyra-trees.  The 
rainy  season  being  not  far  off,  the  villagers  were  busy  in  burning 
rubble  and  breaking  their  ground.  Within  their  reach  every 
where  is  the  sarsaparilla  vine,  but  growing  as  a weed,  for  they 
know  nothing  of  its  value. 

Rising  up  from  the  deep  valley  of  Mdunhwi,  we  had  to  cross 
another  high  ridge  before  descending  to  the  also  deep 
valley  of  Chongue,  as  picturesque  a country  as  the 
middle  heights  of  the  Himalayas,  dotted  on  the  ridges  and  spur- 
slopes  by  numerous  small  conical-hut  villages,  but  all  so  poor  that 
we  could  not,  had  we  wanted  it,  have  purchased  provisions  for  a 
day’s  consumption. 

Leaving  this  valley,  we  rose  to  the  table  of  Manyovi,  overhung 
to  Manyongs,  with  much  higher  hills,  looking,  according  to  the  ac- 
WJl-  counts  of  our  Hottentots,  as  they  eyed  the  fine  herds 

of  cattle  grazing  on  the  slopes,  so  like  the  range  in  Kafraria,  that 
they  formed  their  expectations  accordingly,  and  appeared,  for  the 
first  time  since  leaving  the  coast,  happy  at  the  prospect  before 
them,  little  dreaming  that  such  rich  places  were  seldom  to  be  met 
with.  The  Wanyamuezi  porters  even  thought  they  had  found  a 
paradise,  and  forthwith  threw  down  their  loads  as  the  villagers 
came  to  offer  them  grain  for  sale ; so  that,  had  I not  had  the 
Wanguana  a little  under  control,  we  should  not  have  completed 
our  distance  that  day,  and  so  reached  Manyongd,  which  reminded 
me,  by  its  ugliness,  of  the  sterile  Somali  land. 

Proceeding  through  the  semi-desert  rolling  table-land — in  one 
place  occupied  by  men  who  build  their  villages  in 
large  open  squares  of  flat-topped  mud  huts,  which, 
when  I have  occasion  to  refer  to  them  in  future,  I shall  call  by 
their  native  name  tembe — we  could  see  on  the  right  hand  the 
massive  mountains  overhanging  the  Mukondokua  River,  to  the 
front  the  western  chain  of  these  hills,  and  to  the  left  the  high 
crab-claw  shaped  ridge,  which,  extending  from  the  western  chain, 
circles  round  conspicuously  above  the  swelling  knolls  which  lie 
between  the  two  main  rocky  ridges.  Contorted  green  thorn-trees, 


To  Rumuma, 
VSth. 


Bugu,  Calabash,  or  Gouty-limbed  Trees. 

land.  Our  camp  was  pitched  by  the  River  Rumiima,  where,  shel- 
tered from  the  winds  and  enriched  by  alluvial  soil,  there  ought 
to  have  been  no  scarcity ; but  still  the  villagers  had  nothing  to 
sell. 

On  we  went  again  to  Marenga  Mkhali,  the  “Salt  Water,”  to 
breakfast,  and  camped  in  the  crooked  green  thorns 

To  Camp,  16 th.  . . . 1 . 

by  night,  carrying  water  on  tor  our  supper.  This 
kind  of  traveling — forced  marches — hard  as  it  may  appear,  was 
what  we  liked  best,  for  we  felt  that  we  were  shortening  the  jour- 
ney, and  in  doing  so,  shortening  the  risks  of  failure  by  disease, 
by  war,  by  famine,  and  by  mutiny.  We  had  here  no  grasping 
chiefs  to  detain  us  for  presents,  nor  had  our  men  time  to  become 
irritable  and  truculent,  concoct  devices  for  stopping  the  way,  or 
fight  among  themselves. 

On  again,  and  at  last  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  western  chain, 
t i . but  not  all  together.  Some  porters,  overcome  by 
heat  and  thirst,  lay  scattered  along  the  road,  while 
the  corporal  of  the  Hottentots  allowed  his  mule  to  stray  from  him, 
never  dreaming  the  animal  would  travel  far  from  his  comrades, 


70  the  source  or  the  Nile.  [i860. 


“ elephant-foot”  stumps,  and  aloes,  seem  to  thrive  best  here,  by 
their  very  nature  indicating  what  the  country  is,  a poor  stony 


Nov.] 


USAGAKA. 


71 


and,  in  following  after  him,  was  led  such  a long  way  into  the  bush 
that  my  men  became  alarmed  for  his  safety,  knowing  as  they  did 
that  the  “ savages”  were  out  living  like  monkeys  on  the  calabash 
fruit,  and  looking  out  for  any  windfalls,  such  as  stragglers  worth 
plundering,  that  might  come  in  their  wray.  At  first  the  Wan  gu- 
ana attempted  to  track  down  the  corporal ; but,  finding  he  -would 
not  answer  their  repeated  shots,  and  fearful  for  their  own  safety, 
they  came  into  camp  and  reported  the  case.  Losing  no  time,  I 
ordered  twenty  men,  armed  with  carbines,  to  carry  water  for  the 
distressed  porters,  and  bring  the  corporal  back  as  soon  as  possible. 
They  all  marched  off,  as  they  always  do  on  such  exploits,  in  high 
good-humor  with  themselves  for  the  valor  which  they  intended  to 
show ; and  in  the  evening  came  in,  firing  their  guns  in  the  most 
reckless  manner,  beaming  with  delight,  for  they  had  the  corporal 
in  tow,  two  men  and  two  women  captives,  and  a spear  as  a trophy. 
Then  in  high  impatience,  all  in  a breath,  they  began  a recital  of 
the  great  day’s  work.  The  corporal  had  followed  on  the  spoor 
of  the  mule,  occasionally  finding  some  of  his  things  that  had  been 
torn  from  the  beast’s  back  by  the  thorns,  and,  picking  up  these 
one  by  one,  had  become  so  burdened  with  the  weight  of  them 
that  he  could  follow  no  farther.  In  this  fix  the  twenty  men  came 
up  with  him,  but  not  until  they  had  had  a scrimmage  with  the 
“ savages,”  had  secured  four,  and  taken  the  spear  which  had  been 
thrown  at  them.  Of  the  mule’s  position  no  one  could  give  an 
opinion,  save  that  they  imagined,  in  consequence  of  the  thickness 
of  the  bush,  he  would  soon  become  irretrievably  entangled  in  the 
thicket,  where  the  savages  would  find  him,  and  bring  him  in  as  a 
ransom  for  the  prisoners. 

What  with  the  diminution  of  our  supplies,  the  famished  state 

of  the  country,  and  the  difficulties  which  frowned 

Halt,  18£A.  • n , . , 

upon  us  m advance,  together  with  unwillingness  to 
give  up  so  good  a mule,  with  all  its  gear  and  ammunition,  I must 
say  I felt  doubtful  as  to  what  had  better  be  done,  until  the  corpo- 
ral, who  felt  confident  he  would  find  the  beast,  begged  so  hard 
that  I sent  him  in  command  of  another  expedition  of  sixteen 
men,  ordering  him  to  take  one  of  the  prisoners  with  him  to  pro- 
claim to  his  brethren  that  we  would  give  up  the  rest  if  they  re- 
turned us  the  mule.  The  corporal  then  led  off  his  band  to  the 
spot  where  he  last  saw  traces  of  the  animal,  and  tracked  on  till 
sundown;  while  Grant  and  myself  went  out  pot- hunting,  and 
brought  home  a bag  consisting  of  one  striped  eland,  one  saltiana 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


72 


[I860. 


antelope,  four  Guinea-fowl,  four  ringdoves,  and  one  partridge — a 
welcome  supply,  considering  we  were  quite  out  of  flesh. 

Next  day,  as  there  were  no  signs  of  the  trackers,  I went  again 
to  the  place  of  the  elands,  wounded  a fine  male,  but 

Halt,  19i/i.  r , T ’ , ’ 

gave  up  the  chase,  as  1 heard  the  unmistakable  gun- 
firing return  of  the  party,  and  straightway  proceeded  to  camp. 
Sure  enough,  there  they  were;  they  had  tracked  the  animal  back 
to  Marenga  Mkhali,  through  jungle — for  he  had  not  taken  to  the 
footpath.  Then,  finding  he  had  gone  on,  they  returned  quite  tired 
and  famished.  To  make  the  most  of  a bad  job,  I now  sent  Grant 
on  to  the  Robeho  (or  windy)  Pass,  on  the  top  of  the  western 
chain,  with  the  mules  and  heavy  baggage,  and  directions  to  pro- 
ceed thence  across  the  brow  of  the  hill  the  following  morning, 
while  I remained  behind  with  the  tired  men,  promising  to  join 
him  by  breakfast-time.  I next  released  the  prisoners,  much  to 
their  disgust,  for  they  had  not  known  such  good  feeding  before, 
and  dreaded  being  turned  adrift  again  in  the  jungles  to  live  on 
calabash  seeds ; and  then,  after  shooting  six  Guinea-fowl,  turned 
in  for  the  night.  v 

Betimes  in  the  morning  we  were  off,  mounting  the  Robeho,  a 
good  stiff  ascent,  covered  with  trees  and  large  blocks 

To  Camp,  20(7i.  ° . ’ . & . 

oi  granite,  excepting  only  where  cleared  for  villages; 
and  on  we  went  rapidly,  until  at  noon  the  advance  party  was 
reached,  located  in  a village  overlooking  the  great  interior  pla- 
teau— a picture,  as  it  were,  of  the  common  type  of  African 
scenery.  Here,  taking  a hasty  meal,  we  resumed  the  march  all 
together,  descended  the  great  western  chain,  and,  as  night  set  in, 
camped  in  a ravine  at  the  foot  of  it,  not  far  from  the  great  junc- 
tion-station Ugogi,  where  terminate  the  hills  of  Usagara. 


Nov.] 


UGOGO. 


73 


CHAPTER  IY. 

UGOGO,  AND  THE  WILDERNESS  OF  MGUNDA  MKHALI, 

The  Lie  of  the  Country. — Rhinoceros-stalking. — Scuffle  of  Villagers  over  a Carcass. 
— Chief  “Short-legs”  and  his  Successor. — Buffalo-shooting. — Getting  Lost. — A 
Troublesome  Sultan. — Desertions  from  the  Camp. — Getting  Plundered. — Wilder- 
ness March. — Diplomatic  Relations  with  the  Local  Powers. — Manila  Sera’s 
Story. — Christmas. — The  Relief  from  Kaze. 


This  day’s  work  led  ns  from  the  Hilly  Usagara  range  into  the 
To  Camp  in  the  more  level  lands  of  the  interior.  Making  a double 
Bush,  2ist  & ‘iu.  marc]1  Qf  we  firgt  gapped  to  breakfast  at  the  quiet 

little  settlement  ofluenge,  where 
cattle  were  abundant,  but  grain 
so  scarce  that  the  villagers  were 
living  on  calabash  seeds.  Pro- 
ceeding thence  across  fields 
delightfully  checkered  with 
fine  calabash  and  fig  trees,  we 
marched,  carrying  water  through 
thorny  jungles,  until  dark,  when 
we  bivouacked  for  the  night, 
only  to  rest  and  push  on  again 
next  morning,  arriving  at  Ma- 
renga  Mkhali  (the  saline  water) 
to  breakfast.  Here  a good  view 
of  the  Usagara  Hills  is  obtained. 

Carrying  water  with  us,  we  next 
marched  half  way  to  the  first 
settlement  of  Ugogo,  and  bivou- 
acked again,  to  eat  the  last  of  our  store  of  Mbiimi  grain. 

At  length  the  greater  famine  lands  had  been  spanned ; but  we 
were  not  in  lands  of  plenty,  for  the  Wagogo  we 
found,  like  their  neighbors  Wasagara,  eating  the  seed 
of  the  calabash,  to  save  their  small  stores  of  grain. 

The  East  Coast  Range  having  been  passed,  no  more  hills  had 
Halt,  24/a  ana  to  be  crossed,  for  the  land  we  next  entered  on  is  a 
plateau  of  rolling  ground,  sloping  southward  to  the 


Mgogo,  or  Native  of  Ugogo. 


To  E.  Ugogo, 
23d. 


25  th. 


74 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[i860. 


Ruaha  River,  which  forms  a great  drain  running  from  west  to 
east,  carrying  off  all  the  rain-waters  that  fall  in  its  neighborhood 
through  the  East  Coast  Range  to  the  sea.  To  the  northward  can 


View  of  East  Coast  Range  from  Marengo,  Mkhali. 


be  seen  some  low  hills  which  are  occupied  by  Wahumba,  a sub- 
tribe of  the  warlike  Masai ; and  on  the  west  is  the  large  forest- 
wilderness  of  Mgunda  Mkhali.  Ugogo,  lying  under  the  lee  side 
of  the  Usagara  Hills,  is  comparatively  sterile.  Small  outcrops  of 
granite  here  and  there  poke  through  the  surface,  which,  like  the 
rest  of  the  rolling  land,  being  covered  with  bush,  principally  aca- 
cias, have  a pleasing  appearance  after  the  rains  have  set  in,  but 
are  too  brown  and  desert-looking  during  the  rest  of  the  year. 
Large  prairies  of  grass  also  are  exposed  in  many  places,  and  the 
villagers  have  laid  much  ground  bare  for  agricultural  purposes. 

Altogether,  Ugogo  has  a very  wild  aspect,  well  in  keeping  with 
the  natives  who  occupy  it,  who,  more  like  the  Wazaramo  than 
the  Wasagara,  carry  arms,  intended  for  use  rather  than  show. 
The  men,  indeed,  are  never  seen  without  their  usual  arms — the 
spear,  the  shield,  and  the  assegai.  They  live  in  flat-topped,  square, 
tembe  villages,  wherever  springs  of  water  are  found,  keep  cattle 
in  plenty,  and  farm  enough  generally  to  supply  not  only  their 
own  wants,  but  those  of  the  thousands  who  annually  pass  in  cara- 
vans. They  are  extremely  fond  of  ornaments,  the  most  common 
of  which  is  an  ugly  tube  of  the  gourd  thrust  through  the  lower 
lobe  of  the  ear.  Their  color  is  a soft  ruddy  brown,  with  a slight 
infusion  of  black,  not  unlike  that  of  a rich  plum.  Impulsive  by 
nature,  and  exceedingly  avaricious,  they  pester  travelers  beyond 
all  conception  by  thronging  the  road,  jeering,  quizzing,  and  point- 


Nov.] 


UGOGO. 


75' 


ing  at  them ; and  in  camp,  by  intrusively  forcing  their  way  into 
the  midst  of  the  kit,  and  even  into  the  stranger’s  tent.  Caravans, 
in  consequence,  never  enter  their  villages,  but  camp  outside,  gen- 
erally under  the  big  “ gouty -limbed”  trees,  encircling  their  entire 
camp  sometimes  with  a ring-fence  of  thorns  to  prevent  any  sud- 
den attack. 

To  resume  the  thread  of  the  journey : we  found,  on  arrival  in 
Ugogo,  very  little  more  food  than  in  Usagara,  for  the  Wagogo 
were  mixing  their  small  stores  of  grain  with  the  monkey-bread 
seeds  of  the  gouty -limbed  tree.  Water  was  so  scarce  in  the  wells 
at  this  season  that  we  had  to  buy  it  at  the  normal  price  of  coun- 
try beer ; and,  as  may  be  imagined  where  such  distress  in  food 
was  existing,  cows,  goats,  sheep,  and  fowls  were  also  selling  at 
high  rates. 


Our  mules  here  gave  us  the  slip  again,  and  walked  all  the  way 
back  to  Marenga  Mkhali,  where  they  were  found  and  brought 
back  by  some  Wagogo,  who  took  four  yards  of  merikani  in  ad- 
vance, with  a promise  of  four  more  on  return,  for  the  job,  their 
chief  being  security  for  their  fidelity.  This  business  detained  us 
two  days,  during  which  time  I shot  a new  variety  of  florikan,  pe- 
culiar in  having  a light  blue  band  stretching  from  the  nose  over 
the  eye  to  the  occiput.  Each  day,  while  we  resided  here,  cries 
were  raised  by  the  villagers  that  the  Wahumba  were  coming,  and 
then  all  the  cattle  out  in  the  plains,  both  far  and  near,  were  driven 
into  the  village  for  protection. 

At  last,  on  the  26th,  as  the  mules  were  brought  in,  I paid  a 
to  camp  in  hongo  or  tax  of  four  barsati  and  four  yards  of  chintz 
Bush,  26th.  (jhigf*  anq  departed,  but  not  until  one  of  my 

porters,  a Mhehe,  obtained  a fat  dog  for  his  dinner;  he  had  set 
his  heart  on  it,  and  would  not  move  until  he  had  killed  it,  and 
tied  it  on  to  his  load  for  the  evening’s  repast.  Passing  through 
the  next  villages — a collection  called  Kifukuro — we  had  to  pay 
another  small  tax  of  two  barsati  and  four  yards  of  chintz  to  the 
chief.  There  we  breakfasted,  and  pushed  on,  carrying  water  to 
a bivouac  in  the  jungles,  as  the  famine  precluded  our  taking  the 
march  more  easily. 

Pushing  on  again,  we  cleared  out  of  the  woods,  and  arrived  at 
to  e.  Kanyenye,  the  eastern  border  of  the  largest  clearance  of  Ugogo, 
Kanyenye.  Here  we  were  forced  to  halt  a day,  as 
the  mules  were  done  up,  and  eight  of  the  Wanyamuezi  porters 
absconded,  carrying  with  them  the  best  part  of  their  loads.  There 


76 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


was  also  another  inducement  for  stopping  here;  for,  after  stack- 
ing the  loads,  as  we  usually  did  on  arriving  in  camp,  against  a 
large  gouty-limbed  tree,  a hungry  Mgogo,  on  eying  our  guns,  of- 
fered his  services  to  show  us  some  bicornis  rhinoceros,  which,  he 
said,  paid  nightly  visits  to  certain  bitter  pools  that  lay  in  the  nul- 
lah bottoms  not  far  off.  This  exciting  intelligence  made  me  in- 
quire if  it  was  not  possible  to  find  them  at  once ; but,  being  as- 


Onr  Camp  in  Ugogo. 


sured  that  they  lived  very  far  off,  and  that  the  best  chance  was 
the  night,  I gave  way,  and  settled  on  starting  at  ten,  to  arrive  at 
the  ground  before  the  full  moon  should  rise. 

I set  forth  with  the  guide  and  two  of  the  sheikh’s  boys,  each 
carrying  a single  rifle,  and  ensconced  myself  in  the  nullah,  to  hide 
until  our  expected  visitors  should  arrive,  and  there  remained  until 
midnight.  When  the  hitherto  noisy  villagers  turned  into  bed, 
the  silvery  moon  shed  her  light  on  the  desolate  scene,  and  the 
Mgogo  guide,  taking  fright,  bolted.  He  had  not,  however,  gone 
long,  when,  looming  above  us,  coming  over  the  horizon  line,  was 
the  very  animal  we  wanted. 

In  a fidgety  manner,  the  beast  then  descended,  as  if  he  expect- 
ed some  danger  in  store — and  he  was  not  wrong ; for,  attaching  a 
bit  of  white  paper  to  the  fly-sight  of  my  Blissett,  I approached 
him,  crawling  under  cover  of  the  banks  until  within  eighty  yards 
of  him,  when,  finding  that  the  moon  shone  full  on  his  flank,  I 
raised  myself  upright  and  planted  a bullet  behind  his  left  shoul- 
der. Thus  died  my  first  rhinoceros. 

To  make  the  most  of  the  night,  as  I wanted  meat  for  my  men 


Nov.] 


UGOGO. 


77 


to  cook,  as  well  as  a stock  to  carry  with,  them,  or  barter  with  the 
villagers  for  grain,  I now  retired  to  my  old  position,  and  waited 
again. 

After  two  hours  had  elapsed,  two  more  rhinoceros  approached 
me  in  the  same  stealthy,  fidgety  way  as  the  first  one.  They  came 
even  closer  than  the  first,  but,  the  moon  having  passed  beyond 
their  meridian,  I could  not  obtain  so  clear  a mark.  Still  they 
were  big  marks,  and  I determined  on  doing  my  best  before  they 
had  time  to  wind  us ; so,  stepping  out,  with  the  sheikh’s  boys  be- 
hind me  carrying  the  second  rifle  to  meet  all  emergencies,  I plant- 
ed a ball  in  the  larger  one,  and  brought  him  round  with  a roar 
and  whooh-whooh,  exactly  to  the  best  position  I could  wish  for 
receiving  a second  shot;  but,  alas!  on  turning  sharply  round  for 
the  spare  rifle,  I had  the  mortification  to  see  that  both  the  black 
boys  had  made  off,  and  were  scrambling  like  monkeys  up  a tree. 
At  the  same  time,  the  rhinoceros,  fortunately  for  me,  on  second 
consideration  turned  to  the  right-about,  and  shuffled  away,  leav- 
ing, as  is  usually  the  case  when  conical  bullets  are  used,  no  traces 
of  blood. 

Thus  ended  the  night’s  work.  We  now  went  home  by  dawn 
to  apprise  all  the  porters  that  we  had  flesh  in  store  for  them,  when 
the  two  boys  who  had  so  shamelessly  deserted  me,  instead  of  hid- 
ing their  heads,  described  all  the  night’s  scenes  with  such  capital 
mimicry  as  set  the  whole  camp  in  a roar.  We  had  all  now  to 
hurry  back  to  the  carcass  before  the  Wagogo  could  find  it;  but, 
though  this  precaution  was  quickly  taken,  still,  before  the  tough 
skin  of  the  beast  could  be  cut  through,  the  Wagogo  began  assem- 
bling like  vultures,  and  fighting  with  my  men.  A more  savage, 
filthy,  disgusting,  but,  at  the  same  time,  grotesque  scene  than  that 
which  followed  can  not  be  conceived.  All  fell  to  work,  armed 
with  swords,  spears,  knives,  and  hatchets,  cutting  and  slashing, 
thumping  and  bawling,  fighting  and  tearing,  tumbling  and  wrest- 
ling up  to  their  knees  in  filth  and  blood  in  the  middle  of  the  car- 
cass. When  a tempting  morsel  fell  to  the  possession  of  any  one, 
a stronger  neighbor  would  seize  and  bear  off  the  prize  in  triumph. 
All  right  was  now  a matter  of  pure  might,  and  lucky  it  was  that 
it  did  not  end  in  a fight  between  our  men  and  the  villagers.  These 
might  be  afterward  seen,  one  by  one,  covered  with  blood,  scamper- 
ing home  each  with  his  spoil — a piece  of  tripe,  or  liver,  or  lights, 
or  whatever  else  it  might  have  been  his  fortune  to  get  off  with. 

W e were  still  in  great  want  of  men ; but,  rather  than  stop  a 


78 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[18G0. 


ToMagomba’s  day,  as  aH  delays  only  lead  to  more  difficulties,  I 
Palace,  mh.  pushed  on  to  Magomba’s  palace  with  the  assistance 
of  some  Wagogo  carrying  our  baggage,  each  taking  one  cloth  as 
his  hire.  The  chief  wazir  at  once  came  out  to  meet  me  on  the 
way,  and  in  an  apparently  affable  manner,  as  an  old  friend,  beg- 
ged that  I would  live  in  the  palace — a bait  which  I did  not  take, 
as  I knew  my  friend  by  experience  a little  too  well.  He  then,  in 
the  politest  possible  manner,  told  me  that  a great  dearth  of  food 
was  oppressing  the  land  — so  much  so,  that  pretty  cloths  only 
would  purchase  grain.  I now  wished  to  settle  my  hongo,  but  the 
great  chief  could  not  hear  of  such  indecent  haste. 

The  next  day,  too,  the  chief  was  too  drunk  to  listen  to  any  one, 
Halt,  soth  1st  and  I must  have  patience.  I took  out  this  time  in 
and  2d.  the  jungles  very  profitably,  killing  a fine  buck  and 

doe  antelope,  of  a species  unknown.  These  animals  are  much 
about  the  same  size  and  shape  as  the  common  Indian  antelope, 
and,  like  them,  roam  about  in  large  herds.  The  only  marked  dif- 
ference between  the  two  is  in  the  shape  of  their  horns,  as  may  be 
seen  by  the  opposite  engraving ; and  in  their  color,  in  which,  in 
both  sexes,  the  Ugogo  antelopes  resemble  the  picticandata  gazelle 
of  Tibet,  except  that  the  former  have  dark  markings  on  the  face. 

At  last,  after  thousands  of  difficulties  much  like  those  I encoun- 
to  camp  m tered  in  Uzaramo,  the  honga  was  settled  by  a pay- 
Buah,  3d.  ment  of  one  kisutu,  one  dubuani,  four  yards  bendera, 
four  yards  kiniki,  and  three  yards  merikani.  The  wazir  then 
thought  he  would  do  some  business  on  his  own  account,  and  com- 
menced work  by  presenting  me  with  a pot  of  ghee  and  flour,  say- 
ing at  the  same  time  “empty  words  did  not  show  true  love,”  and 
hoping  that  I would  prove  mine  by  making  some  slight  return. 
To  get  rid  of  the  animal,  I gave  him  the  full  value  of  his  present 
in  cloth,  which  he  no  sooner  pocketed  than  he  had  the  audacity 
to  accuse  Grant  of  sacrilege  for  having  shot  a lizard  on  a holy- 
stone, and  demanded  four  cloths  to  pay  atonement  for  this  offense 
against  the  “ Church.”  As  yet,  he  said,  the  chief  was  not  aware 
of  the  damage  done,  and  it  was  well  he  was  not;  for  he  would 
himself,  if  I only  paid  him  the  four  cloths,  settle  matters  quietly, 
otherwise  there  would  be  no  knowing  what  demands  might  be 
made  on  my  cloth.  It  was  necessary  to  get  up  hot  temper,  else 
there  was  no  knowing  how  far  he  would  go ; so  I returned  him 
his  presents,  and  told  the  sheikh,  instead  of  giving  four,  to  fling 
six  cloths  in  his  face,  and  tell  him  that  the  holy-stone  story  was 


Dec.] 


UGOGO. 


79 


New  Antelope,  Ugogo. 


merely  a humbug,  and  I would  take  care  no  more  white  men  ever 
came  to  see  him  again. 

Some  Wanyamuezi  porters,  who  had  been  left  sick  here  by  for- 
mer caravans,  now  wished  to  take  service  with  me  as  far  as  Kaze ; 
but  the  W agogo,  hearing  of  their  desire,  frightened  them  off  it. 
A report  also  at  this  time  was  brought  to  us  that  a caravan  had 
just  arrived  at  our  last  ground,  having  come  up  from  Whindi 
direct  by  the  line  of  the  Wami  Eiver,  in  its  upper  course  called 
Mukondokua,  without  crossing  a single  hill  all  the  way ; I there- 
fore sent  three  men  to  see  if  they  had  any  porters  to  spare,  as  it 
was  said  they  had ; but  the  three  men,  although  they  left  their 
bows  and  arrows  behind,  never  came  back. 

Another  mule  died  to-day.  This  was  perplexing  indeed,  but 
to  stop  longer  was  useless ; so  we  pushed  forward  as  best  wc 
could  to  a pond  at  the  western  end  of  the  district,  where  we  found 
a party  of  Makua  sportsmen  who  had  just  killed  an  elephant. 


80  the  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [1860. 

They  had  lived  in  Ugogo  one  year  and  a half,  and  had  killed  in 
all  seventeen  elephants,  half  the  tusks  of  which,  as  well  as  some 
portion  of  the  flesh,  they  gave  to  Magomba  for  the  privilege  of  re- 
siding there.  There  were  many  antelopes  there,  some  of  which 
both  Grant  and  I shot  for  the  good  of  the  pot,  and  he  also  killed 
a crocuta  hyena.  From  the  pond  we  went  on  to  the  middle  of  a 
large  jungle,  and  bivouacked  for  the  night  in  a shower  of  rain, 
the  second  of  the  season. 

During  a fierce  down-pour  of  rain,  the  porters  all  quivering  and 
quaking:  with  cold,  we  at  length  emerged  from  the 

To  Usekh6  4th.  ^ 0 . ° 0 

jungle,  and  entered  the  prettiest  spot  in  Ugogo— the 
populous  district  of  Usekhe — where  little  hills  and  huge  columns 
of  granite  crop  out.  Here  we  halted. 

Next  day  came  the  hongo  business,  which  was  settled  by  pay- 
ing one  dubuani,  one  kitambi,  one  msutu,  four  yards 
merikani,  and  two  yards  kiniki ; but,  while  we  were 
doing  it,  eight  porters  ran  away,  and  four  fresh  ones  were  engaged 
(Wanyamuezi)  who  had  run  away  from  Kanyenye. 

With  one  more  march  from  this  we  reached  the  last  district  in 
Ugogo,  Khoko.  Here  the  whole  of  the  inhabitants 

To  Khoko,  6th.  ° ° ’ ...  , 

turned  out  to  oppose  us,  imagining  we  had  come 
there  to  revenge  the  Arab  Mohinna,  because  the  Wagogo  attack- 
ed him  a year  ago,  plundered  his  camp,  and  drove  him  back  to 
Kaze,  for  having  shot  their  old  chief  “ Short-legs.”  They,  how- 
ever, no  sooner  found  out  who  we  were  than  they  allowed  us  to 
pass  on  and  encamp  in  the  outskirts  of  the  Mgunda  Mkhali  wil- 
derness. To  this  position  in  the  bush  I strongly  objected,  on  the 
plea  that  guns  could  be  best  used  against  arrows  in  the  open ; but 
none  would  go  out  in  the  field,  maintaining  that  the  Wagogo 
would  fear  to  attack  us  so  far  from  their  villages  as  we  now  were, 
lest  we  might  cut  them  off  in  their  retreat. 

Hori  Hori  was  now  chief  in  Short-legs’s  stead,  and  affected  to 
be  much  pleased  that  we  were  English,  and  not  Arabs.  He  told 
us  we  might,  he  thought,  be  able  to  recruit  all  the  men  that  we 
were  in  want  of,  as  many  Wanyamuezi  who  had  been  left  there 
sick  wished  to  go  to  their  homes ; and  I would  only,  in  addition 
to  their  wages,  have  to  pay  their  “hotel  bills”  to  the  Wagogo. 
This,  of  course,  I was  ready  to  do,  though  I knew  the  Wanya- 
muezi had  paid  for  themselves,  as  is  usual,  by  their  work  in  the 
fields  of  their  hosts.  Still,  as  I should  be  depriving  these  of 
hands,  I could  scarcely  expect  to  get  off  for  less  than  the  value  of 


Dec.] 


UGOGO. 


81 


Halt,  1th. 


Halt,  8th. 


a slave  for  each,  and  told  Sheikh  Said  to  look  out  for  some  men 
at  once,  while  at  the  same  time  he  laid  in  provisions  of  grain  to 
last  us  eight  days  in  the  wilderness,  and  settle  the  hongo. 

For  this  triple  business  I allowed  three  days,  during  which 
time,  always  eager  to  shoot  something,  either  for  sci- 
ence or  the  pot,  I killed  a bicornis  rhinoceros, -ak  a 
distance  of  five  paces  only,  with  my  small  40-gauge  Lancaster,  as 
the  beast  stood  quietly  feeding  in  the  bush;  and  I also  shot  a 
bitch  fox  of  the  genus  Otocyon  Lalandii , whose  ill-omened  cry  oft- 
en alarms  the  natives  by  forewarning  them  of  danger.  This  was 
rather  tame  sport;  but  next  day  I had  better  fun. 

Starting  in  the  early  morning,  accompanied  by  two  of  Sheikh 
Said’s  boys,  Suliman  and  Faraj,  each  carrying  a rifle, 
while  I carried  a shot-gun,  we  followed  a footpath  to 
the  westward  in  the  wilderness  of  Mgiinda  Mkhali.  There,  after 
walking  a short  while  in  the  bush,  as  I heard  the  grunt  of  a buf- 
falo close  on  my  left,  I took  “Blissett”  in  hand,  and  walked  to 
where  I soon  espied  a large  herd  quietly  feeding.  They  were 
quite  unconscious  of  my  approach,  so  I took  a shot  at  a cow,  and 
wounded  her;  then,  after  reloading,  put  a ball  in  a bull,  and  stag- 
gered him  also.  This  caused  great  confusion  among  them ; but, 
as  none  of  the  animals  knew  where  the  shots  came  from,  they 
simply  shifted  about  in  a fidgety  manner,  allowing  me  to  kill  the 
first  cow,  and  even  fire  a fourth  shot,  which  sickened  the  great 
bull,  and  induced  him  to  walk  off,  leaving  the  herd  to  their  fate, 
who,  considerably  puzzled,  began  moving  off  also. 

I now  called  up  the  boys,  and  determined  on  following  the 
herd  down  before  either  skinning  the  dead  cow  or  following  the 
bull,  who  I knew  could  not  go  far.  Their  footprints  being  well 
defined  in  the  moist  sandy  soil,  we  soon  found  the  herd  again ; 
but,  as  they  now  knew  they  were  pursued,  they  kept  moving  on 
in  short  runs  at  a time,  when,  occasionally  gaining  glimpses  of 
their  large  dark  bodies  as  they  forced  through  the  bush,  I repeated 
my  shots  and  struck  a good  number,  some  more  and  some  less 
severely.  This  was  very  provoking ; for  all  of  them,  being  stern 
shots,  were  not  likely  to  kill,  and  the  jungle  was  so  thick  I could 
not  get  a front  view  of  them.  Presently,  however,  one  with  her 
hind  leg  broken  pulled  up  on  a white-ant  hill,  and,  tossing  her 
horns,  came  down  with  a charge  the  instant  I showed  myself 
close  to  her.  One  crack  of  the  rifle  rolled  her  over,  and  gave  me 
free  scope  to  improve  the  bag,  which  was  very  soon  done ; for  on 

F 


82 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[I8G0. 


following  the  spoors,  the  traces  of  blood  led  us  up  to  another  one 
as  lame  as  the  last.  He  then  got  a second  bullet  in  the  flank, 
and,  after  hobbling  a little,  evaded  our  sight  and  threw  himself 
into  a bush,  where  we  no  sooner  arrived  than  he  plunged  head- 
long at  us  from  his  ambush,  just,  and  only  just,  giving  me  time 
to  present  my  small  40-gauge  Lancaster. 

It  was  a most  ridiculous  scene.  Suliman  by  my  side,  with  the 
instinct  of  a monkey,  made  a violent  spring  and  swung  himself 
by  a bough  immediately  over  the  beast,  while  Faraj  bolted  away 
and  left  me  single-gunned  to  polish  him  off.  There  was  only  one 
course  to  pursue,  for  in  -one  instant  more  he  would  have  been  into 
me;  so,  quick  as  thought,  I fired  the  gun,  and,  as  luck  would 
have  it,  my  bullet,  after  passing  through  the  edge  of  one  of  his 
horns,  stuck  in  the  spine  of  his  neck,  and  rolled  him  over  at  my 
feet  as  dead  as  a rabbit.  How,  having  cut  the  beast’s  throat  to 
make  him  “ hilal,”  according  to  Mussulman  usage,  and  thinking 
we  had  done  enough  if  I could  only  return  to  the  first  wounded 
bull  and  settle  him  too,  we  commenced  retracing  our  steps,  and 
by  accident  came  on  Grant.  He  was  passing  by  from  another 
quarter,  and  became  amused  by  the  glowing  description  of  my 
boys,  who  never  omitted  to  narrate  their  own  cowardice  as  an 
excellent  tale.  He  begged  us  to  go  on  in  our  course,  while  he 
would  go  back  and  send  us  some  porters  to  carry  home  the  game. 

Now,  tracking  back  again  to  the  first  point  of  attack,  we  fol- 
lowed the  blood  of  the  first  bull,  till  at  length  I found  him  stand- 
ing like  a stuck  pig  in  some  bushes,  looking  as  if  he  would  like 
to  be  put  out  of  his  miseries.-  Taking  compassion,  I leveled  my 
Blissett;  but,  as  bad  luck  would  have  it,  a bough  intercepted  the 
flight  of  the  bullet,  and  it  went  “ pinging”  into  the  air,  while  the 
big  bull  went  off  at  a gallop.  To  follow  on  was  no  difficulty, 
the  spoor  was  so  good ; and  in  ten  minutes  more,  as  I opened  on 
a small  clearance,  Blissett  in  hand,  the  great  beast,  from  the  thicket 
on  the  opposite  side,  charged  down  like  a mad  bull,  full  of  feroc- 
ity— as  ugly  an  antagonist  as  ever  I saw,  for  the  front  of  his  head 
was  all  shielded  with  horn.  A small  mound  fortunately  stood 
between  us,  and  as  he  rounded  it,  I jumped  to  one  side  and  let 
fly  at  his  flank,  but  without  the  effect  of  stopping  him ; for,  as 
quick  as  thought,  the  huge  monster  was  at  my  feet,  battling  with 
the  impalpable  smoke  of  my  gun,  which  fortunately  hung  so  thick 
on  the  ground  at  the  height  of  his  head  that  he  could  not  see  me, 
though  I was  so  close  that  I might,  had  I been  possessed  of  a 


THREE  BUFFALO  CHARGES  LN'  ONE  DAY. 


MGUKDA  MKHALL 


Dec.] 


UGOGO. 


85 


hatchet,  have  chopped  off  his  head.  This  was  a predicament 
which  looked  very  ugly,  for  my  boys  had  both  bolted,  taking  with 
them  my  guns ; but  suddenly  the  beast,  evidently  regarding  the 
smoke  as  a phantom  which  could  not  be  mastered,  turned  round 
in  a bustle,  to  my  intense  relief,  and  galloped  off  at  full  speed,  as 
if  scared  by  some  terrible  apparition. 

Oh  what  would  I not  then  have  given  for  a gun,  the  chance 
was  such  a good  one ! Still,  angry  though  I was,  I could  not 
help  laughing  as  the  dastardly  boys  came  into  the  clearance  full 
of  their  mimicry,  and  joked  over  the  scene  they  had  witnessed  in 
securitjr,  while  my  life  was  in  jeopardy  because  they  were  too 
frightened  to  give  me  my  gun.  But  now  came  the  worst  part  of 
the  day ; for,  though  rain  was  falling,  I had  not  the  heart  to  re- 
linquish my  game.  Tracking  on  through  the  bush,  I thought 
every  minute  I should  come  up  with  the  brute ; but  his  wounds 
ceased  to  bleed,  and  in  the  confusion  of  the  numerous  tracks  which 
scored  all  the  forest  we  lost  our  own. 

Much  disappointed  at  this,  I now  proposed  to  make  for  the 
track  we  came  by  in  the  morning,  and  follow  it  down  into  camp ; 
but  this  luxury  was  not  destined  to  be  our  lot  that  night,  for  the 
rain  had  obliterated  all  our  footprints  of  the  morning,  and  we 
passed  the  track,  mistaking  it  for  the  run  of  wild  beasts.  It  struck 
me  we  had  done  so ; but,  say  what  I would,  the  boys  thought 
they  knew  better ; and  the  consequence  was,  that,  after  wander- 
ing for  hours  no  one  knew  where — for  there  was  no  sun  to  guide 
us  — I pulled  up,  and  swore  I would  wait  for  the  stars,  else  it 
might  be  our  fate  to  be  lost  in  the  wilderness,  which  I did  not 
much  relish.  We  were  all  at  this  time  “ hungry  as  hunters,”  and 
beginning  to  feel  very  miserable  from  being  wet  through.  What 
little  ammunition  I had  left  I fired  off  as  signals,  or  made  tinder 
of  to  get  up  a fire,  but  the  wrood  would  not  burn.  In  this  hapless 
condition  the  black  boys  began  murmuring,  wishing  to  go  on, 
pretending,  though  both  held  opposite  views,  that  each  knew  the 
way,  for  they  thought  nothing  could  be  worse  than  their  present 
state  of  discomfort. 

Night  with  its  gloom  was  then  drawing  on,  heightened  by 
thunder  and  lightning,  which  set  in  all  around  us.  At  times  we 
thought  we  heard  musketry  in  camp,  knowing  that  Grant  would 
be  sure  to  fire  signals  for  us ; and  doubtless  we  did  so,  but  its 
sound  and  the  thunder  so  much  resembled  one  another  that  we 
distrusted  our  ears.  At  any  rate,  the  boys  mistook  the  west  for 


86 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


the  east ; and  as  I thought  they  had  done  so,  I stood  firm  to  one 
spot,  and  finally  lay  down  with  them  to  sleep  upon  the  cold  wet 
ground,  where  we  slept  pretty  well,  being  only  disturbed  occa- 
sionally by  some  animals  sniffing  at  our  feet.  As  the  clouds 
broke  toward  morning,  my  obstinate  boys  still  swore  that  west 
was  east,  and  would  hardly  follow  me  when  tracking  down  Venus; 
next  up  rose  the  moon,  and  then  followed  the  sun,  when,  as  good 
luck  would  have  it,  we  struck  on  the  track,  and  walked  straight 
into  camp. 

Here  every  one  was  in  a great  state  of  excitement : Grant  had 
been  making  the  men  fire  volleys.  The  little  sheikh 

HaH,  9th.  ° , 

was  warmly  congratulatory  as  he  spoke  ot  the  num- 
bers who  had  strayed  away  and  had  been  lost  in  that  wilderness; 
while  Bombay  admitted  he  thought  we  should  turn  up  again  if  I 
did  not  listen  to  the  advice  of  the  boys,  which  was  his  only  fear. 
Nothing  as  yet,  I now  found,  had  been  done  to  further  our  march. 
The  hongo,  the  sheikh  said,  had  to  precede  every  thing;  yet  that 
had  not  been  settled,  because  the  chief  deferred  it  the  day  of  our 
arrival,  on  the  plea  that  it  was  the  anniversary  of  Short-legs’s 
death;  and  he  also  said  that  till  then  all  the  Wagogo  had  been  in 
mourning  by  ceasing  to  wear  all  their  brass  bracelets  and  other 
ornaments,  and  they  now  wished  to  solemnize  the  occasion  by 
feasting  and  renewing  their  finery.  This  being  granted,  the  next 
day  another  pretext  for  delay  was  found  by  the  Wahumba  hav- 
ing made  a raid  on  their  cattle,  which  necessitated  the  chief  and 
all  his  men  turning  out  to  drive  them  away;  and  to-day  nothing 
could  be  attended  to,  as  a party  of  fugitive  Wanyamuezi  had  ar- 
rived and  put  them  all  in  a fright.  These  Wanyamuezi,  it  then 
transpired,  were  soldiers  of  Manna  Sdra,  “ the  Tippler,”  who  was 
at  war  with  the  Arabs.  He  had  been  defeated  at  Nguru,  a dis- 
trict in  Unyamudzi,  by  the  Arabs,  and  had  sent  these  men  to  cut 
off  the  caravan  route,  as  the  best  way  of  retaliation  that  lay  in  his 
power. 

At  last,  the  tax  having  been  settled  by  the  payment  of  one 
change  ground,  dubuani,  two  barsati,  one  sahari,  six  yards  merikani, 
and  three  yards  kiniki  (not,  however,  until  I had  our 
tents  struck,  and  threatened  to  march  away  if  the  chief  would  not 
take  it),  I proposed  going  on  with  the  journey,  for  our  provisions 
were  stored.  But  when  the  loads  were  being  lifted,  I found  ten 
more  men  were  missing ; and  as  nothing  now  could  be  done  but 
throw  ten  loads  away,  which  seemed  too  great  a sacrifice  to  be 


Dec.] 


UGOGO. 


87 


made  in  a hurry,  I simply  changed  ground  to  show  we  were 
ready  to  march,  and  sent  my  men  about,  either  to  try  to  induce 
the  fugitive  Wanyamuezi  to  take  service  with  me,  or  else  to  buy 
donkeys,  as  the  chief  said  he  had  some  to  sell. 

We  had  already  been  here  too  long.  A report  was  now  spread 
that  a lion  had  killed  one  of  the  chief’s  cows;  and 

Halt,  \lth.  . ’ 

the  Wagogo,  suspecting  that  our  being  here  was  the 
cause  of  this  ill  luck,  threatened  to  attack  us.  This  no  sooner 
got  noised  over  the  camp  than  all  my  Wanyamuezi  porters,  who 
had  friends  in  Ugogo,  left  to  live  with  them,  and  would  not  come 
back  again  even  when  the  “storm  had  blown  over,”  because  they 
did  not  like  the  incessant  rains  that  half  deluged  the  camp.  The 
chief,  too,  said  he  would  not  sell  us  his  donkeys,  lest  we  should 
give  them  back  to  Mohinna,  from  whom  they  were  taken  during 
his  fight  here.  Intrigues  of  all  sorts  I could  see  were  brewing, 
possibly  at  the  instigation  of  the  fugitive  Wanyamuezi,  who  sus- 
pected we  were  bound  to  side  with  the  Arabs — possibly  from 
some  other  cause,  I could  not  tell  what ; so,  to  clear  out  of  this 
pandemonium  as  soon  as  possible,  I issued  cloths  to  buy  double 
rations,  intending  to  cross  the  wilderness  by  successive  relays  in 
double  the  ordinary  number  of  days.  I determined  at  the  same 
time  to  send  forward  two  freed  men  to  Kaze  to  ask  Musa  and 
the  Arabs  to  send  me  out  some  provisions  and  men  to  meet  us 
half  way. 

Matters  grew  worse  and  worse.  The  sultan,  now  finding  me 
unable  to  move,  sent  a message  to  say  if  I would  not 

Halt,  Ylth.  . ’ _ , & , , ■ , 

give  him  some  better  cloths  to  make  his  hongo  more 
respectable,  he  would  attack  my  camp;  and  advised  all  the  Wan- 
yamuezi who  regarded  their  lives  not  to  go  near  me  if  I resisted. 
This  was  by  no  means  pleasant;  for  the  porters  showed  their  un- 
easiness by  extracting  their  own  cloths  from  my  bundles,  under 
the  pretext  that  they  wished  to  make  some  purchases  of  their 
own.  I ought,  perhaps,  to  have  stopped  this ; but  I thought  the 
best  plan  was  to  show  total  indifference;  so,  at  the  same  time  that 
they  were  allowed  to  take  their  cloths,  I refused  to  comply  with 
the  chief’s  request,  and  begged  them  to  have  no  fear  as  long  as 
they  saw  I could  hold  my  own  ground  with  my  guns. 

The  Wanyamuezi,  however,  were  panic-stricken,  and  half  of 
them  bolted,  with  the  kirangozi  at  their  head,  carrying  off  all  the 
double-ration  cloths  as  well  as  their  own.  At  this  time,  the  sul- 
tan, having  changed  tactics,  as  he  saw  us  all  ready  to  stand  on 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1860. 


the  defensive,  sent  back  his  hongo ; but,  instead  of  using  threats, 
said  he  would  oblige  us  with  donkeys  or  any  thing  else  if  we 
would  only  give  him  a few  more  pretty  cloths.  With  this  cring- 
ing, perfidious  appeal  I refused  to  comply,  until  the  sheikh,  still 
more  cringing,  implored  me  to  give  way,  else  not  a single  man 
would  remain  with  me.  I then  told  him  to  settle  with  the  chief 
himself,  and  give  me  the  account,  which  amounted  to  three  bar- 
sati,  two  sahari,  and  three  yards  merikani;  but  the  donkeys  were 
never  alluded  to. 

With  half  my  men  gone,  I still  ordered  the  march,  though 
strongly  opposed  to  the  advice  of  one  of  old  Mamba’s 

To  Camp,  13 tk.  i=)  J I 1 . 

men,  who  was  then  passing  by  on  his  way  to  the 
coast,  in  command  of  his  master’s  rear  detachment.  He  thought 
it  impossible  for  us  to  pull  through  the  wilderness,  with  its  jungle 
grasses  and  roots,  depending  for  food  only  on  Grant’s  gun  and 
my  own ; still  we  made  half  way  to  the  Mdabu.ru  nullah,  taking 
some  of  Mamba’s  out  to  camp  with  us,  as  he  promised  to  take 
letters  and  specimens  down  to  the  coast  for  us,  provided  I paid 
him  some  cloths  as  ready  money  down,  and  promised  some  more 
to  be  paid  at  Zanzibar.  These  letters  eventually  reached  home, 
but  not  the  specimens. 

The  rains  were  so  heavy  that  the  whole  country  was  now 
flooded,  but  we  pushed  on  to  the  nullah  by  relays, 

To  Camp,  14th.  7 j-  J J i 

and  pitched  on  its  left  bank.  In  the  confusion  of 
the  march,  however,  we  lost  many  more  porters,  who  at  the  same 
time  relieved  us  of  their  loads,  by  slipping  off  stealthily  into  the 
bush. 

The  fifteenth  was  a forced  halt,  as  the  stream  was  so  deep  and 
„ so  violent  we  could  not  cross  it.  To  make  the  best 

of  this  very  unfortunate  interruption,  I now  sent  on 
two  men  to  Kaz 6,  with  letters  to  Musa  and  Sheikh  Snay,  both 
old  friends  on  the  former  expedition,  begging  them  to  send  me 
sixty  men,  each  carrying  thirty  rations  of  grain,  and  some  country 
tobacco.  The  tobacco  was  to  gratify  my  men,  who  said  of  all 
things  they  most  wanted  to  cheer  them  was  something  to  smoke. 
At  the  same  time  I sent  back  some  other  men  to  Khoko,  with 
cloth  to  buy  grain,  for  present  consumption,  as  some  of  my  por- 
ters were  already  reduced  to  living  on  wild  herbs  and  white  ants. 
I then  set  all  the  remaining  men,  under  the  directions  of  Bombay 
and  Baraka,  to  fell  a tall  tree  with  hatchets,  on  the  banks  of  the 
nullah,  with  a view  to  bridging  it but  the  tree  dropped  to  the 


Dec.J 


MGUNDA  MKHALI. 


89 


wrong  side,  and  thwarted  the  plan.  The  rain  ceased  on  the  17th, 
just  as  we  put  the  rain-gauge  out,  which  was  at  once  interpreted 
to  be  our  Uganga,  or  religious  charm,  and  therefore  the  cause  of 
its  ceasing.  It  was  the  first  fine  day  for  a fortnight,  so  we  were 
only  too  glad  to  put  all  our  things  out  to  dry,  and  rejoiced  to 
think  of  the  stream’s  subsiding.  My  men  who  went  back  to 
Khoko  for  grain  haying  returned  with  next  to  nothing — though, 
of  course,  they  had  spent  all  the  cloths  — I sent  back  another 
batch  with  pretty  cloths,  as  it  was  confidently  stated  that  grain 
was  so  scarce  there,  nothing  but  the  best  fabrics  would  buy  it. 
This  also  proved  a dead  failure;  but,  although  animals  were  very 
scarce,  Grant  relieved  our  anxiety  by  shooting  a zebra  and  an 
antelope. 

After  five  halts  we  forded  the  stream,  middle  deep,  and  pushed 
Eight  successive  forward  again,  doing  short  stages  of  four  or  five  miles 
wilderness.  a day,  in  the  greatest  possible  contusion;  for,  while 
Grant  and  I were  compelled  to  go  out  shooting  all  day  for  the 
pot,  the  sheikh  and  Bombay  went  on  with  the  first  half  of  the 
property,  and  then,  keeping  guard  over  it,  sent  the  men  back 
again  to  Baraka,  who  kept  rear-guard,  to  have  the  rest  brought 
on.  Order  there  was  none;  the  men  hated  this  “double  work;” 
all  the  Wanyamuezi  but  three  deserted,  with  the  connivance  of 
the  coast-men,  carrying  off  their  loads  with  them,  under  a mutual 
understanding,  as  I found  out  afterward,  that  the  coast-men  were 
to  go  shares  in  the  plunder  as  soon  as  we  reached  Unyamudzi. 
The  next  great  obstacle  in  this  tug-and-pull  wilderness-march 
presented  itself  on  the  24th,  when,  after  the  first  half  of  the  prop- 
erty had  crossed  the  Mabungurii  nullah,  it  rose  in  flood  and  cut 
off  the  rear  half.  It  soon,  however,  subsided;  and  the  next  day 
we  reached  “the  Springs,”  where  we  killed  a pig  and  two  rhinoc- 
eros. Not  content,  however,  with  this  fare — notwithstanding  the 
whole  camp  had  been  living  liberally  on  zebra’s  and  antelope’s 
flesh  every  day  previously — some  of  my  coast-men  bolted  on  to 
the  little  settlement  of  Jiwa  la  Mkoa,  contrary  to  orders,  to  pur- 
chase some  grain,  and  in  doing  so  increased  our  transport  diffi- 
culties. 

Pulling  on  in  the  same  way  again — when  not  actually  engaged 
in  shooting,  scolding  and  storming  at  the  men,  to  keep  them  up 
to  the  mark,  and  prevent  them  from  shirking  their  work,  which 
they  were  forever  trying  to  do — we  arrived  on  the  28th  at  the 
“ Boss,”  a huge  granite  block,  from  the  top  of  which  the  green 


90 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


foliage  of  the  forest-trees  looked  like  an  interminable  cloud,  soft 
and  waving,  fit  for  fairies  to  dwell  upon.  Here  the  patience  of 
my  men  fairly  gave  way,  for  the  village  of  Jiwa  la  Mkoa  was  only 
one  long  march  distance  from  us,  and  they,  in  consequence,  smelt 
food  on  in  advance  much  sweeter  than  the  wild  game  and  wild 
grasses  they  had  been  living  on ; and  many  more  of  them  could 
not  resist  deserting  us,  though  they  might,  had  we  all  pulled  to- 
gether, have  gone  more  comfortably  in,  as  soon  as  the  rear  prop- 
erty arrived  next  day  with  Baraka. 

All  the  men  who  deserted  on  the  25th,  save  Johur  and  Miit- 
wana,  now  came  into  camp,  and  told  us  they  had 
heard  from  travelers  that  those  men  who  had  been 
sent  on  for  reliefs  to  Ivazd  were  bringing  us  a large  detachment 
of  slaves  to  help  us  on.  My  men  had  brought  no  food  either  for 
us  or  their  friends,  as  the  cloths  they  took  with  them,  “ which  were 
their  own,”  were  scarcely  sufficient  to  purchase  a meal — famines 
being  as  bad  where  they  had  been  as  in  Ugogo.  To  try  and  get 
all  the  men  together  again,  I now  sent  off  a party  loaded  with 
cloths  to  see  what  they  could  get  for  us;  but  they  returned  on 
the  30th  grinning  and  joking,  with  nothing  but  a small  fragment 
of  goat-flesh,  telling  lies  by  the  dozens.  Johur  then  came  into 
camp,  unconscious  that  Baraka  by  my  orders  had,  during  his  ab- 
sence, been  inspecting  his  kit,  where  he  found  concealed  seventy- 
three  yards  of  cloth,  which  could  only  have  been  my  property,  as 
Johur  had  brought  no  akaba  or  reserve  fund  from  the  coast. 

The  theft  having  been  proved  to  the  satisfaction  of  every  one, 
I ordered  Baraka  to  strip  him  of  every  thing  and  give  him  three 
dozen  lashes ; but  after  twenty -one  had  been  given,  the  rest  were 
remitted  on  his  promising  to  turn  queen’s  evidence,  when  it  tran- 
spired that  Mutwana  had  done  as  much  as  himself.  Johur,  it 
turned  out,  was  a murderer,  having  obtained  his  freedom  by  kill- 
ing his  master.  He  was  otherwise  a notoriously  bad  character; 
so,  wishing  to  make  an  example,  as  I knew  all  my  men  were  rob- 
bing me  daily,  though  I could  not  detect  them,  I had  him  turned 
out  of  camp.  Baraka  was  a splendid  detective,  and  could  do 
every  thing  well  when  he  wished  it,  so  I sent  him  off  now  with 
cloths  to  see  what  he  could  do  at  Jiwa  la  Mkoa,  and  next  day 
he  returned  triumphantly  driving  in  cows  and  goats.  Three 
Wanyamudzi,  also,  who  heard  we  were  given  to  shooting  wild 
animals  continually,  came  with  him  to  offer  their  services  as  por- 
ters. 


Jan.] 


MGUNDA  MKHALI. 


91 


As  nearly  all  the  men  had  now  returned,  Grant  and  I spent 
to  jiwa  ia Mkoa,  New  Year’s  Day  with  the  first  detachment  at  Jiwa  la 
lst • Mkoa,  or  Round  Rock — a single  tembe  village  occu- 

pied by  a few  Wakimbu  settlers,  who,  by  their  presence  and  do- 
mestic habits,  made  us  feel  as  though  we  were  well  out  of  the 
wood.  So  indeed  we  found  it ; for,  although  this  wilderness  was 
formerly  an  entire  forest  of  trees  and  wild  animals,  numerous  Wa- 
kimbu,  who  formerly  occupied  the  banks  of  the  Ruaha  to  the 


The  Tembe,  or  Mud  Village,  at  Jiwa  la  Mkoa. 


southward,  had  been  driven  to  migrate  here,  wherever  they  could 
find  springs  of  water,  by  the  boisterous  naked  pastorals  the  Wa- 
rori. 

At  night  three  slaves  belonging  to  Sheikh  Salem  bin  Saif  stole 
into  our  camp,  and  said  they  had  been  sent  by  their  master  to 
seek  for  porters  at  Kaze,  as  all  the  Wanyamuezi  porters  of  four 
large  caravans  had  deserted  in  Ugogo,  and  they  could  not  move. 
I was  rather  pleased  by  this  news,  and  thought  it  served  the  mer- 
chants right,  knowing,  as  I well  did,  that  the  Wanyamuezi,  being 
naturally  honest,  had  they  not  been  defrauded  by  foreigners  on 
the  down  march  to  the  coast,  would  have  been  honest  still.  Some 
provisions  were  now  obtained  by  sending  men  out  to  distant  vil- 
lages ; but  we  still  supplied  the  camp  with  our  guns,  killing  rhi- 
noceros, wild  boar,  antelope,  and  zebras.  The  last  of  our  prop- 
erty did  not  come  up  till  the  5th,  when  another  thief,  being  caught, 
got  fifty  lashes,  under  the  superintendence  of  Baraka,  to  show 
that  punishment  was  only  inflicted  to  prevent  farther  crime. 

The  next  day  my  men  came  from  Kazb  with  letters  from  Sheikh 


92 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


Halt  seven  days. 


Snay  and  Musa.  They  had  been  detained  there  some 
days  after  arrival,  as  those  merchants’  slaves  had  gone 
to  Utambara  to  settle  some  quarrel  there ; but  as  soon  as  they  re- 
turned, Musa  ordered  them  to  go  and  assist  us,  giving  them  beads 
to  find  rations  for  themselves  on  the  way,  as  the  whole  country 
about  Kazd  had  been  half  starved  by  famines,  though  he  did  send 
a little  rice  and  tobacco  for  me.  The  whole  party  left  Kazd  to- 
gether ; but  on  arrival  at  Tura  the  slaves  said  they  had  not  enough 
beads  and  would  return  for  some  more,  when  they  would  follow 
my  men.  This  bit  of  news  was  the  worst  that  could  have  be- 
fallen us ; my  men  were  broken-hearted  enough  before,  and  this 
drove  the  last  spark  of  spirit  out  of  them.  To  make  the  best  of 
a bad  job,  I now  sent  Bombay  with  two  other  men  off  to  Musa  to 
see  what  he  could  do,  and  ordered  my  other  men  to  hire  Wakimbu 
from  village  to  village.  On  the  7th,  a nervous  excitement  was 
produced  in  the  camp  by  some  of  my  men  running  in  and  calling 
all  to  arm,  as  the  fugitive  chief  Manila  Sera  was  coming,  with 
thirty  armed  followers  carrying  muskets.  Such  was  the  case; 
and  by  the  time  my  men  were  all  under  arms,  with  their  sword- 
bayonets  fixed,  drawn  up  by  my  tent,  the  veritable  “Tippler” 
arrived ; but,  not  liking  the  look  of  such  a formidable  array  as 
my  men  presented,  he  passed  on  a short  way,  and  then  sent  back 
a deputation  to  make  known  his  desire  of  calling  on  me,  which 
was  no  sooner  complied  with  than  he  came  in  person,  attended  by 
a body-guard.  On  my  requesting  him  to  draw  near  and  sit,  his 
wooden  stool  was  placed  for  him.  He  began  the  conversation  by 
telling  me  he  had  heard  of  my  distress  from  want  of  porters,  and 
then  offered  to  assist  me  with  some,  provided  I would  take  him 
to  Kaze,  and  mediate  between  him  and  the  Arabs ; for,  through 
their  unjustifiable  interference  in  his  government  affairs  a war 
had  ensued,  which  terminated  with  the  Arabs  driving  him  from 
his  possessions  a vagabond.  Manila  Sdra,  I must  say,  was  as  fine 
a young  man  as  ever  I looked  upon.  He  was  very  handsome, 
and  looked,  as  I now  saw  him,  the  very  picture  of  a captain'of  the 
banditti  of  the  romances.  I begged  him  to  tell  me  his  tale,  and, 
in  compliance,  he  gave  me  the  following  narrative : 

“ Shortly  after  you  left  Kaze  for  England,  my  old  father,  the 
late  chief  Eundi  Kira,  died,  and  by  his  desire  I became  lawful 
chief ; for,  though  the  son  of  a slave  girl,  and  not  of  Fundi  Kira’s 
wife,  such  is  the  law' of  inheritance — a constitutional  policy  estab- 
lished to  prevent  any  chance  of  intrigues  between  the  sons  born 


Jan.] 


MGUNDA  MKHALI. 


93 


in  legitimate  wedlock.  Well,  after  assuming  the  title  of  chief,  I 
gave  presents  of  ivory  to  all  the  Arabs  with  a liberal  hand,  but 
most  so  to  Musa,  which  caused  great  jealousy  among  the  other 
merchants.  Then,  after  this,  I established  a property  tax  on  all 
merchandise  that  entered  my  country.  Fundi  Kira  had  never 
done  so,  but  I did  not  think  that  any  reason  why  I should  not, 
especially  as  the  Arabs  were  the  only  people  who  lived  in  my 
country  exempt  from  taxation.  This  measure,  however,  exas- 
perated the  Arabs,  and  induced  them  to  send  me  hostile  messages, 
to  the  effect  that,  if  I ever  meddled  with  them,  they  would  de- 
throne me,  and  place  Mkisiwa,  another  illegitimate  son,  on  the 
throne  in  my  stead.  This,”  Manila  Sera  continued,  “ I could  not 
stand  ; the  merchants  were  living  on  sufferance  only  in  my  coun- 
try. I told  them  so,  and  defied  them  to  interfere  with  my  orders, 
for  I was  not  a ‘ woman,7  to  be  treated  with  contempt ; and  this 
got  up  a quarrel.  Mkisiwa,  seizing  at  the  opportunity  of  the 
prize  held  out  to  him  by  the  Arabs  as  his  supporters,  then  com- 
menced a system  of  bribery.  Words  led  to  blows;  we  had  a 
long  and  tough  fight ; I killed  many  of  their  number,  and  they 
killed  mine.  Eventually  they  drove  me  from  my  palace,  and 
placed  Mkisiwa  there  as  chief  in  my  stead.  My  faithful  follow- 
ers, however,  never  deserted  me ; so  I went  to  Bubuga,  and  put 
up  with  old  Maiila  there.  The  Arabs  followed  — drove  me  to 
Ngu.ru,  and  tried  to  kill  Maiila  for  having  fostered  me.  He,  how- 
ever, escaped  them  ; but  they  destroyed  his  country,  and  then  fol- 
lowed me  down  to  Ngii#u.  There  we  fought  for  many  months, 
until  all  provisions  were  exhausted,  when  I defied  them  to  catch 
me,  and  forced  my  way  through  their  ranks.  It  is  needless  to 
say  I have  been  a wanderer  since ; and  though  I wish  to  make 
friends,  they  will  not  allow  it,  but  do  all  they  can  to  hunt  me  to 
death.  Now,  as  you  were  a friend  of  my  father,  I do  hope  you 
will  patch  up  this  war  for  me,  which  you  must  think  is  unjust.” 

I told  Manila  Sera  I felt  very  much  for  him,  and  I would  do 
my  best  if  he  would  follow  me  to  Kaze ; but  I knew  that  nothing 
could  ever  be  done  unless  he  returned  to  the  free-trade  principles 
of  his  father.  He  then  said  he  had  never  taken  a single  tax  from 
the  Arabs,  and  would  gladly  relinquish  his  intention  to  do  so. 
The  whole  affair  was  commenced  in  too  great  a hurry ; but,  what- 
ever happened,  he  would  gladly  forgive  all  if  I would  use  my  in- 
fluence to  reinstate  him,  for  by  no  other  means  could  he  ever  get 
his  crown  back  again.  I then  assured  him  that  I would  do  what 


94 


TIIE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


I could  to  restore  the  ruined  trade  of  his  country,  observing  that, 
as  all  the  ivory  that  went  out  of  his  country  came  to  ours,  and  all 
imports  were  productions  of  our  country  also,  this  war  injured  us 
as  well  as  himself.  Manua  Sera  seemed  highly  delighted,  and 
said  he  had  a little  business  to  transact  in  Ugogo  at  present,  but 
he  would  overtake  me  in  a few  days.  He  then  sent  me  one  of 
my  runaway  porters,  whom  he  had  caught  in  the  woods  making 
off  with  a load  of  my  beads.  . We  then  separated;  and  Baraka, 
by  my  orders,  gave  the  thief  fifty  lashes  for  his  double  offense  of 
theft  and  desertion. 

On  the  9th,  having  bought  two  donkeys  and  engaged  several 

men,  we  left  Jiwa  la  Mkoa  with  half  our  traps,  and 

To  Garadswi,  Otli.  , 1 ~ ^ . , , 

Halt,  mh.  marched  to  Oaraeswi,  where,  to  my  surprise,  there 

To  Zimbo,  ll£7i.  , 

iiait,  12th  and  were  as  many  as  twenty  tembes — a recently-iormed 

13th.  ^ J J 

settlement  of  Wakimbu.  Here  we  halted  a day  for 
the  rear  convoy,  and  then  went  on  again  by  detachments  to  Zim- 
bo, where,  to  our  intense  delight,  Bombay  returned  to  us  on  the 
loth,  triumphantly  firing  guns,  with  seventy  slaves  accompanying 
him,  and  with  letters  from  Snay  and  Musa,  in  which  they  said 
they  hoped,  if  I met  with  Manila  Sbra,  that  I would  either  put  a 
bullet  through  his  head,  or  else  bring  him  in  a prisoner,  that  they 
might  do  for  him,  for  the  scoundrel  had  destroyed  all  their  trade 
by  cutting  off  caravans.  Their  fights  with  him  commenced  by 
his  levying  taxes  in  opposition  to  their  treaties  with  his  father, 
Fundi  Kira,  and  then  preventing  his  subjects  selling  them  grain. 

Once  more  the  whole  caravan  moved  on ; but  as  I had  to  pay 
To  Mgongo  each  °f  the  seventy  slaves  sixteen  yards  of  cloth,  by 
Thembo,  nth.  orc[er  0f  their  masters,  in  the  simple  matter  of  ex- 
penditure it  would  have  been  better  had  I thrown  ten  loads  away 
at  Ugogo,  where  my  difficulties  first  commenced.  On  arrival  at 
Mgongo  Thembo  — the  Elephant’s  Back  — called  so  in  conse- 
quence of  a large  granitic  rock,  which  resembles  the  back  of  that 
animal,  protruding  through  the  ground — we  found  a clearance  in 
the  forest,  of  two  miles  in  extent,  under  cultivation.  Here  the 
first  man  to  meet  me  was  the  fugitive  chief  of  Rubuga,  Maula. 
This  poor  old  man — one  of  the  honestest  chiefs  in  the  country — 
had  been  to  the  former  expedition  a host  and  good  friend.  He 
now  gave  me  a cow  as  a present,  and  said  he  would  give  me  ten 
more  if  I would  assist  him  in  making  friends  with  the  Arabs,  who 
had  driven  him  out  of  his  country,  and  had  destroyed  all  his  be- 
longings, even  putting  a slave  to  reign  in  his  stead,  though  he 


Jan.] 


MGUNDA  MKHALL. 


95 


To  Camp,  15th. 


To  E.  Tura,  1 Qth. 


hud  committed  no  fault  or  intentional  injury  toward  them.  It 
was  true  Manila  Sera,  their  enemy,  had  taken  refuge  in  his  palace, 
but  that  was  not  his  fault;  for,  anticipating  the  difficulties  that 
would  arise,  he  did  his  best  to  keep  Manila  Sera  out  of  it;  but 
Manua  Sera,  being  too  strong  for  him,  forced  his  -way  in.  I need 
not  say  I tided  to  console  this  unfortunate  victim  of  circumstances 
as  best  I could,  inviting  him  to  go  with  me  to  Kaze,  and  promis- 
ing to  protect  him  with  my  life  if  he  feared  the  Arabs ; but  the 
old  man,  being  too  feeble  to  travel  himself,  said  he  would  send  his 
son  with  me. 

Next  day  we  pushed  on  a double  march  through  the  forest,  and 
reached  a nullah.  As  it  crosses  the  track  in  a south- 
ernly  direction,  this  might  either  be  the  head  of  the 
Kululu  mongo  or  river,  which,  passing  through  the  district  of 
Kiwele,  drains  westward  into  the  Malagarazi  Eiver,  and  thence 
into  the  Tanganyika,  or  else  the  most  westerly  tributary  to  the 
Ruaha  Eiver,  draining  eastward  into  the  sea.  The  plateau,  how- 
ever, is  apparently  so  flat  here,  that  nothing  but  a minute  survey, 
or  rather  following  the  water-course,  could  determine  the  matter. 

Then  emerging  from  the  wilderness,  we  came  into 
the  open  cultivated  district  of  Tura,  or  “ put  down” 
— called  so  by  the  natives  because  it  was,  only  a few  years  ago, 
the  first  cleared  space  in  the  wilderness,  and  served  as  a good  halt- 
ing-station, after  the  normal  ten  days’  march  in  the  jungles,  where 
we  had  now  been  struggling  more  than  a month. 

The  whole  place,  once  so  fertile,  was  now  almost  depopulated 
and  in  a sad  state  of  ruin,  showing  plainly  the  savage  ravages  of 
war;  for  the  Arabs  and  their  slaves,  when  they  take  the  field, 
think  more  of  plunder  and  slavery  than  the  object  they  started 
on,  each  man  of  the  force  looking  out  for  himself.  The  incen- 
tives, too,  are  so  great — a young  woman  might  be  caught  (the 
greatest  treasure  on  earth),  or  a boy  or  a girl,  a cow  or  a goat — 
all  of  them  fortunes,  of  themselves  too  irresistible  to  be  overlook- 
ed when  the  future  is  doubtful.  Here  Sheikh  Said  broke  down 
in  health  of  a complaint  which  he  formerly  had  suffered  from, 
and  from  which  I at  once  saw  he  would  never  recover  sufficient- 
ly well  to  be  ever  effective  again.  It  was  a sad  misfortune,  as  the 
men  had  great  confidence  in  him,  being  the  representative  of  their 
Zanzibar  government ; still  it  could  not  be  helped ; for,  as  a sick 
man  is,  after  all,  the  greatest  possible  impediment  to  a march,  it 
was  better  to  be  rid  of  him  than  have  the  trouble  of  dragging 


[1861. 


96  THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 

him ; so  I made  up  my  mind,  as  soon  as  we  reached  Kazd,  I would 
drop  him  there  with  the  Arabs.  He  could  not  be 

To  W.  Tura,  11th.  1 . . T , . ...  . 

moved  on  the  loth,  so  1 marched  across  the  plain  and 
put  up  in  some  villages  on  its  western  side.  While  waiting  for 
the  sheikh’s  arrival,  some  villagers  at  night  stole  several  loads  of 
beads,  and  ran  off  with  them ; but  my  men,  finding  the  theft  out 
in  time,  hunted  them  down,  and  recovered  all  but  one  load ; for 
the  thieves  had  thrown  their  loads  down  as  soon  as  they  found 
they  were  hotly  pursued. 

Early  this  morning  I called  all  the  head  men  of  the  village  to- 
gether, and  demanded  the  beads  to  be  restored  to  me; 
for,  as  I was  living  with  them,  they  were  responsible, 
according  to  the  laws  of  the  country.  They  acknowledged  the 
truth  and  force  of  my  demand,  and  said  they  would  each  give  me 
a cow  as  an  earnest,  until  their  chief,  who  was  absent,  arrived. 
This,  of  course,  was  objected  to,  as  the  chief,  in  his  absence,  must 
have  deputed  some  one  to  govern  for  him,  and  I expected  him  to 
settle  at  once,  that  I might  proceed  with  the  march.  Then  select- 
ing five  of  my  head  men  to  conduct  the  case,  with  five  of  their 
elders,  it  was  considered  my  losses  were  equivalent  to  thirty  head 
of  cattle.  As  I remitted  the  penalty  to  fifteen  head,  these  were 
made  over  to  me,  and  we  went  on  with  the  march,  all  feeling  de- 
lighted with  the  issue  but  the  Hottentots,  who,  not  liking  the  loss 
of  the  second  fifteen  cows,  said  that  in  Kafirland,  where  the  laws 
of  the  country  are  the  same  as  here,  the  whole  would  have  been 
taken,  and,  as  it  was,  they  thought  I was  depriving  them  of  their 
rights  to  beef. 

By  a double  march,  the  sheikh  riding  in  a hammock  slung  on 
a pole,  we  now  made  Kuale,  or  “Partridge”  nullah, 

To  Camp,  19£7i.  r.  . ’ ° ’ 

toe. KuMga,  which,  crossing  the  road  to  the  northward,  drains 
these  lands  to  the  Malagarazi  River,  and  thence  into 
the  Tanganyika  Lake.  Thence,  having  spent  the  night  in  the 
jungle,  we  next  morning  pushed  into  the  cultivated  district  of 
Rubuga,  and  put  up  in  some  half-deserted  tembes,  where  the  rav- 
ages of  war  were  even  more  disgusting  to  witness  than  at  Tura. 
The  chief,  as  I have  said,  was  a slave,  placed  there  by  the  Arabs 
on  the  condition  that  he  would  allow  all  traders  and  travelers  to 
help  themselves  without  payment  as  long  as  they  chose  to  reside 
there.  In  consequence  of  this  wicked  arrangement,  I found  it 
impossible  to  keep  my  men  from  picking  and  stealing.  They 
looked  upon  plunder  as  their  fortune  and  right,  and  my  interfe- 
rence as  unjustifiable. 


MGUNDA  MKHALI. 


97 


Jan.] 

By  making  another  morning  and  evening  march,  we  then 
reached  the  western  extremity  of  this  cultivated 
2i°sAV’  Eubuga’  opening,  where,  after  sleeping  the  night,  we  threaded 
to  e.  LTnylnV  through  another  forest  to  the  little  clearance  of  Kigue, 
and  in  one  more  march  through  forest  arrived  in  the 
large  and  fertile  district  of  Unyanyembb,  the  centre  of  U-n-ya- 
muezi — the  Land  of  the  Moon — within  five  miles  of  Kaze,  which 
is  the  name  of  a well  in  the  village  of  Tabora,  now  constituted 
the  great  central  slave  and  ivory  merchants’  depot.  My  losses 
up  to  this  date  (23d)  were  as  follows:  one  Hottentot  dead  and 
five  returned;  one  freeman  sent  back  with  the  Hottentots,  and 
one  flogged  and  turned  off ; twenty-five  of  Sultan  Majid’s  garden- 
ers deserted;  ninety-eight  of  the  original  Wanyamuezi  porters 
deserted ; twelve  mules  and  three  donkeys  dead.  Besides  which, 
more  than  half  of  my  property  had  been  stolen  ; while  the  trav- 
eling expenses  had  been  unprecedented,  in  consequence  of  the 
severity  of  the  famine  throughout  the  whole  length  of  the  march. 


View  in  Eastern  TTnyanyemlie. 

Gr 


98 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


CHAPTER  V. 


U-N-YA-MUEZI. 

The  Country  and  People  of  U-n-ya-mtiezi. — Kaze',  the  Capital. — Old  Mtisa. — The 
naked  Wakidi. — The  N’yanza,  and  the  Question  of  the  River  running  in  or  out. 
— The  Contest  between  Mohinna  and  “Short-legs.” — Famine.— The  Arabs  and 
Local  Wars. — The  Sultana  of  Unyambewa. — Ungdrue  “the  Pig.” — Pillage. 

U-N-YA-muezi — Country  of  the  Moon — must  have  been  one  of 
the  largest  kingdoms  of  Africa.  It  is  little  inferior  in  size  to  En- 
gland, and  of  much  the  same  shape,  though  now,  instead  of  being 
united,  it  is  cut  up  into  petty  states.  In  its  northern  extremities 
it  is  known  by  the  appellation  U-sukuma — country  north ; and 


Myamu6zi,  or  Native  of  Unyamitezi. 


in  the  southern,  U-takama — country  south.  There  are  no  histor- 
ical traditions  known  to  the  people ; neither  was  any  thing  ever 
written  concerning  their  country,  as  far  as  we  know,  until  the 
Hindus,  who  traded  with  the  east  coast  of  Africa,  opened  com- 
mercial dealings  with  its  people  in  slaves  and  ivory,  possibly  some 
time  prior  to  the  birth  of  our  Savior,  when,  associated  with  their 
name,  Men  of  the  Moon,  sprang  into  existence  the  Mountains  of 
the  Moon.  These  Men  of  the  Moon  are  hereditarily  the  greatest 


Jan.] 


UNYAMUEZI. 


99 


traders  in  Africa,  and  are  the  only  people  who,  for  love  of  barter 
and  change,  will  leave  their  own  country  as  porters  and  go  to  the 
coast,  and  they  do  so  with  as  much  zest  as  our  country-folk  go  to 
a fair.  As  far  back  as  we  can  trace  they  have  done  this,  and  they 
still  do  it  as  heretofore.  The  whole  of  their  country  ranges  from 
3000  to  4000  feet  above  the  sea-level — a high  plateau,  studded 
with  little  outcropping  hills  of  granite,  between  which,  in  the  val- 
leys, there  are  numerous  fertilizing  springs  of  fresh  water,  and 
rich  iron  ore  is  found  in  sandstone.  Generally  industrious — much 
more  so  than  most  other  neg roes -STkey^CTritiva'te ' extensively, 
InakeTcloths  of  cotton  in  their  own  looms,  smelt  iron  and  work  it 
up  very  expertly,  build  tembes  to  live  in  over  a large  portion  of 
their  country,  but  otherwise  live  in  grass  huts,  and  keep  flocks 
and  herds  of  considerable  extent. 

The  TVanyamuezi,  however,  are  not  a very  well-favored  peo- 
ple in  physical  appearance,  and  are  much  darker  than  either  the 
Wazaramo  or  the  Wagogo,  though  many  of  their  men  are  hand- 
some and  their  women  pretty ; neither  are  they  well  dressed  or 
well  armed,  being  wanting  in^pluck -and- gallantry.  Their  wom- 
en, generally,  are  better  dressed  than  the  men.'  Cloths  fastened 
round  under  the  arms  are  their  national  costume,  along  with  a 
necklace  of  beads,  large  brass  or  copper  wire  armlets,  and  a pro- 
fusion of  thin  circles,  called  sambo,  made  of  the  giraffe’s  tail-hairs 
bound  round  by  the  thinnest  iron  or  copper  wire ; while  the  men 
at  home  wear  loin-cloths,  but  in  the  field,  or  while  traveling,  sim- 
ply hang  a goatskin  over  their  shoulders,  exposing  at  least  three 
fourths  of  their  body  in  a rather  indecorous  manner.  In  all  other 
respects  they  ornament  themselves  like  the  women,  only,  instead 
of  a long  coil  of  wire  wound  up  the  arm,  they  content  themselves 
with  having  massive  rings  of  copper  or  brass  on  the  wrist ; and 
they  carry  for  arms  a spear  and  bow  and  arrows.  All  extract 
more  or  less  their  lower  incisors,  and  cut  a A between  their  two 
upper  incisors.  The  whole  tribe  are  desperate  smokers,  and  great- 
ly given  to  drink. 

On  the  24th,  we  all,  as  many  as  were  left  of  us,  marched  into 

the  merchants’  depot,  S.  lat.  5°  O'  52",  and  E.  long. 

To  Kazc,  24 th.  -*■  7 7 

33°  V 34",*  escorted  by  Musa,  who  advanced  to  meet 

* It  may  be  as  well  to  remark  here,  that  the  figures,  both  in  latitude  and  longi- 
tude, representing  the  position  of  Kaze,  computed  by  Mr.  Dunkin,  accord  with  what 
appeared  in  “Blackwood’s  Magazine,”  computed  by  myself,  and  in  the  R.  G.  S. 
Journal  Map,  computed  by  Captain  George. 


100 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


us,  and  guided  us  into  bis  tembe,  where  he  begged  we  would  re- 
side with  him  until  we  could  find  men  to  carry  our  property  on 
to  Karague.  He  added  that  he  would  accompany  us;  for  he 
was  on  the  point  of  going  there  when  my  first  installment  of  prop- 
erty arrived,  but  deferred  his  intention  out  of  respect  to  myself. 
He  had  been  detained  at  Kaze  ever  since  I last  left  it  in  conse- 
quence of  the  Arabs  having  provoked  a war  with  Manila  Sera, 
to  which  he  was  adverse.  For  a long  time  also  he  had  been  a 
chained  prisoner;  as  the  Arabs,  jealous  of  the  favor  Manila  Sera 
had  shown  to  him  in  preference  to  themselves,  basely  accused 
him  of  supplying  Manila  Sera  with  gunpowder,  and  bound  him 
hand  and  foot  “ like  a slave.”  It  was  delightful  to  see  old  Musa’s 
face  again,  and  the  supremely  hospitable,  kind,  and  courteous  man- 
ner in  which  he  looked  after  us,  constantly  bringing  in  all  kind 
of  small  delicacies,  and  seeing  that  nothing  was  wanting  to  make 
us  happy.  All  the  property  I had  sent  on  in  advance  he  had 
stored  away ; or  rather,  I should  say,  as  much  as  had  reached  him, 
for  the  road  expenses  had  eaten  a great  hole  in  it. 


Front  View  of  Musa’s  Tembe  at  Kazo. 


Once  settled  down  into  position,  Sheikh  Snay  and  the  whole 
conclave  of  Arab  merchants  came  to  call  on  me.  They  said  they 
had  an  army  of  four  hundred  slaves  armed  with  muskets  ready 
to  take  the  field  at  once  to  hunt  down  Manila  Sera,  who  was  cut- 

This  applies  also  to  the  position  of  Ujiji ; at  any  rate,  the  practical  differences  are 
so  trifling  that  it  would  require  a microscope  to  detect  them  on  the  map. 


WAG  AND  A WAR  INSTRUMENTS. 


1.  Warrior.  4.  Men's  wreaths.  9.  King’s  amulet  of  12, 13, 14.  Charms. 

2.  Ivory  ornaments  for  5.  Head  ornaments.  beads.  15.  Spears. 

legs.  6.  Shield  and  spears.  10.  Necklaces.  16  Anklet  of  serpent  skin 

3.  King’s  leg  ornaments.  7,  S.  Necklaces.  11.  Woman’s  dirk.  and  bolt  of  wood. 


I 

) 


Jan.] 


UNYAMUEZI. 


105 


ting  their  caravan  road  to  pieces,  and  had  just  seized,  by  their 
latest  reports,  a whole  convoy  of  their  ammunition.  I begged 
them  strongly  to  listen  to  reason,  and  accept  my  advice  as  an  old 
soldier,  not  to  carry  on  their  guerrilla  warfare  in  such  a headlong 
hurry,  else  they  would  be  led  a dance  by  Manua  Sera,  as  we  had 
been  by  Tantia  Topee  in  India.  I advised  them  to  allow  me  to 
mediate  between  them,  after  telling  them  what  a favorable  inter- 
view I had  had  with  Manua  Sera  and  Maula,  whose  son  was  at 
that  moment  concealed  in  Musa’s  tembe.  My  advice,  however, 
was  not  wanted.  Snay  knew  better  than  any  one  how  to  deal 
with  savages,  and  determined  on  setting  out  as  soon  as  his  army 
had  “ eaten  their  beef-feast  of  war.” 

On  my  questioning  him  about  the  Nile,  Snay  still  thought  the 
N’yanza  was  the  source  of  the  Jub  River,*  as  he  did  in  our  former 
journey,  but  gave  way  when  I told  him  that  vessels  frequented 
the  Nile,  as  this  also  coincided  with  his  knowledge  of  navigators 
in  vessels  appearing  on  some  waters  to  the  northward  of  Unyo ra- 
in a great  hurry  he  then  bade  me  good-by ; when,  as  he  thought 
it-would  be  final,  I gave  him,  in  consideration  for  his  former  good 
services  to  the  last  expedition,  one  of  the  gold  watches  given  me 
by  the  Indian  government.  I saw  him  no  more,  though  he  and 
all  the  other  Arabs  sent  me  presents  of  cows,  goats,  and  rice,  with 
a notice  that  they  should  have  gone  on  their  war-path  before, 
only,  hearing  of  my  arrival,  out  of  due  respect  to  my  greatness, 
they  waited  to  welcome  me  in.  Further,  after  doing  for  Manua 
Sera,  they  were  determined  to  go  on  to  Ugogo  to  assist  Salem  bin 
Saif  and  the  other  merchants  on,  during  which,  at  the  same  time, 
they  would  fight  all  the  Wagogo  who  persisted  in  taking  taxes 
and  in  harassing  their  caravans.  At  the  advice  of  Musa,  I sent 
Maula’s  son  off  at  night  to  tell  the  old  chief  how  sorry  I was  to 
find  the  Arabs  so  hot-headed  I could  not  even  effect  an  arrange- 
ment with  them.  It  was  a great  pity ; for  Manua  Sera  was  so 
much  liked  by  the  Wanyamuezi,  they  would,  had  they  been  able, 
have  done  any  thing  to  restore  him. 

Next  day  the  non-belligerent  Arabs  left  in  charge  of  the  sta- 
„ , tion,  headed  by  my  old  friends  Abdulla  and  Mohin- 

na,  came  to  pay  their  respects  again,  recognizing  in 
me,  as  they  said,  a “ personification  of  their  sultan,”  and  therefore 
considering  what  they  were  doing  only  due  to  my  rank.  They 

* The  J ub  is  the  largest  river  known  to  the  Zanzibar  Arabs.  It  debouches  on  the 
east  coast  north  of  Zanzibar,  close  under  the  equator. 


106 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861 


regretted  with  myself  that  Snay  was  so  hot-headed;  for  they 
themselves  thought  a treaty  of  peace  would  have  been  the  best 
thing  for  them,  for  they  were  more  than  half  ruined  already,  and 
saw  no  hope  for  the  future.  Then,  turning  to  geography,  I told 
Abdulla  all  I had  written  and  lectured  in  England  concerning 
his  stories  about  navigators  on  the  N’yanza,  which  I explained 
must  be  the  Nile,  and  wished  to  know  if  I should  alter  it  in  any 
way ; but  he  said,  “ Do  not ; you  may  depend  it  will  all  turn  out 
right;”  to  which  Musa  added,  all  the  people  in  the  north  told  him 
that  when  the  N’yanza  rose,  the  stream  rushed  with  such  violence 
it  tore  up  islands  and  floated  them  away. 

I was  puzzled  at  this  announcement,  not  then  knowing  that  both 
the  lake  and  the  Nile,  as  well  as  all  ponds,  were  called  N’yanza ; 
but  we  shall  see  afterward  that  he  was  right;  and  it  was  in  con- 
sequence of  this  confusion  in  the  treatment  of  distinctly  different 
geographical  features  under  one  common  name  by  these  people 
that  in  my  former  journey  I could  not  determine  where  the  lake 
ended  and  the  Nile  began.  Abdulla  again — he  had  done  so  on 
the  former  journey — spoke  to  me  of  a wonderful  mountain  to  the 
northward  of  Karague,  so  high  and  steep  no  one  could  ascend 
it.  It  was,  he  said,  seldom  visible,  being  up  in  the  clouds,  where 
white  matter,  snow  or  hail,  often  fell.  Musa  said  this  hill  was  in 
Ruanda,  a much  larger  country  than  Urundi;  and  farther,  both 
men  said,  as  they  had  said  before,  that  the  lands  of  Usoga  and 
Unyoro  were  islands,  being  surrounded  by  water;  and  a salt 
lake,  which  was  called  N’yanza,  though  not  the  great  Victoria 
N’yanza,  lay  on  the  other  side  of  Unyoro,  from  which  direction 
Rumanika,  king  of  Karague,  sometimes  got  beads  forwarded  to 
him  by  Kamrasi,  king  of  Unyoro,  of  a different  sort  from  any 
brought  from  Zanzibar.  Moreover,  these  beads  were  said  to  have 
been  plundered  from  white  men  by  the  Wakidi — a stark-naked 
people  who  live  up  in  trees — have  small  stools  fixed  on  behind, 
always  ready  for  sitting — wear  their  hair  hanging  down  as  far  as 
the  rump,  all  covered  with  cowrie-shells  — suspend  beads  from 
wire  attached  to  their  ears  and  their  lower  lips — and  wear  strong 
iron  collars  and  bracelets. 

This  people,  I was  told,  are  so  fierce  in  war  that  no  other  tribe 
can  stand  against  them,  though  they  only  fight  with  short  spears. 
When  this  discourse  was  ended,  ever  perplexed  about  the  Tan- 
ganyika being  a still  lake,  I inquired  of  Mohinna  and  other  old 
friends  what  they  thought  about  the  Marungu  River:  did  it  run 


UNYAMUEZI. 


107 


Jan.] 

into  or  out  of  the  lake  ? and  they  all  still  adhered  to  its  running 
into  the  lake ; which,  after  all,  in  my  mind,  is  the  most  conclusive 
argument  that  it  does  run  out  of  the  lake,  making  it  one  of  a 
chain  of  lakes  leading  to  the  N’yassa,  and  through  it  by  the  Zam- 
bezi into  the  sea;  for  all  the  Arabs  on  the  former  journey  said 
the  Rusizi  River  ran  out  of  the  Tanganyika,  as  also  the  Kitangule 
ran  out  of  the  IST’yanza,  and  the  Nile  ran  into  it,  even  though 
Snay  said  he  thought  the  Jub  River  drained  the  N’yanza.  All 
these  statements  were,  when  literally  translated  into  English,  the 
rewerse  of  what  the  speakers,  using  a peculiar  Arab  idiom,  meant 
to  say  ; for  all  the  statements  made  as  to  the  flow  of  rivers  by  the 
negroes — who  apparently  give  the  same  meaning  to  “out”  and 
“in”  as  we  do — contradicted  the  Arabs  in  their  descriptions  of 
the  direction  of  the  flow  of  these  rivers. 

Mohinna  now  gave  us  a very  graphic  description  of  his  fight 
with  Short-legs,  the  late  chief  of  Khoko.  About  a year  ago,  as  he 
was  making  his  way  down  to  the  coast  with  his  ivory  merchan- 
dise, on  arrival  at  Khoko,  and  before  his  camp  was  fortified  with  a 
ring-fence  of  thorns,  some  of  his  men  went  to  drink  at  a well, 
where  they  no  sooner  arrived  than  the  natives  began  to  beat  them 
with  sticks,  claiming  the  well  as  their  property.  This  commenced 
a row,  which  brought  out  a large  body  of  men,  who  demanded  a 
bullock  at  the  point  of  their  spears.  Mohinna  hearing  this,  also 
came  to  the  well,  and  said  he  would  not  listen  to  their  demand, 
but  would  drink  as  he  wished,  for  the  water  was  the  gift  of  God. 
Words  then  changed  to  blows.  All  Mohinna’s  pagazis  bolted, 
and  his  merchandise  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Wagogo.  Had  his 
camp  been  fortified,  he  thinks  he  would  have  been  too  much  for 
his  enemies ; but,  as  it  was,  he  retaliated  by  shooting  Short-legs  in 
the  head,  and  at  once  bolted  back  to  Kaze  with  a few  slaves  as 
followers,  and  his  three  wives. 

The  change  that  had  taken  place  in  Unyanyembe  since  I last 
left  it  was  quite  surprising.  Instead  of  the  Arabs  appearing  mer- 
chants, as  they  did  formerly,  they  looked  more  like  great  farmers, 
with  huge  stalls  of  cattle  attached  to  their  houses,  while  the  na- 
tive villages  were  all  in  ruins — so  much  so  that,  to  obtain  corn  for 
my  men,  I had  to  send  out  into  the  district  several  days’  journey 
off,  and  even  then  had  to  pay  the  most  severe  famine  prices  for 
what  I got.  The  Wanyamuezi,  I was  assured,  were  dying  of 
starvation  in  all  directions ; for,  in  addition  to  the  war,  the  last 
rainy  season  had  been  so  light,  all  their  crops  had  failed. 


108 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


21th  and  28 th.  1 now  gave  all  my  men  presents  for  the  severe 
trials  they  had  experienced  in  the  wilderness,  forgetting,  as  I told 
them,  the  merciless  manner  in  which  they  had  plundered  me ; but 
as  I gave  a trifle  more,  in  proportion,  to  the  three  sole  remaining 
pagazis,  because  they  had  now  finished  their  work,  my  men  were 
all  discontented,  and  wished  to  throw  back  their  presents,  saying 
I did  not  love  them,  although  they  were  “ perminents,”  as  much 
as  the  “ temperaries.”  They,  however,  gave  in,  after  some  hours 
of  futile  arguments,  on  my  making  them  understand,  through 
Baraka,  that  what  they  saw  me  give  to  the  pagazis  would,  if  t]rey 
reflected,  only  tend  to  prove  to  them  that  I was  not  a bad  master 
who  forgot  his  obligations  when  he  could  get  no  more  out  of  his 
servants. 

I then  went  into  a long  inquiry  with  Musa  about  our  journey 
northward  to  Karague ; and  as  he  said  there  were  no  men  to  be 
found  in  or  near  Unyanyembe,  for  they  were  either  all  killed  or 
engaged  in  the  war,  it  was  settled  he  should  send  some  of  his  head 
men  on  to  Rungua,  where  he  had  formerly  resided,  trading  for 
some  years,  and  was  a great  favorite  with  the  chief  of  the  place, 
by  name  Kirin guana.  lie  also  settled  that  I might  take  out  of 
his  establishment  of  slaves  as  many  men  as  I could  induce  to  go 
with  me,  for  he  thought  them  more  trouble  than  profit,  hired  por- 
ters being  more  safe;  moreover,  he  said  the  plan  would  be  of 
great  advantage  to  him,  as  I offered  to  pay  both  man  and  master 
each  the  same  monthly  stipend  as  I gave  my  present  men.  This 
was  paying  double,  and  all  the  heavier  a burden,  as  the  number 
I should  require  to  complete  my  establishment  to  one  hundred 
armed  men  would  be  sixty.  He,  however,  very  generously  ad- 
vised me  not  to  take  them,  as  they  would  give  so  much  trouble, 
but  finally  gave  way  when  I told  him  I felt  I could  not  advance 
beyond  Karague  unless  I was  quite  independent  of  the  natives 
there — a view  in  which  he  concurred. 

2f )th  and  30 th.  Jafu,  another  Indian  merchant  here,  and  copart- 
ner of  Musa,  came  in  from  a ten  days’  search  after  grain,  and  de- 
scribed the  whole  country  to  be  in  the  most  dreadful  state  of  fam- 
ine. Wanyamuezi  were  lying  about  dead  from  starvation  in  all 
directions,  and  he  did  not  think  we  should  ever  get  through  Usui, 
as  Suwarora,  the  chief,  was  so  extortionate  he  would  “tear  us  to 
pieces but  advised  our  waiting  until  the  war  was  settled,  when 
all  the  Arabs  would  combine  and  go  with  us.  Musa  even  show- 
ed fear,  but  arranged,  at  my  suggestion,  that  he  should  send  some 


UNYAMUEZI. 


109 


Jan.] 

men  to  Rumanika,  informing  him  of  our  intention  to  visit  him, 
and  begging,  at  the  same  time,  be  would  use  his  influence  in  pre- 
venting our  being  detained  in  Usui. 

I may  here  explain  that  the  country  Uzinza  was  once  a large 
kingdom,  governed  by  a king  named  Rama,  of  Wakuma  blood. 
At  his  death,  which  took  place  in  Dagara’s  time  (the  present  Ru- 
manika’s  father),  the  kingdom  was  contested  by  his  two  sons,  Ro- 
hinda  and  Suwarora,  but,  at  the  intercession  of  Dagara,  was  di- 
vided— Rohinda  taking  the  eastern,  called  Ukhanga,  and  Suwa- 
rora the  western  half  of  the  country,  called  Usui.  This  measure 
made  Usui  feudatory  to  Karague,  so  that  much  of  the  produce  of 
the  extortions  committed  in  Usui  went  to  Karague,  and  therefore 
they  were  recognized,  though  the  odium  always  rested  on  Suwa- 
rora, “ the  savage  extortioner,”  rather  than  on  the  mild-disposed 
King  of  Karague,  who  kept  up  the  most  amicable  relations  with 
every  one  who  visited  him. 

Musa,  I must  say,  was  most  loud  in  his  praises  of  Riimanika ; 
and,  on  the  other  hand,  as  Musa,  eight  years  ago,  had  saved  Ru- 
manika’s  throne  for  him  against  an  insurrection  got  up  by  his 
younger  brother  Rogero,  Rumanika,  always  regarding  Musa  as 
his  savior,  never  lost  an  opportunity  to  show  his  gratitude,  and 
would  have  done  any  thing  that  Musa  might  have  asked  him. 
Of  this  matter,  however,  more  in  Karague. 

3l5i.  To-day,  Jafu,  who  had  lost  many  ivories  at  Khoko  when 
Mohinna  was  attacked  there,  prepared  100  slaves,  with  Said  bin 
Osman,  Mohinna’s  brother,  with  a.  view  to  follow  down  Snay, 
and,  combining  forces,  attack  Hori  Hori,  hoping  to  recover  their 
losses;  for  it  appeared  to  them  the  time  had  now  come  when  their 
only  hope  left  in  carrying  their  trade  to  a successful  issue  lay  in 
force  of  arms.  They  would,  therefore,  not  rest  satisfied  until  they 
had  reduced  Khoko  and  Usekhe  both,  by  actual  force,  to  acknowl- 
edge their  superiority,  “feeding  on  them”  until  the  Ramazan, 
when  they  would  return  with  all  the  merchants  detained  in  Ugo- 
go,  and,  again  combining  their  forces,  they  would  fall  on  Usui,  to 
reduce  that  country  also. 

When  these  men  had  gone,  a lunatic  set  the  whole  place  in 
commotion.  He  was  a slave  of  Musa’s,  who  had  wounded  some 
men  previously  in  his  wild  excesses,  and  had  been  tied  up ; but 
now,  breaking  loose  again,  he  swore  he  would  not  be  satisfied 
until  he  killed  some  “big  man.”  His  strength  was  so  great  no 
one  could  confine  him,  though  they  hunted  him  into  a hut,  where, 


110 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


Laving  seized  a gun  and  some  arrows,  Le  defied  any  one  to  put 
Lands  on  Lim.  Here,  Lowever,  Le  was  at  last  reduced  to  submis- 
sion and  a better  state  of  Lis  senses  by  starvation ; for  I must 
add,  the  African  is  mucL  given  to  such  mental  fits  of  aberration 
at  certain  periods : these  are  generally  harmless,  but  sometimes 
not;  but  they  come  and  they  go  again  without  any  visible  cause. 

Is/.  Musa’s  men  now  started  for  Rungua,  and  promised  to  bring 
all  the  porters  we  wanted  by  the  first  day  of  the  next  moon.  We 
found  that  this  would  be  early  enough,  for  all  the  members  of  the 
expedition,  excepting  myself,  were  suffering  from  the  effects  of 
the  wilderness  life — some  with  fever,  some  with  scurvy,  and  some 
with  ophthalmia — which  made  it  desirable  they  should  all  have 
rest.  Little  now  was  done  besides  counting  out  my  property, 
and  making  Sheikh  Said,  who  became  worse'  and  worse,  deliver 
his  charge  of  Cafila  Bashi  over  to  Bombay  for  good.  When  it 
was  found  so  much  had  been  stolen,  especially  of  the  best  articles, 
I was  obliged  to  purchase  many  things  from  Musa,  paying  400 
per  cent.,  which  he  said  was  their  value  here,  over  the  market 
price  of  Zanzibar.  I also  got  him  to  have  all  my  coils  of  brass 
and  copper  wire  made  into  bracelets,  as  is  customary,  to  please 
the  northern  people. 

7 tli.  To-day  information  was  brought  here  that  while  Manua 
Sera  was  on  his  way  from  Ugogo  to  keep  his  appointment  with 
me,  Sheikh  Snay’s  army  came  on  him  at  Tura,  where  he  was  en- 
sconced in  a tembd.  Hearing  this,  Snay,  instead  of  attacking  the 
village  at  once,  commenced  negotiations  with  the  chief  of  the 
place  by  demanding  him  to  set  free  his  guest,  otherwise  they,  the 
Arabs,  would  storm  the  tembe.  The  chief,  unfortunately,  did  not 
comply  at  once,  but  begged  grace  for  one  night,  saying  that  if 
Manua  Sera  was  found  there  in  the  morning  they  might  do  as 
they  liked.  Of  course  Manua  bolted  ; and  the  Arabs,  seeing  the 
Tura  people  all  under  arms  ready  to  defend  themselves  the  next 
morning,  set  at  them  in  earnest,  and  shot,  murdered,  or  plundered 
the  whole  of  the  district.  Then,  while  Arabs  were  sending  in 
their  captures  of  women,  children,  and  cattle,  Manua  Sera  made 
off  to  a district  called  Dara,  where  he  formed  an  alliance  with  its 
chief,  Kifunja,  and  boasted  he  would  attack  Kaze  as  soon  as  the 
traveling  season  commenced,  when  the  place  would  be  weakened 
by  the  dispersion  of  the  Arabs  on  their  ivory  excursions. 

This  startling  news  set  the  place  in  a blaze,  and  brought  all  the 
Arabs  again  to  seek  my  advice;  for  they  condemned  what  Snay 


UNYAMUEZI. 


Ill 


Feb.] 

had  done  in  not  listening  to  me  before,  and  wished  to  know  if  I 
could  not  now  treat  for  them  with  Manua  Sera,  which  they  thought 
could  be  easily  managed,  as  Manila  Sera  himself  was  not  only  the 
first  to  propose  mediation,  but  was  actually  on  his  way  here  for 
the  purpose  when  Snay  opposed  him.  I said  nothing  could  give 
me  greater  pleasure  than  mediating  for  them,  to  put  a stop  to 
these  horrors,  but  it  struck  me  the  case  had  now  gone  too  far. 
Snay,  in  opposition  to  my  advice,  was  bent  on  fighting ; he  could 
not  be  recalled ; and  unless  all  the  Arabs  were  of  one  mind,  I ran 
the  risk  of  committing  myself  to  a position  I could  not  maintain. 
To  this  they  replied  that  the  majority  were  still  at  Kaze,  all  wish- 
ing for  peace  at  any  price,  and  that  whatever  terms  I might  wish 
to  dictate  they  would  agree  to.  Then  I said,  “What  would  you 
do  with  Mkisiwa?  You  have  made  him  chief,  and  can  not  throw 
him  over.”  “Oh,  that,”  they  said,  “can  be  easily  managed;  for 
formerly,  when  we  confronted  Manila  Sera  at  Nguru,  we  offered 
to  give  him  as  much  territory  as  his  father  governed,  though  not 
exactly  in  the  same  place ; but  he  treated  our  message  with  dis- 
dain, not  knowing  then  what  a fix  he  was  in.  Now,  however,  as 
he  has  seen  more-,  and  wishes  for  peace  himself,  there  can  be  no 
difficulty.”  I then  ordered  two  of  my  men  to  go  with  two  of 
Musa’s  to  acquaint  Manua  Sera  with  what  we  were  about,  and  to 
know  his  views  on  the  subject;  but  these  men  returned  to  say 
Manua  Sera  could  not  be  found,  for  he  was  driven  from  “pillar 
to  post”  by  the  different  native  chiefs,  as,  wherever  he  went,  his 
army  ate  up  their  stores,  and  brought  nothing  but  calamities  with 
them.  Thus  died  this  second  attempted  treaty.  Musa  then  told 
me  it  was  well  it  turned  out  so,  for  Manua  Sera  would  never  be- 
lieve the  Arabs,  as  they  had  broken  faith  so  often  before,  even 
after  exchanging  blood  by  cutting  incisions  in  one  another’s  legs 
— the  most  sacred  bond  or  oath  the  natives  know  of. 

As  nothing  more  of  importance  was  done,  I set  out  with  Grant 
to  have  a week’s  shooting  in  the  district,  under  the 
N>ma,  mh  to  guidance  of  an  old  friend,  Fundi  Sangoro,  Musa’s 
“head  gamekeeper,”  who  assured  me  that  the  sable 
antelope  and  blanc  boc,  specimens  of  which  I had  not  yet  seen, 
inhabited  some  low  swampy  place  called  N’yama,  or  “Meat,”  not 
far  distant,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Wale  nullah.  My  companion 
unfortunately  got  fever  here,  and  was  prevented  from  going  out, 
and  I did  little  better ; for,  although  I waded  up  to  my  middle 
every  day,  and  wounded  several  blanc  boc,  I onty  bagged  one, 


112 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


and  should  not  have  got  even  him  had  it  not  happened  that  some 
lions  in  the  night  pulled  him  down  close  to  our  camp,  and  roared 
so  violently  that  they  told  us  the  story.  The  first  thing  in  the 
morning  I wished  to  have  at  them ; but  they  took  the  hint  of 
daybreak  to  make  off,  and  left  me  only  the  half  of  the  animal.  I 
saw  only  one  sable  antelope.  We  all  went  back  to  Kaze,  arriving 
there  on  the  24tb. 

2 5th  to  13th.  Days  rolled  on,  and  nothing  was  done  in  particu- 
lar— beyond  increasing  my  stock  of  knowledge  of  distant  places 
and  people,  enlarging  my  zoological  collection,  and  taking  long 
series  of  astronomical  observations  — until  the  13th,  when  the 
whole  of  Kaze  was  depressed  by  a sad  scene  of  mourning  and 
tears.  Some  slaves  came  in  that  night,  having  made  their  way 
through  the  woods  from  Ugogo,  avoiding  the  track  to  save  them- 
selves from  detection,  and  gave  information  that  Snay,  Jafu,  and 
five  other  Arabs  had  been  killed,  as  well  as  a great  number  of 
slaves.  The  expedition,  they  said,  had  been  defeated,  and  the 
positions  were  so  complicated  nobody  knew  what  to  do.  At  first 
the  Arabs  achieved  two  brilliant  successes,  having  succeeded  in 
killing  Hori  Hori  of  Khoko,  when  they  recovered  their  ivory, 
made  slaves  of  all  they  could  find,  and  took  a vast  number  of 
cattle ; then  attacking  Usekhd,  they  reduced  that  place  to  sub- 
mission by  forcing  a ransom  out  of  its  people.  At  this  period, 
however,  they  heard  that  a whole  caravan,  carrying  5000  dollars’ 
worth  of  property,  had  been  cut  up  by  the  people  of  Mzanza,  a 
small  district  ten  miles  north  of  Usekke ; so,  instead  of  going  on 
to  Kanyenye  to  relieve  the  caravans  which  were  waiting  there 
for  them,  they  foolishly  divided  their  forces  into  three  parts.  Of 
these  they  sent  one  to  take  their  loot  back  to  Kazb,  another  to 
form  a reserve  force  at  Mdaburu,  on  the  east  flank  of  the  wilder- 
ness, and  a third,  headed  by  Snay  and  Jafu,  to  attack  Mzanza. 
At  the  first  onset  Snay  and  Jafu  carried  every  thing  before  them, 
and  became  so  excited  over  the  amount  of  their  loot  that  they 
lost  all  feelings  of  care  or  precaution. 

In  this  high  exuberance  of  spirits,  a sudden  surprise  turned 
their  momentary  triumph  into  a total  defeat;  for  some  Wahumba, 
having  heard  the  cries  of  the  Wagogo,  joined  in  their  cause,  and 
both  together  fell  on  the  Arab  force  with  such  impetuosity  that 
the  former  victors  were  now  scattered  in  all  directions.  Those 
who  could  run  fast  enough  were  saved ; the  rest  were  speared  to 
death  by  the  natives.  Nobody  knew  how  Jafu  fell ; but  Snay, 


Feb.-Mabch.] 


UNYAMUEZI. 


113 


after  running  a short  distance,  called  one  of  his  slaves,  and  begged 
him  to  take  his  gun,  saying,  “ I am  too  old  to  keep  up  with  you; 
keep  this  gun  for  my  sake,  for  I will  lie  down  here  and  take  my 
chance.”  He  never  was  seen  again.  But  this  was  not  all  their 
misfortunes ; for  the  slaves  who  brought  in  this  information  had 
met  the  first  detachment,  sent  with  the  Khoko  loot,  at  Kigua, 
where,  they  said,  the  detachment  had  been  surprised  by  Manua 
Sdra,  who,  having  fortified  a village  with  four  hundred  men,  ex- 
pecting this  sort  of  thing,  rushed  out  upon  them,  and  cut  them 
all  up. 

The  Arabs,  after  the  first  burst  of  their  grief  was  over,  came  to 
me  again  in  a body,  and  begged  me  to  assist  them,  for  they  were 
utterly  undone.  Manua  Sera  prevented  their  direct  communica- 
tion with  their  detachment  at  Mdaburu,  and  that  again  was  cut 
off  from  their  caravans  at  Kanyenye  by  the  Mzanza  people,  and, 
in  fact,  all  the  AVagogo;  so  they  hoped  at  least  I would  not  for- 
sake them,  which  they  heard  I was  going  to  do,  as  Manua  Sera 
had  also  threatened  to  attack  Kazd.  I then  told  them,  finally, 
that  their  proposals  were  now  beyond  my  power,  for  I had  a 
duty  to  perform  as  well  as  themselves,  and  in  a day  or  two  I 
should  be  off. 

14 th  to  17th.  On  the  14th  thirty-nine  porters  were  brought  in 
from  Rungua  by  Musa’s  men,  who  said  they  had  collected  one 
hundred  and  twenty,  and  brought  them  to  within  ten  miles  of 
this,  when  some  travelers  frightened  all  but  thirty-nine  away  by 
telling  them,  “Are  you  such  fools  as  to  venture  into  Kaze  now? 
All  the  Arabs  have  been  killed,  or  were  being  cut  up  and  pur- 
sued by  Manua  Sera.”  This  sad  disappointment  threw  me  on  my 
“beam-ends.”  For  some  reason  or  other,  none  of  Musa’s  slaves 
would  take  service,  and  the  Arabs  prevented  theirs  from- leaving 
the  place,  as  it  was  already  too  short  of  hands.  To  do  the  best 
under  these  circumstances,  I determined  on  going  to  Rungua 
with  what  kit  could  be  carried,  leaving  Bombay  behind  with 
Musa  until  such  time  as  I should  arrive  there,  and,  finding  more 
men,  could  send  them  back  for  the  rest.  I then  gave  Musa  the 
last  of  the  gold  watches  the  Indian  government  had  given  me;* 
and,  bidding  Sheikh  Said  take  all  our  letters  and  specimens  back 
to  the  coast  as  soon  as  the  road  was  found  practicable,  set  out  on 
the  march  northward  with  Grant  and  Baraka,  and  all  the  rest  of 

* The  two  first  gold  watches  were  given  away  at  Zanzibar. 

H 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


114 


[1861. 


Break  ground, 
11th. 

To  Masangd, 
18  !h. 

To  Iviri,  19 th. 
ISnter  Usagari, 
20th. 

Cross  Gombe 
nullah,  21sJ. 


my  men  who  were  well  enough  to  carry  loads,  as  well  as  some  of 
Musa’s  head  men,  who  knew  where  to  get  porters. 

After  passing  Masange  and  Zimbili,  we  put  up  a night  in  the 
village  of  Iviri,  on  the  northern  border  of  Unyan- 
yembe,  and  found  several  officers  there,  sent  by 
Mkisiwa,  to  enforce  a levy  of  soldiers  to  take  the 
field  with  the  Arabs  at  Kaze  against  Manila  Sera; 
to  effect  which,  they  walked  about  ringing  bells,  and 
bawling  out  that  if  a certain  percentage  of  all  the  inhabitants  did 
not  muster,  the  village  chief  would  be  seized,  and  their  planta- 
tions confiscated.  My  men  all  mutinied  here  for  increase  of  ra- 
tion allowances.  To  find  themselves  food  with,  I had  given  them 
all  one  necklace  of  beads  each  per  diem  since  leaving  Kaze,  in 
lieu  of  cloth,  which  hitherto  had  been  served  out  for  that  pur- 
pose. It  was  a very  liberal  allowance,  because  the  Arabs  never 
gave  more  than  one  necklace  to  every  three  men,  and  that,  too, 
of  inferior  quality  to  what  I served.  I brought  them  to  at  last 
by  starvation,  and  then  we  went  on.  Dipping  down  into  a valley 
between  two  clusters  of  granitic  hills,  beautifully  clothed  with 
trees  and  grass,  studded  here  and  there  with  rich  plantations,  we 
entered  the  district  of  Usagari,  and  on  the  second  day  forded  the 
Grombe  nullah  again — in  its  upper  course,  called  Kuale. 

Rising  again  up  to  the  main  level  of  the  plantation,  we  walked 
Toungugu’s  into  the  boma  of  the  chief  of  Unyambewa,  Singinya, 
I’aiace, 2>d.  whose  wife  was  my  old  friend  the  late  sultana  Un- 
gugix’s  lady’s-maid.  Immediately  on  our  entering  her  palace, 
she  came  forward  to  meet  me  with  the  most  affable  air  of  a prin- 
cess, begged  I would  always  come  to  her  as  I did  then,  and  sought 
to  make  every  one  happ}^  and  comfortable.  Her  old  mistress, 
she  said,  died  well  stricken  in  years ; and,  as  she  had  succeeded 
her,  the  people  of  her  country  invited  Singinya  to  marry  her,  be- 
cause feuds  had  arisen  about  the  rights  of  succession  ; and  it  was 
better  a prince,  whom  they  thought  best  suited  by  birth  and  good 
qualities,  should  head  their  warriors,  and  keep  all  in  order.  At 
that  moment  Singinya  was  out  in  the  field  fighting  his  enemies ; 
and  she  was  sure,  when  he  heard  I was  here,  that  he  would  be 
very  sorry  he  had  missed  seeing  me. 

We  next  went  on  to  the  district  of  Ukumbi,  and  put  up  in  a 
village  there,  on  approaching  which  all  the  villagers 
turned  out  to  resist  us,  supposing  we  were  an  old 
enemy  of  theirs.  They  flew  about  brandishing  their  spears,  and 


To  Usenda,  23i. 


March.] 


UNYAMUEZI. 


115 


pulling  their  bows  in  the  most  grotesque  attitudes,  alarming  some 
of  mj  porters  so  much  that  they  threw  down  their  loads  and 
bolted.  All  the  country  is  richly  cultivated,  though  Indian  corn 
at  that  time  was  the  only  grain  ripe.  The  square,  flat-topped 
tembes  had  now  been  left  behind,  and  instead  the  villagers  lived 
in  small  collections  of  grass  huts,  surrounded  by  palisades  of  tall 
poles. 

Proceeding  on,  we  put  up  at  the  small  settlement  of  Usenda, 
the  proprietor  of  which  was  a semi-negro  Arab  merchant  called 
Sangoro.  He  had  a large  collection  of  women  here,  but  had  him- 
self gone  north  with  a view  to  trade  in  Karague.  Report,  how- 
ever, assured  us  that  he  was  then  detained  in  Usui  by  Suwarora, 
its  chief,  on  the  plea  of  requiring  his  force  of  musketeers  to  pre- 
vent the  Watuta  from  pillaging  his  country,  for  these  Watuta 
lived  entirely  on  plunder  of  other  people’s  cattle. 

With  one  move,  by  alternately  crossing  strips  of  forest  and  cul- 
tivation, studded  here  and  there  with  small  hills  of 

To  Mininga,  2ith.  . 

granite,  we  lorded  the  Quande  nullah,  a tributary  to 
the  Grombe,  and  entered  the  rich  flat  district  of  Mininga,  where 
the  gingerbread-palm  grows  abundantly.  The  greatest  man  we 
found’ here  was  a broken-down  ivory-merchant  called  Sirboko, 
who  gave  us  a good  hut  to  live  in.  Next  morning,  I believe  at 
the  suggestion  of  my  Wanguana,  with  Baraka  at  their  head,  he 
induced  me  to  stop  there;  for  he  said  Rungua  had  been  very  re- 
cently destroyed  by  the  Watuta,  and  this  place  could  afford  por- 
ters better  than  it.  To  all  appearance  this  was  the  case,  for  this 
district  was  better  cultivated  than  any  place  I had  seen.  I also 
felt  a certain  inclination  to  stop,  as  I was  dragging  on  sick  men, 
sorely  against  my  feelings ; and  I also  thought  I had  better  not 
go  farther  away  from  my  rear  property;  but,  afraid  of  doing 
wrong  in  not  acting  up  to  Musa’s  directions,  I called  up  his  head 
men  who  were  with  me,  and  asked  them  what  they  thought  of 
the  matter,  as  they  had  lately  come  from  Rungua.  On  their  con- 
firming Sirboko’s  story,  and  advising  my  stopping,  I acceded  to 
their  recommendation,  and  immediately  gave  Musa’s  men  orders 
to  look  out  for  porters. 

Hearing  this,  all  my  Wanguana  danced  with  delight;  and  I, 
fearing  there  was  some  treachery,  called  Musa’s  men  again,  saying 
I had  changed  my  mind,  and  wished  to  go  on  in  the  afternoon ; 
but  when  the  time  came,  not  one  of  our  porters  could  be  seen. 
There  was  now  no  help  for  it ; so,  taking  it  coolly,  I gave  Musa’s 


116 


TIIE  SOURCE  OF  TIIE  NILE. 


[1861. 


men  presents,  begged  them  to  look  sharp  in  getting  the  men  up, 
and  trusted  all  would  end  well  in  the  long  run.  Sirboko’s  atten- 
tions were  most  warm  and  affecting.  He  gave  us  cows,  rice,  and 
milk,  with  the  best  place  he  had  to  live  in,  and  looked  after  us  as 
constantly  and  tenderly  as  if  he  had  been  our  father.  It  seemed 
quite  unjust  to  harbor  any  suspicion  against  him. 

He  gave  the  following  account  of  himself:  He  used  to  trade 
in  ivory  on  account  of  some  Arabs  at  Zanzibar.  On  crossing 
Usui,  he  once  had  a fight  with  one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  country 
and  killed  him  ; but  he  got  through  all  right,  because  the  natives, 
after  two  or  three  of  their  number  had  been  killed,  dispersed,  and 
feared  to  come  near  his  musket  again.  He  visited  Uganda  when 
the  late  king  Sunna  was  living,  and  even  traded  with  Usoga  ; but 
as  he  was  coming  down  from  these  northern  countries  he  lost  all 
his  property  by  a fire  breaking  out  in  a village  he  stopped  in, 
which  drove  him  down  here  a ruined  man.  As  it  happened, 
however,  he  put  up  with  the  chief  of  this  district,  Ugali — Mr. 
Paste — at  a time  when  the  W atuta  attacked  the  place  and  drove 
all  the  inhabitants  away.  The  chief,  too,  was  on  the  point  of  bolt- 
ing, when  Sirboko  prevented  him  by  saying,  “ If  you  will  only 
have  courage  to  stand  by  me,  the  Watuta  shall  not  come  near ; at 
any  rate,  if  they  do,  let  us  both  die  together.”  The  Watuta  at 
that  time  surrounded  the  district,  crowning  all  the  little  hills  over- 
looking it ; but,  fearing  the  Arabs’  guns  might  be  many,  they  soon 
walked  away  and  left  them  in  peace.  In  return  for  this  magna- 
nimity, and  feeling  a great  security  in  fire-arms,  Ugali  then  built 
the  large  inclosure,  with  huts  for  Sirboko,  we  were  now  living  in. 
Sirboko,  afraid  to  return  to  the  coast  lest  he  should  be  apprehend- 
ed for  debt,  has  resided  here  ever  since,  doing  odd  jobs  for  other 
traders,  increasing  his  family,  and  planting  extensively.  His  ag- 
ricultural operations  are  confined  chiefly  to  rice,  because  the  na- 
tives do  not  like  it  enough  to  be  tempted  to  steal  it. 

25 th  to  2 cl  I now  set  to  work,  collecting,  stuffing,  and  drawing, 
until  the  2d,  when  Musa’s  men  came  in  with  three  hundred  men, 
whom  I sent  on  to  Kaze  at  once  with  my  specimens  and  letters, 
directing  Musa  and  Bombay  to  come  on  and  join  us  immediately. 
While  waiting  for  these  men’s  return,  one  of  Sirboko’s  slaves, 
chained  up  by  him,  in  the  most  piteous  manner  cried  out  to  me, 
“Hai  Bana  wangi,  Bana  wangi  (Oh,  my  lord,  my  lord),  take  pity 
on  me!  When  I was  a free  man  I saw  you  at  Uvira,  on  the 
Tanganyika  Lake,  when  you  were  there;  but  since  then  the  Wa- 


» 


March-  April.] 


UNYAMUEZI. 


119 


tuta,  in  a fight  at  Ujiji,  speared  me  all  over  and  left  me  for  dead, 
when  I was  seized  by  the  people,  sold  to  the  Arabs,  and  have 
been  in  chains  ever  since.  Oh,  I say,  Bana  wangi,  if  you  would 
only  liberate  me  I would  never  run  away,  but  would  serve  you 
faithfully  all  my  life.”  This  touching  appeal  was  too  strong  for 
my  heart  to  withstand,  so  I called  up  Sirboko,  and  told  him,  if  he 
would  liberate  this  one  man  to  please  me,  he  should  be  no  loser ; 
and  the  release  was  effected.  He  was  then  christened  Farhan 
(Joy),  and  was  enrolled  in  my  service  with  the  rest  of  my  freed 
men.  I then  inquired  if  it  was  true  the  Wabembe  were  canni- 
bals, and  also  circumcised.  In  one  of  their  slaves  the  latter  state- 
ment was  easily  confirmed.  I was  assured  that  he  was  a canni- 
bal; for  the  whole  tribe  of  Wabembe,  when  they  can  not  get  hu- 
man flesh  otherwise,  give  a goat  to  their  neighbors  for  a sick  or 
dying  child,  regarding  such  flesh  as  the  best  of  all.  Ho  other 
cannibals,  however,  were  known  of ; but  the  Masai,  and  their  cog- 
nates, the  Wahumba,  Watatiiru,  Wakasange,  Wanyaramba,  and 
even  the  Wagogo  and  Wakimbu,  circumcise. 

On  the  15th  I was  surprised  to  find  Bombay  come  in  with  all 
my  rear  property  and  a great  quantity  of  Musa’s,  but  without  the 
old  man.  By  a letter  from  Sheikh  Said  I then  found  that,  since 
my  leaving  Kaze,  the  Arabs  had,  along  with  Mkisiwa,  invested 
the  position  of  Manua  Sera  at  Kigue,  and  forced  him  to  take 
flight  again.  Afterward  the  Arabs,  returning  to  Kaze,  found 
Musa  preparing  to  leave.  Angry  at  this  attempt  to  desert  them, 
they  persuaded  him  to  give  up  his  journey  north  for  the  present ; 
so  that  at  the  time  Bombay  left,  Musa  was  engaged  as  public  auc- 
tioneer in  selling  the  effects  of  Snay,  Jafu,  and  others,  but  private- 
ly said  he  would  follow  me  on  to  Karague  as  soon  as  his  rice  was 
cut.  Adding  a little  advice  of  his  own,  Sheikh  Said  pressed  me 
to  go  on  with  the  journey  as  fast  as  possible,  because  all  the  Arabs 
had  accused  me  of  conspiring  with  Manua  Sera,  and  would  turn 
against  me  unless  I soon  got  away. 

2 cl  to  30th.  Disgusted  with  Musa’s  vacillatory  conduct,  on  the 
22d  I sent  him  a letter  containing  a bit  of  my  mind.  I had  given 
him,  as  a present,  sufficient  cloth  to  pay  for  his  porters,  as  well  as 
a watch  and  a good  sum  of  money,  and  advised  his  coming  on  at 
once,  for  the  porters  who  had  just  brought  in  my  rear  property 
would  not  take  pay  to  go  on  to  Karague ; and  so  I was  detained 
again,  waiting  while  his  head  man  went  to  Rungua  to  look  for 
more.  Five  days  after  this,  a party  of  Sangoro’s  arrived  from 


120 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


Karagud,  saying  they  had  been  detained  three  months  in  Usui  by 
Suwarora,  who  had  robbed  them  of  an  enormous  quantity  of  prop- 
erty, and  oppressed  them  so  that  all  their  porters  ran  away.  Now, 
slight  as  this  little  affair  might  appear,  it  was  of  vital  importance 
to  me,  as  I found  all  my  men  shaking  their  heads  and  predicting 
what  might  happen  to  us  when  we  got  there ; so,  as  a forlorn 
hope,  I sent  Baraka  with  another  letter  to  Musa,  offering  to  pay 
as  much  money  for  fifty  men  carrying  muskets  as  would  buy  fifty 
slaves,  and,  in  addition  to  that,  I offered  to  pay  them  what  my 
men  were  receiving  as  servants.  Next  day  (23d)  the  chief  Ugali 
came  to  pay  his  respects  to  us.  He  was  a fine-looking  young 
man,  about  thirty  years  old,  the  husband  of  thirty  wives,  but  he 
had  only  three  children.  Much  surprised  at  the  various  articles 
composing  our  kit,  he  remarked  that  our  “sleeping-clothes”  — 
blankets  — were  much  better  than  his  royal  robes ; but  of  all 
things  that  amused  him  most  were  our  picture-books,  especially 
some  birds  drawn  by  Wolf. 

Every  thing  still  seemed  going  against  me ; for  on  the  follow- 
ing day  (24th)  Musa’s  men  came  in  from  Bungua  to  say  the  Wa- 
tuta  were  “out.”  They  had  just  seized  fifty  head  of  cattle  from 
Bungua,  and  the  people  were  in  such  a state  of  alarm  they  dared 
not  leave  their  homes  and  families.  I knew  not  what  to  do,  for 
there  was  no  hope  left  but  in  what  Baraka  might  bring;  and  as 
that  even  would  be  insufficient,  I sent  Musa’s  men  into  Kaze,  to 
increase  the  original  number  by  thirty  men  more.  ■ 

Patience,  thank  God,  I had  a good  stock  of,  so  I waited  quietly 
until  the  30th,  when  I was  fairly  upset  by  the  arrival  of  a letter 
from  Kaze,  stating  that  Baraka  had  arrived,  and  had  been  very 
insolent  both  to  Musa  and  to  Sheikh  Said.  The  bearer  of  the 
letter  was  at  once  to  go  and  search  for  porters  at  Bungua,  but  not 
a word  was  said  about  the  armed  men  I had  ordered.  At  the 
same  time  reports  from  the  other  side  came  in,  to  the  effect  that 
the  Arabs  at  Kaze  and  Msene  had  bribed  the  Watuta  to  join 
them,  and  overrun  the  whole  country  from  Ugogo  to  Usui;  and, 
m consequence  of  this,  all  the  natives  on  the  line  I should  have 
to  take  were  in  such  dread  of  that  terrible  wandering  race  of  sav- 
ages,  who  had  laid  waste  in  turn  all  the  lands  from  N’yassa  to 
Usui  on  their  west  flank,  that  not  a soul  dared  leave  his  home. 
I could  now  only  suppose  that  this  foolish  and  hasty  determina- 
tion of  the  Arabs,  who,  quite  unprepared  to  carry  out  their  wick- 
ed alliance  to  fight,  still  had  set  every  one  against  their  own  in- 


May.] 


UNYAMUEZI. 


121 


terests  as  well  as  mine,  had  not  reached  Musa,  so  I made  up  my 
mind  at  once  to  return  to  Kaze,  and  settle  all  matters  I had  in 
heart  with  himself  and  the  Arabs  in  person. 

This  settled,  I next,  in  this  terrible  embarrassment,  determined 
on  sending  back  the  last  of  the  Hottentots,  as  all  four  of  them, 
though  still  wishing  to  go  on  with  me,  distinctly  said  they  had 
not  the  power  to  continue  the  march,  for  they  had  never  ceased 
suffering  from  fever  and  jaundice,  which  had  made  them  all  yel- 
low as  guineas,  save  one,  who  was  too  black  to  change  color.  It 
felt  to  me  as  if  I were  selling  my  children,  having  once  under- 
taken to  lead  them  through  the  journey ; but  if  I did  not  send 
them  back  then,  I never  could  afterward,  and  therefore  I allowed 
the  more  substantial  feelings  of  humanity  to  overcome  these  com- 
punctions. 

Next  morning,  then,  after  giving  the  Tots  over  in  charge  of 
March  back  to  some  men  to  escort  them  on  to  Kaze  quietly,  I set 
Kaze,  1st  and  2d.  ou^  mjSelf  with  a dozen  men,  and  the  following  even- 
ing I put  up  with  Musa,  who  told  me  Baraka  had  just  left  with- 
out one  man,  all  his  slaves  having  become  afraid  to  go,  since  the 
news  of  the  Arab  alliance  had  reached  Kaze.  Suwarora  had  or- 
dered his  subjects  to  run  up  a line  of  bomas  to  protect  his  fron- 
tier, and  had  proclaimed  his  intention  to  kill  every  coast-man  who 
dared  attempt  to  enter  Usui.  My  heart  was  ready  to  sink  as  I 
turned  into  bed,  and  I was  driven  to  think  of  abandoning  every 
body  who  was  not  strong  enough  to  go  on  with  me  carrying  a 
load. 

3d  to  1 3th.  Baraka,  hearing  I had  arrived,  then  came  back  to 
me,  and  confirmed  Musa’s  words.  The  Arabs,  too,  came  flocking 
in  to  beg,  nay,  implore  me  to  help  them  out  of  their  difficulties. 
Many  of  them  were  absolutely  ruined,  they  said ; others  had 
their  houses  full  of  stores  unemployed.  At  Ugogo  those  who 
wished  to  join  them  were  unable  to  do  so,  for  their  porters,  what 
few  were  left,  were  all  dying  of  starvation ; and  at  that  moment 
Manila  Sera  was  hovering  about,  shooting,  both  night  and  day,  all 
the  poor  villagers  in  the  district,  or  driving  them  away.  Would 
to  God,  they  said,  I would  mediate  for  them  with  Manua  Sera — 
they  were  sure  I would  be  successful — and  then  they  would  give 
me  as  many  armed  men  as  I liked.  Their  folly  in  all  their  ac- 
tions, I said,  proved  to  me  that  any  thing  I might  attempt  to  do 
would  be  futile,  for  their  alliance  with  the  Watuta,  when  they 
were  not  prepared  to  act,  at  once  damned  them  in  my  eyes  as 


122 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


fools.  This  they  in  their  terror  acknowledged,  but  said  it  was 
not  past  remedy,  if  I would  join  them,  to  counteract  what  had 
been  done  in  that  matter.  Suffice  it  now  to  say,  after  a long  con- 
versation, arguing  all  the  pros  and  cons  over,  I settled  I would 
write  out  all  the  articles  of  a treaty  of  peace,  by  which  they  should 
be  liable  to  have  all  their  property  forfeited  on  the  coast  if  they 
afterward  broke  faith ; and  I begged  them  to  call  tbe  next  day 
and  sign  it. 

They  were  no  sooner  gone,  however,  than  Musa  assured  me 
they  had  killed  old  Maula  of  Rubuga  in  the  most  treacherous 
manner,  as  follows : Khamis,  who  is  an  Arab  of  most  gentleman- 
ly aspect,  on  returning  from  Ugogo  attended  by  slaves,  having- 
heard  that  Maula  was  desirous  of  adjusting  a peace,  invited  him, 
with  his  son,  to  do  so.  When  old  Maula  came  as  desired,  bring- 
ing his  son  with  him,  and  a suitable  offering  of  ivory  and  cattle, 
the  Arab  induced  them  both  to  kneel  down  and  exchange  blood 
with  him,  when,  by  a previously  concerted  arrangement,  Khamis 
had  them  shot  down  by  his  slaves.  This  disgusting  story  made 
me  quite  sorry,  when  next  day  the  Arabs  arrived,  expecting  that 
I should  attempt  to  help  them ; but,  as  the  matter  had  gone  so 
far,  I asked  them,  in  the  first  place,  how  they  could  hope  Manua 
Sera  would  have  any  faith  in  them  when  they  were  so  treacher- 
ous, or  trust  to  my  help,  since  they  had  killed  Maiila,  who  was 
my  protege f They  all  replied  in  a breath,  “Oh,  let  the  past  be 
forgotten,  and  assist  us  now,  for  in  you  alone  we  can  look  for  a 
preserver.” 

At  length  an  armistice  was  agreed  to ; but  as  no  one  dared  go 
to  negotiate  it  but  my  men,  I allowed  them  to  take  pay  from  the 
Arabs,  which  was  settled  on  the  4th  by  ten  men  taking  four  yards 
of  cloth  each,  with  a promise  of  a feast  on  sweetmeats  when  they 
returned.  Ex  Mrs.  Musa,  who  had  been  put  aside  by  her  hus- 
band because  she  was  too  fat  for  her  lord’g  taste,  then  gave  me 
three  men  of  her  private  establishment,  and  abused  Musa  for  be- 
ing wanting  in  “ brains.”  She  had  repeatedly  advised  him  to 
leave  this  place  and  go  with  me,  lest  the  Arabs,  who  were  all.  in 
debt  to  him,  should  put  him  to  death  ; but  he  still  hung  on  to  re- 
cover his  remaining  debts,  a portion  having  been  realized  by  the 
sale  of  Snay’s  and  Jafii’s  effects ; for  every  thing  in  the  shape  of 
commodities  had  been  sold  at  the  enormous  price  of  500  per  cent. 
— the  male  slaves  even  fetching  $100  per  head,  though  the  fe- 
males went  for  less.  The  Hottentots  now  arrived,  with  many 


Mat.] 


UNYAMUEZI. 


123 


more  of  my  men,  who,  seeing  their  old  “ flames,”  Snay’s  women, 
sold  off  by  auction,  begged  me  to  advance  them  money  to  pur- 
chase them  with,  for  they  could  not  bear  to  see  these  women,  who 
were  their  own  when  they  formerly  staid  here,  go  off  like  cattle 
no  one  knew  where.  Compliance,  of  course,  was  impossible,  as  it 
would  have  crowded  the  caravan  with  women.  Indeed,  to  pre- 
vent my  men  ever  thinking  of  matrimony  on  the  march,  as  well 
as  to  incite  them  on  through  the  journey,  I promised,  as  soon  as 
we  reached  Egypt,  to  give  them  all  wives  and  gardens  at  Zanzi- 
bar, provided  they  did  not  contract  marriages  on  the  road. 

On  the  6th,  the  deputation,  headed  by  Baraka,  returned  tri- 
umphantly into  Kaze,  leading  in  two  of  Manua  Sera’s  ministers 
— one  of  them  a man  with  one  eye,  whom  I called  Cyclops — and 
two  others,  ministers  of  a chief  called  Kitambi,  or  Little  Blue  Cloth. 
After  going  a day’s  journey,  they  said  they  came  to  where  Manila 
Sera  was  residing  with  Kitambi,  and  met  with  a most  cheerful  and 
kind  reception  from  both  potentates,  who,  on  hearing  of  my  prop- 
osition, warmly  acceded  to  it,  issued  orders  at  once  that  hostilities 
should  cease,  and,  with  one  voice,  said  they  were  convinced  that, 
unless  through  my  instrumentality,  Manila  Sera  would  never  re- 
gain his  possessions.  Kitambi  was  quite  beside  himself,  and  wish- 
ed my  men  to  stop  one  night  to  enjoy  his  hospitality.  Manila 
Sera,  after  reflecting  seriously  about  the  treacherous  murder  of 
old  Maul  a,  hesitated,  but  gave  way  when  it  had  been  explained 
away  by  my  men,  and  said,  “ INTo ; they  shall  go  at  once,  for  my 
kingdom  depends  on  the  issue,  and  Bana  Mzungii  (the  White  Lord) 
may  get  anxious  if  they  do  not  return  promptly.”  One  thing, 
however,  he  insisted  on,  and  that  was,  the  only  place  he  would 
meet  the  Arabs  in  was  Unyanyembe,  as  it  would  be  beneath  his 
dignity  to  settle  matters  any  where  else.  And  farther,  he  specified 
that  he  wished  all  the  transactions  to  take  place  in  Musa’s  house. 

Next  day,  7th,  I assembled  all  the  Arabs  at  Musa’s  “court,” 
with  all  my  men  and  the  two  chiefs,  four  men  attending,  when 
Baraka,  “on  his  legs,”  told  them  all  I proposed  for  the  treaty  of 
peace.  The  Arabs  gave  their  assent  to  it ; and  Cyclops,  for  Ma- 
nila Sera,  after  giving  a full  narrative  of  the  whole  history  of  the 
war,  in  such  a rapid  and  eloquent  manner  as  would  have  done 
justice  to  our  prime  minister,  said  his  chief  was  only  embittered 
against  Snay,  and  now  Snay  was  killed,  he  wished  to  make  friends 
with  them.  To  which  the  Arabs  made  a suitable  answer,  adding 
all  that  they  found  fault  with  was  an  insolent  remark  which,  in 


124 


THE  SOUECE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


his  wrath,  Manila  Sbra  had  given  utterance  to,  that  their  quarrel 
with  him  was  owing  chiefly  to  a scurvy  jest  which  he  had  passed 
on  them,  and  on  the  characteristic  personal  ceremony  of  initiation 
to  their  Mussulman  faith.  Now,  however,  as  Manila  Sdra  wished 
to  make  friends,  they  would  abide  by  any  thing  that  I might  pro- 
pose. Here  the  knotty  question  arose  again,  What  territory  they 
(the  Arabs)  would  give  to  Manila  Sera?  I thought  he  would  not 
be  content  unless  he  got  the  old  place  again ; but  as  Cyclops  said 
no,  that  was  not,  in  his  opinion,  absolutely  necessary,  as  the  lands 
of  Unyanyembe  had  once  before  been  divided-,  the  matter  was 
settled  on  the  condition  that  another  conference  should  be  held 
with  Manila  Sera  himself  on  the  subject. 

I now  (8th  and  9th)  sent  these  men  all  off  again,  inviting  Ma- 
nila Sera  to  come  over  and  settle  matters  at  once,  if  he  would, 
otherwise  I should  go  on  with  my  journey,  for  I could  not  afford 
to  wait  longer  here.  Then,  as  soon  as  they  left,  I made  Miisa 
order  some  of  his  men  off  to  Rungiia,  requesting  the  chief  of  the 
place  to  send  porters  to  Mininga  to  remove  all  our  baggage  over 
to  his  palace ; at  the  same  time,  I begged  him  not  to  fear  the 
Watiita’s  threat  to  attack  him,  as  Miisa  would  come  as  soon  as 
the  treaty  was  concluded,  in  company  with  me,  to  build  a boma 
alongside  his  palace,  as  he  did  in  former  years,  to  be  nearer  his 
trade  with  Karague.  I should  have  mentioned,  by  the  way,  that 
Musa  had  now  made  up  his  mind  not  to  go  farther  than  the  bor- 
ders of  Usiii  with  me,  lest  I should  be  “torn  to  pieces,”  and  he 
be  “ held  responsible  on  the  coast.”  Musa’s  men,  however,  whom 
he  selected  for  this  business,  were  then  engaged  making  Mussul- 
mans of  all  the  Arab  slave-boys,  and  said  they  would  not  go  until 
they  had  finished,  although  I offered  to  pay  the  “ doctor’s  bill,” 
or  allowance  they  expected  to  get.  The  ceremony,  at  the  same 
time  that  it  helps  to  extend  their  religion,  as  christening  does 
ours,  also  stamps  the  converts  with  a mark  effective  enough  to 
prevent  desertion;  because,  after  it  has  been  performed,  their  own 
tribe  would  not  receive  them  again.  At  last,  when  they  did  go, 
Musa,  who  was  suffering  from  a sharp  illness,  to  prove  to  me  that 
he  was  bent  on  leaving  Kaz 6 the  same  time  as  myself,  began  eat- 
ing what  he  called  his  training  pills — small  dried  buds  of  roses 
with  alternate  bits  of  sugar-candy.  Ten  of  these  buds,  he  said, 
eaten  dry,  were  sufficient  for  ordinary  cases,  and  he  gave  a very 
formidable  description  of  the  effect  likely  to  follow  the  use  of  the 
same  number  boiled  in  rice-water  or  milk. 


Mat.] 


UNYAMUEZI. 


125 


Fearful  stories  of  losses  and  distress  came  constantly  in  from 
Ugogo  by  small  bodies  of  men,  who  stole  their  way  through  the 
jungles.  To-day  a tremendous  commotion  took  place  in  Musa’s 
tembe  among  all  the  women,  as  one  had  been  delivered  of  still- 
born twins.  They  went  about  in  procession,  painted  and  adorned 
in  the  most  grotesque  fashion,  bewailing  and  screeching,  singing 
and  dancing,  throwing  their  arms  and  legs  about  as  if  they  were 
drunk,  until  the  evening  set  in,  when  they  gathered  a huge  bundle 
of  bulrushes,  and,  covering  it  over  with  a cloth,  carried  it  up  to 
the  door  of  the  bereaved  on  their  shoulders,  as  though  it  had  been 
a coffin.  Then  setting  it  down  on  the  ground,  they  planted  some 
of  the  rushes  on  either  side  of  the  entrance,  and  all  kneeling  to- 
gether, set  to  bewailing,  shrieking,  and  howling  incessantly  for 
hours  together. 

After  this  (10th  to  12th),  to  my  great  relief,  quite  unexpectedly, 
a man  arrived  from  Usui  conveying  a present  of  some  ivories  from 
a great  mganga  or  magician,  named  Dr.  K’yengo,  who  had  sent 
them  to  Musa  as  a recollection  from  an  old  friend,  begging  at  the 
same  time  for  some  pretty  cloths,  as  he  said  he  was  then  engaged 
as  mtongi  or  caravan  director,  collecting  together  all  the  native 
caravans  desirous  of  making  a grand  march  to  Uganda.  This 
seemed  to  me  a heaven-born  opportunity  of  making  friends  with 
one  who  could  help  me  so  materially,  and  I begged  Musa  to  seal 
it  by  sending  him  something  on  my  account,  as  I had  nothing  by 
me;  but  Musa  objected,  thinking  it  better  simply  to  say  I was 
coming,  and  if  he,  K’yengo,  would  assist  me  in  Usui,  I would  then 
give  him  some  cloths  as  he  wanted ; otherwise,  Musa  said,  the 
man  who  had  to  convey  it  would  in  all  probability  make  away 
with  it,  and  then  do  his  best  to  prevent  my  seeing  K’yengo.  As 
soon  as  this  was  settled,  against  my  wish  and  opinion,  a special 
messenger  arrived  from  Suwarora  to  inquire  of  Musa  what  truth 
there  was  in  the  story  of  the  Arabs  having  allied  themselves  to 
the  Watuta.  He  had  full  faith  in  Musa,  and  hoped,  if  the  Arabs 
had  no  hostile  intentions  toward  him,  he,  Musa,  would  send  him 
two  men  of  his  own,  and  prevail  on  the  Arabs  to  send  two  of 
theirs ; farther,  Suwarora  wished  Musa  would  send  him  a cat.  A 
black  cat  was  then  given  to  the  messenger  for  Suwarora,  and 
Musa  sent  an  account  of  all  that  I had  done  toward  effecting  a 
peace,  saying  that  the  Arabs  had  accepted  my  views,  and  if  he 
would  have  patience  until  I arrived  in  Usui,  the  four  men  re- 
quired would  be  sent  with  me. 


126 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


1861. 


In  the  evening  my  men  returned  again  with  Cyclops,  who  said, 
for  his  master,  that  Manila  Sera  desired  nothing  more  than  peace, 
and  to  make  friends  with  the  Arabs ; but  as  nothing  was  settled 
about  deposing  Mkisiwa,  he  could  not  come  over  here.  Could 
the  Arabs,  was  Manua  Sera’s  rejoinder,  suppose  for  a moment 
that  he  would  voluntarily  divide  his  dominion  with  one  whom  he 
regarded  as  his  slave ! Death  would  be  preferable ; and  although 
he  would  trust  his  life  in  the  Mzungii’s  hands  if  he  called  him 
again,  he  must  know  it  was  his  intention  to  hunt  Mkisiwa  down 
like  a wild  animal,  and  would  never  rest  satisfied  until  he  was 
dead.  The  treaty  thus  broke  down  ; for  the  same  night  Cyclops 
decamped  like  a thief,  after  brandishing  an  arrow  which  Manila 
Sera  had  given  him  to  throw  down  as  a gauntlet  of  defiance  to 
fight  Mkisiwra  to  death.  After  this  the  Arabs  were  too  much 
ashamed  of  themselves  to  come  near  me,  though  invited  by  letter, 
and  Musa  became  so  ill  he  would  not  take  my  advice  and  ride  in 
a hammock,  the  best  possible  cure  for  his  complaint;  so,  after 
being  humbugged  so  many  times  by  his  procrastinations,  I gave 
Sheikh  Said  more  letters  and  specimens,  with  orders  to  take  the 
Tots  down  to  the  coast  as  soon  as  practicable,  and  started  once 
more  for  the  north,  expecting  very  shortly  to  hear  of  Musa’s 
death,  though  he  promised  to  follow  me  the  very  next  day  or  die 
in  the  attempt,  and  he  also  said  he  would  bring  on  the  four  men 
required  by  Suwarora;  for  I was  fully  satisfied  in  my  mind  that 
he  would  have  marched  with  me  then  had  he  had  the  resolution 
to  do  so  at  all. 

Before  I had  left  the  district  I heard  that  Manila  Sera  had  col- 
To  Mininga,  13th  lected  a mixed  force  of  Warori,  Wagogo,  and  Wasa- 
andin/i.  kiima,  and  had  gone  off  to  Kighe  again,  while  the 
Arabs  and  Mkisiwa  were  feeding  their  men  on  beef  before  setting 
out  to  fight  him.  Manila  Sdra,  it  was  said,  had  vast  resources. 
Elis  father,  Fundi  Kira,  was  a very  rich  man,  and  had  buried  vast 
stores  of  property,  -which  no  one  knew  of  but  Manila  Sera,  his 
heir.  The  Wanyamuezi  all  inwardly  loved  him  for  his  great 
generosity,  and  all  alike  thought  him  protected  by  a halo  of 
charm-power  so  effective  against  the  arms  of  the  Arabs  that  he 
could  play  with  them  just  as  he  liked. 

On  crossing  Unyambewa  (14th),  when  I a third  time  put  up 
with  my  old  friend  the  sultana,  her  chief  sent  word  to  say  he 
hoped  I would  visit  him  at  his  fighting  boma  to  eat  a cow  which 
he  had  in  store  for  me,  as  he  could  not  go  home  and  enjoy  the 


Mat.] 


UNYAMUEZI. 


127 


society  of  liis  wife  while  the  war  was  going  on,  since  by  so  doing 
it  was  considered  he  “ would  lose  strength.” 

On  arriving  at  Mininga,  I was -rejoiced  to  see  Grant  greatly  re- 
Mininga,  15 th  to  covered.  Three  villagers  had  been  attacked  by  two 
mh-  lions  during  my  absence.  Two  of  the  people  es- 

caped, but  the  third  was  seized  as  he  was  plunging  into  his  hut, 
and  was  dragged  off  and  devoured  by  the  animals.  A theft  also 
had  taken  place,  by  which  both  Grant  and  Sirboko  lost  property ; 
and  the  thieves  had  been  traced  over  the  borders  of  the  next  dis- 
trict. No  fear,  however,  was  entertained  about  the  things  being 
recovered,  for  Sirboko  had  warned  Ugali  the  chief,  and  he  had 
promised  to  send  his  Waganga,  or  magicians,  out  to  track  them 
down,  unless  the  neighboring  chief  chose  to  give  them  up.  After 
waiting  two  days,  as  no  men  came  from  Eungua,  I begged  Grant 
to  push  ahead  on  to  Ukuni,  just  opposite  Eungua,  with  all  my 
coast-men,  while  I remained  behind  for  the  arrival  of  Musa’s  men 
and  porters  to  carry  on  the  rest  of  the  kit;  for  I had  now  twenty- 
two  in  addition  to  men  permanently  enlisted,  who  took  service 
on  the  same  rate  of  pay  as  my  original  coast -men;  though,  as 
usual,  when  the  order  for  marching  was  issued,  a great  number 
were  found  to  be  either  sick  or  malingering. 

Two  days  afterward,  Musa’s  men  came  in  with  porters,  who 
to  srbisu  mn  would  not  hire  themselves  for  more  than  two  marches, 
and  2ist.  having  been  forbidden  to  do  so  by  their  chief  on  ac- 
count of  the  supposed  Watuta  invasion;  and  for  these  two 
marches  they  required  a quarter  of  the  whole  customary  hire  to 
Karague.  Musa’s  traps,  too,  I found,  were  not  to  be  moved,  so  I 
saw  at  once  Musa  had  not  kept  faith  with  me,  and  there  would 
be  a fresh  set  of  difficulties;  but  as  every  step  onward  was  of  the 
greatest  importance — for  my  men  were  consuming  my  stores  at  a 
fearful  pace— I paid  down  the  beads  they  demanded,  and  next 
day  joined  Grant  at  Mbisu,  a village  of  Ukuni  held  by  a small 
chief  called  Mchimeka,  who  had  just  concluded  a war  of  two 
years’  standing  with  the  great  chief  Ukulima  (the  Digger),  of 
Nunda  (the  Hump).  During  the  whole  of  the  two  years’  warfare 
the  loss  was  only  three  men  on  each  side.  Meanwhile  Musa’s 
men  bolted  like  thieves  one  night,  on  a report  coming  that  the 
chief  of  Unyambewa,  after  concluding  the  war,  while  amusing 
himself  with  his  wife,  had  been  wounded  on  the  foot  by  an  arrow 
that  fell  from  her  hand.  The  injury  had  at  once  taken  a mortal 
turn,  and  the  chief  sent  for  his  magicians,  who  said  it  was  not  the 


128 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


fault  of  the  wife ; somebody  else  must  have  charmed  the  arrow 
to  cause  such  a deadly  result.  They  then  seized  hold  of  their 
magic  horn,  primed  for  the  purpose,  and  allowed  it  to  drag  them 
to  where  the  culprits  dwelt.  Four  poor  men,  who  were  convicted 
in  this  way,  were  at  once  put  to  death,  and  the  chief  from  that 
moment  began  to  recover. 

After  a great  many  perplexities,  I succeeded  in  getting  a kiran- 
Mbisu,  na  to  g°U  or  leader,  by  name  Ungurue  (the  Pig).  He  had 
31s(-  several  times  taken  caravans  to  Karague,  and  knew 

all  the  languages  well,  but  unfortunately  he  afterward  proved  to 
be  what  his  name  implied.  That,  however,  I could  not  foresee ; 
so,  trusting  to  him  and  good  luck,  I commenced  making  fresh  en- 
listments of  porters ; but  they  came  and  went  in  the  most  tanta- 
lizing manner,  notwithstanding  I offered  three  times  the  hire  that 
any  merchant  could  afford  to  give.  Every  day  seemed  to  be 
worse  and  worse.  Some  of  Musa’s  men  came  to  get  palm  toddy 
for  him,  as  he  was  too  weak  to  stand,  and  was  so  cold  nothing 
would  warm  him.  There  was,  however,  no  message  brought  for 
myself;  and  as  the  deputation  did  not  come  to  me,  I could  only 
infer  that  I was  quite  forgotten,  or  that  Musa,  after  all,  had  only 
been  humbugging  me.  I scarcely  knew  what  to  do.  Every 
body  advised  me  to  stop  where  I was  until  the  harvest  was  over, 
as  no  porters  could  be  found  on  ahead,  for  Ukuni  was  the  last  of 
the  fertile  lands  on  this  side  of  Usui. 

Stopping,  however,  seemed  endless;  not  so  my  supplies.  I 
therefore  tried  advancing  in  detachments  again,  sending  the  free 
men  off  under  Grant  to  Ukulima’s,  while  I waited  behind,  keep- 
ing ourselves  divided  in  the  hopes  of  inducing  all  hands  to  see 
the  advisability  of  exerting  themselves  for  the  general  good ; as 
my  men,  while  we  were  all  together,  showed  they  did  not  care 
how  long  they  were  kept  doing  no  more  fatiguing  work  than 
chaffing  each  other,  and  feeding  at  my  expense. 

In  the  mean  while  the  villagers  were  very  merry,  brewing  and 
drinking  their  pombb  (beer)  by  turns,  one  house  after  the  other 
providing  the  treat.  On  these  occasions,  the  chief — who  always 
drank  freely,  and  more  than  any  other — heading  the  public  gath- 
erings of  men  and  women,  saw  the  large  earthen  pots  placed  all 
in  a row,  and  the  company  taking  long  draughts  from  bowls 
made  of  plaited  straw,  laughing  as  they  drank,  until,  half-screwed, 
they  would  begin  bawling  and  shouting.  To  increase  the  merri- 
ment, one  or  two  jackanapes,  with  zebras’  manes  tied  over  their 


HARVEST  IN  WANYAMWEZI,  1861. 


1,  2,  3,  4.  Grain.  Maize,  etc.,  stacked  for  the  season. 

5.  Men  with  long  rackets  thrashing  Kafir  corn  (sorghum). 

6.  Woman  in  the  field  cutting  “ sorghum”  with  a knife,  and  depositing  it  in  a basket. 
T.  Women  separating  the  corn  from  the  chaff  by  means  of  a wooden  pestle  and  mortar. 
S.  Woman  grinding  corn  upon  a single  slab  of  stone. 


May.] 


UNYAMUEZI. 


131 


heads,  would  advance  with  long  tubes  like  monster  bassoons, 
blowing  with  all  their  might,  contorting  their  faces  and  bodies, 
and  going  through  the  most  obscene  and  ridiculous  motions  to 
captivate  their  simple  admirers.  This,  however,  was  only  the 
feast ; the  ball  then  began ; for  the  pots  were  no  sooner  emptied 
than  five  drums  at  once,  of  different  sizes  and  tones,  suspended  in 
a line  from  a long  horizontal  bar,  were  beaten  with  fury,  and  all 
the  men,  women,  and  children,  singing  and  clapping  their  hands 
in  time,  danced  for  hours  together. 

A report  reached  me,  by  some  of  Sirboko’s  men,  whom  he  had 
sent  to  convey  to  us  a small  present  of  rice,  that  an  Arab,  who 
was  crossing  Msalala  to  our  northward,  had  been  treacherously 
robbed  of  all  his  arms  and  guns  by  a small  district  chief,  whose 
only  excuse  was  that  the  Wanyamuezi  had  always  traded  very 
well  by  themselves  until  the  Arabs  came  into  the  country ; but 
now,  as  they  were  robbed  of  their  property  on  account  of  the  dis- 
turbances caused  by  these  Arabs,  they  intended  for  the  future  to 
take  all  they  could  get,  and  challenged  the  Arabs  to  do  the  same. 

My  patience  was  beginning  to  suffer  again,  for  I could  not  help 
thinking  that  the  chiefs  of  the  place  were  preventing  their  village 
men  going  with  me  in  order  that  my  presence  here  might  ward 
off  the  Watuta;  so  I called  up  the  kirangozi,  who  had  thirteen 
“ Watoto,”  as  they  are  called,  or  children  of  his  own,  wishing  to 
go,  and  asked  him  if  he  knew  why  no  other  men  could  be  got. 
As  he  could  not  tell  me,  saying  some  excused  themselves  on  the 
plea  they  were  cutting  their  corn,  and  others  that  they  feared  the 
Watuta,  I resolved  at  once  to  move  over  to  Nunda;  and  if  that 
place  also  failed  to  furnish  men,  I would  go  on  to  Usui  or  Kara- 
gue  with  what  men  I had,  and  send  back  for  the  rest  of  my  prop- 
erty ; for,  though  I could  not  bear  the  idea  of  separating  from 
Grant,  still  the  interests  of  old  England  were  at  stake,  and  de- 
manded it. 

This  resolve  being  strengthened  by  the  kirangozi’s  assurance 

that  the  row  in  Msalala  had  shaken  the  few  men  who 

To  Nunda,  31s(. 

had  half  dreaded  to  go  with  me,  I marched  over  to 
Nunda,  and  put  up  with  Grant  in  Ukulima’s  boma,  when  Grant 
informed  me  that  the  chief  had  required  four  yards  of  cloth  from 
him  for  having  walked  round  a dead  lioness,  as  he  had  thus  de- 
stroyed a charm  that  protected  his  people  against  any  more  of 
these  animals  coming,  although,  fortunately,  the  charm  could  be 
restored  again  by  paying  four  yards  of  cloth.  Ukulima,  howev- 


132 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861 


er,  was  a very  kind  and  good  man,  though,  he  did  stick  the  bands 
and  heads  of  his  victims  on  the  poles  of  his  boma  as  a warning  to 


Ukulima’s  Village. 

others.  He  kept  five  wives,  of  whom  the  rest  paid  such  respect 
to  the  elder  one,  it  was  quite  pleasing  to  see  them.  A man  of 
considerable  age,  he  did  every  thing  the  state  or  his  great  estab- 
lishment required  himself.  All  the  men  of  his  district  clapped 
their  hands  together  as  a courteous  salutation  to  him,  and  the 
women  courtesied  as  well  as  they  do  at  our  court — a proof  that 
they  respected  him  as  a great  potentate — a homage  rarely  bestow- 
ed on  the  chiefs  of  other  small  states.  Ukulima  was  also  hospita- 
ble; for  on  one  occasion,  when  another  chief  came  to  visit  him, 
he  received  his  guest  and  retainers  with  considerable  ceremony, 
making  all  the  men  of  the  village  get  up  a dance,  which  they  did, 
beating  the  drums  and  firing  off  guns  like  a lot  of  black  devils 
let  loose. 

We  were  not  the  only  travelers  in  misfortune  here,  for  Masudi, 
nait  to  Nunda,  Nvith  several  other  Arabs,  all  formed  in  one  large  car- 
ist  to  3d.  avan,  had  arrived  at  Mchimdka’s,  and  could  not  ad- 
vance for  want  of  men.  They  told  me  it  was  the  first  time  they 
had  come  on  this  line,  and  they  deeply  regretted  it,  for  they  had 
lost  $5000  worth  of  beads  by  their  porters  running  away  with 
their  loads,  and  now  they  did  not  know  how  to  proceed.  In- 
deed, they  left  the  coast  and  arrived  at  Kaze  immediately  in  rear 
of  us,  and  had,  like  ourselves,  found  it  as  much  as  they  could  do 


Juke.]  UNYAMUEZI.  133 

even  to  reach  this,  and  now  they  were  at  a standstill  for  want  of 
porters. 

As  all  hopes  of  being  able  to  get  any  more  men  were  given  up, 

I called  on  Bombay  and  Baraka  to  make  arrangements  for  my 
going  ahead  with  the  best  of  my  property  as  I had  devised.  They 
both  shook  their  heads,  and  advised  me  to  remain  until  the  times 
improved,  when  the  Arabs,  being  freed  from  the  pressure  of  war, 
would  come  along  and  form  with  us  a “sufari  ku,”  or  grand 
march,  as  Ukulima  and  every  one  else  had  said  we  should  be  torn 
to  pieces  in  Usui  if  we  tried  to  cross  that  district  with  so  few  men. 

I then  told  them  again  and  again  of  the  messages  I had  sent  on  to-' 
Rumanika  in  Karague,  and  to  Suwarora  in  Usui,  and  begged  them 
to  listen  to  me,  instancing  as  an  example  of  what  could  be  done 
by  perseverance  the  success  of  Columbus,  who,  opposed  by  his 
sailors’  misgivings,  still  went  on  and  triumphed,  creating  for  him- 
self immortal  renown. 

They  gave  way  at  last',  so,  after  selecting  all  the  best  of  my 
Form  camp  in  property,  I formed  camp  at  Phunze,  left  Bombay  with 
phimze,  3d.  Grant  behind,  as  I thought  Bombay  the  best  and 
most  honest  man  I had  got,  from  his  having  had  so  much  experi- 
ence, and  then  went  ahead  by  myself,  with  the  Pig  as  my  guide 
and  interpreter,  and  Baraka  as  my  factotum.  The  Waguana  then 
all  mutinied  for  a cloth  apiece,  saying  they  would  not  lift  a load 
unless  I gave  it.  Of  course  a severe  contest  followed ; I said,  as 
I had  given  them  so  much  before,  they  could  not  want  it,  and 
ought  to  be  ashamed  of  themselves.  They  urged,  however,  they 
were  doing  double  work,  and  would  not  consent  to  carry  loads  as 
they  had  done  at  Mgunda  Mkhali  again. 

Arguments  were  useless,  for,  simply  because  they  were  tired  of 
Halt  in  Phunze  going  0Tb  they  ivould  not  see  that  as  they  were  receiv- 
turee  days.  ing  pay  every  day,  they  therefore  ought  to  work  ev- 
ery day.  However,  as  they  yielded  at  last,  by  some  few  leaning 
on  my  side,  I gave  what  they  asked  for,  and  went  to  the  next  vil- 
lage, still  inefficient  in  men,  as  all  the  Pig’s  Watoto  could  not  be 
collected  together.  This  second  move  brought  us  into  a small 
village,  of  which  Ghiya,  a young  man,  was  chief. 

He  was  very  civil  to  me,  and  offered  to  sell  me  a most  charm- 
To  Ghiya’-  ith  *ng  young  woman,  quite  the  belle  of  the  country ; 

but,  as  he  could  not  bring  me  to  terms,  he  looked 
over  my  picture-books  with  the  greatest  delight,  and  afterward 
went  into  a discourse  on  geography  with  considerable  perspicaci- 


134 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


tj,  seeming  fully  to  comprehend  that  if  I got  down  the  Nile  it 
would  afterward  result  in  making  the  shores  of  the  N’yanza  like 
that  of  the  coast  at  Zanzibar,  where  the  products  of  his  country 
could  be  exchanged,  without  much  difficulty,  for  cloths,  beads,  and 
brass  wire.  I gave  him  a present ; then  a letter  was  brought  to 
me  from  Sheikh  Said,  announcing  Musa’s  death,  find  the  fact  that 
Manua  Sera  was  still  holding  out  at  Kigub ; in  answer  to  which 
I desired  the  sheikh  to  send  me  as  many  of  Musa’s  slaves  as 
would  take  service  with  me,  for  they  ought  now,  by  the  laws  of 
the  Koran,  to  be  all  free. 

On  packing  up  to  leave  Ghiya’s,  all  the  men  of  the  village  shut 
To  ungurM’s,  the  bars  of  the  entrance,  wishing  to  extract  some 
sth-  cloths  from  me,  as  I had  not  given  enough,  they  said, 

to  their  chief.  They  soon,  however,  saw  that  we,  being  inside 
their  own  fort,  had  the  best  of  it,  and  they  gave  way.  We  then 
pushed  on  to  Ungurue’s,  another  chief  of  the  same  district.  Here 
the  men  and  women  o'f  the  place  came  crowding  to  see  me,  the 
fair  sex  all  playfully  offering  themselves  for  wives,  and  wishing 
to  know  which  I admired  most.  They  were  so  importunate,  aft- 
er a time,  that  I was  not  sorry  to  hear  an  attack  was  made  on 
their  castle  because  a man  of  the  village  would  not  pay  his  dow- 
ry-money to  his  father-in-law,  and  this  set  every  body  flying  out 
to  the  scene  of  action. 

After  this,  as  Bombay  brought  up  the  last  of  my  skulking  men, 
I bade  him  good-by  again,  and  made  an  afternoon -march  on  to 
Takina,  in  the  district  of  Msalala,  which  we  no  sooner  approached 
than  all  the  inhabitants  turned  out  and  fired  their  arrows  at  us. 
They  did  no  harm,  however,  excepting  to  create  a slight  alarm, 
which  some  neighboring  villagers  took  advantage  of  to  run  off 
with  two  of  my  cows.  My  men  followed  after  the  thieves  until 
these  entered  a boma  and  shut  the  gate  in  their  faces.  They  call- 
ed out  for  the  cows  to  be  returned  to  them,  but  called  in  vain,  as 
the  scoundrels  said,  “ Findings  are  keepings,  by  the  laws  of  our 
country ; and  as  we  found  your  cowrs,  so  we  will  keep  them.”  For 
my  part,  I was  glad  they  were  gone,  as  the  "VVanguana  never  yet 
kept  any  thing  I put  under  their  charge;  so,  instead  of  allowing 
them  to  make  a fuss  the  next  morning,  I marched  straight  on  for 
M’yonga’s,  the  chief  of  the  district,  who  was  famed  for  his  infamy 
and  great  extortions,  having  pushed  his  exactions  so  far  as  to 
close  the  road. 

On  nearing  his  palace,  we  heard  war-drums  beat  in  every  sur- 


■JUNE.] 


UNYAMUEZI. 


135 


to  M'yonga's,  rounding  village,  and  the  kirangozi  would  go  no  far- 
9i/!-  ther  until  permission  was  obtained  from  M’yonga. 

This  did  not  take  long,  as  the  chief  said  he  was  most  desirous  to 
see  a white  man,  never  having  been  to  the  coast,  though  his  fa- 
ther-in-law had,  and  had  told  him  that  the  Wazungu  were  even 
greater  people  than  the  sultan  reigning  there.  On  our  drawing 
near  the  palace,  a small,  newly-constructed  boma  was  shown  for 
my  residence ; but  as  I did  not  wish  to  stop  there,  knowing  how 
anxious  Grant  would  be  to  have  his  relief,  I would  not  enter  it, 
but  instead  sent  Baraka  to  pay  the  hongo  as  quickly  as  possible, 
that  we  might  move  on  again  ; at  the  same  time  ordering  him  to 
describe  the  position  both  Grant  and  myself  were  in,  and  explain 
that  what  I paid  now  was  to  frank  both  of  us,  as  the  whole  of  the 
property  was  my  own.  Should  he  make  any  remarks  about  the 
two  cows  that  were  stolen,  I said  he  must  know  that  I could  not 
wait  for  them,  as  my  brother  would  die  of  suspense  if  we  did  not 
finish  the  journey  and  send  back  for  him  quickly.  Off  went 
Baraka  with  a party  of  men,  stopping  hours,  of  course,  and  firing 
volleys  of  ammunition  away.  He  did  not  return  again  until  the 
evening,  when  the  palace-drums  announced  that  the  hongo  had 
been  settled  for  one  barsati,  one  lugoi,  and  six  yards  merikani. 
Baraka  approached  me  triumphantly,  saying  how  well  he  had 
managed  the  business.  M’yonga  did  not  wish  to  see  me,  because 
he  did  not  know  the  coast  language.  He  was  immensely  pleased 
with  the  present  I had  given  him,  and  said  he  was  much  and  very 
unjustly  abused  by  the  Arabs,  who  never  came  this  way,  saying 
he  was  a bad  man.  He  should  be  very  glad  to  see  Grant,  and 
would  take  nothing  from  him ; and,  though  he  did  not  see  me  in 
person,  he  would  feel  much  affronted  if  I did  not  stop  the  night 
there.  In  the  mean  while  he  would  have  the  cows  brought  in, 
for  he  could  not  allow  any  one  to  leave  his  country  abused  in 
any  way. 

My  men  had  greatly  amused  him  by  firing  their  guns  off  and 
showing  him  the  use  of  their  sword-bayonets.  I knew,  as  a mat- 
ter of  course,  that  if  I stopped  any  longer  I should  be  teased  for 
more  cloths,  and  gave  orders  to  my  men  to  march  the  same  in- 
stant, saying,  if  they  did  not — for  I saw  them  hesitate — I would 
give  the  cows  to  the  villagers,  since  I knew  that  was  the  thing 
that  weighed  on  their  minds.  This  raised  a mutiny.  No  one 
would  go  forward  with  the  two  cows  behind ; besides  which,  the 
day  was  far  spent,  and  there  was  nothing  but  jungle,  they  said, 


136 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


beyond.  The  kirangozi  would  not  show  the  way,  nor  would  any 
man  lift  a load.  A great  confusion  ensued.  I knew  they  were 
telling  lies,  and  would  not  enter  the  village,  but  shot  the  cows 
when  they  arrived,  for  the  villagers  to  eat,  to  show  them  I cared 
for  nothing  but  making  headway,  and  remained  out  in  the  open 
all  night.  Next  morning,  sure  enough,  before  we  could  get  un- 
der \^ay,  M’yonga  sent  his  prime  minister  to  say  that  the  king’s 
sisters  and  other  members  of  his  family  had  been  crying  and  tor- 
menting him  all  night  for  having  let  me  off  so  cheaply ; they  had 
got  nothing  to  cover  their  nakedness,  and  I must  pay  something 
more.  This  provoked  fresh  squabbles.  The  drums  had  beaten 
and  the  tax  was  settled ; I could  not  pay  more.  The  kirangozi, 
however,  said  he  would  not  move  a peg  unless  I gave  something 
more,  else  he  would  be  seized  on  his  way  back.  His  “children” 
all  said  the  same;  and  as  I thought  Grant  would  only  be  worsted 
if  I did  not  keep  friends  with  the  scoundrel,  I gave  four  yards 
more  merikani,  and  then  went  on  my  way. 

For  the  first  few  miles  there  were  villages,  but  after  that  a long 
tract  of  jungle,  inhabited  chiefly  by  antelopes  and  rhinoceros.  It 
was  wilder  in  appearance  than  most  parts  of  Unyamuezi.  In 
this  jungle  a tributary  nullah  to  the  Gombb,  called  Nurkungure, 
is  the  boundary-line  between  the  great  Country  of  the  Moon  and 
the  kingdom  of  Uzinza. 


June.] 


UZINZA. 


137 


CHAPTER  VI. 

UZINZA. 

The  Politics  of  Uzinza. — The  Wahuma. — “The  Pig’s” Trick. — First.  Taste  of  Ustii 
Taxation. — Pillaged  by  Mfumbi. — Pillaged  by  Makaka. — Pillaged  by  Lfimeresi. 
— Grant  stripped  by  M’yonga. — Stripped  again  by  Ruhe. — Terrors  and  Defec- 
tions in  the  Camp. — Driven  back  to  Kaze  with  new  Tribulations  and  Impedi- 
ments. 


Uzinza,  which  we  now  entered,  is  ruled  by  two  Wahuma 

chieftains  of  foreign  blood,  descended  from  the  Abys- 

Cross  Unyamuezi  . . , 

frontier,  ioth,  siman  stock,  of  whom  we  saw  specimens  scattered 

and  enter  Uzinza.  . , , , , . 

all  over  Unyamuezi,  and  who  extended  even  down 
south  as  far  as  Fipa.  Travelers 
see  very  little,  however,  of  these 
Wahuma,  because,  being  pastor- 
als, they  roam  about  with  their 
flocks  and  build  huts  as  far  away 
as  they  can  from  cultivation.  Most 
of  the  small  district  chiefs,  too,  are 
the  descendants  of  those  who  ruled 
in  the  same  places  before  the  coun- 
try was  invaded,  and  with  them 
travelers  put  up  and  have  their 
dealings.  The  dress  of  the  Wa- 
huma is  very  simple,  composed 
chiefly  of  cowhide  tanned  black 
— a few  magic  ornaments  and 
charms,  brass  or  copper  bracelets, 
and  immense  numbers  of  sambo 
for  stockings,  which  looked  very 
awkward  on  their  long  legs.  They 
smear  themselves  with  rancid  butter  instead  of  macassar,  and  are, 
in  consequence,  very  offensive  to  all  but  the  negro,  who  seems, 
rather  than  otherwise,  to  enjoy  a good  sharp  nose-tickler.  For 
arms,  they  carry  both  bow  and  spear ; more  generally  the  latter. 
The  Wazinza  in  the  southern  parts  are  so  much  like  the  Wan- 


Mzinza,  or  Native  of  Uzinza. 


138 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


risei. 


yamuezi  as  not  to  require  any  especial  notice ; but  in  the  north, 
where  the  country  is  more  hilly,  they  are  much  more  energetic 
and  actively  built.  All  alike  live  in  grass-hut  villages,  fenced 
round  by  bomas  in  the  south,  but  open  in  the  north.  Their 
country  rises  in  high  rolls,  increasing  in  altitude  as  it  approaches 
the  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  and  is  generally  well  cultivated,  be- 
ing subjected  to  more  of  the  periodical  rains  than  the  regions  we 
have  left,  though  springs  are  not  so  abundant,  I believe,  as  they 
are  in  the  Land  of  the  Moon,  where  they  ooze  out  by  the  flanks 
of  the  little  granitic  hills. 

After  tracking  through  several  miles  of  low  bush-jungle,  we 
came  to  the  sites  of  some  old  bomas  that  had  been  destroyed  by 
the  AMatuta  not  long  since.  Farther  on,  as  we  wished  to  enter  a 
newly-constructed  boma,  the  chief  of  which  was  Mafumbu  Wantu 
(a  Mr.  Balls),  we  felt  the  effects  of  those  ruthless  marauders ; for 
the  villagers,  thinking  us  Watuta  in  disguise,  would  not  let  us  in;- 
for  those  savages,  they  said,  had  once  tricked  them  by  entering 
their  village,  pretending  to  be  traders  carrying  ivory  and  mer- 
chandise, while  they  were  actually  spies.  This  was  fortunate  for 
me,  however,  as  Mr.  Balls,  like  M’yonga,  was  noted  for  his  extor- 
tions on  travelers.  We  then  went  on  and  put  up  in  the  first  large 
village  of  Bogud,  where  I wished  to  get  porters  and  return  for 
Grant,  as  the  place  seemed  to  be  -populous.  Finding,  however, 
that  I could  not  get  a sufficient  number  for  that  purpose,  I direct- 
ed those  who  wished  for  employment  to  go  off  at  once  and  take 
service  with  Grant. 

I found  many  people  assembled  here  from  all  parts  of  the  dis- 
trict for  the  purpose  of  fighting  M’yonga;  but  the 
To  R.ihc  chief  Rube,  having  heard  of  my  arrival,  called  me  to 
his  palace,  which,  he  said,  was  on  my  way,  that  he  might  see  me, 
for  he  never  in  all  his  life  had  a white  man  for  his  guest,  and  was 
so  glad  to  hear  of  my  arrival  that  he  would  give  orders  for  the 
dispersing  of  his  forces.  I wished  to  push  past  him,  as  I might 
be  subjected  to  such  calls  every  day;  but  Unghrue,  in  the  most 
piggish  manner — for  he  was  related  to  Ruhe — insisted  that  neither 
himself  nor  any  of  his  children  would  advance  one  step  farther 
with  me  unless  I complied  with  their  wish,  which  was  a simple 
conformity  with  the  laws  of  their  country,  and  therefore  absolute. 
At  length  giving  in,  I entered  Rube’s  boma,  the  poles  of  which 
were  decked  with  the  skulls  of  his  enemies  stuck  upon  them. 
Instead,  however,  of  seeing  him  myself,  as  he  feared  my  evil  eye, 


June.] 


UZINZA. 


139 


I conducted  the  arrangements  for  the  hongo  through  Baraka,  in 
the  same  way  as  I did  at  M’yonga’s,  directing  that  it  should  be 
limited  to  the  small  sum  of  one  barsati  and  four  yards  kiniki. 

The  drum  was  beaten,  as  the  public  intimation  of  the  payment 
To  Mihambo  of  the  hongo,  and  consequently  of  our  release,  and  we 
mh-  went  on  to  Mihambo,  on  the  west  border  of  the  east- 

ern division  of  Uzinza,  which  is  called  Ukhanga.  It  overlooks 
the  small  district  of  Sorombo,  belonging  to  the  great  western  di- 
vision, known  as  Usui,  and  is  presided  over  by  a Sorombo  chief, 
named  Makaka,  whose  extortions  had  been  so  notorious  that  no 
Arabs  now  ever  went  near  him.  I did  not  wish  to  do  so  either, 
though  his  palace  lay  in  the  direct  route.  It  was  therefore  agreed 
we  should  skirt  round  by  the  east  of  this  district,  and  I even 
promised  the  Pig  I would  give  him  ten  necklaces  a day,  in  addi- 
tion to  his  wages,  if  he  would  avoid  all  the  chiefs,  and  march 
steadily  ten  miles  every  day.  By  doing  so,  we  should  have 
avoided  the  wandering  Watuta,  whose  depredations  had  laid  waste 
nearly  all  of  this  country ; but  the  designing  blackguard,  in  op- 
position to  my  wishes,  to  accomplish  some  object  of  his  own,  chose 
to  mislead  us  all,  and  quietly  took  us  straight  into  Sorombo  to 
Kague,  the  boma  of  a sub-chief,  called  Mfumbi,  where  we  no 
sooner  arrived  than  the  inhospitable  brute  forbade  any  of  his  sub- 
jects to  sell  us  food  until  the  hongo  was  paid,  for  he  was  not  sure 
that  we  were  not  allied  with  the  Watuta  to  rob  his  country. 
After  receiving  what  he  called  his  dues — one  barsati,  two  yards 
merikani,  and  two  yards  kiniki — the  drums  beat,  and  all  was  set- 
tled with  him ; but  I was  told  the  head  chief  Makaka,  who  lived 
ten  miles  to  the  west,  and  so  much  out  of  my  road,  had  sent 
expressly  to  invite  me  to  see  him.  He  said  it  was  his  right  I 
should  go  to  him  as  the  principal  chief  of  the  district.  Moreover, 
he  longed  for  a sight  of  a white  man  ; for,  though  he  had  traveled 
all  across  Uganda  and  Usoga  into  Masawa,  or  the  Masai  country, 
as  well  as  to  the  coast,  where  he  had  seen  both  Arabs  and  Indians, 
he  had  never  yet  seen  an  Englishman.  If  I would  oblige  him, 
he  said  he  would  give  me  guides  to  Suwarora,  who  was  his 
mkama,  or  king.  Of  course  I knew  well  what  all  this  meant; 
and  at  the  same  time  that  I said  I could  not  comply,  I promised 
to  send  him  a present  of  friendship  by  the  hands  of  Baraka. 

This  caused  a halt.  Makaka  would  not  hear  of  such  an  ar- 
rangement. A present,  he  said,  was  due  to  him  of  course,  but  of 
more  importance  than  the  present  was  his  wish  to  see  me.  Baraka 


140 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


and  all  the  men  begged  I would  give  in,  as  they  were  sure  he 
must  be  a good  man  to  send  such  a kind  message.  I strove  in 
vain,  for  no  one  would  lift  a load  unless  I complied ; so,  perforce, 
I went  there,  in  company,  however,  with  Mfumbi,  who  now  pre- 
tended to  be  great  friends;  but  what  was  the  result?  On  enter- 
ing the  palace,  we  were  shown  into  a cowyard  without  a tree  in 
it,  or  any  shade ; and  no  one  was  allowed  to  sell  us  food  until  a 
present  of  friendship  was  paid,  after  which  the  hongo  would  be 
discussed. 

The  price  of  friendship  was  not  settled  that  day,  however,  and 
my  men  had  to  go  supperless  to  bed.  Baraka  offered  him  one 
common  cloth,  and  then  another — all  of  which  he  rejected  with 
such  impetuosity  that  Baraka  said  his  head  was  all  on  a whirl. 
Makaka  insisted  he  would  have  a deole,  or  nothing  at  all.  I pro- 
tested I had  no  deoles  I could  give  him,  for  all  the  expensive 
cloths  which  I had  brought  from  the  coast  had  been  stolen  in 
Mgiinda  Mkhali.  I had  three,  however,  concealed  at  the  time — 
which  I had  bought  from  Musa,  at  forty  dollars  each — intended 
for  the  kings  of  Karaghe  and  Uganda. 

Incessant  badgering  went  on  for  hours  and  hours,  until  at  last 
Baraka,  clean  done  with  the  incessant  worry  of  this  hot-headed 
young  chief,  told  him,  most  unfortunately,  he  would  see  again  if 
he  could  find  a deole,  as  he  had  one  of  his  own.  Baraka  then 
brought  one  to  my  tent,  and  told  me  of  his  having  bought  it  for 
eight  dollars  at  the  coast ; and  as  I now  saw  I was  let  in  for  it,  I 
told  him  to  give  it.  It  was  given,  but  Makaka  no  sooner  saw  it 
than  he  said  he  must  have  another  one ; for  it  was  all  nonsense 
saying  a white  man  had  no  rich  cloths.  Whenever  he  met  Arabs, 
they  all  said  they  were  poor  men,  who  obtained  all  their  mer- 
chandise from  the  white  men  on  credit,  which  they  refunded  aft- 
erward by  levying  a heavy  percentage  on  the  sale  of  their  ivory. 

I would  not  give  way  that  night;  but  next  day,  after  fearful 
battling,  the  present  of  friendship  was  paid  by  Bara- 
ka’s giving  first  a dubuani,  then  one  sahari,  then  one 
barsati,  then  one  kisutu,  and  then  eight  yards  of  merikani — all  of 
which  were  contested  in  the  most  sickening  manner — when  Bara- 
ka, fairly  done  up,  was  relieved  by  Makaka’s  saying,  “That  will 
do  for  friendship;  if  you  had  given  the  deole  quietly,  all  this 
trouble  would  have  been  saved ; for  I am  not  a bad  man,  as  you 
will  see.”  My  men  then  had  their  first  dinner  here,  after  which 
the  hongo  had  to  be  paid.  This  for  the  first  time  was,  however, 


June.] 


UZINZA. 


141 


more  easily  settled,  because  Makaka  at  once  said  he  would  never 
be  satisfied  until  he  had  received,  if  I had  really  not  got  a dfiole, 
exactly  double  in  equivalents  of  all  I had  given  him.  This  was 
a fearful  drain  on  my  store ; but  the  Pig,  seeing  my  concern, 
merely  laughed  at  it,  and  said,  “ Oh,  these  savage  chiefs  are  all 
alike  here ; you  will  have  one  of  these  taxes  to  pay  every  stage 
to  Uyofu,  and  then  the  heavy  work  will  begin ; for  all  these  men, 
although  they  assume  the  dignity  of  chief  to  themselves,  are  mere 
officers,  who  have  to  pay  tribute  to  Suwarora,  and  he  would  be 
angry  if  they  were  shortcoming.” 

The  drums  as  yet  had  not  beaten,  for  Makaka  said  he  would 
not  be  satisfied  until  we  had  exchanged  presents,  to  prove  that 
we  were  the  best  of  friends.  To  do  this  last  act  properly,  I was 
to  get  ready  whatever  I wished  to  give  him,  while  he  would  come 
and  visit  me  with  a bullock ; but  I was  to  give  him  a royal  salute, 
or  the  drums  would  not  beat.  I never  felt  so  degraded  as  when 
I complied,  and  gave  orders  to  my  men  to  fire  a volley  as  he  ap- 
proached my  tent ; but  I ate  the  dirt  with  a good  grace,  and  met 
the  young  chief  as  if  nothing  had  happened.  My  men,  however, 
could  not  fire  the  salute  fast  enough  for  him ; for  he  was  one  of 
those  excitable,  impulsive  creatures  who  expect  others  to  do  every 
thing  in  as  great  a hurry  as  their  minds  wander.  The  moment 
the  first  volley  was  fired,  he  said,  “ Now  fire  again,  fire  again ; be 
quick,  be  quick ! What’s  the  use  of  those  things  ?”  (meaning  the 
guns.)  “We  could  spear  you  all  while  you  are  loading : be  quick, 
be  quick,  I tell  you.”  But  Baraka,  to  give  himself  law,  said,  “ dSTo ; 
I must  ask  Bana”  (master)  “ first,  as  we  do  every  thing  by  order ; 
this  is  not  fighting  at  all.” 

The  men  being  ready,  file-firing  was  ordered,  and  then  the  young- 
chief  came  into  my  tent.  I motioned  him  to  take  my  chair,  which, 
after  he  sat  down  upon  it,  I was  very  sorry  for,  as  he  stained  the 
seat  all  black  with  the  running  color  of  one  of  the  new  barsati 
cloths  he  had  got  from  me,  which,  to  improve  its  appearance,  he 
had  saturated  with  stinking  butter,  and  had  tied  round  his  loins. 
A fine-looking  man  of  about  thirty,  he  wore  the  butt-end  of  a 
large  sea-shell  cut  in  a circle,  and  tied  on  his  forehead,  for  a coro- 
net, and  sundry  small  saltiana  antelope  horns,  stuffed  with  magic 
powder,  to  keep  off  the  evil  eye.  His  attendants  all  fawned  on 
him,  and  snapped  their  fingers  whenever  he  sneezed.  After  pass- 
ing the  first  compliment,  I gave  him  a barsati,  as  my  token  of 
friendship,  and  asked  him  what  he  saw  when  he  went  to  the  Ma- 


142 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[I8G1. 


sai  country.  He  assured  me  “ that  there  were  two  lakes,  and  not 
one for,  on  going  from  Usoga  to  the  Masai  country,  he  crossed 
over  a broad  strait,  which  connected  the  big  N’yanza  with  another 
one  at  its  northeast  corner.  Fearfully  impetuous,  as  soon  as  this 
answer  was  given,  he  said,  “ Now  I have  replied  to  your  ques- 
tions, do  you  show  me  all  the  things  you  have  got,  for  I want  to 
see  every  thing,  and  be  very  good  friends.  I did  not  see  you  the 
first  day,  because,  you  being  a stranger,  it  was  necessary  I should 
first  look  into  the  magic  horn  to  see  if  all  was  right  and  safe ; and 
now  I can  assure  you  that,  while  I saw  I was  safe,  I also  saw  that 
your  road  would  be  prosperous.  I am  indeed  delighted  to  see 
you,  for  neither  my  father,  nor  any  of  my  forefathers,  ever  were 
honored  with  the  company  of  a white  man  in  all  their  lives.” 

My  guns,  clothes,  and  every  thing  were  then  inspected,  and 
begged  for  in  the  most  importunate  manner.  He  asked  for  the 
picture-books,  examined  the  birds  with  intense  delight — even  try- 
ing to  insert  under  their  feathers  his  long  royal  finger-nails,  which 
are  grown  like  a Chinaman’s  by  these  chiefs,  to  show  they  have  a 
privilege  to  live  on  meat.  Then  turning  to  the  animals,  he  roared 
over  each  one  in  turn  as  he  examined  them,  and  called  out  their 
names.  My  bull’s-eye  lantern  he  coveted  so  much,  I had  to  pre- 
tend exceeding  anger  to  stop  his  farther  importunities.  He  then 
began  again  begging  for  lucifers,  which  charmed  him  so  intensely 
I thought  I should  never  get  rid  of  him.  He  would  have  one 
box  of  them.  I swore  I could  not  part  with  them.  He  contin- 
ued to  beg,  and  I to  resist.  I offered  a knife  instead,  but  this  he 
would  not  have,  because  the  lucifers  would  be  so  valuable  for  his 
magical  observances.  On  went  the  storm,  till  at  last  I drove  him 
off  with  a pair  of  my  slippers,  which  he  had  stuck  his  dirty  feet 
into  without  my  leave.  I then  refused  to  take  his  bullock  because 
he  had  annoyed  me.  On  his  part,  he  was  resolved  not  to  beat 
the  drum ; but  he  graciously  said  he  would  think  about  it  if  I 
paid  another  lot  of  cloth  equal  to  the  second  deole  I ought  to  have 
given  him. 

I began  seriously  to  consider  whether  I should  have  this  chief 
shot,  as  a reward  for  his  oppressive  treachery,  and  a warning  to 
others;  but  the  Pig  said  it  was  just  what  the  Arabs  were  subject- 
ed to  in  Ubena,  and  they  found  it  best  to  pay  down  at  once,  and 
do  all  they  were  ordered.  If  I acted  rightly,  I would  take  the 
bullock,  and  then  give  the  cloth;  while  Baraka  said,  “We  will 
shoot  him  if  you  give  the  order ; only  remember  Grant  is  behind, 


June.]  UZ1NZA.  148 

and  if  you  commence  a row  you  will  have  to  fight  the  whole  way, 
for  every  chief  in  the  country  will  oppose  you.” 

I then  told  the  Pig  and  Baraka  to  settle  at  once.  They  no 
sooner  did  so  than  the  drums  beat,  and  Makaka,  in  the  best  hu- 
mor possible,  came  over  to  say  I had  permission  to  go  when  I 
liked,  but  he  hoped  I would  give  him  a gun  and  a box  of  lucifers. 
This  was  too  provoking.  The  perpetual  worry  had  given  Baraka 
a fever,  and  had  made  me  feel  quite  sick ; so  I said,  if  he  ever 
mentioned  a gun  or  lucifers  again,  I would  fight  the  matter  out 
with  him,  for  I had  not  come  there  to  be  bullied.  He  then  gave 
way,  and  begged  I would  allow  my  men  to  fire  a volley  outside 
his  boma,  as  the  Watuta  were  living  behind  a small  line  of  granit- 
ic hills  flanking  the  west  of  his  district,  and  he  wished  to  show 
them  what  a powerful  force  he  had  got  with  him.  This  was  per- 
mitted ; but  his  wisdom  in  showing  off  was  turned  into  ridicule ; 
for  the  same  evening  the  Watuta  made  an  attack  on  his  villages 
and  killed  three  of  his  subjects,  but  were  deterred  from  commit- 
ting farther  damage  by  coming  in  contact  with  my  men,  who,  as 
soon  as  they  saw  the  Watuta  fighting,  fired  their  muskets  off  in 
the  air  and  drove  them  away,  they  themselves  at  the  same  time 
bolting  into  my  camp,  and  as  usual  vaunting  their  prowess. 

I then  ordered  a march  for  the  next  morning,  and  went  out  in 
the  fields  to  take  my  regular  observations  for  latitude.  While 
engaged  in  this  operation,  Baraka,  accompanied  by  Wadimoyo 
(Heart’s-stream),  another  of  my  free  men,  approached  me  in  great 
consternation,  whispering  to  themselves.  They  said  they  had 
some  fearful  news  to  communicate,  which,  when  I heard  it,  they 
knew  would  deter  our  progress : it  was  of  such  great  moment  and 
magnitude,  they  thought  they  could  not  deliver  it  then.  I said, 
“ What  nonsense ! out  with  it  at  once.  Are  we  such  chickens  that 
we  can  not  speak  about  matters  like  men  ? out  with  it  at  once.” 
Then  Baraka  said,  “ I have  just  heard  from  Makaka  that  a man 
who  arrived  from  Usui  only  a few  minutes  ago  has  said  Suwa- 
rora  is  so  angry  with  the  Arabs  that  he  has  detained  one  caravan 
of  theirs  in  his  country,  and,  separating  the  whole  of  their  men, 
has  placed  each  of  them  in  different  bomas,  with  orders  to  his  vil- 
lage officers  that,  in  case  the  Watuta  came  into  his  country,  with- 
out farther  ceremony  they  were  to  be  all  put  to  death.”  I said, 
“ Oh,  Baraka,  how  can  you  be  such  a fool  ? Do  you  not  see 
through  this  humbug?  Makaka  only  wishes  to  keep  us  here  to 
frighten  away  the  Watuta ; for  God’s  sake  be  a man,  and  don’t  be 


144 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


alarmed  at  sucli  phantoms  as  these.  You  always  are  nagging  at 
me  that  Bombay  is  the  1 big’  and  you  are  the  ‘ small’  man.  Bom- 
bay would  never  be  frightened  in  this  silly  way.  Now  do  you 
reflect  that  I have  selected  you  for  this  journey,  as  it  would,  if 
you  succeed  with  me  in  carrying  out  our  object,  stamp  you  for- 
ever as  a man  of  great  fame.  Pray  don’t  give  way,  but  do  your 
best  to  encourage  the  men,  and  let  us  march  in  the  morning.”  On 
this,  as  on  other  occasions  of  the  same  kind,  I tried  to  impart  con- 
fidence by  explaining,  in  allusion  to  Petherick’s  expedition,  that 
I had  arranged  to  meet  white  men  coming  up  from  the  north. 
Baraka  at  last  said,  “ All  right — I am  not  afraid;  I will  do  as  you 
desire.”  But  as  the  two  were  walking  off,  I heard  Wadimoyo 
say  to  Baraka,  “Is  he  not  afraid  now?  Won’t  he  go  back?” 
which,  if  any  thing,  alarmed  me  more  than  the  first  intelligence ; 
for  I began  to  think  that  they,  and  not  Makaka,  had  got  up  the 
story. 

All  night  Makaba’s  men  patroled  the  village,  drumming  and 
shouting  to  keep  off  the  Watiita,  and  the  next  morning,  instead 
of  a march,  after  striking  my  tent,  I found  that  the  whole  of  my 
porters,  the  Pig’s  children,  were  not  to  be  found.  They  had  gone 
off  and  hidden  themselves,  saying  they  were  not  such  fools  as  to 
go  any  farther,  as  the  Watuta  were  out,  and  would  cut  us  up  on 
the  road.  This  was  sickening  indeed. 

I knew  the  porters  had  not  gone  far,  so  I told  the  Pig  to  bring 
them  to  me,  that  we  might  talk  the  matter  over ; but,  say  what  I 
would,  they  all  swore  they  would  not  advance  a step  farther. 
Most  of  them  were  formerly  men  of  Utambara.  The  Watuta  had 
invaded  their  country  and  totally  destroyed  it,  killing  all  their 
wives  and  their  children,  and  despoiling  every  thing  they  held 
dear  to  them.  They  did  not  wish  to  rob  me,  and  would  give  up 
their  hire,  but  not  one  step  more  would  they  advance.  Makaka 
then  came  forward  and  said,  “Just  stop  here  with  me  until  this 
ill  wind  blows  over;”  but  Baraka,  more  in  a fright  at  Makaka 
than  at  any  one  else,  said  No ; he  would  do  any  thing  rather  than 
that;  for  Makaka’s  bullying  had  made  him  quite  ill.  I then 
said  to  my  men,  “ If  nothing  else  will  suit  you,  the  best  plan  I can 
think  of  is  to  return  to  Mihambo  in  Bogue,  and  there  form  a de- 
pot, where,  having  stored  my  property,  I shall  give  the  Pig  a 
whole  load,  or  63  lbs.,  of  Mzizima  beads  if  he  will  take  Baraka  in 
disguise  on  to  Suwarora,  and  ask  him  to  send  me  eighty  men, 
while  I go  back  to  Unyanyembe  to  see  what  men  I can  get  from 


June.] 


UZINZA. 


145 


the  late  Musa’s  establishment,  and  then  we  might  bring  on  Grant, 
and  move  on  in  a body  together.”  At  first  Baraka  said,  “ Do  you 
wish  to  have  us  killed  ? Do  you  think,  if  we  went  to  Suwarora’s, 
you  would  ever  see  us  back  again?  You  would  wait  and  wait 
for  us,  but  we  should  never  return.”  To  which  I replied,  “Oh, 
Baraka,  do  not  think  so  ! Bombay,  if  he  were  here,  would  go  in 
a minute.  Suwarora  by  this  time  knows  I am  coming,  and  you 
may  depend  on  it  he  will  be  just  as  anxious  to  have  us  in  Usui  as 
Makaka  is  to  keep  us  here,  and  he  can  not  hurt  us,  as  Rumanika 
is  over  him,  and  also  expects  us.”  Baraka  then,  in  the  most  dole- 
ful manner,  said  he  would  go  if  the  Pig  would.  The  Pig,  how- 
ever, did  not  like  it  either,  but  said  the  matter  was  so  important 
he  would  look  into  the  magic  horn  all  night,  and  give  his  answer 
next  morning  as  soon  as  we  arrived  at  Mihambo. 

On  arrival  at  Mihambo  next  day,  all  the  porters  brought  their 
Ketum  to  pay  t°  me;  and  said  they  would  not  go,  for  nothing 
Mihambo,  19th.  wou]c]  induce  them  to  advance  a step  farther.  I said 
nothing ; but,  with  “ my  heart  in  my  shoes,”  I gave  what  I thought 
their  due  for  coming  so  far,  and  motioned  them  to  be  off ; then 
calling  on  the  Pig  for  his  decision,  I tried  to  argue  again,  though 
I saw  it  was  of  no  use,  for  there  was  not  one  of  my  own  men  who 
wished  to  go  on.  They  were  unanimous  in  saying  Usui  was  a 
“fire,”  and  I had  no  right  to  sacrifice  them.  The  Pig  then  final- 
ly refused,  saying  three  loads  even  would  not  tempt  him,  for  all 
were  opposed  to  it.  Of  what  value,  he  observed,  would  the  beads 
be  to  him  if  his  life  was  lost  ? This  was  crushing ; the  whole 
camp  was  unanimous  in  opposing  me.  I then  made  Baraka  place 
all  my  kit  in  the  middle  of  the  boma,  which  was  a very  strong 
one,  keeping  out  only  such  beads  as  I wished  him  to  use  for  the 
men’s  rations  daily,  and  ordered  him  to  select  a few  men  who 
would  return  with  me  to  Kaze ; when  I said,  if  I could  not  get 
all  the  men  I wanted,  I would  try  and  induce  some  one,  who 
would  not  fear,  to  go  on  to  Usui ; failing  which,  I would  even 
walk  back  to  Zanzibar  for  men,  as  nothing  in  the  world  would 
ever  induce  me  to  give  up  the  journey. 

This  appeal  did  not  move  him  ; but,  without  a reply,  he  sullen- 
ly commenced  collecting  some  men  to  accompany  me  back  to 
Kaz 6.  At  first  no  one  would  go;  they  then  mutinied  for  more 
beads,  announcing  all  sorts  of  grievances,  which  they  said  they 
were  always  talking  over  to  themselves,  though  I did  not  hear 
them.  The  greatest,  however,  that  they  could  get  up  was,  that  I 

K 


146 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


always  paid  the  Wanyamuezi  “temporaries”  more  than  they  got, 
though  “ permanents.”  “ They  were  the  flesh,  and  I was  the 
knife I cut  and  did  with  them  just  as  I liked,  and  they  could 
not  stand  it  any  longer.  However,  they  had  to  stand  it;  and 
next  day,  when  I brought  them  to  reason,  I gave  over  the  charge 
of  my  tent  and  property  to  Baraka,  and  commenced  the  return 
with  a bad  hitching  cough,  caused  by  those  cold  easterly  winds 
that  blow  over  the  plateau  during  the  six  dry  months  of  the  year, 
and  which  are,  I suppose,  the  Harmattan  peculiar  to  Africa. 

Next  day  I joined'Grant  once  more,  and  found  he  had  collect- 
ed a few  Sorombo  men,  hoping  to  follow  after  me.  I then  told 
him  all  my  mishaps  in  Sorombo,  as  well  as  of  the  “ blue-devil” 
frights  that  had  seized  all  my  men.  I felt  greatly  alarmed  about 
the  prospects  of  the  expedition,  scarcely  knowing  what  I should 
• do.  I resolved  at  last,  if  every  thing  else  failed,  to  make  up  a raft 
at  the  southern  end  of  the  N’yanza,  and  try  to  go  up  to  the  Nile 
in  that  way.  My  cough  daily  grew  worse.  I could  not  lie  or 
sleep  on  either  side.  Still  my  mind  was  so  excited  and  anxious 
that,  after  remaining  one  day  here  to  enjoy  Grant’s  society,  I 
pushed  ahead  again,  taking  Bombay  with  me,  and  had  breakfast 
at  Mchimdka’s. 

There  I found  the  Pig,  who  now  said  he  wished  he  had  taken 
my  offer  of  beads,  for  he  had  spoken  with  his  chief,  and  saw  that 
I was  right.  Baraka  and  the  Wanguana  were  humbugs,  and  had 
they  not  opposed  his  going,  he  would  have  gone  then  ; even  now, 
he  said,  he  wished  I would  take  him  again  with  Bombay.  Though 
half  inclined  to  accept  his  offer,  which  would  have  saved  a long 
trudge  to  Kaze,  yet,  as  he  had  tricked  me  so  often,  I felt  there 
would  be  no  security  unless  I could  get  some  coast  interpreters, 
who  would  not  side  with  the  chiefs  against  me  as  he  had  done. 
Prom  this  I went  on  to  Sirboko’s,  and  spent  the  next  day  with 
him  talking  over  my  plans.  The  rafting  up  the  lake  he  thought 
a good  scheme ; but  he  did  not  think  I should  ever  get  through 
Usui  until  all  the  Kaze  merchants  went  north  in  a body,  for  it  was 
no  use  trying  to  force  my  men  against  their  inclinations;  and  if 
I did  not  take  care  how  I handled  them,  he  thought  they  would 
all  desert. 

My  cough  still  grew  worse,  and  became  so  bad  that,  while 
mounting  a hill  on  entering  Ungugu’s  the  second  day  after,  I blew 
and  grunted  like  a broken-winded  horse,  and  it  became  so  dis- 
tressing I had  to  halt  a day.  In  two  more  marches,  however,  I 


July.] 


UZINZA. 


147 


reached  Kaze,  and  put  up  with  Musa’s  eldest  son,  Abdalla,  on  the 
2d  of  July,  who  now  was  transformed  from  a drunken  slovenly 
boy  into  the  appearance  of  a grand  swell,  squatting  all  day  as  his 
old  father  used  to  do.  The  house,  however,  did  not  feel  the  same ; 
no  men  respected  him  as  they  had  done  his  father.  Sheikh  Said 
was  his  clerk  and  constant  companion,  and  the  Tots  were  well  fed 
on  his  goats — at  my  expense,  however.  On  hearing  my  fix,  Ab- 
dalla said  I should  have  men  ; and,  what’s  more,  he  would  go  with 
me  as  his  father  had  promised  to  do ; but  he  had  a large  caravan 
detained  in  Ugogo,  and  for  that  he  must  wait. 

At  that  moment  Manila  Sera  was  in  a boma  at  Kigue,  in  alli- 
ance with  the  chief  of  that  place ; but  there  was  no  hope  for  him 
now,  as  all  the  Arabs  had  allied  themselves  with  the  surrounding 
chiefs,  including  Kitambi,  and  had  invested  his  position  by  form- 
ing a line,  in  concentric  circles,  four  deep,  cutting  off  his  supplies 
of  water  within  it,  so  that  they  daily  expected  to  hear  of  his  sur- 
rendering. The  last  news  that  had  reached  them  brought  intelli- 
gence of  one  man  killed  and  two  Arabs  wounded ; while,  on  the 
other  side,  Manua  Sera  had  lost  many  men,  and  was  put  to  such 
straits  that  he  had  called  out  if  it  was  the  Arabs’  determination 
to  kill  him  he  would  bolt  again ; to  which  the  Arabs  replied  it 
was  all  the  same;  if  he  ran  up  to  the  top  of  the  highest  mount- 
ain or  down  into  hell,  they  would  follow  after  and  put  him  to 
death. 

3d.  After  much  bother  and  many  disappointments,  as  I was  as- 
sured I could  get  no  men  to  help  me  until  after  the  war  was 
over,  and  the  Arabs  had  been  to  Ugogo,  and  had  brought  up 
their  property,  which  was  still  lying  there,  I accepted  two  men 
as  guides — one  named  Bui,  a very  small  creature,  with  very  high 
pretensions,  who  was  given  me  by  Abdalla ; the  other,  a steady 
old  traveler,  named  Nasib  (or  Fortune),  who  was  given  me  by 
Fundi  Sangoro.  These  two  slaves,  both  of  whom  knew  all  the 
chiefs  and  languages  up  to  and  including  Uganda,  promised  me 
faithfully  they  would  go  with  Bombay  on  to  Usui,  and  bring 
back  porters  in  sufficient  number  for  Grant  and  myself  to  go  on 
together.  They  laughed  at  the  stories  I told  them  of  the  terror 
that  had  seized  Baraka  and  all  the  Wanguana,  and  told  me,  as 
old  Musa  had  often  done  before,  that  those  men,  especially  Bara- 
ka, had  from  their  first  leaving  Kaze  made  up  their  minds  they 
would  not  enter  Usui,  or  go  any  where  very  far  north. 

I placed  those  men  on  the  same  pay  as  Bombay,  and  then  tried 


148 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


to  buy  some  beads  from  the  Arabs,  as  I saw  it  was  absolutel}- 
necessary  I should  increase  my  fast-ebbing  store  if  I ever  hoped 
to  reach  Gondokoro.  The  attempt  failed,  as  the  Arabs  would 
not  sell  at  a rate  under  2000  per  cent. ; and  I wrote  a letter  to 
Colonel  Rigby,  ordering  up  fifty  armed  men  laden  with  beads 
and  pretty  cloths — which  would,  I knew,  cost  me  £1000  at  the 
least — and  left  once  more  for  the  north  on  the  5th. 

Marching  slowly,  as  my  men  kept  falling  sick,  I did  not  reach 
Grant  again  until  the  11th.  His  health  had' greatly  improved, 
and  he  had  been  dancing  with  Ukulima,  as  may  be  seen  by  the 
accompanjdng  woodcut.  So,  as  I was  obliged  to  wait  for  a short 
time  to  get  a native  guide  for  Bui,  Nasib,  and  Bombay,  who 
would  show  them  a jungle-path  to  Usui,  we  enjoyed  our  leisure 
hours  in  shooting  Guinea-fowls  for  the  pot.  A report  then  came 
to  us  that  Suwarora  had  heard  with  displeasure  that  I had  been 
endeavoring  to  see  him,  but  was  deterred  because  evil  reports 
concerning  him  had  been  spread.  This  unexpected  good  news 
delighted  me  exceedingly ; confirmed  my  belief  that  Baraka^ 
after  all,  was  a coward,  and  induced  me  to  recommend  Bombay 
to  make  his  cowardice  more  indisputable  by  going  on  and  doing 
what  he  had  feared  to  do.  To  which  Bombay  replied,  “Of  course 
I will.  It  is  all  folly  pulling  up  for  every  ill  wind  that  blows, 
because,  until  one  actually  sees  there  is  something  in  it,  you  never 
can  tell  among  these  savages,  1 shaves'  are  so  common  in  Africa. 
Besides,  a man  has  but  one  life,  and  God  is  the  director  of  every 
thing.”  “Bravo!”  said  I;  “we  will  get  on  as  long  as  you  keep 
to  that  way  of  thinking.” 

At  length  a guide  was  obtained,  and  with  him  came  some  of 
those  men  of  the  Pig’s  who  returned  before;  for  they  had  a great 
desire  to  go  with  me,  but  had  been  deterred,  they  said,  by  Baraka 
and  the  rest  of  my  men.  Seeing  all  this,  I changed  my  plans 
again,  intending,  on  arrival  at  Baraka’s  camp,  to  prevail  on  the 
whole  of  the  party  to  go  with  me  direct,  which  I thought  they 
could  not  now  refuse,  since  Suwarora  had  sent  us  an  invitation. 
Moreover,  I did  not  like  the  idea  of  remaining  still  while  the 
three  men  went  forward,  as  it  would  be  losing  time. 

These  separations  from  Grant  were  most  annoying,  but  they 
could  not  be  helped ; so,  when  all  was  settled  here,  I bade  him 
adieu — both  of  us  saying  we  would  do  our  best — and  set  out  on 
my  journey,  thinking  what  a terrible  thing  it  was  I could  not 
prevail  on  my  men  to  view  things  as  I did.  Neither  my  experi- 


\ 


I 


I 


/ 


July.] 


UZINZA. 


151 


ence  with  native  chiefs,  nor  mj  money  and  guns,  were  of  any  use 
to  me,  simply  because  my  men  were  such  incomprehensible  fools, 
though  many  of  them  who  had  traveled  before  ought  to  have 
known  better. 

More  reports  came  to  us  about  Suwarora,  all  of  the  most  invit- 
ing nature;  but  nothing  else  worth  mentioning  occurred  until  we 
reached  the  border  of  Msalala,  where  an  officer  of  M’yonga’s,  who 
said  he  was  a bigger  man  than  his  chief,  demanded  a tax,  which 
I refused,  and  the  dispute  ended  in  his  snatching  ISTasib’s  gun  out 
of  his  hands.  I thought  little  of  this  affair  myself  beyond  re- 
gretting the  delay  which  it  might  occasion,  as  M’yonga,  I knew, 
would  not  permit  such  usage,  if  I chose  to  go  round  by  his  palace 
and  make  a complaint.  Both  Biii  and  Nasib,  however,  were  so 
greatly  alarmed,  that  before  I could  say  a word  they  got  the  gun 
back  again  by  paying  four  yards  merikani.  We  had  continued 
bickering  again,  for  Bui  had  taken  such  fright  at  this  kind  of 
rough  handling,  and  the  “push-ahead”  manner  in  which  I per- 
sisted “riding  over  the  lords  of  the  soil,”  that  I could  hardly 
drag  the  party  along. 

However,  on  the  18th,  after  breakfasting  at  Ruhe’s,  we  walked 
into  Mihambo,  and  took  all  the  camp  by  surprise.  I found  the 
Union  Jack  hoisted  up  on  a flag-staff,  high  above  all  the  trees,  in 
the  boma.  Baraka  said  he  had  done  this  to  show  the  Watuta 
that  the  place  was  occupied  by  men  with  guns — a necessary  pre- 
caution, as  all  the  villages  in  the  neighborhood  had,  since  my  de- 
parture, been  visited  and  plundered  by  them.  Lumeresi,  the  chief 
of  the  district,  who  lived  ten  miles  to  the  eastward,  had  been  con- 
stantly pressing  him  to  leave  this  post  and  come  to  his  palace,  as 
he  felt  greatly  affronted  at  our  having  shunned  him  and  put  up 
with  Ruhe.  He  did  not  want  property,  he  said,  but  he  could  not 
bear  that  the  strangers  had  lived  with  his  mtoto,  or  child,  which 
Ruhe  was,  and  yet  would  not  live  with  him.  He  thought  Bara- 
ka’s determined  obstinacy  on  this  could  only  be  caused  by  the  in- 
fluence of  the  head  man  of  the  village,  and  threatened  that  if 
Baraka  did  not  come  to  visit  him  at  once,  he  would  have  the  head 
man  beheaded.  Then,  shifting  round  a bit,  he  thought  of  order- 
ing his  subjects  to  starve  the  visitors  into  submission,  and  said 
he  must  have  a hongo  equal  to  Ruhe’s.  To  all  this  Baraka  re- 
plied that  he  was  merely  a servant,  and  as  he  had  orders  to  stop 
where  he  was,  he  could  not  leave  it  until  I came;  but,  to  show 
there  was  no  ill  feeling  toward  him,  he  sent  the  chief  a cloth. 


152 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


These  first  explanations  over,  I entered  my  tent,  in  which 
Baraka  had  been  living,  and  there  I found  a lot  of  my  brass  wires 
on  the  ground,  lying  scattered  about.  I did  not  like  the  look  of 
this,  so  ordered  Bombay  to  resume  his  position  of  factotum,  and 
count  over  the  kit.  While  this  was  going  on,  a villager  came  to 
me  with  a wire,  and  asked  me  to  change  it  for  a cloth.  I saw  at 
once  what  the  game  was ; so  I asked  my  friend  where  he  got  it, 
on  which  he  at  once  pointed  to  Baraka.  I then  heard  the  men 
who  were  standing  round  us  say  one  to  another  in  under  tones, 
giggling  with  the  fun  of  it,  “Oh,  what  a shame  of  him ! Did  you 
hear  what  Bana  said,  and  that  fool’s  reply  to  it?  What  a shame 
of  him  to  tell  in  that  way.”  Without  appearing  to  know,  or 
rather  to  hear,  the  by-play  that  was  going  on,  I now  said  to  Bara- 
ka, “ How  is  it  this  man  has  got  one  of  my  wires,  for  I told  you 
not  to  touch  or  unpack  them  during  my  absence?”  To  which 
he  coolly  replied,  in  face  of  such  evidence,  “ It  is  not  one  of  your 
wires;  I never  gave  away  one  of  yours;  there  are  lots  more 
wires  besides  yours  in  the  country.  The  man  tells  a falsehood ; 
he  had  the  wire  before,  but  now,  seeing  your  cloth  open,  wants 
to  exchange  it.”  “If  that  is  the  case,”  I said,  taking  things  easy, 
“how  is  it  you  have  opened  my  loads  and  scattered  the  wires 
about  in  the  tent?”  “Oh,  that  was  to  take  care  of  them;  for  I 
thought,  if  they  were  left  outside  all  night  with  the  rest  of  the 
property,  some  one  would  steal  them,  and  I should  get  the  blame 
of  it.” 

Farther  parley  was  useless;  for,  though  both  my  wires  and 
cloths  were  short,  still  it  was  better  not  to  kick  up  a row,  when  I 
had  so  much  to  do  to  keep  all  my  men  in  good  temper  for  the 
journey.  Baraka  then,  wishing  to  beguile  me,  as  he  thought  he 
could  do,  into  believing  him  a wonderful  man  for  both  pluck  and 
honesty,  said  he  had  had  many  battles  to  fight  with  the  men  since 
I had  been  gone  to  Kaze,  for  there  were  two  strong  parties  in  the 
camp ; those  who,  during  the  late  rebellion  at  Zanzibar,  had  be- 
longed to  the  Arabs  that  sided  with  Sultan  Majid,  and  were  Roy- 
alists, and  those  who,  having  belonged  to  the  rebellious  Arabs, 
were  on  the  opposite  side.  The  battle  commenced,  he  stated,  by 
the  one  side  abusing  the  other  for  their  deeds  during  that  rebel- 
lion, the  rebels  in  this  sort  of  contest  proving  themselves  the 
stronger.  But  he,  heading  the  Royalist  party,  soon  reduced  them 
to  order,  though  only  for  a short  while,  as  from  that  point  they 
turned  round  to  open  mutiny  for  more  rations ; and  some  of  the 


July.] 


UZINZA. 


153 


rebels  tried  to  kill  him,  which,  he  said,  they  would  have  done  had 
he  not  settled  the  matter  by  buying  some  cows  for  them.  It  was 
on  this  account  he  had  been  obliged  to  open  my  loads.  And  now 
he  had  told  me  the  case,  he  hoped  I would  forgive  him  if  he  had 
done  wrong.  Now  the  real  facts  of  the  case  were  these,  though  I 
did  not  find  them  out  at  the  time : Baraka  had  bought  some  slaves 
with  my  effects,  and  he  had  had  a fight  with  some  of  my  men  be- 
cause they  tampered  with  his  temporary  wife — a princess  he  had 
picked  up  in  Phiinze.  To  obtain  her  hand  he  had  given  ten 
necklaces  of  my  beads  to  her  mother,  and  had  agreed  to  the  con- 
dition that  he  should  keep  the  girl  during  the  journey ; and  after 
it  was  over,  and  he  took  her  home,  he  would,  if  his  wife  pleased 
him,  give  her  mother  ten  necklaces  more. 

Next  day  Baraka  told  me  his  heart  shrank  to  the  dimensions 
of  a very  small  berry  when  he  saw  whom  I had  brought  with  me 
yesterday,  meaning  Bombay,  and  the  same  porters  whom  he  had 
prevented  going  on  with  me  before.  I said,  “Pooh!  nonsense; 
have  done  with  such  excuses,  and  let  us  get  away  out  of  this  as 
fast  as  we  can.  Now,  like  a good  man,  just  use  your  influence 
with  the  chief  of  the  village,  and  try  and  get  from  him  five  or  six 
men  to  complete  the  number  we  want,  and  then  we  will  work 
round  the  east  of  Sorombo  up  to  Usui,  for  Suwarora  has  invited 
us  to  him.”  This,  however,  was  not  so  easy ; for  Lumeresi,  hav- 
ing heard  of  my  arrival,  sent  his  Wanyapara,  or  graybeards,  to 
beg  I would  visit  him.  He  had  never  seen  a white  man  in  all 
his  life,  neither  had  his  father,  nor  any  of  his  forefathers,  although 
he  had  often  been  down  to  the  coast;  I must  come  and  see  him, 
as  I had  seen  his  mtoto  Ruhe.  He  did  not  want  property ; it 
was  only  the  pleasure  of  my  company  that  he  wanted,  to  enable 
him  to  tell  all  his  friends  what  a great  man  had  lived  in  his  house. 

This  was  terrible : I saw  at  once  that  all  my  difficulties  in  So- 
rombo would  have  to  be  gone  through  again  if  I went  there,  and 
groaned  when  I thought  what  a trick  the  Pig  had  played  me 
when  I first  of  all  came  to  this  place;  for  if  I had  gone  on  then, 
as  I wished,  I should  have  slipped  past  Lumeresi  without  his 
knowing  it. 

I had  to  get  up  a storm  at  the  graybeards,  and  said  I could  not 
stand  going  out  of  my  road  to  see  any  one  now,  for  I had  already 
lost  so  much  time  by  Makaka’s  trickery  in  Sorombo.  Bui  then, 
quaking  with  fright  at  my  obstinacy,  said,  “You  must — indeed 
you  must — give  in  and  do  with  these  savage  chiefs  as  the  Arabs 


154 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


when  they  travel,  for  I will  not  be  a party  to  riding  roughshod 
over  them.”  Still  I stuck  out,  and  the  graybeards  departed  to 
tell  their  chief  of  it.  Next  morning  he  sent  them  back  again  to 
say  he  would  not  be  cheated  out  of  his  rights  as  the  chief  of  the 
district.  Still  I would  not  give  in,  and  the  whole  day  kept  “jaw- 
ing” without  effect,  for  I could  get  no  man  to  go  with  me  until 
the  chief  gave  his  sanction.  I then  tried  to  send  Bombay  off  with 
Bui,  Nasib,  and  their  guide,  by  night;  but,  though  Bombay  was 
willing,  the  other  two  hung  back  on  the  old  plea.  In  this. state 
of  perplexity,  Bui  begged  I would  allow  him  to  go  over  to  Lumd- 
resi  and  see  what  he  could  do  with  a present.  Bui  really  now 
was  my  only  stand-by,  so  I sent  him  off,  and  next  had  the  morti- 
fication to  find  that  he  had  been  humbugged  by  honeyed  words, 
as  Baraka  had  been  with  Makaka,  into  believing  that  Lumeresi 
was  a good  man,  who  really  had  no  other  desire  at  heart  than  the 
love  of  seeing  me.  His  boma,  he  said,  did  not  lie  much  out  of 
my  line,  and  he  did  not  wish  a stitch  of  my  cloth.  So  far  from 
detaining  me,  he  would  give  me  as  many  men  as  I wanted  ; and, 
as  an  earnest  of  his  good  intentions,  he  sent  his  copper  hatchet, 
the  badge  of  office  as  chief  of  the  district,  as  a guarantee  for  me. 

To  wait  here  any  longer  after  this,  I knew,  would  be  a mere 
to  Lumeresi’ s,  waste  of  time,  so  I ordered  my  men  to  pack  up  that 
23d-  moment,  and  we  all  marched  over  at  once  to  Lumb- 

resi’s,  when  we  put  up  in  his  boma.  Liimdrbsi  was  not  in  then, 
but,  on  his  arrival  at  night,  he  beat  all  his  drums  to  celebrate  the 


Lumer&i’s  Residence. 


July.] 


UZINZA. 


155 


event,  and  fired  a musket,  in  reply  to  which  I fired  three  shots. 
The  same  night,  while  sitting  out  to  make  astronomical  observa- 
tions, I became  deadly  cold ; so  much  so,  that  the  instant  I had 
taken  the  star  to  fix  my  position,  I turned  into  bed,  but  could  not 
get  up  again ; for  the  cough  that  had  stuck  to  me  for  a month 
then  became  so  violent,  heightened  by  fever  succeeding  the  cold 
fit,  that  before  the  next  morning  I was  so  reduced  I could  not 
stand.  For  the  last  month,  too,  I had  not  been  able  to  sleep  on 
either  side,  as  interior  pressure,  caused  by  doing  so,  provoked  the 
cough ; but  now  I had,  in  addition,  to  be  propped  in  position  to 
get  any  repose  whatever.  The  symptoms,  altogether,  were  rather 
alarming,  for  the  heart  felt  inflamed  and  ready  to  burst,  pricking 
and  twingeing  with  every  breath,  which  was  exceedingly  aggra- 
vated by  constant  coughing,  when  streams  of  phlegm  and  bile 
were  ejected.  The  left  arm  felt  half  paralyzed,  the  left  nostril 
was  choked  with  mucus,  and  on  the  centre  of  the  left  shoulder- 
blade  I felt  a pain  as  if  some  one  was  branding  me  with  a hot 
iron.  All  this  was  constant;  and,  in  addition,  I repeatedly  felt 
severe  pains — rather  paroxysms  of  fearful  twinges — in  the  spleen, 
liver,  and  lungs,  while  during  my  sleep  I had  all  sorts  of  absurd 
dreams : for  instance,  I planned  a march  across  Africa  with  Sir 
Eoderick  Murchison  ; and  I fancied  some  curious  creatures,  half 
men  and  half  monkeys,  came  into  my  camp  to  inform  me  that 
Petherick  was  waiting  in  boats  at  the  southwest  corner  of  the 
N’yanza,  etc.,  etc. 

Though  my  mind  was  so  weak  and  excited  when  I woke  up 
from  these  trances,  I thought  of  nothing  but  the  march,  and  how 
I could  get  out  of  Lumeresi’s  hands.  He,  with  the  most  benign 
countenance,  came  in  to  see  me  the  very  first  thing  in  the  morn- 
ing, as  he  said,  to  inquire  after  my  health ; when,  to  please  him 
as  much  as  I could,  I had  a guard  of  honor  drawn  up  at  the  tent 
door  to  fire  a salute  as  he  entered ; then  giving  him  my  iron  camp- 
chair  to  sit  upon,  which  tickled  him  much — for  he  was  very  cor- 
pulent, and  he  thought  its  legs  would  break  down  with  his  weight 
— we  had' a long  talk,  though  it  was  as  much  as  I could  do  to  re- 
member any  thing,  my  brain  was  so  excited  and  weak.  Kind  as 
he  looked  and  spoke,  he  forgot  all  his  promises  about  coveting 
my  property,  and  scarcely  got  over  the  first  salutation  before  he 
began  begging  for  many  things  that  he  saw,  and  more  especially 
for  a deolb,  in  order  that  he  might  wear  it  on  all  great  occasions, 
to  show  his  contemporaries  what  a magnanimous  man  his  white 


156 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


visitor  was.  I soon  lost  my  temper  while  striving  to  settle  the 
hongo.  Lumeresi  would  have  a deole,  and  I would  not  admit 
that  I had  one. 

23c?  to  31s?.  Next  morning  I was  too  weak  to  speak  moderate- 
ly, and  roared  more  like  a madman  than  a rational  being,  as,  break- 
ing his  faith,  he  persisted  in  bullying  me.  The  day  after,  I took 
pills  and  blistered  my  chest  all  over;  still  Lumdresi  would  not 
let  me  alone,  nor  come  to  any  kind  of  terms  until  the  25th,  when 
lie  said  he  would  take  a certain  number  of  pretty  common  cloths 
for  his  children  if  I would  throw  in  a red  blanket  for  himself.  I 
jumped  at  this  concession  with  the  greatest  eagerness,  paid  down 
my  cloths  on  the  spot,  and,  thinking  I was  free  at  last,  ordered  a 
hammock  to  be  slung  on  a pole,  that  I might  leave  the  next  day. 
Next  morning,  however,  on  seeing  me  actually  preparing  to  start, 
Lumeresi  found  he  could  not  let  me  go  until  I increased  the  tax 
by  three  more  cloths,  as  some  of  his  family  complained  that  they 
had  got  nothing.  After  some  badgering,  I paid  what  he  asked 
for,  and  ordered  the  men  to  carry  me  out  of  the  palace  before 
any  thing  else  was  done,  for  I would  not  sleep  another  night  where 
I was.  Lumeresi  then  stood  in  my  way,  and  said  he  would  never 
allow  a man  of  his  country  to  give  me  any  assistance  until  I was 
well,  for  he  could  not  bear  the  idea  of  hearing  it  said  that,  after 
taking  so  many  cloths  from  me,  he  had  allowed  me  to  die  in  the 
jungles,  and  dissuaded  my  men  from  obeying  my  orders. 

In  vain  I appealed  to  his  mercy,  declaring  that  the  only  chance 
left  me  of  saving  my  life  would  be  from  the  change  of  air  in  the 
hammock  as  I marched  along.  He  would  not  listen,  professing 
humanity  while  he  meant  plunder ; and  I now  found  he  was  de- 
termined not  to  beat  the  drum  until  I had  paid  him  some  more, 
which  he  was  to  think  over  and  settle  next  day.  When  the  next 
day  came  he  would  not  come  near  me,  as  he  said  I must  possess 
a deole,  otherwise  I would  not  venture  on  to  Karague;  for  no- 
body ever  yet  “saw”  Kumanika  without  one.  This  suspension 
of  business  was  worse  than  the  rows ; I felt  very  miserable,  and 
became  worse.  At  last,  on  my  offering  him  any  thing  that  he 
might  consider  an  equivalent  for  the  deole  if  he  would  but  beat 
the  drums  of  satisfaction,  he  said  I might  consider  myself  his  pris- 
oner instead  of  his  guest  if  I persisted  in  my  obstinacy  in  not  giv- 
ing him  Bumanika’s  deole,  and  then  again  peremptorily  ordered 
all  of  his  subjects  not  to  assist  me  in  moving  a load.  After  this, 
veering  round  for  a moment  on  the  generous  tack,  he  offered  me 
a cow,  which  I declined. 


Aug.] 


UZINZA. 


157 


1st  to  4th.  Still  I rejected  the  offered  cow  until  the  2d,  when, 
finding  him  as  dogged  as  ever,  at  the  advice  of  my  men  I accept- 
ed it,  hoping  thus  to  please  him ; but  it  was  no  use,  for  he  now 
said  he  must  have  two  deoles,  or  he  would  never  allow  me  to 
leave  his  palace.  Every  day  matters  got  worse  and  worse.  Mfum- 
bi,  the  small  chief  of  Sorombo,  came  over,  in  an  Oily-Gammon  kind 
of  manner,  to  say  Makaka  had  sent  him  over  to  present  his  com- 
pliments to  me,  and  express  his  sorrow  on  hearing  that  I had 
fallen  sick  here.  He  farther  informed  me  that  the  road  was  closed 
between  this  and  Usui,  for  he  had  just  been  fighting  there,  and 
had  killed  the  chief  Gomba,  burnt  down  all  his  villages,  and  dis- 
persed all  the  men  in  the  jungle,  where  they  now  resided,  plun- 
dering every  man  who  passed  that  way.  This  gratuitous,  wick- 
ed, humbugging  terrifier  helped  to  cause  another  defeat.  It  was 
all  nonsense,  I -knew,  but  both  Bui  and  ISTasib,  taking  fright,  beg- 
ged for  their  discharges.  In  fearful  alarm  and  anxiety,  I then 
begged  them  to  have  patience  and  see.  the  hongo  settled  first,  for 
there  was  no  necessity,  at  any  rate,  for  immediate  hurry;  I wish- 
ed them  to  go  on  ahead  with  Bombay,  as  in  four  days  they  could 
reach  Suwarora’s.  But  they  said  they  could  not  hear  of  it ; they 
would  not  go  a step  beyond  this.  All  the  chiefs  on  ahead  would 
do  the  same  as  Lumeresi ; the  whole  country  was  roused.  I had 
not  even  half  enough  cloths  to  satisfy  the  ~VV asui ; and  my  faith- 
ful followers  would  never  consent  to  be  witness  to  my  being  “ torn 
to  pieces.” 

5 th  and  6th.  The  whole  day  and  half  of  the  next  went  in  dis- 
cussions. At  last,  able  for  the  first  time  to  sit  up  a little,  I suc- 
ceeded in  prevailing  on  Bui  to  promise  he  would  go  to  Usui  as 
soon  as  the  hongo  was  settled,  provided,  as  he  said,  I took  on  my- 
self all  responsibilities  of  the  result.  This  cheered  me  so  greatly, 
I had  my  chair  placed  under  a tree  and  smoked  my  first  pipe. 
On  seeing  this,  all  my  men  struck  up  a dance,  to  the  sound  of  the 
drums,  which  they  carried  on  throughout  the  whole  night,  never 
ceasing  until  the  evening  of  the  next  day.  These  protracted  ca- 
perings  were  to  be  considered  as  their  congratulation  for  my  im- 
provement in  health ; for,  until  I got  into  my  chair,  they  always 
thought  I was  going  to  die.  They  then  told  me,  with  great  mirth 
and  good  mimicry,  of  many  absurd  scenes  which,  owing  to  the  in- 
flamed state  of  my  brain,  had  taken  place  during  my  interviews 
with  Lumeresi.  Bombay  at  this  time  very  foolishly  told  Lume- 
resi, if  he  “really  wanted  a deole,”  he  must  send  to  Grant  for 


158 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


one.  This  set  the  chief  raving.  He  knew  there  was  one  in  mj 
box,  he  said,  and,  unless  I gave  it,  the  one  with  Grant  must  be 
brought,  for  under  no  circumstances  would  he  allow  of  mj  pro- 
ceeding northward  until  that  was  given  him.  Bui  and  Hasib 
then  gave  me  the  slip,  and  slept  that  night  in  a neighboring  boma 
without  my  knowledge. 

7 th  to  9th.  As  things  had  now  gone  so  far,  I gave  Lumeresi  the 
deold  I had  stored  away  for  Rumanika,  telling  him,  at  the  same 
time  as  he  took  it,  that  he  was  robbing  Rumanika,  and  not  my- 
self ; but  I hoped,  now  I had  given  it,  he  would  beat  the  drums. 
The  scoundrel  only  laughed  as  he  wrapped  my  beautiful  silk  over 
his  great  broad  shoulders,  and  said,  “ Yes,  this  will  complete  our 
present  of  friendship  ; now  then  for  the  hongo : I must  have  ex- 
actly double  of  all  you  have  given.”  This  Sorombo  trick  I at- 
tributed to  the  instigation  of  Makaka,  for  these  savages  never  fail 
to  take  their  revenge  when  they  can.  I had  doubled  back  from 
his  country,  and  now  he  was  cutting  me  off  in  front.  I expected 
as  much  when  the  oily  blackguard  Mfumbi  came  over  from  his 
chief  to  ask  after  my  health;  so,  judging  from  my  experience 
with  Makaka,  I told  Lumeresi  at  once  to  tell  me  what  he  consid- 
ered his  due,  for  this  fearful  haggling  was  killing  me  by  inches. 
I had  no  more  deoles,  but  would  make  that  up  in  brass  wire.  He 
then  fixed  the  hongo  at  fifteen  masango  or  brass-wire  bracelets, 
sixteen  cloths  of  sorts,  and  a hundred  necklaces  of  sami-sami  or 
red  coral  beads,  which  was  to  pay  for  Grant  as  well  as  myself.  I 
paid  it  down  on  the  spot;  the  drums  beat  the  “ satisfaction,”  and 
I ordered  the  march  with  the  greatest  relief  of  mind  possible. 

But  Bui  and  Hasib  were  not  to  be  found ; they  had  bolted. 
The  shock  nearly  killed  me.-  I had  walked  all  the  way  to  Kaze 
and  back  again  for  these  men,  to  show  mine  a good  example — 
had  given  them  pay  and  treble  rations,  the  same  as  Bombay  and 
Baraka — and  yet  they  chose  to  desert.  I knew  not  what  to  do, 
for  it  appeared  to  me  that,  do  what  I would,  we  would  never  suc- 
ceed ; and  in  my  weakness  of  body  and  mind  I actually  cried  like 
a child  over  the  whole  affair.  I would  rather  have  died  than 
have  failed  in  my  journey,  and  yet  failure  seemed  at  this  juncture 
inevitable. 

8 th.  As  I had  no  interpreters,  and  could  not  go  forward  nry- 
self,  I made  up  my  mind  at  once  to  send  back  all  my  men,  with 
Bombay,  to  Grant;  after  joining  whom,  Bombay  would  go  back 
to  Kaze  again  for  other  interpreters,  and  on  his  return  would  pick 


Aug.] 


UZINZA. 


159 


up  Grant,  and  bring  him  on  here.  This  sudden  decision  set  all 
my  men  up  in  a flame ; they  swore  it  was  no  use  my  trying  to  go 
on  to  Karague ; they  would  not  go  with  me ; they  did  not  come 
here  to  be  killed.  If  I chose  to  lose  my  life,  it  was  no  business 
of  theirs,  but  they  would  not  be  witness  to  it.  They  all  wanted 
their  discharge  at  once ; they  would  not  run  away,  but  must  have 
a letter  of  satisfaction,  and  then  they  would  go  back  to  their 
homes  at  Zanzibar.  But  when  they  found  they  lost  all  their  ar- 
guments and  could  not  move  me,  they  said  they  would  go  back 
for  Grant,  but  when  they  had  done  that  duty,  then  they  would 
take  their  leave. 

1(M  to  15 th.  This  business  being  at  last  settled,  I wrote  to 
Grant  on  the  subject,  and  sent  all  the  men  off  who  were  not  sick. 
Thinking  then  how  I could  best  cure  the  disease  that  was  keep- 
ing me  down,  as  I found  the  blister  of  no  use,  I tried  to  stick  a 
packing-needle,  used  as  a seton,  into  my  side ; but,  finding  it  was 
not  sharp  enough,  in  such  weak  hands  as  mine,  to  go  through  my 
skin,  I got  Baraka  to  try  ; and  he  failing  too, 'I  then  made  him  fire 
me,  for  the  coughing  was  so  incessant  I could  get  no  sleep  at 
night.  I had  now  nothing  whatever  to  think  of  but  making- 
dodges  for  lying  easy,  and  for  relieving  my  pains,  or  else  for  cook- 
ing strong  broths  to  give  me  strength,  for  my  legs  were  reduced 
to  the  appearance  of  pipe-sticks,  until  the  15th,  when  Baraka,  in 
the  same  doleful  manner  as  in  Sorombo,  came  to  me  and  said  he 
had  something  to  communicate,  which  was  so  terrible,  if  I heard 
it  I should  give  up  the  march.  Lhmeresi  was  his  authority,  but 
he  would  not  tell  it  until  Grant  arrived.  I said  to  him,  “Let  us 
wait  till  Grant  arrives ; we  shall  then  have  some  one  with  us  who 
won’t  shrink  from  whispers,”  meaning  Bombay ; and  so  I let  the 
matter  drop  for  the  time  being.  But  when  Grant  came  we  had  it 
out  of  him,  and  found  this  terrible  mystery  all  hung  on  Lumere- 
si’s  prognostications  that  we  never  should  get  through  Usui  with 
so  little  cloth. 

1 6th  to  1 9th.  At  night  I had  such  a terrible  air-catching  fit,  and 
made  such  a noise  while  trying  to  fill  my  lungs,  that  it  alarmed 
all  the  camp,  so  much  so  that  my  men  rushed  into  my  tent  to  see 
if  I was  dying.  Lumeresi,  in  the  morning,  then  went  on  a visit- 
ing excursion  into  the  district,  but  no  sooner  left  than  the  chief 
of  Isamiro,  whose  place  lies  close  to  the  N’yanza,  came  here  to 
visit  him  (17th);  but,  after  waiting  a day  to  make  friends  with 
me,  he  departed  (18th),  as  I heard  afterward,  to  tell  his  great  Mhu- 


160 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


ma  chief,  Rohinda,  the  ruler  of  Ukhanga,  to  which  district  this 
state  of  Bogue  belongs,  what  sort  of  presents  I had  given  to  Lu- 
meresi. He  was,  in  fact,  a spy  whom  Rohinda  had  sent  to  ascer- 
tain what  exactions  had  been  made  from  me,  as  he,  being  the 
great  chief,  was  entitled  to  the  most  of  them  himself.  On  Lumd- 
resi’s  return,  all  the  men  of  the  village,  as  well  as  mine,  set  up  a 
dance,  beating  the  drums  all  day  and  all  night. 

20 111  to  21st.  Next  night  they  had  to  beat  their  drums  for  a 
very  different  purpose,  as  the  Watiita,  after  lifting  all  of  Makaka’s 
cattle  in  Sorombo,  came  hovering  about,  and  declared  they  would 
never  cease  fighting  until  they  had  lifted  all  those  that  Lumeresi 
harbored  round  his  boma ; for  it  so  happened  that  Lumeresi  al- 
lowed a large  party  of  Watosi,  alias  Wahuma,  to  keep  their  cattle 
in  large  stalls  all  round  his  boma,  and  these  the  Watuta  had  now 
set  their  hearts  upon.  After  a little  reflection,  however,  they 
thought  better  of  it,  as  they  were  afraid  to  come  in  at  once  on  ac- 
count of  my  guns. 

Most  gladdening  news  this  day  came  in  to  cheer  me.  A large 
mixed  caravan  of  Arabs  and  coast-men,  arriving  from  Karagud, 
announced  that  both  Rumanika  and  Suwarora  were  anxiously 
looking  out  for  us,  wondering  why  we  did  not  come.  So  great, 
indeed,  was  Suwarora’s  desire  to  see  us,  that  he  had  sent  four  men 
to  invite  us,  and  they  would  have  been  here  now,  only  that  one 
of  them  fell  sick  on  the  way,  and  the  rest  had  to  stop  for  him.  I 
can  not  say  what  pleasure  this  gave  me ; my  fortune,  I thought, 
was  made ; and  so  I told  Baraka,  who,  instead  of  rejoicing  with 
me,  only  shook  his  head  at  it,  and  pretended  he  did  not  believe 
the  news  to  be  true.  Without  loss  of  time  I wrote  off  to  Grant, 
and  got  these  men  to  carry  the  letter. 

Next  day  (22d)  the  Wasui  from  Suwarora  arrived.  They  were 
a very  gentle,  nice-dispositioned-looking  set  of  men — small,  but 
well  knit  together.  They  advanced  to  my  tent  with  much  seem- 
ing grace ; then  knelt  at  my  feet,  and  began  clapping  their  hands 
together,  saying,  at  the  same  time,  “ My  great  chief,  my  great 
chief,  I hope  you  are  well ; for  Suwarora,  having  heard  of  your 
detention  here,  has  sent  us  over  to  assure  you  that  all  those  re- 
ports that  have  been  circulated  regarding  his  ill  treatment  of  car- 
avans are  without  foundation  ; he  is  sorry  for  what  has  happened 
to  deter  your  march,  and  hopes  you  will  at  once  come  to  visit 
him.”  I then  told  them  all  that  had  happened — how  Grant  and 
myself  were  situated — and  begged  them  to  assist  me  by  going  off 


Aug.] 


UZINZA. 


161 


to  Grant’s  camp  to  inspire  all  the  men  there  with  confidence,  and 
bring  my  rear  property  to  me ; saying,  as  they  agreed  to  do  so, 
“ Here  are  some  cloths  and  some  beads  for  your  expenses,  and 
when  you  return  I will  give  you  more.”  Baraka  at  once,  seeing 
this,  told  me  they  were  not  trustworthy,  for  at  Mihambo  an  old 
man  had  come  there  and  tried  to  inveigle  him  in  the  same  man- 
ner, but  he  kicked  him  out  of  the  camp,  because  he  knew  he  was 
a touter,  who  wished  merely  to  allure  him  with  sweet  words  to 
fleece  him  afterward.  I then  wrote  to  Grant  another  letter  to  be 
delivered  by  these  men. 

Lumbresi  no  sooner  heard  of  the  presents  I had  given  them 
than  he  flew  into  a passion,  called  them  impostors,  abused  them 
for  not  speaking  to  him  before  they  came  to  me,  and  said  he 
would  not  allow  them  to  go.  High  words  then  ensued.  I said 
the  business  was  mine,  and  not  his ; he  had  no  right  to  interfere, 
and  they  should  go.  Still  Lumeresi  was  obstinate,  and  determ- 
ined they  should  not,  for  I was  his  guest ; he  would  not  allow  any 
one  to  defraud  me.  It  was  a great  insult  to  himself,  if  true,  that 
Suwarora  should  attempt  to  snatch  me  out  of  his  house ; and  he 
could  not  bear  to  see  me  take  these  strangers  by  the  hand,  when, 
as  we  have  seen,  it  took  him  so  long  to  entice  me  to  his  den,  and 
he  could  not  prevail  over  me  until  he  actually  sent  his  copper 
hatchet. 

When  this  breeze  blew  over  by  Lumeresi’s  walking  away,  I 
told  the  Wasui  not  to  mind  him,  but  to  do  just  as  I bid  them. 
They  said  they  had  their  orders  to  bring  me,  and  if  Lumerbsi 
would  not  allow  them  to  go  for  Grant,  they  would  stop  where 
they  were,  for  they  knew  that  if  Suwarora  found  them  delaying 
long,  he  would  send  more  men  to  look  after  them.  There  was 
no  peace  yet,  however;  for  Lumeresi,  finding  them  quietly  set- 
tled down  eating  with  my  men,  ordered  them  out  of  his  district, 
threatening  force  if  they  did  not  comply  at  once.  I tried  my 
best  for  them,  but  the  Wasui,  fearing  to  stop  any  longer,  said  they 
would  take  leave  to  see  Suwarora,  and  in  eight  days  more  they 
would  come  back  again,  bringing  something  with  them,  the  sight 
of  which  would  make  Lumeresi  quake.  Farther  words  were  now 
useless,  so  I gave  them  more  cloth  to  keep  them  up  to  the  mark, 
and  sent  them  off.  Baraka,  who  seemed  to  think  this  generosity 
a bit  of  insanity,  grumbled  that  if  I had  cloths  to  throw  away  it 
would  have  been  better  had  I disposed  of  them  to  my  own  men. 

Next  dav  (26th),  as  I was  still  unwell,  I sent  four  men  to  Grant 

L 


162 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


with  inquiries  how  he  was  getting  on,  and  a request  for  medi- 
cines. The  messengers  took  four  days  to  bring  back  the  infor- 
mation that  Bombay  had  not  returned  from  Kaze,  but  that  Grant, 
having  got  assistance,  hoped  to  break  ground  about  the  5th  of 
next  month.  They  brought  me,  at  the  same  time,  information 
that  the  Watuta  had  invested  Euhe’s,  after  clearing  off  all  the 
cattle  in  the  surrounding  villages,  and  had  proclaimed  their  in- 
tention of  serving  out  Lumerdsi  next.  In  consequence  of  this, 
Lumeresi  daily  assembled  his  graybeards  and  had  councils  of  war 
in  his  drum-house;  but,  though  his  subjects  sent  to  him  constant- 
ly for  troops,  he  would  not  assist  them. 

Another  caravan  then  arrived  (31st)  from  Karague,  in  which 
I found  an  old  friend,  of  half  Arab  breed,  called  Saim,  wTho,  while 
I was  residing  with  Sheikh  Snay  at  Kazd  on  my  former  expedi- 
tion, taught  me  the  way  to  make  plantain  wine.  He,  like  the 
rest  of  the  porters  in  the  caravan,  wore  a shirt  of  fig-tree  bark 
called  mbugu.  As  I shall  have  frequently  to  use  this  word  in 
the  course  of  the  Journal,  I may  here  give  an  explanation  of  its 
meaning.  The  porter  here  mentioned  told  me  that  the  people 
about  the  equator  all  wore  this  kind  of  covering,  and  made  it  up 
of  numerous  pieces  of  bark  sewn  together,  which  they  stripped 
from  the  trees  after  cutting  once  round  the  trunk  above  and  be- 
low, and  then  once  more  down  the  tree  from  the  upper  to  the 
lower  circular  cutting.  This  operation  did  not  kill  the  trees,  be- 
cause, if  they  covered  the  wound,  while  it  was  fresh,  well  over 
with  plantain-leaves,  shoots  grew  down  from  above,  and  a new 
bark  came  all  over  it.  The  way  they  softened  the  bark,  to  make 
it  like  cloth,  was  by  immersion  in  water,  and  a good  strong  appli- 
cation of  a mill-headed  mallet,  which  ribbed  it  like  corduroy." 
Saim  told  me  he  had  lived  ten  years  in  Uganda,  had  crossed  the 
Nile,  and  had  traded  eastward  as  far  as  the  Masai  country.  He 
thought  the  N’yanza  was  the  source  of  the  Euvuma  River;  as 
the  river  which  drained  the  N’yanza,  after  passing  between  Ugan- 
da and  Usoga,  went  through  Unyoro,  and  then  all  round  the 
Tanganyika  Lake  into  the  Indian  Ocean,  south  of  Zanzibar. 

* If  one  asked  the  name  of  a tree,  and  it  happened  to  be  the  kind  from  which 
this  cloth  was  made,  the  answer  would  be  “mbugu.”  If,  again,  the  question  was 
as  to  the  bark,  the  same  answer ; and  the  same  if  one  saw  the  shirt  and  asked  what 
it  was.  Hence  I could  not  determine  whether  the  word  had  been  originally  the 
name  of  the  tree,  of  its  bark,  or  of  the  article  made  from  the  bark,  though  I am  in- 
clined to  think  it  is  the  bark,  as  there  are  many  varieties  of  these  trees,  which,  be- 
sides being  called  mbflgu,  had  their  own  particular  names. 


Sept.] 


UZINZA. 


163 


Kiganda,  he  also  said,  he  knew  as  well  as  his  own  tongue ; and 
as  I wanted  an  interpreter,  he  would  gladly  take  service  with  me. 
This  was  just  what  I wanted — a heaven-born  stroke  of  luck.  I 
seized  at  his  offer  with  avidity,  gave  him  a new  suit  of  clothes, 
which  made  him  look  quite  a gentleman,  and  arranged  to  send 
him  next  day  with  a letter  to  Grant. 

Is?  and  2 d.  A great  hubbub  and  confusion  now  seized  all  the 
place,  for  the  Watuta  were  out,  and  had  killed  a woman  of  the 
place  who  had  formerly  been  seized  by  them  in  war,  but  had 
since  escaped  and  resided  here.  To  avenge  this,  Lumeresi  head- 
ed his  host,  and  was  accompanied  by  my  men;  but  they  succeeded 
in  nothing  save  in  frightening  off  their  enemies,  and  regaining- 
possession  of  the  body  of  the  dead  woman.  Then  another  hubbub 
arose,  for  it  was  discovered  that  three  Wahuma  women  were 
missing  (2d) ; and,  as  they  did  not  turn  up  again,  Lumeresi  sus- 
pected the  men  of  the  caravan,  which  left  with  Saim,  must  have 
taken  them  off  as  slaves.  He  sent  for  the  chief  of  the  caravan, 
and  had  him  brought  back  to  account  for  this  business.  Of  course 
the  man  swore  he  knew  nothing  about  the  matter,  while  Lumeresi 
swore  he  should  stop  there  a prisoner  until  the  women  were  freed, 

as  it  was  not  the  first  time  his  women  had  been  stolen  in  this 

£ 

manner.  About  the  same  time  a man  of  this  place,  who  had  been 
to  Sorombo  to  purchase  cows,  came  in  with  a herd,  and  was  at 
once  seized  by  Lumdresi ; for,  during  his  absence,  one  of  Lume- 
resi’s  daughters  had  been  discovered  to  be  with  child,  and  she, 
on  being  asked  who  was  the  cause  of  it,  pointed  out  that  man. 
To  compensate  for  damage  done  to  himself,  as  his  daughter  by 
this  means  had  become  reduced  to  half  her  market  value,  Lumd- 
resi  seized  all  the  cattle  this  man  had  brought  with  him. 

3c?  to  lOlh.  When  two  days  had  elapsed,  one  of  the  three  miss- 
ing Wahuma  women  was  discovered  in  a village  close  by.  As 
she  said  she  had  absconded  because  her  husband  had  ill  treated 
her,  she  was  flogged,  to  teach  her  better  conduct.  It  was  report- 
ed they  had  been  seen  in  M’yonga’s  establishment ; and  I was  at 
the  same  time  informed  that  the  husbands  who  were  out  in  search 
of  them  would  return,  as  M’yonga  was  likely  to  demand  a price 
for  them  if  they  were  claimed,  in  virtue  of  their  being  his  right- 
ful property  under  the  acknowledged  law  of  buni,  or  fmdings- 
keepings. 

For  the  next  four  days  nothing  but  wars  and  rumors  of  wars 
could  be  heard.  The  Watuta  were  out  in  all  directions  plunder- 


164 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


ing  cattle  and  burning  villages,  and  the  Wahuma  of  tliis  place 
had  taken  such  fright,  they  made  a stealthy  march  with  all  their 
herds  to  a neighboring  chief,  to  whom  it  happened  that  one  of 
Lumeresi’s  graybeards  was  on  a visit.  They  thus  caught  a Tar- 
tar; for  the  gray  beard  no  sooner  saw  them  than  he  went  and 
flogged  them  all  back  again,  rebuking  them  on  the  way  for  their 
ingratitude  to  their  chief,  who  had  taken  them  in  when  they 
sought  his  shelter,  and  was  now  deserted  by  them  on  the  first 
alarm  of  war. 

10th.  Wishing  now  to  gain  farther  intelligence  of  Grant,  I or- 
dered some  of  my  men  to  carry  a letter  to  him ; but  they  all 
feared  the  Watuta  meeting  them  on  the  way,  and  would  not. 
Just  then  a report  came  in  that  one  of  Lumer&i’s  sons,  who  had 
gone  near  the  capital  of  Ukhanga  to  purchase  cows,  was  seized 
by  Rotunda  in  consequence  of  the  Isamiro  chief  telling  him  that 
Lumeresi  had  taken  untold  wealth  from  me,  and  he  was  to  be  de- 
tained there  a prisoner  until  Lumeresi  either  disgorged,  or  sent 
me  on  to  be  fleeced  again.  Lumeresi,  of  course,  was  greatly  per- 
plexed at  this,  and  sought  my  advice,  but  could  get  nothing  out 
of  me,  for  I laughed  in  my  sleeve,  and  told  him  such  was  the  con- 
sequence of  his  having  been  too  greedy. 

1 1th  to  15th.  Masudi  with  his  caravan  arrived  from  Mchimbka 
— Ungurue,  “the  Pig,”  who  had  led  me  astray,  was,  by  the  way, 
his  kirangozi  or  caravan  leader.  Masudi  told  us  he  had  suffered 
most  severely  from  losses  by  his  men  running  away,  one  after  the 
other,  as  soon  as  they  received  their  pay.  He  thought  Grant 
would  soon  join  me,  as,  the  harvest  being  all  in,  the  men  about 
Rungua  would  naturally  be  anxious  for  service.  He  had  had 
fearful  work  with  M’yonga,  having  paid  him  a gun,  some  gun- 
powder, and  a great  quantity  of  cloth ; and  he  had  to  give  the 
same  to  Rube,  with  the  addition  of  twenty  brass  wires,  one  load 
of  mzizima,  and  one  load  of  red  coral  beads.  This  was  startling, 
and  induced  me  to  send  all  the  men  I could  prudently  spare  off 
to  Grant  at  once,  cautioning  him  to  avoid  Ruhe’s,  as  Lumbresi 
had  promised  me  he  would  not  allow  one  other  thing  to  be  taken 
from  me.  Lumeresi  by  this  time  was  improving,  from  lessons  on 
the  policy  of  moderation  which  I had  been  teaching  him;  for 
when  he  tried  to  squeeze  as  much  more  out  of  Masudi  as  Riihe 
had  taken,  he  gave  way,  and  let  him  off  cheaply  at  my  interces- 
sion. He  had  seen  enough  to  be  persuaded  that  this  unlimited 
taxation  or  plunder  system  would  turn  out  a losing  game,  such 


Sept.] 


UZINZA. 


165 


as  Unyanyembe  and  Ugogo  were  at  that  time  suffering  from. 
Moreover,  he  was  rather  put  to  shame  by  my  saying,  “ Pray,  who 
now  is  biggest,  Kuhe  or  yourself?  for  any  one  entering  this  coun- 
try would  suspect  that  he  was,  as  he  levies  the  first  tax,  and  gives 
people  to  understand  that,  by  their  paying  it,  the  whole  district 
will  be  free  to  them ; such,  at  any  rate,  he  told  me,  and  so  it  ap- 
pears he  told  Masudi.  If  you  are  the  sultan,  and  will  take  my 
advice,  I would  strongly  recommend  your  teaching  Kuhe  a lesson 
by  taking  from  him  what  the  Arabs  paid,  and  giving  it  back  to 
Masiidi.” 

At  midnight  (16th)  I was  startled  in  my  sleep  by  the  hurried 
tramp  of  several  men,  who  rushed  in  to  say  they  were  Grant’s 
porters — Bogue  men  who  had  deserted  him.  Grant,  they  said, 
in  incoherent,  short,  rapid,  and  excited  sentences,  was  left  by  them 
standing  under  a tree,  with  nothing  but  his  gun  in  his  hand. 
All  the  Wanguana  had  been  either  killed  or  driven  away  by 
M’yonga’s  men,  who  all  turned  out  and  fell  upon  the  caravan, 
shooting,  spearing,  and  plundering,  until  nothing  was  left.  The 
porters  then,  seeing  Grant  all  alone,  unable  to  help  him,  bolted 
off  to  inform  me  and  Lumeresi,  as  the  best  thing  they  could  do. 
Though  disbelieving,  the  story  in  all  its  minutiae,  I felt  that  some- 
thing serious  must  have  happened;  so,  without  a moment’s  delay, 
I sent  off  the  last  of  my  men  strong  enough  to  walk  to  succor 
Grant,  carrying  with  them  a bag  of  beads.  Baraka  then  stepped 
outside  my  tent,  and  said  in  a loud  voice,  purposely  for  my  edifica- 
tion, “There,  now,  what  is  the  use  of  thinking  any  more  about  go- 
ing to  Karague?  I said  all  along  it  was  impossible upon  hearing 
which  I had  him  up  before  all  the  remaining  men,  and  gave  him 
a lecture,  saying,  happen  what  would,  I must  die  or  go  on  with 
the  journey,  for  shame  would  not  allow  me  to  give  way  as  Baraka 
was  doing.  Baraka  replied  he  was  not  afraid ; he  only  meant  to 
imply  that  men  could  not  act  against  impossibilities.  “Impossi- 
bilities!” I said;  “what  is  impossible?  Could  I not  go  on  as  a 
servant  with  the  first  caravan,  or  buy  up  a whole  caravan  if  I 
liked  ? What  is  impossible  ? For  God’s  sake  don’t  try  any  more 
to  frighten  my  men,  for  you  have  nearly  killed  me  already  in  do- 
ing so.” 

Next  day  (17th)  I received  a letter  from  Grant,  narrating  the 
whole  of  his  catastrophes : 


166 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


“In  the  Jungles,  near  M’yonga’s,  16th  Sept.,  1861. 

“My  dear  Speke, — The  caravan  was  attacked,  plundered,  and 
the  men  driven  to  the  winds,  while  marching  this  morning  into 
M’yonga’s  country. 

“ Awaking  at  cock-crow,  I roused  the  camp,  all  anxious  to  re- 
join you ; and  while  the  loads  were  being  packed,  my  attention 
was  drawn  to  an  angry  discussion  between  the  head  men  and 
seven  or  eight  armed  fellows  sent  by  Sultan  M’yonga,  to  insist 
on  my  putting  up  for  the  day  in  his  village.  They  were  sum- 
marily told  that  as  you  had  already  made  him  a present,  he  need 
not  expect  a visit  from  me.  Adhering,  I doubt  not,  to  their 
master’s  instructions,  they  officiously  constituted  themselves  our 
guides  till  we  chose  to  strike  off  their  path,  when,  quickly  heading 
our  party,  they  stopped  the  way,  planted  their  spears,  and  dared 
our  advance! 

“ This  menace  made  us  firmer  in  our  determination,  and  we 
swept  past  the  spears.  After  we  had  marched  unmolested  for 
some  seven  miles,  a loud  yelping  from  the  woods  excited  our  at- 
tention, and  a sudden  rush  was  made  upon  us  by,  say,  two  hund- 
red men,  who  came  down  seemingly  in  great  glee.  In  an  instant, 
at  the  caravan’s  centre,  they  fastened  upon  the  poor  porters.  The 
struggle  was  short;  and  with  the  threat  of  an  arrow  or  spear  at 
their  breasts,  men  were  robbed  of  their  cloths  and  ornaments, 
loads  were  yielded  and  run  away  with  before  resistance  could  be 
organized ; only  three  men  of  a hundred  stood  by  me ; the  others, 
whose  only  thought  was  their  lives,  fled  into  the  woods,  where  I 
went  shouting  for  them.  One  man,  little  Itakan — rip  as  he  is — 
stood  with  cocked  gun,  defending  his  load  against  five  savages 
with  uplifted  spears.  No  one  else  could  be  seen.  Two  or  three 
were  reported  killed;  some  were  wounded.  Beads,  boxes,  cloths, 
etc.,  lay  strewed  about  the  woods.  In  fact,  I felt  wrecked.  My 
attempt  to  go  and  demand  redress  from  the  sultan  was  resisted, 
and,  in  utter  despair,  I seated  myself  among  a mass  of  rascals  jeer- 
ing round  me,  and  insolent  after  the  success  of  the  day.  Several 
were  dressed  in  the  very  cloths,  etc.,  they  had  stolen  from  my 
men. 

“In  the  afternoon,  about  fifteen  men  and  loads  were  brought 
me,  with  a message  from  the  sultan  that  the  attack  had  been  a 
mistake  of  his  subjects — that  one  man  had  had  a hand  cut  off  for 
it,  and  that  all  the  property  would  be  restored! 

“ Yours  sincerely,  J.  W.  Grant.” 


SUPT.] 


UZINZA. 


167 


Now,  judging  from  the  message  sent  to  Grant  by  M’yonga,  it 
appeared  to  me  that  his  men  had  mistaken  their  chief’s  orders, 
and  had  gone  one  step  beyond  his  intentions.  It  was  obvious 
that  the  chief  merely  intended  to  prevent  Grant  from  passing 
through  or  evading  his  district  without  paying  a hongo,  else  he 
would  not  have  sent  his  men  to  invite  him  to  his  palace,  doubtless 
with  instructions,  if  necessary,  to  use  force.  This  appears  the 
more  evident  from  the  fact  of  his  subsequent  contrition,  and  find- 
ing it  necessary  to  send  excuses  when  the  property  was  in  his 
hands ; for  these  chiefs,  grasping  as  they  are,  know  they  must 
conform  to  some  kind  of  system,  to  save  themselves  from  a gen- 
eral war,  or  the  avoidance  of  their  territory  by  all  travelers  in 
future.  To  assist  Grant,  I begged  Lumeresi  to  send  him  some 
aid  in  men  at  once ; but  he  refused,  on  the  plea  that  M’yonga  was 
at  war  with  him,  and  would  kill  them  if  they  went.  This  was  all 
the  more  provoking,  as  Grant,  in  a letter  next  evening,  told  me 
he  could  not  get  all  his  men  together  again,  and  wished  to  know 
what  should  be  done.  lie  had  recovered  all  the  property  except 
six  loads  of  beads,  eighty  yards  of  American  sheeting,  and  many 
minor  articles,  besides  what  had  been  rifled  more  or  less  from 
every  load.  In  the  same  letter  he  asked  me  to  deliver  up  a 
Mkuma  woman  to  a man  who  came  with  the  bearers  of  his  mis- 
sive, as  she  had  made  love  to  Saim  at  Ukulima’s,  and  had  bolted 
with  my  men  to  escape  from  her  husband. 

On  inquiring  into  this  matter,  she  told  me  her  face  had  been 
her  misfortune,  for  the  man  who  now  claimed  her  stole  her  from 
her  parents  at  Ujiji,  and  forcibly  made  her  his  wife,  but  ever 
since  had  ill  treated  her,  often  thrashing  her,  and  never  giving 
her  proper  food  or  clothing.  It  was  on  this  account  she  fell  in 
love  with  Saim';  for  he,  taking  compassion  on  her  doleful  stories, 
had  promised  to  keep  her  as  long  as  he  traveled  with  me,  and  in 
the  end  to  send  her  back  to  her  parents  at  Ujiji.  She  was  a beau- 
tiful woman,  with  gazelle  eyes,  oval  face,  high  thin  nose,  and  fine 
lips,  and  would  have  made  a good  match  for  Saim,  who  had  a 
good  deal  of  Arab  blood  in  him,  and  was  therefore,  in  my  opin- 
ion, much  of  the  same  mixed  Shem-Hamitic  breed.  But,  as  I did 
not  want  more  women  in  my  camp,  I gave  her  some  beads,  and 
sent  her  off  with  the  messenger  who  claimed  her,  much  against 
my  own  feelings.  I now  proposed  to  Grant  that,  as  Lumeresi’s 
territories  extended  to  within  eight  miles  of  M’yonga’s,  he  should 
try  to  move  over  the  Msalala  border  by  relaj^s,  when  I would  send 


168 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


some  Bogue  men  to  meet  him ; for,  though  Lumdrbsi  would  not 
risk  sending  his  men  into  the  clutches  of  M’jonga,  he  was  most 
anxious  to  have  another  white  visitor. 

2 Oth  and  21st.  I again  urged  Lumer^si  to  help  on  Grant,  say- 
ing it  was  incumbent  on  him  to  call  M’yonga  to  account  for  mal- 
treating Grant’s  porters,  who  were  his  own  subjects,  else  the  road 
would  be  shut  up — he  would  lose  all  the  hongos  he  laid  on  cara- 
vans— and  he  would  not  be  able  to  send  his  own  ivory  down  to 
the  coast.  This  appeal  had  its  effect : he  called  on  his  men  to 
volunteer,  and  twelve  porters  came  forward,  who  no  sooner  left 
than  in  came  another  letter  from  Grant,  informing  me  that  he  had 
collected  almost  -enough  men  to  march  with,  and  that  M’yonga 
had  returned  one  of  the  six  missing  loads,  and  promised  to  right 
him  in  every  thing. 

ISText  day,  however,  I had  from  Grant  two  very  opposite  ac- 
counts— one,  in  the  morning,  full  of  exultation,  in  which  he  said 
he  hoped  to  reach  Ruhe’s  this  very  day,  as  his  complement  of 
porters  was  then  completed ; while  by  the  other,  which  came  in 
the  evening,  I was  shocked  to  hear  that  M’yonga,  after  returning 
all  the  loads,  much  reduced  by  rifling,  had  demanded  as  a hongo 
two  guns,  two  boxes  of  ammunition,  forty  brass  wires,  and  160 
yards  of  American  sheeting,  in  default  of  which  he,  Grant,  must 
lend  M’yonga  ten  Wanguana  to  build  a boma  on  the  west  of  his 
district,  to  enable  him  to  fight  some  Wasonga  who  were  invading 
his  territory,  otherwise  he  would  not  allow  Grant  to  move  from 
his  palace.  Grant  knew  not  what  to  do.  He  dared  not  part  with 
the  guns,  because  he  knew  it  was  against  my  principle,  and  there- 
fore deferred  the  answer  until  he  heard  from  me,  although  all  his 
already  collected  porters  were  getting  fidgety,  and  two  had  bolt- 
ed. In  this  fearful  fix,  I sent  Baraka  off  with  strict  orders  to 
bring  Grant  away  at  any  price,  except  the  threatened  sacrifice  of 
men,  guns,  and  ammunition,  which  I would  not  listen  to,  as  one 
more  day’s  delay  might  end  in  farther  exactions ; at  the  same 
time,  I cautioned  him  to  save  my  property  as  far  as  he  could,  for 
it  was  to  him  that  M’yonga  had  formerly  said  that  what  I paid 
him  should  do  for  all. 

Some  of  M’yonga’s  men  who  had  plundered  Grant  now  “ caught 
a Tartar.”  After  rifling  his  loads  of  a kilyndo,  or  bark  box  of 
beads,  they,  it  appeared,  received  orders  from  M’yonga  to  sell  a 
lot  of  female  slaves,  among  whom  were  the  two  Wahuma  women 
who  had  absconded  from  this.  The  men  in  charge,  not  knowing 


Sept.] 


UZINZA. 


169 


their  history,  brought  them  for  sale  into  this  district,  where  they 
were  instantly  recognized  by  some  of  Lumeresi’s  men,  and  brought 
in  to  him.  The  case  was  not  examined  at  once,  Lumeresi  hap- 
pening to  be  absent;  so,  to  make  good  their  time,  the  men  in 
charge  brought  their  beads  to  me  to  be  exchanged  for  something 
else,  not  knowing  that  both  camps  were  mine,  and  that  they  held 
my  beads  and  not  Grant’s.  Of  course  I took  them  from  them, 
but  did  not  give  them  a flogging,  as  I knew  if  I did  so  they 
would  at  once  retaliate  upon  Grant.  The  poor  Wahiima  women, 
as  soon  as  Lumeresi  arrived,  were  put  to  death  by  their  hus- 
bands, because,  by  becoming  slaves,  they  had  broken  the  laws  of 
their  race. 

22 d to  24 th.  At  last  I began  to  recover.  All  this  exciting 
news,  with  the  prospect  of  soon  seeing  Grant,  did  me  a world  of 
good ; so  much  so,  that  I began  shooting  small  birds  for  speci- 
mens— watching  the  blacksmiths  as  they  made  tools,  spears,  and 


Blacksmith’s  Shop. 


bracelets — and  doctoring  some  of  the  Wahiima  women  who  came 
to  be  treated  for  ophthalmia,  in  return  for  which  they  gave  me 
milk.  The  milk,  however,  I could  not  boil  excepting  in  secrecy, 
else  they  would  have  stopped  their  donations  on  the  plea  that 
this  process  would  be  an  incantation  or  bewitchment,  from  which 
their  cattle  would  fall  sick  and  dry  up.  I now  succeeded  iri  get- 
ting Lumeresi  to  send  his  Wanyapara  to  go  and  threaten  M’yon- 
ga  that  if  he  did  not  release  Grant  at  once,  we  would  combine  to 
force  him  to  do  so.  They,  however,  left  too  late,  for  the  hongo 
had  been  settled,  as  I was  informed  by  a letter  from  Grant  next 
day,  brought  to  me  by  Bombay,  who  had  just  returned  from  Kaze 


1T0 


TI1E  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


after  six  weeks’  absence.  lie  brought  with  him  old  Nasib  and 
another  man,  and  told  me  both  Bui  and  Nasib  had  hidden  them- 
selves in  a boma  close  to  Lumerbsi’s  the  day  when  my  hongo  was 
settled  ; but  they  bolted  the  instant  the  drums  beat,  and  my  men 
tired  guns  to  celebrate  the  event,  supposing  that  the  noise  was  oc- 
casioned by  our  fighting  with  Lumerdsi.  These  cowards  then 
made  straight  for  Kaze,  when  Fundi  Sangoro  gave  Nasib  a flog- 
ging for  deserting  me,  and  made  him  so  ashamed  of  his  conduct 
that  he  said  he  would  never  do  it  again.  Bui  also  was  flogged, 
but,  admitting  himself  to  be  a coward,  was  sent  to  the  “right- 
about.” With  him  Bombay  also  brought  three  new  deoles,  for 
which  I had  to  pay  $5160,  and  news  that  the  war  with  Manila  Sera 
was  not  then  over.  He  had  effected  his  escape  in  the  usual  man- 
ner, and  was  leading  the  Arabs  another  long  march  after  him. 

Expecting  to  meet  Grant  this  morning  (25th),  I strolled  as  far 
as  my  strength  and  wind  would  allow  me  toward  Ruhe’s  ; but  I 
was  sold,  for  Rube  had  detained  him  for  a hongo.  Lumerbsi  also 
having  heard  of  it,  tried  to  interpose,  according  to  a plan  arranged 
between  us  in  case  of  such  a thing  happening,  by  sending  his  offi- 
cers to  Ruhd,  with  an  order  not  to  check  my  “brother’s”  march, 
as  I had  settled  accounts  for  all.  Later  in  the  day,  however,  I 
heard  from  Grant  that  Ruhe  would  not  let  him  go  until  he  paid 
sixteen  pretty  cloths,  six  wires,  one  gun,  one  box  of  ammunition, 
and  one  load  of  mzizima  beads,  coolly  saying  I had  only  given 
him  a trifle,  under  the  condition  that,  when  the  big  caravan  ar- 
rived, Grant  would  make  good  the  rest.  I immediately  read  this 
letter  to  Lumeresi,  and  asked  him  how  I should  answer  it,  as 
Grant  refused  to  pay  any  thing  until  I gave  the  order. 

To  which  Lumdresi  replied,  Ruhe,  “ my  child,”  could  not  dare 
to  interfere  with  Grant  after  his  officers  arrived,  and  advised  me 
to  wait  until  the  evening.  At  all  events,  if  there  were  any  far- 
ther impediments,  he  himself  would  go  over  there  with  a force 
and  release  Grant.  In  the  evening  another  messenger  arrived 
from  Grant,  giving  a list  of  his  losses  and  expenses  at  M’yonga’s. 
They  amounted  to  an  equivalent  of  eight  loads,  and  were  as  fol- 
lows : 100  yards  cloth,  and  4600  necklaces  of  beads  (these  had 
been  set  aside  as  the  wages  paid  to  the  porters,  but,  being  in  my 
custody,  I had  to  make  them  good) ; 800  necklaces  of  beads 
stolen  from  the  loads ; one  brass  wdre  stolen  ; one  sword-bayonet 
stolen;  Grant’s  looking-glass  stolen;  one  saw  stolen  ; one  box  of 
ammunition  stolen.  Then  paid  in  hongo  160  yards  cloth;  150 


Sept.] 


UZINZA. 


171 


necklaces;  one  scarlet  blanket,  double ; one  case  of  ammunition; 
ten  brass  wires.  Lastly,  there  was  one  donkey  beaten  to  death 
by  the  savages.  This  was  the  worst  of  all ; for  this  poor  brute 
carried  me  on  the  former  journey  to  the  southern  end  of  the 
N’yanza,  and,  in  consequence,  was  a great  pet. 

As  nothing  farther  transpired,  and  I was  all  in  the  dark  (26th), 
I wrote  to  Grant  telling  him  of  my  interviews  with  Lumeresi,  and 
requesting  him  to  pay  nothing;  but  it  was  too  late,  for  Grant,  to 
my  inexpressible  delight,  was  the  next  person  I saw ; he  walked 
into  camp,  and  then  we  had  a good  laugh  over  all  our  misfor- 
tunes. Poor  Grant,  he  had  indeed  had  a most  troublesome  time 
of  it.  The  scoundrel  Euhe,  who  only  laughed  at  Lumeresi’s  or- 
ders, had  stopped  his  getting  supplies  of  food  for  himself  and  his 
men ; told  him  it  was  lucky  that  he  came  direct  to  the  palace, 
for  full  preparations  had  been  made  for  stopping  him  had  he  at- 
tempted to  avoid  it;  would  not  listen  to  any  reference  being 
made  to  myself;  badgered  and  bullied  over  every  article  that  he 
extracted;  and,  finally,  when  he  found  compliance  with  his  ex- 
tortionate requests  was  not  readily  granted',  he  beat  the  war-drums 
to  frighten  the  porters,  and  ordered  the  caravan  out  of  his  palace, 
to  where  he  said  they  would  find  his  men  ready  to  fight  it  out 
with  them.  It  happened  that  Grant  had  just  given  Euhe  a gun 
when  my  note  arrived,  on  which  they  made  an  agreement  that  it 
was  to  be  restored,  provided  that,  after  the  full  knowledge  of  all 
these  transactions  had  reached  us,  it  was  both  Lumeresi’s  and  my 
desire  that  it  should  be  so. 

I called  Lumeresi  (27th),  and  begged  he  would  show  whether 
lie  was  the  chief  or  not  by  requiring  Euhe  to  disgorge  the  prop- 
erty he  had  taken  from  me.  His  Wanyapara  had  been  despised, 
and  I had  been  most  unjustly  treated.  Upon  this  the  old  chief 
hung  down  his  head,  and  said  it  touched  his  heart  more  than 
words  could  tell  to  hear  my  complaint,  for  until  I came  that  way 
no  one  had  come,  and  I had  paid  him  handsomely.  He  fully  ap- 
preciated the  good  service  I had  done  to  him  and  his  country  by 
opening  a road  which  all  caravans  for  the  future  would  follow  if 
properly  dealt  with.  Having  two  heads  in  a country  was  a most 
dangerous  thing,  but  it  could  not  be  helped  for  the  present,  as  his 
hands  were  too  completely  occupied  already.  There  were  Eo- 
hinda,  the  Watuta,  and  M’yonga,  whom  he  must  settle  with  before 
he  could  attend  to  Euhe;  but  when  he  was  free,  then  Euhe  should 
know  who  was  the  chief.  To  bring  the  matter  to  a climax,  Mrs. 


172 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


Lumeresi  then,  said  she  ought  to  have  something,  because  Buhe 
was  her  son,  while  Lumdresi  was  only  her  second  husband  and 
consort,  for  Buhe  was  born  to  her  by  her  former  husband.  She 
therefore  was  queen. 

Difficulties  now  commenced  again  (28th).  All  the  Wanguana 
struck,  and  said  they  would  go  no  farther.  I argued — they  ar- 
gued ; they  wanted  more  pay — I would  not  give  more.  Bombay, 
who  appeared  the  only  one  of  my  men  anxious  to  go  on  with  Grant 
and  myself,  advised  me  to  give  in,  else  they  would  all  run  away, 
he  said.  I still  stuck  out,  saying  that  if  they  did  go,  they  should 
be  seized  on  the  coast  and  cast  into  jail  for  desertion.  I had  sent 
for  fifty  more  men  on  the  same  terms  as  themselves,  and  nothing 
in  the  world  would  make  me  alter  what  had  been  established  at 
the  British  Consulate.  There  all  their  engagements  were  written 
down  in  the  office-book,  and  the  consul  was  our  judge. 

29 th  to  4th.  This  shut  them  up,  but  at  night  two  of  them  de- 
serted; the  W^nyamuezi  porters  also  deserted,  and  I had  to  find 
more.  While  this  was  going  on,  I wrote  letters  and  packed  up 
my  specimens,  and  sent  them  back  by  my  late  valet,  Bahan,  who 
also  got  orders  to  direct  Sheikh  Said  to  seize  the  two  men  who 
deserted,  and  take  them  down  chained  to  the  coast  when  he  went 
there.  On  the  4th,  Lumeresi  was  again  greatly  perplexed  by  his 
sovereign  Bohinda  calling  on  him  for  some  cloths;  he  must  have 
thirty  at  least,  else  he  would  not  give  up  Lumeresi’s  son.  Far- 
ther, he  commanded  in  a bullying  tone  that  all  the  Wahuma  who 
were  with  Lumeresi  should  be  sent  to  him  at  once ; adding,  at 
the  same  time,  if  his  royal  mandate  was  not  complied  with  as 
soon  as  he  expected,  he  would  at  once  send  a force  to  seize  Lu- 
meresi, and  place  another  man  in  his  stead  to  rule  over  the  dis- 
trict. 

Lumdrbsi,  on  hearing  this,  first  consulted  me,  saying  his  chief 
was  displeased  with  him,  accusing  him  of  being  too  proud  in  hav- 
ing at  once  two  such  distinguished  guests,  and  meant  by  these 
acts  only  to  humble  him.  I replied,  if  that  was  the  case,  the 
sooner  he  allowed  us  to  go,  the  better  it  would  be  for  him ; and, 
reminding  him  of  his  original  promise  to  give  me  assistance  on  to 
Usui,  said  he  could  do  so  now  with  a very  good  grace. 

Quite  approving  himself  of  this  suggestion,  Lumerbsi  then  gave 
me  one  of  his  officers  to  be  my  guide : his  name  was  Sangizo. 
This  man  no  sooner  received  his  orders  than,  proud  of  his  office 
as  the  guide  of  such  a distinguished  caravan,  he  set  to  work  to  find 


Oct.] 


UZINZA. 


173 


us  porters.  Meanwhile  my  Wasiii  friends,  who  left  on  the  25th 
of  August,  returned,  bearing  what  might  be  called  Suwar ora’s 
mace — a long  rod  of  brass  bound  up  in  stick  charms,  and  called 
kaquenzingiriri,  “ the  commander  of  all  things.”  This,  they  said, 
was  their  chief’s  invitation  to  us.  Suwarora  did  not  want  a 
bongo;  he  only  wished  to  see  us,  and  sent  this  kaquenzingiriri  to 
command  us  respect  wherever  we  went. 

5 th.  Without  seeing  us  again,  Lumeresi,  evidently  ashamed  of 
the  power  held  over  him  by  this  rod  of  Suwarora’s,  walked  off  in 
the  night,  leaving  word  that  he  was  on  his  way  to  Rube’s,  to  get 
back  my  gun  and  all  the  other  things  that  had  been  taken  from 
Grant.  The  same  night  a large  herd  of  cattle  was  stolen  from 
the  boma  without  any  one  knowing  it ; so  nest  morning,  when 
the  loss  was  discovered,  all  the  Wahiima  set  off  on  the  spoor  to 
track  them  down,  but  with  what  effect  I never  knew. 

As  I had  now  men  enough  to  remove  half  our  property,  I 
made  a start  of  it,  leaving  Grant  to  bring  up  the  rest. 

To  Muamba,  6th.  . 0 . 

1 believe  1 was  a most  miserable  spectre  m appear- 
ance, puffing  and  blowing  at  each  step  I took,  with  shoulder 
drooping,  and  left  arm  hanging  like  a dead  log,  which  I was  un- 
able ever  to  swing.  Grant,  remarking  this,  told  me  then,  although 
from  a friendly  delicacy  he  had  abstained  from  saying  so  earlier, 
that  my  condition,  when  he  first  saw  me  on  rejoining,  gave  him 
a sickening  shock.  Next  day  (7th)  he  came  up  with  the  rest  of 
the  property,  carried  by  men  who  had  taken  service  for  that  one 
march  only. 

Before  us  now  lay  a wilderness  of  five  marches’  duration,  as 
the  few  villages  that  once  lined  it  had  all  been  de- 

Halt,  8th.  ° 

populated  by  the  Sorombo  people  and  the  Watuta. 
We  therefore  had  to  lay  in  rations  for  those  days;  and  as  no  men 
could  be  found  who  would  take  service  to  Karague,  we  filled  up 
our  complement  with  men  at  exorbitant  wages  to  carry  our  things 
on  to  Usui.  At  this  place,  to  our  intense  joy,  three  of  Sheikh 
Said’s  boys  came  to  us  with  a letter  from  Rigby  ; but,  on  opening 
it,  our  spirits  at  once  fell  far  below  zero,  for  it  only  informed  us 
that  he  had  sent  us  all  kinds  of  nice  things,  and  letters  from  home, 
which  were  packed  up  in  boxes,  and  dispatched  from  the  coast  on 
the  30th  of  October,  1860. 

The  boys  then  told  me  that  a merchant,  nicknamed  Msopora, 
had  left  the  boxes  in  Ugogo,  in  charge  of  some  of  those  Arabs 
who  were  detained  there,  while  he  went  rapidly  round  by  the 


174 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


south,  following  np  the  Ruaha  River  to  Usanga  and  Usenga, 
whence  he  struck  across  to  Kaze.  Sheikh  Said,  they  said,  sent 
his  particular  respects  to  me;  he  had  heard  of  Grant’s  disasters 
with  great  alarm.  If  he  could  be  of  service,  he  would  readily 
come  to  me ; but  he  had  dreamed  three  times  that  he  saw  me 
marching  into  Cairo,  which,  as  three  times  were  lucky,  he  was 
sure  would  prove  good,  and  he  begged  I would  still  keep  my  nose 
well  to  the  front,  and  push  boldly  on.  Manila  Sbra  was  still  in 
the  field,  and  all  was  uncertain.  Bombay  then  told  me— he  had 
forgotten  to  do  so  before — that  when  he  was  last  at  Kaze,  Sheikh 
Said  told  him  he  was  sure  we  would  succeed  if  both  he  and  my- 
self pulled  together,  although  it  was  well  known  no  one  else  of 
my  party  wished  to  go  northward. 

With  at  last  a sufficiency  of  porters,  we  all  set  out  together, 

walking  over  a new  style  of  country.  Instead  of  the 

To  Kagongo,  9th.  . . 

constantly-recurring  outcrops  of  granite,  as  m Un- 
yamiiezi,  with  valleys  between,  there  were  only  two  lines  of  little 
hills  visible,  one  right  and  one  left  of  us,  a good  way  off ; while 
the  ground  over  which  we  were  traveling,  instead  of  being  con- 
fined like  a valley,  rose  in  long  high,  swells  of  sandstone  forma- 
tion, covered  with  small  forest-trees,  among  which  flowers  like 
primroses,  only  very  much  larger,  and  mostly  of  a pink  color, 
were  frequently  met  with.  Indeed,  we  ought  all  to  have  been 
happy  together,  for  all  my  men  were  paid  and  rationed  trebly — 
far  better  than  they  would  have  been  if  they  had  been  traveling 
with  any  one  else ; but  I had  not  paid  all,  as  they  thought,  pro- 
portionably,  and  therefore  there  were  constant  heart-burnings, 
with  strikes  and  rows  every  day.  It  was  useless  to  tell  them  that 
they  were  all  paid  according  to  their  own  agreements — that  all 
short-service  men  had  a right  to  expect  more  in  proportion  to 
their  work  than  long-service  ones ; they  called  it  all  love  and  par- 
tiality, and  in  their  envy  would  think  themselves  ill  used. 

At  night  the  kirangozi  would  harangue  the  camp,  cautioning 

all  hands  to  keep  together  on  the  line  of  march,  as 

To  Kagera,  10 th.  w ■ r ° . . , ’ 

the  W atuta  were  constantly  hovering  about,  and  the 
men  should  not  squabble  and  fight  with  their  master,  else  no  more 
white  men  would  come  this  way  again.  On  the  11th  we  were  out 
of  Bogue,  in  the  district  of  Ugomba,  and  next  march  brought  us 
into  Ugombe  (12th),  where  we  crossed  the  Ukongo  nullah,  drain- 
ing westward  to  the  Malagarazi  River.  Here  some  of  the  por- 
ters, attempting,  to  bolt,  were  intercepted  by  my  coast-men  and 


Oct.] 


UZINZA. 


175 


had  a fight  of  it,  for  they  fired  arrows,  and  in  return  the  coast- 
men  cut  their  bows.  The  whole  camp,  of  course,  was  in  a blaze 
at  this ; their  tribe  was  insulted,  and  they  would  not  stand  it,  un- 
til Bombay  put  down  their  pride  with  a few  strings  of  beads,  as 
the  best  means  of  restoring  peace  in  the  camp. 

At  this  place  we  were  visited  by  the  chief  of  the  district,  Pongo 
Han  nth  and  (Bush-boc),  who  had  left  his  palace  to  see  us  and  in- 
14-/i-  vite  us  his  way,  for  he  feared  we  might  give  him  the 

slip  by  going  west  into  Uyofu.  He  sent  us  a cow,  and  said  he 
should  like  some  return ; for  Masudi,  who  had  gone  ahead,  only 
gave  him  a trifle,  professing  to  be  our  vanguard,  and  telling  him 
that  as  soon  as  we  came  with  the  large  caravan  we  would  satisfy 
him  to  his  heart’s  content.  We  wished  for  an  interview,  but  he 
would  not  see  us,  as  he  was  engaged  looking  into  his  magic  horn, 
with  an  endeavor  to  see  what  sort  of  men  we  were,  as  none  of  our 
sort  had  ever  come  that  way  before. 

The  old  sort  of  thing  occurred  again.  I sent  him  one  kitambi 
and  eight  yards  of  kiniki,  explaining  how  fearfully  I was  reduced 
from  theft  and  desertions,  and  begging  he  would  have  mercy ; 
but,  instead  of  doing  so,  he  sent  the  things  back  in  a huff,  after  a 
whole  day’s  delay,  and  said  he  required,  besides,  one  sahari,  one 
kitambi,  and  eight  yards  kiniki.  In  a moment  I sent  them  over, 
and  begged  he  would  beat  the  drums ; but  no,  he  thought  he  was 
entitled  to.  ten  brass  wires  in  addition,  and  would  accept  them  at 
his  palace  the  next  day,  as  he  could  not  think  of  allowing  us  to 
leave  his  country  until  we  had  done  him  that  honor,  else  all  the 
surrounding  chiefs  would  call  him  inhospitable. 

Too  knowing  now  to  be  caught  with  such  chaff,  I told  him, 
To  Pongo's  resi-  through  Bombay,  if  he  would  consider  the  ten  brass 
dence,  nth.  wires  final,  I would  give  them,  and  then  go  to  his 
palace,  not  otherwise.  He  acceded  to  this,  but  no  sooner  got  them 
than  he  broke  his  faith,  and  said  he  must  either  have  more  pretty 
cloths,  or  five  more  brass  wires,  and  then,  without  doubt,  he  would 
beat  the  drums.  A long  badgering  bargain  ensued,  at  which  I 
made  all  my  men  be  present  as  witnesses,  and  we  finally  con- 
cluded the  hongo  with  four  more  brass  wires. 

The  drums  then  no  sooner  beat  the  satisfaction  than  the  Wa- 
siii  mace-bearers,  in  the  most  feeling  and  good-mannered  possible 
manner,  dropped  down  on  their  knees  before  me,  and  congratu- 
lated me  on  the  cessation  of  this  tormenting  business.  Feeling- 
much  freer,  we  now  went  over  and  put  up  in  Pongo’s  palace,  for 


176 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


we  had  to  halt  there  a day  to  collect  more  porters,  as  half  my  men 
had  just  bolted.  This  was  by  no  means  an  easy  job,  for  all  my 
American  sheeting  was  out,  and  so  was  the  kiniki.  Pongo  then 
for  the  first  time  showed  himself,  sneaking  about  with  an  escort, 
hiding  his  head  in  a cloth  lest  our  “ evil  eyes”  might  bewitch  him. 
Still  he  did  us  a good  turn ; for  on  the  16th  he  persuaded  his  men 
to  take  service  with  us  at  the  enormous  hire  of  ten  necklaces  of 
beads  per  man  for  every  day’s  march — nearly  ten  times  what  an 
Arab  pays.  Fowls  were  as  plentiful  here  as  elsewhere,  though 
the  people  only  kept  them  to  sell  to  travelers,  or  else  for  cutting 
them  open  for  divining  purposes  by  inspection  of  their  blood  and 
bones. 

From  the  frying-pan  we  went  into  the  fire  in  crossing  from 
To  N’yarti-  Ugombb  into  the  district  of  Wanga,  where  we  beat 
"•amba’s, nth.  Up  the  FPyaruwamba,  and  at  once  went  into  the 
hongo  business.  He  offered  a cow  to  commence  with,  which  I 
would  not  accept  until  the  tax  was  paid,  and  then  I made  my  of- 
fering of  two  wires,  one  kitambi,  and  one  kisutu.  Badgering  then 
commenced : I must  add  two  wires,  and  six  makete  or  necklaces 
of  mzizima  beads,  the  latter  being  due  to  the  chief  for  negotiating 
the  tax.  When  this  addition  was  paid,  we  should  be  freed  by 
beat  of  drum. 

a. 

I complied  at  once,  by  way  of  offering  a special  mark  of  respect 
and  friendship,  and  on  the  reliance  that  he  would  keep  his  word. 
The  scoundrel,  however,  no  sooner  got  the  articles,  than  he  said  a 
man  had  just  come  there  to  inform  him  that  I gave  Pongo  ten 
wires  and  ten  cloths ; he,  therefore,  could  not  be  satisfied  until  I 
added  one  more  wire,  when,  without  fail,  he  would  beat  the  drums. 
It  was  given,  after  many  angry  words ; but  it  was  the  old  story 
over  again — he  would  have  one  more  wire  and  a cloth,  or  else 
he  would  not  allow  us  to  proceed  on  the  morrow.  My  men,  this 
time  really  provoked,  said  they  would  fight  it  out — a king  break- 
ing his  word  in  that  way ! But,  in  the  end,  the  demand  had  to 
be  paid ; and  at  last,  at  9 P.M.,  the  drums  beat  the  satisfaction. 

From  this  we  went  on  to  the  north  end  of  Wanga,  in  front  of 
to  border  of  which  was  a wilderness,  separating  the  possessions  of 
ukhanga,  isiA.  R0hinda  from  those  of  Suwarora.  We  put  up  in  a 
boma,  but  were  not  long  ensconced  there  when  the  villagers  got 
up  a pretext  for  a quarrel,  thinking  they  could  plunder  us  of  all 
our  goods,  and  began  pitching  into  my  men.  We,  however, 
proved  more  than  a mateh  for  them.  Our  show  of  guns  fright- 


Oct.] 


UZINZA. 


177 


ened  them  all  out  of  the  place ; mj  men  then  gave  chase,  firing 
off  in  the  air,  which  sent  them  flying  over  the  fields,  and  left  us 
to  do  there  as  we  liked  until  night,  when  a few  of  the  villagers 
came  back  and  took  up  their  abode  with  us  quietly.  Next,  after- 
dark,  the  little  village  was  on  the  alert  again.  The  "VVatuta  were 
out  marching,  and  it  was  rumored  that  they  were  bound  for 
N’yaruwamba’s.  The  porters  who  were  engaged  at  Pongo’s  now 
gave  us  the  slip ; we  were  consequently  detained  here  next  da}7 
(19th),  when,  after  engaging  a fresh  set,  we  crossed  the  wilder- 
ness, and  in  Usui  put  up  with  Suwarora’s  border  officer  of  this 
post,  N’yamanira. 

Here  we  were  again  brought  to  a standstill. 

M 


178 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

USUI. 

Taxation  recommenced. — A great  Doctor. — Sflwarora  Pillaging. — The  Arabs. — 
Conference  with  an  Embassador  from  Uganda. — Disputes  in  Camp. — Rivalry  of 
Bombay  and  Baraka. — Departure  from  the  inhospitable  Districts. 

We  were  now  in  Usui,  and  so  the  mace-bearers,  being  on  their 
own  ground,  forgot  their  manners,  and  peremptorily 
usui’ mu  ana  demanded  their  pay  before  they  would  allow  us  to 
move  one  step  farther.  At  first  I tried  to  stave  the 
matter  off,  promising  great  rewards  if  they  took  us  quickly  on  to 
Suwarora;  but  they  would  take  no  alternative — their  rights  were 
four  wires  each.  I could  not  afford  such  a sum,  and  tried  to  beat 
them  down,  but  without  effect;  for  they  said  they  had  it  in  their 
power  to  detain  us  here  a whole  month,  and  they  could  get  us 
bullied  at  every  stage  by  the  officers  of  the  stations.  Ho  threats 
of  reporting  them  to  their  chief  had  any  effect ; so,  knowing  that 
treachery  in  these  countries  was  a powerful  enemy,  I ordered 
them  to  be  paid.  N’yamanira,  the  Mkiingu,  then  gave  us  a goat 
and  two  pots  of  pombe,  begging,  at  the  same  time,  for  four  wires, 
which  I paid,  hoping  thus  to  get  on  in  the  morning. 

I then  made  friends  with  him,  and  found  he  was  a great  doctor 
as  well  as  an  officer.  In  front  of  his  hut  he  had  his  church  or 
uganga — a tree,  in  which  was  fixed  a blaue  boc’s  horn  charged 
with  magic  powder,  and  a zebra’s  hoof,  suspended  by  a string 
over  a pot  of  water  sunk  in  the  earth  below  it.  His  badges  of 
office  he  had  tied  on  his  head ; the  butt  of  a shell,  representing 
the  officer’s  badge,  being  fixed  on  the  forehead,  while  a small 
sheep’s  horn,  fixed  jauntily  over  the  temple,  denoted  that  he  was 
a magician.  Wishing  to  try  my  powers  in  magical  arts,  as  I 
laughed  at  his  church,  he  begged  me  to  produce  an  everlasting 
spring  of  water  by  simply  scratching  the  ground.  He,  however, 
drew  short  up,  to  the  intense  delight  of  my  men,  on  my  promising 
that  I would  do  so  if  he  made  one  first. 

At  night,  22d,  a steel  scabbard  and  some  cloths  were  extracted 
from  our  camp,  so  I begged  my  friend,  the  great  doctor,  would 


Oct.] 


USUI. 


179 


show  us  the  use  of  his  horn.  This  was  promised,  but  never  per- 
formed. I then  wished  to  leave,  as  the  "Wasui  guides,  on  receiv- 
ing their  pay,  promised  we  should ; but  they  deferred,  on  the  plea 
that  one  of  them  must  see  their  chief  first,  and  get  him  to  frank 
us  through,  else,  they  said,  we  should  be  torn  to  pieces.  I said  I 
thought  the  kaquenzingiriri  could  do  this;  but  they  said,  “ISTo; 
Suwarora  must  be  told  first  of  your  arrival,  to  prepare  him  prop- 
erly for  your  coming ; so  stop  here  for  three  days  with  two  of  us, 
while  the  third  one  goes  to  the  palace  and  returns  again ; for  you 
know  the  chiefs  of  these  countries  do  not  feel  safe  until  they  have 
had  a look  at  the  uganga.” 

One  of  them  then  went  away,  but  no  sooner  had  left  than  a man 
named  Makinga  arrived  to  invite  us  on,  as  he  said,  at  his  adopted 
brother  K’yengo’s  request.  Makinga  then  told  us  that  Snwarora, 
on  first  hearing  that  we  were  coming,  became  greatly  afraid,  and 
said  he  would  not  let  us  set  eyes  on  his  country,  as  he  was  sure 
we  were  king-dethroners ; but,  referring  for  opinion  to  Dr.  K’yen- 
go,  his  fears  were  overcome  by  the  doctor  assuring  him  that  he 
had  seen  hosts  of  our  sort  at  Zanzibar;  and  he  knew,  moreover, 
that  some  years  ago  we  had  been  to  Ujiji  and  to  Ukerewe  with- 
out having  done  any  harm  in  those  places ; and,  farther,  since 
Musa  had  sent  word  that  I had  done  my  best  to  subdue  the  war 
at  Unyanyembe,  and  had  promised  to  do  my  best  here,  he,  Suwa- 
rora,  had  been  anxiously  watching  our  movements,  and  longed 
for  our  arrival.  This  looked  famous,  and  it  was  agreed  we  should 
move  the  next  morning.  Just  then  a new  light  broke  in  on  my 
defeat  at  Sorombo,  for  with  Makinga  I recognized  one  of  my 
former  porters,  who  I had  supposed  was  a “ child”  of  the  Pig’s. 
This  man  now  said  before  all  my  men,  Baraka  included,  that  he 
wished  to  accept  the  load  of  mzizima  I had  offered  the  Pig  if  he 
would  go  forward  with  Baraka  and  tell  Suwarora  I wanted  some 
porters  to  help  me  to  reach  him.  He  was  not  a “ child”  of  the 
Pig’s,  but  a “ child”  of  K’yengo’s ; and  as  Baraka  would  not  allow 
him  to  accept  the  load  of  mzizima,  he  went  on  to  K’yengo  by 
himself,  and  told  all  that  had  happened.  It  was  now  quite  clear 
what  motives  induced  Suwarora  to  send  out  the  three  Wasui ; 
but  how  I blessed  Baraka  for  this  in  my  heart,  though  I said 
nothing  about  it  to  him,  for  fear  of  his  playing  some  more  treach- 
erous tricks.  Grant  then  told  me  Baraka  had  been  frightened  at 
Mininga  by  a blackguard  mganga,  to  whom  he  would  not  give  a 
present,  into  the  belief  that  our  journey  would  encounter  some 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


180 


[1861. 


terrible  mishap ; for,  when  the  M’yonga  catastrophe  happened, 
he  thought  that  a fulfillment  of  the  mganga’s  prophecy. 

I wished  to  move  in  the  morning  (23d),  and  had  all  hands 
ready,  but  was  told  by  Makinga  he  must  be  settled  with  first. 
His  dues  for  the  present  were  four  brass  wires,  and  as  many  more 
when  we  reached  the  palace.  I could  not  stand  this:  we  were 
literally,  as  Musa  said  we  should  be,  being  “torn  to  pieces;”  so  I 
appealed  to  the  mace-bearers,  protested  that  Makinga  could  have 
no  claims  on  me,  as  he  was  not  a man  of  Usui,  but  a native  of 
Utambara,  and  brought  on  a row.  On  the  other  hand,  as  he  could 
not  refute  this,  Makinga  swore  the  mace  was  all  a pretense,  and 
set  a fighting  with  the  Wasui  and  all  the  men  in  turn. 

To  put  a stop  to  this,  I ordered  a halt,  and  called  on  the  dis- 
trict officer  to  assist  us,  on  which  he  said  he  would  escort  us  on  to 
Suwarora’s  if  we  would  stop  till  next  morning.  This  was  agreed 
to ; but  in  the  night  we  were  robbed  of  three  goats,  which  he  said 
he  could  not  allow  to  be  passed  over,  lest  Suwarora  might  hear 
of  it,  and  he  would  get  into  a scrape.  He  pressed  us  strongly  to 
stop  another  day  while  he  sought  for  them,  but  I told  him  I would 
not,  as  his  magic  powder  was  weak,  else  he  would  have  found  the 
scabbard  we  lost  long  before  this. 

At  last  we  got  under  way,  and,  after  winding  through  a long 
to  virembo’s,  forest,  we  emerged  on  the  first  of  the  populous  parts 

Uth • of  Usui,  a most  conyulsed-looking  country,  of  well- 

rounded  hills  composed  of  sandstone.  In  all  the  parts  not  under 
cultivation  they  were  covered  with  brushwood.  Here  the  little 
grass-hut  villages  were  not  fenced  by  a boma,  but  were  hidden  in 
large  fields  of  plantains.  Cattle  were  numerous,  kept  by  the 
Wahuma,  who  would  not  sell  their  milk  to  us  because  we  ate 
fowls  and  a bean  called  maharague. 

Happily,  no  one  tried  to  pillage  us  here,  so  on  we  went  to  Vi- 
Tovikora's,  kora’s,  another  officer,  living  at  N’yakasenye,  under 
25rt'  a sandstone  hill,  faced  with  a dike  of  white  quartz, 

over  which  leaped  a small  stream  of  water — a seventy-feet  drop — 
which,  it  is  said,  Suwarora  sometimes  paid  homage  to  when  the 
land  was  oppressed  by  drought.  Vikora’s  father  it  was  whom 
Sirboko  of  Mininga  shot.  Usually  he  was  very  severe  with  mer- 
chants in  consequence  of  that  act;  but  he  did  not  molest  us,  as 
the  messenger  who  went  on  to  Suwarora  returned  here  just  as  we 
arrived,  to  say  we  must  come  on  at  once,  as  Suwarora  was  anx- 
ious to  see  us,  and  had  ordered  his  Wakungu  not  to  molest  us. 


Oct.]  USUI.  181 

Thieves  that  night  entered  our  ring-fence  of  thorns,  and  stole  a 
cloth  from  off  one  of  my  men  while  he  was  sleeping. 

We  set  down  Suwarora,  after  this  very  polite  message,  “a  reg- 
to  Kariwami’s,  ular  trump,”  and  walked  up  the  hill  of  N’yakasenye 
26th-  with  considerable  mirth,  singing  his  praises ; but  we 

no  sooner  planted  ourselves  on  the  summit  than  we  sang  a very 
different  tune.  We  were  ordered  to  stop  by  a huge  body  of  men, 
and  to  pay  toll. 

Suwarora,  on  second  thoughts,  had  changed  his  mind,  or  else 
he  had  been  overruled  by  two  of  his  officers — ;Kariwami,  who 
lived  here,  and  Virembo,  who  lived  two  stages  back,  but  were 
then  with  their  chief.  There  was  no  help  for  it,  so  I ordered  the 
camp  to  be  formed,  and  sent  ISTasib  and  the  mace-bearers  at  once 
off  to  the  palace  to  express  to  his  highness  how  insulted  I felt  as 
his  guest,  being  stopped  in  this  manner,  even  when  I had  his  ka- 
quenzingiriri  with  me  as  his  authority  that  I was  invited  there  as 
a guest.  I was  not  a merchant  who  carried  merchandise,  but  a 
prince  like  himself,  come  on  a friendly  mission  to  see  him  and 
Rumanika.  I was  waiting  at  night  for  the  return  of  the  messen- 
gers, and  sitting  out  with  my  sextant  observing  the  stars,  to  fix 
my  position,  when  some  daring  thieves,  in  the  dark  bushes  close 
by,  accosted  two  of  the  women  of  the  camp,  pretending  a desire 
to  know  what  I was  doing.  They  were  no  sooner  told  by  the 
unsuspecting  women,  than  they  whipped  off  their  clothes  and  ran 
away  with  them,  allowing  their  victims  to  pass  me  in  a state  of 
absolute  nudity.  I could  stand  this  thieving  no  longer.  My 
goats  and  other  things  had  been  taken  away  without  causing  me 
much  distress  of  mind,  but  now,  after  this  shocking  event,  I order- 
ed my  men  to  shoot  at  any  thieves  that  came  near  them. 

This  night  one  was  shot,  without  any  mistake  about  it ; for  the 

next  morning  we  tracked  him  by  his  blood,  and  aft- 

Xl9.lt  ^ */  > 

erward  heard  he  had  died  of  his  wound.  The  Wasui 
elders,  contrary  to  my  expectation,  then  came  and  congratulated 
us  on  our  success.  They  thought  us  most  wonderful  men,  and 
possessed  of  supernatural  powers;  for  the  thief  in  question  was 
a magician,  who  until  now  was  thought  to  be  invulnerable.  In- 
deed, they  said  Arabs  with  enormous  caravans  had  often  been 
plundered  by  these  people ; but,  though  they  had  so  many  more 
guns  than  ourselves,  they  never  succeeded  in  killing  one. 

Nasib  then  returned  to  inform  us  that  the  king  had  heard  our 
complaint,  and  was  sorry  for  it,  but  said  he  could  not  interfere 


182 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1801. 


with  the  rights  of  his  officers.  He  did  not  wish  himself  to  take 
any  thing  from  us,  and  hoped  we  would  come  on  to  him  as  soon 
as  we  had  satisfied  his  officers  with  the  trifle  they  wanted.  Yi- 
rembo  then  sent  us  some  pombe  by  his  officers,  and  begged  us  to 
have  patience,  for  he  was  then  fleecing  Masudi  at  the  encamping- 
ground  near  the  palace.  This  place  was  alive  with  thieves.  Dur- 
ing the  day  they  lured  my  men  into  their  huts  by  inviting  them 
to  dinner;  but,  when  they  got  them,  they  stripped  them  stark- 
naked  and  let  them  go  again,  while  at  night  they  stoned  our 
camp.  After  this,  one  more  was  shot  dead  and  two  others 
wounded. 

I knew  that  Suwarora’s  message  was  all  humbug,  and  that  his 

officers  merely  kept  about  one  per  cent,  of  what  they 

Halt  28 th  j i.  i j 

took  from  travelers,  paying  the  balance  into  the  roy- 
al coffers.  Thinking  I was  now  well  in  for  a good  fleecing  my- 
self, I sent  Bombay  off  to  Masudi’s  camp  to  tell  Insangez,  who 
was  traveling  with  him  on  a mission  of  his  master’s,  old  Musa’s 
son,  that  I -would  reward  him  handsomely  if  he  would,  on  arrival 
at  Karague,  get  Rumanika  to  send  us  his  mace  here  in  the  same 
way  as  Suwarora  had  done  to  help  us  out  of  Bogue,  as  he  knew 
Musa  at  one  time  said  he  would  go  with  us  to  Karague  in  person. 
When  Bombay  was  gone,  Yirembo  then  deputed  Kariwami  to 
take  the  hongo  for  both  at  once,  mildly  requiring  40  wires,  80 
cloths,  and  400  necklaces  of  every  kind  of  bead  we  possessed. 
This  was,  indeed,  too  much  of  a joke.  I complained  of  all  the 
losses  I had  suffered,  and  begged  for  mercy ; but  all  he  said,  after 
waiting  the  whole  day,  was,  “ Do  not  stick  at  trifles ; for,  after 
settling  with  us,  you  will  have  to  give  as  much  more  to  Yikora, 
who  lives  down  below.” 

Next  morning,  as  I said  I could  not  by  any  means  pay  such  an 

exorbitant  tax  as  was  demanded,  Kariwami  begged 

Halt  29 th.  7 

me  to  make  an  offer,  which  I did  by  sending  him 
four  wires.  These,  of  course,  were  rejected  with  scorn  ; so,  in  ad- 
dition, I sent  an  old  box.  That,  too,  was  thrown  back  on  me,  as 
nothing  short  of  20  wires,  40  cloths,  and  200  necklaces  of  all  sorts 
of  beads  would  satisfy  him ; and  this  I ought  to  be  contented  to 
pay,  as  he  had  been  so  moderate  because  I was  the  king’s  guest, 
and  had  been  so  reduced  by  robbery.  I now  sent  six  wires  more, 
and  said  this  was  the  last  I could  give — they  were  worth  so  many 
goats  to  me — and  now,  by  giving  them  away,  I should  have  to 
live  on  grain  like  a poor  man,  though  I was  a prince  in  my  own 


Oct.] 


i 


USUI. 


183 


country,  just  like  Suwarora.  Surely  Suwarora  could  not  permit 
this  if  he  knew  it ; and  if  they  would  not  suffice,  I should  have  to 
stop  here  until  called  again  by  Suwarora.  The  ruffian,  on  hear- 
ing this,  allowed  the  wires  to  lie  in  his  hut,  and  said  he  was  going 
away,  but  hoped,  when  he  returned,  I should  have,  as  I had  got 
no  cloths,  20  wires,  and  1000  necklaces  of  extra  length,  strung 
and  all  ready  for  him. 

Just  then  Bombay  returned  flushed  with  the  excitement  of  a 
great  success.  He  had  been  in  Masudi’s  camp,  and  had  delivered 
my  message  to  Insangez.  Masudi,  he  said,  had  been  there  a fort- 
night unable  to  settle  his  hongo,  for  the  great  Mkama  had  not 
deigned  to  see  him,  though  the  Arab  had  been  daily  to  his  palace 
requesting  an  interview.  “ Well,”  I said,  “ that  . is  all  very  inter- 
esting, but  what  next?  will  the  big  king  see  us  ?”  “ Oh  no  ; by 

the  very  best  good  fortune  in  the  world,  on  going  into  the  palace 
I saw  Suwarora,  and  spoke  to  him  at  once ; but  he  was  so  tre- 
mendously drunk  he  could  not  understand  me.”  “ What  luck 
was  there  in  that?”  I asked.  On  which  Bombay  said,  “ Oh,  every 
body  in  the  place  congratulated  me  on  my  success  in  having  ob- 
tained an  interview  with  that  great  monarch  the  very  first  day, 
when  Arabs  had  seldom  that  privilege  under  one  full  month  of 
squatting;  even  Masudi  had  not  yet  seen  him.”  To  which  Ha- 
sib  also  added,  “ Ah ! yes — indeed  it  is  so — a monstrous  success  ; 
there  is  great  ceremony  as  well  as  business  at  these  courts ; you 
will  better  see  what  I mean  when  you  get  to  Uganda.  These 
Wahurna  kings  are  not  like  those  you  ever  saw  in  Unyamuezi  or 
any  where  else ; they  have  officers  and  soldiers  like  Said  Majid, 
the  Sultan  at  Zanzibar.”  “Well,”  said  I to  Bombay,  “ what  was 
Suwarora  like  ?”  “ Oh,  he  is  a very  fine  man — just  as  tall,  and  in 

the  face  very  like  Grant;  in  fact,  if  Grant  were  black  you  would 
not  know  the  difference.”  “And  were  his  officers  drunk  too?” 
“Oh  yes,  they  were  all  drunk  together;  men  were  bringing  in 
pornbe  all  day.”  “And  did  you  get  drunk?”  “Oh  yes,”  said 
Bombay,  grinning,  and  showing  his  whole  row  of  sharp-pointed 
teeth,  “they  would  make  me  drink;  and  then  they  showed  me 
the  place  they  assigned  for  your  camp  when  you  come  over  there. 
It  was  not  in  the  palace,  but  outside,  without  a tree  near  it — any 
thing  but  a nice-looking  residence.”  I then  sent  Bombay  to  work 
at  the  hongo  business ; but,  after  haggling  till  night  with  Kari- 
wami,  he  was  told  he  must  bring  fourteen  brass  wires,  two  cloths, 
and  five  mukhnai  of  kanyera,  or  white  porcelain  beads,  which,  re- 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


184 


[1861. 


Halt,  50th. 


duced,  amounted  to  three  hundred  necklaces,  else  he  said  I might 
stop  there  for  a month. 

At  last  I settled  this  confounded  hongo  by  paying  seven  ad- 
ditional wires  in  lieu  of  the  cloth  ; and,  delighted  at 
the  termination  of  this  tedious  affair,  I ordered  a 
march.  Like  magic,  however,  Yikora  turned  up,  and  said  we 
must  wait  until  he  was  settled  with.  His  rank  was  the  same  as 
the  others,  and  one  bead  less  than  I had  given  them  he  would 
not  take.  I fought  all  the  day  out,  but  the  next  morning,  as  he 
deputed  the  officers  to  take  nine  wires,  these  were  given,  and  then 
we  went  on  with  the  journey. 

Tripping  along  over  the  hill,  we  descended  to  a deep  miry 
to  uthungs,  water-course,  full  of  bulrushes,  then  over  another  hill, 
31sJ-  from  the  heights  of  which  we  saw  Suwarora’s  palace 

lying  down  in  the  Uthungu  valley,  behind  which  again  rose  an- 


Uthungu  Vajley. 


other  hill  of  sandstone,  faced  on  the  top  with  a dike  of  white 
quartz.  The  scene  was  very  striking,  for  the  palace  inclosures, 
of  great  extent,  were  well  laid  out  to  give  effect.  Three  circles 
of  milk-bush,  one  within  the  other,  formed  the  boma,  or  ring- 
fence.  The  chief’s  hut  (I  do  not  think  him  worthy  the  name  of 
king,  since  the  kingdom  is  divided  in  two)  was  three  times  as 
large  as  any  of  the  others,  and  stood  by  itself  at  the  farther  end ; 
while  the  smaller  huts,  containing  his  officers  and  domestics,  were 
arranged  in  little  groups  within  the  circle,  at  certain  distances 
apart  from  one  another,  sufficient  to  allow  of  their  stalling  their 
cattle  at  night. 

On  descending  into  the  Uthungu  valley,  Grant,  who  was  pre- 


Nov.] 


USUI. 


187 


ceding  the  men,  found  Makinga  opposed  to  the  progress  of  the 
caravan  until  his  dues  were  paid.  He  was  a stranger  like  our- 
selves, and  was  consequently  treated  with  scorn,  until  he  tried  to 
maintain  what  he  called  his  right  by  pulling  the  loads  off  my 
men’s  shoulders,  whereupon  Grant  cowed  him  into  submission, 
and  all  went  on  again — not  to  the  palace,  as  we  had  supposed, 
but,  by  the  direction. of  the  mace-bearers,  to  the  huts  of  Suwaro- 
ra’s  commander-in-chief,  two  miles  from  the  palace ; and  here  we 
found  Masudi’s  camp  also.  We  had  no  sooner  formed  camp  for 
ourselves  and  arranged  all  our  loads,  than  the  eternal  Vikora, 
whom  I thought  we  had  settled  with  before  we  started,  made  a 
claim  for  some  more  wire,  cloth,  and  beads,  as  he  had  not  re- 
ceived as  much  as  Kariwami  and  Yirembo.  Of  course  I would 
not  listen  to  this,  as  I had  paid  what  his  men  asked  for,  and  that 
was  enough  for  me.  Just  then  Masudi,  with  the  other  Arabs 
who  were  traveling  with  him,  came  over  to  pay  us  a visit,  and 
inquire  what  we  thought  of  the  Usui  taxes.  He  had  just  con- 
cluded his  hongo  to  Suwarora  by  paying  80  wires,  120  yards  of 
cloth,  and  130  lbs.  of  beads,  while  he  had  also  paid  to  every 
officer  from  20  to  40  wires,  as  well  as  cloths  and  beads.  On  hear- 
ing of  my  transactions,  he  gave  it  as  his  opinion  that  I had  got 
off  surprisingly  well. 

Next  morning  (1st)  Masudi  and  his  party  started  for  Karagub. 
They  had  been  more  than  a year  between  this  and  Kaze,  trying 
all  the  time  to  get  along.  Provisions  here  were  abundant  — 
hawked  about  by  the  people,  who  wore  a very  neat  skin  kilt 
strapped  round  the  waist,  but  otherwise  were  decorated  like  the 
Wanyamuezi.  It  was  difficult  to  say  who  were  of  true  breed 
here,  for  the  intercourse  of  the  natives  with  the  Wahuma  and  the 
Wanyamiiezi  produced  a great  variety  of  facial  features  among 
the  people.  Nowhere  did  I ever  see  so  many  men  and  women 
with  hazel  eyes  as  at  this  place. 

In  the  evening,  a Uganda  man,  by  name  N’yamgundu,  came  to 
pay  his  respects  to  us.  He  was  dressed  in  a large  skin  wrapper, 
made  up  of  a number  of  very  small  antelope  skins : it  was  as  soft 
as  kid,  and  just  as  well  sewn  as  our  gloves.  To  our  surprise,  the 
manners  of  the  man  were  quite  in  keeping  with  his  becoming 
dress.  I was  enchanted  with  his  appearance,  and  so  were  my 
men,  though  no  one  could  speak  to  him  but  Nasib,  who  told  us 
he  knew  him  before.  He  was  the  brother  of  the  dowager  queen 
of  Uganda,  and,  along  with  a proper  body  of  officers,  he  had  been 


188 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


sent  by  Mtesa,  the  present  king  of  Uganda,  to  demand  the  daugh- 
ter of  Suwarora,  as  reports  had  reached  his  king  that  she  was  sur- 
prisingly beautiful.  They  had  been  here  more  than  a year,  dur- 
ing which  time  this  beautiful  virgin  had  died ; and  now  Suwa- 
rora, fearful  of  the  great  king’s  wrath,  consequent  on  his  procras- 
tinations, was  endeavoring  to  make  amends  for  it  by  sending,  in- 
stead of  his  daughter,  a suitable  tribute  in  wires.  I thought  it 
not  wonderful  that  we  should  be  fleeced. 

Next  day  (2d)  Sirhid  paid  us  a visit,  and  said  he  was  the  first 
man  in  the  state.  He  certainly  was  a nice-looking  young  man, 
with  a good  deal  of  the  Wahuma  blood  in  him.  Flashily  dressed 
in  colored  cloths  and  a turban,  he  sat  down  in  one  of  our  chairs 
as  if  he  had  been  accustomed  to  such  a seat  all  his  life,  and  spoke 
with  great  suavity.  I explained  our  difficulties  as  those  of  great 
men  in  misfortune;  and,  after  listening  to  our  tale,  he  said  he 
would  tell  Suwarora  of  the  way  we  had  been  plundered,  and  im- 
press upon  him  to  deal  lightly  with  us.  I said  I had  brought  with 
me  a few  articles  of  European  manufacture  for  Suwarora,  which 
I hoped  would  be  accepted  if  I presented  them,  for  they  were 
such  things  as  only  great  men  like  his  chief  eyer  possessed.  One 
was  a five-barreled  pistol,  another  a large  block-tin  box,  and  so 
forth ; but,  after  looking  at  them,  and  seeing  the  pistol  fired,  he 
said,  “No;  you  must  not  show  these  things  at  first,  or  the  Mkama 
might  get  frightened,  thinking  them  magic.  I might  lose  my 
head  for  presuming  to  offer  them,  and  then  there  is  no  knowing 
what  might  happen  afterward.”  “ Then  can  I not  see  him  at 
once  and  pay  my  respects,  for  I have  come  a great  way  to  obtain 
that  pleasure?”  “ No,”  said  Sirhid,  “I  will  see  him  first;  for  he 
is  not  a man  like  myself,  but  requires  to  be  well  assured  before 
he  sees  any  body.”  “ Then  why  did  he  invite  me  here?”  “He 
heard  that  Makaka,  and  afterward  Lumeresi,  had  stopped  your 
progress;  and  as  he  wished  to  see  what  you  were  like,  he  ordered 
me  to  send  some  men  to  you,  which,  as  you  know,  I did  twice. 
He  wishes  to  see  you,  but  does  not  like  doing  things  in  a hurry. 
Superstition,  you  know,  preys  on  these  men’s  minds  who  have 
not  seen  the  world  like  you  and  myself.”  Sirhid  then  said  he 
would  ask  Suwarora  to  grant  us  an  interview  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble ; then,  while  leaving,  he  begged  for  the  iron  chair  he  had  sat 
upon ; but,  hearing  we  did  not  know  how  to  sit  on  the  ground, 
and  therefore  could  not  spare  it,  he  withdrew  without  any  more 
words  about  it. 


Nov.] 


USUI. 


189 


Virembo  then  said  (3d)  he  must  have  some  more  wire  and 
beads,  as  his  proxy  Kariwami  had  been  satisfied  with  too  little. 
I drove  him  off  in  a huff,  but  he  soon  came  back  again  with  half 
the  hongo  I had  paid  to  Kariwami,  and  said  he  must  have  some 
cloths,  or  he  would  not  have  any  thing.  As  fortune  decreed  it, 
just  then  Sirhid  dropped  in,  and  stopped  his  importunity  for  the 
time  by  saying  that  if  we  had  possessed  cloths  his  men  must  have 
known  it,  for  they  had  been  traveling  with  us.  No  sooner,  how- 
ever, did  Virembo  turn  tail  than  the  Sirhid  gave  us  a broad  hint 
that  he  usually  received  a trifle  from  the  Arabs  before  he  made 
an  attempt  at  arranging  the  hongo  with  Suwarora.  Any  trifle 
would  do,  but  he  preferred  cloth. 

This  was  rather  perplexing.  Sirhid  knew  very  well  that  I had 
a small  reserve  of  pretty  cloths,  though  all  the  common  ones  had 
been  expended ; so,  to  keep  in  good  terms  with  him  who  was  to 
be  our  intercessor,  I said  I would  give  him  the  last  I had  got  if 
he  would  not  tell  Suwarora  or  any  one  else  what  I had  done.  Of 
course  he  was  quite  ready  to  undertake  the  condition,  so  I gave 
him  two  pretty  cloths,  and  he,  in  return,  gave  me  two  goats.  But 
when  this  little  business  had  been  transacted,  to  my  surprise  he 
said,  “ I have  orders  from  Suwarora  to  be  absent  five  days  to  doc- 
tor a sick  relation  of  his,  for  there  is  no  man  in  the  country  so 
skilled  in  medicines  as  myself;  but,  while  I am  gone,  I will  leave 
Karambule,  my  brother,  to  officiate  in  my  stead  about  taking  your 
hongo ; but  the  work  will  not  commence  until  to-morrow,  for  I 
must  see  Suwarora  on  the  subject  myself  first.” 

Irungu,  a very  fine-looking  man  of  Uganda,  now  called  on  me 
and  begged  for  beads.  He  said  his  king  had  heard  of  our  ap- 
proach, and  was  most  anxious  to  see  us.  Hearing  this,  I begged 
him  to  wait  here  until  my  hongo  was  paid,  that  we  might  travel 
on  to  Uganda  together.  He  said,  No,  he  could  not  wait,  for  he 
had  been  detained  here  a whole  year  already  ; but,  if  I liked,  he 
would  leave  some  of  his  children  behind  with  me,  as  their  pres- 
ence would  intimidate  Suwarora,  and  incite  him  to  let  us  off 
quickly. 

I then  begged  him  to  convey  a Colt’s  six-chamber  revolving 
rifle  to  his  king,  Mtesa,  as  an  earnest  that  I was  a prince  most  de- 
sirous of  seeing  him.  No  one,  I said,  but  myself  could  tell  what 
dangers  and  difficulties  I had  encountered  to  come  this  far  for  the 
purpose,  and  all  was  owing  to  his  great  fame,  as  the  king  of  kings, 
having  reached  me  even  as  far  off  as  Zanzibar.  The  embassador 


190 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1801. 


would  not  take  the  rifle,  lest  liis  master,  who  had  never  seen  such 
a wonderful  weapon  before,  should  think  he  had  brought  him  a 
malign  charm,  and  he  would  be  in  danger  of  losing  his  head.  I 
then  tried  to  prevail  on  him  to  take  a knife  and  some  other  pret- 
ty things,  but  he  feared  them  all ; so,  as  a last  chance — for  I wish- 
ed to  send  some  token,  by  way  of  card  or  letter,  for  announcing 
my  approach  and  securing  the  road — I gave  him  a red  sixpenny 
pocket-handkerchief,  which  he  accepted ; and  he  then  told  me  he 
was  surprised  I had  come  all  this  way  round  to  Uganda,  w7hen 
the  road  by  the  Masai  country  was  so  much  shorter.  He  told  me 
how,  shortly  after  the  late  king  of  Uganda,  Sunna,  died,  and  be- 
fore Mtesa  had  been  selected  by  the  officers  of  the  country  to  be 
their  king,  an  Arab  caravan  came  across  the  Masai  as  far  as  Uso- 
ga,  and  begged  for  permission  to  enter  Uganda;  but,  as  the  coun- 
try was  disturbed  by  the  elections,  the  officers  of  the  state  advised 
the  Arabs  to  wait,  or  come  again  when  the  king  was  elected.  I 
told  him  I had  heard  of  this  before,  but  also  heard  that  those 
Arabs  had  met  with  great  disasters,  owing  to  the  turbulence  of 
the  Masai.  To  which  he  replied,  “ That  is  true ; there  were  great 
difficulties  in  those  times,  but  now  the  Masai  country  was  in  bet- 
ter order;  and  as  Mtesa  was  most  anxious  to  open  that  line,  he 
would  give  me  as  many  men  as  I liked  if  I wished  to  go  home 
that  way.” 

This  was  pleasant  information,  but  not  quite  new,  for  the  Arabs 
had  told  me  Mtesa  was  so  anxious  to  open  that  route,  he  had  fre- 
quently offered  to  aid  them  in  it  himself.  Still  it  was  most  grati- 
fying to  myself,  as  I had  written  to  the  Geographical  Society,  on 
leaving  Bogue,  that  if  I found  Petherick  in  Uganda,  or  on  the 
northern  end  of  the  N’yanza,  so  that  the  Nile  question  was  set- 
tled, I would  endeavor  to  reach  Zanzibar  via  the  Masai  country. 
In  former  days,  I knew,  the  kings  of  Uganda  were  in  the  habit 
of  sending  men  to  Karague  when  they  heard  that  Arabs  wished 
to  visit  them — even  as  many  as  two  hundred  at  a time — to  carry 
their  kit;  so  I now  begged  Irungu  to  tell  Mtesa  that  I should 
want  at  least  sixty  men  ; and  then,  on  his  promising  he  would  be 
my  commissioner,  I gave  him  the  beads  he  had  begged  for  him- 
self. 

Mi  to  6th.  Karambule  now  told  us  to  string  our  beads  on  the 
fibre  of  the  mwale-tree,  which  was  sold  here  by  the  Wasui,  as  he 
intended  to  live  in  the  palace  for  a couple  of  days,  arranging  with 
Suwarora  what  tax  we  should  have  to  pay,  after  which  he  would 


Nov.] 


USUI. 


191 


come  and  take  it  from  us ; but  we  must  mind  and  be  ready,  for 
whatever  Stiwarora  said,  it  must  be  done  instantly.  There  was 
no  such  thing  as  haggling  with  him ; you  must  pay  and  be  off  at 
once,  failing  which,  you  might  be  detained  a whole  month  before 
there  would  be  an  opportunity  to  speak  on  the  subject  again. 
Beads  were  then  served  out  to  all  my  men  to  be  strung,  a certain 
quantity  to  every  khambi  or  mess,  and  our  work  was  progress- 
ing; but  nest  day  we  heard  that  Karambule  was  sick,  or  feign- 
ing to  be  so,  and  therefore  had  never  gone  to  the  palace  at  all. 
On  the  6th,  provoked  at  last  by  the  shameful  manner  in  which 
we  were  treated,  I sent  word  to  him  to  say,  if  he  did  not  go  at 
once  I would  go  myself,  and  force  my  way  in  with  my  guns,  for 
I could  not  submit  to  being  treated  like  a slave,  stuck  out  hei'e  in 
the  jungle  with  nothing  to  do  but  shoot  for  specimens,  or  make 
collections  of  rocks,  etc.  This  brought  on  another  row ; for  he 
said  both  Yirembo  and  Vikora  had  returned  their  hongos,  and 
until  their  tongues  were  quieted  he  could  not  speak  to  Stiwarora. 

To  expedite  matters  (7th),  as  our  daily  consumption  in  camp 
was  a tax  of  itself,  I gave  these  tormenting  creatures  one  wire, 
one  pretty  cloth,  and  five  hundred  necklaces  of  white  beads,  which 
were  no  sooner  accepted  than  Karambule,  in  the  same  way  as  Sir- 
hid  had  done,  said  it  would  be  greatly  to  my  advantage  if  I gave 
him  something  worth  having  before  he  saw  the  Mkama.  Only 
too  glad  to  begin  work,  I gave  him  a red  blanket,  called  joho,  and 
five  strings  of  mzizima  beads,  which  were  equal  to  fifty  of  the 
common  white. 

8th  and  9th.  All  this  time-  nothing  but  confusion  reigned  in 
camp,  khambi  fighting  against  khambi.  Both  men  and  women 
got  drunk,  while  from  outside  we  were  tormented  by  the  Wasui, 
both  men  and  women  pertinaciously  pressing  into  our  hut,  watch- 
ing us  eat,  and  begging  in  the  most  shameless  manner.  They 
did  not  know  the  word  bakhshish,  or  present;  but,  as  bad  as  the 
Egyptians,  they  held  out  their  hands,  patted  their  bellies,  and  said 
kaniwani  (my  friend),  until  we  were  sick  of  the  sound  of  that 
word.  Still  it  was  impossible  to  dislike  these  simple  creatures 
altogether,  they  were  such  perfect  children.  If  we  threw  water 
at  them  to  drive  them  away,  they  came  back  again,  thinking  it 
fun. 

Ten  days  now  had  elapsed  since  we  came  here,  still  nothing 
was  done  (10th),  as  Karambu.16  said,  because  Suwarora  had  been 
so  fully  occupied  collecting  an  army  to  punish  an  officer  who  had 


192 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


refused  to  pay  his  taxes,  had  ignored  his  authority,  and  had  set 
himself  up  as  a king  of  the  district  he  was  appointed  to  superin- 
tend. After  this,  at  midnight,  Karambule,  in  an  excited  manner, 
said  he  had  seen  Suwarora,  and  it  then  was  appointed  that  not 
he,  but  Virembo,  should  take  the  royal  hongo,  as  well  as  the  wa- 
hinda,  or  princes’  shares,  the  next  morning,  after  which  we  might 
go  as  fast  as  we  liked,  for  Suwarora  was  so  fully  occupied  with 
Ids  army  he  could  not  see  us  this  time.  Before,  however,  the 
hongo  could  be  paid,  I must  give  the  Sirhid  and  himself  twenty 
brass  wires,  three  joho,  three  barsati,  twenty  strings  of  mzizima, 
and  one  thousand  strings  of  white  beads.  They  were  given. 

A fearful  row  now  broke  out  between  Bombay  and  Baraka 
(11th).  Many  of  my  men  had  by  this  time  been  married,  not- 
withstanding my  prohibition.  Baraka,  for  instance,  had  with  him 
the  daughter  of  Ungurue,  chief  of  Phunzb;  Wadimoyo,  a woman 
called  Manamaka;  Sangizo,  his  wife  and  sister;  but  Bombay  had 
not  got  one,  and  mourned  for  a girl  he  had  set  his  eyes  on,  unfor- 
tunately for  himself  letting  Baraka  into  his  confidence.  This  set 
Baraka  on  the  qui  vive  to  catch  Bombay  tripping;  for  Baraka 
knew  he  could  not  get  her  without  paying  a good  price  for  her, 
and  therefore  watched  his  opportunity  to  lay  a complaint  against 
him  of  purloining  my  property,  by  which  scheme  he  would,  he 
thought,  get  Bombay’s  place  as  storekeeper  himself.  In  a sly 
manner  Bombay  employed  some  of  my  other  men  to  take  five 
wires,  a red  blanket,  and  500  strings  of  beads,  to  his  would-be 
father-in-law,  which,  by  a previously-concocted  arrangement,  was 
to  be  her  dowry  price.  These  men  did  as  they  were  bid ; but 
the  father-in-law  returned  the  things,  saying  he  must  have  one 
more  wire.  That  being  also  supplied,  the  scoundrel  wanted  more, 
and  made  so  much  fuss  about  it,  that  Baraka  became  conversant 
with  all  that  was  going  on,  and  told  me  of  it. 

This  set  the  whole  camp  in  a flame,  for  Bombay  and  Baraka 
•were  both  very  drunk,  as  well  as  most  of  the  other  men,  so  that 
it  was  with  great  difficulty  I could  get  hold  of  the  rights  of  their 
stories.  Bombay  acknowledged  he  had  tried  to  get  the  girl,  for 
they  had  been  sentimentalizing  together  for  several  days,  and  both 
alike  wished  to  be  married.  Baraka,  he  said,  was  allowed  to  keep 
a wife,  and  his  position  demanded  that  he  should  have  one  also ; 
but  the  wires  were  his  own  property,  and  not  mine,  for  he  was 
given  them  by  the  chiefs  as  a perquisite  when  I paid  their  hongo 
through  him.  He  thought  it  most  unjust  and  unfair  of  Baraka 


Nov.] 


USUI. 


193 


to  call  him  to  account  in  that  way,  but  he  was  not  surprised  at  it, 
as  Baraka,  from  the  beginning  of  the  journey  to  the  present  mo- 
ment, had  always  been  backbiting  him,  to  try  and  usurp  his  posi- 
tion. Baraka,  at  this,  somewhat  taken  aback,  said  there  was  no 
such  things  as  perquisites  on  a journey  like  this;  for  whatever 
could  be  saved  from  the  chiefs  was  for  the  common  good  of  all, 
and  all  alike  ought  to  share  in  it — repeating  words  I had  often 
expressed.  Then  Bombay  retorted,  trembling  and  foaming  in  his 
liquor:  “I  know  I shall  get  the  worst  of  it,  for  while  Baraka’s 
tongue  is  a yard  long,  mine  is  only  an  inch ; but  I would  not 
have  spent  any  wires  of  master’s  to  purchase  slaves  with  (alluding 
to  what  Baraka  had  done  at  Mihambo),  nor  would  I for  any  pur- 
pose of  making  myself  richer;  but  when  it  comes  to  a wife,  that’s 
a different  thing.” 

In  my  heart  I liked  Bombay  all  the  more  for  this  confession, 
but  thought  it  necessary  to  extol  Baraka  for  his  quickness  in 
finding  him  out,  which  drove  Bombay  nearly  wild.  He  wished 
me  to  degrade  him  if  I thought  him  dishonest ; threw  himself  on 
the  ground,  and  kissed  my  feet.  I might  thrash  him,  turn  him 
into  a porter,  or  do  any  thing  else  that  I liked  with  him,  as  long 
as  I did  not  bring  a charge  of  dishonesty  against  him.  He  could 
not  explain  himself  with  Baraka’s  long  tongue  opposed  to  him, 
but  there  were  many  deficiencies  in  my  wires  before  he  took 
overcharge  at  Bogue,  which  he  must  leave  for  settlement  till  the 
journey  was  over,  and  then,  the  whole  question  having  been  sift- 
ed at  Zanzibar,  we  would  see  who  was  the  most  honest.  I then 
counted  all  the  wires  over  at  Bombay’s  request,  and  found  them 
complete  in  numbers,  without  those  he  had  set  aside  for  the  dowrjr 
money.  Still  there  was  a doubt,  for  the  wires  might  have  been 
cut  by  him  without  detection,  as  from  the  commencement  thejr 
were  of  different  lengths.  However,  I tried  to  make  them  friends, 
claimed  all  the  wires  myself,  and  cautioned  every  man  in  the 
camp  again  that  they  were  all  losers  when  any  thing  was  misap- 
propriated ; for  I brought  this  property  to  pay  our  way  with,  and 
whatever  balance  was  over  at  the  end  of  the  journey  I would  di- 
vide among  the  whole  of  them. 

1 '2th  and  13i/i.  When  more  sober,  Bombay  again  came  to  crave 
a thousand  pardons  for  what  he  had  done,  threw  himself  down  at 
my  feet,  then  at  Grant’s,  kissed  our  toes,  swore  I was  his  Ma  Bap 
(father  and  mother) ; he  had  no  father  or  mother  to  teach  him 
better ; he  owed  all  his  prosperity  to  me ; men  must  err  some- 

N 


194 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


times ; oh,  if  I would  only  forgive  him — and  so  forth.  Then,  be- 
ing assured  that  I knew  he  never  would  have  done  as  he  had  if  a 
woman’s  attractions  had  not  led  him  astray,  he  went  to  his  work 
again  like  a man,  and  consoled  himself  by  taking  Sangizo’s  sister 
to  wife  on  credit  instead  of  the  old  love,  promising  to  pay  the 
needful  out  of  his  pay,  and  to  return  her  to  her  brother  when  the 
journey  was  over. 

In  the  evening  Yirembo  and  Karambiile  came  to  receive  the 
hongo  for  their  chief,  demanding  60  wires,  160  yards  merikani, 
300  strings  of  mzizima,  and  5000  strings  of  white  beads;  but 
they  allowed  themselves  to  be  beaten  down  to  50  wires,  20  pretty 
cloths,  100  strings  mzizima,  and  4000  kiituamnazi,  or  cocoa-nut- 
leaf  colored  beads,  my  white  being  all  done.  It  was  too  late, 
however,  to  count  all  the  things  out,  so  they  came  the  next  day 
and  took  them.  They  then  said  we  might  go  as  soon  as  we  had 
settled  with  the  Wahinda  or  Wanawami  (the  king’s  children), 
for  Siiwarora  could  not  see  us  this  time,  as  he  was  so  engaged 
with  his  army ; but  he  hoped  to  see  us  and  pay  us  more  respect 
when  we  returned  from  Uganda,  little  thinking  I had  sworn  in 
my  mind  never  to  see  him,  or  return  that  way  again.  I said  to 
those  men,  I thought  he  was  ashamed  to  see  us,  as  he  had  robbed 
us  so  after  inviting  us  into  the  country,  else  he  was  too  supersti- 
tious, for  he  ought  at  least  to  have  given  us  a place  in  his  palace. 
They  both  rebutted  the  insinuation;  and,  to  change  the  subject, 
commenced  levying  the  remaining  dues  to  the  princes,  which 
ended  by  my  giving  thirty-four  wires  and  six  pretty  cloths  in  a 
lump. 

Early  in  the  morning  we  were  on  foot  again,  only  too  thankful 

to  have  got  off  so  cheaply.  Then  men  were  ap- 

To  Kitar6, 15  tli. 

pointed  as  guides  and  protectors,  to  look  after  us  as 
far  as  the  border.  What  an  honor!  We  had  come  into  the 
country  drawn  there  by  a combination  of  pride  and  avarice,  and 
now  we  were  leaving  it  in  hot  haste  under  the  guidance  of  an  es- 
cort of  officers,  who  were  in  reality  appointed  to  watch  us  as  dan- 
gerous wizards  and  objects  of  terror.  It  was  all  the  same  to  us, 
as  we  now  only  thought  of  the  prospect  of  relief  before  ns,  and 
laughed  at  what  we  had  gone  through. 

Rising  out  of  the  Uthungu  valley,  we  walked  over  rolling 
ground,  drained  in  the  dips  by  miry  rush  rivulets.  The  popula- 
tion was  thinly  scattered  in  small  groups  of  grass  huts,  where  the 
scrub  jungle  had  been  cleared  away.  On  the  road  we  passed 


Nov.] 


USUI. 


195 


cairns,  to  which  every-  passer-by  contributed  a stone.  Of  the  ori- 
gin of  the  cairns  I could  not  gain  any  information,  though  it 
struck  me  as  curious  I should  find  them  in  the  first  country  we 
had  entered  governed  by  the  Wahuma,  as  I formerly  saw  the 
same  thing  in  the  Somali  country,  which  doubtless,  in  earlier 
days,  was  governed  by  a branch  of  the  Abyssinians.  Arrived  at 
our  camping,  we  were  immediately  pounced  upon  by  a deputa- 
tion of  officers,  who  said  they  had  been  sent  by  Semamba,  the 
officer  of  this  district.  He  lived  ten  miles  from  the  road;  but, 
hearing  of  our  approach,  he  had  sent  these  men  to  take  his  dues. 
At  first  I objected  to  pay,  lest  he  should  afterward  treat  me  as 
Virembo  had  done;  but  I gave  way  in  the  end,  and  paid  nine 
wires,  two  chintz  and  two  bindbra  cloths,  as  the  guides  said  they 
would  stand  my  security  against  any  farther  molestation. 

Eattling  on  again  as  merry  as  larks,  over  the  same  red  sand- 
To  vaembe,  stone  formation,  we  entered  a fine  forest,  and  trended 
mh • on  through  it  at  a stiff  pace  until  we  arrived  at  the 

head  of  a deep  valley  called  Lohugati,  which  was  so  beautiful  we 
instinctively  pulled  up  to  admire  it.  Deep  down  its  well-wooded 
side  below  us  was  a stream,  of  most  inviting  aspect  for  a trout- 
fisher,  flowing  toward  the  N’yanza.  Just  beyond  it  the  valley 
was  clothed  with  fine  trees  and  luxuriant  vegetation  of  all  de- 
scriptions, among  which  was  conspicuous  the  pretty  paudana 
palm,  and  rich  gardens  of  plantains,  while  thistles  of  extraordi- 
nary size  and  wild  indigo  were  the  more  common  weeds.  The 
land  beyond  that  again  rolled  back  in  high  undulations,  over 
which,  in  the  far  distance,  we  could  see  a line  of  cones,  red  and 
bare  on  their  tops,  guttered  down  with  white  streaks,  looking  for 
all  the  world  like  recent  volcanoes ; and  in  the  far  background, 
rising  higher  than  all,  were  the  rich  grassy  hills  of  Karague  and 
Kishakka. 

On  resuming  our  march,  a bird  called  khongota  flew  across  our 
path ; seeing  which,  old  Nasib,  beaming  with  joy,  in  his  supersti- 
tious belief  cried  out  with  delight,  “Ah!  look  at  that  good  omen! 
now  our  journey  will  be  sure  to  be  prosperous.”  After  fording 
the  stream,  we  sat  down  to  rest,  and  were  visited  by  all  the  in- 
habitants, who  were  more  naked  than  any  people  we  had  yet 
seen.  All  the  maidens,  even  at  the  age  of  puberty,  did  not  hesi- 
tate to  stand  boldly  in  front  of  us — for  evil  thoughts  were  not  in 
their  minds.  From  this  we  rose  over  a stony  hill  to  the  settle- 
ment of  Yihembe,  which,  being  the  last  on  the  Usui  frontier,  in- 


196 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


ducecl  me  to  give  our  guides  three  wires  each,  and  four  yards  of 
bindera,  which  Nasib  said  was  their  proper  fee.  Here  Bombay’s 
would-be,  but  disappointed  father-in-law  sent  after  us  to  say  that 
he  required  a hongo ; Suwarora  had  never  given  his  sanction  to 
our  quitting  his  country;  his  hongo  even  was  not  settled.  He 
wished,  moreover,  particularly  to  see  us;  and  if  we  did  not  re- 
turn in  a friendly  manner,  an  army  would  arrest  our  march  im- 
mediately. 


Nov.J 


KAEAGUE. 


197 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


KAEAGUE. 


Belief  from  Protectors  and  Pillagers. — The  Scenery  and  Geology.— Meeting  with 
the  friendly  King  Eumanika. — His  Hospitalities  and  Attention. — His  Services 
to  the  Expedition. — Philosophical  and  Theological  Inquiries. — The  Eoyal  Pam- 
ily  of  Karaghe. — The  M-fumbiro  Mountain. — Navigation  of  “The  Little  Winder- 
mere.” — The  New-moon  Levee. — Ehinoceros  and  Hippopotamus  Hunting. — 
Measurement  of  a fattened  Queen. — Political  Polygamy. — Christmas. — Enmors 
of  Petherick’s  Expedition. — Arrangements  to  meet  it. — March  to  Uganda. 


This  was  a day  of  relief  and  happiness.  A load  was  removed 

from  ns  in  seeing  the  "Wash!  “protectors”  depart, 

To  Vigura,  Tlth.  ...  . 1 . L ’ 

with  the  truly  cheering  information  that  we  now  had 
nothing  but  wild  animals  to  con- 
tend with  before  reaching  Kara- 
ghe.  This  land  is  “neutral,”  by 
which  is  meant  that  it  is  unten- 
anted by  human  beings;  and  we 
might  now  hope  to  bid  adieu  for 
a time  to  the  scourging  system  of 
taxation  to  which  we  had  been 
subjected. 

Gradually  descending  from  the 
spur  which  separates  the  Lohugati 
valley  from  the  bed  of  the  Lueru 
lo  Urigi,  or  Lake  of  Hrigi,  the 
track  led  ns  first  through  a mead- 
ow of  much  pleasing  beauty;  and 
then  through  a passage  between 
the  “saddle-back”  domes  we  had 

seen  from  the  heights  above  Lo-  one  of  the  wah&ma. 

hugati,  where  a new  geological 

formation  especially  attracted  my  notice.  From  the  green  slopes 
of  the  hills,  set  up  at  a slant,  as  if  the  central  line  of  pressure  on 
the  dome  top  had  weighed  on  the  inside  plates,  protruded  soft 
slabs  of  argillaceous  sandstone,  whose  laminae  presented  a beef- 
sandwich  appearance,  puce  or  purple  alternating  with  creamy- 


198 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


white.  Quartz  and  other  igneous  rocks  were  also  scattered 
about,  lying  like  superficial  accumulations  in  the  dips  at  the  foot 
of  the  hills,  and  red  sandstone  conglomerate  clearly  indicated  the 
presence  of  iron.  The  soil  itself  looked  rich  and  red,  not  unlike 
our  own  fine  county  of  Devon. 

On  arriving  in  camp  we  pitched  under  some  tre6s,  and  at  once 
were  greeted  by  an  officer  sent  by  Rumanika  to  help  us  out  of 
Usui.'  This  was  Kachuchu,  an  old  friend  of  Nasib’s,  who  no 
sooner  saw  him  than,  beaming  with  delight,  he  said  to  us,  “Now, 
was  I not  right  when  I told  you  the  birds  flying  about  on  Lohu- 
gati  Hill  were  a good  omen  ? Look  here  what  this  man  says : 
Rumanika  has  ordered  him  to  bring  you  on  to  his  palace  at  once, 
and  wherever  you  stop  a day,  the  village  officers  are  instructed 
to  supply  you  with  food  at  the  king’s  expense,  for  there  are  no 
taxes  gathered  from  strangers  in  the  kingdom  of  Karague.  Pres- 
ents may  be  exchanged,  but  the  name  of  tax  is  ignored.”  Grant 
here  shot  a rhinoceros,  which  came  well  into  play  to  mix  with 
the  day’s  flour  we  had  carried  on  from  Vihembe. 

Deluded  yesterday  by  the  sight  of  the  broad  waters  of  the 
To  First  urigi,  Ludru  lo  Urigi,  espied  in  the  distance  from  the  top 
mh-  of  a hill,  into  the  belief  that  we  were  in  view  of  the 

N’yanza  itself,  we  walked  triumphantly  along,  thinking  how  well 
the  Arabs  at  Kaze  had  described  this  to  be  a creek  of  the  great 
lake;  but  on  arrival  in  .camp  we  heard  from  the  village  officer 
that  we  had  been  misinformed,  and  that  it  was  a detached  lake, 
but  connected  with  the  Victoria  N’yanza  by  a passage  in  the  hills 
and  the  Kitangule  River.  Formerly,  he  said,  the  Urigi  valley 
was  covered  with  water,  extending  up  to  Uhha,  when  all  the  low 
lands  we  had  crossed  from  Usui  had  to  be  ferried,  and  the  saddle- 
back hills  were  a mere  chain  of  islands  in  the  water.  But  the 
country  had  dried  up,  and  the  Lake  of  Urigi  became  a small 
swamp.  He  farther  informed  us  that  even  in  the  late  King  Da- 
gara’s  time  it  was  a large  sheet  of  water,  but  the  instant  he  ceased 
to  exist  the  lake  shrank  to  what  we  now  saw. 

Our  day’s  march  had  been  novel  and  very  amusing.  The  hilly 
country  surrounding  us,  together  with  the  valley,  brought  back 
to  recollection  many  happy  days  I had  once  spent  with  the  Tar- 
tars in  the  Thibetian  valley  of  the  Indus — only  this  was  more 
picturesque  ; for,  though  both  countries  are  wild,  and  very  thinly 
inhabited,  this  was  greened  over  with  grass,  and  dotted  here  and 
there  on  the  higher  slopes  with  thick  bush  of  acacias,  the  haunts 


Nov.] 


KARAGUE. 


X 


199 


of  rhinoceros,  both  white  and  black ; while  in  the  flat  of  the  val- 
ley, herds  of  hartebeest  and  fine  cattle  roamed  about  like  the  ki- 
yang  and  tame  yak  of  Thibet.  Then,  to  enhance  all  these  pleas- 
ures, so  different  from  our  former  experiences,  we  were  treated 
like  guests  by  the  chief  of  the  place,  who,  obeying  the  orders  of 
his  king,  Rumanika,  brought  me  presents,  as  soon  as  we  arrived, 
of  sheep,  fowls,  and  sweet  potatoes,  and  was  very  thankful  for  a 
few  yards  of  red  blanketing  as  a return,  without  begging  for  more. 

The  farther  we  went  in  this  country  the  better  we  liked  it,  as 
To  second  udgi,  people  were  all  kept  in  good  order ; and  the  vil- 
mh ■ lage  chiefs  were  so  civil  that  we  could  do  as  we  liked. 

After  following  down  the  left  side  of  the  valley  and  entering  the 
village,  the  customary  presents  and  returns  were  made.  Wishing 
then  to  obtain  a better  view  of  the  country,  I strolled  over  the 
nearest  hills,  and  found  the  less  exposed  slopes  well  covered  with 
trees.  Small  antelopes  occasionally  sprang  up  from  the  grass.  I 
shot  a florikan  for  the  pot ; and  as  I had  never  before  seen  white 
rhinoceros,  killed  one  now ; though,  as  no  one  would  eat  him,  I 
felt  sorry  rather  than  otherwise  for  what  I had  done.  When  I 
returned  in  the  evening,  small  boys  brought  me  sparrows  for 
sale  ; and  then  I remembered  the  stories  I had  heard  from  Musa 
Mzuri,  that  in  the  whole  of  Karague  these  small  birds  were  so 
numerous,  the  people,  to  save  themselves  from  starvation,  were 
obliged  to  grow  a bitter  corn  which  the  birds  disliked ; and  so  I 
found  it.  At  night,  while  observing  for  latitude,  I was  struck  by 
surprise  to  see  a long,  noisy  procession  pass  by  where  I sat,  led  by 
some  men  who  carried  on  their  shoulders  a woman  covered  up  in 
a blackened  skin.  On  inquiry,  however,  I heard  she  was  being- 
taken  to  the  hut  of  her  espoused,  where,  “bundling  fashion,”  she 
would  be  put  in  bed ; but  it  was  only  with  virgins  they  took  so 
much  trouble. 

A strange  but  characteristic  story  now  reached  my  ears.  Ma- 
sudi,  the  merchant  who  took  up  Insangez,  had  been  trying  his 
best  to  deter  Rumanika  from  allowing  us  to  enter  his  country  by 
saying  we  were  addicted  to  sorcery ; and  had  it  not  been  for  Insan- 
gez’s  remonstrances,  who  said  we  were  sent  up  by  Musa,  our  fate 
would  have  been  doubtful.  Rumanika,  it  appeared,  as  I always 
had  heard,  considered  old  Musa  his  savior  for  having  eight  years 
before  quelled  a rebellion,  when  his  younger  brother,  Rogero,  as- 
pired to  the  throne,  while  Musa’s  honor  and  honesty  were  quite 
unimpeachable.  But  more  of  this  hereafter. 


200 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


Khonzd,  the  next  place,  lying  in  the  bending  concave  of  this 
t ki  6 20  / swamP  anci  facing  Hangiro,  was  commanded  by 
a fine  elderly  man  called  Muzegi,  who  was  chief  of- 
ficer during  Dagara’s  time.  He  told  me,  with  the  greatest  pos- 
sible gravity,  that  he  remembered  well  the  time  when  a boat 
could  have  gone  from  this  to  Yigiira,  as  also  when  fish  and  croco- 
diles came  up  from  the  Kitangule ; but  the  old  king  no  sooner 
died  than  the  waters  dried  up,  which  showed  as  plainly  as  words 
could  tell  that  the  king  had  designed  it,  to  make  men  remember 
him  with  sorrow  in  all  future  ages.  Our  presents  after  this  hav- 
ing been  exchanged,  the  good  old  man,  at  my  desire,  explained 
the  position  of  all  the  surrounding  countries,  in  his  own  peculiar 
manner,  by  laying  a long  stick  on  the  ground  pointing  due  north 
and  south,  to  which  he  attached  shorter  ones  pointing  to  the  cen- 
tre of  each  distant  country.  He  thus  assisted  me  in  the  protrac- 
tions of  the  map  to  the  countries  which  lie  east  and  west  of  the 
route. 

Shortly  after  starting  this  morning  we  were  summoned  by  the 
To  Camp  Knve-  last  officer  on  the  Urigi  to  take  breakfast  with  him, 
ra,2isf.  as  pe  cou]c|  not  allow  us  to  pass  by  without  paying 

his  respects  to  the  king’s  guests.  He  was  a man  of  most  affable 
manners,  and  loth  we  should  part  company  without  one  night’s 
entertainment  at  least;  but,  as  it  was  a matter  of  necessity,  he 
gave  us  provisions  to  eat  on  the  way,  adding,  at  the  same  time,  he 
was  .sorry  he  could  not  give  more,  as  a famine  was  then  oppress- 
ing the  land.  We  parted  with  reiterated  compliments  on  both 
sides;  and  shortly  after,  diving  into  the  old  bed  of  the  Urigi, 
were  constantly  amused  with  the  variety  of  game  which  met  our 
view.  On  several  occasions  the  rhinoceros  were  so  numerous 
and  impudent  as  to  contest  the  right  of  the  road  with  us,  and  the 
greatest  sport  was  occasioned  by  our  bold  Wan guana  going  at 
them  in  parties  of  threes  and  fours,  when,  taking  good  care  of 
themselves  at  considerable  distances,  they  fired  their  carbines  all 
together,  and  while  the  rhinoceros  ran  one  way,  they  ran  the  oth- 
er. While  we  were  pitching  our  tents  after  sunset  by  some  pools 
on  the  plain,  Dr.  K’yengo  arrived  with  the  hongo  of  brass  and 
copper  wires  sent  by  Suwarora  for  the  great  king  Mtesa,  in  lieu 
of  his  daughter  who  died ; so  next  morning  we  all  marched  to- 
gether on  to  Uthenga. 

Rising  out  of  the  bed  of  the  Urigi,  we  passed  over  a low  spur 
of  beef-sandwich  clay  sandstones,  and  descended  into  the  close, 


Nov.] 


KAEAGUE. 


201 


rich  valley  of  Uthenga,  bound  in  by  steep  bills  hann- 

To  Uthenga,  22d.  . J ° ,,  , 1.  , 

mg  over  us  more  than  a thousand  leet  high,  as  pret- 
tily clothed  as  the  mountains  of  Scotland ; while  in  the  valley 
there  were  not  only  magnificent  trees  of  extraordinary  ^height,  but 
also  a surprising  amount  of  the  richest  cultivation,  among  which 
the  banana  may  be  said  to  prevail.  Notwithstanding  this  appar- 
ent richness  of  the  land,  the  Wanyambo,  living  in  their  small 
squalid  huts,  seem  poor.  The  tobacco  they  smoke  is  imported 
from  the  coffee-growing  country  of  Uhaiya.  After  arrival  in  the 
village,  who  should  we  see  but  the  Uganda  officer  Irungu ! The 
scoundrel,  instead  of  going  on  to  Uganda  as  he  had  promised  to 
do,  conveying  my  present  to  Mtesa,  had  stopped  here  plundering 
the  "Wanyambo,  and  getting  drunk  on  their  pombe,  called,  in 
their  lans;uaa;e,  marwa — a delicious  kind  of  wine  made  from  the 
banana.  He,  of  course,  begged  for  more  beads ; but,  not  able  to 
trick  me  again,  set  his  drummers  and  lifers  at  work,  in  hopes  that 
he  would  get  over  our  feelings  in  that  way. 

Henceforth,  as  we  marched,  Irungii’s  drummers  and  lifers  kept 

us  alive  on  the  way.  This  we  heard  was  a privilege 

To  Rozoka  23d.  J ± ° 

that  Uganda  Wakungu  enjoyed  both  at  home  and 
abroad,  although  in  all  other  countries  the  sound  of  the  drum  is 
considered  a notice  of  war,  unless  where  it  happens  to  accompany 
a dance  or  festival.  Leaving  the  valley  of  Uthenga,  we  rose  over 
the  spur  of  iSPyamwara,  where  we  found  we  had  attained  the  de- 
lightful altitude  of  5000  odd  feet.  Oh,  how  we  enjoyed  it!  every 
one  feeling  so  happy  at  the  prospect  of  meeting  so  soon  the  good 
king  Rumanika.  Tripping  down  the  greensward,  we  now  work- 
ed our  way  to  the  Rozoka  valley,  and  pitched  our  tents  in  the 
village. 

Kachuchu  here  told  us  he  had  orders  to  precede  us,  and  pre- 
pare Rumanika  for  our  coming,  as  his  king  wished  to  know  what 
place  we  would  prefer  to  live  at  — the  Arab  depot  at  Kufro,  on 
the  direct  line  to  Uganda,  in  his  palace  with  himself,  or  outside 
his  inclosures.  Such  politeness  rather  took  us  aback ; so,  giving 
our  friend  a coil  of  copper  wire  to  keep  him  in  good  spirits,  I 
said  all  our  pleasure  rested  in  seeing  the  king;  whatever  honors 
he  liked  to  confer  on  us  we  should  take  with  good  grace,  but  one 
thing  he  must  understand,  we  came  not  to  trade,  but  to  see  him 
and  great  kings,  and  therefore  the  Arabs  had  no  relations  with 
us.  This  little  point  settled,  off  started  Kachuchu  in  his  usual 
merry  manner,  while  I took  a look  at  the  hills  to  see  their  geo- 


202 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


logical  formation,  and  found  them  much  as  before,  based  on  streaky 
clay  sandstones,  with  the  slight  addition  of  pure  blue  shales,  and 
above  sections  of  quartzose  sandstone  lying  in  flags,  as  well  as 
other  metamorphic  and  igneous  rocks  scattered  about. 

Moving  on  the  next  morning  over  hill  and  dale,  we  came  to 
to Katawanga  the  junction  of  two  roads,  where  Irungu,  with  his 
mh-  drummers,  lifers,  and  amazon  followers,  took  one  way 

to  Kufro,  followed  by  the  men  carrying  Siiwarora’s  hongo,  and 
we  led  off  on  the  other,  directed  to  the  palace.  The  hill-tops  in 
many  places  were  breasted  with  dikes  of  pure  white  quartz,  just 
as  we  had  seen  in  Usui,  only  that  here  their  direction  tended 
more  to  the  north.  It  was  most  curious  to  contemplate,  seeing 
that  the  chief  substance  of  the  hills  was  a pure  blue,  or  otherwise 
streaky  clay  sandstone,  which  must  have  been  formed  when  the 
land  was  low,  but  has  now  been  elevated,  making  these  hills  the 
axis  of  the  centre  of  the  continent,  and  therefore  probably  the 
oldest  of  all. 

When  within  a few  miles  of  the  palace  we  were  ordered  to  stop 
and  wait  for  Kachuchu’s  return ; but  we  no  sooner  put  up  in  a 
plantain  grove,  where  pombe  was  brewing,  and  our  men  were  all 
taking  a suck  at  it,  than  the  worthy  arrived  to  call  us  on  the  same 
instant,  as  the  king  was  most  anxious  to  see  us.  The  love  of 
good  beer  of  course  made  our  men  all  too  tired  to  march  again ; 
so.I  sent  off  Bombay  with  Nasib  to  make  our  excuses,  and  in  the 
evening  found  them  returning  with  a huge  pot  of  pombe  and 
some  royal  tobacco,  which  Bumanika  sent  with  a notice  that  he 
intended  it  exclusively  for  our-  own  use ; for,  though  there  was 
abundance  for  my  men,  there  was  nothing  so  good  as  what  came 
from  the  palace;  the  royal  tobacco  was  as  sweet  and  strong  as 
honey-dew,  and  the  beer  so  strong  it  required  a strong  man  to 
drink  it. 

After  breakfast  next  morning  we  crossed  the  hill-spur  called 
To  weranhanjo,  Weranhanje,  the  grassy  tops  of  which  were  5500  feet 
-5th-  above  the  sea.  Descending  a little,  we  came  sudden- 

ly in  view  of  what  appeared  to  us  a rich  clump  of  trees,  in  S.  lat. 
1°  42'  42",  and  E.  long.  31°  1'  49";  and,  500  feet  below  it,  we 
saw  a beautiful  sheet  of  water  lying  snugly  within  the  folds  of  the 
hills.  We  were  not  altogether  unprepared  for  it,  as  Musa  of  old 
had  described  it,  and  Bombay,  on  his  return  yesterday,  told  us  he 
had  seen  a great  pond.  The  clump,  indeed,  was  the  palace  in- 
closure. As  to  the  lake,  for  want  of  a native  name,  I christened 


Nov.] 


KARAGUE. 


203 


it  the  Little  Windermere,  because  Grant  thought  it  so  like  our 
own  English  lake  of  that  name.  It  was  one  of  many  others 
which,  like  that  of  Urigi,  drains  the  moisture  of  the  overhanging 
hills,  and  gets  drained  into  the  Victoria  N’yanza  through  the  Ki- 
tangule  Eiver. 

To  do  royal  honors  to  the  king  of  this  charming  land,  I ordered 
my  men  to  put  down  their  loads  and  fire  a volley.  This  was  no 
sooner  done  than,  as  we  went  to  the  palace  gate,  we  received  an 
invitation  to  come  in  at  once,  for  the  king. wished  to  see  us  before 
attending  to  any  thing  else.  Now,  leaving  our  traps  outside,  both 
Grant  and  myself,  attended  by  Bombay  and  a few  of  the  seniors 
of  my  Wanguana,  entered  the  vestibule,  and,  walking  through 
extensive  inclosures  studded  with  huts  of  kingly  dimensions,  were 
escorted  to  a pent-roofed  baraza,  which  the  Arabs  had  built  as  a 
sort  of  government  office,  where  the  king  might  conduct  his  state 
affairs. 

Here,  as  we  entered,  we  saw  sitting  cross-legged  on  the  ground 
Rumanika  the  king,  and  his  brother  Nnanaji,  both  of  them  men 
of  noble  appearance  and  size.  The  king  was  plainly  dressed  in 
an  Arab’s  black  ckoga,  and  wore,  for  ornament,  dress-stockings 
of  rick-colored.  beads,.  and  neatly  - worked  wristlets  of  copper. 
Nnanaji,  being  a doctor  of  very  high  pretensions,  in  addition  to  a 
check  cloth  wrapped  round  him,  was  covered  with  charms.  At 
their  sides  lay  huge  pipes  of  black  clay.  In  their  rear,  squatting 
quiet  as  mice,  were  all  the  king’s  sons,  some  six  or  seven  lads, 
who  wore  leather  middle-coverings,  and  little  dream-charms  tied 
under  their  chins.  The  first  greetings  of  the  king,  delivered  in 
good  Kisuakili,  were  warm  and  affecting,  and  in  an  instant  we 
both  felt  and  saw  we  were  in  the  company  of  men  who  were  as 
unlike  as  they  could  be  to  ike  common  order  of  the  natives  of 
the  surrounding  districts,  They  had  fine  oval  faces,  large  eyes, 
and  high  noses,  denoting  the  best  blood  of  Abyssinia.  Having 
shaken  hands  in  true  English  style,  which  is  the  peculiar  custom 
of  the  men  of  this  country,  the  ever-smiling  Rumanika  begged  us 
to  be  seated  on  the  ground  opposite  to  him,  and  at  once  wished  to 
know  what  we  thought  of  Karague,  for  it  had  struck  him  his 
mountains  were  the  finest  in  the  world ; and  the  lake,  too,  did  we 
not  admire  it?  Then  laughing,  he  inquired — for  he  knew  all  the 
story — what  we  thought  of  Suwarora,  and  the  reception  we  had 
met  with  in  Usui.  "When  this  was  explained  to  him,  I showed 
him  that  it  was  for  the  interest  of  his  own  kingdom  to  keep  a 


204 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861 


check  on  Suwarora,  whose  exorbitant  taxations  prevented  the 
Arabs  from  coming  to  see  him  and  bringing  things  from  all  parts 
of  the  world.  He  made  inquiries  for  the  purpose  of  knowing 
how  we  found  our  way  all  over  the  world ; for  on  the  former  ex- 
pedition a letter  had  come  to  him  for  Musa,  who  no  sooner  read 
it  than  he  said  I had  called  him  and  he  must  leave,  as  I was  bound 
for  Ujiji. 

This  of  course  led  to  a long  story,  describing  the  world,  the 
proportions  of  land  and  water,  and  the  power  of  ships,  which  con- 
veyed even  elephants  and  rhinoceros — in  fact,  all  the  animals  in 
the  world — to  fill  our  menageries  at  home,  etc.,  etc.,  as  well  as 
the  strange  announcement  that  we  lived  to  the  northward,  and 
had  only  come  this  way  because  his  friend  Musa  had  assured  me 
without  doubt  that  he  would  give  us  the  road  on  through  Ugan- 
da. Time  flew  like  magic,  the  king’s  mind  was  so  quick  and  in- 
quiring ; but  as  the  day  was  wasting  away,  he  generously  gave 
us  our  option  to  choose  a place  for  our  residence  in  or  out  of  his 
palace,  and  allowed  us  time  to  select  one.  We  found  the  view 
overlooking  the  lake  to  be  so  charming,  that  we  preferred  camp- 
ing outside,  and  set  our  men  at  once  to  work  cutting  sticks  and 
long  grass  to  erect  themselves  sheds. 


Our  Camp  outside  the  Palace. 


Nov.] 


KARAGUE. 


205 


One  of  the  young  princes — for  the  king  ordered  them  all  to  be 
constantly  in  attendance  on  us — happening  to  see  me  sit  on  an 
iron  chair,  rushed  back  to  his  father  and  told  him  about  it.  This 
set  all  the  royals  in  the  palace  in  a state  of  high  wonder,  and  end- 
ed by  my  getting  a summons  to  show  off  the  white  man  sitting 
on  his  throne ; for  of  course  I could  only  be,  as  all  of  them  called 
me,  a king  of  great  dignity,  to  indulge  in  such  state.  Rather  re- 
luctantly I did  as  I was  bid,  and  allowed  myself  once  more  to  be 
dragged  into  court.  Rumanika,  as  gentle  as  ever,  then  burst  into 
a fresh  fit  of  merriment,  and  after  making  sundry  enlightened  re- 
marks of  inquiry,  which  of  course  were  responded  to  with  the 
greatest  satisfaction,  finished  off  by  saying,  with  a very  expressive 
shake  of  the  head,  “Oh,  these  Wazungu,  these  Wazungu!  they 
know  and  do  every  thing.”  ! 

I then'pulTin  a word  for  myself.  Since  we  had  entered  Kara- 
gue  we  never  could  get  one  drop  of  milk  either  for  love  or  for 
money,  and  I wished  to  know  what  motive  the  W ahum  a had  for 
withholding  it.  We  had  heard  they  held  superstitious  dreads, 
that  any  one  who  ate  the  flesh  of  pigs,  fish,  or  fowls,  or  the  bean 
called  maharague,  if  he  tasted  the  products  of  their  cows,  would 
destroy  their  cattle,  and  I hoped  he  did  not  labor  under  any  such 
absurd  delusions.  To  which  he  replied,  It  was  only  the  poor  who 
thought  so ; and  as  he  now  saw  we  were  in  want,  he  would  set 
apart  one  of  his  cows  expressly  for  our  use.  On  bidding  adieu, 
the  usual  formalities  of  hand-shaking  were  gone  through ; and  on 
entering  camp,  I found  the  good  thoughtful  king  had  sent  us  some 
more  of  his  excellent  beer. 

The  Wanguana  were  now  all  in  the  highest  of  good-humor; 
for  time  after  time  goats  and  fowls  were  brought  into  camp  by 
the  officers  of  the  king,  who  had  received  orders  from  all  parts 
of  the  country  to  bring  in  supplies  for  his  guests ; and  this  kind 
of  treatment  went  on  for  a month,  though  it  did  not  diminish  my 
daily  expenditure  of  beads,  as  grain  and  plantains  were  not  enough 
thought  of.  The  cold  winds,  however,  made  the  coast-men  all 
shiver,  and  suspect,  in  their  ignorance,  we  must  be  drawing  close 
to  England,  the  only  cold  place  they  had  heard  of. 

26/A.-  Hearing  it  would  be  considered  indecent  haste  to  present 
my  tributary  offering  at  once,  I paid  my  morning’s  visit,  only  tak- 
ing my  revolving  pistol,  as  I knew  Rumanika  had  expressed  a 
strong  wish  to  see  it.  The  impression  it  made  was  surprising — 
he  had  never  seen  such  a thing  in  his  life ; so,  in  return  for  his 


206 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


great  generosity,  as  well  as  to  show  I placed  no  value  on  property, 
not  being  a merchant,  I begged  him  to  accept  it.  We  then  ad- 
journed to  his  private  hut,  which  rather  surprised  me  by  the  neat- 
ness with  which  it  was  kept.  The  roof  was  supported  by  numer- 
ous clean  poles,  to  which  he  had  fastened  a large  assortment  of 
spears  — brass-headed  with  iron  handles,  and  iron-headed  with 
wooden  ones  — of  excellent  workmanship.  A large  standing- 
screen,  of  fine  straw-plait  work,  in  elegant  devices,  partitioned  off 
one  part  of  the  room ; and  on  the  opposite  side,  as  mere  orna- 
ments, were  placed  a number  of  brass  grapnels  and  small  models 
of  cows,  made  in  iron  for  his  amusement  by  the  Arabs  at  Kufro. 
A little  later  in  the  day,  as  soon  as  we  had  done  breakfast,  both 
Rumanika  and  Nnanaji  came  over  to  pay  us  a visit;  for  they 
thought,  as  we  could  find  our  way  all  over  the  world,  so  we  should 
not  find  much  difficulty  in  prescribing  some  magic  charms  to  kill 
his  brother,  Rogero,  who  lived  on  a hill  overlooking  the  Kitan- 
gulb.  Seating  them  both  on  our  chairs,  which  amused  them  in- 
tensely, I asked  Rumanika,  although  I had  heard  before  the  whole 
facts  of  the  case,  what  motives  now  induced  him  to  wish  the  com- 
mittal of  such  a terrible  act,  and  brought  out  the  whole  story 
afresh. 

Before  their  old  father  Dagara  died,  he  had  unwittingly  said  to 
the  mother  of  Rogero,  although  he  was  the  youngest  born,  what 
a fine  king  he  would  make ; and  the  mother,  in  consequence,  tu- 
tored her  son  to  expect  the  command  of  the  country,  although  the 
law  of  the  land  in  the  royal  family  is  the  primogeniture  system, 
extending,  however,  only  to  those  sons  who  are  born  after  the  ac- 
cession of  the  king  to  the  throne. 

As  soon,  therefore,  as  Dagara  died,  leaving  the  three  sons  al- 
luded to,  all  by  different  mothers,  a contest  took  place  with  the 
brothers,  which,  as  Nnanaji  held  by  Rumanika,  ended  in  the  two 
elder  driving  Rogero  away.  It  happened,  however,  that  half  the 
men  of  the  country,  either  from  fear  or  love,  attached  themselves 
to  Rogero.  Feeling  his  power,  he  raised  an  army  and  attempted 
to  fight  for  the  crown,  which  it  is  generally  admitted  would  have 
succeeded,  had  not  Musa,  with  unparalleled  magnanimity,  employ- 
ed all  the  ivory  merchandise  at  his  command  to  engage  the  serv- 
ices of  all  the  Arabs’  slaves  residing  at  Kufro  to  bring  muskets 
against  him.  Rogero  was  thus  frightened  away ; but  he  went 
swearing  that  he  would  carry  out  his  intentions  at  some  future 
date,  when  the  Arabs  had  withdrawn  from  the  country. 


Nov.] 


KARAGUE. 


207 


Magic  charms,  of  course,  we  had  none ; but  the  king  would  not 
believe  it,  and,  to  wheedle  some  out  of  us,  said  they  would  not 
kill  their  brother  even  if  they  caught  him — for  fratricide  was  con- 
sidered an  unnatural  crime  in  their  country — but  they  would 
merely  gouge  out  his  eyes  and  set  him  at  large  again,  for  without 
the  power  of  sight  he  could  do  them  no  harm. 

I then  recommended,  as  the  best  advice  I could  give  him  for 
the  time  being,  to  take  some  strong  measures  against  Suwarora 
and  the  system  of  taxation  carried  on  in  Usui.  These  would  have 
the  effect  of  bringing  men  with  superior  knowledge  into  the  coun- 
tryr,  for  it  was  only  through  the  power  of  knowledge  that  good 
government  could  be  obtained.  Suwarora  at  present  stopped 
eight  tenths  of  the  ivory-merchants  who  might  be  inclined  to 
trade  here  from  coming  into  the  country,  by  the  foolish  system 
of  excessive  taxation  he  had  established.  Next  I told  him,  if  Ee~~ 
would  give  me  one  or  two  of  his  children,  I would  have  them  in- 
structed in  England ; for  I admired  his  race,  and  believed  them 
to  have  sprung  from  our  old  friends  the  Abyssinians,  whose  king, 
Sahela  Selassie,  had  received  rich  presents  from  our  queen.  They 
were  Christians  like  ourselves,  and  had  the  Wahuma  not  lost  their, 
knowledge  of  God  they  would  be  so  also. 

A long  theological  and  historical  discussion  ensued,  which  so 
pleased  the  king  that  he  said  he  would  be  delighted  if  I would 
take  two  of  his  sons  to  England,  that  they  might  bring  him  a 
knowledge  of  every  thing.  Then  turning  again  to  the  old  point, 
his  utter  amazement  that  we  should  spend  so  much  property  in 
traveling,  he  wished  to  know  what  we  did  it  for ; when  men  had 
such  means  they  would  surely  sit  down  and  enjoy  it.  “Oh  no,” 
was  the  reply ; “ we  have  had  our  fill  of  the  luxuries  of  life ; eat- 
ing, drinking,  oUsleeping  have  no  charms  for  us-  now;  we  are 
above  trade,  therefore  require  no  profits,  and  seek  for  enjoyment 
the  run  of  the  world.  To  observe  and  admire  the  beauties  of 
creation  are  worth  much  more  than  beads  to  us.  But  what  led 
us  this  way  we  have  told  you  before;  it  was  to  see  your  majesty 
in  particular,  and  the  great  kings  of  Africa,  and  at  the  same  time 
to  open  another  road  to  the  north,  whereby  the  best  manufactures 
of  Europe  would  find  their  way  to  Karague,  and  you  would  get 
so  many  more  guests.”  In  the  highest  good-humor  the  king  said, 
“As  you  have  come  to  see  me  and  see  sights,  I will  order  some 
boats  and  show  you  over  the  lake,  with  musicians  to  play  before 
you,  or  any  thing  else  that  you  like.”  Then,  after  looking  over 


208  the  source  of  the  rile.  [lsei. 

our  pictures  with  intensest  delight,  and  admiring  our  beds,  boxes, 
and  outfit  in  general,  he  left  for  the  day. 

In  the  afternoon,  as  I had  heard  from  Musa  that  the  wives  of 
the  king  and  princes  were  fattened  to  such  an  extent  that  they 
could  not  stand  upright,  I paid  my  respects  to  Wazezeru,  the 
king’s  eldest  brother — who,  having  been  born  before  his  father 
ascended  his  throne,  did  not  come  in  the  line  of  succession— with 
the  hope  of  being  able  to  see  for  myself  the  truth  of  the  story. 
There  was  no  mistake  about  it.  On  entering  the  hut,  I found 
the  old  man  and  his  chief  wife  sitting  side  by  side  on  a bench  of 
earth  strewed  over  with  grass,  and  partitioned  like  stalls  for  sleep- 
ing apartments,  while  in  front  of  them  were  placed  numerous 
wooden  pots  of  milk,  and,  hanging  from  the  poles  that  supported 
the  beehive-shaped  hut,  a large  collection  of  bows  six  feet  in 
length,  while  below  them  were  tied  an  even  larger  collection  of 
spears,  intermixed  with  a goodly  assortment  of  heavy-handed 
assegais.  I was  struck  with  no  small  surprise  at  the  way  he  re- 
ceived me,  as  well  as  with  the  extraordinary  dimensions,  yet 
pleasing  beauty,  of  the  immoderately  fat  fair  one  his  wife.  She 
could  not  rise ; and  so  large  were  her  arms  that  between  the 
joints  the  flesh  hung  down  like  large,  loose -stuffed  puddings. 
Then  in  came  their  children,  all  models  of  the  Abyssinian  type 
of  beauty,  and  as  polite  in  their  manners  as  thorough-bred  gen- 
tlemen. They  had  heard  of  my  picture-books  from  the  king,  and 
all  wished  to  see  them;  which  they  no  sooner  did,  to  their  infinite 
delight,  especially  when  they  recognized  any  of  the  animals,  than 
the  subject  was  turned  by  my  inquiring  what  they  did  with  so 
many  milk-pots.  This  was  easily  explained  by  Wazezeru  him- 
self, who,  pointing  to  his  wife,  said,  “ This  is  all  the  product  of 
those  pots:  from  early  youth  upward  we  keep  those  pots  to  their 
mouths,  as  it  is  the  fashion  at  court  to  have  very  fat  wives.” 

27 th.  Ever  anxious  to  push  on  with  the  journey,  as  I felt  every 
day’s  delay  only  tended  to  diminish  my  means — -that  is,  my  beads 
and  copper  wire — I instructed  Bombay  to  take  the  under-men- 
tioned articles  to  Bumanika  as  a small  sample  of  the  products  of 
my  country  ;*  to  say  I felt  quite  ashamed  of  their  being  so  few 
and  so  poor,  but  I hoped  he  would  forgive  my  shortcomings,  as 
he  knew  I had  been  so  often  robbed  on  the  way  to  him ; and  I 

* Bumanika' s present. — One  block -tin  box,  one  Raglan  coat,  five  yards  scarlet 
broadcloth,  two  coils  copper  wire,  a hundred  large  blue  egg-beads,  five  bundles  best 
variegated  beads,  three  bundles  minute  beads — pink,  blue,  and  white. 


Nov.] 


KARAGUE. 


209 


trusted,  in  recollection  of  Musa,  he  would  give  me  leave  to  go  on 
to  Uganda,  for  every  day’s  delay  was  consuming  my  supplies. 
Nnanaji,  however,  it  was  said,  should  get  something;  so,  in  ad- 
dition to  the  king’s  present,  I apportioned  one  out  for  him,  and 
Bombay  took  both  up  to  the  palace.*  Every  body,  I was  pleased 
to  hear,  was  surprised  with  both  the  quantity  and  quality  of  what 
I had  been  able  to  find  for  them ; for,  after  the  plundering  in 
Ugogo,  the  immense  consumption  caused  by  such  long  delays  on 
the  road,  the  fearful  prices  I had  had  to  pay  for  my  porters’  wages, 
the  enormous  taxes  I had  been  forced  to  give  both  in  Msalala 
and  Uzinza,  besides  the  constant  thievings  in  camp,  all  of  which 
was  made  public  by  the  constantly-recurring  tales  of  my  men,  no- 
body thought  I had  got  any  thing  left. 

Rumanika,  above  all,  was  as  delighted  as  if  he  had  come  in  for 
a fortune,  and  sent  to  say  the  Raglan  coat  was  a marvel,  and  the 
scarlet  broadcloth  the  finest  thing  he  had  ever  seen.  Nobody 
but  Musa  had  ever  given  him  such  beautiful  beads  before,  and 
none  ever  gave  with  such  free  liberality.  Whatever  I wanted  I 
should  have  in  return  for  it,  as  it  was  evident  to  him  I had  really 
done  him  a great  honor  in  visiting  him.  Neither  his.  father  nor 
any  of  his  forefathers  had  had  such  a great  favor  shown  them. 
He  was  alarmed,  he  confessed,  when  he  heard  we  were  coming  to 
visit  him,  thinking  we  might  prove  some  fearful  monsters  that 
were  not  quite  human,  but  now  he  was  delighted  beyond  all 
measure  with  what  he  saw  of' us.  A messenger  should  be  sent 
atTonce  to  the  King  of  Uganda  to  inform  him  of  our  intention  to 
visit  him,  with  his  own  favorable  report  of  us.  This  was  neces- 
sary according  to  the  etiquette  of  the  country.  Without  such  a 
recommendation  our  progress  would  be  stopped  by  the  people, 
while  with  one  word  from  him  all  would  go  straight ; for  was  he 
not  the  gatekeeper,  enjoying  the  full  confidence  of  Uganda?  A 
month,  however,  must  elapse,  as  the  distance  to  the  palace  of 
Uganda  was  great;  but,  in  the  mean  time,  he  would  give  me 
leave  to  go  about  in  his  country  to  do  and  see  what  I liked, 
Nnanaji  and  his  sons  escorting  me  every  where.  Moreover,  when 
the  time  came  for  my  going  on  to  Uganda,  if  I had  not  enough 
presents  to  give  the  king,  he  would  fill  up  the  complement  from 
his  own  stores,  and  either  go  with  me  himself,  or  send  Nnanaji  to 

* Nnanaji' s present. — One  deole  or  gold-embroidered  silk,  two  coils  copper  wire, 
fifty  large  blue  egg-beads,  five  bundles  best  variegated  beads,  three  bundles  minute 
beads — pink,  blue,  and  white. 


0 


210 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


conduct  me  as  far  as  the  boundary  of  Uganda,  in  order  that  Ro- 
gbro  might  not  molest  us  on  the  way.  In  the  evening,  Masudi, 
with  Sangoro  and  several  other  merchants,  came  up  from  Kufro 
to  pay  us  a visit  of  respect. 

28 th  and  29 th.  A gentle  hint  having  come  to  us  that  the  king’s 
brother,  Wazezeru,  expected  a trifle  in  virtue  of  his  rank,  I sent 
him  a blanket  and  seventy-five  blue  egg-beads.  These  were  ac- 
cepted with  the  usual  good  grace  of  these  people.  The  king  then, 
ever  attentive  to  our  position  as  guests,  sent  his  royal  musicians 


Musicians. 


to  give  us  a tune.  The  men  composing  the  band  were  a mixture 
of  Waganda  and  Wanyambo,  who  played  on  reed  instruments 
made  telescope  fashion,  marking  time  by  hand-drums.  At  first 
they  marched  up  and  down,  playing  tnnes  exactly  like  the  regi- 
mental bands  of  the  Turks,  and  then  commenced  dancing  a 
species  of  “ hornpipe,”  blowing  furiously  all  the  while.  When 
dismissed  with  some  beads,  Unanaji  dropped  in  and  invited  me 
to  accompany  him  out  shooting  on  the  slopes  of  the  hills  over- 
looking the  lake.  He  had  in  attendance  all  the  king’s  sons,  as 
well  as  a large  number  of  beaters,  with  three  or  four  dogs.  Trip- 
ping down  the  greensward  of  the  hills  together,  these  tall,  athletic 
princes  every  now  and  then  stopped  to  see  who  could  shoot  far- 
thest, and  I must  say  I never  witnessed  better  feats  in  my  life. 
With  powerful  six-feet-long  bows,  they  pulled  their  arrows’  heads 
up  to  the  wood,  and  made  wonderful  shots  in  the  distance.  They 
then  placed  me  in  position,  and,  arranging  the  field,  drove  the 
covers  like  men  well  accustomed  to  sport — indeed,  it  struck  me 


Nov.] 


KARAGUE. 


211 


they  indulged  too  much  in  that  pleasure,  for  we  saw  nothing  but 
two  or  three  montana  and  some  diminutive  antelopes,  about  the 
size  of  mouse  deer,  and  so  exceedingly  shy  that  not  one  was 
bagged. 

Returning  home  to  the  tents  as  the  evening  sky  was  illumined 
with  the  red  glare  of  the  sun,  my  attention  was  attracted  by  ob- 
serving in  the  distance  some  bold  sky-scraping  cones  situated  in 
the  country  Ruanda,  which  at  once  brought  back  to  recollection 
the  ill-defined  story  I had  heard  from  the  Arabs  of  a wonderful 
hill  always  covered  with  clouds,  on  which  snow  or  hail  was  con- 
stantly falling.  This  was  a valuable  discovery,  for  I found  these 
hills  to  be  the  great  turn-point  of  the  Central  African  watershed. 
Without  loss  of  time  I set  to  work,  and,  gathering  all  the  travel- 
ers I could  in  the  country,  protracted,  from  their  descriptions,  all 
the  distant  topographical  features  set  down  in  the  map,  as  far 
north  as  8°  of  north  latitude,  as  far  east  as  36°,  and  a£  far  west  as 
26°  of  east  longitude  ; only  afterward  slightly  corrected,  as  I was 
better  able  to  connect  and  clear  up  some  trifling  but  doubtful 
points. 

Indeed,  I was  not  only  surprised  at  the  amount  of  information 
about  distant  places  I was  enabled  to  get  here  from  these  men, 


View  of  Mount  Mfumbiro  and  Drainage  System  of  the  Lunas  Montes, 
taken  from  a height  of  5500  feet. 


212 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


but  also  at  the  correctness  of  their  vast  and  varied  knowledge,  as 
I afterward  tested  it  by  observation  and  the  statements  of  others. 
I rely  so  far  on  the  geographical  information  I thus  received  that 
I would  advise  no  one  to  doubt  the  accuracy  of  these  protractions 
until  he  has  been  on  the  spot  to  test  them  by  actual  inspection. 
About  the  size  only  of  the  minor  lakes  do  I feel  doubtful,  more 
especially  the  Little  Luta  Nzige,  which  on  the  former  journey  I 
heard  was  a salt  lake,  because  salt  was  found  on  its  shores  and  in 
one  of  its  islands.  Now,  without  going  into  any  lengthy  details, 
and  giving  Rumanika  due  credit  for  every  thing — for,  had  he  not 
ordered  his  men  to  give  me  every  information  that  lay  in  their 
power,  they  would  not  have  done  so — I will  merely  say  for  the 
present  that,  while  they  conceived  the  Victoria  N’yanza  would 
take  a whole  month  for  a canoe  to  cross  it,  they  thought  the  Lit- 
tle Luta  Nzige  might  be  crossed  in  a week.  The  Mfumbiro 
cones  in  Ruanda,  which  I believe  reach  10,000  feet,  are  said  to  be 
the  highest  of  the  “Mountains  of  the  Moon.”  At  their  base  are 
both  salt  and  copper  mines,  as  well  as  hot  springs.  There  are 
also  hot  springs  in  Mpororo,  and  one  in  Karagiie  near  where  Ro- 
gbro  lived. 

30 tli.  The  important  business  of  announcing  our  approach  to 
Uganda  was  completed  by  Rumanika  appointing  Kachuchu  to  go 
to  King  Mtesa  as  quickly  as  possible,  to  say  we  were  coming  to 
visit  him.  lie  was  told  that  we  were  very  great  men,  who  only 
traveled  to  see  great  kings  and  great  countries ; and,  as  such,  Ru- 
manika trusted  we  should  be  received  with  courteous  respect,  and 
allowed  to  roam  all  over  the  country  wherever  we  liked,  he  hold- 
ing himself  responsible  for  our  actions  for  the  time  being.  In 
the  end,  however,  we  were  to  be  restored  to  him,  as  he  considered 
himself  our  father,  and  therefore  must  see  that  no  accident  befell 
us. 

To  put  the  royal  message  in  proper  shape,  I was  now  requested 
to  send  some  trifle  by  way  of  a letter  or  visiting-card ; but,  on 
taking  out  a Colt’s  revolving  rifle  for  the  purpose,  Rumanika  ad- 
vised me  not  to  send  it,  as  Mtesa  might  take  fright,  and,  consider- 
ing it  a charm  of  evil  quality,  reject  us  as  bad  magicians,  and 
close  his  gates  on  us.  Three  bits  of  cotton  cloth  were  then  select- 
ed as  the  best  thing  for  the  purpose ; and,  relying  implicitly  on 
the  advice  of  Rumanika,  who  declared  his  only  object  was  to  fur- 
ther our  views,  I arranged  accordingly,  and  off  went  Kachuchu. 

To  keep  my  friend  in  good-humor,  and  show  him  how  well  the 


Dec.] 


KARAGUE. 


213 


English  can  appreciate  a kindness,  I presented  him  with  a ham- 
mer, a sailor’s  knife,  a Rodgers’s  three-bladed  penknife,  a gilt  let- 
ter-slip with  paper  and  envelopes,  some  gilt  pens,  an  ivory  hold- 
er, and  a variety  of  other  small  articles.  Of  each  of  these  he  ask- 
ed the  use,  and  then  in  high  glee  put  it  into  the  big  block-tin  box, 
in  which  he  kept  his  other  curiosities,  and  which  I think  he  felt 
more  proud  of  than  any  other  possession.  After  this,  on  adjourn- 
ing to  his  baraza,  Ungurue  the  Pig,  who  had  floored  my  march  in 
Sorombo,  and  Makinga,  our  persecutor  in  Usui,  came  in  to  report 
that  the  Watuta  had  been  fighting  in  Usui,  and  taken  six  bomas, 
upon  which  Rumanika  asked  me  what  I thought  of  it,  and  if  I 
knew  where  the  Watuta  came  from.  I said  I was  not  surprised 
to  hear  Usui  had  attracted  the  W atuta’s  cupidity,  for  every  one 
knew  of  the  plundering  propensities  of  the  inhabitants,  and  as 
they  became  rich  by  their  robberies,  they  must  in  turn  expect  to 
be  robbed.  Where  the  Watuta  came  from  nobody  could  tell ; 
they  were  dressed  something  like  the  Zulu  Kafirs  of  the  south, 
but  appeared  to  be  now  gradually  migrating  from  the  regions  of 
Lake  N’yassa.  To  this,  Dr.  K’yengo,  who  was  now  living  with 
Rumanika  as  his  head  magician,  added  that,  while  he  was  living 
in  Utambara,  the ‘Watuta  invested  his  boma  six  months;  and 
finally,  when  all  their  cows  and  stores  were  exhausted,  they  killed 
all  the  inhabitants  but  himself,  and  he  only  escaped  by  the  power 
of  the  charms  whiSh  he  carried  about  him.  These  were  so  pow- 
erful, that,  although  he  lay  on  the  ground,  and  the  Watuta  struck 
at  him  with  their  spears,  not  one  could  penetrate  his  body. 

In  the  evening  after  this,  as  the  king  wished  to  see  all  my  sci- 
entific instruments,  we  walked  down  to  the  camp ; and  as  he  did 
not  beg  for  any  thing,  I gave  him  some  gold  and  mother-of-pearl 
shirt-studs  to  swell  up  his  trinket-box.  The  same  evening  I made 
up  my  mind,  if  possible,  to  purchase  a stock  of  beads  from  the 
Arabs,  and  sent  Baraka  off  to  Kufro  to  see  what  kind  of  a bar- 
gain he  could  make  with  them ; for,  while  I trembled  to  think 
what  those  “bloodsuckers”  would  have  the  impudence  to  demand 
when  they  found  me  at  their  mercy,  I felt  that  the  beads  must  be 
bought,  or  the  expedition  would  certainly  come  to  grief. 

\st  and  2 d.  Two  days  after  this  the  merchants  came  in  a body 
to  see  me,  and  said  their  worst  beads  would  stand  me  $80  per 
frasala,  as  they  could  realize  that  value  in  ivory  on  arrival  at  the 
coast.  Of  course  no  business  was  done,  for  the  thing  was  prepos- 
terous by  all  calculation,  being  close  on  2500  per  cent,  above  Zan- 


214 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[18G1. 


zibar  valuation.  I was  “ game”  to  give  $50,  but  as  they  would 
not  take  this,  I thought  of  dealing  with  Eumanika  instead.  I 
then  gave  Nnanaji,  who  had  been  constantly  throwing  out  hints 
that  I ought  to  give  him  a gun,  as  he  was  a great  sportsman,  a 
lappet  of  bead-work  to  keep  his  tongue  quiet,  and  he,  in  return, 
sent  me  a bullock  and  sundry  pots  of  pornbe,  which,  in  addition 
to  the  daily  allowance  sent  by  Eumanika,  made  all  my  people 
drunk,  and  so  affected  Baraka  that  one  of  the  women — also  drunk 
— having  given  him  some  sharp  abuse,  he  beat  her  in  so  violent 
a manner  that  the  whole  drunken  camp  set  upon  him,  and  turned 
the  place  into  a pandemonium.  A row  among  negroes  means  a 
general  rising  of  arms,  legs,  and  voices ; all  are  in  a state  of  the 
greatest  excitement ; and  each  individual  thinks  he  is  doing  the  . 
best  to  mend  matters,  but  is  actually  doing  his  best  to  create  com 
' fusion. 

By  dint  of  perseverance,  I now  succeeded  in  having  Baraka 
separated  from  the  crowd  and  dragged  before  me  for  justice.  I 
found  that  the  woman,  who  fully  understood  the  jealous  hatred 
which  existed  in  Baraka’s  heart  against  Bombay,  flirted  with  both 
of  them ; and,  pretending  to  show  a preference  for  Bombay,  set 
Baraka  against  her,  when  from  high  words  they  came  to  blows, 
and  set  the  place  in  a blaze.  It  was  useless  to  remonstrate; 
Baraka  insisted  he  would  beat  the  woman  if  she  abused  him,  no 
matter  whether  I thought  it  cowardly  or  not-;  he  did  not  come 
with  me  expecting  to  be  bullied  in  this  way — the  whole  fault  lay 
with  Bombay — I did  not  do  him  justice — when  he  proved  Bom- 
bay a thief  at  Usui,  I did  not  turn  him  off,  but  now,  instead,  I 
showed  the  preference  to  Bombay  by  always  taking  him  when  I 
went  to  Eumanika.  It  was  useless  to  argue  with  such  a passion- 
ate man,  so  I told  him  to  go  away  and  cool  himself  before  morn- 
mg. 

When  he  was  gone,  Bombay  said  there  was  not  one  man  in 
the  camp,  besides  his  own  set,  who  wished  to  go  on  to  Egypt,  for 
they  had  constant  arguments  among  themselves  about  it;  and 
while  Bombay  always  said  he  would  follow  me  wherever  I led, 
Baraka  and  those  who  held  by  him  abused  him  and  his  set  for 
having  tricked  them  away  from  Zanzibar,  under  the  false  hopes 
that  the  road  was  quite  safe.  Bombay  said  his  arguments  were 
that  Bana  knew  better  than  any  body  else  what  he  was  about, 
and  he  would  follow  him,  trusting  to  luck,  as  Grod  was  the  dis- 
poser of  all  things,  and  men  could  die  but  once;  while  Baraka’s 


Dec.] 


KAKAGUE. 


215 


arguments  all  rested  the  other  way — that  no  one  could  tell  what 
was  ahead  of  him — Bana  had  sold  himself  to  luck  and  the  devil 
— but,  though  he  did  not  care  for  his  own  safety,  he  ought  not  to 
sacrifice  the  lives  of  others — Bombay  and  his  lot  were  fools  for 
their  pains  in  trusting  to  him. 

3d  At  daybreak  Bumanika  sent  us  word  he  was  off  to  Moga- 
Hamirinzi,  a spur  of  a hill  beyond  “the  Little  Windermere,” 
overlooking  the  Ingezi  Kagera,  or  river  which  separates  Kishak- 
ka  from  Karague,  to  show  me  how  the  Kitangule  Biver  was  fed 
by  small  lakes  and  marshes,  in  accordance  with  my  expressed 
wish  to  have  a better  comprehension  of  the  drainage  system  of 
the  Mountains  of  the  Moon.  He  hoped  we  would  follow  him,  not 
by  the  land  route  he  intended  to  take,  but  in  canoes  which  he  had 
ordered  at  the  ferry  below.  Starting  off  shortly  afterward,  I 
made  for  the  lake,  and  found  the  canoes  all  ready,  but  so  small 
that,  besides  two  paddlers,  only  two  men  could  sit  down  in  each. 
After  pushing  through  the  tall  reeds  with  which  the  end  of  the 
lake  is  covered,  we  emerged  in  the  clear  open,  and  skirted  the 
farther  side  of  the  water  until  a small  strait  was  gained,  which  led 
us  into  another,  lake,  drained  at  the  northern  end  into  a vast 
swampy  plain,  covered  entirely  with  tall  rushes,  excepting  only 
in  a few  places  where  bald  patches  expose  the  surface  of  the  wa- 
ter, or  where  the  main  streams  of  the  Ingezi  and  Luchuro  valleys 
cut  a clear  drain  for  themselves. 

The  whole  scenery  was  most  beautiful.  Green  and  fresh,  the 
slopes  of  the  hills  were  covered  with  grass,  with  small  clumps  of 
soft  cloudy-looking  acacias  growing  at  a few  feet  only  above  the 
water,  and  above  them,  facing  over  the  hills,  fine  detached  trees, 
and  here  and  there  the  gigantic  medicinal  aloe.  Arrived  near 
the  end  of  the  Moga-Hamirinzi  Hill  in  the  second  lake,  the  pad- 
dlers splashed  into  shore,  where  a large  concourse  of  people, 
headed  by  Hnanaji,  were  drawn  up  to  receive  me.  I landed  with 
all  the  dignity  of  a prince,  when  the  royal  band  struck  up  a 
march,  and  we  all  moved  on  to  Biimanika’s  frontier  palace,  talk- 
ing away  in  a very  complimentary  manner,  not  unlike  the  very 
polite  and  flowery  fashion  of  educated  Orientals. 

Bumanika  we  found  sitting  dressed  in  a wrapper  made  of  an 
nzoe  antelope’s  skin,  smiling  blandly  as  we  approached  him.  In 
the  warmest  manner  possible  he  pressed  me  to  sit  by  his  side, 
asked  howr  I had  enjoyed  myself,  what  I thought  of  his  country, 
and  if  I did  not  feel  hungry ; when  a picnic  dinner  was  spread, 


216 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[I8G1. 


and  we  all  set  to  at  cooked  plantains  and  pombe,  ending  with  a 
pipe  of  his  best  tobacco.  Bit  by  bit  Rumanika  became  more  in- 
terested in  geography,  and  seemed  highly  ambitious  of  gaining  a 
world-wide  reputation  through  the  medium  of  my  pen.  At  his 
invitation  we  now  crossed  over  the  spur  to  the  Ingezi  Kagera 
side,  when,  to  surprise  me,  the  canoes  I had  come  up  the  lake  in 
appeared  before  us.  They  had  gone  out  of  the  lake  at  its  north- 
ern end,  paddled  into,  and  then  up  the  Kagera  to  where  we  stood, 
showing,  by  actual  navigation,  the  connection  of  these  highland 
lakes  with  the  rivers  which  drain  the  various  spurs  of  the  Mount- 
ains of  the  Moon.  The  Kagera  was  deep  and  dark,  of  itself  a 
very  fine  stream,  and,  considering  it  was  only  one — and  that,  too, 
a minor  one— of  the  various  affluents  which  drain  the  mountain 
valleys  into  the  Victoria  N’yanza  through  the  medium  of  the 
Kitangule  River,  I saw  at  once  there  must  be  water  sufficient  to 
make  the  Kitangule  a very  powerful  tributary  to  the  lake. 

On  leaving  this  interesting  place,  with  the  wide-spread  informa- 
tion of  all  the  surrounding  countries  I had  gained,  my  mind  was 
so  impressed  with  the  topographical  features  of  all  this  part  of 
Africa,  that  in  my  heart  I resolved  I would  make  Rumanika  as 
happy  as  he  had  made  me,  and  asked  K’yengo,  his  doctor,  of  all 
things  I possessed,  what  the  king  would  like  best.  To  my  sur- 
prise, I then  learned  that  Rumanika  had  set  his  heart  on  the  re- 
volving rifle  I had  brought  for  Mtesa — the  one,  in  fact,  which  he 
had  prevented  my  sending  on  to  Uganda  in  the  hands  of  Kachu- 
chii,  and  he  would  have  begged  me  for  it  before  had  his  high- 
minded  dignity,  and  the  principle  he  had  established  of  never 
begging  for  any  thing,  not  interfered.  I then  said  he  should  cer- 
tainly have  it;  for  as  strongly  as  I had  withheld  from  giving  an}^ 
thing  to  those  begging  scoundrels  who  wished  to  rob  me  of  all  I 
possessed  in  the  lower  countries,  so  strongly  now  did  I feel  in- 
clined to  be  generous  with  this  exceptional  man  Rumanika.  We 
then  had  another  picnic  together,  and,  while  I went  home  to  join 
Grant,  Rumanika  spent  the  night  doing  homage  and  sacrificing  a 
bullock  at  the  tomb  of  his  father  Dagara. 

Instead  of  paddling  all  down  the  lake  again,  I walked  over  the 
hill,  and,  on  crossing  at  its  northern  end,  wished  to  shoot  ducks ; 
but  the  superstitious  boatmen  put  a stop  to  my  intended  amuse- 
ment by  imploring  me  not  to  do  so,  lest  the  spirit  of  the  lake 
should  be  roused  to  dry  up  the  waters. 

4dh.  Rumanika  returned  in  the  morning,  walking  up  the  hill, 


Dec.] 


KARAGUE. 


217 


followed  by  a long  train  of  bis  officers,  and  a party  of  men  carry- 
ing on  their-  shoulders  his  state  carriage,  which  consisted  of  a 
large  open  basket  laid  on  the  top  of  two  very  long  poles.  After 
entering  his  palace,  I immediately  called  on  him  to  thank  him 
for  the  great  treat  he  had  given  me,  and  presented  him,  as  an 
earnest  of  what  I thought,  with  the  Colt’s  revolving  rifle  and  a 
fair  allowance  of  ammunition.  His  delight  knew  no  bounds  on 
becoming  the  proprietor  of  such  an  extraordinary  weapon,  and 
induced  him  to  dwell  on  his  advantages  over  his  brother  Rogero, 
whose  antipathy  to  him  was  ever  preying  on  his  mind.  He 
urged  me  again  to  devise  some  plan  for  overcoming  him ; and, 
becoming  more  and  more  confidential,  favored  me  with  the  fol- 
lowing narrative,  by  way  of  evidence  how  the  spirits  were  in- 
clined to  show  all  the  world  that  he  was  the  rightful  successor.to 
the  throne:  When  Dagara  died,  and  he,  Nnanaji,  and  Rogero, 
were  the  only  three  sons  left  in  line  of  succession  to  the  crown,  a 
small  mystic  drum  of  diminutive  size  was  placed  before  them  by 
the  officers  of  state.  It  was  only  feather  weight  in  reality,  but, 
being  loaded  with  charms,  became  so  heavy  to  those  who  were 
not  entitled  to  the  crown,  that  no  one  could  lift  it  but  the  one  per- 
son whom  the  spirits  were  inclined  toward  as  the  rightful  success- 
or. Now,  of  all  the  three  brothers,  he,  Rumanika,  alone  could 
raise  it  from  the  ground ; and  while  his  brothers  labored  hard, 
in  vain  attempting  to  move  it,  he  with  his  little  finger  held  it  up 
without  any  exertion. 

This  little  disclosure  in  the  history  of  Karague  led  us  on  to 
farther  particulars  of  Dagara’s  death  and  burial,  when  it  tran- 
spired that  the  old  king’s  body,  after  the  fashion  of  his  predeces- 
sors, was  sewn  up  in  a cowskin,  and  placed  in  a boat  floating  on 
the  lake,  where  it  remained  for  three  days,  until  decomposition 
set  in  and  maggots  were  engendered,  of  which  three  were  taken 
into  the  palace  and  given  in  charge  of  the  heir-elect ; but,  instead 
of  remaining  as  they  were,  one  worm  was  transformed  into  a lion, 
another  into  a leopard,  and  the  third  into  a stick.  After  this  the 
body  of  the  king  was  taken  up  and  deposited  on  the  hill  Moga- 
Namirinzi,  where,  instead  of  putting  him  under  ground,  the  people 
erected  a hut  over  him,  and,  thrusting  in  five  maidens  and  fifty 
cows,  inclosed  the  doorway  in  such  a manner  that  the  whole  of 
them  subsequently  died  from  starvation. 

This,  as  may  naturally  be  supposed,  led  into  farther  genealog- 
ical disclosures  of  a similar  nature,  and  I was  told  by  Rumanika 


218 


TIIE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


that  his  grandfather  was  a most  wonderful  man;  indeed,  Karagiie 
was  blessed  with  more  supernatural  agencies  than  any  other  coun- 
try. Eohinda  the  Sixth,  who  was  his  grandfather,  numbered  so 
many  years  that  people  thought  he  never  would  die ; and  he  even 
became  so  concerned  himself  about  it,  reflecting  that  his  son  Da- 
gara would  never  enjoy  the  benefit  of  his  position  as  successor  to 
the  crown  of  Karagiie,  that  he  took  some  magic  powders  and 
charmed  away  his  life.  His  remains  were  then  taken  to  Moga- 
Namirinzi,  in  the  same  manner  as  were  those  of  Dagara ; but,  as 
an  improvement  on  the  maggot  story,  a young  lion  emerged  from 
the  heart  of  the  corpse  and  kept  guard  over  the  hill,  from  whom 
other  lions  came  into  existence,  until  the  whole  place  has  become 
infested  by  them,  and  has  since  made  Karagiie  a power  and  dread 
to  all  other  nations;  for  these  lions  became  subject  to  the  will  of 
Dagara,  who,  when  attacked  by  the  countries  to  the  northward, 
instead  of  assembling  an  army  of  men,  assembled  his  lion  force, 
and  so  swept  all  before  him. 

Another  test  was  then  advanced  at  the  instigation  of  K’yengo, 
who  thought  Rumanika  not  quite  impressive  enough  of  his  right 
to  the  throne;  and  this  was,  that  each  heir  in  succession,  even 
after  the  drum  dodge,  was  required  to  sit  on  the  ground  in  a cer- 
tain place  of  the  country,  where,  if  he  had  courage  to  plant  him- 
self, the  land  would  gradually  rise  up,  telescope-fashion,  until  it 
reached  to  the  skies,  when,  if  the  aspirant  was  considered  by  the 
spirits  the  proper  person  to  inherit  Karagud,  he  would  gradually 
be  lowered  again  without  any  harm  happening ; but,  otherwise, 
the  elastic  hill  would  suddenly  collapse,  and  he  would  be  dashed 
to  pieces.  How  Rumanika,  by  his  own  confession,  had  gone 
through  this  ordeal  with  marked  success;  so  I asked  him  if  he 
found  the  atmosphere  cold  when  so  far  up  aloft,  and  as  he  said  he 
did  so,  laughing  at  the  quaintness-  of  the  question,  I told  him  I 
saw  he  had  learned  a good  practical  lesson  on  the  structure  of  the 
universe,  which  I wished  he  would  explain  to  me.  In  a state  of 
perplexity,  K’yengo  and  the  rest,  on  seeing  me  laughing,  thought 
something  was  wrong;  so,  turning  about,  they  thought  again,  and 
said,  “No,  it  must  have  been  hot,  because  the  higher  one  ascended 
the  nearer  he  got  to  the  sun.” 

This  led  on  to  one  argument  after  another,  on  geology,  geog- 
raphy, and  all  the  natural  sciences,  and  ended  by  Rumanika 
showing  me  an  iron  much  the  shape  and  size  of  a carrot.  This 
he  said  was  found  by  one  of  his  villagers  while  tilling  the  ground, 


Dec.] 


KARAGUE. 


221 


buried  some  way  down  below  the  surface;  but,  dig  as  he  would, 
he  could  not  remove  it,  and  therefore  called  some  more  men  to 
his  help.  Still  the  whole  of  them  united  could  not  lift  the  iron, 
which  induced  them,  considering  there  must  be  some  magic  in  it, 
to  inform  the  king.  “ Now,”  says  Bumanika,  “ I no  sooner  went 
there  and  saw  the  iron,  than,  without  the  smallest  exertion,  I up- 
lifted the  iron,  and  brought  it  here  as  you  see  it.  What  can  such 
a sign  mean?”  “ Of  course  that  you  are  the  rightful  king,”  said 
his  flatterers.  “Then,”  said  Bumanika,  in  exuberant  spirits, 
“during  Dagara’s  time,  as  the  king  was  sitting  with  many  other 
men  outside  his  hut,  a fearful  storm  of  thunder  and  lightning 
arose,  and  a thunderbolt  struck  the  ground  in  the  midst  of  them, 
which  dispersed  all  the  men  but  Dagara,  who  calmly  took  up  the 
thunderbolt  and  placed  it  in  the  palace.  I,  however,  no  sooner 
came  into  possession,  and  Bogero  began  to  contend  with  me,  than 
the  thunderbolt  vanished.  How  would  you  account  for  this?” 
The  flatterers  said,  “It  is  clear  as  possible;  God  gave  the  thunder- 
bolt to  Dagara  as  a sign  he  was  pleased  with  him  and  his  rule ; 
but  when  he  found  two  brothers  contending,  he  withdrew  it  to 
show  their  conduct  was  wicked.” 

5 th.  Bumanika  in  the  morning  sent  me  a young  male  nzoe 
(water-boc)*  which  his  canoe-men  had  caught  in  the  high  rushes 
at  the  head  of  the  lake,  by  the  king’s  order,  to  please  me ; for  I 
had  heard  this  peculiar  animal  described  in  such  strange  ways  at 
Kaze,  both  by  Musa  and  the  Arabs,  I was  desirous -of  having  a 
look  at  one.  It  proved  to  be  closely  allied  to  a water-boc  found 
by  Livingstone  on  the  Ngami  Lake;  but,  instead  of  being  striped, 
was  very  faintly  spotted,  and  so  long  were  its  toes,  it  could  hard- 
ly walk  on  the  dry  ground ; while  its  coat,  also  well  adapted  to 
the  moist  element  it  lived  in,  was  long,  and  of  such  excellent  qual- 
ity that  the  natives  prize  it  for  wearing  almost  more  than  any 
other  of  the  antelope  tribe.  The  only  food  it  would  eat  were  the 
tops  of  the  tall  papyrus  rushes ; but,  though  it  ate  and  drank  free- 
ly, and  lay  down  very  quietly,  it  always  charged  with  ferocity 
any  person  who  went  near  it. 

In  the  afternoon  Bumanika  invited  both  Grant  and  myself  to 
witness  his  New-moon  Levee,  a ceremony  which  takes  place  every 
month  with  a view  of  ascertaining  how  many  of  his  subjects  are 
loyal.  On  entering  his  palace  inclosure,  the  first  thing  we  saw 

* Since  named  by  Dr.  P.  L.  Sclater  “Tragelaphus  Spekii.”  These  nzoe  have 
been  drawn  by  Mr.  Wolff  from  specimens  brought  home  hv  mvself. 


222 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


was  a blaue  boc’s  horn  stuffed  full  of  magic  powder,  with  very 
imposing  effect,  by  K’yengo,  and  stuck  in  the  ground,  with  its 
mouth  pointing  in  the  direction  of  Rogero.  In  the  second  court 
we  found  thirty-five  drums  ranged  on  the  ground,  with  as  many 
drummers  standing  behind  them,  and  a knot  of  young  princes  and 


The  King’s  New-moon  Levee. 


officers  of  high  dignity  waiting  to  escort  us  into  the  third  inclos- 
ure, where,  in  his  principal  hut,  we  found  Rumanika  squatting  on 
the  ground,  half  concealed  by  the  portal,  but  showing  his  smiling 
face  to  welcome  us  in.  His  head  was  got  up  with  a tiara  of  beads, 
from  the  centre  of  which,  directly  over  the  forehead,  stood  a plume 
of  red  feathers,  and  encircling  the  lower  face  with  a fine  large 
white  beard  set  in  a stock  or  band  of  beads.  We  were  beckoned 
to  squat  alongside  Hnanaji,  the  master  of  ceremonies,  and  a large 
group  of  high  officials  outside  the  porch.  Then  the  thirty-five 
drums  all  struck  up  together  in  very  good  harmony ; and  when 
their  deafening  noise  was  over,  a smaller  band  of  hand-drums  and 
reed  instruments  was  ordered  in  to  amuse  us. 

This  second  performance  over,  from  want  of  breath  only,  dis- 
trict officers,  one  by  one,  came  advancing  on  tiptoe,  then  pausing, 
contorting  and  quivering  their  bodies,  advancing  again  with  a 
springing  gait  and  outspread  arms,  which  they  moved  as  if  they 
wished  to  force  them  out  of  their  joints,  in  all  of  which  actions 
they  held  drum-sticks  or  twigs  in  their  hands,  swore  with  a mani- 
acal voice  an  oath  of  their  loyalty  and  devotion  to  their  king, 
backed  by  the  expression  of  a hope  that  he  would  cut  off  their 
heads  if  they  ever  turned  from  his  enemies,  and  then,  kneeling- 
before  him,  they  held  out  their  sticks  that  he  might  touch  them. 


Dec.] 


KARAGUE. 


223 


With,  a constant  reiteration  of  these  scenes — the  saluting  at  one 
time,  the  music  at  another — interrupted  only  once  by  a number 
of  girls  dancing  something  like  a good  rough  Highland  fling  while 
the  little  band  played,  the  day’s  ceremonies  ended. 

6th  and  1th.  During  the  next  two  days,  as  my  men  had  all  worn 
out  their  clothes,  I gave  them  each  thirty  necklaces  of  beads  to 
purchase  a suit  of  the  bark  cloth  called  mbugu,  already  described. 
Finding  the  flour  of  the  country  too  bitter  to  eat  by  itself,  we 
sweetened  it  with  ripe  plantains,  and  made  a good  cake  of  it.  The 
king  now,  finding  me  disinclined  to  fight  his  brother  Rogero  ei- 
ther with  guns  or  magic  horns,  asked  me  to  give  him  a “ doctor” 
or  charm  to  create  longevity  and  to  promote  the  increase  of  his 
family,  as  his  was  not  large  enough  to  maintain  the  dignity  of  so 
great  a man  as  himself.  I gave  him  a blister,  and,  changing  the 
subject,  told  him  the  history  of  the  creation  of  man.  After  listen- 
ing to  it  attentively,  he  asked  what  thing  in  creation  I considered 
the  greatest  of  all  things  in  the  world ; for  while  a man  at  most 
could  only  live  one  hundred  years,  a tree  lived  many ; but  the 
earth  ought  to  be  biggest,  for  it  never  died. 

I then  told  him  again  I wished  one  of  his  sons  would  accom- 
pany me  to  England,  that  he  might  learn  the  history  of  Moses, 
wherein  he  would  find  that  men  had  souls  which  live  forever,  but 
that  the  earth  would  come  to  an  end  in  the  fullness  of  time.  This 
conversation,  diversified  by  numerous  shrewd  remarks  on  the  part 
of  Rumanika,  led  to  his  asking  how  I could  account  for  the  de- 
cline of  countries,  instancing  the  dismemberment  of  the  Wahuma 
ih'Kiftara,  and  remarking  that  formerly  Karague  included  Urun- 
di,  Ruanda,  and  Kishakka,  which  collectively  were  known  as  the 
kingdom  of  Meru,  governed  b}^  one  man.  Christian  principles,  I 
said,  made  us  what  we  are,  and  feeling  a sympathy  for  him  made 
me  desirous  of  taking  one  of  his  children  to  learn  in  the  same 
school  with  us,  who,  on  returning  to  him.  could  impart  what  he 
knew,  and,  extending  the  same  by  course  of  instruction,  would 
doubtless  end  by  elevating  his  country  to  a higher  position  than 
it  ever  knew  before,  etc.,  etc.  The  policy  and  government  of  the 
vast  possessions  of  Great  Britain  were  then  duly  discussed,  and 
Rumanika  acknowledged  that  the  power  of  the  pen  was  superior 
to  that  of  the  sword^and  the  electric  telegraph  and  steam-engine 
the  most  wonderful  powers  ho  had  ever  heard  of 

Before  breaking  up,  Rumanika  wished  to  give  me  any  number 
of  ivories  I might  like  to  mention,  even  three  or  four  hundred,  as 


224 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


a lasting  remembrance  that  I had  done  him  the  honor  of  visiting 
Karague  in  his  lifetime ; for,  though  Dagara  had  given  to  colored 
merchants,  he  would  be  the  first  who  had  given  to  a white  man. 
Of  course  this  royal  offer  was  declined  with  politeness;  he  must 
understand  that  it  was  not  the  custom  of  big  men  in  my  country 
to  accept  presents  of  value  when  we  made  visits  of  pleasure.  I 
had  enjoyed  my  residence  in  Karague,  his  intellectual  conversa- 
tions and  his  kind  hospitality,  all  of  which  I should  record  in  my 
books  to  hand  down  to  posterity ; but  if  he  would  give  me  a cow’s 
horn,  I would  keep  it  as  a trophy  of  the  happy  days  I had  spent 
in  his  country.  He  gave  me  one,  measuring  3 feet  5 inches  in 
length,  and  18f  inches  in  circumference  at  the  base.  He  then 
offered  me  a large  sheet,  made  up  of  a patchwork  of  very  small 
N’yera  antelope  skins,  most  exquisitely  cured  and  sewn.  This  I 
rejected,  as  he  told  me  it  had  been  given  to  himself,  explaining 
that  we  prided  ourselves  on  never  parting  with  the  gifts  of  a 
friend ; and  this  speech  tickled  his  fancy  so  much  that  he  said  he 
never  would  part  with  any  thing  I gave  him. 

8th  and  9 Ih.  The  8th  went  off  much  in  the  usual  way  by  my 
calling  on  the  king,  when  I. gave  him  a pack  of  playing-cards, 
which  he  put  into  his  curiosity -box.  He  explained  to  me,  at  my 
request,’ what  sort  of  things  he  would  likejmy  future  visitors  to 
bring  him— a-gpiece  of  gold  and  silver  embrmderyq~hut,  before 
any  thing  else,  I found  he  would  like  to  have  toj-s,  such  as  Yan- 
kee clocks  with  the  face  in  a man’s  stomach,  to  wind  up  behind, 
his  eyes  rolling  with  every  beat  of  the  pendulum  ; or  a china-cow 
milk-pot,  a jack-in-the-box,  models  of  men,  carriages,  and  horses 
- — all  animals,  in  fact,  and  railways  in  particular. 

On  the  9th  I went  out  shooting,  as  Kumanika,  with  his  usual 
politeness,  on  hearing  my  desire  to  kill  some  rhinoceros,  ordered 
his  sons  to  conduct  the  field  for  me.  Off  we  started  by  sunrise  to 
the  bottom  of  the  hills  overlooking  the  head  of  the  Little  Winder- 
mere  lake.  On  arrival  at  the  scene  of  action — a thicket  of  acacia 
shrubs — all  the  men  in  the  neighborhood  were  assembled  to  beat. 
Taking  post  myself,  by  direction,  in  the  most  likely  place  to  catch 
a sight  of  the  animals,  the  day’s  work  began  by  the  beaters  driv- 
ing the  covers  in  my  direction.  In  a very  short  time  a fine  male 
was  discovered  making  toward  me,  but  not  exactly  knowing  where 
he  should  bolt  to.  While  he  was  in  this  perplexity,  I stole  along 
between  the  bushes,  and  caught  sight  of  him  standing  as  if  anchor- 
ed by  the  side  of  a tree,  and  gave  him  a broadsider  with  Blissett, 


Dec.] 


KARAGUE. 


225 


which,  too  much  for  his  constitution  to  stand,  sent  him  off  trot- 
ting, till,  exhausted  by  bleeding,  he  lay  down  to  die,  and  allowed 
me  to  give  him  a settler. 

In  a minute  or  two  afterward,  the  good  young  princes,  attract- 
ed by  the  sound  of  the  gun,  came  to  see  what  was  done.  Their 
surprise  knew  no  bounds ; they  could  scarcely  believe  what  they 
saw;  and  then,  on  recovering,  with  the  spirit  of  true  gentlemen, 
they  seized  both  my  hands,  congratulating  me  on  the  magnitude 
of  my  success,  and  pointed  out,  as  an  example  of  it,  a by-stander 
who  showed  fearful  scars,  both  on  his  abdomen  and  at  the  blade 
of  his  shoulder,  who  they  declared  had  been  run  through  by  one 
of  these  animals.  It  was,  therefore,  wonderful  to  them,  they  ob- 
served, with  what  calmness  I went  up  to  such  formidable  beasts. 

Just  at  this  time  a distant  cry  was  heard  that  another  rhinoce- 
ros was  concealed  in  a thicket,  and  off  we  set  to  pursue  her.  Ar- 
riving at  the  place  mentioned,  I settled  at  once  I would  enter  with 
only  two  spare  men  carrying  guns,  for  the  acacia  thorns  were  so 
thick  that  the  only  tracks  into  the  thicket  were  runs  made  by 
these  animals.  Leading  myself,  bending  down  to  steal  in,  I track- 
ed up  a run  till  halfway  through  cover,  when  suddenly  before  me, 
like  a pig  from  a hole,  a large  female,  with  her  young  one  behind 
her,  came  straight  down  whoof-whoofing  upon  me.  In  this  awk- 
ward fix  I forced  myself  to  one  side,  though  pricked  all  over  with 
thorns  in  doing  so,  and  gave  her  one  in  the  head  which  knocked 
her  out  of  my  path,  and  induced  her,  for  safety,  to  make  for  the 
open,  where  I followed  her  down  and  gave  her  another.  She  then 
took  to  the  hills  and  crossed  over  a spur,  when,  following  after 
her,  in  another  dense  thicket,  near  the  head  of  a glen,  I came  upon 
three,  who  no  sooner  sighted  me  than  all  in  line  they  charged 
down  my  way.  Fortunately,  at  the  time,  my  gun-bearers  were 
with  me;  so,  jumping  to  one  side,  I struck  them  all  three  in  turn. 
One  of  them  dropped  dead  a little  way  on,  but  the  others  only 
pulled  up  when  they  arrived  at  the  bottom.  To  please  myself, 
now  I had  done  quite  enough ; but,  as  the  princes  would  have  it, 
I went  on  with  the  chase.  As  one  of  the  two,  I could  see,  had 
one  of  his  fore  legs  broken,  I went  at  the  sounder  one,  and  gave 
him  another  shot,  which  simply  induced  him  to  walk  over  the 
lower  end  of  the  hill.  Then  turning  to  the  last  one,  which  could 
not  escape,  I asked  the  AVanyambo  to  polish  him  off  with  their 
spears  and  arrows,  that  I might  see  their  mode  of  sport.  As  we 
moved  up  to  the  animal,  he  kept  charging  with  such  impetuous 

P 


226 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


fury  they  could  not  go  into  him ; so  I gave  him  a second  ball, 
which  brought  him  to  anchor.  In  this  helpless  state,  the  men  set 
at  him  in  earnest,  and  a more  barbarous  finale  I never  did  wit- 
ness. Every  man  sent  his  spear,  assegai,  or  arrow  into  his  sides, 
until,  completely  exhausted,  he  sank  like  a porcupine  covered 
with  quills.  The  day’s  sport  was  now  ended,  so  I went  home  to 
breakfast,  leaving  instructions  that  the  heads  should  be  cut  off  and 
sent  to  the  king  as  a trophy  of  what  the  white  man  could  do. 

1 Oth  and  1 1th.  The  next  day,  when  I called  on  Rumanika,  the 
spoils  were  brought  into  court,  and  in  utter  astonishment  he  said, 
“ Well,  this  must  have  been  done  with  something  more  potent 
than  powder,  for  neither  the  Arabs  nor  Nnanaji,  although  they 
talk  of  their  shooting  powers,  could  have  accomplished  such  a 
great  feat  as  this.  It  is  no  wonder  the  English  are  the  greatest 
men  in  the  world.” 

Neither  the  Wanyambo  nor  the  Wahurna  would  eat  the  rhi- 
noceros, so  I was  not  sorry  to  find  all  the  Wanyamudzi  porters  of 
the  Arabs  at  Kufro,  on  hearing  of  the  sport,  come  over  and  carry 
away  all  the  flesh.  They  passed  by  our  camp  half  borne  down 
with  their  burdens  of  sliced  flesh,  suspended  from  poles  which 
they  carried  on  their  shoulders ; but  the  following  day  I was  dis- 
gusted by  hearing  that  their  masters  had  forbidden  their  eating 
“the  carrion,”  as  the  throats  of  the  animals  had  not  been  cut; 
and,  moreover,  had  thrashed  them  soundly  because  they  com- 
plained they  were  half  starved,  which  was  perfectly  true,  by  the 
poor  food  that  they  got  as  their  pay. 

12th.  On  visiting  Rumanika  again,  and  going  through  my  geo- 
graphical lessons,  he  told  me,  in  confirmation  of  Musa’s  old  sto- 
ries, that  in  Ruanda  there  existed  pigmies  who  lived  in  trees,  but 
occasionally  came  down  at  night,  and,  listening  at  the  hut  doors 
of  the  men,  would  wait  until  they  heard  the  name  of  one  of  its  in- 
mates, when  they  would  call  him  out,  and,  firing  an  arrow  into 
his  heart,  disappear  again  in  the  same  way  as  they  came.  But, 
more  formidable  even  than  these  little  men,  there  were  monsters 
who  could  not  converse  with  men,  and  never  showed  themselves 
unless  they  saw  women  pass  by  ; then,  in  voluptuous  excitement, 
they  squeezed  them  to  death.  Many  other  similar  stories  were 
then  told,  when  I,  wishing  to  go,  was  asked  if  I could  kill  hippo- 
potami. Having  answered  that  I could,  the  king  graciously  said 
he  would  order  some  canoes  for  me  next  morning ; and  as  I de- 
clined because  Grant  could  not  accompany  me,  as  a terrible  dis- 


I 


Dec.] 


KAEAGUE. 


229 


ease  bad  broken  out  in  his  leg,  he  ordered  a pig-shooting  party. 
Agreeably  with  this,  the  next  day  I went  out  with  his  sons,  nu- 
merously attended ; but,  although  we  beat  the  covers  all  day,  the 
rain  was  so  frequent  the  pigs  would  not  bolt. 

14 th.  After  a long  and  amusing  conversation  with  Rumanika 
in  the  morning,  I called  on  one  of  his  sisters-in-law,  married  to  an 
elder  brother  who  was  born  before  Dagara  ascended  the  throne. 
She  was  another  of  those  wonders  of  obesity,  unable  to  stand  ex- 
cepting on  all  fours.  I was  desirous  to  obtain  a good  view  of 
her,  and  actually  to  measure  her,  and  induced  her  to  give  me  fa- 
cilities for  doing  so  by  offering  in  return  to  show  her  a bit  of  my 
uaked  legs  and  arms.  The  bait  took  as  I wished  it,  and  after  get- 
ting her  to  sidle  and  wriggle  into  the  middle  of  the  hut,  I did  as 
I promised,  and  then  took  her  dimensions,  as  noted  below."  All 
of  these  are  exact  except  the  height,  and  I believe  I could  have 
obtained  this  more  accurately  if  I could  have  had  her  laid  on  the 
floor.  Not  knowing  what  difficulties  I should  have  to  contend 
with  in  such  a piece  of  engineering,  I tried  to  get  her  height  by 
raising  her  up.  This,  after  infinite  exertions  on  the  part  of  us 
both,  was  accomplished,  when  she  sank  down  again,  fainting,  for 
her  blood  had  rushed  into  her  head.  Meanwhile,  the  daughter,  a 
lass  of  sixteen,  sat  stark-naked  before  us,  sucking  at  a milk-pot, 
on  which  the  father  kept  her  at  work  by  holding  a rod  in  his 
hand ; for,  as  fattening  is  the  first  duty  of  fashionable  female  life, 
it  must  be  duly  enforced  by  the  rod  if  necessary.  I got  up  a bit 
of  flirtation  with  missy,  and  induced  her  to  rise  and  shake  hands 
with  me.  Her  features  were  lovely,  but  her  body  was  as  round 
as  a ball. 

In  the  evening  we  had  another  row  with  my  head  men,  Baraka 
having  accused  Bombay  of  trying  to  kill  him  with  magic.  Bom- 
bay, who  was  so  incessantly  bullied  by  Baraka’s  officious  attempts 
to  form  party  cliques  opposed  to  the  interests  of  the  journey,  and 
get  him  turned  out  of  the  camp,  indiscreetly  went  to  one  of  K’yen- 
go’s  men,  and  asked  him  if  he  knew  of  any  medicine  that  would 
affect  the  hearts  of  the  Wanguana  so  as  to  incline  them  toward 
him;  and  on  the  sub-doctor  saying  Yes,  Bombay  gave  him  some 
beads,  and  bought  the  medicine  required,  which,  put  into  a pot  of 
pombe,  was  placed  by  Baraka’s  side.  Baraka  in  the  mean  while 
got  wind  of  the  matter  through  K’yengo,  who,  misunderstanding 

* Bound  the  arm,  1 foot  1 1 inches ; chest,  4 feet  4 inches  ; thigh,  2 feet  7 inches ; 
calf,  1 foot  8 inches ; height,  5 feet  8 inches. 


230 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


the  true  facts  of  the  case,  said  it  was  a charm  to  deprive  Baraka 
of  his  life.  A court  of  inquiry  having  been  convened,  with  all 
the  parties  concerned  in  attendance,  K’yengo’s  mistake  was  dis- 
covered, and  Bombay  was  lectured  for  his  folly,  as  he  had  a thou- 
sand times  before  abjured  his  belief  in  such  magical  follies ; more- 
over, to  punish  him  for  the  future,  I took  Baraka,  whenever  I 
could,  with  me  to  visit  the  king,  which,  little  as  it  might  appear  to 
others,  was  of  the  greatest  consequence  to  the  hostile  parties. 

15th  and  16 A.  When  I next  called  on  Rumanika  I gave  him  a 
Yau tier’s  binocular  and  prismatic  compass,  on  which  he  politely 
remarked  he  was  afraid  he  was  robbing  me  of  every  thing.  More 
compliments  went  round,  and  then  he  asked  if  it  was  true  we 
could  open  a man’s  skull,  look  at  his  brains,  and  close  it  up  again  ; 
also  if  it  was  true  we  sailed  all  round  the  world  into  regions 
where  there  was  no  difference  between  night  and  day,  and  how, 
when  we  plowed  the  seas  in  such  enormous  vessels  as  would  car- 
ry at  once  20,000  men,  we  could  explain  to  the  sailors  what  they 
ought  to  do ; for,  although  he  had  heard  of  these  things,  no  one 
was  able  to  explain  them  to  him. 

After  all  the  explanations  were  given,  he  promised  me  a boat- 
hunt  after  the  nzoe  in  the  morning ; but  when  the  time  came,  as 
difficulties  were  raised,  I asked  him  to  allow  us  to  anticipate  the 
arrival  of  Kachiichu,  and  march  on  to  Kitanguld  He  answered, 
with  his  usual  courtesy,  That  he  would  be  very  glad  to  oblige  us 
in  any  way  that  we  liked;  but  he  feared  that,  as  the  Waganda 
were  such  superstitious  people,  some  difficulties  would  arise,  and 
he  must  decline  to  comply  with  our  request.  “You  must  not,” 
he  added,  “expect  ever  to  find  again  a reasonable  man  like  my- 
self.” I then  gave  him  a book  on  “ Kafir  laws,”  which  he  said  he 
would  keep  for  my  sake,  with  all  the  rest  of  the  presents,  which 
he  was  determined  never  to  give  away,  though  it  was  usual  for 
him  to  send  novelties  of  this  sort  to  Mtesa,  king  of  Uganda,  and 
Kamrasi,  king  of  Unyoro,  as  a friendly  recognition  of  their  supe- 
rior positions  in  the  world  of  great  monarchies. 

17th.  Rfimanika  next  introduced  me  to  an  old  woman  who 
came  from  the  island  of  Gasi,  situated  in  the  Little  Luta  Nzige. 
Both  her  upper  and  lower  incisors  had  been  extracted,  and  her 
upper  lip  perforated  by  a number  of  small  holes,  extending  in  an 
arch  from  one  corner  to  the  other.  This  interesting  but  ugly  old 
lady  narrated  the  circumstances  by  which  she  had  been  enslaved, 
and  then  sent  by  Kamrasi  as  a curiosity  to  Rumanika,  who  had 


Dec.] 


KAEAGUE. 


231 


ever  since  kept  her  as  a servant  in  his  palace.  A man  from 
Ruanda  then  told  us  of  the  Wilyanwantu  (men-eaters),  who  dis- 
dained all  food  but  human  flesh ; and  Rumanika  confirmed  the 
statement.  Though  I felt  very  skeptical  about  it,  I could  not 
help  thinking  it  a curious  coincidence  that  the  position  they  were 
said  to  occupy  agreed  with  Petherick’s  Nyam  Nyams  (men-eat- 
ers). 

Of  far  more  interest  were  the  results  of  a conversation  which  I 
had  with  another  of  Kamrasi’s  servants,  a man  of  Amara,  as  it 
threw  some  light  upon  certain  statements  made  by  Mr.  Leon  of 
the  people  of  Amara  being  Christians.  He  said  they  bore  single 
holes  in  the  centres  both  of  their  upper  and  lower  lips,  as  well  as 
in  the  lobes  of  both  of  their  ears,  in  which  they  wear  small  brass 
rings.  They  live  near  the  ISPyanza — where  it  is  connected  by  a 
strait  with  a salt  lake,  and  drained  by  a river  to  the  northward- 
in  comfortable  houses,  built  like  the  tembes  of  Unyamuezi.  When 
killing  a cow,  they  kneel  down  in  an  attitude  of  prayer,  with  both 
hands  together,  held  palm  upward,  and  utter  Zu,  a word  the 
meaning  of  which  he  did  not  know.  I questioned  him  to  try  if 
the  word  had  any  trace  of  a Christian  meaning — for  instance,  as 
a corruption  of  Jesu — but  without  success.  Circumcision  is  not 
known  among  them,  neither  have  they  any  knowledge  of  God  or 
a soul.  A tribe  called  Wakuavi,  who  are  white,  and  described 
as  not  unlike  myself,  often  came  over  the  water  and  made  raids 
on  their  cattle,  using  the  double-edged  sime  as  their  chief  weapon 
of  war.  These  attacks  were  as  often  resented,  and  sometimes  led 
the  Wamara  in  pursuit  a long  way  into  their  enemy’s  country, 
where,  at  a place  called  Kisiguisi,  they  found  men  robed  in  red 
cloths.  Beads  were  imported,  he  thought,  both  from,  the  east  and 
from  Ukidi.  Associated  with  the  countries  Masau  or  Masai,  and 
Usamburu,  which  he  knew,  there  was  a large  mountain,  the  exact 
position  of  which  he  could  not  describe. 

I took  down  many  words  of  his  language,  and  found  they  cor- 
responded with  the  North  African  dialects,  as  spoken  by  the  peo- 
ple of  Kidi,  Gani,  and  Madi.  The  southerners,  speaking  of  these, 
would  call  them  Wakidi,  "VVagani,  and  Wamadi,  but  among  them- 
selves the  syllable  wa  is  not  prefixed,  as  in  the  southern  dialects, 
to  signify  people.  Rumanika,  who  appeared  immensely  delighted 
as  he  assisted  me  in  putting  the  questions  I wanted,  and  saw  me 
note  them  down  in  my  book,  was  more  confirmed  than  ever  in 
the  truth  of  my  stories  that  I came  from  the  north,  and  thought 


232 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


as  the  beads  came  to  Amara,  so  should  I be  able  to  open  the  road 
and  bring  him  more  visitors.  This  he  knew  was  his  only  chance 
of  ever  seeing  me  any  more,  for  I swore  I would  never  go  back 
through  Usui,  so  greatly  did  I feel  the  indignities  imposed  on  me 
by  Suwarora. 

18< th.  To  keep  the  king  in  good  humor,  I now  took  a table- 
knife,  spoon,  and  fork  to  the  palace,  which,  after  their  several  uses 
were  explained,  were  consigned  to  his  curiosity-box.  Still  Ku- 
manika  could  not  understand  how  it  was  I spent  so  much  and 
traveled  so  far,  or  how  it  happened  such  a great  country  as  ours 
could  be  ruled  by  a woman.  He  asked  the  queen’s  name,  how 
many  children  she  had,  and  the  mode  of  succession ; then,  when 
fully  satisfied,  led  the  way  to  show  me  what  his  father  Dagara 
had  done  when  wishing  to  know  of  what  the  centre  of  the  earth 
was  composed.  At  the  back  of  the  palace  a deep  ditch  was  cut, 
several  yards  long,  the  end  of  which  was  carried  by  a subterra- 
nean passage  into  the  palace,  where  it  was  ended  off  with  a cavern 
led  into  by  a very  small  aperture.  It  then  appeared  that  Da- 
gara, having  failed,  in  his  own  opinion,  to  arrive  any  nearer  to 
the  object  in  view,  gave  the  excavating  up  as  a bad  job,  and 
turned  the  cave  into  a mysterious  abode,  where  it  was  confidently 
asserted  he  spent  many  days  without  eating  or  drinking,  and 
turned  sometimes  into  a young  man,  and  then  an  old  one,  alter- 
nately, as  the  humor  seized  him. 

19 th  to  22 d.  On  the  19th  I went  fishing,  but  without  success, 
for  they  said  the  fish  would  not  take  in  the  lake ; and  on  the  fol- 
lowing day,  as  Grant’s  recovery  seemed  hopeless,  for  a long  time 
at  least,  I went  with  all  the  young  princes  to  see  what  I could  do 
with  the  hippopotami  in  the  lake,  said  to  inhabit  the  small  island 
of  Conty.  The  party  was  an  exceedingly  merry  one.  We  went 
off  to  the  island  in  several  canoes,  and  at  once  found  an  immense 
number  of  crocodiles  basking  in  the  sun,  but  not  a single  hippo- 
potamus was  in  sight.  The  princes  then,  thinking  me  “green” 
at  this  kind  of  sport,  said  the  place  was  enchanted,  but  I need  not 
fear,  for  they  would  bring  them  out  to  my  feet  by  simply  calling 
out  certain  names,  and  this  was  no  sooner  done  than  four  old  and 
one  young  one  came  immediately  in  front  of  us.  It  seemed  quite 
a sin  to  touch  them,  they  looked  all  so  innocent;  but  as  the  king 
wanted  to  try  me  again,  I gave  one  a ball  on  the  head  which  sent 
him  under,  never  again  to  be  seen,  for  on  the  22d,  by  which  time 
I supposed  he  ought  to  have  risen  inflated  with  gases,  the  king 


Dec.] 


KAKAGUE. 


233 


sent  out  his  men  to  look  out  for  him ; but  they  returned  to  say 
that,  while  all  the  rest  were  in  the  old  place,  that  one,  in  particu- 
lar, could  not  be  found. 

On  this  K’yengo,  who  happened  to  be  present  while  our  inter- 
view lasted,  explained  that  the  demons  of  the  deep  were  annoyed 
with  me  for  intruding  on  their  preserves  without  having  the 
courtesy  to  commemorate  the  event  by  the  sacrifice  of  a goat  or 
a cow.  Rumanika  then,  at  my  suggestion,  gave  Knanaji  the  re- 
volving pistol  I first  gave  him,  but  not  without  a sharp  rebuke 
for  his  having  had  the  audacity  to  beg  a gun  of  me  in  considera- 
tion of  his  being  a sportsman.  We  then  went  into  a discourse  on 
astrology,  when  the  intelligent  Rumanika  asked  me  if  the  same 
sun  we  saw  one  day  appeared  again,  or  whether  fresh  suns  came 
every  day,  and  whether  or  not  the  moon  made  different  faces,  to 
laugh  at  us  mortals  on  earth. 

23c?  and  2-ith.  This  day  was  spent  by  the  king  introducing  me 
to  his  five  fat  wives,  to  show  with  what  esteem  he  was  held  by 
all  the  different  kings  of  the  countries  surrounding.  From  Mpo- 
roro — which,  by-the-by,  is  a republic — he  was  wedded  to  Kaogez, 
the  daughter  of  Kahaya,  who  is  the  greatest  chief  in  the  country; 
from  Unyoro  he  received  Kaiiyangi,  Kamrasi’s  daughter;  from 
iSTkole,  Ivambiri,  the  late  Kasiyonga’s  daughter;  from  Utumbi, 
Kirangu,  the  late  Kiteimbua’s  daughter;  and,  lastly,  the  daughter 
of  Chiuarungi,  his  head  cook. 

After  presenting  Rumanika  with  an  India-rubber  band — which, 
as  usual,  amused  him  immensely — for  the  honor  he  had  done  me 
in  showing  me  his  wives,  a party  of  Waziwa,  who  had  brought 
some  ivory  from  Kidi,  came  to  pay  their  respects  to  him.  On 
being  questioned  by  me,  they  said  that  they  once  saw  some  men 
like  my  Wanguana  there;  they  had  come  from  the  north  to 
trade,  but,  though  they  carried  fire-arms,  they  were  all  killed  by 
the  people  of  Kidi.  This  was  famous;  it  corroborated  what  I 
knew,  but  could  not  convince  others  of,  that  traders  could  find 
their  way  up  to  Kidi  by  the  Kile.  It  in  a manner  explained  also 
how  it  was  that  Kamrasi,  some  years  before,  had  obtained  some 
pink  beads,  of  a variety  the  Zanzibar  merchants  had  never  thought 
of  bringing  into  the  country.  Bombay  was  now  quite  convinced, 
and  we  all  became  transported  with  joy,  until  Rumanika,  reflect- 
ing on  the  sad  state  of  Grant’s  leg,  turned  that  joy  into  grief  by 
saying  that  the  rules  of  Uganda  are  so  strict  that  no  one  who  is 
sick  could  enter  the  country.  “ To  show,”  he  said,  “how  absurd 


234 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


they  are,  your  donkey  would  not  be  permitted  because  be  bas  no 
trowsers ; and  you  even  will  have  to  put  on  a gown,  as  your  un- 
mentionables will  be  considered  indecorous.”  I now  asked  Eu- 
manika  if  be  would  assist  me  in  replenishing  my  fast-ebbing  store 
of  beads  by  selling  tusks  to  the  Arabs  at  Kufro,  when  for  every 
35  lb.  weight  I would  give  him  $50  by  orders  on  Zanzibar,  and 
would  insure  him  from  being  cheated  by  sending  a letter  of  ad- 
vice to  our  consul  residing  there.  At  first  he  demurred  on  the 
high-toned  principle  that  he  could  not  have  any  commercial  deal- 
ings with  myself ; but,  at  the  instigation  of  Bombay  and  Baraka, 
who  viewed  it  in  its  true  character,  as  tending  merely  to  assist  my 
journey  in  the  best  manner  he  could,  without  any  sacrifice  to 
dignity,  he  eventually  yielded,  and,  to  prove  his  earnestness,  sent 
me  a large  tusk,  with  a notice  that  his  ivory  was  not  kept  in  the 
palace,  but  with  his  officers,  and  as  soon  as  they  could  collect  it, 
so  soon  I should  get  it. 

Rumanika,  on  hearing  that  it  was  our  custom  to  celebrate  the 

birth  of  our  Savior  with  a good  feast  of  beef,  sent  us 

Christmas  Day.  T . , . , . . . . .. 

an  ox.  I immediately  paid  him  a visit  to  oner  the 
compliments  of  the  season,  and  at  the  same  time  regretted,  much 
to  his  amusement,  that  he,  as  one  of  the  old  stock  of  Abyssinians, 
who  are  the  oldest  Christians  on  record,  should  have  forgotten 
this  rite ; but  I hoped  the  time  would  come  when,  by  making  it 
known  that  his  tribe  had  lapsed  into  a state  of  heathenism,  white 
teachers  would  be  induced  to  set  it  all  to  rights  again.  At  this 
time  some  Wahaiya  traders  (who  had  been  invited  at  my  request 
by  Rumanika)  arrived.  Like  the  Waziwa,  they  had  traded  with 
Kidi,  and  they  not  only  confirmed  what  the  Waziwa  had  said, 
but  added  that,  when  trading  in  those  distant  parts,  they  heard 
of  Wanguana  coming  in  vessels  to  trade  to  the  north  of  Unyoro; 
but  the  natives  there  were  so  savage,  they  only  fought  with  these 
foreign  traders.  A man  of  Ruanda  now  informed  us  that  the 
cowrie-shells,  so  plentiful  in  that  country,  come  there  from  the 
other  or  western  side,  but  he  could  not  tell  whence  they  were 
originally  obtained.  Rumanika  then  told  me  Suwarora  had  been 
so  frightened  by  the  Watuta,  and  their  boastful  threats  to  demol- 
ish Usui  bit  by  bit,  reserving  him  only  as  a titbit  for  the  end,  that 
he  wanted  a plot  of  ground  in  Karague  to  preserve  his  property 
in. 

2 6th,  27  th , and  28th.  Some  other  travelers  from  the  north  again 
informed  us  that  they  had  heard  of  Wanguana  who  attempted  to 


Dec.] 


EARAGUE. 


235 


trade  in  Gani  and  Chopi,  but  were  killed  by  the  natives.  I now 
assured  Rumanika  that  in  two  or  three  years  he  would  have  a 
greater  trade  with  Egypt  than  he  ever  could  have  with  Zanzibar; 
for,  when  I opened  the  road,  all  those  men  he  heard  of  would 
swarm  up  here  to  visit  him.  He,  however,  only  laughed  at  my 
folly  in  proposing  to  go  to  a place  of  which  all  I heard  was  mere- 
ly that  every  stranger  who  went  there  was  killed.  He  began  to 
show  a disinclination  to  allow  my  going  there,  and  though  from 
the  most  friendly  intention,  this  view  was  alarming,  for  one  word 
from  him  could  have  ruined  my  projects.  As  it  was,  I feared  my 
followers  might  take  fright  and  refuse  to  advance  with  me.  I 
thought  it  good  policy  to  talk  of  there  being  many  roads  leading 
through  Africa,  so  that  Rumanika  might  see  he  had  not  got,  as 
he  thought,  the  sole  key  to  the  interior.  I told  him  again  of  cer- 
tain views  I once  held  of  coming  to  see  him  from  the  north  up 
the  Kile,  and  from  the  east  through  the  Masai.  He  observed 
that,  “ To  open  either  of  those  routes,  you  would  require  at  least 
two  hundred  guns.”  He  would,  however,  do  something  when 
we  returned  from  Uganda;  for,  as  Mtesa  followed  his  advice  in 
every  thing,  so  did  Kamrasi,  for  both  held  the  highest  opinion  of 
him. 

The  conversation  then  turning  on  London,  and  the  way  men 
and  carriages  moved  up  the  streets  like  strings  of  ants  on  their 
migrations,  Rumanika  said  the  villages  in  Ruanda  were  of  enor- 
mous extent,  and  the  people  great  sportsmen,  for  they  turned  out 
in  multitudes,  with  small  dogs  on  whose  necks  were  tied  bells, 
and  blowing  horns  themselves,  to  hunt  leopards.  They  were, 
however,  highly  superstitious,  and  would  not  allow  any  strangers 
to  enter  their  country ; for  some  years  ago,  when  some  Arabs 
went  there,  a great  drought  and  famine  set  in,  which  they  attrib- 
uted to  evil  influences  brought  by  them,  and,  turning  them  out 
of  their  country,  said  they  would  never  admit  any  of  their  like 
among  them  again.  I said,  in  return,  I thought  his  Wanyambo 
just  as  superstitious,  for  I observed,  while  walking  one  day,  that 
they  had  placed  a gourd  on  the  path,  and  .on  inquiry  found  they 
had  done  so  to  gain  the  sympathy  of  all  passers-by  to  their  crop 
close  at  hand,  which  was  blighted,  imagining  that  the  voice  of 
the  sympathizer  heard  by  the  spirits  would  induce  them  to  relent, 
and  restore  a healthy  tone  to  the  crop. 

During  this  time  an  interesting  case  was  brought  before  us  for 
judgment.  Two  men,  having  married  one  woman,  laid  claim  to 


236 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1861. 


her  child,  which,  as  it  was  a male  one,  belonged  to  the  father. 
Baraka  was  appointed  the  umpire,  and  immediately  comparing 
the  infant’s  face  with  those  of  its  claimants,  gave  a decision  which 
all  approved  of  but  the  loser.  It  was  pronounced  amid  peals  of 
laughter  from  my  men ; for,  whenever  any  little  excitement  is 
going  forward,  the  Wanguana  all  rush  to  the  scene  of  action  to 
give  their  opinions,  and  joke  over  it  afterward. 

29 th  and  30th.  On  telling  Rumanika  this  story  next  morning, 
he  said,  “Many  funny  things  happen  in  Karague ;”  and  related 
some  domestic  incidents,  concluding  with  the  moral  that  “ Mar- 
riage in  Karagud  was  a mere  matter  of  money.”  Cows,  sheep, 
and  slaves  have  to  be  given  to  the  father  for  the  value  of  his 
daughter;  but  if  she  finds  she  has  made  a mistake,  she  can  return 
the  dowry-money  and  gain  her  release.  The  Wahuma,  although 
they  keep  slaves  and  marry  with  pure  negroes,  do  not  allow  their 
daughters  to  taint  their  blood  by  marrying  out  of  their  clan.  In 
warfare  it  is  the  rule  that  the  wahinda,  or  princes,  head  their  own 
soldiers,  and  set  them  the  example  of  courage,  when,  after  firing 
a few  arrows,  they  throw  their  bows  away,  and  close  at  once  with 
their  spears  and  assegais.  Life  is  never  taken  in  Karague  either 
for  murder  or  cowardice,  as  they  value  so  much  their  Wahuma 
breed  ; but  for  all  offenses,  fines  of  cows  are  exacted  according  to 
the  extent  of  the  crime. 

31sL  Ever  proud  of  his  history  since  I had  traced  his  descent 
from  Abyssinia  and  King  David,  whose  hair  was  as  straight  as 
my  own,  Rumanika  dwelt  on  my  theological  disclosures  with  the 
greatest  delight,  and  wished  to  know  what  difference  existed  be- 
tween the  Arabs  and  ourselves ; to  which  Baraka  replied,  as  the 
best  means  of  making  him  understand,  that  while  the  Arabs  had 
only  one  Book,  we  had  two;  to  which  I added,  Yes,  that  is  true 
in  a sense ; but  the  real  merits  lie  in  the  fact  that  we  have  got  the 
better  hook,  as  may  be  inferred  from  the  obvious  fact  that  we  are 
more  prosperous,  and  their  superiors  in  all  things,  as  I Would 
prove  to  him  if  he  would  allow  me  to  take  one  of  his  sons  home 
to  learn  that  book ; for  then  he  would  find  his  tribe,  after  a while, 
better  off  than  the  Arabs  are.  Much  delighted,  he  said  he  would 
be  very  glad  to  give  me  two  boys  for  that  purpose. 

Then,  changing  the  subject,  I pressed  Rumanika,  as  he  said  he 
had  no  idea  of  a God  or  future  state,  to  tell  me  what  advantage 
he~expected  from  sacrificing  a cow  yearly  at  his  father’s  grave. 
He  laughingly  replied  he  did  not  know,  but  he  hoped  he  jnight 


KARAGUE. 


237 


Jan.] 

be  favored  with  better  crops  if  be  did  so.  He  also  placed  pombe 
and  grain,  he  said,  for  the  same  reason,  before  a large  stone  on  the 
hill-side,  although  it  could  not  eat,  or  make  any  use  of  it ; but  the 
coast-men  were  of  the  same  belief  as  himself,  and  so  were  all  the 
natives.  Ho  one  in  Africa,  as  far  as  he  knew,  doubted  the  power 
of  magic  and  spells ; and  if  a fox  barked  when  he  was  leading  an 
army  to  battle,  he  would  retire  at  once,  knowing  that  this  prog- 
nosticated evil.  There  were  many  other  animals,  and  lucky  and 
unlucky  birds,  which  all  believed  in. 

I then  told  him  it  was  fortunate  he  had  no  disbelievers  like  us 
to  contend  with  in  battle,  for  we,  instead  of  trusting  to  luck  and 
such  omens,  put  our  faith  only  in  skill  and  pluck,  which  Baraka 
elucidated  from  his  military  experience  in  the  wars  in  British  In- 
dia. Lastly,  I explained  to  him  how  England  formerly  was  as 
unenlightened  as  Africa,  and  believing  in  the  same  sort  of  super- 
stitions, and  the  inhabitants  were  all  as  naked  as  his  skin-wearing 
Wanyambo ; but  now,  since  they  had  grown  wiser,  and  saw 
through  such  impostures,  they  were  the  greatest  men  in  the  world. 
He  said,  fojafhe  future  he  would  disregard  what  the  Arabs  said, 
and  trust  to  my  doctrines,  for  without  doubt  he  had  never  seen 
such  a wise  man  as  myself ; and  the  Arabs  themselves  confirmed 
this  when  they  told  him  that  all  their  beads  and  cloths  came  from 
the  land  of  the  Wazungu,  or  white  men. 

lsif,  2d,  and  3 d.  The  new  year  was  ushered  in  by  the  most  ex- 
citing intelligence,  which  drove  us  half  wild  with  delight,  for  we 
fully  believed  Mr.  Petherick  was  indeed  on  his  road  up  the  Kile, 
endeavoring  to  meet  us.  It  was  this : An  officer  of  Rumanika’s, 
who  had  been  sent  four  years  before  on  a mission  to  Kamrasi,  had 
just  then  returned  with  a party  of  Kamrasi’s  who  brought  ivory 
for  sale  to  the  Arabs  at  Kufro,  along  with  a vaunting  commission 
to  inform  Rumanika  that  Kamrasi  had  foreign  visitors  as  well  as 
himself.  They  had  not  actually  come  into  Unyoro,  but  were  in 
his  dependency,  the  country  of  Gani,  coming  up  the  Kile  in  ves- 
sels. They  had  been  attacked  by  the  Gani  people,  and  driven 
back  with  considerable  loss  both  of  men  and  property,  although 
they  were  in  sailing  vessels,  and  fired  guns  which  even  broke 
down  the  trees  on  the  banks.  Some  of  their  property  had  been 
brought  to  him,  and  he,  in  return,  had  ordered  his  subjects  not  to 
molest  them,  but  allow  them  to  come  on  to  him.  Rumanika  en- 
joyed this  news  as  much  as  myself,  especially  when  I told  him 
of  Petherick’s  promise  to  meet  us,  just  as  these  men  said  he  was 


238 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


trying  to  do  ; and  more  especially  so  wlien  I told  him  that  if  he 
would  assist  me  in  trying  to  communicate  with  Petherick,  the  lat- 
ter would  either  come  here  himself,  or  send  one  of  his  men,  con- 
veying a suitable  present,  while  I was  away  in  Uganda,  and  then, 
in  the  end,  we  would  all  go  off  to  Kamrasi’s  together. 

Ath.  Entering  warmly  into  the  spirit  of  this  important  intelli- 
gence, Rumanika  inquired  into  its  truth,  and,  finding  no  reason 
to  doubt  it,  said  he  would  send  some  men  back  with  Kamrasi’s 
men,  if  I could  have  patience  until  they  were  ready  to  go.  There 
would  be  no  danger,  as  Ivamrasi  was  his  brother-in-law,  and 
would  do  all  that  he  told  him. 

I now  proposed  to  send  Baraka,  who,  ashamed  to  cry  off,  said 
he  would  go  with  Rumanika’s  officers  if  I allowed  him  a compan- 
ion of  his  own  choosing,  who  would  take  care  of  him  if  he  got 
sick  on  the  way,  otherwise  he  should  be  afraid  they  would  leave 
him  to  die,  like  a dog,  in  the  jungles.  We  consoled  him  by  as- 
senting to  the  companion  he  wished,  and  making  Rumanika  re- 
sponsible that  no  harm  should  come  to  him  from  any  of  the  risks 
which  his  imagination  conjured  up.  Riimanika  then  gave  him 
and  Uledi,  his  selected  companion,  some  sheets  of  mbugu,  in  order 
that  they  might  disguise  themselves  as  his  officers  while  crossing 
the  territories  of  the  King  of  Uganda.  On  inquiring  as  to  the 
reason  of  this,  it  transpired  that,  to  reach  Unyoro,  the  party  would 
have  to  cross  a portion  of  Uddu,  which  the  late  king  Sunna,  on 
annexing  that  country  to  Uganda,  had  divided,  not  in  halves,  but 
by  alternate  bands  running  transversely  from  Nkole  to  the  Vic- 
toria N’yanza. 

5th  and  6th.  To  keep  Riimanika  up  to  the  mark,  I introduced 
to  him  Saidi,  one  of  my  men,  who  was  formerly  a slave,  captured 
in  AValamo,  on  the  borders  of  Abyssinia,  to  show  him,  by  his  sim- 
ilarity to  the  Wahiima,  how  it  was  I had  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  he  was  of  the  same  race.  Saidi  told  him  his  tribe  kept  cattle 
with  the  same  stupendous  horns  as  those  of  the  Wahiima ; and 
also  that,  in  the  same  manner,  they  all  mixed  blood  with  milk  for 
their  dinners,  which,  to  his  mind,  confirmed  my  statement.  At 
night,  as  there  was  a partial  eclipse  of  the  moon,  all  the  Wangu- 
ana  marched  up  and  down  from  Rumanika’s  to  Knanaji’s  huts, 
singing  and  beating  our  tin  cooking-pots  to  frighten  off  the  spirit 
of  the  sun  from  consuming  entirely  the  chief  object  of  reverence, 
the  moon. 

1th.  Our  spirits  were  now  farther  raised  by  the  arrival  of  a 


KAKAGUE. 


239 


Jan.] 

semi-Hindu-Suahili,  named  Juma,  who  had  just  returned  from  a 
visit  to  the  King  of  Uganda,  bringing  back  with  him  a large  pres- 
ent of  ivory  and  slaves ; for  he  said  he  had  heard  from  the  king 
of  our  intention  to  visit  him,  and  that  he  had  dispatched  officers 
to  call  us  immediately.  This  intelligence  delighted  Kumanika  as 
much  as  it  did  us,  and  he  no  sooner  heard  it  than  he  said,  with 
ecstasies,  “ I will  open  Africa,  since  the  white  men  desire  it ; for 
did  not  Dagara  command  us  to  show  deference  to  strangers  ?” 
Then,  turning  to  me,  he  added,  “ My  only  regret  is,  you  will  not 
take  something  as  a return  for  the  great  expenses  you  have  been 
put  to  in  coming  to  visit  me.”  The  expense  was  admitted,  for  I 
had  now  been  obliged  to  purchase  from  the  Arabs  upward  of 
£400  worth  of  beads,  to  keep  such  a store  in  reserve  for  my  re- 
turn from  Uganda  as  would  enable  me  to  push  on  to  Gondokoro. 
I thought  this  necessary,  as  every  report  that  arrived  from  Unya- 
muezi  only  told  us  of  farther  disasters  with  the  merchants  in  that 
country.  Sheikh  Said  was  there  even  then  with  my  poor  Hot- 
tentots, unable  to  convey  my  post  to  the  coast. 

8th  to  10th.  At  last  we  heard  the  familiar  sound  of  the  Uganda 
drum.  Maula,  a royal  officer,  with  a large  escort  of  smartly- 
dressed  men,  women,  and  boys,  leading  their  dogs  and  playing 
their  reeds,  announced  to  our  straining  ears  the  welcome  intelli- 
gence that  their  king  had  sent  them  to  call  us.  K’yamgundu, 
who  had  seen  us  in  Usui,  had  marched  on  to  inform  the  king  of 
our  advance  and  desire  to  see  him,  and  he,  intensely  delighted  at 
the  prospect  of  having  white  men  for  his  guests,  desired  no  time 
should  be  lost  in  our  coming  on.  Maula  told  us  that  his  officers 
had  orders  to  supply  us  with  every  thing  we  wanted  while  pass- 
ing through  his  country,  and  that  there  would  be  nothing  to  pay. 

One  thing  only  now  embarrassed  me — Grant  was  worse,  with- 
out hope  of  recovery  for  at  least  one  or  two  months.  This  large 
body  of  Waganda  could  not  be  kept  waiting.  To  get  on  as  fast 
as  possible  was  the  only  chance  of  ever  bringing  the  journey  to  a 
successful  issue  ; so,  unable  to  help  myself,  with  great  remorse  at 
another  separation,  on  the  following  day  I consigned  my  compan- 
ion, with  several  Wan  guana,  to  the  care  of  my  friend  Kumanika. 
I then  separated  ten  loads  of  beads  and  thirty  copper  wires  for  my 
expenses  in  Uganda ; wrote  a letter  to  Petherick,  which  I gave  to 
Baraka ; and  gave  him  and  his  companion  beads  to  last  as  money 
for  six  months,  and  also  a present  both  for  Kamrasi  and  the  Gani 
chief.  To  Nsangez  I gave  charge  of  my  collections  in  natural 


240 


TIIE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


history,  and  the  reports  of  my  progress,  addressed  to  the  Geo- 
graphical Society,  which  he  was  to  convey  to  Sheikh  Said  at 
Kaze,  for  conveyance  as  far  as  Zanzibar. 

This  business  concluded  in  camp,  I started  my  men  and  went 
to  the  palace  to  bid  adieu  to  Rumanika,  who  appointed  Rozaro, 
one  of  his  officers,  to  accompany  me  wherever  I went  in  Uganda, 
and  to  bring  me  back  safely  again.  At  Rumanika’s  request,  I 
then  gave  Mtesa’s  pages  some  ammunition  to  hurry  on  with  to  the 
great  king  of  Uganda,  as  his  majesty  had  ordered  them  to  bring 
him,  as  quickly  as  possible,  some  strengthening  powder,  and  also 
some  powder  for  his  gun.  Then,  finally,  to  Maula,  also  under  Ru- 
manika’s  instructions,  I gave  two  copper  wires  and  five  bundles 
of  beads ; and,  when  all  was  completed,  set  out  on  the  march,  per- 
fectly sure  in  my  mind  that  before  very  long  I should  settle  the 
great  Nile  problem  forever;  and,  with  this  consciousness,  only 
hoping  that  Grant  would  be  able  to  join  me  before  I should  have 
to  return  again,  for  it  was  never  supposed  for  a moment  that  it 
was  possible  I ever  could  go  north  from  Uganda.  Rumanika  was 
the  most  resolute  in  this  belief,  as  the  kings  of  Uganda,  ever  since 
that  country  was  detached  from  Unyoro,  had  been  making  con- 
stant raids,  seizing  cattle  and  slaves  from  the  surrounding  coun- 
tries. 


HISTORY  OF  THE  WAHUMA. 


241 


CHAPTER  IX. 

HISTORY"  OF  THE  WAHUMA. 

The  Abyssinians  and  Gallas. — Theory  of  Conquest  of  inferior  by  superior  Races. — 
The  Wahuma  and  the  Kingdom  of  Kittara. — Legendary  History  of  the  Kingdom 
of  Uganda. — Its  Constitution,  and  the  Ceremonials  of  the  Court. 

The  reader  has  now  had  my  experience  of  several  of  the  minor 
states,  and  has  presently  to  be  introduced  to  Uganda,  the  most 
powerful  state  in  the  ancient  but  now  divided  great  kingdom  of 
Kittara.  I shall  have  to  record  a residence  of  considerable  dura- 
tion at  the  court  there  ; and,  before  entering  on  it,  I propose  to 
state  my  theory  of  the  ethnology  of  that  part  of  Africa  inhabited 
by  the  people  collectively  styled  Wahuma,  otherwise  Gallas  or 
Abyssinians.  My  theory  is  founded  on  the  traditions  of  the  sev- 
eral nations,  as  checked  by  my  own  observation  of  what  I saw 
when  passing  through  them.  It  appears  impossible  to  believe, 
judging  from  the  physical  appearance  of  the  Wahuma,  that  they 
•can  be  of  any  other  race  than  the  semi-Shem-Hamitic  of  Ethiopia. 
The  traditions  of  the  imperial  government  of  Abyssinia  go  as  far 
back  as  the  scriptural  age  of  King  David,  from  whom  the  late 
reigning  king  of  Abyssinia,  Sahela  Selassie,  traced  his  descent. 

Most  people  appear  to  regard  the  Abyssinians  as  a different 
race  from  the  Gallas,  but,  I believe,  without  foundation.  Both 
alike  are  Christians  of  the  greatest  antiquity.  It  is  true  that, 
while  the  aboriginal  Abyssinians  in  Abyssinia  proper  are  more 
commonly  agriculturists,  the  Gallas  are  chiefly  a pastoral  people ; 
but  I conceive  that  the  two  may  have  had  the  same  relations  with 
each  other  which  I found  the  Wahuma  kings  and  Wahuma  herds- 
men holding  with  the  agricultural  Wazinza  in  Uzinza,  the  Wan- 
yambo  in  Karagub,  the  Waganda  in  Uganda,  and  the  Wanj^oro  in 
Unyoro. 

In  these  countries  the  government  is  in  the  hands  of  foreigners, 
who  had  invaded  and  taken  possession  of  them,  leaving  the  agri- 
cultural aborigines  to  till  the  ground,  while  the  junior  members 
of  the  usurping  clans  herded  cattle— just  as  in  Abyssinia,  or  wher- 
ever the  Abyssinians  or  Gallas  have  shown  themselves.  There  a 

Q • 


242 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


pastoral  clan  from  the  Asiatic  side  took  the  government  of  Abys- 
sinia from  its  people  and  have  ruled  over  them  ever  since,  chang- 
ing, by  intermarriage  with  the  Africans,  the  texture  of  their  hair 
and  color  to  a certain  extent,  but  still  maintaining  a high  stamp 
of  Asiatic  feature,  of  which  a marked  characteristic  is  a bridged 
instead  of  bridgeless  nose. 

It  may  be  presumed  that  there  once  existed  a foreign  but  com- 
pact government  in  Abyssinia,  which,  becoming  great  and  power- 
ful, sent  out  armies  on  all  sides  of  it,  especially  to  the  south,  south- 
east, and  west,  slave-hunting  and  devastating  wherever  they  went, 
and  in  process  of  time  becoming  too  great  for  one  ruler  to  control. 
Junior  members  of  the  royal  family  then,  pushing  their  fortunes, 
dismembered  themselves  from  the  parent  stock,  created  separate 
governments,  and,  for  reasons  which  can  not  be  traced,  changed 
their  names.  In  this  manner  we  may  suppose  that  the  Gallas 
separated  from  the  Abyssinians,  and  located  themselves  to  the 
south  of  their  native  land. 

Other  Abyssinians,  or  possibly  Gallas — it  matters  not  which 
they  were  or  what  we  call  them — likewise  detaching  themselves, 
fought  in  the  Somali  country,  subjugated  that  land,  were  defeated 
to  a certain  extent  by  the  Arabs  from  the  opposite  continent,  and 
tried  their  hands  south  as  far  as  the  Jub  Kiver,  where  they  also 
left  many  of  their  numbers  behind.  Again  they  attacked  Om- 
wita  (the  present  Mombas),  were  repulsed,  were  lost  sight  of  in 
the  interior  of  the  continent,  and,  crossing  the  Nile  close  to  its 
source,  discovered  the  rich  pasture-lands  of  Unyoro,  and  founded 
the  great  kingdom  of  Ivittara,  where  they  lost  their  religion,  for- 
got their  language,  extracted  their  lower  incisors  like  the  natives, 
changed  their  national  name  to  Wahuma,  and  no  longer  remem- 
bered the  names  of  Hubshi  or  Galla,  though  even  the  present 
reigning  kings  retain  a singular  traditional  account  of  their  hav- 
ing once  been  half  white  and  half  black,  with  hair  on  the  white 
side  straight,  and  on  the  black  side  frizzly.  It  was  a curious  in- 
dication of  the  prevailing  idea  still  entertained  by  them  of  their 
foreign  extraction,  that  it  was  surmised  in  Unyoro  that  the  ap- 
proach of  us  white  men  into  their  country  from  both  sides  at  once 
augured  an  intention  on  our  part  to  take  back  the  country  from 
them.  Believing,  as  they  do,  that  Africa  formerly  belonged  to 
Europeans,  from  whom  it  was  taken  by  negroes  with  whom  thejr 
had  allied  themselves,  the  Wahuma  make  themselves  a small  res- 
idue of  the  original  European  stock  driven  from  the  land ; an  idea 


HISTORY  OF  THE  WAHUMA. 


243 


which  seems  natural  enough  when  we  consider  that  the  Wahiima 
are,  in  numbers,  quite  insignificant  compared  with  the  natives. 

Again,  the  princes  of  Unjoro  are  called  Wawitu,  and  point  to 
the  north  when  asked  where  their  country  Uwitu.  is  situated, 
doubtfully  saying,  wrhen  questioned  about  its  distance,  “ How  can 
we  tell  circumstances  which  took  place  in  our  forefathers’  times? 
we  only  think  it  is  somewhere  near  your  country.”  Although, 
however,  this  very  interesting  people,  the  Wahiima,  delight  in 
supposing  themselves  to  be  of  European  origin,  they  are  forced 
to  confess,  on  closer  examination,  that  although  they  came  in  the 
first  instance  from  the  doubtful  north,  they  came  latterly  from  the 
east,  as  part  of  a powerful  Wahiima  tribe,  beyond  Kidi,  who  excel 
in  arms,  and  are  so  fierce  no  Kidi  people,  terrible  in  war  as  these 
too  are  described  to  be,  can  stand  against  them.  This  points,  if 
our  maps  are  true,  to  the  Grallas ; for  all  pastorals  in  these  people’s 
minds  are  Wahiima;  and  if  we  could  only  reconcile  ourselves  to 
the  belief  that  the  Wawitu.  derived  their  name  from  Omwita,  the 
last  place  they  attacked  on  the  east  coast  of  Africa,  then  all  would 
be  clear;  for  it  must  be  noticed  the  Wakama,  or  kings,  when  ask- 
ed to  what  race  they  owe  their  origin,  invariably  reply,  in  the  first 
place,  from  princes — giving,  for  instance,  the  titles  Wawitu  in  Un- 
yoro,  and  Wahinda  in  Karague — which  is  most  likely  caused  by 
their  never  having  been  asked  such  a close  question  before,  while 
the  idiom  of  the  language  generally  induces  them  to  call  them- 
selves after  the  name  applied  to  their  country. 

So  much  for  ethnological  conjecture.  Let  us  now  deal  with 
the  Wahiima  since  they  crossed  the  Nile  and  founded  the  king- 
dom of  Kittara,  a large  tract  of  land  bounded  by  the  Victoria 
N’yanza  and  Ivitangule  Kagera  or  River  on  the  south,  the  Nile 
on  the  east,  the  Little  Luta-Nzige  Lake*  on  the  north,  and  the 
kingdoms  of  Utumbi  and  Nkole  on  the  west. 

The  general  name  Kittara  is  gradually  becoming  extinct,  and 
is  seldom  applied  to  any  but  the  western  portions ; while  the 
northeastern,  in  which  the  capital  is  situated,  is  called  Unyoro, 
and  the  other,  Uddu.  apart  from  Uganda,  as  we  shall  presently  see. 

Nobody  has  been  able  to  inform  us  how  many  generations  old 
the  Wahiima  government  of  Unyoro  is.  The  last  three  kings  are 
Chiawambi,  N’yawongo,  and  the  present  king  Kamrasi.  In  very 
early  times  dissensions  among  the  royal  family,  probably  contend- 
ing for  the  crown,  such  as  'we  presume  must  have  occurred  in 
* I.  e.,  Dead  Locust  Lake — Luta,  dead  ; Nzige,  locust. 


244 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


Abyssinia,  separated  the  parent  stock,  and  drove  the  weaker  to 
find  refuge  in  Nkole,  where  a second  and  independent  govern- 
ment of  Wahiima  was  established.  Since  then,  twenty  genera- 
tions ago,  it  is  said  the  Wahiima  government  of  Karague  was  es- 
tablished in  the  same  manner.  The  conspirator  Rohinda  fled  from 
Kittara  to  Karague  with  a large  party  of  Wahiima;  sought  the 
protection  of  Nono,  who,  a Myambo,  was  king  over  the  Wanyarn- 
bo  of  that  country ; ingratiated  himself  and  his  followers  with 
the  Wanyambo ; and,  finally,  designing  a crown  for  himself,  gave 
a feast,  treacherously  killed  King  Nono  in  his  cups,  and  set  him- 
self on  the  throne,  the  first  mkama  or  king  who  ruled  in  Kara- 
gue. Rohinda  was  succeeded  by  Ntare,  then  Rohinda  II.,  then 
JSTtard  II.,  which  order  only  changed  with  the  eleventh  reign, 
when  Rusatira  ascended  the  throne,  and  was  succeeded  by  Me- 
hinga,  then  Kalimera,  then  Ntard  VII.,  then  Rohinda  VI.,  then 
Dagara,  and  now  Rumanika.  During  this  time  the  Wahuma 
were  well  south  of  the  equator,  and  still  destined  to  spread. 
Brothers  again  contended  for  the  crown  of  their  father,  and  the 
weaker  took  refuge  in  Uzinza,  where  the  fourth  Wahuma  govern- 
ment was  created,  and  so  remained  under  one  king  until  the  last 
generation,  when  King  Ruma  died,  and  his  two  sons,  Rohinda, 
the  eldest,  and  Suwarora,  contended  for  the  crown,  but  divided 
the  country  between  them,  Rohinda  taking  the  eastern  half,  and 
Suwarora  the  western,  at  the  instigation  of  the  late  king  Dagara 
< >f  Karague. 

This  is  the  most  southerly  kingdom  of  the  Wahuma,  though 
not  the  farthest  spread  of  its  people,  for  we  find  the  Watusi,  who 
are  emigrants  from  Karague  of  the  same  stock,  overlooking  the 
Tanganyika  Lake  from  the  hills  of  Uhha,  and  tending  their  cattle 
all  over  Unyamufizi  under  the  protection  of  the  native  negro 
chiefs;  and  we  also  hear  that  the  Wapoka  of  Fipa,  south  of  the 
Rukwa  Lake,  are  the  same.  How  or  when  their  name  became 
changed  from  Wahuma  to  Watusi  no  one  is  able  to  explain ; but, 
again  deducing  the  past  from  the  present,  we  can  not  help  sus- 
pecting that,  in  the  same  way  as  this  change  has  taken  place,  the 
name  Gralla  may  have  been  changed  from  Hubshi,  and  Wahuma 
from  Dallas.  But  though  in  these  southern  regions  the  name  of 
the  clan  has  been  changed,  the  princes  still  retain  the  title  of  Wa- 
hinda  as  in  Karague,  instead  of  Wawitu  as  in  Unyoro,  and  are 
considered  of  such  noble  breed  that  many  of  the  pure  negro  chiefs 
delight  in  saying  I am  a mhinda,  or  prince,  to  the  confusion  of 


HISTORY  OF  THE  WAHUMA. 


245 


travelers,  which  confusion  is  increased  by  the  W ahiima  habits  of 
conforming  to  the  regulations  of  the  different  countries  they  adopt. 
For  instance,  the  Wahuma  of  Uganda  and  Karague,  though  so 
close  to  Unyoro,  do  not  extract  their  lower  incisors;  and  though 
the  Wanyoro  only  use  the  spear  in  war,  the  Wahuma  in  Karague 
are  the  most  expert  archers  in  Africa.  We  are  thus  left  only  the 
one  very  distinguishing  mark,  the  physical  appearance  of  this  re- 
markable race,  partaking  even  more  of  the  phlegmatic  nature  of 
the  Shemitic  father  than  the  nervous,  boisterous  temperament  of 
the  Hamitic  mother,  as  a certain  clew  to  their  Shem-Hamitic  or- 
igin. 

It  remains  to  speak  of  the  separation  of  Uddu  from  Unyoro, 
the  present  kingdom  of  Uganda,  which,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  is 
extremely  interesting,  inasmuch  as  the  government  there  is  as 
different  from  the  other  surrounding  countries  as  those  of  Europe 
are  compared  to  Asia. 

In  the  earliest  times  the  Wahuma  of  Unyoro  regarded  all  their 
lands  bordering  on  the  Victoria  Lake  as  their  garden,  owing  to 
its  exceeding  fertility,  and  imposed  the  epithet  of  Wiru,  or  slaves, 
upon  its  people,  because  they  had  to  supply  the  imperial  govern- 
ment with  food  and  clothing.  Coffee  was  conveyed  to  the  capital 
by  the  Wiru,  also  mbugu  (bark  cloaks),  from  an  inexhaustible 
fig-tree ; in  short,  the  lands  of  the  Wiru  were  famous  for  their 
rich  productions. 

Now  Wiru  in  the  northern  dialect  changes  to  Waddu  in  the 
southern ; hence  U"ddu,  the  land  of  the  slaves,  which  remained  in 
one  connected  line  from  the  Nile  to  the  Kitangule  Ivagera  until 
eight  generations  back,  when,  according  to  tradition,  a sportsman 
from  Unyoro,  by  name  Uganda,  came  with  a pack  of  dogs,  a 
woman,  a spear,  and  a shield,  hunting  -on  the  left  bank  of  Katonga 
valley,  not  far  from  the  lake.  He  was  but  a poor  man,  though  so 
successful  in  hunting  that  vast  numbers  of  the  Wiru  flocked  to 
him  for  flesh,  and  became  so  fond  of  him  as  to  invite  him  to  be 
their  king,  saying,  “ Of  what  avail  to  us  is  our  present  king,  living 
so  far  away  that  when  we  sent  him  a cow  as  a tributary  offering, 
that  cow  on  the  journey  gave  a calf,  and  the  calf  became  a cow 
and  gave  another  calf,  and  so  on,  aiid  yet  the  present  has  not 
reached  its  destination  ?” 

At  first  Uganda  hesitated,  on  the  plea  that  they  had  a king  al- 
ready; but,  on  being  farther  pressed,  consented;  when  the  people, 
hearing  his  name,  said,  “Well,  let  it  be  so;  and  for  the  future  let 


246 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


this  country  between  the  Nile  and  Katonga  be  called  Uganda, 
and  let  your  name  be  Kimera,  the  first  king  of  Uganda.” 

The  same  night  Kimera  stood  upon  a stone  with  a spear  in  his 
hand,  and  a woman  and  dog  sitting  by  his  side ; and  to  this  day 
people  assert  that  his  footprints  and  the  mark  left  by  his  spear- 
end,  as  well  as  the  seats  of  the  woman  and  dog,  are  visible.  The 
report  of  these  circumstances  soon  reached  the  great  king  of  Un- 
yoro,  who,  in  his  magnificence,  merely  said,  “ The  poor  creature 
must  be  starving;  allow  him  to  feed  there  if  he  likes.”  The 
kings  who  have  succeeded  Kimera  are,  1.  Mahanda;  2.  Katereza; 
3.  Chabago ; 4.  Simakokiro ; 5.  Kamanya ; 6.  Sunna ; 7.  Mtesa, 
not  yet  crowned. 

These  kings  have  all  carried  on  the  same  system  of  government 
as  that  commenced  by  Kimdra,  and  proved  themselves  a perfect 
terror  to  Unyoro,  as  we  shall  see  in  the  sequel.  Kimera,  sudden- 
ly risen  to  eminence,  grew  proud  and  headstrong  — formed  a 
strong  clan  around  him,  whom  he  appointed  to  be  his  Wakungu, 
or  officers — rewarded  well,  punished  severely,  and  soon  became 
magnificent.  Nothing  short  of  the  grandest  palace,  a throne  to 
sit  upon,  the  largest  harem,  the  smartest  officers,  the  best-dressed 
people,  even  a menagerie  for  pleasure — in  fact,  only  the  best  of 
every  thing  — would  content  him.  Fleets  of  boats,  not  canoes, 
were  built  for  war,  and  armies  formed,  that  the  glory  of  the  king- 
might  never  decrease.  In  short,  the  system  of  government,  ac- 
cording to  barbarous  ideas,  was  perfect.  Highways  were  cut 
from  one  extremity  of  the  country  to  the  other,  and  all  rivers 
bridged.  No  house  could  be  built  without  its  necessary  append- 
ages for  cleanliness ; no  person,  however  poor,  could  expose  his 
person ; and  to  disobey  these  laws  was  death. 

After  the  death  of  Kimera,  the  prosperity  of  Uganda  never  de- 
creased, but  rather  improved.  The  clan  of  officers  formed  by  him 
were  as  proud  of  their  emancipation  from  slavery  as  the  king 
they  had  created  was  of  his  dominion  over  them.  They  buried 
Kimera  with  state  honors,  giving  charge  of  the  body  to  the  late 
king’s  most  favorite  consort,  whose  duty  it  was  to  dry  the  corpse 
by  placing  it  on  a board  resting  on  the  mouth  of  an  earthen  open 
pot  heated  by  fire  from  below.  When  this  drying  process  was 
completed,  at  the  expiration  of  three  months,  the  lower  jaw  was 
cut  out  and  neatly  worked  over  with  beads;  the  umbilical  cord, 
which  had  been  preserved  from  birth,  was  also  worked  with 
beads.  These  were  kept  apart,  but  the  body  was  consigned  to  a 


site 


HISTORY  OF  THE  WAHUMA. 


249 


tomb,  and  guarded  ever  after  bj  this  officer  and  a certain  number 
of  the  king’s  next  most  favorite  women,  all  of  whom  planted  gar- 
dens for  their  maintenance,  and  were  restricted  from  seeing  the 
succeeding  king. 

By  his  large  establishment  of  wives,  Kimera  left  a number  of 
princes  or  Warangira,  and  as  many  princesses.  From  the  wa- 
rangira  the  wakungu  now  chose  as  their  king  the  one  whom 
they  thought  best  suited  for  the  government  of  the  country ; not 
of  too  high  rank  by  the  mother’s  side,  lest  their  selection  in  his 
pride  should  kill  them  all,  but  one  of  low  birth.  The  rest  were 
placed  with  wives  in  a suite  of  huts,  under  charge  of  a keeper,  to 
prevent  any  chance  of  intrigues  and  dissensions.  They  were  to 
enjoy  life  until  the  prince  elect  should  arrive  at  the  age  of  dis- 
cretion and  be  crowned,  when  all  but  two  of  the  princes  would 
be  burnt  to  death,  the  two  being  reserved  in  case  of  accident  as 
long  as  the  king  wanted  brother  companions,  when  one  would  be 
banished  to  Unyoro,  and  the  other  pensioned  with  suitable  pos- 
sessions in  Uganda.  The  mother  of  the  king  by  this  measure  be- 
came queen-dowager,  or  N’yamasore.  She  halved  with  her  son 
all  the  wives  of  the  deceased  king  not  stationed  at  his  grave,  tak- 
ing second  choice ; kept  up  a palace  only  little  inferior  to  her 
son’s  with  large  estates,  guided  the  prince  elect  in  the  government 
of  the  country,  and  remained  until  the  end  of  his  minority  the 
virtual  ruler  of  the  land  ; at  any  rate,  no  radical  political  changes 
could  take  place  without  her  sanction.  The  princesses  became 
the  wives  of  the  king;  no  one  else  could  marry  them. 

Both  mother  and  son  had  their  Katikiros  or  commander-in-chief, 
also  titled  Kamraviona,  as  well  as  other  officers  of  high  rank. 
Among  them,  in  due  order  of  gradation,  are  the  Ilmas,  a woman 
who  had  the  good  fortune  to  have  cut  the  umbilical  cord  at  the 
king’s  birth ; the  Sawaganzi,  queen’s  sister  and  king’s  barber ; 
Kaggao,  Pokino,  Sakibobo,  Kitunzi,  and  others,  governors  of 
provinces;  Jumba,  admiral  of  the  fleet;  Kasuju,  guardian  of  the 
king’s  sisters;  Mkuenda,  factor;  Kunsa  and  Usungu,  first  and 
second  class  executioners ; Mgemma,  commissioner  in  charge  of 
tombs;  Seruti,  brewer ; Mfumbiro,  cook ; numerous  pages  to  run 
messages  and  look  after  the  women,  and  minor  wakungu  in 
hundreds.  One  Mkungu  is  always  over  the  palace,  in  command 
of  the  Wanagalali,  or  guards,  which  are  changed  monthly;  an- 
other is  ever  in  attendance  as  seizer  of  refractory  persons.  There 
are  also  in  the  palace  almost  constantly  the  Wanangalavi,  or 


250 


THE  SOUECE  OF  THE  NILE. 


drummers ; Nsase,  pea-gourd  rattlers ; Milele,  flute-players ; Mu- 
lconderi,  clarionet  players ; also  players  on  wooden  karmonicons 
and  lap-harps,  to  which  the  players  sing  accompaniments ; and, 
lastly,  men  who  whistle  on  their  fingers — for  music  is  half  the 
amusement  of  these  courts.  Every  body  in  Uganda  is  expected 
to  keep  spears,  shields,  and  dogs,  the  Uganda  arms  and  cogni- 
zance, while  the  wakungu  are  entitled  to  drums.  There  is  also 
a Neptune  Mgussa,  or  spirit,  who  lives  in  the  depths  of  the 
N’yanza,  communicates  through  the  medium  of  his  temporal 
mkungu,  and  guides  to  a certain  extent  the  naval  destiny  of  the 
king. 

It  is  the  duty  of  all  officers,  generally  speaking,  to  attend  at 
court  as  constantly  as  possible ; should  they  fail,  they  forfeit  their 
lands,  wives,  and  all  belongings.  These  will  be  seized  and  given 
to  others  more  worthy  of  them,  as  it  is  presumed  that  either  in- 
solence or  disaffection  can  be  the  only  motive  which  would  in- 
duce any  person  to  absent  himself  for  any  length  of  time  from 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  his  sovereign.  Tidiness  in  dress  is  impera- 
tively necessary,  and  for  any  neglect  of  this  rule  the  head  may  be 
the  forfeit.  The  punishment  for  such  offenses,  however,  may  be 
commuted  by  fines  of  cattle,  goats,  fowls,  or  brass  wire.  All  acts 
of  the  king  are  counted  benefits,  for  which  he  must  be  thanked ; 
and  so  every  deed  done  to  his  subjects  is  a gift  received  by  them, 
though  it  should  assume  the  shape  of  flogging  or  fine;  for  are  not 
these,  which  make  better  men  of  them,  as  necessary  as  any  thing? 
The  thanks  are  rendered  by  groveling  on  the  ground,  flounder- 
ing about  and  whining  after  the  manner  of  happy  dogs,  after 
which  they  rise  up  suddenly,  take  up  sticks — spears  are  not  al- 
lowed to  be  carried  in  court — make  as  if  charging  the  king,  jab- 
bering as  fast  as  tongues  can  rattle,  and  so  they  swear  fidelity  for 
all  their  lives. 

This  is  the  greater  salutation;  the  lesser  one  is  performed 
kneeling  in  an  attitude  of  prayer,  continually  throwing  open  the 
hands,  and  repeating  sundry  words.  Among  them  the  word 
“n’yanzig”  is  the  most  frequent  and  conspicuous;  and  hence 
these  gesticulations  receive  the  general  designation  n’yanzig,  a 
term  which  will  be  frequently  met  with,  and  which  I have  found 
it  necessary  to  use  like  an  English  verb.  In  consequence  of  these 
salutations,  there  is  more  ceremony  in  court  than  business,  though 
the  king,  ever  having  an  eye  to  his  treasury,  continually  finds 
some  trifling  fault,  condemns  the  head  of  the  culprit,  takes  his 


HISTORY  OF  THE  WAHUMA.  251 

liquidation-present,  if  he  has  any  thing  to  pay,  and  thus  keeps  up 
his  revenue. 

No  one  dare  stand  before  the  king  while  he  is  either  standing- 
still  or  sitting,  but  must  approach  him  with  downcast  eyes  and 
bended  knees,  and  kneel  or  sit  when  arrived.  To  touch  the 
king’s  throne  or  clothes,  even  by  accident,  or  to  look  upon  his 
women,  is  certain  death.  When  sitting  in  court  holding  a levee, 
the  king  invariably  has  in  attendance  several  women,  Wabandwa, 
evil-eye  averters  or  sorcerers.  They  talk  in  feigned  voices  raised 
to  a shrillness  almost  amounting  to  a scream.  They  wear  dried 
lizards  on  their  heads,  small  goatskin  aprons  trimmed  with  little 
bells,  diminutive  shields  and  spears  set  off  with  cock-hackles,  their 
functions  in  attendance  being  to  administer  cups  of  marwa  (plan- 
tain wine).  To  complete  the  picture  of  the  court,  one  must  im- 
agine a crowd  of  pages  to  run  royal  messages ; they  dare  not 
walk,  for  such  a deficiency  in  zeal  to  their  master  might  cost  their 
life.  A farther  feature  of  the  court  consists  in  the  national  sym- 
bols already  referred  to — a dog,  two  spears,  and  shield. 

With  the  company  squatting  in  a large  half  circle,  or  three 
sides  of  a square,  many  deep,  before  him,  in  the  hollow  of  which 
are  drummers  and  other  musicians,  the  king,  sitting  on  his  throne 
in  high  dignity,  issues  his  orders  for  the  day  much  to  the  follow- 
ing effect:  “ Cattle,  women,  and  children  are  short  in  Uganda;  an 
army  must  be  formed  of  one  to  two  thousand  strong  to  plunder 
Unyoro.  The  Wasoga  have  been  insulting  his  subjects,  and  must 
be  reduced  to  subjection ; for  this  emergency  another  army  must 
be  formed,  of  equal  strength,  to  act  by  land  in  conjunction  with 
the  fleet.  The  Wahaiya  have  paid  no  tribute  to  his  greatness 
lately,  and  must  be  taxed.”  For  all  these  matters  the  command- 
er-in-chief  tells  off  the  divisional  officers,  who  are  approved  by  the 
king,  and  the  matter  is  ended  in  court.  The  divisional  officers 
then  find  subordinate  officers,  who  find  men,  and  the  army  pro- 
ceeds with  its  march.  Should  any  fail  with  their  mission,  re-en- 
forcements are  sent,  and  the  runaways,  called  women,  are  drilled 
with  a red-hot  iron  until  they  are  men  no  longer,  and  die  for  their 
cowardice.  All  heroism,  however,  insures  promotion.  The  king 
receives  his  army  of  officers  with  great  ceremony,  listens  to  their 
exploits,  and  gives  as  rewards  women,  cattle,  and  command  over 
men — the  greatest  elements  of  wealth  in  Uganda — with  a liberal 
hand. 

As  to  the  minor  business  transacted  in  court,  culprits  are 


252 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


brought  in  bound  by  officers,  and  reported.  At  once  the  sen- 
tence is  given,  perhaps  awarding  the  most  torturous,  lingering- 
death — probably  without  trial  or  investigation,  and,  for  all  the 
king  knows,  at  the  instigation  of  some  one  influenced  by  wicked 
spite.  If  the  accused  endeavor  to  plead  his  defense,  his  voice  is 
at  once  drowned,  and  the  miserable  victim  dragged  off  in  the 
roughest  manner  possible  by  those  officers  who  love  their  king, 
and  delight  in  promptly  carrying  out  his  orders.  Young  virgins, 
the  daughters  of  wakungu,  stark  naked,  and  smeared  with  grease, 
but  holding,  for  decency’s  sake,  a small  square  of  mbugii  at  the 
upper  corners  in  both  hands  before  them,  are  presented  by  their 
fathers  in  propitiation  for  some  offense,  and  to  fill  the  harem. 
Seizing-officers  receive  orders  to  hunt  down  wakungu  who  have 
committed  some  indiscretions,  and  to  confiscate  their  lands,  wives, 
children,  and  property.  An  officer  observed  to  salute  informally 
is  ordered  for  execution,  when  every  body  near  him  rises  in  an 
instant,  the  drums  beat,  drowning  his  cries,  and  the  victim  of  care- 
lessness is  dragged  off,  bound  by  cords,  by  a dozen  men  at  once. 
Another  man,  perhaps,  exposes  an  inch  of  naked  leg  while  squat- 
ting, or  has  his  mbugii  tied  contrary  to  regulations,  and  is  con- 
demned to  the  same  fate. 

Fines  of  cows,  goats,  and  fowls  are  brought  in  and  presented ; 
they  are  smoothed  down  by  the  offender’s  hands,  and  then  ap- 
plied to  his  face,  to  show  there  is  no  evil  spirit  lurking  in  the 
gift;  then  thanks  are  proffered  for  the  leniency  of  the  king  in  let- 
ting the  presenter  off  so  cheaply,  and  the  pardoned  man  retires, 
full  of  smiles,  to  the  ranks  of  the  squatters.  Thousands  of  cattle, 
and  strings  of  women  and  children,  sometimes  the  result  of  a vic- 
torious plundering  hunt,  or  else  the  accumulated  seizures  from 
refractory  wakungu,  are  brought  in ; for  there  is  no  more  com- 
mon or  acceptable  offering  to  appease  the  king’s  wrath  toward 
any  refractory  or  blundering  officer  than  a present  of  a few  young 
beauties,  who  may  perhaps  be  afterward  given  as  the  reward  of 
good  service  to  other  officers. 

Stick-charms,  being  pieces  of  wood  of  all  shapes,  supposed  to 
have  supernatural  virtues,  and  colored  earths,  endowed  with  sim- 
ilar qualities,  are  produced  by  the  royal  magicians.  The  master 
of  the  hunt  exposes  his  spoils,  such  as  antelopes,  cats,  porcupines, 
curious  rats,  etc.,  all  caught  in  nets,  and  placed  in  baskets,  zebra, 
lion,  and  buffalo  skins  being  added.  The  fishermen  bring  their 
spoils;  also  the  gardeners.  The  cutlers  show  knives  and  forks 


HISTORY  OF  THE  WAHUMA. 


253 


made  of  iron  inlaid  with  brass  and  copper;  the  furriers,  most 
beautifully-sewn  patchwork  of  antelopes’  skins  ; the  habit-maker, 
sheets  of  mbugu.  bark-cloth ; the  blacksmith,  spears ; the  maker 
of  shields,  his  productions,  and  so  forth ; but  nothing  is  ever  giv- 
en without  rubbing  it  down,  then  rubbing  the  face,  and  going 
through  a long  form  of  salutation  for  the  gracious  favor  the  king 
has  shown  in  accepting  it. 

When  tired  of  business,  the  king  rises,  spear  in  hand,  and,  lead- 
ing his  dog,  walks  off  without  word  or  comment,  leaving  his  com- 
pany, like  dogs,  to  take  care  of  themselves. 

Strict  as  the  discipline  of  the  exterior  court  is,  that  of  the  inte- 
rior is  not  less  severe.  The  pages  all  wear  turbans  of  cord  made 
from  aloe  fibres.  Should  a wife  commit  any  trifling  indiscretion, 
either  by  word  or  deed,  she  is  condemned  to  execution  on  the 
spot,  bound  by  the  pages  and  dragged  out.  Notwithstanding  the 
stringent  laws  for  the  preservation  of  decorum  by  all  male  attend- 
ants, stark-naked  full-grown  women  are  the  valets. 

On  the  first  appearance  of  the  new  moon  every  month,  the  king 
shuts  himself  up,  contemplating  and  arranging  his  magic  horns — 
the  horns  of  wild  animals  stuffed  with  charm-powder — for  two  or 
three  days.  These  may  be  counted  his  Sundays  or  church  festi- 
vals, which  he  dedicates  to  devotion.  On  other  days  he  takes  his 
women,  some  hundreds,  to  bathe  or  sport  in  ponds ; or,  when 
tired  of  that,  takes  long  walks,  his  women  running  after  him, 
when  all  the  musicians  fall  in,  take  precedence  of  the  party,  fol- 
lowed by  the  wakungu  and  pages,  with  the  king  in  the  centre  of 
the  procession,  separating  the  male  company  from  the  fair  sex. 
On  these  excursions  no  common  man  dare  look  upon  the  royal 
procession.  Should  any  body  by  chance  happen  to  be  seen,  he  is 
at  once  hunted  down  by  the  pages,  robbed  of  every  thing  he  pos- 
sesses, and  may  count  himself  very  lucky  if  nothing  worse  hap- 
pens. Pilgrimages  are  not  uncommon,  and  sometimes  the  king- 
spends  a fortnight  yachting ; but  whatever  he  does,  or  wherever 
he  goes,  the  same  ceremonies  prevail — his  musicians,  wakungu, 
pages,  and  the  wives  take  part  in  all. 

But  the  greatest  of  all  ceremonies  takes  place  at  the  time  of  the 
coronation.  The  prince-elect  then  first  seeks  favor  from  the  kings 
of  all  the  surrounding  countries,  demanding  in  his  might  and 
power  one  of  each  of  their  daughters  in  marriage,  or  else  recogni- 
tion in  some  other  way,  when  the  ilmas  makes  a pilgrimage  to 
the  deceased  king’s  tomb,  to  observe,  by  the  growth  and  other 


254 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


signs  of  certain  trees  and  plants,  what  destiny  awaits  the  king 
According  to  the  prognostics,  they  report  that  he  will  either  have 
to  live  a life  of  peace,  or,  after  coronation,  take  the  field  at  the 
head  of  an  army  to  fight  either  east,  west,  or  both  ways,  when 
usually  the  first  march  is  on  Kittara,  and  the  second  on  Usoga. 
The  mgussa’s  voice  is  also  heard,  but  in  what  manner  I do  not 
know,  as  all  communication  on  state  matters  is  forbidden  in  Ugan- 
da. These  preliminaries  being  arranged,  the  actual  coronation 
takes  place,  when  the  king  ceases  to  hold  any  farther  communion 
with  his  mother.  The  brothers  are  burnt  to  death,  and  the  king, 
we  shall  suppose,  takes  the  field  at  the  head  of  his  army. 

It  is  as  the  result  of  these  expeditions  that  one  half  Usoga  and 
the  remaining  half  of  Uddu  have  been  annexed  to  Uganda. 


Jan.] 


KARAGUE  AND  UGANDA. 


255 


CHAPTER  X. 


To  Kufro,  10ft. 


To  Kisaho,  12ft. 


KARAGUE  AND  UGANDA. 

Escape  from  Protectors. — Cross  the  Kitangule,  the  first  Affluent  of  the  Nile. — Enter 
Uddtt.— Uganda. — A rich  Country. — Driving  away  the  Devil. — A Conflict  in  the 
Camp. — A pretending  Prince. — Three  Pages  with  a diplomatic  Message  from  the 
King  of  Uganda. — Crime  in  Uganda. 

Crossing  back  over  the  Weranhanje  spur,  I put  up  with  the 
Arabs  at  Kufro.  Here,  for  tbe  first  time  in  this  part 
of  the  world,  I found  good  English  peas  growing. 
Nest  day  (11th),  crossing  over  a succession  of  forks,  supporters  to 
the  main  spur,  we  encamped  at  Liiandalo.  Here  we  were  over- 
taken by  Rozaro,  who  had  remained  behind,  as  I now  found,  to 
collect  a large  number  of  Wanyambo,  whom  he  called  his  chil- 
dren, to  share  with  him  the  gratuitous  living  these  creatures  al- 
ways look  out  for  on  a march  of  this  nature. 

After  working  round  the  end  of  the  great  spur,  while  following- 
down  the  crest  of  a fork,  we  found  Karague  separated 
by  a deep  valley  from  the  hilly  country  of  Uhaiya, 
famous  for  its  ivory  and  coffee  productions.  On  entering  the  rich 
plantain  gardens  of  Kisaho,  I was  informed  we  must  halt  there  a 
day  for  Mania  to  join  us,  as  he  had  been  detained  by  Rumanika, 
who,  wishing  to  give  him  a present,  had  summoned  Rozaro’s  sis- 
ter to  his  palace  for  that  purpose.  She  was  married  to  another, 
and  had  two  children  by  him,  but  that  did  not  signify,  as  it  was 
found  in  time  her  husband  had  committed  a fault,  on  account  of 
which  it  was  thought  necessary  to  confiscate  all  his  property. 

At  this  place  all  the  people  were  in  a constant  state  of  inebri- 
ety, drinking  pombe  all  day  and  all  night.  I shot  a 
montana  antelope,  and  sent  its  head  and  skin  back  to 
Grant,  accompanied  with  my  daily  report  to  Rumanika. 

Mania  having  joined  me,  we  marched  down  to  near  the  end 
to  Narueri  uth  overlooking  the  plain  of  Kitangule,  the 

Waganda  drums  beating,  and  whistles  playing  all  the 
way  as  we  went  along.  ' 

We  next  descended  from  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  and  span- 


Halt,  13ft. 


256 


TIIE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


to  Kitanguie,  Red  a long  alluvial  plain  to  the  settlement  of  the  so- 
v,th'  long-heard-of  Kitanguie,  where  Rumanika  keeps  his 


thousands  and  thousands  of  cows.  In  former  days  the  dense 
green  forests  peculiar  to  the  tropics,  which  grow  in  swampy  places 
about  this  plain,  were  said  to  have  been  stocked  by  vast  herds  of 
elephants ; but,  since  the  ivory  trade  had  increased,  these  animals 
had  all  been  driven  off  to  the  hills  of  Kisiwa  and  Uhaiya,  or  into 
Uddu  beyond  the  river,  and  all  the  way  down  to  the  N’yanza. 

To-day  we  reached  the  Kitanguie  Kagera,  or  river,  which,  as  I 
ascertained  in  the  year  1858,  falls  into  the  Victoria 
N’yanza  on  the  west  side.  Most  unfortunately,  as  we 
led  off  to  cross  it,  rain  began  to  pour,  so  that  every  body  and  ev- 
ery thing  was  thrown  into  confusion.  I could  not  get  a sketch 
of  it,  though  Grant  was  more  fortunate  afterward,  neither  could  I 
measure  or  fathom  it;  and  it  was  only  after  a long  contest  with 
the  superstitious  boatmen  that  they  allowed  me  to  cross  in  their 
canoe  with  my  shoes  on,  as  they  thought  the  vessel  would  either 
upset,  or  else  the  river  would  dry  up,  in  consequence  of  their  Nep- 


To  Ndongo,  16th. 


Ferry  on  the  Kitanguld  Eiver. 


tune  taking  offense  at  me.  Once  over,  I looked  down  on  the  no- 
ble stream  with  considerable  pride.  About  eighty  yards  broad, 
it  was  sunk  down  a considerable  depth  below  the  surface  of  the 


Jan.] 


KARAGUE  AND  UGANDA. 


257 


land,  like  a huge  canal,  and  is  so  deep  it  could  not  be  poled  by 
the  canoemen,  while  it  runs  at  a velocity  of  from  three  to  four 
knots  an  hour. 

I say  I viewed  it  with  pride,  because  I had  formed  my  judg- 
ment of  its  being  fed  from  high-seated  springs  in  the  Mountains 
of  the  Moon  solely  on  scientific  geographical  reasonings;  and, 
from  the  bulk  of  the  stream,  I also  believed  those  mountains  must 
attain  an  altitude  of  8000  feet*  or  more,  just  as  we  find  they  do 
in  Ruanda.  I thought  then  to  myself,  as  I did  at  Rumanika’s, 
when  I first  viewed  the  Mfumbiro  cones,  and  gathered  all  my  dis- 
tant geographical  information  there,  that  these  highly  saturated 
Mountains  of  the  Moon  gave  birth  to  the  Congo  as  well  as  to  the 
Nile,  and  also  to  the  Shire  branch  of  the  Zambeze. 

I came,  at  the  same  time,  to  the  conclusion  that  all  our  previous 
information  concerning  the  hydrography  of  these  regions,  as  well 
as  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  originated  with  the  ancient  Hin- 
dus, who  told  it  to  the  priests  of  the  Nile ; and  that  all  those  busy 
Egyptian  geographers,  who  disseminated  their  knowledge  with  a 
view  to  be  famous  for  their  long-sightedness,  in  solving  the  deep- 
seated  mystery  which  enshrouded  the  source  of  their  holy  river, 
were  so  many  hypothetical  humbugs.  Reasoning  thus,  the  Hindu 
traders  alone,  in  those  days,  I believed,  had  a firm  basis  to  stand 
upon,  from  their  intercourse  with  the  Abyssinians — through  whom 
the}7-  must  have  heard  of  the  country  of  Arnara,  which  they  ap- 
plied to  the  N’yanza — and  with  the  Wanyamuezi  or  men  of  the 
Moon,  from  whom  they  heard  of  the  Tanganjdka  and  Karague 
mountains.  I was  all  the  more  impressed  with  this  belief  by 
knowing  that  the  two  Church  missionaries,  Rebmann  and  Erhard t, 
without  the  smallest  knowledge  of  the  Hindus’  map,  constructed 
a map  of  their  own,  deduced  from  the  Zanzibar  traders,  something 
on  the  same  scale,  by  blending  the  Victoria  N’yanza,  Tanganyika, 
and  N’yassa  into  one ; while  to  their  triuned  lake  they  gave  the 
name  Moon,  because  the  men  of  the  Moon  happened  to  live  in 
front  of  the  central  lake.  And  later  still,  Mr.  Leon,  another  mis- 
sionary, heard  of  the  N’yanza  and  the  country  Amara,  near  which 
he  heard  the  Nile  made  its  escape. 

doing  on  with  the  march  we  next  came  to  Ndongo,  a perfect 
garden  of  plantains.  The  whole  country  was  rich — most  sur- 
prisingly so.  The  same  streaky  argillaceous  sandstones  prevailed 
as  in  Karague.  There  was  nothing,  in  fact,  that  would  not  have 
* In  ‘ ■ Blackwood’s  Magazine”  for  August,  1859. 

R 


258 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


grown  here,  if  it  liked  moisture  and  a' temperate  heat.  It  was  a 
perfect  paradise  for  negroes : as  fast  as  they  sowed,  they  were  sure 
of  a crop  without  much  trouble ; though,  I must  say,  they  kept 
their  huts  and  their  gardens  in  excellent  order. 

As  Maiila  would  stop  here,  I had  to  halt  also.  The  whole 

country  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  near  some 
Halt,  mil.  . T,  r ,.  . ’ 

impenetrable  iorests,  was  alive  with  antelopes,  prin- 
cipally hartebeests,  but  I would  not  fire  at  them  until  it  was  time 
to  return,  as  the  villagers  led  me  to  expect  buffaloes.  The  conse- 
quence was,  as  no  buffaloes  were  to  be  found,  I got  no  sport, 
though  I wounded  a hartebeest,  and  followed  him  almost  into 
camp,  when  I gave  up  the  chase  to  some  negroes,  and  amused 
myself  by  writing  to  Rumanika,  to  say  if  Grant  did  not  reach  me 
by  a certain  date,  I would  try  to  navigate  the  N’yanza,  and  return 
to  him  in  boats  up  the  Kitangule  River. 

We  crossed  over  a low  spur  of  hill  extending  from  the  moun- 
to  Ngambezi,  tainous  kingdom  of  Nkole,  on  our  left,  toward  the 

mh'  N’yanza.  Here  I was  shown  by  Nasib  a village  call- 

ed Ngandu,  which  was  the  farthest  trading  depot  of  the  Zanzibar 
ivory-merchants.  It  was  established  by  Musa  Mzuri,  by  the  per- 
mission of  Rumanika ; for,  as  I shall  have  presently  to  mention, 
Sunna,  after  annexing  this  part  of  Uddu  to  Uganda,  gave  Ruma- 
nika certain  bands  of  territory  in  it  as  a means  of  security  against 
the  possibility  of  its  being  wrested  out  of  his  hands  again  by  the 
future  kings  of  Unyoro.  Following  on  Musa’s  wake,  many  Arabs 
also  came  here  to  trade;  but  they  were  so  oppressive  to  the  Wa- 
ganda  that  they  were  recalled  by  Rumanika,  and  obliged  to  locate 
themselves  at  Kufro.  To  the  right,  at  the  end  of  the  spur,  stretch- 
ing as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  toward  the  N’yanza,  was  a rich, 
well-wooded,  swampy  plain,  containing  large  open  patches  of 
water,  which  not  many  years  since,  I was  assured,  were  navigable 
for  miles,  but  now,  like  the  Urigi  Lake,  were  gradually  drying 
up.  Indeed,  it  appeared  to  me  as  if  the  N’yanza  must  have  once 
washed  the  foot  of  these  hills,  but  had  since  shrunk  away  from  its 
original  margin. 

On  arrival  at  Ngambezi,  I was  immensely  struck  with  the  neat- 
ness and  good  arrangement  of  the  place,  as  well  as  its  excessive 
beauty  and  richness.  No  part  of  Bengal  or  Zanzibar  could  excel 
it  in  either  respect;  and  my  men,  with  one  voice,  exclaimed, 
“Ah!  what  people  these  Waganda  are!”  and  passed  other  re- 
marks, which  may  be  abridged  as  follows : “ They  build  their 


% 


Jan.] 


KARAGUE  AND  UGANDA. 


261 


hats  and  keep  their  gardens  just  as  well  as  we  do  at  Unguja,  with 
screens  and  inclosures  for  privacy,  a clearance  in  front  of  their 
establishments,  and  a baraza  or  reception-hut  facing  the  build- 
ings. Then,  too,  what  a beautiful  prospect  it  has ! rich  marshy 
plains  studded  with  mounds,  on  each  of  which  grow  the  umbrella 
cactus,  or  some  other  evergreen  tree;  and  beyond,  again,  another 
hill-spur  such  as  the  one  we  have  crossed  over.”  One  of  King 
Mtdsa’s  uncles,  who  had  not  been  burnt  to  death  by  the  order  of 
the  late  king  Sunna  on  his  ascension  to  the  throne,  was  the  pro- 
prietor of  this  place,  but  unfortunately  he  was  from  home.  How- 
ever, his  substitute  gave  me  his  baraza  to  live  in,  and  brought 
many  presents  of  goats,  fowls,  sweet  potatoes,  yams,  plantains, 
sugar-cane,  and  Indian  corn,  and  apologized  in  the  end  for  defi- 
ciency in  hospitality.  I,  of  course,  gave  him  beads  in  return. 

Continuing  over  the  same  kind  of  ground  in  the  next  succeed- 
to  semizabi,  ing  spurs  of  the  streaky  red-clay  sandstone  hills,  we 

m,t'  put  up  at  the  residence  of  Isamgevi,  a mkungu  or 

district  officer  of  Kumanika’s.  Ilis  residence  was  as  well  kept  as 
Mtbsa’s  uncle’s ; but,  instead  of  a baraza  fronting  his  house,  he 
had  a small  inclosure,  with  three  small  huts  in  it,  kept  apart  for 
devotional  purposes,  or  to  propitiate  the  evil  spirits — in  short,  ac- 
cording to  the  notions  of  the  place,  a church.  This  officer  gave 
me  a cow  and  some  plantains,  and  I,  in  return,  gave  him  a wire 
and  some  beads.  Many  mendicant  women,  called  by  some  wich- 
wbzi,  by  others  mabandwa,  all  wearing  the  most  fantastic  dresses 
of  mbugu,  covered  with  beads,  shells,  and  sticks,  danced  before 
us,  singing  a comic  song,  the  chorus  of  which  was  a long,  shrill, 
rolling  Coo-roo-coo-roo,  coo-roo-coo-roo,  delivered  as  they  came  to 
a standstill.  Their  true  functions  were  just  as  obscure  as  the  re- 
ligion of  the  negroes  generally ; some  called  them  devil-drivers, 
others  evil-eye  averters ; but,  whatever  it  was  for,  they  imposed 
a tax  on  the  people,  whose  minds  being  governed  by  a necessity 
■ for  making  some  self-sacrifice  to  propitiate  something,  they  could 
not  tell  what,  for  their  welfare  in  the  world,  they  always  gave 
them  a trifle  in  the  same  way  as  the  East  Indians  do  their  fakirs. 

After  crossing  another  low  swampy  flat,  we  reached  a much 
ToKiaMre,  larger  group,  or  rather  ramification,  of  hill-spurs 
pointing  to  the  N’yanza,  called  Ivisuere,  and  com- 
manded by  M’yombo,  Rumanika’s  frontier  officer.  Immediately 
behind  this,  to  the  northward,  commenced  the  kingdom  of  Un- 
yoro ; and  here  it  was,  they  said,  Baraka  would  branch  off  my 


262 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


line  on  his  way  to  Kamrasi.  Mania’s  home  was  one  march  dis- 
tant from  this,  so  the  scoundrel  now  left  me  to  enjoy  himself 
there,  giving  as  his  pretext  for  doing  so  that  Mtesa  required  him, 
as  soon  as  I arrived  here,  to  send  on  a messenger  that  order  might 
be  taken  for  my  proper  protection  on  the  line  of  march ; for  the 
Waganda  were  a turbulent  set  of  people,  who  could  only  be  kept 
in  order  by  the  executioner ; and  doubtless  many,  as  was  custom- 
ary on  such  occasions,  would  be  beheaded,  as  soon  as  Mtesa  heard 
of  my  coming,  to  put  the  rest  in  a fright.  I knew  this  was  all 
humbug,  of  course,  and  I told  him  so ; but  it  was  of  no  use,  and  I 
was  compelled  to  halt. 

On  the  23d  another  officer,  named  Maribu,  came  to  me  and  said, 
Halt,  20th  to  Mtesa,  having  heard  that  Grant  was  left  sick  behind 
2ith ■ at  Karague,  had  given  him  orders  to  go  there  and 

fetch  him,  whether  sick  or  well,  for  Mtesa  was  most  anxious  to 
see  white  men.  Hearing  this,  I at  once  wrote  to  Grant,  begging 
him  to  come  on  if  he  could  do  so,  and  to  bring  with  him  all  the 
best  of  my  property,  or  as  much  as  he  could  of  it,  as  I now  saw 
there  was  more  cunning  humbug  than  honesty  in  what  Rumanika 
had  told  me  about  the  impossibility  of  our  going  north  from 
Uganda,  as  well  as  in  his  saying  sick  men  could  not  go  into 
Uganda,  and  donkeys  without  trowsers  would  not  be  admitted 
there,  because  they  were  considered  indecent.  If  he  was  not  well 
enough  to  move,  I advised  him  to  wait  there  until  I reached  Mte- 
sa’s,  when  I would  either  go  up  the  lake  and  Kitangule  to  fetch 
him  away,  or  would  make  the  king  send  boats  for  him,  which  I 
more  expressly  wished,  as  it  would  tend  to  give  us  a much  better 
knowledge  of  the  lake. 

Maula  now  came  again,  after  receiving  repeated  and  angry 
to  N’yagussa,  messages,  and  I forced  him  to  make  a move.  He  led 
2i!h-  me  straight  up  to  his  home,  a very  nice  place,  in 

which  he  gave  me  a very  large,  clean,  and  comfortable  hut — had 
no  end  of  plantains  brought  for  me  and  my  men — and  said,  “ Now 
you  have  really  entered  the  kingdom  of  Uganda,  for  the  future 
you  must  buy  no  more  food.  At  every  place  that  you  stop  for 
the  day,  the  officer  in  charge  will  bring  you  plantains,  otherwise 
your  men  can  help  themselves  in  the  gardens,  for  such  are  the 
laws  of  the  land  when  a king’s  guest  travels  in  it.  Any  one  found 
selling  any  thing  to  either  yourself  or  your  men  would  be  pun- 
ished.” Accordingly,  I stopped  the  daily  issue  of  beads ; but  no 
sooner  had  I done  so  than  all  my  men  declared  they  could  not 


KAKAGUE  AND  UGANDA. 


263 


Jan.] 

eat  plantains.  It  was  all  very  well,  they  said,  for  the  Waganda 
to  do  so,  because  they  were  used  to  it,  but  it  did  not  satisfy  their 
hunger. 

Maula,  all  smirks  and  smiles,  on  seeing  me  order  the  things  out 
for  the  march,  begged  I would  have  patience,  and 
wait  till  the  messenger  returned  from  the  king;  it 
would  not  take  more  than  ten  days  at  the  most.  Much  annoyed 
at  this  nonsense,  I ordered  my  tent  to  be  pitched.  I refused  all 
Maula’s  plantains,  and  gave  my  men  beads  to  buy  grain  again 
with ; and,  finding  it  necessary  to  get  up  some  indignation,  said  I 
would  not  stand  being  chained  like  a dog ; if  he  would  not  go  on 
ahead,  I should  go  without  him.  Maula  then  said  he  would  go 
to  a friend’s  and  come  back  again.  I said,  if  he  did  not,  I should 
go  off ; and  so  the  conversation  ended. 

2 6th.  Drumming,  singing,  screaming,  yelling,  and  dancing  had 
been  going  on  these  last  two  days  and  two  nights  to  drive  the 
phepo  or  devil  out  of  a village.  The  whole  of  the  ceremonies 
were  most  ludicrous.  An  old  man  and  woman,  smeared  with 
white  mud,  and  holding  pots  of  pombe  in  their  laps,  sat  in  front 
of  a hut,  while  other  people  kept  constantly  bringing  them  bask- 
ets full  of  plantain-squash,  and  more  pots  of  pombe.  In  the  court- 
yard fronting  them  were  hundreds  of  men  and  women  dressed  in 
smart  mbugus — the  males  wearing  for  turbans  strings  of  abrus- 
seeds  wound  round  their  heads,  with  polished  boars’  tusks  stuck 
in  in  a jaunty  manner.  These  were  the  people  who,  all  drunk  as 
fifers,  were  keeping  up  such  a continual  row  to  frighten  the  devil 
away.  In  the  midst  of  this  assemblage  I now  found  Kachuchu, 
Rumanika’s  representative,  who  went  on  ahead  from  Karague 
palace  to  tell  Mtesa  that  I wished  to  visit  him.  With  him,  he 
said,  were  two  other  wakungu.  of  Mtesa’ s,  who  had  orders  to  bring 
on  my  party  and  Dr.  K’yengo’s.  Mtesa,  he  said,  was  so  mad  to 
see  us,  that  the  instant  he  arrived  at  the  palace  and  told  him  we 
wished  to  visit  him,  the  king  caused  “fifty  big  men  and  four 
hundred  small  ones”  to  be  executed,  because,  he  said,  his  subjects 
were  so  bumptious  they  would  not  allow  any  visitors  to  come 
near  him,  else  he  would  have  had  white  men  before. 

27th.  N’yamgundu,  my  old  friend  at  Usui,  then  came  to  me, 
and  said  he  was  the  first  man  to  tell  Mtesa  of  our  arrival  in  Usui, 
and  wish  to  visit  him.  The  handkerchief  I had  given  Irungu  at 
Usui  to  present  as  a letter  to  Mtesa  he  had  snatched  away  from 
him,  and  given,  himself,  to  his  king,  who  no  sooner  received  it 


264 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


than  he  bound  it  round  his  head  and  said,  in  ecstasies  of  delight, 
“ Oh,  the  mzungu,  the  mzungu!  he  does  indeed  want  to  see  me.” 
Then  giving  him  four  cows  as  a return  letter  to  take  to  me,  he 
said,  “Hurry  off  as  quickly  as  possible  and  bring  him  here.” 
“ The  cows,”  said  N’yamgundu,  “ have  gone  on  to  Kisuere  by 
another  route,  but  I will  bring  them  here;  and  then,  as  Maula  is 
taking  you,  I will  go  and  fetch  Grant.”  I then  told  him  not  to 
be  in  such  a hurry.  I had  turned  off  Maula  for  treating  me  like 
a dog,  and  I would  not  be  escorted  by  him  again.  He  replied 
that  his  orders  would  not  be  fully  accomplished  as  long  as  any 
part  of  my  establishment  was  behind ; so  he  would,  if  I wished 
it,  leave  part  of  his  “children”  to  guide  me  on  to  Mtesa’s,  while 
he  went  to  fetch  Grant.  An  officer,  I assured  him,  had  just  gone 
on  to  fetch  Grant,  so  he  need  not  trouble  his  head  on  that  score ; 
at  any  rate,  he  might  reverse  his  plan,  and  send  his  children  for 
Grant,  while  he  went  on  with  me,  by  which  means  he  would  fully 
accomplish  his  mission.  Long  arguments  ensued,  and  I at  length 
turned  the  tables  by  asking  who  was  the  greatest — myself  or  my 
children  ; when  he  said,  “As  I see  you  are  the  greatest,  I will  do 
as  you  wish ; and  after  fetching  the  cows  from  Kisuere,  we  will 
march  to-morrow  at  sunrise.” 

The  sun  rose,  but  N’yamgundu  did  not  appear.  I was  greatly 
To  Mashondfi  annoyed  lest  Maula  should  come  and  try  to  drive 
23th'  him  away.  I waited,  restraining  my  impatience  un- 

til noon,  when,  as  I could  stand  it  no  longer,  I ordered  Bombay 
to  strike  my  tent  and  commence  the  march.  A scene  followed, 
which  brought  out  my  commander-in-chief’s  temper  in  a rather 
surprising  shape.  “How  can  we  go?”  said  Bombay.  “Strike 
the  tent,”  said  I.  “Who  will  guide  us?”  said  Bombay.  “Strike 
the  tent,”  I said  again.  “But  Rumanika’s  men  have  all  gone 
away,  and  there  is  no  one  to  show  us  the  way.”  “ Never  mind ; 
obey  my  orders,  and  strike  the  tent.”  Then,  as  Bombay  would 
not  do  it,  I commenced  myself,  assisted  by  some  of  my  other  men, 
and  pulled  it  down  over  his  head,  all  the  women  who  were  as- 
sembled under  it,  and  all  the  property.  On  this,  Bombay  flew 
into  a passion,  abusing  the  men  who  were  helping  me,  as  there 
were  fires  and  powder-boxes  under  the  tent.  I of  course  had  to 
fly  into  a passion  and  abuse  Bombay.  He,  in  a still  greater  rage, 
said  he  would  pitch  into  the  men,  for  the  whole  place  would  be 
blown  up.  “ That  is  no  reason  why  you  should  abuse  my  men,” 
I said,  “who  are  better  than  you  by  obeying  my  orders.  If  I 


Jan.] 


KAKAGUE  AND  UGANDA. 


265 


choose  to  blow  up  my  property,  that  is  my  look-out ; and  if  you 
don’t  do  your  duty,  I will  blow  you  up  also.”  Foaming  and 
roaring  with  rage,  Bombay  said  he  would  not  stand  being  thus 
insulted.  I then  gave  him  a dig  on  the  head  with  my  fist.  He 
squared  up,  and  pouted  like  an  enraged  chameleon,  looking  sav- 
agely at  me.  I gave  him  another  dig,  which  sent  him  stagger- 
ing. He  squared  again  : I gave  him  another ; till  at  last,  as  the 
claret  was  flowing,  he  sulked  off,  and  said  he  would  not  serve  me 
any  more.  I then  gave  Nasib  orders  to  take  Bombay’s  post,  and 
commence  the  march ; but  the  good  old  man  made  Bombay  give 
in,  and  off  we  went,  amid  crowds  of  Waganda,  who  had  collected 
to  witness  this  comedy,  and  were  all  digging  at  one  another’s 
heads,  showing  off  in  pantomime  the  strange  way^s  of  the  white 
man.  N’yamgundu.  then  joined  us,  and  begged  us  to  halt  only 
one  more  day,  as  some  of  his  women  were  still  at  Kisuere ; but 
Bombayq  showing  his  nozzle  rather  flatter  than  usual,  said,  “ Ho ; 
I got  this  on  account  of  your  lies.  I won’t  tell  Bana  any  more 
of  your  excuses  for  stopping;  you  may  tell  him  yourself,  if  yrou 
like.”  N’yamgundu,  however,  did  not  think  this  advisable,  and 
so  we  went  on  as  we  were  doing.  It  was  the  first  and  last  time 
I had  ever  occasion  to  lose  my  dignity  by  striking  a blow  with 
my  own  hands ; but  I could  not  help  it  on  this  occasion  without 
losing  command  and  respect;  for,  although  I often  had  occasion 
to  award  100  and  even  150  lashes  to  my  men  for  stealing,  I could 
not,  for  the  sake  of  due  subordination,  allow  any  inferior  officer  to 
strike  Bombay,  and  therefore  had  to  do  the  work  myself. 

Skirting  the  hills  on  the  left,  with  a large  low  plain  to  the 
right,  we  soon  came  on  one  of  those  numerous  rush-drains  that 
appear  to  me  to  be  the  last  waters  left  of  the  old  bed  of  the 
N’yanza.  This  one  in  particular  was  rather  large,  being  150 
yards  wide.  It  was  sunk  where  I crossed  it,  like  a canal,  14  feet 
below  the  plain ; and  what  with  mire  and  water  combined,  so 
deep,  I was  obliged  to  take  off  my  trowsers  while  fording  it. 
Once  across,  we  sought  for  and  put  up  in  a village  beneath  a 
small  hill,  from  the  top  of  which  I saw  the  Victoria  N’yanza  for 
the  first  time  on  this  march.  N’yamgundu.  delighted  me  much : 
treating  me  as  a king,  he  always  fell  down  on  his  knees  to  ad- 
dress me,  and  made  all  his  “ children”  look  after  my  comfort  in 
camp. 

We  marched  on  again  over  the  same  kind  of  ground,  alternate- 
ly crossing  rush-drains  of  minor  importance,  though  provokingly 


266 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


To  ukara  29 th  fre(luent>  and  rich  gardens,  from  which,  as  we  passed, 
all  the  inhabitants  bolted  at  the  sound  of  our  drums, 
knowing  well  that  they  would  be  seized  and  punished  if  found 
gazing  at  the  king’s  visitors.  Even  on  our  arrival  at  Ukara  not 
one  soul  was  visible.  The  huts  of  the  villagers  were  shown  to 
myself  and  my  men  without  any  ceremony.  The  Wanyambo 
escort  stole  what  they  liked  out  of  them,  and  I got  into  no  end 
of  troubles  trying  to  stop  the  practice;  for  they  said  the  Waganda 
served  them  the  same  way  when  they  went  to  Karague,  and  they 
had  a right  to  retaliate  now.  To  obviate  this  distressing  sort  of 
plundering,  I still  served  out  beads  to  my  men,  and  so  kept  them 
in  hand  a little ; but  they  were  fearfully  unruly,  and  did  not  like 
my  interference  with  what,  by  the  laws  of  the  country  they  con- 
sidered their  right. 

Here  I had  to  stop  a day  for  some  of  N’yamgundu’s  women, 
who,  in  my  hurry  at  leaving  Maula’s,  were  left  be- 

Halt  BO  th.  > j j o > 

hind.  A letter  from  Grant  was  now  brought  to  me 
by  a very  nice-looking  young  man,  who  had  the  skin  of  a leopard- 
cat  ( F . Serval)  tied  round  his  neck — a badge  which  royal  person- 
ages only  were  entitled  to  wear.  H’yamgundu,  seeing  this,  as  he 
knew  the  young  man  was  not  entitled  to  wear  it,  immediately  or- 
dered his  “ children”  to  wrench  it  from  him.  Two  ruffianly  fel- 
lows then  seized  him  by  his  hands,  and  twisted  his  arms  round 
and  round  until  I thought  they  would  come  out  of  their  sockets. 
Without  uttering  a sound,  the  young  man  resisted,  until  N’yam- 
gundu  told  them  to  be  quiet,  for  he  would  hold  a court  on  the 
subject,  and  see  if  the  young  man  could  defend  himself.  The 
ruffians  then  sat  on  the  ground,  but  still  holding  on  to  him,  while 
N’yamgundu  took  up  a long  stick,  and,  breaking  it  into  sundry 
bits  of  equal  length,  placed  one  by  one  in  front  of  him,  each  of 
which  was  supposed  to  represent  one  number  in  line  of  succession 
to  his  forefathers.  By  this  it  was  proved  he  did  not  branch  in 
ahy  way  from  the  royal  stock.  N’yamgundu,  then  turning  to  the 
company,  said,  What  would  he  do  now  to  expiate  his  folly  ? If 
the  matter  was  taken  before  Mtesa  he  would  lose  his  head ; was 
it  not  better  he  should  pay  one  hundred  cows  ? All  agreeing  to 
this,  the  young  man  said  he  would  do  so,  and  quietly  allowed  the 
skin  to  be  untied  and  taken  off  by  the  ruffians. 

Next  day,  after  crossing  more  of  those  abominable  rush-drains, 
while  in  sight  of  the  Victoria  N’yanza,  we  ascended 
the  most  beautiful  hills,  covered  with  verdure  of  all 


8 


Feb.]  KAKAGUE  AND  UGANDA.  267 

descriptions.  At  Meruka,  where  I put  up,  there  resided  some 
grandees,  the  chief  of  whom  was  the  king’s  aunt.  She  sent  me  a 
goat,  a hen,  a basket  of  eggs,  and  some  plantains,  in  return  for 
which  I sent  her  a wire  and  some  beads.  I felt  inclined  to  stop 
here  a month,  every  thing  was  so  very  pleasant.  The  tempera- 
ture was  perfect.  The  roads,  as  indeed  they  were  every  where, 
were  as  broad  as  our  coach-roads,  cut  through  the  long  grasses, 
straight  over  the  hills  and  down  through  the  woods  in  the  dells 
— a strange  contrast  to  the  wretched  tracks  in  all  the  adjacent 
countries.  The  huts  were  kept  so  clean  and  so  neat,  not  a fault 
could  be  found  with  them — the  gardens  the  same.  Wherever  I 
strolled  I saw  nothing  but  richness,  and  what  ought  to  be  wealth. 
The  whole  land  was  a picture  of  quiescent  beauty,  with  a bound- 
less sea  in  the  background.  Looking  over  the  hills,  it  struck  the 
fancy  at  once  that  at  one  period  the  whole  land  must  have  been 
at  a uniform  level  with  their  present  tops,  but  that,  by  the  con- 
stant denudation  it  was  subjected  to  by  frequent  rains,  it  had  been 
cut  down  and  sloped  into  those  beautiful  hills  and  dales  which 
now  so  much  pleased  the  eye ; for  there  were  none  of  those 
quartz  dikes  I had  seen  protruding  through  the  same  kind  of 
aqueous  formations  in  Usui  and  Karague,  nor  were  there  any  oth- 
er sorts  of  volcanic  disturbance  to  distort  the  calm,  quiet  aspect 
of  the  scene. 

From  this,  the  country  being  all  hill  and  dale,  with  miry  rush- 

drains  in  the  bottoms,  I walked,  carrying  my  shoes 

To  Sangua,  1st  , , . . j ° J ^ 

and  stockings  m my  hands,  nearly  all  the  way.  Ro- 
zaro’s  “children”  became  more  and  more  troublesome,  stealing 
every  thing  they  could  lay  their  hands  upon  out  of  the  village 
huts  we  passed  on  the  way.  On  arrival  at  Sangua,  I found  many 
of  them  had  been  seized  by  some  men,  who,  bolder  than  the  rest, 
had  overtaken  them  while  gutting  their  huts,  and  made  them 
prisoners,  demanding  of  me  two  slaves  and  one  load  of  beads  for 
their  restitution.  I sent  my  men  back  to  see  what  had  happened, 
and  ordered  them  to  bring  all  the  men  on  to  me,  that  I might  see 
fair  play.  They,  however,  took  the  law  into  their  own  hands, 
drove  off  the  Waganda  villagers  by  firing  their  muskets,  and  re- 
lieved the  thieves.  A complaint  was  then  laid  against  N’yarn- 
gundu  by  the  chief  officer  of  the  village,  and  I was  requested  to 
halt.  That  I would  not  do,  leaving  the  matter  in  the  hands  of 
the  governor  general,  Mr.  Pokino,  whom  I heard  we  should  find 
at  the  nest  station,  Masaka. 


268 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


On  arrival  there  at  the  government  establishment — a large  col- 
lection  of  grass  huts,  separated  one  from  the  other 

To  Masaka,  2 d.  D ’ r 

within  large  mclosures,  which  overspread  the  whole 
top  of  a low  hill  — I was  requested  to  withdraw  and  put  up  in 
some  huts  a short  distance  off,  and  wait  until  his  excellency,  who 
was  from  home,  could  come  and  see  me ; which  the  next  day  he 
did,  coming  in  state  with  a large  number  of  officers,  who  brought 
with  them  a cow,  sundry  pots  of  pombd,  enormous  sticks  of  sug- 
ar-cane, and  a large  bundle  of  country  coffee.  This  grows  in 
great  profusion  all  over  this  land  in  large  bushy  trees,  the  berries 
sticking  on  the  branches  like  clusters  of  holly-berries. 

I was  then  introduced,  and  told  that  his  excellency  was  the  ap- 
pointed governor  of  all  the  land  lying  between  the 

Halt,  3d  and  4th.  i.  ° J ° 

Katonga  and  the  lvitangule  Rivers.  After  the  first 
formalities  were  over,  the  complaint  about  the  officers  at  Sangua 
was  preferred  for  decision,  on  which  Pokino  at  once  gave  it 
against  the  villagers,  as  they  had  no  right,  by  the  laws  of  the  land, 
to  lay  hands  on  a king’s  guest.  Just  then  Maula  arrived,  and  be- 
gan to  abuse  N’yamgundu.  Of  course  I would  not  stand  this ; 
and,  after  telling  all  the  facts  of  the  case,  I begged  Pokino  to  send 
Maula  away  out  of  my  camp.  Pokino  said  he  could  not  do  this, 
as  it  was  by  the  king’s  order  he  was  appointed ; but  he  put  Mau- 
la in  the  background,  laughing  at  the  way  he  had  “let  the  bird 
fly  out  of  his  hands,”  and  settled  that  N’yamgundu  should  be  my 
guide.  I then  gave  him  a wire,  and  he  gave  me  three  large 
sheets  of  mbugu,  which  he  said  I should  require,  as  there  were  so 
many  water-courses  to  cross  on  the  road  I was  going.  A second 
day’s  halt  was  necessitated  by  many  of  my  men  catching  fever, 
probably  owing  to  the  constant  crossing  of  those  abominable  rush- 
drains.  There  was  no  want  of  food  here,  for  I never  saw  such  a 
profusion  of  plantains  any  where.  They  were  literally  lying  in 
heaps  on  the  ground,  though  the  people  were  brewing  pombb  all 
day,  and  cooking  them  for  dinner  every  evening. 

After  crossing  many  more  hills  and  miry  bottoms,  constantly 
To  Ugonzi, 5th.  coming  in  view  of  the  lake,  we  reached  Ugonzi,  and, 
ro  Kituntu, &th.  after  another  march  of  the  same  description,  came  to 
Kituntu,  the  last  officer’s  residence  in  Uddu.  Formerly  it  was 
the  property  of  a Belucli  named  Eseau,  who  came  to  this  country 
with  merchandise,  trading  on  account  of  Said  Said,  late  Sultan  of 
Zanzibar;  but,  having  lost  it  all  on  his  way  here,  paying  mahongo, 
or  taxes,  and  so  forth,  he  feared  returning,  and  instead  made  great 


■ 


’ 


Feb.] 


KAEAGUE  AND  UGANDA. 


271 


friends  with,  the  late  king  Sunna,  who  took  an  especial  fancy  to 
him  because  he  had  a very  large  beard,  and  raised  him  to  the 
rank  of  mkungu.  A few  years  ago,  however,  Eseau  died,  and 
left  all  his  family  and  property  to  a slave  named  Uledi,  who  now, 
in  consequence,  is  the  border  officer. 

I became  now  quite  puzzled  while  thinking  which  was  the 
finest  spot  I had  seen  in  Uddii,  so  many  were  exceed- 

Ualt,  7th.  . A . „ . . T1.,_  . „ 

ingly  beautiful ; but  1 think  I gave  the  preference  to 
this,  both  for  its  own  immediate  neighborhood  and  the  long  range 
of  view  it  afforded  of  Uganda  proper,  the  lake,  and  the  large  isl- 
and, or  group  of  islands,  called  Sesb,  where  the  King  of  Uganda 
keeps  one  of  his  fleets  of  boats.  • 

Some  little  boys  came  here  who  had  all  their  hair  shaved  off 
excepting  two  round  tufts  on  either  side  of  the  head. 

ToHbule,  8th.  r G . . 

They  were  the  kings  pages;  and,  producing  three 
sticks,  said  they  had  brought  them  to  me  from  their  king,  who 
wanted  three  charms  or  medicines.  Then  placing  one  stick  on 
the  ground  before  me,  they  said,  “ This  one  is  a head  which,  be- 
ing affected  by  dreams  of  a deceased  relative,  requires  relief;”  the 
second  symbolized  the  king’s  desire  for  the  accomplishment  of  a 
phenomenon  to  which  the  old  phalic  worship  was  devoted;  “and 
this  third  one,”  they  said,  “is  a sign  that  the  king  wants  a charm 
to  keep  all  his  subjects  in  awe  of  him.”  I then  promised  I would 
do  what  I could  when  I reached  the  palace,  but  feared  to  do  any 
thing  in  the  distance.  I wished  to  go  on  with  the  march,  but 
was  dissuaded  by  N’yamgundu,  who  said  he  had  received  orders 
to  find  me  some  cows  here,  as  his  king  was  most  anxious  I should 
be  well  fed.  Next  day,  however,  we  descended  into  the  Katonga 
valley,  where,  instead  of  finding  a magnificent  broad  sheet  of  wa- 
ter, as  I had  been  led  to  expect  by  the  Arabs’  account  of  it,  I 
found  I had  to  wade  through  a succession  of  rush-drains  divided 
one  from  the  other  by  islands.  It  took  me  two  hours,  with  my 
clothes  tucked  up  under  my  arms,  to  get  through  them  all ; and 
many  of  them  were  so  matted  with  weeds  that  my  feet  sank  down 
as  though  I trod  in  a bog. 

The  "W aganda  all  said  that  at  certain  times  in  the  year  no  one 
could  ford  these  drains,  as  they  all  flooded ; but,  strangely  enough, 
they  were  always  lowest  when  most  rain  fell  in  Uganda.  No 
one,  however,  could  account  for  this  singular  fact.  No  one  knew 
of  a lake  to  supply  the  waters,  nor  where  they  came  from.  That 
they  flowed  into  the  lake  there  was  no  doubt — as  I could  see  by 


272 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1SG2. 


To  Nakusi,  9th. 


To  Kibitii,  10th. 


the  trickling  waters  in  some  few  places — and  they  lay  exactly  on 
the  equator.  Eising  out  of  the  valley,  I found  all  the  country 
just  as  hilly  as  before,  but  many  of  the  rush -drains  going  to 
northward ; and  in  the  dells  were  such  magnificent  trees  they 
quite  took  me  by  surprise.  Clean-trunked,  they  towered  up  just 
as  so  many  great  pillars,  and  then  spread  out  their  high  branches 
like  a canopy  over  us.  I thought  of  the  blue  gums  of  Australia, 
and  believed  these  would  beat  them.  At  the  village  of  Mbiile 
we  were  gracefully  received  by  the  local  officer,  who  brought  a 
small  present,  and  assured  me  that  the  king  was  in  a nervous 
state  of  excitement,  always  asking  after  me.  While  speaking  he 
trembled,  and  he  was  so  restless  he  could  never  sit  still. 

Up  and  down  we  went  on  again  through  this  wonderful  coun- 
try, surprisingly  rich  in  grass,  cultivation,  and  trees. 
AVater-courses  were  as  frequent  as  ever,  though  not 
quite  so  troublesome  to  the  traveler,  as  they  were  more  frequently 
bridged  with  poles  or  palm-tree  trunks. 

This,  the  next  place  we  arrived  at,  was  N’yamgundu’s  own 
residence,  where  I stopped  a day  to  try  and  shoot 
buffaloes.  Maula  here  had  the  coolness  to  tell  me  he 
must  inspect  all  the  things  I had  brought  for  presentation  to  the 
king,  as  he  said  it  was  the  custom,  after  which  he  would  hurry 
on  and  inform  his  majesty.  Of  course  I refused,  saying  it  was 
uncourteous  to  both  the  king  and  myself.  Still  he  persisted,  un- 
til, finding  it  hopeless,  he  spitefully  told  N’yamgundu  to  keep  me 
here  at  least  two  days.  N’yamgundu,  however,  very  prudently 
told  him  he  should  obey  his  orders,  which  were  to  take  me  on  as 
fast  as  he  could.  I then  gave  N’yamgundu  wires  and  beads  for 
himself  and  all  his  family  round,  which  made  Maula  slink  farther 
away  from  me  than  ever. 

The  buffaloes  were  very  numerous  in  the  tall  grasses  that 
lined  the  sides  and  bottoms  of  the  hills;  but,  al- 
though I saw  some,  I could  not  get  a shot,  for  the 
grasses,  being  double  the  height  of  myself,  afforded  them  means 
of  dashing  out  of  view  as  soon  as  seen,  and  the  rustling  noise 
made  while  I followed  them  kept  them  on  the  alert.  At  night  a 
hyena  came  into  my  hut,  and  carried  off  one  of  my  goats  that 
was  tied  to  a log  between  two  of  my  sleeping  men. 

During  the  next  march,  after  passing  some  of  the  most  beauti- 
to  Nakatema,  fully-wooded  dells,  in  which  lay  small  rush-lakes  on 
mh ■ the  right  of  the  road,  draining,  as  I fancied,  into  the 


Halt,  Uth. 


Feb.] 


KARAGUE  AND  UGANDA. 


273 


Victoria  Lake,  I met  with  a party  of  the  king’s  gamekeepers, 
staking  their  nets  all  along  the  side  of  a hill,  hoping  to  catch  an- 
telopes by  driving  the  covers  with  dogs  and  men.  Farther  on, 
also,  I came  on  a party  driving  one  hundred  cows,  as  a present 
from  Mtdsa  to  Eumanika,  which  the  officers  in  charge  said  was 
their  king’s  return  for  the  favor  Eumanika  had  done  him  in  send- 
ing me  on  to  him.  It  was  in  this  way  that  great  kings  sent  “let- 
ters” to  one  another. 

Next  day,  after  going  a short  distance,  we  came  on  the  Mwa- 
To  N’yama  Go-  ran  go  Eiver,  a broad  rush -drain  of  three  hundred 
ma,i3ffi.  yards’  span,  two  thirds  of  which  was  bridged  over. 
Until  now  I did  not  feel  sure  where  the  various  rush-drains  I had 
been  crossing  since  leaving  the  Katonga  valley  all  went  to,  but 
here  my  mind  was  made  up,  for  I found  a large  volume  of  water 
going  to  the  northward.  I took  off  my  clothes  at  the  end  of  the 
bridge  and  jumped  into  the  stream,  which  I found  was  twelve 
yards  or  so  broad,  and  deeper  than  my  height.  I was  delighted 
beyond  measure  at  this  very  surprising  fact,  that  I was  indeed  on 
the  northern  slopes  of  the  continent,  and  had,  to  all  appearance, 
found  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Nile’s  exit  from  the  N’yanza.  I 
drew  Bombay’s  attention  to  the  current;  and,  collecting  all  the 
men  of  the  country,  inquired  of  them  where  the  river  sprang 
from.  Some  of  them  said,  in  the  hills  to  the  southward ; but 
most  of  them  said,  from  the  lake.  I argued  the  point  with  them ; 
for  I felt  quite  sure  so  large  a body  of  flowing  water  could  not  be 
collected  together  in  any  place  but  the  lake.  They  then  all 
agreed  to  this  view,  and  farther  assured  me  it  went  to  Kamrasi’s 
palace  in  Unyoro,  where  it  joined  the  N’yanza,  meaning  the  Nile. 

Pushing  on  again  we  arrived  at  N’yama  Goma,  where  I found 
Irungu — the  great  embassador  I had  first  met  in  Usui,  with,  all 
his  “ children” — my  enemy  Makinga,  and  Suwarora’s  deputation 
with  wire — altogether,  a collection  of  one  hundred  souls.  They 
had  been  here  a month  waiting  for  leave  to  approach  the  king’s 
palace.  Not  a villager  was  to  be  seen  for  miles  round ; not  a 
plantain  remained  on  the  trees,  nor  was  there  even  a sweet  potato 
to  be  found  in  the  ground.  The  whole  of  the  provisions  of  this 
beautiful  place  had  been  devoured  by  the  king’s  guests,  simply 
because  he  had  been  too  proud  to  see  them  in  a hurry.  This 
was  alarming,  for  I feared  I should  be  served  the  same  trick,  es- 
pecially as  all  the  people  said  this  kind  of  treatment  was  a mere 
matter  of  custom  which  those  great  kings  demanded  as  a respect 


274 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


due  to  their  dignity;  and  Bombay  added,  with  laughter,  they 
make  all  manner  of  fuss  to  entice  one  to  come  when  in  the  dis- 
tance, but  when  they  have  got  you  in  their  power  they  become 
haughty  about  it,  and  think  only  of  how  they  can  best  impose  on 
your  mind  the  great  consequence  which  they  affect  before  their 
own  people. 

Here  I was  also  brought  to  a standstill,  for  N’yamgundu  said 
I must  wait  for  leave  to  approach  the  palace.  He 
wished  to  have  a look  at  the  presents  I had  brought 
for  Mtesa.  I declined  to  gratify  it,  taking  my  stand  on  my  dig- 
nity ; there  was  no  occasion  for  any  distrust  on  such  a trifling 
matter  as  that,  for  I was  not  a merchant  who  sought  for  gain,  but 
had  come,  at  great  expense,  to  see  the  king  of  this  region.  I 
begged,  however,  he  would  go  as  fast  as  possible  to  announce  my 
arrival,  explain  my  motive  for  coming  here,  and  ask  for  an  early 
interview,  as  I had  left  my  brother  Grant  behind  at  Karagub,  and 
found  my  position,  for  want  of  a friend  to  talk  to,  almost  intoler- 
able. It  was  not  the  custom  of  my  country  for  great  men  to  con- 
sort with  servants,  and  until  I saw  him,  and  made  friends,  I should 
not  be  happy.  I had  a great  deal  to  tell  him  about,  as  he  was 
the  father  of  the  Nile,  which  river  drained  the  N’yanza  down  to 
my  country  to  the  northward.  With  this  message  N’yamgundu 
hurried  off  as  fast  as  possible. 

Next  day  (15th)  I gave  each  of  my  men  a fez  cap,  and  a piece 
of  red  blanket  to  make  up  military  jackets.  I then  instructed 
them  how  to  form  a guard  of  honor  when  I went  to  the  palace, 
and  taught  Bombay  the  way  nazirs  were  presented  at  courts  in 
India.  Altogether  we  made  a good  show.  When  this  was  con- 
cluded, I went  with  Nasib  up  a hill,  from  which  we  could  see  the 
lake  on  one  side,  and  on  the  other  a large  range  of  huts  said  to 
belong  to  the  king’s  uncle,  the  second  of  the  late  king  Sunna’s 
brothers,  who  was  not  burnt  to  death  when  he  ascended  the 
throne. 

I then  (16th)  very  much  wished  to  go  and  see  the  escape  of  the 
Mwerango  Biver,  as  I still  felt  a little  skeptical  as  to  its  origin, 
whether  or  not  it  came  off  those  smaller  lakes  I had  seen  on  the 
road  the  day  before  I crossed  the  river : but  no  one  would  listen 
to  my  project.  They  all  said  I must  have  the  king’s  sanction 
first,  else  people,  from  not  knowing  my  object,  would  accuse  me 
of  practicing  witchcraft,  and  would  tell  their  king  .so.  They  still 
all  maintained  that  the  river  did  come  out  of  the  lake,  and  said, 


Feb.] 


KARAGUE  AND  UGANDA. 


275 


if  I liked  to  ask  the  king’s  leave  to  visit  the  spot,  then  they  would 
go  and  show  it  me.  I gave  way,  thinking  it  prudent  to  do  so, 
but  resolved  in  my  mind  I would  get  Grant  to  see  it  in  boats  on 
his  voyage  from  Karagiie.  There  were  no  Guinea-fowls  to  be 
found  here,  nor  a fowl  in  any  of  the  huts,  so  I requested  Eozaro 
to  hurry  off  to  Mtesa,  and  ask  him  to  send  me  something  to  eat. 
He  simply  laughed  at  my  request,  and  said  I did  not  know  what 
I was  doing.  It  would  be  as  much  as  his  life  was  worth  to  go 
one  yard  in  advance  of  this  until  the  king’s  leave  was  obtained. 
I said,  rather  than  be  starved  to  death  in  this  ignominious  man- 
ner, I would  return  to  Karagiie ; to  which  he  replied,  laughing, 
“Whose  leave  have  you  got  to  do  that?  Do  you  suppose  you 
can  do  as  you  like  in  this  country  ?” 

Next  day  (17th),  in  the  evening,  N’yamgundu  returned  full  of 
smirks  and  smiles,  dropped  on  his  knees  at  my  feet,  and,  in  com- 
pany with  his  “children,”  set  to  n’yanzigging,  according  to  the 
form  of  that  state  ceremonial  already  described.*  In  his  excite- 
ment he  was  hardly  able  to  say  all  he  had  to  communicate.  Bit 
by  bit,  however,  I learned  that  he  first  went  to  the  palace,  and, 
finding  the  king  had  gone  off  yachting  to  the  Murchison  Creek, 
he  followed  him  there.  The  king  for  a long  while  would  not  be- 
lieve his  tale  that  I had  come,  but,  being  assured,  he  danced  with 
delight,  and  swore  he  would  not  taste  food  until  he  had  seen  me. 
“ Oh,”  he  said,  over  and  over  again  and  again,  according  to  my 
informer,  “can  this  be  true?  Can  the  white  man  have  come  all 
this  way  to  see  me  ? What  a strong  man  he  must  be  too,  to  come 
so  quickly ! Here  are  seven  cows,  four  of  them  milch  ones,  as 
you  say  he  likes  milk,  which  you  will  give  him ; and  there  are 
three  for  yourself  for  having  brought  him  so  quickly.  Now 
hurry  off  as  fast  as  you  can,  and  tell  him  I am  more  delighted  at 
the  prospect  of  seeing  him  than  he  can  be  to  see  me.  There  is 
no  place  here  fit  for  his  reception.  I was  on  a pilgrimage  which 
would  have  kept  me  here  seven  days  longer;  but,  as  I am  so  im- 
patient to  see  him,  I will  go  off  to  my  palace  at  once,  and  will 
send  word  for  him  to  advance  as  soon  as  I arrive  there.” 

About  noon  the  succeeding  day,  some  pages  ran  in  to  say  we 
To  sunna’s  were  to  come  along  without  a moment’s  delay,  as  their 
Kibuga,  mh,  paq  orqered  it.  He  would  not  taste  food  until 

he  saw  me,  so  that  every  body  might  know  what  great  respect  he 
felt  for  me.  In  the  mean  while,  however,  he  wished  for  some 

* See  p.  250. 


276 


TIIE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


gunpowder.  I packed  the  pages  off  as  fast  as  I could  with,  some, 
and  then  tried  myself  to  follow,  but  my  men  were  all  either  sick 
or  out  foraging,  and  therefore  we  could  not  get  under  way  until 
the  evening.  After  going  a certain  distance,  we  came  on  a rush- 
drain,  of  much  greater  breadth  even  than  the  Mwerango,  called 
the  Moga  (or  river)  Myanza,  which  was  so  deep  I had  to  take  off 
my  trowsers  and  tuck  my  clothes  under  my  arms.  It  flowed  into 
the  Mwdrango,  but  with  scarcely  any  current  at  all.  This  rush- 
drain,  all  the  natives  assured  me,  rose  in  the  hills  to  the  south- 
ward— not  in  the  lake,  as  the  Mwerango  did— and  it  was  never 
bridged  over  like  that  river,  because  it  was  always  fordable. 
This  account  seemed  to  me  reasonable;  for,  though  so  much 
broader  in  its  bed  than  the  Mwerango,  it  had  no  central,  deep- 
flowing current.  The  time  for  judging  as  to  their  relative  size, 
too,  was  favorable,  as  it  was  the  height  of  the  dry  season,  when 
most  of  the  long  grasses  were  burnt.  When  we  were  across  this 
great  rush-drain  it  was  almost  dark,  so  I gave  orders  to  spend  the 
night  in  the  most  favorable  spot  we  could  find.  We  had,  how- 
ever, to  pass  the  late  king  Sunna’s  kibiiga  or  palace  before  this 
could  be  done,  as  no  eyes  were  allowed  to  dwell  on  the  royal  es- 
tablishments of  departed  kings. 

One  march  more,  and  we  came  in  sight  of  the  king’s  kibiiga  or 
palace,  in  the  province  of  Bandawarogo,  1ST.  lat.  0°  21' 
go,  1.9 (ft.  ‘ 19//}  and  E.  long.  32°  44'  30".  It  was  a magnificent 

sight.  A whole  hill  was  covered  with  gigantic  huts,  such  as  I 
had  never  seen  in  Africa  before.  I wished  to  go  up  to  the  palace 
at  once,  but  the  officers  said  “No,  that  would  be  considered  in- 
decent in  Uganda ; you  must  draw  up  your  men,  and  fire  your 
guns  off,  to  let  the  king  know  you  are  here ; we  will  then  show 
you  your  residence,  and  to-morrow  you  will  doubtless  be  sent  for, 
as  the  king  could  not  now  hold  a levee  while  it  is  raining.”  I 
made  the  men  fire,  and  then  was  shown  into  a lot  of  dirty  huts, 
which,  they  said,  were  built  expressly  for  all  the  king’s  visitors. 
The  Arabs,  when  they  came  on  their  visits,  always  put  up  here, 
and  I must  do  the  same.  At  first  I stuck  out  on  my  claims  as  a 
foreign  prince,  whose  royal  blood  could  not  stand  such  an  indig- 
nity. The  palace  was  my  sphere,  and  unless  I could  get  a hut 
there,  I would  return  without  seeing  the  king. 

In  a terrible  fright  at  my  blustering,  N’yamgundu  fell  at  my 
feet,  and  implored  me  not  to  be  hasty.  The  king  did  not  under- 
stand who  I was,  and  could  not  be  spoken  to  then.  He  implored 


VIEW  OF  KINO  MTESA’S  PALACE  FROM  MY  IIUT — UGANDA 


Feb.] 


KARAGUE  AND  UGANDA. 


279 


me  to  be  content  with  my  lot  for  the  present,  after  which  the 
king,  when  he  knew  all  about  it,  would  do  as  I liked,  he  was  sure, 
though  no  strangers  had  ever  yet  been  allowed  to  reside  within 
the  royal  inclosures.  I gave  way  to  this  good  man’s  appeal,  and 
cleaned  my  hut  by  firing  the  ground,  for,  like  all  the  huts  in  this 
dog  country,  it  was  full  of  fleas.  Once  ensconced  there,  the  king’s 
pages  darted  in  to  see  me,  bearing  a message  from  their  master, 
who  said  he  was  sorry  the  rain  prevented  him  from  holding  a 
levee  that  day,  but  the  next  he  would  be  delighted  to  see  me. 
Irungu,  with  all  Suwarora’s  men,  then  came  to  a collection  of 
huts  near  where  I was  residing  ; and  while  I lay  in  bed  that  night, 
Irungu,  with  all  his  wives,  came  in  to  see  me  and  beg  for  beads. 


280 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[18G2. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

PALACE,  UGANDA. 

Preparations  for  the  Reception  at  the  Court  of  Mtesa,  King  of  Uganda. — The  Cere- 
monial.— African  Diplomacy  and  Dignity. — Feats  with  the  Rifle. — Cruelty,  and 
Wastefulness  of  Life. — The  Pages. — The  Queen-dowager  of  Uganda. — Her  Court 
Reception. — I negotiate  for  a Palace. — Conversations  with  the  King  and  Queen. 
— The  Queen’s  grand  Entertainment. — Royal  Dissipation. 

To-day  tlie  king  sent  bis  pages  to  announce  bis  intention  of 
Halt,  from  wth  bolding  a levee  in  my  honor.  I prepared  for  my 
Feb.  to  ith  juiy.  prst  presentation  at  court,  attired  in  my  best,  tbougb 
in  it  I cut  a poor  figure  in  comparison  with  the  display  of  the 


Mganda,  or  Native  of  Uganda. 

dressy  Waganda.  They  wore  neat  bark  cloaks  resembling  the 
best  yellow  corduroy  cloth,  crimp  and  well  set,  as  if  stiffened  with 
starch,  and  over  that,  as  upper  cloaks,  a patchwork  of  small  ante- 
lope skins,  which  I observed  were  sewn  together  as  well  as  any 


Feb.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


281 


English  glovers  could  have  pieced  them ; while  their  head-dress- 
es, generally,  were  abrus  turbans,'  set  off  with  highly -polished 
boar-tusks,  stick-charms,  seeds,  beads,  or  shells ; and  on  their 
necks,  arms,  and  ankles  they  wore  other  charms  of  wood,  or  small 
horns  stuffed  with  magic  powder,  and  fastened  on  by  strings  gen- 
erally covered  with  snakeskin.  N’yamgundu  and  Maula  demand 
ed,  as  their  official  privilege,  a first  peep ; and  this  being  refused, 
they  tried  to  persuade  me  that  the  articles  comprising  the  present 
required  to  be  covered  with  chintz,  for  it  was  considered  indeco- 
rous to  offer  any  thing  to  his  majesty  in  a naked  state.  This  lit- 
tle interruption  over,  the  articles  enumerated  below*  were  con- 
veyed to  the  palace  in  solemn  procession  thus:  With  N’yamgun- 
du, Maula,  the  pages,  and  myself  on  the  flanks,  the  Union  Jack, 
carried  by  the  kirangozi  guide,  led  the  wajr,  followed  by  twelve 
men  as  a guard  of  honor,  dressed  in  red  flannel  cloaks,  and  carry- 
ing their  arms  sloped,  with  fixed  bayonets ; while  in  their  rear 
were  the  rest  of  my  men,  each  carrying  some  article  as  a present. 

On  the  march  toward  the  palace,  the  admiring  courtiers,  won- 
der-struck at  such  an  unusual  display,  exclaimed,  in  raptures  of 
astonishment,  some  with  both  hands  at  their  mouths,  and  others 
clasping  their  heads  with  their  hands,  “Irungi!  irungi!”  which 
may  be  translated  “ Beautiful ! beautiful !”  I thought  myself  ev- 
ery thing  was  going  on  as  well  as  could  be  wished ; but,  before 
entering  the  royal  inclosures,  I found,  to  my  disagreeable  surprise, 
that  the  men  with  Suwarora’s  hongo  or  offering,  which  consisted 
of  more  than  a hundred  coils  of  wire,  were  ordered  to  lead  the 
procession,  and  take  precedence  of  me.  There  was  something 
specially  aggravating  in  this  precedence;  for  it  will  be  remem- 
bered that  these  very  brass  wires  which  they  saw  I had  myself 
intended  for  Mtesa ; that  they  were  taken  from  me  by  Suwarora 
as  far  back  as  Usui ; and  it  would  never  do,  without  remon- 
strance, to  have  them  boastfully  paraded  before  my  eyes  in  this 
fashion.  My  protests,  however,  had  no  effect  upon  the  escorting 
wakungu.  Resolving  to  make  them  catch  it,  I walked  along  as 
if  ruminating  in  anger  up  the  broad  high  road  into  a cleared 
square,  which  divides  Mtesa’s  domain  on  the  south  from  his  kam- 
raviona’s,  or  commander-in-chief,  on  the  north,  and  then  turned 

* 1 block-tin  box,  4 rich  silk  cloths,  1 rifle  (Whitworth’s),  1 gold  chronometer,  1 
revolver  pistol,  3 rifled  carbines,  3 sword-bayonets,  1 box  ammunition,  1 box  bullets, 
1 box  gun-caps,  1 telescope,  1 iron  chair,  10  bundles  best  beads,  1 set  of  table-knives, 
spoons,  and  forks. 


282 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


into  the  court.  The  palace  or  entrance  quite  surprised  me  by  its 
extraordinary  dimensions,  and  the  neatness  with  which  it  was 
kept.  The  whole  brow  and  sides  of  the  hill  on  which  we  stood 
were  covered  with  gigantic  grass  huts,  thatched  as  neatly  as  so 
many  heads  dressed  by  a London  barber,  and  fenced  all  round 
with  the  tall  yellow  reeds  of  the  common  Uganda  tiger-grass ; 
while  within  the  inclosure  the  lines  of  huts  were  joined  together, 
or  partitioned  off  into  courts,  with  walls  of  the  same  grass.  It  is 
here  most  of  Mtesa’s  three  or  four  hundred  women  are  kept,  the 
rest  being  quartered  chiefly  with  his  mother,  known  by  the  title 
of  N’yamasore,  or  queen-dowager.  They  stood  in  little  groups  at 
the  doors,  looking  at  us,  and  evidently  passing  their  own  remarks, 
and  enjoying  their  own  jokes,  on  the  triumphal  procession.  At 
each  gate  as  we  passed,  officers  on  duty  opened  and  shut  it  for  us, 
jingling  the  big  bells  which  are  hung  upon  them,  as  they  some- 
times are  at  shop  doors,  to  prevent  silent,  stealthy  entrance. 

The  first  court  passed,  I was  even  more  surprised  to  find  the 
unusual  ceremonies  that  awaited  me.  There  courtiers  of  high 
dignity  stepped  forward  to  greet  me,  dressed  in  the  most  scrupu- 
lously neat  fashions.  Men,  women,  bulls,  dogs,  and  goats  were 
led  about  by  strings ; cocks  and  hens  were  carried  in  men’s  arms ; 
and  little  pages,  with  rope  turbans,  rushed  about,  conveying  mes- 
sages, as  if  their  lives  depended  on  their  swiftness,  every  one 
holding  his  skin  cloak  tightly  round  him  lest  his  naked  legs 
might  by  accident  be  shown. 

This,  then,  was  the  ante-reception  court;  and  I might  have 
taken  possession  of  the  hut,  in  which  musicians  were  playing  and 
singing  on  large  nine-stringed  harps,  like  the  Nubian  tambira,  ac- 
companied by  harmonicons.  By  the  chief  officers  in  waiting, 
however,  who  thought  fit  to  treat  us  like  Arab  merchants,  I was 
requested  to  sit  on  the  ground  outside  in  the  sun  with  my  serv- 
ants. Now  I had  made  up  my  mind  never  to  sit  upon  the  ground 
as  the  natives  and  Arabs  are  obliged  to  do,  nor  to  make  my  obei- 
sance in  any  other  manner  than  is  customary  in  England,  though 
the  Arabs  had  told  me  that  from  fear  they  had  always  complied 
with  the  manners  of  the  court.  I felt  that  if  I did  not  stand  up 
for  my  social  position  at  once,  I should  be  treated  with  contempt 
during  the  remainder  of  my  visit,  and  thus  lose  the  vantage- 
ground  I had  assumed  of  appearing  rather  as  a prince  than  a 
trader,  for  the  purpose  of  better  gaining  the  confidence  of  the 
king.  To  avert  overhastiness,  however — for  my  servants  began 


Feb.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


283 


to  be  alarmed  as  I demurred  against  doing  as  I was  bid — I allow- 
ed five  minutes  to  the  court  to  give  me  a proper  reception,  saying 
if  it  were  not  conceded  I would  then  walk  away. 

Nothing,  however,  was  done.  My  own  men,  knowing  me, 
feared  for  me,  as  they  did  not  know  what  a “savage”  king  would 
do  in  case  I carried  out  my  threat;  while  the  Waganda,  lost  in 
amazement  at  what  seemed  little  less  than  blasphemy,  stood  still 
as  posts.  The  affair  ended  by  my  walking  straight  away  home, 
giving  Bombay  orders  to  leave  the  present  on  the  ground,  and  to 
follow  me. 

Although  the  king  is  said  to  be  unapproachable  excepting  when 
he  chooses  to  attend  court — a ceremony  which  rarely  happens — 
intelligence  of  my  hot  wrath  and  hasty  departure  reached  him  in 
an  instant.  He  first,  it  seems,  thought  of  leaving  his  toilet-room 
to  follow  me;  but,  finding  I was  walking  fast  and  had  gone  far, 
changed  his  mind,  and  sent  wakungu  running  after  me.  Poor 
creatures ! they  caught  me  up,  fell  upon  their  knees,  and  implored 
I would  return  at  once,  for  the  king  had  not  tasted  food,  and 
would  not  until  he  saw  me.  I felt  grieved  at  their  touching  ap- 
peals; but,  as  I did  not  understand  all  they  said,  I simply  replied 
by  patting  my  heart  and  shaking  my  head,  walking,  if  any  thing, 
all  the  faster. 

On  my  arrival  at  my  hut,  Bombay  and  others  came  in,  wet 
through  with  perspiration,  saying  the  king  had  heard  of  all  my 
grievances.  Suwarora’s  hongo  was  turned  out  of  court,  and,  if  I 
desired  it,  I might  bring  my  own  chair  with  me,  for  he  was  very 
anxious  to  show  me  great  respect,  although  such  a seat  was  ex- 
clusively the  attribute  of  the  king,  no  one  else  in  Uganda  daring 
to  sit  on  an  artificial  seat. 

My  point  was  gained, 'so  I cooled  myself  with  coffee  and  a pipe, 
and  returned  rejoicing  in  my  victory,  especially  over  Suwarora. 
After  returning  to  the  second  tier  of  huts  from  which  I had  re- 
tired, every  body  appeared  to  be  in  a hurried,  confused  state  of 
excitement,  not  knowing  what  to  make  out  of  so  unprecedented 
an  exhibition  of  temper.  In  the  most  polite  manner,  the  officers 
in  waiting  begged  me  to  be  seated  on  my  iron  stool,  which  I had 
brought  with  me,  while  others  hurried  in  to  announce  my  arrival. 
But  for  a few  minutes  only  I was  kept  in  suspense,  when  a band 
of  music,  the  musicians  wearing  on  their  backs  long-haired  goat- 
skins, passed  me,  dancing  as  they  went  along  like  bears  in  a fair, 
and  playing  on  reed  instruments  worked  over  with  pretty  beads 


284  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [1862. 

in  various  patterns,  from  which  depended  leopard-cat  skins,  the 
time  being  regulated  by  the  beating  of  long  hand-drums. 

The  mighty  king  was  now  reported  to  be  sitting  on  his  throne 
in  the  state  hut  of  the  third  tier.  I advanced,  hat  in  hand,  with 
my  guard  of  honor  following,  formed  in  “ open  ranks,”  who  in 
their  turn  were  followed  by  the  bearers  carrying  the  present.  I 
did  not  walk  straight  up  to  him  as  if  to  shake  hands,  but  went 
outside  the  ranks  of  a three-sided  square  of  squatting  wakungu., 
all  habited  in  skins,  mostly  cowskins ; some  few  of  whom  had, 
in  addition,  leopard-cat  skins  girt  round  the  waist,  the  sign  of 
royal  blood.  Here  I was  desired  to  halt  and  sit  in  the  glaring- 
sun  ; so  I donned  my  hat,  mounted  my  umbrella,  a phenomenon 
which  set  them  all  a wondering  and  laughing,  ordered  the  guard 
to  close  ranks,  and  sat  gazing  at  the  novel  spectacle.  A more 
theatrical  sight  I never  saw.  The  king,  a good-looking,  well- 
figured,  tall  young  man  of  twenty-five,  was  sitting  on  a red  blank- 
et spread  upon  a square  platform  of  royal  grass,  incased  in  tiger- 
grass  reeds,  scrupulously  well  dressed  in  a new  mbugu.  The 
hair  of  his  head  was  cut  short,  excepting  on  the  top,  where  it  was 
combed  up  into  a high  ridge,  running  from  stem  to  stern  like  a 
cock’s  comb.  On  his  neck  was  a very  neat  ornament — a large 
ring,  of  beautifully-worked  small  beads,  forming  elegant  patterns 
by  their  various  colors.  On  one  arm  was  another  bead  orna- 
ment, prettily  devised ; and  on  the  other  a wooden  charm,  tied 
by  a string  covered  with  snakeskin.  On  every  finger  and  every 
toe  he  had  alternate  brass  and  copper  rings;  and  above  the  an- 
kles, half  way  up  to  the  calf,  a stocking  of  very  pretty  beads.  Every 
thing  was  light,  neat,  and  elegant  in  its  way ; not  a fault  could 
be  found  with  the  taste  of  his  “getting  up.”  For  a handkerchief 
he  held  a well-folded  piece  of  bark,  and  a piece  of  gold-embroid- 
ered silk,  which  he  constantly  employed  to  hide  his  large  mouth 
when  laughing,  or  to  wipe  it  after  a drink  of  plantain  wine,  of 
which  he  took  constant  and  copious  draughts  from  neat  little 
gourd-cups,  administered  by  his  ladies  in  waiting,  who  were  at 
once  his  sisters  and  wives.  A wThite  dog,  spear,  shield,  and  wom- 
an— the  Uganda  cognizance — were  by  his  side,  as  also  a knot  of 
staff  officers,  with  whom  he  kept  up  a brisk  conversation  on  one 
side ; and  on  the  other  was  a band  of  wickwezi,  or  lady-sorcer- 
ers, such  as  I have  already  described. 

I was  now  asked  to  draw  nearer  within  the  hollow  square  of 
squatters,  where  leopard-skins  were  strewed  upon  the  ground,  and 


Fee.]  PALACE,  UGANDA.  285 

a large  copper  kettle-drum,  surmounted  with  brass  bells  on  arch- 
ing wires,  along  with  two  other  smaller  drums  covered  with 
cowrie -shells,  and  beads  of  color  worked  into  patterns,  were 
placed.  I now  longed  to  open  conversation,  but  knew  not  the 
language,  and  no  one  near  me  dared  speak,  or  even  lift  his  head 
from  fear  of  being  accused  of  eying  the  women ; so  the  king  and 
myself  sat  staring  at  one  another  for  full  an  hour — I mute,  but 
he  pointing  and  remarking  with  those  around  him  on  the  novelty 
of  my  guard  and  general  appearance,  and  even  requiring  to  see 
my  hat  lifted,  the  umbrella  shut  and  opened,  and  the  guards  face 
about  and  show  off  their  red  cloaks — for  such  wonders  had  never 
been  seen  in  Uganda. 

Then,  finding  the  day  waning,  he  sent  Maul  a on  an  embassy  to 
ask  me  if  I had  seen  him  ; and  on  receiving  my  reply,  “Yes,- for 


full  one  hour,”  I was  glad  to  find  him  rise,  spear  in  hand,  lead  his 
dog,  and  walk  unceremoniously  away  through  the  inclosure  into 


286 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


the  fourth  tier  of  huts ; for  this  being  a pure  levee  day,  no  busi- 
ness was  transacted.  The  king’s  gait  in  retiring  was  intended  to 
be  very  majestic,  but  did  not  succeed  in  conveying  to  me  that 
impression.  It  was  the  traditional  walk  of  his  race,  founded  on 
the  step  of  the  lion ; but  the  outward  sweep  of  the  legs,  intended 
to  represent  the  stride  of  the  noble  beast,  appeared  to  me  only  to 
realize  a very  ludicrous  kind  of  waddle,  which  made  me  ask 
Bombay  if  any  thing  serious  was  the  matter  with  the  royal  per- 
son. 

I had  now  to  wait  for  some  time,  almost  as  an  act  of  humanity; 
for  I was  told  the  state  secret,  that  the  king  had  retired  to  break 
his  fast  and  eat  for  the  first  time  since  hearing  of  my  arrival ; but 
the  repast  was  no  sooner  over  than  he  prepared  for  the  second 
act,  to  show  off  his  splendor,  and  I was  invited  in,  with  all  my 
men,  to  the  exclusion  of  all  his  own  officers  save  my  two  guides. 
Entering  as  before,  I found  him  standing  on  a red  blanket,  lean- 
ing against  the  right  portal  of  the  hut,  talking  and  laughing, 
handkerchief  in  hand,  to  a hundred  or  more  of  his  admiring 
wives,  who,  all  squatting  on  the  ground  outside,  in  two  groups, 
were  dressed  in  new  mbugus.  My  men  dared  not  advance  up- 
right, nor  look  upon  the  women,  but,  stooping,  with  lowered 
heads  and  averted  eyes,  came  cringing  after  me.  Unconscious 
myself,  I gave  loud  and  impatient  orders  to  my  guard,  rebuking 
them  for  moving  like  frightened  geese,  and,  with  hat  in  hand, 
stood  gazing  on  the  fair  sex  till  directed  to  sit  and  cap. 

Mtesa  then  inquired  what  messages  were  brought  from  Buma- 
nika ; to  which  Maula,  delighted  with  the  favor  of  speaking  to  roy- 
alty, replied  by  saying  Rumanika  had  gained  intelligence  of  Eng- 
lishmen coming  up  the  Nile  to  Gfani  and  Kidi.  The  king  ac- 
knowledged the  truthfulness  of  their  story,  saying  he  had  heard 
the  same  himself;  and  both  wakungu,  as  is  the  custom  in  Ugan- 
da, thanked  their  lord  in  a very  enthusiastic  manner,  kneeling  on 
the  ground — for  no  one  can  stand  in  the  presence  of  his  majesty 
— in  an  attitude  of  prayer,  and  throwing  out  their  hands  as  they 
repeated  the  words  n’yanzig,  n’yanzig,  ai  n’yanzig  mkahma  wan- 
gi,  etc.,  etc.,  for  a considerable  time ; when,  thinking  they  had 
done  enough  of  this,  and  heated  with  the  exertion,  they  threw 
themselves  flat  upon  their  stomachs,  and,  floundering  about  like 
fish  on  land,  repeated  the  same  words  over  again  and  again,  and 
rose  doing  the  same,  with  their  faces  covered. with  earth;  for 
majesty  in  Uganda  is  never  satisfied  till  subjects  have  groveled 


Feb.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


287 


before  it  like  the  most  abject  worms.  This  conversation  over, 
after  gazing  at  me,  and  chatting  with  his  women  for  a consider- 
able time,  the  second  scene  ended.  The  third  scene  was  more 
easily  arranged,  for  the  day  was  fast  declining.  He  simply  moved 
with  his  train  of  women  to  another  hut,  where,  after  seating  him- 
self upon  his  throne,  with  his  women  around  him,  he  invited  me 
to  approach  the  nearest  limits  of  propriety,  and  to  sit  as  before. 
Again  he  asked  me  if  I had  seen  him,  evidently  desirous  of  in- 
dulging in  his  regal  pride ; so  I made  the  most  of  the  opportunity 
thus  afforded  me  of  opening  a conversation  by  telling  him*  of  those 
grand  reports  I had  formerly  heard  about  him,  which  induced  me 
to  come  all  this  way  to  see  him,  and  the  trouble  it  had  cost  me  to 
reach  the  object  of  my  desire;  at  the  same  time  taking  a gold 
ring  from  off  my  finger,  and  presenting  it  to  him,  I said,  “ This  is 
a small  token  of  friendship  ; if  you  will  inspect  it,  it  is  made  after 
the  fashion  of  a dog-collar,  and,  being  the  king  of  metals,  gold,  is 
in  every  respect  appropriate  to  your  illustrious  race.” 

He  said,  in  return,  “ If  friendship  is  your  desire,  what  would 
you  say  if  I showed  you  a road  by  which  you  might  reach  your 
home  in  one  month?”  Now  every  thing  had  to  be  told  to  Bom- 
bay, then  to  Nasib,  my  Kiganda  interpreter,  and  then  to  either 
Maula  or  N’yamgundu,  before  it  was  delivered  to  the  king,  for  it 
was  considered  indecorous  to  transmit  any  message  to  his  majesty 
excepting  through  the  medium  of  one  of  his  officers.  Hence  I 
could  not  get  an  answer  put  in ; for  as  all  Waganda  are  rapid  and 
impetuous  in  their  conversation,  the  king,  probably  forgetting  he 
had  put  a question,  hastily  changed  the  conversation  and  said, 
“ What  guns  have  you  got  ? Let  me  see  the  one  you  shoot  with.” 
I wished  still  to  answer  the  first  question  first,  as  I knew  he  re- 
ferred to  the  direct  line  to  Zanzibar  across  the  Masai,  and  was 
anxious,  without  delay,  to  open  the  subject  of  Petherick  and 
Grant;  but  no  one  dared  to  deliver  my  statement.  Much  disap- 
pointed, I then  said,  “ I had  brought  the  best  shooting-gun  in  the 
world — Whitworth’s  rifle — which  I begged  he  would  accept,  with 
a few  other  trifles ; and,  with  his  permission,  I would  lay  them 
upon  a carpet  at  his  feet,  as  is  the  custom  of  my  country  when 
visiting  sultans.”  He  assented,  sent  all  his  women  away,  and  had 
an  mbugu  spread  for  the  purpose,  on  which  Bombay,  obeying  my 
order,  first  spread  a red  blanket,  and  then  opened  each  article  one 
after  the  other,  when  Nasib,  according  to  the  usage  already  men- 
tioned, smoothed  them  down  with  his  dirty  hands,  or  rubbed  them 


288 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


against  his  sooty  face,  and  handed  them  to  the  king  to  show  there 
was  no  poison  or  witchcraft  in  them.  Mtesa  appeared  quite  con- 
fused with  the  various  wonders  as  he  handled  them,  made  silly 
remarks,  and  pondered  over  them  like  a perfect  child,  until  it  was 
quite  dark.  Torches  were  then  lit,  and  guns,  pistols,  powder, 
boxes,  tools,  beads — the  whole  collection,  in  short — were  tossed 
together  topsy-turvy,  bundled  into  mbugus,  and  carried  away  by 
the  pages.  Mtesa  now  said,  “It  is  late,  and  time  to  break  up; 
what  provisions  would  you  wish  to  have?”  I said,  “A  little  of 
every  thing,  but  no  one  thing  constantly.”  “And  would  you  like 
to  see  me  to-morrow  ?”  “ Yes,  every  day.”  “ Then  you  can’t  to- 
morrow, for  I have  business ; but  the  next  day  come  if  you  like. 
You  can  now  go  away,  and  here  are  six  pots  of  plantain  wine  for 
you ; my  men  will  search  for  food  to-morrow.” 

21st.  In  the  morning,  while  it  rained,  some  pages  drove  in  twen- 
ty cows  and  ten  goats,  with  a polite  metaphorical  message  from 
their  king  to  the  effect  that  I had  pleased  him  much,  and  he  hoped 
I would  accept  these  few  “ chickens”  until  he  could  send  more ; 
when  both  Maul  a and  N’yamgundu,  charmed  with  their  success 
in  having  brought  a welcome  guest  to  Uganda,  never  ceased 
showering  eulogiums  on  me  for  my  fortune  in  having  gained  the 
countenance  of  their  king.  The  rain  falling  was  considered  at 
court  a good  omen,  and  every  body  declared  the  king  mad  with 
delight.  Wishing  to  have  a talk  with  him  about  Petherick  and 
Grant,  I at  once  started  off  the  wakungu  to  thank  him  for  the 
present,  and  to  beg  pardon  for  my  apparent  rudeness  of  yesterday, 
at  the  same  time  requesting  I might  have  an  early  interview  with 
his  majesty,  as  I had  much  of  importance  to  communicate ; but 
the  solemn  court  formalities,  which  these  African  kings  affect  as 
much  as  Oriental  emperors,  precluded  my  message  from  reaching 
the  king.  I heard,  however,  that  he  had  spent  the  day  receiving 
Suwarora’s  hongo  of  wire,  and  that  the  officer  who  brought  them 
was  made  to  sit  in  an  empty  court,  while  the  king  sat  behind  a 
screen,  never  deigning  to  show  his  majestic  person.  I was  told, 
too,  that  he  opened  conversation  by  demanding  to  know  how  it 
happened  that  Suwarora  became  possessed  of  the  wires,  for  they 
were  made  by  the  white  men  to  be  given  to  himself,  and  Suwa- 
rora must  therefore  have  robbed  me  of  them ; and  it  was  by  such 
practices  he,  Mtesa,  never  could  see  any  visitors.  The  officer’s 
reply  was,  Suwarora  would  not  show  the  white  men  any  respect, 
because  they  were  wizards  who  did  not  sleep  in  houses  at  night, 


Feb.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


289 


but  flew  up  to  the  tops  of  hills,  and  practiced  sorcery  of  every 
abominable  kind.  The  king  to  this  retorted,  in  a truly  African 
fashion,  “ That’s  a lie ; I can  see  no  harm  in  this  white  man  ; and 
if  he  had  been  a bad  man,  Rumanika  would  not  have  sent  him  on 
to  me.”  At  night,  when  in  bed,  the  king  sent  his  pages  to  say,  if 
I desired  his  friendship,  I would  lend  him  one  musket  to  make  up 
six  with  what  I had  given  him,  for  he  intended  visiting  his  rela- 
tions the  following  morning.  I sent  three,  feeling  that  nothing 
would  be  lost  by  being  “ open-handed.” 

22 d.  To-day  the  king  went  the  round  of  his  relations,  showing 
the  beautiful  things  given  him  by  the  white  man — a clear  proof 
that  he  was  much  favored  by  the  “ spirits,”  for  neither  his  father 
nor  any  of  his  forefathers  had  been  so  recognized  and  distinguish- 
ed by  any  “ sign”  as  a rightful  inheritor  to  the  Uganda  throne : 
an  anti-Christian  interpretation  of  omens,  as  rife  in  these  dark  re- 
gions now  as  it  was  in  the  time  of  King  Nebuchadnezzar.  At 
midnight  the  three  muskets  were  returned,  and  I was  so  pleased 
with  the  young  king’s  promptitude  and  honesty,  I begged  he 
would  accept  them. 

23 d.  At  noon  Mtesa  sent  his  pages  to  invite  me  to  his  palace. 
I went,  with  my  guard  of  honor  and  my  stool,  but  found  I had  to 
sit  waiting  in  an  ante-hut  three  hours  with  his  commander-in-chief 
and  other  high  officers  before  he  was  ready  to  see  me.  During 
this  time  Wasoga  minstrels,  playing  on  tambira,  and  accompanied 
by  boys  playing  on  a harmonicon,  kept  us  amused ; and  a small 
page,  with  a large  bundle  of  grass,  came  to  me  and  said,  “ The 
king  hopes  you  won’t  be  offended  if  required  to  sit  on  it  before 
him ; for  no  person  in  Uganda,  however  high  in  office,  is  ever  al- 
lowed to  sit  upon  any  thing  raised  above  the  ground,  nor  can  any 
body  but  himself  sit  upon  such  grass  as  this ; it  is  all  that  his 
throne  is  made  of.  The  first  day  he  only  allowed  you  to  sit  on 
your  stool  to  appease  your  wrath.” 

On  consenting  to  do  in  “ Rome  as  the  Romans  do,”  when  my 
position  was  so  handsomely  acknowledged,  I was  called  in,  and 
found  the  court  sitting  much  as  it  was  on  the  first  day’s  interview, 
only  that  the  number  of  squatting  wakungu  was  much  diminish- 
ed ; and  the  king,  instead  of  wearing  his  ten  brass  and  copper 
rings,  had  my  gold  one  on  his  third  finger.  This  day,  however, 
was  cut  out  for  business,  as,  in  addition  to  the  assemblage  of  offi- 
cers, there  were  women,  cows,  goats,  fowls,  confiscations,  baskets 
of  fish,  baskets  of  small  antelopes,  porcupines,  and  curious  rats 

T 


290 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


caught  by  his  gamekeepers,  bundles  of  mbugii,  etc.,  etc.,  made  by 
his  linen-drapers,  colored  earths  and  sticks  by  his  magician,  all 
ready  for  presentation ; but,  as  rain  fell,  the  court  broke  up,  and 
I had  nothing  for  it  but  to  walk  about  under  my  umbrella,  in- 
dulging in  angry  reflections  against  the  haughty  king  for  not  in- 
viting me  into  his  hut. 

When  the  rain  had  ceased,  and  we  were  again  called  in,  he  was 
found  sitting  in  state  as  before,  but  this  time  with  the  head  of  a 
black  bull  placed  before  him,  one  horn  of  which,  knocked  off,  was 
placed  alongside,  while  four  living  cows  walked  about  the  court. 

I was  now  requested  to  shoot  the  four  cows  as  quickly  as  pos- 
sible; but,  having  no  bullets  for  my  gun,  I borrowed  the  revolv- 
ing pistol  I had  given  him,  and  shot  all  four  in  a second  of  time ; 
but  as  the  last  one,  only  wounded,  turned  sharply  upon  me,  I 
gave  him  the  fifth  and  settled  him.  Great  applause  followed  this 
wonderful  feat,  and  the  cows  were  given  to  my  men.  The  king 
now  loaded  one  of  the  carbines  I had  given  him  with  his  own 
hands,  and  giving  it  full-cock  to  a page,  told  him  to  go  out  and 
shoot  a man  in  the  outer  court,  which  was  no  sooner  accomplished 
than  the  little  urchin  returned  to  announce  his  success  with  a look 
of  glee  such  as  one  would  see  in  the  face  of  a boy  who  had  robbed 
a bird’s  nest,  caught  a trout,  or  done  any  other  boyish  trick.  The 
king  said  to  him,  “And  did  you  do  it  well?”  “Oh  yes,  capital- 
ly.” He  spoke  the  truth,  no  doubt,  for  he  dared  not  have  trifled 
with  the  king;  but  the  affair  created  hardly  any  interest.  I never 
heard,  and  there  appeared  no  curiosity  to  know,  what  individual 
human  being  the  urchin  had  deprived  of  life. 

The  wakungu  were  now  dismissed,  and  I asked  to  draw  near, 
when  the  king  showed  me  a book  I had  given  to  Rumanika,  and 
begged  for  the  inspiring  medicine  which  he  had  before  applied  for 
through  the  mystic  stick.  The  day  was  now  gone,  so  torches 
were  lit,  and  we  were  ordered  to  go,  though  as  yet  I had  not  been 
able  to  speak  one  word  I wished  to  impart  about  Petherick  and 
Grant ; for  my  interpreters  were  so  afraid  of  the  king  they  dared 
not  open  their  mouths  until  they  were  spoken  to.  The  king  was 
now  rising  to  go,  when,  in  great  fear  and  anxiety  that  the  day 
would  be  lost,  I said,  in  Kisuahili,  “I  wish  you  would  vsend  a 
letter  by  post  to  Grant,  and  also  send  a boat  up  to  Kitangule,  as 
far  as  Rumanika’s  palace,  for  him,  for  he  is  totally  unable  to 
walk.”  I thus  attracted  his  notice,  though  he  did  not  understand 
one  word  I uttered.  The  result  was,  that  he  waited  for  the  inter- 


Feb.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


291 


pretation,  and  replied  that  a post  would  be  of  no  use,  for  no  one 
would  be  responsible  for  the  safe  delivery  of  the  message ; he 
would  send  N’yamgundu  to  fetch  him,  but  he  thought  Rumanika 
would  not  consent  to  his  sending  boats  up  the  Kitanguld  as  far 
as  the  Little  Windermere ; and  then,  turning  round  with  true 
Mganda  impetuosity,  he  walked  away  without  taking  a word  from 
me  in  exchange. 

24 th.  Early  this  morning  the  pages  came  to  say  Mtesa  desired 
I would  send  him  three  of  my  Wanguana  to  shoot  cows  before 
him.  This  was  just  what  I wanted.  It  had  struck  me  that  per- 
sonal conferences  with  me  so  roused  the  excitable  king  that  there 
was  no  bringing  plain  matters  of  business  home  to  him ; so,  de- 
taching seven  men  with  Bombay,  I told  him,  before  shooting,  to 
be  sure  and  elicit  the  matter  I wanted,  which  was,  to  excite  the 
king’s  cupidity  by  telling  him  I had  a boat  full  of  stores,  with  two 
white  men,  at  Gani,  whom  I wished  to  call  to  me  if  he  would  fur- 
nish some  guides  to  accompany  my  men;  and  farther,  as  Grant 
could  not  walk,  I wished  boats  sent  for  him,  at  least  as  far  as  the 
ferry  on  the  Kitangule,  to  which  place  Rumanika,  at  any  rate) 
would  slip  him  down  in  canoes.  At  once,  on  arriving,  Mtesa  ad- 
mitted the  men,  and  ordered  them  to  shoot  at  some  cows;  but 
Bombay,  obeying  my  orders  to  first  have  his  talk  out,  said,  No; 
before  he  could  shoot  he  must  obey  master  and  deliver  his  mes- 
sage ; which  no  sooner  was  told  than  the  king,  in  a hurry,  excited 
by  the  prospects  of  sport,. impatiently  said,  “Very  good;  I will 
send  men  either  by  water,  or  overland  through  Kidi,*  just  as  your 
master  likes;  only  some  of  his  men  had  better  go  with  mine ; but 
now  shoot  cows,  shoot  cows,  for  I want  to  see  how  the  Wanguana 
shoot.”  They  shot  seven,  and  all  were  given  to  them  when  they 
were  dismissed.  In  the  evening  the  pages  came  to  ask  me  if  I 
would  like  to  shoot  kites  in  the  palace  with  their  king ; but  I de- 
clined shooting  any  thing  less  than  elephants,  rhinoceros,  or  buf- 
faloes, and  even  for  these  I would  not  go  out  unless  the  king  went 
with  me — a dodge,  I conceived,  would  tend  more  than  any  other 
to  bring  us  together,  and  so  break  through  those  ceremonial  re- 
straints of  the  court,  which  at  present  were  stopping  all  plans  of 
progression. 

25 th.  The  king  invited  me  to  shoot  with  him — really  buffaloes 
— close  to  the  palace;  but,  as  the  pages  had  been  sent  off  in  a 

* The  straight  road  down  the  Nile  through  Unyoro  no  one  dared  allude  to  at  this 
time,  as  the  two  kings  were  always  fighting. 


292 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


hurry,  without  being  fully  instructed,  I declined,  on  the  plea  that 
I had  always  been  gulled  and  kept  waiting,  or  treated  with  inci- 
vility, for  hours  before  I obtained  an  interview ; and  as  I did  not 
wish  to  have  any  more  ruptures  in  the  palace,  I proposed  Bombay 
should  go  to  make  proper  arrangements  for  my  reception  on  the 
morrow,  as,  anyhow,  at  present  I felt  indisposed.  The  pages 
dreaded  their  master’s  wrath,  departed  for  a while,  and  then  sent 
another  lad  to  tell  me  he  was  sorry  to  hear  I felt  unwell,  but  he 
hoped  I would  come  if  only  for  a minute,  bringing  my  medicines 
with  me,  for  he  himself  felt  pain.  That  this  second  message  was 
a forged  one  I had  no  doubt,  for  the  boys  had  not  been  long 
enough  gone ; still,  I packed  up  my  medicines  and  went,  leaving 
the  onus,  should  any  accident  happen,  upon  the  mischievous  sto- 
ry-bearers. 

As  I anticipated,  on  arrival  at  the  palace  I found  the  king  was 
not  ready  to  receive  me,  and  the  pages  desired  me  to  sit  with  the 
officers  in  waiting  until  he  might  appear.  I found  it  necessary  to 
fly  at  once  into  a rage,  called  the  pages  a set  of  deceiving  young 
blackguards,  turned  upon  my  heel,  and  walked  straight  back 
through  the  courts,  intending  to  leave  the  palace.  Every  body 
was  alarmed ; information  of  my  retreat  at  once  reached  the  king, 
and  he  sent  his  wakungu  to  prevent  my  egress.  These  officers 
passed  me,  as  I was  walking  hurriedly  along  under  my  umbrella, 
in  the  last  court,  and  shut  the  entrance-gate  in  front  of  me.  This 
was  too  much ; so  I stamped,  and,  pointing  my  finger,  swore  in 
every  language  I knew  that  if  they  did  not  open  the  gate  again, 
as  they  had  shut  it  at  once,  and  that,  too,  before  my  face,  I would 
never  leave  the  spot  I stood  upon  alive.  Terror-stricken,  the 
wakungu  fell  on  their  knees  before  me,  doing  as  they  were  bid ; 
and,  to  please  them,  I returned  at  once  and  went  up  to  the  king, 
who,  now  sitting  on  his  throne,  asked  the  officers  how  they  had 
managed  to  entice  me  back ; to  which  they  all  replied  in  a breath, 
n’yanzigging  heartily,  “Oh,  we  were  so  afraid — he  was  so  terrible! 
but  he  turned  at  once  as  soon  as  we  opened  the  gate.”  “How? 
what  gate?  tell  us  all  about  it.”  And  when  the  whole  story  was 
fully  narrated,  the  matter  was  thought  a good  joke.  After  paus- 
ing a little,  I asked  the  king  what  ailed  him,  for  I was  sorry  to 
hear  he  had  been  sick;  but,  instead  of  replying,  he  shook  his 
head,  as  much  as  to  say  I had  put  a very  uncouth  question  to  his 
majesty,  and  ordered  some  men  to  shoot  cows. 

Instead  of  admiring  this  childish  pastime,  which  in  Uganda  is 


Feb.]  PALACE,  UGANDA.  293 

considered  royal  sport,  I rather  looked  disdainful,  until,  apparent- 
ly disappointed  at  my  indifference,  he  asked  what  the  box  I had 
brought  contained.  On  being  told  it  was  the  medicine  he  desired, 
he  asked  me  to  draw  near,  and  sent  his  courtiers  away.  When 
only  the  interpreters  and  one  confidential  officer  were  left  besides 
myself,  he  wished  to  know  if  I could  apply  the  medicine  without 
its  touching  the  afflicted  part.  To  give  him  confidence  in  my 
surgical  skill,  I moved  my  finger,  and  asked  if  he  knew  what 
gave  it  action ; and  on  his  replying  in  the  negative,  I gave  him 
an  anatomical  lecture,  which  so  pleased  him,  he  at  once  consented 
to  be  operated  on,  and  I applied  a blister  to  him  accordingly.  The 
whole  operation  was  rather  ridiculous ; for  the  blister,  after  being 
applied,  had  to  be  rubbed  in  turn  on  the  hands  and  faces  of  both 
Bombay  and  Nasib,  to  show  there  was  no  evil  spirit  in  the  “doc- 
tor.” Now,  thought  I to  myself,  is  the  right  time  for  business, 
for  I had  the  king  all  to  myself,  then  considered  a most  fortunate 
occurrence  in  Uganda,  where  every  man  courts  the  favor  of  a 
word  with  his  king,  and  adores  him  as  a deity,  and  he,  in  turn, 
makes  himself  as  distant  as  he  can,  to  give  greater  effect  to  his 
exalted  position.  The  matter,  however,  was  merely  deferred; 
for  I no  sooner  told  him  my  plans  for  communicating  quickly 
with  Petherick  and  Grant,  than,  after  saying  he  desired  their  com- 
ing even  more  than  myself,  he  promised  to  arrange  every  thing 
on  the  morrow. 

2 Qth.  In  the  morning,  as  agreed,  I called  on  the  king,  and  found 
the  blister  had  drawn  nicely ; so  I let  off  the  water,  which  Bom- 
bay called  the  malady,  and  so  delighted  the  king  amazingly.  A 
basket  of  fruit,  like  Indian  loquots,  was  then  ordered  in,  and  we 
ate  them  together,  holding  a discussion  about  Grant  and  Pethe- 
rick, which  ended  by  the  king  promising  to  send  an  officer  by 
water  to  Kitangule,  and  another,  with  two  of  my  men,  via  Usoga 
and  Kidi,  to  Gani ; but  as  it  was  necessary  my  men  should  go  in 
disguise,  I asked  the  king  to  send  me  four  mbugu  and  two  spears ; 
when,  with  the  liberality  of  a great  king,  he  sent  me  twenty  sheets 
of  the  former,  four  spears,  and  a load  of  sun-dried  fish  strung  on 
a stick  in  shape  of  a shield. 

27 tli.  At  last  something  was  done.  One  Uganda  officer  and 
one  Kidi  guide  were  sent  to  my  hut  by  the  king,  as  agreed  upon 
yesterday,  when  I detached  Mabruki  and  Bilal  from  my  men, 
gave  them  letters  and  maps  addressed  to  Petherick ; and  giving 
the  officers  a load  of  mtende  to. pay  their  hotel  bills  on  the  way, 


294 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


I gave  them,  at  the  same  time,  strict  orders  to  keep  by  the  Nile ; 
then,  having  dismissed  them,  I called  on  the  king  to  make  ar- 
rangements for  Grant,  and  to  complain  that  my  residence  in  Ugan- 
da was  any  thing  but  cheerful,  as  my  hut  was  a mile  from  the 
palace,  in  an  unhealthy  place,  where  he  kept  his  Arab  visitors. 
It  did  not  become  my  dignity  to  live  in  houses  appropriated  to 
persons  in  the  rank  of  servants,  which  I considered  the  ivory - 
merchants  to  be ; and  as  I had  come  only  to  see  him  and  the  high 
officers  of  Uganda,  not  seeking  for  ivory  or  slaves,  I begged  he 
would  change  my  place  of  residence  to  the  west  end,  when  I also 
trusted  his  officers  would  not  be  ashamed  to  visit  me,  as  appeared 
to  be  the  case  at  present.  Silence  being  the  provoking  resort  of 
the  king  when  he  did  not  know  exactly  what  to  say,  he  made  no 
answer  to  my  appeal,  but  instead  he  began  a discourse  on  geog- 
raphy, and  then  desired  me  to  call  upon  his  mother,  N’yamasore, 
at  her  palace  Masorisori,  vulgarly  called  Soli  Soli,  for  she  also  re- 
quired medicine  ; and,  moreover,  I was  cautioned  that  for  the  fu- 
ture the  Uganda  court  etiquette  required  I should  attend  on  the 
king  two  days  in  succession,  and  every  third  day  on  his  mother 
the  queen-dowager,  as  such  were  their  respective  rights. 

Till  now,  owing  to  the  strict  laws  of  the  country,  I had  not  been 
able  to  call  upon  any  body  but  the  king  himself.  I had  not  been 
able  to  send  presents  or  bribes  to  any  one,  nor  had  any  one,  ex- 
cept the  cockaded  pages,  by  the  king’s  order,  visited  me ; neither 
was  any  body  permitted  to  sell  me  provisions,  so  that  my  men 
had  to  feed  themselves  by  taking  any  thing  they  chose  from  cer- 
tain gardens  pointed  out  by  the  king’s  officers,  or  by  seizing  pombe 
or  plantains  which  they  might  find  Waganda  carrying  toward  the 
palace.  This  non-interventive  order  was  part  of  the  royal  policy, 
in  order  that  the  king  might  have  the  full  fleecing  of  his  visitors. 

To  call  upon  the  queen-mother  respectfully,  as  it  was  the  open- 
ing visit,  I took,  besides  the  medicine-chest,  a present  of  eight 
brass  and  copper  wire,  thirty  blue-egg  beads,  one  bundle  of  dimin- 
utive beads,  and  sixteen  cubits  of  chintz,  a small  guard,  and  my 
throne  of  royal  grass.  The  palace  to  be  visited  lay  half  a mile 
beyond  the  king’s,  but  the  high  road  to  it  was  forbidden  me,  as  it 
is  considered  uncourteous  to  pass  the  king’s  gate  without  going- 
in.  So,  after  winding  through  back  gardens,  the  slums  of  Bando- 
waroga,  I struck  upon  the  high  road  close  to  her  majesty’s,  where 
every  thing  looked  like  the  royal  palace  on  a miniature  scale.  A 
large  cleared  space  divided  the  queen’s  residence  from  her  kam- 


Feb.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


295 


raviona’s.  The  outer  inclosures  and  courts  were  fenced  with 
tiger-grass;  and  the  huts,  though  neither  so  numerous  nor  so 
large,  were  constructed  after  the  same  fashion  as  the  king’s. 
Guards  also  kept  the  doors,  on  which  large  bells  were  hung  to 
give  alarm,  and  officers  in  waiting  watched  the  throne-rooms. 
All  the  huts  were  full  of  women,  save  those  kept  as  waiting- 
rooms,  where  drums  and  harmonicons  were  placed  for  amusement. 
On  first  entering,  I was  required  to  sit  in  a waiting-hut  till  my 
arrival  was  announced ; but  that  did  not  take  long,  as  the  queen 
was  prepared  to  receive  me ; and  being  of  a more  affable  disposi- 
tion than  her  son,  she  held  rather  a levee  of  amusement  than  a 
stiff  court  of  show.  I entered  the  throne-hut,  as  the  gate  of  that 
court  was  thrown  open,  with  my  hat  off,  but  umbrella  held  over 
my  head,  and  walked  straight  toward  her  till  ordered  to  sit  upon 
my  bundle  of  grass. 

Her  majesty — fat,  fair,  and  forty-five — was  sitting,  plainly  garb- 
ed in  mbugu,  upon  a carpet  spread  upon  the  ground  within  a cur- 
tain of  mbugu,  her  elbow  resting  on  a pillow  of  the  same  bark 
material ; the  only  ornaments  on  her  person  being  an  abrus  neck- 
lace, and  a piece  of  mbugu  tied  round  her  head,  while  a folding 
looking-glass,  muck  the  worse  for  wear,  stood  open  by  her  side. 
An  iron  rod  like  a spit,  with  a cup  on  the  top,  charged  with  magic 
powder,  and  other  magic  wands,  were  placed  before  the  entrance ; 
and  within  the  room,  four  Mabandwa  sorceresses  or  devil-drivers, 
fantastically  dressed,  as  before  described,  and  a mass  of  other 
women,  formed  the  company.  For  a short  while  we  sat  at  a dis- 
tance, exchanging  inquiring  glances  at  one  another,  when  the 
women  were  dismissed,  and  a band  of  music,  with  a court  full  of 
wakungu,  was  ordered  in  to  change  the  scene.  I also  got  orders 
to  draw  near  and  sit  fronting  her  within  the  hut.  Pombe,  the 
best  in  Uganda,  was  then  drunk  by  the  queen,  and  handed  to  me 
and  to  all  the  high  officers  about  her,  when  she  smoked  her  pipe, 
and  bade  me  smoke  mine.  The  musicians,  dressed  in  long-haired 
Usoga  goatskins,  were  now  ordered  to  strike  up,  which  they  did, 
with  their  bodies  swaying  or  dancing  like  bears  in  a fair.  Differ- 
ent drums  were  then  beat,  and  I was  asked  if  I could  distinguish 
their  different  tones. 

The  queen,  full  of  mirth,  now  suddenly  rose,  leaving  me  sitting, 
while  she  went  to  another  hut,  changed  her  mbugu  for  a deole, 
and  came  back  again  for  us  to  admire  her,  which  was  no  sooner 
done  to  her  heart’s  content  than  a second  time,  by  her  order,  the 


296 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


court  was  cleared,  and,  when  only  three  or  four  confidential  wa- 
kungu were  left,  she  took  up  a small  fagot  of  well-trimmed  sticks, 
and,  selecting  three,  told  me  she  had  three  complaints.  “ This 
stick,”  she  says,  “ represents  my  stomach,  which  gives  me  much 
uneasiness;  this  second  stick  my  liver,  which  causes  shooting 
pains  all  over  my  body ; and  this  third  one  my  heart,  for  I get 
constant  dreams  at  night  about  Sunna,  my  late  husband,  and  they 
are  not  pleasant.”  The  dreams  and  sleeplessness  I told  her  was 
a common  widow’s  complaint,  and  could  only  be  cured  by  her 
majesty  making  up  her  mind  to  marry  a second  time ; but,  be- 
fore I could  advise  for  the  bodily  complaints,  it  would  be  neces- 
sary for  me  to  see  her  tongue,  feel  her  pulse,  and  perhaps,  also, 
her  sides.  Hearing  this,  the  wakungu  said,  “ Oh,  that  can  never 
be  allowed  without  the  sanction  of  the  king;”  but  the  queen,  ris- 
ing in  her  seat,  expressed  her  scorn  at  the  idea  of  taking  advice 
from  a mere  stripling,  and  submitted  herself  for  examination. 

I then  took  out  two  pills,  the  powder  of  which  was  tasted  by 
the  wakungu  to  prove  that  there  was  no  devilry  in  “the  doctor,” 
and  gave  orders  for  them  to  be  eaten  at  night,  restricting  her 
pombe  and  food  until  I saw  her  again.  My  game  was  now  ad- 
vancing, for  I found  through  her  I should  get  the  key  to  an  in- 
fluence that  might  bear  on  the  king,  and  was  much  pleased  to 
hear  her  express  herself  delighted  with  me  for  every  thing  I had 
done  except  stopping  her  grog,  which,  naturally  enough  in  this 
great  pombe-drinking  country,  she  said  would  be  a very  trying 
abstinence. 

The  doctoring  over,  her  majesty  expressed  herself  ready  to  in- 
spect the  honorarium  I had  brought  for  her,  and  the  articles  were 
no  sooner  presented  by  Bombay  and  Nasib,  with  the  usual  for- 
malities of  stroking  to  insure  their  purity,  than  she,  boiling  with 
pleasure,  showed  them  all  to  her  officers,  who  declared,  with  a 
voice  of  most  exquisite  triumph,  that  she  was  indeed  the  most  fa- 
vored of  queens.  Then,  in  excellent  good  taste,  after  saying  that 
nobody  had  ever  given  her  such  treasures,  she  gave  me,  in  return, 
a beautifully -worked  pombe  sucking -pipe,  which  was  acknowl- 
edged by  every  one  to  be  the  greatest  honor  she  could  pay  me. 

Hot  satisfied  with  this,  she  made  me  select,  though  against  my 
desire,  a number  of  sambo,  called  here  gundu,  rings  of  giraffe  hair 
wound  round  with  thin  iron  or  copper  wire,  and  worn  as  anklets; 
and  crowned  all  with  sundry  pots  of  pombe,  a cow,  and  a bundle 
of  dried  fish,  of  the  description  given  in  the  engraving,  called  by 


Feb.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


297 


my  men  Samaki  Kambari.  This  business  over,  she  begged  me 
to  show  her  my  picture-books,  and  was  so  amused  with  them  that 
she  ordered  her  sorceresses  and  all  the  other  women  in  again  to 


inspect  them  with  her.  Then  began  a warm  and  complimentary 
conversation,  which  ended  by  an  inspection  of  my  rings  and  all 
the  contents  of  my  pockets,  as  well  as  of  my  watch,  which  she 
called  Lubari — a term  equivalent  to  a place  of  worship,  the  object 
of  worship  itself,  or  the  iron  horn  or  magic  pan.  Still  she  said  I 
had  not  yet  satisfied  her ; I must  return  again  two  days  hence, 
for  she  liked  me  much  — excessively — she  could  not  say  how 
much ; but  now  the  day  was  gone,  I might  go.  With  this  queer 
kind  of  adieu  she  rose  and  walked  away,  leaving  me  with  my 
servants  to  carry  the  royal  present  home. 

28th.  My  whole  thoughts  were  now  occupied  in  devising  some 
scheme  to  obtain  a hut  in  the  palace,  not  only  the  better  to  main- 
tain my  dignity,  and  so  gain  superior  influence  in  the  court,  but 
also  that  I might  have  a better  insight  into  the  manners  and  cus- 
toms of  these  strange  people.  I was  not  sorry  to  find  the  king- 
attempting  to  draw  me  to  court,  daily  to  sit  in  attendance  on  him, 
as  his  officers  are  obliged  to  do  all  day  long,  in  order  that  he 
might  always  have  a full  court  or  escort  whenever  by  chance  he 
might  emerge  from  his  palace,  for  it  gave  me  an  opening  for  as- 
serting a proper  position. 

Instead,  therefore,  of  going  at  the  call  of  his  pages  this  morn- 
ing, I sent  Bombay  with  some  men  to  say  that,  although  I was  de- 
sirous of  seeing  him  daily,  I could  not  so  expose  myself  to  the 
sun.  In  all  other  countries  I received,  as  my  right,  a palace  to 
live  in  when  I called  on  the  king  of  the  country,  and  unless  he 
gave  one  now  I should  feel  slighted ; moreover,  I should  like  a 
hut  in  the  same  inclosure  as  himself,  when  I could  sit  and  con- 
verse with  him  constantly,  and  teach  him  the  use  of  the  things  I 
had  given  him.  By  Bombay’s  account,  the  king  was  much  struck 


298 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


with  the  force  of  mj  humble  request,  and  replied  that  he  should 
like  to  have  Bana,  meaning  myself,  ever  by  his  side,  but  his  huts 
were  all  full  of  women,  and  therefere  it  could  not  be  managed; 
if,  however,  Bana  would  but  have  patience  for  a while,  a hut 
should  be  built  for  him  in  the  environs,  which  would  be  a mark 
of  distinction  he  had  never  paid  to  any  visitor  before.  Then 
changing  the  subject  by  inspecting  my  men,  he  fell  so  much  in 
love  with  their  little  red  “ fez”  caps,  that  he  sent  off  his  pages  to 
beg  me  for  a specimen,  and,  on  finding  them  sent  by  the  boj^s,  he 
remarked,  with  warm  approbation,  how  generous  I was  in  sup- 
plying his  wishes,  and  then,  turning  to  Bombay,  wished  to  know 
what  sort  of  return -presents  would  please  me  best.  Bombay,  al- 
ready primed,  instantly  said,  “Oh,  Bana,  being  a great  man  in  his 
own  country,  and  not  thirsting  for  gain  in  ivory  or  slaves,  would 
only  accept  such  things  as  a spear,  shield,  or  drum,  which  he 
could  take  to  his  own  country  as  a specimen  of  the  manufactures 
of  Uganda,  and  a pleasing  recollection  of  his  visit  to  the  king.” 

“ Ah  !”  says  Mtesa,  “ if  that  is  all  he  wants,  then  indeed  will  I 
satisfy  him,  for  I will  give  him  the  two  spears  with  which  I took 
all  this  country,  and,  when  engaged  in  so  doing,  pierced  three 
men  with  one  stab. 

“ But,  for  the  present,  is  it  true  what  I have  heard,  that  Bana 
would  like  to  go  out  with  me  shooting?”  “ Oh  yes,  he  is  a most 
wonderful  sportsman — shoots  elephants  and  buffaloes,  and  birds 
on  the  wing.  He  would  like  to  go  out  on  a shooting  excursion 
and  teach  you  the  way.” 

Then  turning  the  subject,  in  the  highest  good-humor  the  king 
made  centurions  of  N’yamgundu  and  Maula,  my  two  wakungu, 
for  their  good  service,  he  said,  in  bringing  him  such  a valuable 
guest.  This  delighted  them  so  much  that,  as  soon  as  they  could, 
they  came  back  to  my  camp,  threw  themselves  at  my  feet,  and 
n’yanzigging  incessantly,  narrated  their  fortunes,  and  begged,  as 
a great  man,  I would  lend  them  some  cows  to  present  to  the  king 
as  an  acknowledgment  for  the  favor  he  had  shown  them.  The 
cows,  I then  told  them,  had  come  from  the  king,  and  could  not  go 
back  again,  for  it  was  not  the  habit  of  white  men  to  part  with 
their  presents;  but  as  I felt  their  promotion  redounded  on  my- 
self, and  was  certainly  the  highest  compliment  their  king  could 
have  paid  me,  I would  give  them  each  a wire  to  make  their  sa- 
laam good. 

This  was  enough ; both  officers  got  drunk,  and,  beating  their 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


299 


drums,  serenaded  the  camp  until  the  evening  set  in,  when,  to  my 
utter  surprise,  an  elderly  Mganda  woman  was  brought  into  camp 
with  the  commander-in-chief’s  metaphorical  compliments,  hoping 
I would  accept  her  “to  carry  my  water;”  with  this  trifling  ad- 
dition, that  in  case  I did  not  think  her  pretty  enough,  he  hoped  I 
would  not  hesitate  to  select  which  I liked  from  ten  others,  of  “all 
colors,  Wahuma  included,  who,  for  that  purpose,  were  then  wait- 
ing in  his  palace. 

Unprepared  for  this  social  addition  in  my  camp,  I must  now 
confess  I felt  in  a fix,  knowing  full  well  that  nothing  so  offends 
as  rejecting  an  offer  at  once,  so  I kept  her  for  the  time  being,  in- 
tending in  the  morning  to  send  her  back  with  a string  of  blue 
beads  on  her  neck ; but  during  the  night  she  relieved  me  of  my 
anxieties  by  running  away,  which  Bombay  said  was  no  wonder, 
for  she  had  obviously  been  seized  as  part  of  some  confiscated  es- 
tate, and  without  doubt  knew  where  to  find  some  of  her  friends. 

To-day,  for  the  first  time  since  I have  been  here,  I received  a 
quantity  of  plantains.  This  was  in  consequence  of  my  complain- 
ing that  the  king’s  orders  to  my  men  to  feed  themselves  at  others’ 
expense  was  virtually  making  them  a pack  of  thieves. 

ls£.  I received  a letter  from  Grant,  dated  10th  of  February,  re- 
porting Baraka’s  departure  for  Unyoro  on  the  80th  of  January, 
escorted  by  Kamrasi’s  men  on  their  return,  and  a large  party  of 
Rumanika’s  bearing  presents  as  a letter  from  their  king,  -while 
Grant  himself  hoped  to  leave  Karague  before  the  end  of  the 
month.  I then  sent  Bombay  to  see  the  queen,  to  ask  after  her 
health,  beg  for  a hut  in  the  palace  inclosures,  and  say  I should 
have  gone  myself,  only  I feared  her  gate  might  be  shut,  and  I 
can  not  go  backward  and  forward  so  far  in  the  sun  without  a 
horse  or  an  elephant  to  ride  upon.  She  begged  I would  come 
next  morning.  A wonderful  report  came  that  the  king  put  two 
tops  of  powTder  into  his  Whitworth  rifle  to  shoot  a cow,  and  the 
bullet  not  only  passed  through  the  cow,  but  through  the  court 
fence,  then  through  the  centre  of  a woman,  and,  after  passing  the 
outer  fence,  flew  whizzing  along  no  one  knew  where. 

2d.  Calling  on  the  queen  early,  she  admitted  me  at  once,  scold- 
ing me  severely  for  not  having  come  or  sent  my  men  to  see  her 
after  she  had  taken  the  pills.  She  said  they  did  her  no  good,  and 
prevailed  on  me  to  give  her  another  prescription.  Then  sending 
her  servant  for  a bag  full  of  drinking-gourds,  she  made  me  select 
six  of  the  best,  and  begged  for  my  watch.  That,  of  course,  I 


300 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


could  not  part  with. ; but  I took  the  opportunity  of  telling  her  I 
did  not  like  my  residence ; it  was  not  only  far  away  from  every 
body,  but  it  was  unworthy  of  my  dignity.  I came  to  Uganda  to 
see  the  king  and  queen,  because  the  Arabs  said  they  were  always 
treated  with  great  respect;  but  now  I could  perceive  those  Arabs 
did  not  know  what  true  respect  means.  Being  poor  men,  they 
thought  much  of  a cow  or  goat  given  gratis,  and  were  content  to 
live  in  any  hovels.  Such,  I must  inform  her,  was  not  my  case. 
I could  neither  sit  in  the  sun  nor  live  in  a poor  man’s  hut.  When 
I rose  to  leave  for  breakfast,  she  requested  me  to  stop,  but  I de- 
clined, and  walked  away.  I saw,  however,  there  was  something 
wrong ; for  Maula,  always  ordered  to  be  in  attendance  when  any 
body  visits,  was  retained  by  her  order  to  answer  why  I would  not 
stay  with  her  longer.  If  I wanted  food  or  pombe,  there  was 
plenty  of  it  in  her  palace,  and  her  cooks  were  the  cleverest  in  the 
world ; she  hoped  I would  return  to  see  her  in  the  morning. 

3d.  Our  cross  purposes  seemed  to  increase;  for,  while  I could 
not  get  a satisfactory  interview,  the  king  sent  for  N’yamgundu  to 
ascertain  why  I never  went  to  see  him.  I had  given  him  good 
guns  and  many  pretty  things  which  he  did  not  know  the  use  of, 
and  yet  I would  not  visit  him  to  explain  their  several  uses. 
N’yamgundu  told  him  I lived  too  far  off,  and  wanted  a palace. 
After  this  I walked  off  to  see  N’yamasore,  taking  my  blankets,  a 
pillow,  and  some  cooking-pots  to  make  a day  of  it,  and  try  to  win 
the  affections  of  the  queen  with  sixteen  cubits  binddra,  three  pints 
pekd,  and  three  pints  mtende  beads,  which,  as  "Waganda  are  all 
fond  of  figurative  language,  I called  a trifle  for  her  servants. 

I was  shown  in  at  once,  and  found  her  majesty  sitting  on  an 
Indian  carpet,  dressed  in  a red  linen  wrapper  with  a gold  border, 
and  a box,  in  shape  of  a lady’s  work-box,  prettily  colored  in  divers 
patterns  with  minute  beads,  by  her  side.  Her  councilors  were  in 
attendance ; and  in  the  yard  a band  of  music,  with  many  minor 
wakungu  squatting  in  a semicircle,  completed  her  levee.  Maula, 
on  my  behalf,  opened  conversation,  in  allusion  to  her  yesterday’s 
question,  by  saying  I had  applied  to  Mtesa  for  a palace,  that  I 
might  be  near  enough  both  their  majesties  to  pay  them  constant 
visits.  She  replied,  in  a good  hearty  manner,  that  indeed  was  a 
very  proper  request,  which  showed  my  good  sense,  and  ought  to 
have  been  complied  with  at  once;  but  Mtesa  was  only  a kijana 
or  stripling,  and  as  she  influenced  all  the  government  of  the  coun- 
try, she  would  have  it  carried  into  effect.  Compliments  were  now 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


301 


passed,  ray  presents  given  and  approved  of;  and  the  queen,  think- 
ing I must  be  hungry,  for  she  wanted  to  eat  herself,  requested  me 
to  refresh  myself  in  another  hut.  I complied,  spread  my  bedding, 
and  ordered  in  my  breakfast ; but,  as  the  hut  was  full  of  men,  I 
suspended  a Scotch  plaid,  and  quite  eclipsed  her  mbugu  curtain. 

Reports  of  this  magnificence  at  once  flew  to  the  queen,  who 
sent  to  know  how  many  more  blankets  I had  in  my  possession, 
and  whether,  if  she  asked  for  one,  she  would  get  it.  She  also  de- 
sired to  see  my  spoons,  fork,  and  pipe — an  English  meerschaum, 
mounted  with  silver ; so,  after  breakfast,  I returned  to  see  her, 
showed  her  the  spoons  and  forks,  and  smoked  my  pipe,  but  told 
her  I had  no  blankets  left  but  what  formed  my  bed.  She  appear- 
ed very  happy  and  very  well,  did  not  say  another  word  about  the 
blankets,  but  ordered  a pipe  for  herself,  and  sat  chatting,  laugh- 
ing, and  smoking  in  concert  with  me. 

I told  her  I had  visited  all  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe,  and 
had  seen  all  colors  of  people,  but  wondered  where  she  got  her 
pipe  from,  for  it  was  much  after  the  Rumish  (Turkish)  fashion, 
with  a long  stick.  Greatly  tickled  at  the  flattery,  she  said,  “We 
hear  men  like  yourself  come  to  Amara  from  the  other  side,  and 
drive  cattle  away.”  “The  Gallas,  or  Abyssinians,  who  are  tall 
and  fair,  like  Rumanika,”  I said,  “ might  do  so,  for  they  live  not 
far  off  on  the  other  side  of  Amara,  but  we  never  fight  for  such 
paltry  objects.  If  cows  fall  into  our  hands  when  fighting,  we  al- 
low our  soldiers  to  eat  them,  while  we  take  the  government  of  the 
country  into  our  own  hands.”  She  then  said,  “We  hear  you 
don’t  like  the  Unyamiiezi  route ; we  will  open  the  Ukori  one  for 
you.”  “ Thank  your  majesty,”  said  I,  in  a figurative  kind  of 
speech  to  please  Waganda  ears ; and  turning  the  advantage  of  the 
project  on  her  side,  “You  have  indeed  hit  the  right  nail  on  the 
head.  I do  not  like  the  Unyamuezi  route,  as  you  may  well 
imagine  when  I tell  you  I have  lost  so  much  property  there  by 
mere  robbery  of  the  people  and  their  kings.  The  Waganda  do 
not  see  me  in  a true  light ; but  if  they  have  patience  for  a year  or 
two,  until  the  Ukori  road  is  open,  and  trade  between  our  respect- 
ive countries  shall  commence,  they  will  then  see  the  fruits  of  my 
advent ; so  much  so,  that  every  Mganda  will  say  the  first  Uganda 
year  dates  from  the  arrival  of  the  first  mzungu  (white)  visitor. 
As  one  coffee-seed  sown  brings  forth  fruit  in  plenty,  so  my  com- 
ing here  may  be  considered.”  All  appreciated  this  speech,  say- 
ing, “ The  white  man,  he  even  speaks  beautifully ! beautifully ! 


302 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


beautifully ! beautifully  1”  and,  putting  their  hands  to  their  mouths, 
they  looked  askance  at  me,  nodding  their  admiring  approval. 

The  queen  and  her  ministers  then  plunged  into  pombe  and  be- 
came uproarious,  laughing  with  all  their  might  and  main.  Small 
bugu  cups  were  not  enough  to  keep  up  the  excitement  of  the 
time,  so  a large  wooden  trough  was  placed  before  the  queen  and 
filled  with  liquor.  If  any  was  spilled,  the  wakungu  instantly 
fought  over  it,  dabbing  their  noses  on  the  ground,  or  grabbing  it 
with  their  hands,  that  not  one  atom  of  the  queen’s  favor  might  be 
lost;  for  every  thing  must  be  adored  that  comes  from  royalty, 
whether  by  design  or  accident.  The  queen  put  her  head  to  the 
trough  and  drank  like  a pig  from  it,  and  was  followed  by  her 
ministers.  The  band,  by  order,  then  struck  up  a tune  called  the 
Mildld,  playing  on  a dozen  reeds,  ornamented  with  beads  and 
cow-tips,  and  live  drums,  of  various  tones  and  sizes,  keeping  time. 
The  musicians,  dancing  with  zest,  were  led  by  four  band-masters, 
also  dancing,  but  with  their  backs  turned  to  the  company  to  show 
off  their  long,  shaggy  goatskin  jackets,  sometimes  upright,  at  oth- 
er times  bending  and  on  their  heels,  like  the  hornpipe-dancers  of 
western  countries. 

It  was  a merry  scene,  but  soon  became  tiresome ; when  Bom- 
bay, by  way  of  flattery,  and  wishing  to  see  what  the  queen’s  ward- 
robe embraced,  told  her,  Any  woman,  however  ugly,  would  assume 
a goodly  appearance  if  prettily  dressed ; upon  which  her  gracious 
majesty  immediately  rose,  retired  to  her  toilet-hut,  and  soon  re- 
turned attired  in  a common  check  cloth,  an  abrus  tiara,  a bead 
necklace,  and  with  a folding  looking-glass,  when  she  sat,  as  before, 
and  was  handed  a blown-glass  cup  of  pombe,  with  a cork  floating 
on  the  liquor,  and  a napkin  mbugii  covering  the  top,  by  a naked 
virgin.  For  her  kind  condescension  in  assuming  plain  raiment, 
every  body,  of  course,  n’yanzigged.  Next  she  ordered  her  slave 
girls  to  bring  a large  number  of  sambo  (anklets),  and  begged  me 
to  select  the  best,  for  she  liked  me  much.  In  vain  I tried  to  re- 
fuse them : she  had  given  more  than  enough  for  a keepsake  be- 
fore, and  I was  not  hungry  for  property ; still,  I had  to  choose 
some,  or  I would  give  offense.  She  then  gave  me  a basket  of 
tobacco,  and  a nest  of  hen  eggs  for  her  “ son’s”  breakfast.  When 
this  was  over,  the  Mukonderi,  another  dancing-tune,  with  instru- 
ments something  like  clarionets,  was  ordered ; but  it  had  scarcely 
been  struck  up  before  a drenching  rain,  with  strong  wind,  set  in 
and  spoiled  the  music,  though  not  the  playing — for  none  dared 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


303 


stop  without  an  order;  and  the  queen,  instead  of  taking  pity, 
laughed  most  boisterously  over  the  exercise  of  her  savage  power 
as  the  unfortunate  musicians  were  nearly  beaten  down  by  the  vi- 
olence of  the  weather. 

When  the  rain  ceased,  her  majesty  retired  a second  time  to  her 
toilet-hut,  and  changed  her  dress  for  a puce-colored  wrapper,  when 
I,  ashamed  of  having  robbed  her  of  so  many  sambo,  asked  her  if 
she  would  allow  me  to  present  her  with  a little  English  “ wool” 
to  hang  up  instead  of  her  mbugu  curtain  on  cold  days  like  this. 
Of  course  she  could  not  decline,  and  a large  double  scarlet  blanket 
was  placed  before  her.  “ Oh,  wonder  of  wonders !”  exclaimed  all 
the  spectators,  holding  their  mouths  in  both  hands  at  a time — 
such  a “pattern”  had  never  been  seen  here  before.  It  stretched 
across  the  hut,  was  higher  than  the  men  could  reach — indeed,  it 
was  a perfect  marvel ; and  the  man  must  be  a good  one  who 
brought  such  a treasure  as  this  to  Uddu.  “ And  why  not  say 
Uganda?”  I asked.  “Because  all  this  country  is  called  Uddu. 
Uganda  is  personified  by  Mtesa ; and  no  one  can  say  he  has  seen 
Uganda  until  he  has  been  presented  to  the  king.” 

As  I had  them  all  in  a good  humor  now,  I complained  I did 
not  see  enough  of  the  Waganda;  and  as  every  one  dressed  so  re- 
markably well,  I could  not  discern  the  big  men  from  the  small ; 
could  she  not  issue  some  order  by  which  they  might  call  on  me, 
as  they  did  not  dare  do  so  without  instruction,  and  then  I,  in  turn, 
would  call  on  them?  Hearing  this,  she  introduced  me  to  her 
prime  minister,  chancellor  of  exchequer,  women  - keepers,  hang- 
men, and  cooks,  as  the  first  nobles  in  the  land,  that  I might  rec- 
ognize them  again  if  I met  them  on  the  road.  All  n’yanzigged 
for  this  great  condescension,  and  said  they  were  delighted  with 
their  guest;  then  producing  a strip  of  common  joho  to  compare 
it  with  my  blanket,  they  asked  if  I could  recognize  it.  Of  course, 
said  I,  it  is  made  in  my  country,  of  the  same  material,  only  of 
coarser  quality,  and  every  thing  of  the  same  sort  is  made  in 
Uzungu.  Then,  indeed,  said  the  whole  company,  in  one  voice, 
we  do  like  you,  and  your  cloth  too — but  you  most.  I modestly 
bowed  my  head,  and  said  their  friendship  was  my  chief  desire. 

This  speech  also  created  great  hilarity ; the  queen  and  coun- 
cilors all  became  uproarious.  The  queen  began  to  sing,  and  the 
councilors  to  join  in  chorus;  then  all  sang  and  all  drank,  and 
drank  and  sang,  till,  in  their  heated  excitement,  they  turned  the 
palace  into  a pandemonium;  still  there  was  not  noise  enough,  so 


/ 


304  the  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [1862. 

the  band  and  drums  were  called  again,  and  tomfool — for  Uganda, 
like  the  old  European  monarchies,  always  keeps  a jester — was 
made  to  sing  in  the  gruff,  hoarse,  unnatural  voice  which  he  ever 
affects  to  maintain  his  character,  and  furnished  with  pombe  when 
his  throat  was  dry. 

Now  all  of  a sudden,  as  if  a devil  had  taken  possession  of  the 
company,  the  prime  minister,  with  all  the  courtiers,  jumped  upon 
their  legs,  seized  their  sticks,  for  nobody  can  carry  a spear  when 
visiting,  swore  the  queen  had  lost  her  heart  to  me,  and  running 
into  the  yard,  returned,  charging  and  jabbering  at  the  queen;  re- 
treated and  returned  again,  as  if  they  were  going  to  put  an  end 
to  her  for  the  guilt  of  loving  me,  but  really  to  show  their  devo- 
tion and  true  love  to  her.  The  queen  professed  to  take  this  cere- 
mony with  calm  indifference,  but  her  face  showed  that  she  en- 
joyed it.  I was  now  getting  very  tired  of  sitting  on  my  low 
stool,  and  begged  for  leave  to  depart,  but  N’yamasore  would  not 
hear  of  it;  she  loved  me  a great  deal  too  much  to  let  me  go  away 
at  this  time  of  day,  and  forthwith  ordered  in  more  pombe.  The 
■same  roystering  scene  was  repeated ; cups  were  too  small,  so  the 
trough  was  employed ; and  the  queen  graced  it  by  drinking,  pig- 
fashion,  first,  and  then  handing  it  round  to  the  company. 

Now,  hoping  to  produce  gravity  and  then  to  slip  away,  I asked 
if  my  medicines  had  given  her  any  relief,  that  I might  give  her 
more  to  strengthen  her.  She  said  she  could  not  answer  that 
question  just  yet;  for,  though  the  medicine  had  moved  her  copi- 
ously, as  yet  she  had  seen  no  snake  depart  from  her.  I told  her 
I would  give  her  some  strengthening  medicine  in  the  morning; 
for  the  present,  however,  I would  take  my  leave,  as  the  day  was 
far  gone,  and  the  distance  home  very  great;  but,  though  I dragged 
my  body  away,  my  heart  would  still  remain  here,  for  I loved  her 
much. 

This  announcement  took  all  by  surprise ; they  looked  at  me 
and  then  at  her,  and  looked  again  and  laughed,  while  I rose, 
waved  my  hat,  and  said,  “Kua  heri,  bibi”  (good-by,  madam). 
On  reaching  home  I found  Maribu,  a mkungti,  with  a gang  of 
men  sent  by  Mtesa  to  fetch  Grant  from  Kitangiile  by  water.  He 
would  not  take  any  of  my  men  with  him  to  fetch  the  kit  from 
Karague,  as  Mtesa,  he  said,  had  given  him  orders  to  find  all  the 
means  of  transport;  so  I gave  him  a letter  to  Grant,  and  told  him 
to  look  sharp,  else  Grant  would  have  passed  the  Kitangiile  before 
he  arrived  there.  “Never  mind,”  says  Maribu,  “I  shall  walk  to 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


305 


the  mouth  of  the  Katonga,  boat  it  to  Sese  Island,  where  Mtesa 
keeps  all  his  large  vessels,  and  I shall  be  at  Kitangule  in  a very 
short  time.” 

4th.  I sent  Bombay  off  to  administer  quinine  to  the  queen ; but 
the  king’s  pages,  who  watched  him  making  for  her  gateway,  hur- 
ried up  to  him,  and  turned  him  back  by  force.  He  pleaded  earn- 
estly that  I would  flog  him  if  he  disobeyed  my  orders,  but  they 
would  take  all  the  responsibility — the  king  had  ordered  it ; and 
then  they,  forging  a lie,  bade  him  run  back  as  fast  as  he  could, 
saying  I wanted  to  see  the  king,  but  could  not  till  his  return.  In 
this  way  poor  Bombay  returned  to  me  half  drowned  in  perspira- 
tion. Just  then  another  page  hurried  in  with  orders  to  bring  me 
to  the  palace  at  once,  for  I had  not  been  there  these  four  days : 
and  while  I was  preparing  to  express  the  proper  amount  of  in- 
dignation at  this  unceremonious  message,  the  last  impudent  page 
began  rolling  like  a pig  upon  my  mbugued  or  carpeted  floor,  till 
I stormed  and  swore  I would  turn  him  out  unless  he  chose  to  be- 
have more  respectfully  before  my  majesty,  for  I was  no  peddling 
merchant,  as  he  had  been  accustomed  to  see,  and  would  not  stand 
it ; moreover,  I would  not  leave  my  hut  at  the  summons  of  the 
king,  or  any  body  else,  until  I chose  to  do  so. 

This  expression  of  becoming  wrath  brought  every  one  to  a 
sense  of  his  duty ; and  I then  told  them  all  I was  excessively 
angry  with  Mtesa  for  turning  back  my  messenger;  nobody  had 
ever  dared  do  such  a thing  before,  and  I would  never  forgive  the 
king  until  my  medicines  had  been  given  to  the  queen.  As  for 
my  going  to  the  palace,  it  was  out  of  the  question,  as  I had  re- 
peatedly before  told  the  king,  unless  it  pleased  him  to  give  me  a 
fitting  residence  near  himself.  In  order  now  that  full  weight 
should  be  given  to  my  expressions,  I sent  Bombay  with  the  qui- 
nine to  the  king,  in  company  with  the  boys,  to  give  an  account 
of  all  that  had  happened ; and  farther,  to  say  I felt  exceedingly 
distressed  I could  not  go  to  see  him  constantly  — that  I was 
ashamed  of  my  domicile — the  sun  Was  hot  to  walk  in ; and  when 
I went  to  the  palace,  his  officers  in  waiting  always  kept  me  wait- 
ing like  a servant— a matter  hurtful  to  my  honor  and  dignity. 
It  now  rested  with  himself  to  remove  these  obstacles.  Every 
body  concerned  in  this  matter  left  for  the  palace  but  Maula,  who 
said  he  must  stop  in  camp  to  look  after  Bana.  Bombay  no  sooner 
arrived  in  the  palace,  and  saw  the  king  upon  his  throne,  than 
Mtesa  asked  him  why  he  came.  “By  the  instructions  of  Bana,” 

U 


306  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [1862. 

was  his  reply;  “for  Bana  can  not  walk  in  the  sun;  no  white  man 
of  the  sultan’s  breed  can  do  so.” 

Hearing  this,  the  king  rose  in  a huff,  without  deigning  to  re- 
ply, and  busied  himself  in  another  court.  Bombay,  still  sitting, 
waited  for  hours  till  quite  tired,  when  he  sent  a boy  in  to  say  he 
had  not  delivered  half  my  message ; he  had  brought  medicine  for 
the  queen,  and  as  yet  he  had  no  reply  for  Bana.  Either  with 
haughty  indifference,  or  else  with  injured  pride  at  his  not  being 
able  to  command  me  at  his  pleasure,  the  king  sent  word,  if  medi- 
cine is  brought  for  the  queen,  then  let  it  be  taken  to, her;  and  so 
Bombay  walked  off  to  the  queen’s  palace.  Arrived  there,  he  sent 
in  to  say  he  had  brought  medicine,  and  waited  without  a reply 
till  nightfall,  when,  tired  of  his  charge,  he  gave  the  quinine  into 
N’yamgundu’s  hands  for  delivery,  and  returned  home.  Soon  aft- 
er, however,  N’yamgundu  also  returned  to  say  the  queen  would 
not  take  the  dose  to-day,  but  hoped  I would  administer  it  person- 
ally in  the  morning. 

While  all  this  vexatious  business  had  been  going  on  in  court — 
evidently  dictated  by  extreme  jealousy,  because  I showed,  as  they 
all  thought,  a preference  for  the  queen' — Maula,  more  than  tipsy, 
brought  a mkungu  of  some  standing  at  court  before  me,  contrary 
to  all  law,  for  as  yet  no  Mganda,  save  the  king’s  pages,  had  ever 
dared  enter  even  the  precincts  of  my  camp.  With  a scowling, 
determined,  hang-dog-looking  countenance,  he  walked  impudently 
into  my  hut,  and,  taking  down  the  pombe-suckers  the  queen  had 
given  me,  showed  them  with  many  queer  gesticulations,  intended 
to  insinuate  there  was  something  between  the  queen  and  me. 
Among  his  jokes  w7ere,  that  I must  never  drink  pombe  excepting 
with  these  sticks ; if  I wanted  any  when  I leave  Uganda,  to  show 
my  friends,  she  would  give  me  twenty  more  sticks  of  that  sort  if 
I liked  them ; and,  turning  from  verbal  to  practical  jocularity, 
the  dirty  fellow  took  my  common  sucker  out  of  the  pot,  inserted 
one  of  the  queen’s,  and  sucked  at  it  himself,  when  I snatched  and 
threw  it  away. 

Maiila’s  friend,  who  I imagined  was  a spy,  then  asked  me  whom 
I liked  most,  the  mother  or  the  son ; but,  without  waiting  to  hear 
me,  Maula  hastily  said,  “ The  mother,  the  mother,  of  course ; he 
does  not  care  for  Mtesa,  and  won’t  go  to  see  him.”  The  friend 
coaxingly  responded,  “ Oh  no ; he  likes  Mtesa,  and  will  go  and 
see  him  too;  won’t  you?”  I declined,  however,  to  answer,  from 
fear  of  mistake,  as  both  interpreters  were  away.  Still  the  two 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


307 


went  on  talking  to  themselves,  Mania  swearing  that  I loved  the 
mother  most,  while  the  friend  said  No,  he  loves  the  son,  and  ask- 
ing me  with  anxious  looks,  till  they  found  I was  not  to  be  caught 
by  chaff,  and  then,  both  tired,  walked  away,  the  friend  advising 
me,  next  time  I went  to  court,  to  put  on  an  Arab’s  gown,  as  trow- 
sers  are  indecent  in  the  estimation  of  every  Mganda. 

bih.  Alarmed  at  having  got  involved  in  something  that  looked 
like  court  intrigues,  I called  up  N’yamgundu ; told  him  all  that 
had  happened  yesterday,  both  at  the  two  courts  and  with  Maula 
at  home,  and  begged  him  to  apply  to  the  king  for  a meeting  of 
five  elders,  that  a proper  understanding  might  be  arrived  at ; but, 
instead  of  doing  as  I desired,  he  got  into  a terrible  fright,  calling 
Maula,  and  told  me  if  I pressed  the  matter  in  this  way  men  would 
lose  their  lives.  Meanwhile  the  cunning  blackguard  Maula  beg- 
ged for  pardon ; said  I quite  misunderstood  his  meaning ; all  he 
had  said  was  that  I was,  very  fortunate,  being  in  such  favor  at 
court,  for  the  king  and  queen  both  equally  loved  me. 

N’yamgundu  now  got  orders  to  go  to  Karague  overland  for  Dr. 
K’yengo ; but,  dreading  to  tell  me  of  it,  as  I had  been  so  kind  to 
him,  he  forged  a falsehood,  said  he  had  leave  to  visit  his  home  for 
six  days,  and  begged  for  a wire  to  sacrifice  to  his  church.  I gave 
him  what  he  wanted,  and  away  he  went.  I then  heard  his  serv- 
ants had  received  orders  to  go  overland  for  Grant  and  K’yengo ; 
so  I wrote  another  note  to  Grant,  telling  him  to  come  sharp,  and 
bring  all  the  property  by  boat  that  he  could  carry,  leaving  what 
he  could  not  behind -in  charge  of  Rumanika. 

At  noon,  the  plaguy  little  imps  of  pages  hurried  in  to  order  the 
attendance  of  all  my  men  fully  armed  before  the  king,  as  he  wish- 
ed to  seize  some  refractory  officer.  I declined  this  abuse  of  my 
arms,  and  said  I should  first  go  and  speak  to  the  king  on  the  sub- 
ject myself,  ordering  the  men  on  no  account  to  go  on  such  an  er- 
rand; and  saying  this,  I proceeded  toward  the  palace,  leaving  in- 
structions for  those  men  who  were  not  ready  to  follow.  As  the 
court  messengers,  however,  objected  to  our  going  in  detachments, 
I told  Bombay  to  wait  for  the  rest,  and  hurry  on  to  overtake  me. 
While  lingering  on  the  way,  every  minute  expecting  to  see  my 
men,  the  Wazinza,  who  had  also  received  orders  to  seize  the  same 
officer,  passed  me,  going  to  the  place  of  attack,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  I heard  my  men  firing  in  a direction  exactly  opposite  to  the 
palace.  I now  saw  I had  been  duped,  and  returned  to  my  hut  to 
see  the  issue.  The  boys  had  deceived  us  all.  Bombay,  tricked 


308 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


on  the  plea  of  their  taking  him  by  a short  cut  to  the  palace,  sud- 
denly found  himself,  with  all  the  men,  opposite  the  fenced  gardens 
that  had  to  be  taken — the  establishment  of  the  recusant  officer ; 
and  the  boys,  knowing  how  eager  all  blacks  are  to  loot,  said, 
“ Now,  then,  at  the  houses ; seize  all  you  can,  sparing  nothing — 
men,  women,  or  children,  mbugus  or  cowries,  all  alike ; for  it  is 
the  order  of  the  king and  in  an  instant  my  men  surrounded  the 
place,  fired  their  guns,  and  rushed  upon  the  inmates.  One  was 
speared  forcing  his  way  through  the  fence,  but  the  rest  were  taken 
and  brought  triumphantly  into  my  camp.  It  formed  a strange 
sight  in  the  establishment  of  an  English  gentleman  to  see  my  men 
flushed  with  the  excitement  of  their  spoils,  staggering  under  loads 
of  mbugu,  or  leading  children,  mothers,  goats,  and  dogs  off  in  tri- 
umph to  their  respective  huts.  Bombay  alone,  of  all  my  men, 
obeyed  my  orders,  touching  nothing;  and  when  remonstrated 
with  for  having  led  the  men,  he  said  he  could  not  help  it ; the 
boys  had  deceived  him  in  the  same  way  as  they  had  tricked  me. 

It  was  now  necessary  that  I should  take  some  critical  step  in 
African  diplomacy ; so,  after  ordering  all  the  seizures  to  be  given 
up  to  Maiila  on  behalf  of  the  king,  and  threatening  to  discharge 
any  of  my  men  who  dared  retain  one  item  of  the  property,  I shut 
the  door  of  my  hut  to  do  penance  for  two  days,  giving  orders 
that  nobody  but  my  cook  Ilmas,  not  even  Bombay,  should  come 
near  me ; for  the  king  had  caused  my  men  to  sin — had  disgraced 
their  red  cloth — and  had  inflicted  on  me  a greater  insult  than  I 
could  bear.  I was  ashamed  to  show  my  face.  Just  as  the  door 
was  closed,  other  pages  from  the  king  brought  the  Whitworth 
rifle  to  be  cleaned,  and  demanded  an  admittance;  but  no  one 
dared  approach  me,  and  they  went  on  their  way  again. 

6th.  I still  continued  to  do  penance.  Bombay,  by  my  orders, 
issued  from  within,  prepared  for  a visit  to  the  king,  to  tell  him  all 
that  had  happened  yesterday,  and  also  to  ascertain  if  the  orders 
for  sending  my  men  on  a plundering  mission  had  really  emanated 
from  himself,  when  the  bothering  pages  came  again,  bringing  a 
gun  and  knife  to  be  mended.  My  door  was  found  shut,  so  they 
went  to  Bombay,  asked  him  to  do  it,  and  told  him  the  king  de- 
sired to  know  if  I would  go  shooting  with  him  in  the  morning. 
The  reply  was,  “No;  Bana  is  praying  to-day  that  Mtesa’s  sins 
might  be  forgiven  him  for  having  committed  such  an  injury  to 
him,  sending  his  soldiers  on  a mission  that  did  not  become  them, 
and  without  his  sanction  too.  He  is  very  angry  about  it,  and 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


309 


wishes  to  know  if  it  was  done  by  the  king’s  orders.”  The  boys 
said,  “ Nothing  can  be  done  without  the  king’s  orders.”  After 
farther  discussion,  Bombay  intimated  that  I wished  the  king  to 
send  me  a party  of  five  elderly  officers  to  counsel  with,  and  set  all 
disagreeables  to  rights,  or  I would  not  go  to  the  palace  again ; but 
the  boys  said  there  were  no  elderly  gentlemen  at  court,  only  boys 
such  as  themselves.  Bombay  now  wished  to  go  with  them  before 
the  king,  to  explain  matters  to  him,  and  to  give  him  all  the  red 
cloths  of  my  men,  which  I took  from  them,  because  they  defiled 
their  uniform  when  plundering  women  and  children ; but  the 
boys  said  the  king  was  unapproachable  just  then,  being  engaged 
shooting  cows  before  his  women.  He  then  wished  the  boys  to 
carry  the  cloth ; but  they  declined,  saying  it  was  contrary  to  or- 
ders for  any  body  to  handle  cloth,  and  they  could  not  do  it. 


310 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

PALACE,  UGANDA — Continued. 

Continued  diplomatic  Difficulties. — Negro  Chaffing. — The  King  in  a new  Costume. 
— Adjutant  and  Heron  Shooting  at  Court. — My  Residence  changed. — Scenes  at 
Court. — The  Kamraviona,  or  Commander-in-chief. — Quarrels. — Confidential 
Communications  with  the  King. — Court  Executions  and  Executioners. — Another 
Day  with  the  Queen. 

7th.  The  farce  continued,  and  how  to  manage  these  haughty 
capricious  blacks  puzzled  my  brains  considerably ; but  I felt  that 
if  I did  not  stand  up  now,  no  one  would  ever  be  treated  better 
hereafter.  I sent  Nasib  to  the  queen  to  explain  why  I had  not 
been  to  see  her.  I desired  to  do  so,  because  I admired  her  wis- 
dom ; but  before  I went  I must  first  see  the  king,  to  provide 
against  any  insult  being  offered  to  me,  such  as  befell  Bombay 
when  I sent  him  with  medicine.  Having  dispatched  him,  I re- 
paired again  to  the  palace.  In  the  antechamber  I found  a num- 
ber of  wakungu,  as  usual,  lounging  about  on  the  ground,  smok- 
ing, chatting,  and  drinking  pombe,  while  Wasoga  amused  them 
singing  and  playing  on  lap-harps,  and  little  boys  kept  time  on  the 
harmonicon. 

These  wakungu  are  naturally  patient  attendants,  being  well 
trained  to  the  duty ; for  their  very  lives  depend  upon  their  pre- 
senting themselves  at  court  a certain  number  of  months  every 
year,  no  matter  from  what  distant  part  of  the  country  they  have 
to  come.  If  they  failed,  their  estates  would  be  confiscated,  and 
their  lives  taken  unless  they  could  escape.  I found  a messenger 
who  consented  to  tell  the  king  of  my  desire  to  see  him.  He  re- 
turned to  say  that  the  king  was  sleeping — a palpable  falsehood. 
In  a huff,  I walked  home  to  breakfast,  leaving  my  attendants, 
Maula  and  Uledi,  behind  to  make  explanations.  They  saw  the 
king,  who  simply  asked,  “Where  is  Bana?”  And  on  being  told 
that  I came,  but  went  off  again,  he  said,  as  I was  informed,  “That 
is  a lie,  for  had  he  come  here  to  see  me  he  would  not  have  re- 
turned then  rising,  he  walked  away  and  left  the  men  to  follow 
me. 


Makch.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


311 


I continued  ruminating  on  these  absurd  entanglements,  and  the 
best  way  of  dealing  with  them,  when,  lo ! to  perplex  me  still 
more,  in  ran  a bevy  of  the  royal  pages  to  ask  for  mtende  beads — 
a whole  sack  of  them  ; for  the  king  wished  to  go  with  his  women 
on  a pilgrimage  to  the  ISPyanza.  Thinking  myself  very  lucky  to 
buy  the  king’s  ear  so  cheaply,  I sent  Maula  as  before,  adding  that 
I considered  my  luck  very  bad,  as  nobody  here  knew  my  position 
in  society,  else  they  would  not  treat  me  as  they  did.  My  proper 
sphere  was  the  palace,  and  unless  I got  a hut  there,  I wished  to 
leave  the  country.  My  first  desire  had  always  been  to  see  the 
king ; and  if  he  went  to  the  N’yanza,  I trusted  he  would  allow 
me  to  go  there  also.  The  boys  replied,  “How  can  you  go  with 
his  women?  No  one  ever  is  permitted  to  see  them.”  “Well,” 
said  I,  “ if  I can  not  go  to  the  N’yanza  with  him”  (thinking  only 
of  the  great  lake,  whereas  they  probably  meant  a pond  in  the 
palace  inclosures,  where  Mtesa  constantly  frolics  with  his  women), 
“ I wish  to  go  to  Usoga  and  Amara,  as  far  as  the  Masai ; for  I 
have  no  companions  here  but  crows  and  vultures.”  They  prom- 
ised to  take  the  message,  but  its  delivery  was  quite  another  thing; 
for  no  one  can  speak  at  this  court  till  he  is  spoken  to,  and  a word 
put  in  out  of  season  is  a life  lost. 

On  Maula’s  return,  I was  told  the  king  would  not  believe  so 
generous  a man  as  Bana  could  have  sent  him  so  few  beads ; he 
believed  most  of  my  store  must  have  been  stolen  on  the  road,  and 
would  ask  me  about  that  to-morrow.  He  intimated  that  for  the 
future  I must  fire  a gun  at  the  waiting-hut  whenever  I entered 
the  palace,  so  that  he  might  hear  of  my  arrival,  for  he  had  been 
up  that  morning,  and  would  have  been  glad  to  see  me,  only  the 
boys,  from  fear  of  entering  his  cabinet,  had  forged  a lie,  and  de- 
prived him  of  any  interview  with  me,  which  he  had  long  wished 
to  get.  This  ready  cordiality  was  as  perplexing  as  all  the  rest. 
Could  it  be  possible,  I thought,  I had  been  fighting  with  a phan- 
tom all  this  while,  and  yet  the  king  had  not  been  able  to  perceive 
it?  At  all  events,  now,  as  the  key  to  his  door  had  been  given,  I 
would  make  good  use  of  it  and  watch  the  result.  Meanwhile 
Nasib  returned  from  the  queen-dowager’s  palace  without  having 
seen  her  majesty,  though  he  had  waited  there  patiently  the  whole 
day  long,  for  she  was  engaged  in  festivities,  incessantly  drumming 
and  playing,  in  consequence  of  the  birth  of  twins  (mabassa),  which 
had  just  taken  place  in  her  palace ; but  he  was  advised  to  return 
on  the  morrow. 


312 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


8th.  After  breakfast  I walked  to  the  palace,  thinking  I had 
gained  all  I wanted;  entered,  and  fired  guns,  expecting  an  in- 
stant admittance ; but,  as  usual,  I was  required  to  sit  and  wait ; 
the  king  was  expected  immediately.  All  the  wakungu  talked  in 
whispers,  and  nothing  was  heard  but  the  never-ceasing  harps  and 
harmonicons.  In  a little  while  I fel-t  tired  of  the  monotony,  and 
wished  to  hang  up  a curtain,  that  I might  lie  down  in  privacy  and 
sleep  till  the  king  was  ready ; but  the  officers  in  waiting  forbade 
this,  as  contrary  to  law,  and  left  me  the  only  alternative  of  walk- 
ing up  and  down  the  court  to  kill  time,  spreading  my  umbrella 
against  the  powerful  rays  of  the  sun.  A very  little  of  that  made 
me  fidgety  and  impetuous,  which  the  Waganda  noticed,  and  from 
fear  of  the  consequences,  they  began  to  close  the  gate  to  prevent 
my  walking  away.  I flew  out  on  them,  told  Bombay  to  notice 
the  disrespect,  and  shamed  them  into  opening  it  again.  The  king 
immediately,  on  hearing  of  this,  sent  me  pombe  to  keep  me  quiet; 
but  as  I would  not  touch  it,  saying  I was  sick  at  heart,  another 
page  rushed  out  to  say  the  king  was  ready  to  receive  me ; and, 
opening  a side  gate  leading  into  a small  open  court  without  a 
hut  in  it,  there,  to  be  sure,  was  his  majesty,  sitting  on  an  Arab’s 
donkey-rug,  propped  against  one  page,  and  encompassed  by  four 
others. 

On  confronting  him,  he  motioned  me  to  sit,  which  I did  upon 
my  bundle  of  grass,  and,  finding  it  warm,  asked  leave  to  open  my 
umbrella.  He  was  much  struck  at  the  facility  with  which  I 
could  make  shade,  but  wondered  still  more  at  my  requiring  it. 
I explained  to  him  that  my  skin  was  white  because  I lived  in  a 
colder  country  than  his,  and  therefore  was  much  more  sensitive 
to  the  heat  of  the  sun  than  his  black  skin ; adding,  at  the  same 
time,  if  it  gave  no  offense,  1 would  prefer  sitting  in  the  shade  of 
the  court  fence.  He  had  no  objection,  and  opened  conversation 
by  asking  who  it  was  that  gave  me  such  offense  in  taking  my 
guard  from  me  to  seize  his  wakungu.  The  boy  who  had  pro- 
voked me  was  then  dragged  in,  tied  by  his  neck  and  hands,  when 
the  king  asked  him  by  whose  orders  he  had  acted  in  such  a man- 
ner, knowing  that  I objected  to  it,  and  wished  to  speak  to  him  on 
the  subject  first.  The  poor  boy,  in  a dreadful  fright,  said  he  had 
acted  under  instructions  of  the  kamraviona : there  was  no  harm 
done,  for  Bana’s  men  were  not  hurt.  “ Well,  then,”  said  the 
king,  “if  they  were  not  injured,  and  you  only  did  as  you  were 
ordered,  no  fault  rests  with  you ; but  be  gone  out  of  my  sight, 


Makch.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


313 


for  I can  not  bear  to  see  you ; and  the  kamraviona  shall  be  taught 
a lesson  not  to  meddle  with  my  guests  again  until  I give  him 
authority  to  do  so.” 

I now  hoped,  as  I had  got  the  king  all  by  himself,  and  appar- 
ently in  a good  humor  with  me,  that  I might  give  him  a whole- 
some lesson  on  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  English  nation, 
to  show  how  much  I felt  the  slights  I had  received  since  my  resi- 
dence in  Uganda ; but  he  never  lost  his  dignity  and  fussiness  as 
a Uganda  king.  My  words  must  pass  through  his  mkungu,  as 
well  as  my  interpreter’s,  before  they  reached  him;  and,  as  he  had 
no  patience,  every  thing  was  lost,  till  he  suddenly  asked  Maula, 
pretending  not  to  know,  where  my  hut  was ; why  every  body  said 
I lived  so  far  away;  and  when  told,  he  said,  “ Oh ! that  is  very  far; 
he  must  come  nearer.”  Still  I could  not  say  a word,  his  fussiness 
and  self-importance  overcoming  his  inquisitiveness. 

Rain  now  fell,  and  the  king  retired  by  one  gate,  while  I was 
shown  out  of  another,  until  the  shower  was  over.  As  soon  as  the 
sky  was  clear  again,  we  returned  to  the  little  court,  and  this  time 
became  more  confidential,  as  he  asked  many  questions  about  En- 
gland, such  as,  Whether  the  queen  knew  any  thing  about  medi- 
cines? whether  she  kept  a number  of  women  as  he  did?  and 
what  her  palace  was  like?  which  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  say- 
ing I would  like  to  see  his  ships,  for  I heard  they  were  very 
numerous ; and  also  his  menagerie,  said  to  be  full  of  wonderful 
animals.  He  said  the  vessels  were  far  off,  but  he  would  send  for 
them  ; and  although  he  once  kept  a large  number  of  animals,  he 
killed  them  all  in  practicing  with  his  guns.  The  Whitworth  rifle 
was  then  brought  in  for  me  to  take  to  pieces  and  teach  him  the 
use  of,  and  then  the  chronometer.  He  then  inquired  if  I would 
like  to  go  shooting.  I said,  “Yes,  if  he  would  accompany  me — 
not  otherwise.”  “Hippopotami?”  “Yes;  there  is  great  fun  in 
that,  for  they  knock  the  boats  over  when  they  charge  from  be- 
low.” “Can  you  swim?”  “Yes.”  “So  can  I.  And  would 
you  like  to  shoot  buffalo  ?”  “Yes,  if  you  will  go.”  “At  night, 
then,  I will  send  my  keepers  to  look  out  for  them.  Here  is  a 
leopard-cat,  with  white  behind  its  ears,  and  a ISTdezi  porcupine, 
of  the  short-quilled  kind,  which  my  people  eat  with  great  relish ; 
and  if  you  are  fond  of  animals,  I will  give  you  any  number  of 
specimens,  for  my  keepers  net  and  bring  in  live  animals  of  every 
kind  daily ; for  the  present,  you  can  take  this  basket  of  porcu- 
pines home  for  your  dinner.”  My  men  n’yanzigged;  the  king 


314 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


walked  away,  giving  orders  for  another  officer  to  follow  up  the 
first  who  went  to  Ukori,  and  bring  Petherick  quickly ; and  I 
went  home. 

This  was  to  be  a day  of  varied  success.  When  I arrived  at  my 
hut  I found  a messenger  sent  by  the  queen,  with  a present  of  a 
goat,  called  “ fowls  for  Bana,  my  son,”  and  a load  of  plantains, 
called  potatoes,  waiting  for  me ; so  I gave  the  bearer  a fundo  of 
mtende  beads,  and  told  again  the  reasons  why  I had  not  been 
able  to  call  upon  the  queen,  but  hoped  to  do  so  shortly,  as  the 
king  had  promised  me  a house  near  at  hand.  I doubt,  however, 
whether  one  word  of  my  message  ever  reached  her.  That  she 
wanted  me  at  her  palace  was  evident  by  the  present,  though  she 
was  either  too  proud  or  too  cautious  to  say  so. 

At  night  I overheard  a chat  between  Sangizo,  a Myamuezi,  and 
Ntalo,  a freed  man  of  Zanzibar,  very  characteristic  of  their  way 
of  chaffing.  Sangizo  opened  the  battle  by  saying,  “Ntalo,  who 
are  you?”  A.  “A  mgiiana”  (freed  man).  S.  “A  mguana,  in- 
deed! then  where  is  your  mother?”  A.  “She  died  at  Anguja.” 
S.  “Your  mother  died  at  Anguja!  then  where  is  your  father?” 
A “He  died  at  Anguja  likewise.”  S.  “Well,  that  is  strange; 
and  where  are  your  brothers  and  sisters?”  A.  “They  all  died 
at  Anguja.”  S.  (then  changing  the  word  Anguja  for  Anguza, 
says  to  Ntalo),  “ I think  you  said  your  mother  and  father  both 
died  at  Anguza,  did  you  not?”  A “Yes,  at  Anguza.”  S.  “Then 
you  had  two  mothers  and  two  fathers — one  set  died  at  Anguja, 
and  the  other  set  at  Anguza;  you  are  a humbug;  I don’t  believe 
you;  you  are  no  mguana,  but  a slave  who  has  been  snatched  from 
his  family,  and  does  not  know  where  any  of  his  family  are.  Ah! 
ah ! ah !”  And  all  the  men  of  the  camp  laugh  together  at  the 
wretched  Ntalo’s  defeat;  but  Ntalo  won’t  be  done,  so  retorts  by 
saying,  “Sangizo,  you  may  laugh  at  me  because  I am  an  orphan, 
but  what  are  you  ? you  are  a savage — a mshenzi ; you  come  from 
the  Mashenzi,  and  you  wear  skins,  not  clothes,  as  men  do;  so  hold 
your  impudent  tongue ;”  and  the  camp  pealed  with  merry  bois- 
terous laughter  again. 

9th.  Early  in  the  morning,  and  while  I was  in  bed,  the  king 
sent  his  pages  to  request  me  to  visit  his  royal  mother,  with  some 
specific  for  the  itch,  with  which  her  majesty  was  then  afflicted.  I 
said  I could  not  go  so  far  in  the  sun ; I would  wait  till  I received 
the  promised  palace  near  her.  In  the  mean  while  I prepared  to 
call  on  him.  I observed,  in  fact,  that  I was  an  object  of  jealousy 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


315 


between  the  two  courts,  and  that,  if  I acted  skillfully  and  decided- 
ly, I might  become  master  of  the  situation,  and  secure  my  darling 
object  of  a passage  northward.  The  boys  returned,  bringing  a 
pistol  to  be  cleaned,  and  a message  to  say  it  was  no  use  my  think- 
ing of  calling  on  the  king — that  I must  go  to  the  queen  imme- 
diately, for  she  was  very  ill.  So  far  the  queen  won  the  day,  but 
I did  not  obtain  my  new  residence,  which  I considered  the  first 
step  to  accomplishing  the  greater  object;  I therefore  put  the  iron 
farther  in  the  fire  by  saying  I was  no  man’s  slave,  and  I should 
not  go  ’until  I got  a house  in  the  palace;  Bombay  could  teach  the 
boys  the  way  to  clean  the  pistol.  The  pert  monkeys,  however, 
turned  up  their  noses  at  such  menial  service,  and  Uledi  was  in- 
structed in  their  stead. 

10th.  To  surprise  the  queen,  and  try  another  dodge,  I called  on 
her  with  all  my  dining  things  and  bedding,  to  make  a day  of  it, 
and  sleep  the  night.  She  admitted  me  at  once,  when  I gave  her 
quinine,  on  the  proviso  that  I should  stop  there  all  day  and  night 
to  repeat  the  dose,  and  tell  her  the  reason  why  I did  not  come  be- 
fore. She  affected  great  anger  at  Mtesa  having  interfered  with 
my  servants  when  coming  to  see  her — sympathized  with  me  on 
the  distance  I had  to  travel — ordered  a hut  to  be  cleared  for  me 
ere  night — told  me  to  eat  my  breakfast  in  the  next  court — and, 
rising  abruptly,  walked  away.  At  noon  we  heard  the  king  ap- 
proaching with  his  drums  and  rattle-traps,  but  I still  waited  on 
till  5 P.M.,  when,  on  summons,  I repaired  to  the  throne -hut. 
Here  I heard,  in  an  adjoining  court,  the  boisterous,  explosive 
laughs  of  both  mother  and  son — royal  shouts  loud  enough  to  be 
heard  a mile  off,  and  inform  the  community  that  their  sovereigns 
were  pleased  to  indulge  in  hilarity.  Immediately  afterward,  the 
gate  between  us  being  thrown  open,  the  king,  like  a very  child, 
stood  before  us,  dressed  for  the  first  time,  in  public,  in  what 
Europeans  would  call  clothes.  For  a cap  he  wore  a Muscat  alfia, 
on  his  neck  a silk  Arab  turban,  fastened  with  a ring.  Then  for 
a coat  he  had  an  Indian  kizbow,  and  for  trowsers  a yellow  woolen 
doti ; while  in  his  hand,  in  imitation  of  myself,  he  kept  running 
his  ramrod  backward  and  forward  through  his  fingers.  As  I ad- 
vanced and  doffed  my  hat,  the  king,  smiling,  entered  the  court, 
followed  by  a budding  damsel  dressed  in  red  bindera,  who  car- 
ried the  chair  I had  presented  to  him,  and  two  new  spears. 

He  now  took  his  seat  for  the  first  time  upon  a chair,  for  I had 
told  him,  at  my  last  interview,  that  all  kings  were  expected  to 


316 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


bring  out  some  new  fashion,  or  else  the  world  would  never  make 
progress ; and  I was  directed  to  sit  before  him  on  m y grass  throne. 
Talking,  though  I longed  to  enter  into  conversation,  was  out  of 
the  question ; for  no  one  dared  speak  for  me,  and  I could  not  talk 
myself ; so  we  sat  and  grinned,  till  in  a few  minutes  the  queen, 
full  of  smirks  and  smiles,  joined  us,  and  sat  on  a mbiigu.  1 
offered  the  medicine-chest  as  a seat,  but  she  dared  not  take  it ; in 
fact,  by  the  constitution  of  Uganda,  no  one,  however  high  in  rank, 
not  even  his  mother,  can  sit  before  the  king.  After  sundry  jokes, 
while  we  were  all  bursting  with  laughter  at  the  theatrical  phe- 
nomenon, the  wakungu  who  were  present,  some  twenty  in  num- 
ber, threw  themselves  in  line  upon  their  bellies,  and,  wriggling 
I like  fish,  n’yanzigged,  n’goned,  and  demaned,  and  uttered  other 
wonderful  words  of  rejoicing — as,  for  instance,  “Hai  minange! 
Hai  mkama  wangi!”  (Oh  my  chief!  Oh  my  king!) — while  they 
continued  floundering,  kicking  about  their  legs,  rubbing  their 
faces,  and  putting  their  hands  upon  the  ground,  as  if  the  king 
had  performed  some  act  of  extraordinary  munificence  by  showing 
himself  to  them  in  that  strange  and  new  position,  a thing  quite 
enough  to  date  a new  Uganda  era  from. 

The  king,  without  deigning  to  look  upon  his  groveling  subjects, 
said,  “ Now,  mother,  take  your  medicine for  he  had  been  called 
solemnly  to  witness  the  medical  treatment  she  was  undergoing  at 
my  hands.  When  she  had  swallowed  her  quinine  with  a wry 
face,  two  very  black  virgins  appeared  on  the  stage  holding  up  the 
double  red  blanket  1 had  given  the  queen  ; for  nothing,  however 
trifling,  can  be  kept  secret  from  the  king.  The  whole  court  was 
in  raptures.  The  king  signified  his  approval  by  holding  his 
mouth,  putting  his  head  on  one  side,  and  looking  askance  at  it. 
The  queen  looked  at  me,  then  at  the  blanket  and  her  son  in  turn ; 
while  my  men  hung  down  their  heads,  fearful  lest  they  should  be 
accused  of  looking  at  the  ladies  of  the  court;  and  the  wakungu 
n’yanzigged  again,  as  if  they  could  not  contain  the  gratification 
they  felt  at  the  favor  shown  them.  Nobody  had  ever  brought 
such  wonderful  things  to  Uganda  before,  and  all  loved  Bana. 

Till  now  I had  expected  to  vent  my  wrath  on  both  together 
for  all  past  grievances,  but  this  childish,  merry,  homely  scene — 
the  mother  holding  up  her  pride,  her  son,  before  the  state  officers 
— melted  my  heart  at  once.  I laughed  as  well  as  they  did,  and 
said  it  pleased  me  excessively  to  see  them  both  so  happy  together. 
It  was  well  the  king  had  broken  through  the  old-fashioned  laws 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


317 


of  Uganda  by  sitting  on  an  iron  chair,  and  adopting  European 
dresses,  for  now  he  was  opening  a road  to  cement  his  own  domin- 
ions with  my  country.  I should  know  what  things  to  send  that 
would  please  him.  The  king  listened,  but  without  replying;  and 
said,  at  the  conclusion,  “ It  is  late,  now  let  us  move and  walked 
away,  preserving  famously  the  lion’s  gait.  The  mother  also  van- 
ished, and  I was  led  away  to  a hut  outside,  prepared  for  my  night’s 
residence.  It  was  a small,  newly -built  hut,  just  large  enough  for 
my  bed,  with  a corner  for  one  servant ; so  I turned  all  my  men 
away  save  one,  ate  my  dinner,  and  hoped  to  have  a quiet,  cool 
night  of  it,  when  suddenly  Maula  flounced  in  with  all  his  boys, 
lighting  a fire,  and  they  spread  their  mbugus  for  the  night.  In 
vain  I pleaded  I could  not  stand  the  suffocation  of  so  many  men, 
especially  of  Waganda,  who  eat  raw  plantains;  and  unless  they 
turned  out,  I should  do  so,  to  benefit  by  the  pure  air.  Maula  said 
he  had  the  queen’s  orders  to  sleep  with  Bana,  and  sleep  there  he 
would ; so,  rather  than  kick  him  out,  which  I felt  inclined  to  do, 
I smoked  my  pipe  and  drank  pombe  all  night,  turning  the  people 
out  and  myself  in,  in  the  morning,  to  prepare  for  a small  house- 
fight  with  the  queen. 

11th.  Early  in  the  morning,  as  I expected,  she  demanded  my 
immediate  attendance;  and  so  the  little  diplomatic  affair  I had 
anticipated  came  on.  I begin  the  game  by  intimating  that  I am 
in  bed,  and  have  not  breakfasted.  So  at  10  A.M.  another  mes- 
senger arrives,  to  say  her  majesty  is  much  surprised  at  my  not 
coming.  What  can  such  conduct  mean,  when  she  arranged  every 
thing  so  nicely  for  me  after  my  own  desire,  that  she  might  drink 
her  medicine  properly  ? Still  I am  not  up ; but  nobody  will  let 
me  rest  from  fear  of  the  queen ; so,  to  while  away  the  time,  I 
order  Bombay  to  call  upon  her,  give  the  quinine,  and  tell  her  all 
that  has  happened;  at  which  she  flies  into  a towering  rage,  says 
she  will  never  touch  medicine  administered  by  any  other  hands 
but  mine,  and  will  not  believe  in  one  word  Bombay  says,  either 
about  Maula  or  the  hut;  for  Maula,  whose  duty  necessarily  obliged 
him  to  take  my  servants  before  her  majesty,  had  primed  her  with 
a lot  of  falsehoods  on  the  subject;  and  she  had  a fondness  for 
Maula,  because  he  was  a clever  humbug  and  exceeding  rogue ; 
and  sent  Bombay  back  to  fetch  me,  for  nobody  had  ever  dared 
disobey  her  mandates  before. 

It  had  now  turned  noon,  and  being  ready  for  the  visit,  I went 
to  see  the  queen.  Determined  to  have  her  turn,  she  kept  me 


318 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


waiting  for  a long  time  before  sbe  would  show  herself;  and  at 
last,  when  she  came,  she  flounced  up  to  her  curtain,  lay  down  in 
a huff,  and  vented  her  wrath,  holding  her  head  very  high,  and 
wishing  to  know  how  I could  expect  officers,  with  large  establish- 
ments, to  be  turned  out  of  their  homes  merely  to  give  me  room 
for  one  night ; I ought  to  have  been  content  with  my  fare ; it  was 
no  fault  of  Maula’s.  I tried  to  explain  through  Nasib,  but  she 
called  Nasib  a liar,  and  listened  to  Maiila  who  told  the  lies;  then 
asked  for  her  medicine ; drank  it,  saying  it  was  a small  dose ; and 
walked  off  in  ill  humor  as  she  had  come.  I now  made  up  my 
mind  to  sit  till  3 P.M.,  hoping  to  see  the  queen  again,  while  talk- 
ing with  some  Kidi  officers,  who,  contrary  to  the  general  law  of 
the  country,  indulged  me  with  some  discourses  on  geography, 
from  which  I gathered,  though  their  stories  were  rather  confused, 
that  beyond  the  Asua  River,  in  the  Galla  country,  there  was  an- 
other lake  which  was  navigated  by  the  inhabitants  in  very  large 
vessels ; and  somewhere  in  the  same  neighborhood  there  was  an 
exceedingly  high  mountain,  covered  with  yellow  dust,  which  the 
natives  collected,  etc.,  etc. 

Time  was  drawing  on,  and  as  the  queen  would  not  appear  of 
her  own  accord,  I sent  to  request  a friendly  conversation  with  her 
before  I left,  endeavoring,  as  well  as  I could,  to  persuade  her  that 
the  want  of  cordiality  between  us  was  owing  to  the  mistakes  of 
interpreters,  who  had  not  conveyed  to  her  my  profound  sentiments 
of  devotion.  This  brought  her  gracious  corpulence  out  all  smirks 
and  smiles,  preceded  by  a basket  of  sweet  potatoes  for  “ Bana,  my 
son.”  I began  conversation  with  a speech  of  courtesy,  explain- 
ing how  I had  left  my  brother  Grant  and  my  great  friend  Ruma- 
nika  at  Karague,  hastening,  in  compliance  with  the  invitation  of 
the  king,  to  visit  him  and  herself,  with  the  full  hope  of  making 
friends  in  Uganda ; but  now  I had  come,  I was  greatly  disappoint- 
ed; for  I neither  saw  half  enough  of  their  majesties,  nor  did  any 
of  their  officers  ever  call  upon  me  to  converse  and  pass'  away  the 
dreary  hours.  All  seemed  highly  pleased,  and  complimented  my 
speech  ; while  the  queen,  turning  to  her  officers,  said,  “ If  that  is 
the  case,  I will  send  these  men  to  you ;”  whereupon  the  officers, 
highly  delighted  at  the  prospect  of  coming  to  see  me,  and  its  con- 
sequence, a present,  n’yanzigged  until  I thought  their  hands  would 
drop  off.  Then  her  majesty,  to  my  thorough  annoyance,  and  be- 
fore I had  finished  half  I had  to  say,  rose  from  her  seat,  and,  show- 
ing her  broad  stern  to  the  company,  walked  straight  away.  The 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


319 


officers  then  drew  near  me,  and  begged  I would  sleep  there  an- 
other night ; but  as  they  had  nothing  better  to  offer  than  the  hut 
of  last  night,  I declined,  and  went  my  way,  begging  them  to  call 
and  make  friends  with  me. 

12th.  Immediately  after  breakfast  the  king  sent  his  pages  in  a 
great  hurry  to  say  he  was  waiting  on  the  hill  for  me,  and  begged 
I would  bring  all  my  guns  immediately.  I prepared,  thinking, 
naturally  enough,  that  some  buffaloes  had  been  marked  down;  for 
the  boys,  as  usual,  were  perfectly  ignorant  of  his  designs.  To  my 
surprise,  however,  when  I mounted  the  hill  half  way  to  the  pal- 
ace, I found  the  king  standing,  dressed  in  a rich  filigreed  waist- 
coat, trimmed  with  gold  embroidery,  tweedling  the  loading-rod  in 
his  finger,  and  an  alfia  cap  on  his  head,  while  his  pages  held  his 
chair  and  guns,  and  a number  of  officers,  with  dogs  and  goats  for 
offerings,  squatting  before  him. 

When  I arrived,  hat  in  hand,  he  smiled,  examined  my  fire- 
arms, and  proceeded  for  sport,  leading  the  way  to  a high  tree,  on 
which  some  adjutant  birds  were  nesting,  and  numerous  vultures 
resting.  This  was  the  sport;  Bana  must  shoot  a nundo  (adju- 
tant) for  the  king’s  gratification.  I begged  him  to  take  a shot 
himself,  as  I really  could  not  demean  myself  by  firing  at  birds 
sitting  on  a tree ; but  it  was  all  of  no  use ; no  one  could  shoot  as 
I could,  and  they  must  be  shot.  I proposed  frightening  them 
out  with  stones,  but  no  stone  could  reach  so  high  ; so,  to  cut  the 
matter  short,  I killed  an  adjutant  on  the  nest,  and,  as  the  vultures 
flew  away,  brought  one  down  on  the  wing,  which  fell  in  a garden 
inclosure. 

The  Waganda  were  for  a minute  all  spell-bound  with  astonish- 
ment, when  the  king  jumped  frantically  in  the  air,  clapping  his 
hands  above  his  head,  and  singing  out,  “ Woh,  woh,  woh ! what 
wonders ! Oh,  Bana,  Bana ! what  miracles  he  performs !”  and 
all  the  wakungu  followed  in  chorus.  “How  load,  Bana — load, 
and  let  us  see  you  do  it,”  cried  the  excited  king;  but,  before  I 
was  half  loaded,  he  said,  “Come  along,  come  along,  and  let  us  see 
the  bird.”  Then  directing  the  officers  which  way  to  go — for,  by 
the  etiquette  of  the  court  of  Uganda,  every  one  must  precede  the 
king — he  sent  them  through  a court  where  his  women,  afraid  of 
the  gun,  had  been  concealed.  Here  the  rush  onward  was  stopped 
by  newly-made  fences,  but  the  king  roared  to  the  officers  to 
knock  them  down.  This  was  no  sooner  said  than  done  by  the 
attendants  in  a body  shoving  on  and  trampling  them  under,  as 


320 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


an  elephant  would  crush  small  trees  to  keep  his  course.  So  push- 
ing, floundering  through  plantain  and  shrub,  pell-mell  one  upon 
the  other,  that  the  king’s  pace  might  not  be  checked,  or  any  one 
come  in  for  a royal  kick  or  blow,  they  came  upon  the  prostrate 
bird.  “Woh,  woh,  woh!”  cried  the  king  again,  “there  he  is, 
sure  enough;  come  here,  women — come  and  look  what  wonders!” 
And  all  the  women,  in  the  highest  excitement,  “ woh-wohed”  as 
loud  as  any  of  the  men.  But  that  was  not  enough.  “ Come  along, 
Bana,”  said  the  king,  “we  must  have  some  more  sport;”  and, 
saying  this,  he  directed  the  way  toward  the  queen’s  palace,  the 
attendants  leading,  followed  by  the  pages,  then  the  king,  next  my- 
self— for  I never  would  walk  before  him — and  finally  the  women, 
some  forty  or  fifty,  who  constantly  attended  him. 

To  make  the  most  of  the  king’s  good-humor,  while  I wanted  to 
screen  myself  from  the  blazing  sun,  I asked  him  if  he  would  like 
to  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  an  umbrella;  and  before  he  had  time  to 
answer,  held  mine  over  him  as  we  walked  side  by  side.  The  wa- 
kungu  were  astonished,  and  the  women  prattled  in  great  delight; 
while  the  king,  hardly  able  to  control  himself,  sidled  and  spoke 
to  his  flatterers  as  if  he  were  doubly  created  monarch  of  all  he 
surveyed.  He  then,  growing  more  familiar,  said,  “Now,  Bana, 
do  tell  me — did  you  not  shoot  that  bird  with  something  more 
than  common  ammunition  ? I am  sure  you  did,  now ; there  was 
magic  in  it.”  And  all  I said  to  the  contrary  would  not  convince 
him.  “But  we  will  see  again.”  “At  buffaloes?”  I said.  “No, 
the  buffaloes  are  too  far  off  now ; we  will  wait  to  go  after  them 
until  I have  given  you  a hut  close  by.”  Presently,  as  some 
herons  were  flying  overhead,  he  said,  “ Now  shoot,  shoot !”  and 
I brought  a couple  down  right  and  left.  He  stared,  and  every 
body  stared,  believing  me  to  be  a magician,  when  the  king  said 
he  would  like  to  have  pictures  of  the  birds  drawn  and  hung  up 
in  the  palace ; “but  let  us  go  and  shoot  some  more,  for  it  is  truly 
wonderful.”  Similar  results  followed,  for  the  herons  were  con- 
tinually whirling  round,  as  they  had  their  nests  upon  a neighbor- 
ing tree;  and  then  the  king  ordered  his  pages  to  carry  all  the 
birds,  save  the  vulture — which,  for  some  reason,  they  did  not 
touch — and  show  them  to  the  queen. 

He  then  gave  the  order  to  move  on,  and  we  all  repaired  to  the 
palace.  Arrived  at  the  usual  throne-room,  he  took  his  seat,  dis- 
missed the  party  of  wives  who  had  been  following  him,  as  well 
as  the  wakungu,  received  pombe  from  his  female  evil-eye  avert- 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


321 


ers,  and  ordered  me,  with  my  men,  to  sit  in  the  sun  facing  him, 
till  I complained  of  the  heat,  and  was  allowed  to  sit  by  his  side. 
Kites,  crows,  and  sparrows  were  flying  about  in  all  directions,  and 
as  they  came  within  shot,  nothing  would  satisfy  the  excited  boy- 
king  but  I must  shoot  them,  and  his  pages  take  them  to  the 
queen,  till  my  ammunition  was  totally  expended.  He  then 
wanted  me  to  send  for  more  shot;  and  as  I told  him  he  must 
wait  for  more  until  my  brothers  come,  he  contented  himself  with 
taking  two  or  three  sample  grains,  and  ordering  his  ironsmiths 
to  make  some  like  them. 

Cows  were  now  driven  in  for  me  to  kill  two  with  one  bullet ; 
but  as  the  off  one  jumped  away  when  the  gun  fired,  the  bullet 
passed  through  the  near  one,  then  through  all  the  courts  and 
fences,  and  away  no  one  knew  where.  The  king  was  delighted, 
and  said  he  must  keep  the  rifle  to  look  at  for  the  night.  I now 
asked  permission  to  speak  with  him  on  some  important  matters, 
when  he  sent  his  women  away,  and  listened.  I said  I felt  anx- 
ious about  the  road  on  which  Mabruki  was  traveling,  to  which  I 
added  that  I had  ordered  him  to  tell  Petherick  to  come  here,  or 
else  to  send  property  to  the  value  of  $1000 ; and  I felt  anxious 
because  some  of  the  queen’s  officers  felt  doubtful  about  Waganda 
being  able  to  penetrate  Kidi.  He  said  I need  not  concern  my- 
self on  that  score;  he  was  much  more  anxious  for  the  white  men 
to  come  here  than  even  I was,  and  he  would  not  send  my  men 
into  any  danger;  but  it  was  highly  improper  for  any  of  his  peo- 
ple to  speak  about  such  subjects.  Then,  assembling  the  women 
again,  he  asked  me  to  load  Whitworth  for  him,  when  he  shot  the 
remaining  cow,  holding  the  rifle  in  both  hands  close  to  his  thigh. 
The  feat,  of  course,  brought  forth  great  and  uproarious  congratu- 
lations from  his  women.  The  day  thus  ended,  and  I was  dis- 
missed. 

13 th.  Mabruki  and  Bilal  come  into  camp:  they  returned  last 
night;  but  the  Waganda  escort,  afraid  of  my  obtaining  informa- 
tion of  them  before  the  king  received  it,  kept  them  concealed. 
They  had  been  defeated  in  Hsoga,  two  marches  east  of  Kira,  at 
the  residence  of  Hagozigombi,  Mtesa’s  border  officer,  who  gave 
them  two  bullocks,  but  advised  their  returning  at  once  to  inform 
the  king  that  the  independent  Wasoga  had  been  fighting  with  his 
dependent  Wasoga  subjects  for  some  time,  and  the  battle  would 
not  be  over  for  two  months  or  more,  unless  he  sent  an  army  to 
their  assistance. 


K 


322 


THE  SOURCE  OP  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


I now  sent  Bombay  to  the  king  to  request  an  interview,  as  I 
had  much  of  importance  to  tell  him ; but  he  could  not  be  seen, 
as  he  was  deep  in  the  interior  of  the  palace  enjoying  the  society 
of  his  wives.  The  kamraviona,  however,  was  found  there  wait- 
ing, as  usual,  on  the  mere  chance  of  his  majesty  taking  it  into  his 
head  to  come  out.  He  asked  Bombay  if  it  was  true  the  woman 
he  gave  me  ran  away;  and  when  Bombay  told  him,  he  said,  “Oh, 
he  should  have  chained  her  for  two  or  three  days,  until  she  be- 
came accustomed  to  her  residence ; for  women  often  take  fright 
and  run  away  in  that  way,  believing  strangers  to  be  cannibals.” 
But  Bombay  replied,  “She  was  not  good  enough  for  Bana;  he 
let  her  go  off  like  a dog;  he  wants  a young  and  beautiful  mhuma, 
or  none  at  all.”  “ Ah  ! well,  then,  if  he  is  so  particular,  he  must 
wait  a bit,  for  we  have  none  on  hand.  What  I gave  him  is  the 
sort  of  creature  we  give  all  our  guests.”  A Msoga  was  sent  by 
the  king  to  take  the  dead  adjutant  of  yesterday  out  of  the  nest — 
for  all  Wasoga  are  expert  climbers,  which  is  not  the  case  with  the 
Waganda ; but  the  man  was  attacked  half  way  up  the  tree  by  a 
swarm  of  bees,  and  driven  down  again. 

14 th.  After  all  the  vexatious  haggling  for  a house,  I gained  my 
object  to-day  by  a judicious  piece  of  bribery  which  I had  intend- 
ed to  accomplish  whenever  I could.  I now  succeeded  in  sending 
— for  I could  not,  under  the  jealous  eyes  in  Uganda,  get  it  done 
earlier — a present  of  fifteen  pints  mixed  beads,  twenty  blue  eggs, 
and  five  copper  bracelets,  to  the  commander-in-chief,  as  a mark  of 
friendship.  At  the  same  time  I hinted  that  I should  like  him  to 
use  his  influence  in  obtaining  for  me  a near  and  respectable  resi- 
dence, where  I hoped  he,  as  well  as  all  the  Waganda  nobility, 
would  call  upon  me ; for  my  life  in  Uganda  was  utterly  misera- 
ble, being  shut  up  like  a hermit  by  myself  every  day.  The  re- 
sult was,  that  a number  of  huts  in  a large  plantain  garden  were 
at  once  assigned  to  me,  on  the  face  of  a hill,  immediately  over- 
looking and  close  to  the  main  road.  It  was  considered  the  “West 
End.”  It  had  never  before  been  occupied  by  any  visitors  except- 
ing Wahinda  embassadors;  and  being  near,  and  in  full  view  of 
the  palace,  was  pleasant  and  advantageous,  as  I could  both  hear 
the  constant  music,  and  see  the  throngs  of  people  ever  wending 
their  way  to  and  from  the  royal  abodes.  I lost  no  time  in  mov- 
ing all  my  property,  turning  out  the  original  occupants — in  select- 
ing the  best  hut  for  myself,  giving  the  rest  to  my  three  officers — 
and  ordering  my  men  to  build  barracks  for  themselves,  in  street 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


328 


form,  from  my  but  to  tbe  main  road.  There  was  one  thing  only 
left  to  be  done:  the  sanitary  orders  of  Uganda  required  every 
man  to  build  for  himself  a house  of  Parliament,  such  being  the 
neat  and  cleanly  nature  of  the  Waganda — a pattern  to  all  other 
negro  tribes. 

VSth.  As  nobody  could  obtain  an  interview  with  the  king  yes- 
terday, I went  to  the  palace  to-day,  and  fired  three  shots,  a signal 
which  was  at  once  answered  from  within  by  a double  discharge 
of  a gun  I had  just  lent  him  on  his  returning  my  rifle.  In  a little 
while,  as  soon  as  he  had  time  to  dress,  the  king,  walking  like  a 
lion,  sallied  forth,  leading  his  white  dog,  and  beckoned  me  to  fol- 
low him  to  the  state  hut,  the  court  of  which  was  filled  with  squat- 
ting men  as  usual,  well  dressed,  and  keeping  perfect  order.  lie 
planted  himself  on  his  throne,  and  begged  me  to  sit  by  his  side. 
Then  took  place  the  usual  scene  of  a court  levbe,  as  described  in 
Chapter  X.,  with  the  specialty,  in  this  instance,  that  the  son  of  the 
chief  executioner — one  of  the  highest  officers  of  state — was  led 
off  for  execution,  for  some  omission  or  informality  in  his  n’yan- 
zigs,  or  salutes. 

At  this  levee  sundry  wakungu  of  rank  complained  that  the 
Wanyambo  plundered  their  houses  at  night,  and  rough-handled 
their  women,  without  any  respect  for  their  greatness,  and,  when 
caught,  said  they  were  Bana’s  men.  Bombay,  who  was  present, 
heard  the  complaint,  and  declared  these  were  Suwarora’s  men, 
who  made  use  of  the  proximity  of  my  camp  to  cover  their  own 
transgressions.  Then  Suwarora’s  deputation,  who  were  also  pres- 
ent, cringed  forward,  n’yanzigging  like  Waganda,  and  denied  the 
accusation,  when  the  king  gave  all  warning  that  he  would  find 
out  the  truth  by  placing  guards  on  the  look-out  at  night. 

Till  this  time  the  king  had  not  heard  one  word  about  the  defeat 
of  the  party  sent  for  Petherick.  His  kingdom  might  have  been 
lost,  and  he  would  have  been  no  wiser ; when  the  officer  who  led 
Mabruki  came  forward  and  told  him  all  that  had  happened,  stat- 
ing, in  addition  to  what  I heard  before,  that  they  took  eighty  men 
with  them,  and  went  into  battle  three  times  unsuccessfully.  Dis- 
missing business,  however,  the  king  turned  to  me,  and  said  he 
never  saw  any  thing  so  wonderful  as  my  shooting  in  his  life ; he 
was  sure  it  was  done  by  magic,  as  my  gun  never  missed,  and  he 
wished  I would  instruct  him  in  the  art.  When  I denied  there 
was  any  art  in  shooting  farther  than  holding  the  gun  straight,  he 
shook  his  head,  and,  getting  me  to  load  his  revolving  pistol  for 


324 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


him,  he  fired  all  five  barrels  into  two  cows  before  the  multitude. 
He  then  thought  of  adjutant-shooting  with  ball,  left  the  court  sit- 
ting, desired  me  to  follow  him,  and,  leading  the  way,  went  into 
the  interior  of  the  palace,  where  only  a few  select  officers  were 
permitted  to  follow  us.  The  birds  were  wild,  and  as  nothing  was 
done,  I instructed  him  in  the  way  to  fire  from  his  shoulder,  plac- 
ing the  gun  in  position.  He  was  shy  at  first,  and  all  the  people 
laughed  at  my  handling  royalty  like  a school-boy ; but  he  soon 
took  to  it  very  good-naturedly,  when  I gave  him  my  silk  neck-tie 
and  gold  crest-ring,  explaining  their  value,  which  he  could  not 
comprehend,  and  telling  him  we  gentlemen  prided  ourselves  on 
never  wearing  brass  or  copper. 

He  now  begged  hard  for  shot;  but  I told  him  again  his  only 
chance  of  getting  any  lay  in  opening  the  road  onward ; it  was  on 
this  account,  I said,  I had  come  to  see  him  to-day.  He  answered, 
“I  am  going  to  send  an  army  to  Usoga  to  force  the  way  from 
where  your  men  were  turned  back.”  But  this,  I said,  would  not 
do  for  me,  as  I saw  his  people  traveled  like  geese,  not  knowing 
the  direction  of  Gfani,  or  where  they  were  going  to  when  sent.  I 
proposed  that  if  he  would  call  all  his  traveling  men  of  experience 
together,  I would  explain  matters  to  them  by  a map  I had  brought; 
for  I should  never  be  content  till  I saw  Petherick. 

The  map  was  then  produced.  He  seemed  to  comprehend  it 
immediately,  and  assembled  the  desired  wakungu ; but,  to  my 
mortification,  he  kept  all  the  conversation  to  himself,  Waganda 
fashion ; spoke  a lot  of  nonsense ; and  then  asked  his  men  what 
they  thought  had  better  be  done.  The  sages  replied,  “ Oh,  make 
friends,  and  do  the  matter  gently.”  But  the  king  proudly  raised 
his  head,  laughed  them  to  scorn,  and  said,  “Make  friends  with 
men  who  have  crossed  their  spears  with  us  already ! Nonsense ! 
they  would  only  laugh  at  us;  the  Uganda  spear  alone  shall  do 
it.”  Hearing  this  bravado,  the  kamraviona,  the  pages,  and  the 
elders,  all  rose  to  a man,  with  their  sticks,  and  came  charging  at 
their  king,  swearing  they  would  carry  out  his  wishes  with  their 
lives.  The  meeting  now  broke  up  in  the  usual  unsatisfactory, 
unfinished  manner,  by  the  king  rising  and  walking  away,  while  I 
returned  with  the  kamraviona,  who  begged  for  ten  more  blue 
eggs  in  addition  to  my  present  to  make  a full  necklace,  and  told 
my  men  to  call  upon  him  in  the  morning,  when  he  would  give 
me  any  thing  I wished  to  eat.  Bombay  was  then  ordered  to  de- 
scribe what  sort  of  food  I lived  on  usually,  when,  Mganda  fashion, 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


325 


he  broke  a stick  into  ten  bits,  each  representing  a different  article, 
and  said,  “Bana  eat  mixed  food  always;’’  and  explained  that 
stick  No.  1 represented  beef;  No.  2,  mutton ; No.  3,  fowl ; No.  4, 
eggs ; No.  5,  fish ; No.  6,  potatoes ; No.  7,  plantains ; No.  8,  pom- 
be ; No.  9,  butter ; No.  10,  flour. 

1 6th.  To-day  the  king  was  amusing  himself  among  his  women 
again,  and  not  to  be  seen.  I sent  Bombay  with  ten  blue  eggs  as 
a present  for  the  kamraviona,  intimating  my  desire  to  call  upon 
him.  He  sent  me  a goat  and  ten  fowls’  eggs,  saying  he  was  not 
visible  to  strangers  on  business  to-day.  I inferred  that  he  re- 
quired the  king’s  permission  to  receive  me.  This  double  failure 
was  a more  serious  affair  than  a mere  slight ; for  my  cows  were 
eaten  up,  and  my  men  clamoring  incessantly  for  food ; and  though 
they  might  by  orders  help  themselves  “ku  n’yangania” — by  seiz- 
ing— from  the  Waganda,  it  hurt  my  feelings  so  much  to  witness 
this,  that  I tried  from  the  first  to  dispense  with  it,  telling  the  king 
I had  always  flogged  my  men  for  stealing,  and  now  he  turned 
them  into  a pack  of  thieves.  I urged  that  he  should  either  allow 
me  to  purchase  rations,  or  else  feed  them  from  the  palace  as  Ku- 
manika  did;  but  he  always  turned  a deaf  ear,  or  said  that  what 
Sunna  his  father  had  introduced  it  ill  became  him  to  subvert;  and, 
unless  my  men  helped  themselves,  they  would  die  of  starvation. 

On  the  present  emergency  I resolved  to  call  upon  the  queen. 
On  reaching  the  palace,  I sent  an  officer  in  to  announce  my  ar- 
rival, and  sat  waiting  for  the  reply  fully  half  an  hour,  smoking 
my  pipe,  and  listening  to  her  in  the  adjoining  court,  where  music 
was  playing,  and  her  voice  occasionally  rent  the  air  with  merry 
boisterous  laughing.  ^ 

The  messenger  returned  to  say  no  one  could  approach  her  sanc- 
tuary or  disturb  her  pleasure  at  this  hour;- 1 must  wait  and  bide 
my  time,  as  the  Uganda  officers  do.  "Whew ! Here  was  another 
diplomatic  crisis,  which  had  to  be  dealt  with  in  the  usual  way. 
“ I bide  my  time !”  I said,  rising  in  a towering  passion,  and  thrash- 
ing the  air  with  my  ramrod  walking-stick,  before  all  the  visiting 
wakungu,  “ when  the  queen  has  assured  me  her  door  would  al- 
ways be  open  to  me ! I shall  leave  this  court  at  once,  and  I sol- 
emnly swear  I shall  never  set  foot  in  it  again,  unless  some  apol- 
ogy be  made  for  treating  me  like  a dog.”  Then,  returning  home, 
I tied  up  all  the  presents  her  majesty  had  given  me  in  a bundle, 
and  calling  Maula  and  my  men  together,  told  them  to  take  them 
where  they  came  from,  for  it  ill  became  me  to  keep  tokens  of 


326 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


friendship  when  no  friendship  existed  between  us.  I came  to 
make  friends  with  the  queen,  not  to  trade  or  take  things  from  her 
— and  so  forth.  The  blackguard  Maula,  laughing,  said,  “Bana 
does  not  know  what  he  is  doing ; it  is  a heinous  offense  in  Ugan- 
da sending  presents  back;  nobody  for  their  lives  dare  do  so  to 
the  queen ; her  wrath  would  know  no  bounds.  She  will  say,  1 1 
took  a few  trifles  from  Bana  as  specimens  of  his  country,  but  they 
shall  all  go  back,  and  the  things  the  king  has  received  shall  go 
back  also,  for  we  are  all  of  one  family and  then  won’t  Bana  be 
very  sorry  ? Moreover,  wakungu  will  be  killed  by  dozens,  and 
lamentations  will  reign  throughout  the  court  to  propitiate  the 
devils  who  brought  such  disasters  on  them.”  Bombay,  also  in  a 
fright,  said,  “Pray  don’t  do  so;  you  don’t  know  these  savages  as 
we  do ; there  is  no  knowing  what  will  happen ; it  may  defeat  our 
journey  altogether.  Farther,  we  have  had  no  food  these  four 
days,  because  row  succeeds  row.  If  we  steal,  you  flog  us ; and 
if  we  ask  the  Waganda  for  food,  they  beat  us.  We  don’t  know 
what  to  do.”  I was  imperative,  however,  and  said,  “ Maula  must 
take  back  these  things  in  the  morning,  or  stand  the  consequences.” 
In  fact,  I found  that,  like  the  organ-grinders  in  London,  to  get 
myself  moved  on  I must  make  myself  troublesome. 

17 th.  The  queen’s  presents  were  taken  back  by  Maula  and  Na- 
( sib,  while  I went  to  see  the  kamraviona.  Even  this  gentleman 
kept  me  waiting  for  some  time  to  show  his  own  importance,  and 
Then  admitted  me  into  one  of  his  interior  courts,  where  I found 
him  sitting  on  the  ground  with  several  elders,  while  Wasoga  min- 
strels played  on  their  lap-harps,  and  sang  songs  in  praise  of  their 
king,  and  the  noble  stranger  who  wore  fine  clothes  and  eclipsed 
all  previous  visitors.  At  first,  on  my  approach,  the  haughty 
young  chief,  very  handsome,  and  twenty  years  of  age,  did  not 
raise  his  head ; then  he  begged  me  to  be  seated,  and  even  inquired 
after  my  health  in  a listless,  condescending  kind  of  manner,  as  if 
the  exertion  of  talking  was  too  much  for  his  constitution  or  his 
rank ; but  he  soon  gave  up  this  nonsense  as  I began  to  talk ; in- 
quired, among  other  things,  why  I did  not  see  the  Waganda  at 
my  house,  when  I said  I should  so  much  like  to  make  acquaint- 
ance with  them,  and  begged  to  be  introduced  to  the  company  who 
were  present. 

I was  now  enabled  to  enlarge  the  list  of  topics  on  which  it  is 
prohibited  to  the  Waganda  to  speak  or  act  under  pain  of  death. 
Ho  one  even  dare  ever  talk  about  the  royal  pedigree,  of  the  co'un- 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


327 


tries  that  have  been  conquered,  or  even  of  any  neighboring  coun- 
tries ; no  one  dare  visit  the  king’s  guests,  or  be  visited  by  them, 
without  leave,  else  the  king,  fearing  sharers  in  his  plunder,  would 
say,  What  are  you  plucking  our  goose  for?  Neither  can  any  one 
cast  his  eye  for  a moment  on  the  women  of  the  palace,  whether 
out  walking  or  at  ht>me,  lest  he  should  be  accused  of  amorous  in- 
tentions. Beads  and  brass  wire,  exchanged  for  ivory  or  slaves, 
are  the  only  article  of  foreign  manufacture  any  Mganda  can  hold 
in  his  possession.  Should  any  thing  else  be  seen  in  his  house — 
for  instance,  cloth — his  property  would  be  confiscated  and  his  life 
taken. 

I was  now  introduced  to  the  company  present,  of  whom  one 
Mgema,  an  elderly  gentleman  of  great  dignity,  had  the  honor  to 
carry  Sunna,  the  late  king ; Mpungu,  who  cooked  for  Sunna,  also 
ranks  high  in  court ; then  Usungu  and  Kunza,  executioners,  rank 
very  high,  enjoying  the  greatest  confidence  with  the  king;  and, 
finally,  Jumba  and  Natigo,  who  traced  their  pedigree  to  the  age 
of  the  first  Uganda  king.  As  I took  down  a note  of  their  several 
names,  each  seemed  delighted  at  finding  his  name  written  down 
by  me ; and  Kunza,  the  executioner,  begged  as  a great  favor  that 
I would  plead  to  the  king  to  spare  his  son’s  life,  who,  as  I have 
mentioned,  was  ordered  out  to  execution  on  the  last  levee  day. 
At  first  I thought  it  necessary,  for  the  sake  of  maintaining  my 
dignity,  to  raise  objections,  and  said  it  would  ill  become  one  of 
my  rank  to  make  any  request  that  might  possibly  be  rejected: 
but  as  the  kamraviona  assured  me  there  would  be  no  chance  of 
failure,  and  every  body  else  agreed  with  him,  I said  it  would  give 
me  intense  satisfaction  to  serve  him ; and  the  old  man  squeezed 
my  hand  as  if  overpowered  with  joy. 

This  meeting,  as  might  be  imagined,  was  a very  dull  one,  be- 
cause the  company,  being  tongue-tied  as  regards  every  thing  of 
external  interest,  occupied  themselves  solely  on  matters  of  home 
business,  or  indulged  their  busy  tongues,  Waganda  fashion,  in 
gross  flattery  of  their  “ illustrious  visitor.”  In  imitation  of  the 
king,  the  kamraviona  now  went  from  one  hut  to  another,  request- 
ing us  to  follow,  that  we  might  see  all  his  greatness,  and  then  took 
me  alone  into  a separate  court  to  show  me  his  women,  some  five- 
and-twenty  of  the  ugliest  in  Uganda.  This,  he  added,  was  a 
mark  of  respect  he  had  never  conferred  on  any  person  before; 
but,  fearing  lest  I should  misunderstand  his  meaning,  and  covet 
any  of  them,  he  said,  “ Mind,  they  are  only  to  be  looked  at.” 


828 


THE  SOURCE  OF  TIIE  NILE. 


[1862. 


As  we  retired  to  the  other  visitors,  the  kamraviona,  in  return 
for  some  courteous  remarks  of  mine,  said  all  the  Waganda  were 
immensely  pleased  with  my  having  come  to  visit  them;  and  as 
he  heard  my  country  is  governed  by  a woman,  what  would  I say 
if  he  made  the  Waganda  dethrone  her,  and  create  me  king  in- 
stead. Without  specially  replying,  I showed  him  a map,  mark- 
ing off  the  comparative  sizes  of  British  and  Waganda  possessions, 
and  shut  him  up.  The  great  kamraviona,  or  commander-in-chief, 
with  all  his  wives,  has  no  children,  and  was  eager  to  know  if  my 
skill  could  avail  to  remove  this  cloud  in  his  fortunes.  He  gene- 
rously gave  me  a goat  and  eggs,  telling  my  men  they  might  help 
themselves  to  plantains  from  any  gardens  they  liked  beyond  cer- 
tain limits,  provided  they  did  not  enter  houses  or  take  any  thing 
else.  He  then  said  he  was  tired,  and  walked  away  without  an- 
other word. 

On  returning  home  I found  Nasib  and  Maiila  waiting  for  me, 
with  all  the  articles  that  had  been  returned  to  the  queen  very 
neatly  tied  together.  They  had  seen  her  majesty,  who,  on  re- 
ceiving my  message,  pretended  excessive  anger  with  her  door- 
keeper for  not  announcing  my  arrival  yesterday  — flogged  him 
severely — inspected  all  the  things  returned — folded  them  again 
very  neatly  with  her  own  hands — said  she  felt  much  hurt  at  the 
mistake  which  had  arisen,  and  hoped  I would  forgive  and  forget 
it,  as  her  doors  would  always  be  open  to  me. 

I now  had  a laugh  at  my  friends  Maiila  and  Bombay  for  their 
misgivings  of  yesterday,  telling  them  I knew  more  of  human  na- 
ture than  they  did ; but  they  shook  their  heads,  and  said  it  was 
all  very  well  Bana  having  done  it,  but  if  Arabs  or  any  other  per- 
son had  tried  the  same  trick,  it  would  have  been  another  affair. 
“Just  so,”  said  I;  “but  then,  don’t  you  see,  I know  my  value 
here,  which  makes  all  the  difference  you  speak  of.” 

18iA  While  walking  toward  the  palace  to  pay  the  king  a 
friendly  visit,  I met  two  of  my  men  speared  on  the  head,  and 
streaming  with  blood ; they  had  been  trying  to  help  themselves 
to  plantains  carried  on  the  heads  of  Waganda;  but  the  latter 
proving  too  strong,  my  people  seized  a boy  and  woman  from  their 
party  as  witnesses,  according  to  Uganda  law,  and  ran  away  with 
them,  tied  hand  and  neck  together.  With  this  addition  to  my 
attendance  I first  called  in  at  the  kamraviona’s  for  justice;  but, 
as  he  was  too  proud  to  appear  at  once,  I went  on  to  the  king’s, 
fired  three  shots  as  usual,  and  obtained  admittance  at  once,  when 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


329 


I found  him  standing  in  a yard,  dressed  in  cloth,  with  his  iron 
chair  behind  him,  and  my  double-gun  loaded  with  half  charges 
of  powder  and  a few  grains  of  iron  shot,  looking  eagerly  about 
for  kites  to  fly  over.  His  quick  eye,  however,  readily  detected 
my  wounded  men  and  prisoners,  as  also  some  Wazinza  prisoners 
led  in  by  AVaganda  police,  who  had  been  taken  in  the  act  of  en- 
tering Waganda  houses  and  assailing  their  women.  Thus  my 
men  were  cleared  of  a false  stigma ; and  the  king,  while  praising 
them,  ordered  all  the  Wazinza  to  leave  his  dominions  on  the 
morrow. 

The  other  case  was  easily  settled  by  my  wounded  men  receiv- 
ing orders  to  keep  their  prisoners  till  claimed,  when,  should  any 
people  come  forward,  they  would  be  punished,  otherwise  their 
loss  in  human  stock  would  be  enough.  The  Wanguana  had  done 
quite  right  to  seize  on  the  highway,  else  they  would  have  starved ; 
such  was  the  old  law,  and  such  is  the  present  one.  It  was  no  use 
our  applying  for  a change  of  system.  At  this  stage  of  the  busi- 
ness, the  birds  he  was  watching  having  appeared,  the  king,  in 
a great  state  of  excitement,  said,  “ Shoot  that  kite,”  and  then 
“Shoot  that  other;”  but  the  charges  were  too  light,  and  the 
birds  flew  away,  kicking  with  their  claws  as  if  merely  stung  a 
little. 

While  this  was  going  on,  the  kamraviona,  taking  advantage  of 
my  having  opened  the  door  with  the  gun,  walked  in  to  make  his 
salutations.  A blacksmith  produced  two  very  handsome  spears, 
and  a fisherman  a basket  of  fish,  from  which  two  fish  were  taken 
out  and  given  to  me.  The  king  then  sat  on  his  iron  chair,  and  I 
on  a wooden  box  which  I had  contrived  to  stuff  with  the  royal 
grass  he  gave  me,  and  so  made  a complete  miniature  imitation  of 
his  throne.  The  contrivance  made  him  laugh,  as  much,  I fancy, 
at  his  own  folly  in  not  allowing  me  to  sit  upon  my  portable  iron 
stool,  as  at  my  ingenious  device  for  carrying  out  my  determina- 
tion to  sit  before  him  like  an  Englishman.  I wished  to  be  com- 
municative, and,  giving  him  a purse  of  money,  told  him  the  use 
and  value  of  the  several  coins ; but  he  paid  little  regard  to  them, 
and  soon  put  them  down.  The  small-talk  of  Uganda  had  much 
more  attractions  to  his  mind  than  the  wonders  of  the  outer  world, 
and  he  kept  it  up  with  his  kamraviona  until  rain  fell  and  dis- 
persed the  company. 

19/h.  As  the  queen,  to  avoid  future  difficulties,  desired  my  offi- 
cers to  acquaint  her  beforehand  whenever  I wished  to  call  upon 


330 


THE  SOUECE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


her,  I sent  Nasib  early  to  say  I would  call  in  the  afternoon ; but 
he  had  to  wait  till  the  evening  before  he  could  deliver  the  mes- 
sage, though  she  had  been  drumming  and  playing  all  the  day. 
She  then  complained  against  my  men  for  robbing  her  gardeners 
on  the  highway,  wished  to  know  why  I didn’t  call  upon  her  oft- 
ener,  appointed  the  following  morning  for  an  interview,  and 
begged  I would  bring  her  some  liver  medicines,  as  she  suffered 
from  constant  twinges  in  her  right  side,  sealing  her  “letter”  with 
a present  of  a nest  of  eggs  and  one  fowl. 

While  Nasib  was  away,  I went  to  the  kamraviona  to  treat  him 
as  I had  the  king.  He  appeared  a little  more  affable  to-day,  yet 
still  delighted  in  nothing  but  what  was  frivolous.  My  beard,  for 
instance,  engrossed  the  major  part  of  the  conversation;  all  the 
W aganda  would  come  out  in  future  with,  hairy  faces ; but  when 
I told  them  that,  to  produce  such  a growth,  they  must  wash  their 
faces  with  milk,  and  allow  a cat  to  lick  it  off,  they  turned  up  their 
noses  in  utter  contempt. 

20 tli.  I became  dead  tired  of  living  all  alone,  with  nothing  else 
to  occupy  my  time  save  making  these  notes  every  day  in  my 
office  letter-book,  as  my  store  of  stationery  was  left  at  Karague. 
I had  no  chance  of  seeing  any  visitors,  save  the  tiresome  pages, 
who  asked  me  to  give  or  to  do  something  for  the  king  every  day; 
and  my  prospect  was  cheerless,  as  I had  been  flatly  refused  a visit 
to  Usoga  until  Grant  should  come.  For  want  of  better  amuse- 
ment, I made  a page  of  Lugoi,  a sharp  little  lad,  son  of  the  late 
Beliich,  but  adopted  by  Uledi,  and  treated  him  as  a son,  which  he 
declared  he  wished  to  be,  for  he  liked  me  better  than  Uledi  as  a 
father.  He  said  he  disliked  Uganda,  where  people’s  lives  are 
taken  like  those  of  fowls ; and  wished  to  live  at  the  coast,  the 
only  place  he  ever  heard  of,  where  all  the  Wanguana  come  from 
— great  swells  in  Lugoi’s  estimation.  Now,  with  Lugoi  dressed  in 
a new  white  pillow-case,  with  holes  trimmed  with  black  tape  for 
his  head  and  arms  to  go  through,  a dagger  tied  with  red  bi'ndera 
round  his  waist,  and  a square  of  red  blanket  rolled  on  his  shoulder 
as  a napkin  for  my  gun  to  rest  on,  or  in  place  of  a goatskin  rug 
when  he  wished  to  sit  down,  I walked  off  to  inquire  how  the 
kamraviona  was,  and  took  my  pictures  with  me. 

Lugoi’s  dress,  however,  absorbed  all  their  thoughts,  and  he  was 
made  to  take  it  off  and  put  it  on  again  as  often  as  any  fresh  visitor 
came  to  call.  Hardly  a word  was  said  about  any  thing  else;  even 
the  pictures,  which  generally  are  in  such  demand,  attracted  but 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


831 


little  notice.  I asked  the  kamraviona  to  allow  me  to  draw  his 
pet  dog;  when  the  king’s  sister  Miengo  came  in  and  sat  down, 
laughing  and  joking  with  me  immoderately. 

At  first  there  was  a demur  about  my  drawing  the  dog — whether 
from  fear  of  bewitching  the  animal  or  not,  I can  not  say ; but,  in- 
stead of  producing  the  pet — a beautifully-formed  cream-colored 
dog — a common  black  one  was  brought  in,  which  I tied  in  front 
of  Miengo,  and  then  drew  both  woman  and  dog  together.  After 
this  unlawful  act  was  discovered,  of  drawing  the  king’s  sister 
without  his  consent,  the  whole  company  roared  with  laughter, 
and  pretended  nervous  excitement  lest  I should  book  them  like- 
wise. One  of  my  men,  Sangoro,  did  not  return  to  camp  last  night 
from  foraging;  and  as  my  men  suspect  the  Waganda  must  have 
murdered  him,  I told  the  kamraviona,  requesting  him  to  find  out; 
but  he  coolly  said,  “ Look  for  him  yourselves  two  days  more,  for 
Wan  guana  often  make  friends  with  our  people,  and  so  slip  away 
from  their  masters;  but  as  they  are  also  often  murdered,  pro- 
vided you  can  not  find  him  in  that  time,  we  will  have  the  mganga 
out.” 

21st.  Last  night -I  was  turned  out  of  my  bed  by  a terrible  hue 
and  cry  from  the  quarter  allotted  to  Rozaro  and  his  Wanyambo 
companions;  for  the  Waganda  had  threatened  to  demolish  my 
men,  one  by  one,  for  seizing  their  pombe  and  plantains,  though 
done  according  to  the  orders  of  the  king ; and  now,  finding  the 
Wanyambo  nearest  to  the  road,  they  set  on  them  by  moonlight 
with  spear  and  club,  maltreating  them  severely,  till,  with  re-en- 
forcements, the  Wanyambo  gained  the  ascendency,  seized  two 
spears  and  one  shield  as  a trophy,  and  drove  their  enemies  off. 
In  the  morning  I sent  the  wakungu  off  with  the  trophies  to  the 
king,  again  complaining  that  he  had  turned  my  men  into  a pack 
of  highwaymen,  and,  as  I foresaw,  had  thus  created  enmity  be- 
tween the  Waganda  and  them,  much  to  my  annoyance.  I there- 
fore begged  he  would  institute  some  means  to  prevent  any  far- 
ther occurrence  of  such  scenes,  otherwise  I would  use  fire-arms  in 
self-defense. 

While  these  men  were  on  this  mission,  I went  on  a like  errand 
to  the  queen,  taking  my  page  Lugoi  with  the  liver  medicine.  The 
first  object  of  remark  was  Lugoi,  as  indeed  it  was  every  where; 
for,  as  I walked  along,  crowds  ran  after  the  little  phenomenon. 
Then  came  the  liver  question ; and,  finally,  what  I wanted — her 
complaint  against  my  men  for  robbing  on  the  road,  as  it  gave  me 


332 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


the  opportunity  of  telling  her  the  king  was  doing  what  I had 
been  trying  to  undo  with  my  stick  ever  since  I left  the  coast; 
and  I begged  she  would  use  her  influence  to  correct  these  dis- 
agreeables. She  told  me  for  the  future  to  send  my  men  to  her 
palace  for  food,  and  rob  no  more ; in  the  mean  while,  here  were 
some  plantains  for  them.  She  then  rose  and  walked  away,  leav- 
ing me  extremely  disappointed  that  I could  not  make  some  more 
tangible  arrangement  with  her — such  as,  if  my  men  came  and 
found  the  gate  shut,  what  were  they  to  do  then?  there  were  forty- 
five  of  them ; how  much  would  she  allow  ? etc.,  etc.  But  this 
was  a true  specimen  of  the  method  of  transacting  business  among 
the  royal  family  of  Uganda.  They  give  orders  without  knowing- 
how  they  are  to  be  carried  out,  and  treat  all  practical  arrange- 
ments as  trifling  details  not  worth  attending  to. 

After  this  unsatisfactory  interview  I repaired  to  the  king’s, 
knowing  the  power  of  my  gun  to  obtain  an  interview,  while  doubt- 
ing the  ability  of  the  wakungu  to  gain  an  audience  for  me.  Such 
was  the  case.  These  men  had  been  sitting  all  day  without  see- 
ing the  king,  and  three  shots  opened  his  gate  immediately  to  me. 
He  was  sitting  on  the  iron  chair  in  the  shade  of  the  court,  attend- 
ed by  some  eighty  women,  tweedling  the  loading-rod  in  his  fin- 
gers ; but  as  my  rod  appeared  a better  one  than  his,  they  were 
exchanged.  I then  gave  him  a tortoise-shell  comb  to  comb  his 
hair  straight  with,  as  he  invariably  remarked  on  the  beautiful 
manner  in  which  I dressed  my  hair,  making  me  uncap  to  show 
it  to  his  women,  and  afterward  asked  my  men  to  bring  on  the 
affair  of  last  night.  They  feared,  they  said,  to  speak  on  such  sub- 
jects while  the  women  were  present.  I begged  for  a private 
audience ; still  they  would  not  speak  till  encouraged  and  urged 
beyond  all  patience.  I said,  in  Kisuahili,  “ Kbakka”  (king),  “my 
men  are  afraid  to  tell  you  what  I want  to  say;”  when  Maula,  tak- 
ing advantage  of  my  having  engaged  his  attention,  though  the 
king  did  not  understand  one  word  I said,  said  of  himself,  by  way 
of  currying  favor,  “ I saw  a wonderful  gun  in  Rumanika’s  hands, 
with  six  barrels ; not  a short  one  like  your  fiver”  (meaning  the 
revolving  pistol),  “ but  a long  one,  as  long  as  my  arm.”  “ In- 
deed,” says  the  king;  “we  must  have  that.”  A page  was  then 
sent  for  by  Maula,  who,  giving  him  a bit  of  stick  representing  the 
gun  required,  told  him  to  fetch  it  immediately. 

The  king  then  said  to  me,  “ What  is  powder  made  of?”  I be- 
gan with  sulphur  (kibriti),  intending  to  explain  every  thing;  but 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


333 


the  word  kibriti  was  enough  for  him,  and  a second  stick  was  sent 
for  kibriti,  the  bearer  being  told  to  hurry  for  his  life,  and  fetch  it. 
The  king  now  ordered  some  high  officers  who  were  in  waiting  to 
approach.  They  came,  almost  crouching  to  their  knees,  with  eyes 
averted  from  the  women,  and  n’yanziggecl  for  the  favor  of  being 
called  till  they  streamed  with  perspiration.  Four  young  women, 
virgins,  the  daughters  of  these  high  officers,  nicely  dressed,  were 
shown  in  as  brides,  and  ordered  to  sit  with  the  other  women.  A 
gamekeeper  brought  in  baskets  small  antelopes,  called  mpeo — 
with  straight  horns  resembling  those  of  the  saltiana,  but  with 
coats  like  the  hog-deer  of  India — intended  for  the  royal  kitchen. 
Elderly  gentlemen  led  in  goats  as  commutation  for  offenses,  and 
went  through  the  ceremonies  due  for  the  favor  of  being  relieved 
of  so  much  property.  Ten  cows  were  then  driven  in,  plundered 
from  Unyoro,  and  outside,  the  voices  of  the  brave  army  who 
captured  them  were  heard  n’yanzigging  vehemently.  Lastly, 
some  beautifully-made  shields  were  presented,  and,  because  ex- 
tolled, n’yanzigged  over;  when  the  king  rose  abruptly  and  walked 
straight  away,  leaving  my  fools  of  men  no  better  off  for  food,  or 
reparation  for  their  broken  heads,  than  if  I had  never  gone  there. 

22 d.  I called  on  the  queen  to  inquire  after  her  health,  and  to 
know  how  my  men  were  to  be  fed ; but,  without  giving  me  time 
to  speak,  she  flew  at  me  again  about  my  men  plundering.  The 
old  story  was  repeated ; I had  forty -five  hungry  men,  who  must 
have  food,  and,  unless  either  she  or  the  king  would  make  some 
proper  provision  for  them,  I could  not  help  it.  Again  she  prom- 
ised to  feed  them,  but  she  objected  to  their  bearing  swords,  “for 
of  what  use  are  swords?  If  the  Waganda  don’t  like  the  Wan- 
giiana,  can  swords  prevail  in  our  country?”  And,  saying  this, 
she  walked  away.  I thought  to  myself  that  she  must  have  di- 
rected the  attack  upon  my  camp  last  night,  and  is  angry  at  the 
Wan  guana  swords  driving  her  men  away.  At  3 P.M.  I visited 
the  king,  to  have  a private  chat,  and  state  my  grievances ; but  the 
three  shots  fired  brought  him  out  to  levee,  when  animals  and 
sundry  other  things  were  presented ; and  appointments  of  wa- 
kungu  were  made  for  the  late  gallant  services  of  some  of  the  men 
in  plundering  Unyoro. 

The  old  executioner,  Kunza,  being  present,  I asked  the  king  to 
pardon  his  son.  Surprised,  at  first  Mtesa  said,  “ Can  it  be  possi- 
ble Bana  has  asked  for  this?”  And  when  assured,  in  great  glee 
he  ordered  the  lad’s  release,  amid  shouts  of  laughter  from  every 


334 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


body  but  the  agitated  father,  who  n’yanzigged,  cried,  and  fell  at 
my  feet,  making  a host  of  wonderful  signs  as  a token  of  his  grati- 
tude, for  his  heart  was  too  full  of  emotion  to  give  utterance  to  his 
feelings.  The  king  then,  in  high  good-humor,  said,  “You  have 
called  on  me  many  times  without  our  broaching  the  subject  of 
Usoga,  and  perhaps  you  may  fancy  we  are  not  exerting  ourselves 
in  the  matter;  but  my  army  is  only  now  returning  from  war” 
(meaning  plundering  in  Unyoro),  “and  I am  collecting  another 
one,  which  will  open  Usoga  effectually.”  Before  I could  say 
any  thing,  the  king  started  up  in  his  usual  manner,  inviting  a se- 
lect few  to  follow  him  to  another  court,  when  my  medicine-chest 
was  inspected,  and  I was  asked  to  operate  for  fistula  on  one  of  the 
royal  executioners.  I had  no  opportunity  of  incurring  this  re- 
sponsibility ; for,  while  professing  to  prepare  for  the  operation, 
the  king  went  off  in  a fling. 

When  I got  home  I found  Sangoro,  whom  we  thought  lost  or 
murdered,  quietly  ensconced  in  camp.  He  had  been  foraging  by 
himself  a long  way  from  camp,  in  a neighborhood  where  many 
of  the  king’s  women  are  kept ; and  it  being  forbidden  ground,  he 
was  taken  up  by  the  keepers,  placed  in  the  stocks,  and  fed  until 
to-day,  when  he  extricated  his  legs  by  means  of  his  sword,  and 
ran  away.  My  ever-grumbling  men  mobbed  me  again,  clamor- 
ing for  food,  saying,  as  they  eyed  my  goats,  I lived  at  ease  and 
overlooked  their  wants.  In  vain  I told  them  they  had  fared  more 
abundantly  than  I had  since  we  entered  Uganda;  while  I spared 
my  goats  to  have  a little  flesh  every  day,  they  consumed  or 
squandered  away  the  flesh  of  their  cows  as  rapidly  as  possible, 
selling  the  skins  for  pombe,  which  I seldom  tasted ; they  robbed 
me  as  long  as  I had  cloth  or  beads,  and  now  they  had  all  become 
as  fat  as  hogs  by  lifting  food  off  the  Waganda  lands.  As  I could 
not  quiet  them,  I directed  that,  early  next  morning,  Maula  should 
go  to  the  king  and  Nasib  to  the  queen,  while  I proposed  going 
to  the  kamraviona’s  to  work  them  all  three  about  this  affair  of 
food. 

23c?.  According  to  the  plan  of  last  night,  I called  early  on  the 
kamraviona.  He  promised  me  assistance,  but  with  an  air  which 
seemed  to  say,  What  are  the  sufferings  of  other  men  to  me  ? So 
I went  home  to  breakfast,  doubting  if  any  thing  ever  would  be 
done.  As  Kaggo,  however,  the  second  officer  of  importance,  had 
expressed  a wish  to  see  me,  I sent  Bombay  to  him  for  food,  and 
waited  the  upshot.  Presently  the  king  sent  to  say  he  wished  to 


Maech.J 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


335 


see  me  with  my  compass ; for  the  blackguard  Maula  had  told  him 
I possessed  a wonderful  instrument,  by  looking  at  which  I could 
find  my  way  all  over  the  world.  I went  as  requested,  and  found 
the  king  sitting  outside  the  palace  on  my  chair  dressed  in  cloths, 
with  my  silk  neckerchief  and  crest-ring,  playing  his  flute  in  con- 
cert with  his  brothers,  some  thirty-odd  young  men  and  boys,  one 
half  of  them  manacled,  the  other  half  free,  with  an  officer  watch- 
ing over  them  to  see  that  they  committed  no  intrigues. 

We  then  both  sat  side  by  side  in  the  shade  of  the  court  walls, 
conversed  and  had  music  by  turns ; for  the  king  had  invited  his 
brothers  here  to  please  me,  the  first  step  toward  winning  the  cov- 
eted compass.  My  hair  must  now  be  shown  and  admired,  then 
my  shoes  taken  off  and  inspected,  and  my  browsers  tucked  up  to 
show  that  I am  white  all  over.  Just  at  this  time  Bombay,  who 
had  been  in  great  request,  came  before  us  laden  with  plantains. 
This  was  most  opportune;  for  the  king  asked  what  he  had  been 
about,  and  then  the  true  state  of  the  case  as  regards  my  difficulties 
in  obtaining  food  were,  I fancy,  for  the  first  time  made  known  to 
him.  In  a great  fit  of  indignation  he  said,  “I  once  killed  a hund- 
red wakungu  in  a single  day,  and  now,  if  they  won’t  feed  my 
guests,  I will  kill  a hundred  more ; for  I know  the  physic  for 
bumptiousness.”  Then,  sending  his  brothers  away,  he  asked  me 
to  follow  him  into  the  back  part  of  the  palace,  as  he  loved  me  so 
much  he  must  show  me  every  thing.  We  walked  along  under 
the  umbrella,  first  looking  down  one  street  of  huts,  then  up  an- 
other, and,  finally,  passing  the  sleeping-chamber,  stopped  at  one 
adjoining  it.  “ That  hut,”  said  the  king,  “is  the  one  I sleep  in ; 
no  one  of  my  wives  dare  venture  within  it  unless  I call  her.” 
He  let  me  feel  immediately  that  for  the  distinction  conferred  on 
me  in  showing  me  this  sacred  hut  a return  was  expected.  Could 
I after  that  refuse  him  such  a mere  trifle  as  a compass?  I told 
him  he  might  as  well  put  my  eyes  out  and  ask  me  to  walk  home, 
as  take  away  that  little  instrument,  which  could  be  of  no  use  to 
him,  as  he  could  not  read  or  understand  it.  But  this  only  excited 
his  cupidity ; he  watched  it  twirling  round  and  pointing  to  the 
north,  and  looked  and  begged  again,  until,  tired  of  his  importuni- 
ties, I told  him  I must  wait  until  the  Usoga  road  was  open  before 
I could  part  with  it,  and  then  the  compass  would  be  nothing  to 
what  I would  give  him.  Hearing  this,  he  reared  his  head  proud- 
ly, and,  patting  his  heart,  said,  “ That  is  all  on  my  shoulders ; as 
sure  as  I live  it  shall  be  done ; for  that  country  has  no  king,  and 


336 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


I have  long  been  desirous  of  taking  it.”  I declined,  however,  to 
give  him  the  instrument  on  the  security  of  his  promise,  and  he 
went  to  breakfast. 

I walked  off  to  Usungu  to  see  what  I could  do  for  him  in  his 
misery.  I found  that  he  had  a complication  of  evils  entirely  be- 
yond my  healing  power,  and  among  them  inveterate  forms  of  the 
diseases  which  are  generally  associated  with,  civilization  and  its 
social  evils.  I could  do  nothing  to  cure  him,  but  promised  to  do 
whatever  was  in  my  power  to  alleviate  his  sufferings. 

24 th.  Before  breakfast  I called  on  poor  Usungu,  prescribing 
hot  coffee  to  be  drunk  with  milk  every  morning,  which  astonished 
him  not  a little,  as  the  negroes  only  use  coffee  for  chewing.  He 
gave  my  men  pombe  and  plantains.  On  my  return  I met  a page 
sent  to  invite  me  to  the  palace.  I found  the  king  sitting  with  a 
number  of  women.  He  was  dressed  in  European  clothes,  part  of 
them  being  a pair  of  trowsers  he  begged  for  yesterday,  that  he 
might  appear  like  Bana.  This  was  his  first  appearance  in  trow- 
sers, and  his  whole  attire,  contrasting  strangely  with  his  native 
habiliments,  was  in  his  opinion  very  becoming,  though  to  me  a 
little  ridiculous;  for  the  legs  of  the  trowsers,  as  well  as  the  sleeves 
of  the  waistcoat,  were  much  too  short,  so  that  his  black  feet  and 
hands  stuck  out  at  the  extremities  as  an  organ-player’s  monkey’s 
do,  while  the  cockscomb  on  his  head  prevented'  a fez  cap,  which 
was  part  of  his  special  costume  for  the  occasion,  from  sitting  prop- 
erly. This  display  over,  the  women  were  sent  away,  and  I was 
shown  into  a court,  where  a large  number  of  plantains  were  placed 
in  a line  upon  the  ground  for  my  men  to  take  away,  and  we  were 
promised  the  same  treat  every  day.  From  this  we  proceeded  to 
another  court,  where  we  sat  in  the  shade  together,  when  the  wom- 
en returned  again,  but  were  all  dumb,  because  my  interpreters 
dared  not  for  their  lives  say  any  thing,  even  on  my  account,  to 
the  king’s  women.  Getting  tired,  I took  out  my  sketch-book  and 
drew  Lubuga,  the  pet,  which  amused  the  king  immensely  as  he 
recognized  her  cockscomb. 

Then  twenty  naked  virgins,  the  daughters  of  wakungu,  all 
smeared  and  shining  with  grease,  each  holding  a small  square  of 
mbugu  for  a fig-leaf,  marched  in  a line  before  us,  as  a fresh  ad- 
dition to  the  harem,  while  the  happy  fathers  floundered  n’yan- 
zigging  on  the  ground,  delighted  to  find  their  darlings  appreciated 
by  the  king.  Seeing  this  done  in  such  a quiet,  mild  way  before 
all  my  men,  who  dared  not  lift  their  heads  to  see  it,  made  me 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


337 


burst  into  a roar  of  laughter,  and  the  king,  catching  the  infection 
from  me,  laughed  as  well ; but  the  laughing  did  not  end  there ; 
for  the  pages,  for  once  giving  way  to  nature,  kept  bursting — my 
men  chuckled  in  sudden  gusts — while  even  the  women,  holding 
their  mouths  for  fear  of  detection,  responded — and  we  all  laughed 
together.  Then  a sedate  old  dame  rose  from  the  squatting  mass, 
ordered  the  virgins  to  right-about,  and  marched  them  off,  show- 
ing their  still  more  naked  reverses.  I now  obtained  permission 
for  the  wakungu  to  call  upon  me,  and  I fancied  I only  required 
my  interpreters  to  speak  out  like  men  when  I had  any  thing  to 
say,  to  make  my  residence  in  Uganda  both  amusing  and  instruc- 
tive ; but,  though  the  king,  carried  off  by  the  prevailing  good- 
humor  of  the  scene  we  had  both  witnessed,  supported  me,  I found 
that  he  had  counterordered  what  he  had  said  as  soon  as  I had 
gone,  and,  in  fact,  no  mkungu  ever  dared  come  near  me. 

25 th.  To-day  I visited'  Usungu  again,  and  found  him  better. 
He  gave  pombe  and  plantains  for  my  people,  but  would  not  talk 
to  me,  though  I told  him  he  had  permission  to  call  on  me. 

I have  now  been  for  some  time  within  the  court  precincts,  and 
have  consequently  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  court  cus- 
toms. Among  these,  nearly  every  day  since  I have  changed  my 
residence,  incredible  as  it  may  appear  to  be,  I have  seen  one,  two, 


A Queen  dragged  to  Execution. 


or  three  of  the  wretched  palace  women  led  away  to  execution, 
tied  by  the  hand,  and  dragged  along  by  one  of  the  body-guard, 

Y 


338 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


crying  out,  as  she  went  to  premature  death,  “ Hai  minange !” 
(Oh  my  lord!)  “Kbakka!”  (My  king!)  “Hai  n’yawo!”  (My 
mother !)  at  the  top  of  her  voice,  in  the  utmost  despair  and  lam- 
entation ; and  yet  there  was  not  a soul  who  dared  lift  hand  to 
save  any  of  them,  though  many  might  be  heard  privately  com- 
menting on  their  beauty. 

2 6th.  To-day,  to  amuse  the  king,  I drew  a picture  of  himself 
holding  a levbe,  and  proceeded  to  visit  him.  On  the  way  I found 
the  high  road  thronged  with  cattle  captured  in  Unyoro;  and  on 
arrival  at  the  antechamber,  among,  the  officers  in  waiting,  Masimbi 
(Mr.  Cowries  or  Shells),  the  queen’s  uncle,  and  Congow,  a young 
general,  who  once  led  an  army  into  Unyoro,  past  Kamrasi’s  pal- 
ace. They  said  they  bad  obtained  leave  for  me  to  visit  them, 
and  were  eagerly  looking  out  for  the  happy  event.  At  once,  on 
firing,  I was  admitted  to  the  king’s  favorite  place,  which,  now 
that  the  king  had  a movable  chair  to  sit  upon,  was  the  shade  of 
the  court  screen.  We  had  a chat;  the  picture  was  shown  to  the 
women ; the  king  would  like  to  have  some  more,  and  gave  me 
leave  to  draw  in  the  palace  any  time  I liked.  At  the  same  time 
he  asked  for  my  paint-box,  merely  to  look  at  it.  Though  I re- 
peatedly dunned  him  for  it,  I could  never  get  it  back  from  him 
until  I was  preparing  to  leave  Uganda. 

27th.  After  breakfast  I started  on  a visit  to  Congow;  but, 
finding  he  had  gone  to  the  king  as  usual,  called  at  Masimbi’s,  and 
he  being  absent  also,  I took  advantage  of  my  proximity  to  the 
queen’s  palace  to  call  on  her  majesty.  For  hours  I was  kept 
waiting;  firstly,  because  she  was  at  breakfast;  secondly,  because 
she  was  “putting  on  medicine;”  and,  thirdly,  because  the  sun 
was  too  powerful  for  her  complexion ; when  I became  tired  of 
her  nonsense,  and  said,  “ If  she  does  not  wish  to  see  me,  she  had 
better  say  so  at  once,  else  I shall  walk  away ; for  the  last  time  I 
came  I saw  her  but  for  a minute,  when  she  rudely  turned  her 
back  upon  me,  and  left  me  sitting  by  myself.”  I was  told  not  to 
be  in  a hurry — she  would  see  me  in  the  evening.  This  promise 
might  probably  be  fulfilled  six  blessed  hours  from  the  time  when 
it  was  made ; but  I thought  to  myself,  every  place  in  Uganda  is 
alike  when  there  is  no  company  at  home,  and  so  I resolved  to  sit 
the  time  out,  like  Patience  on  a monument,  hoping  something 
funny  might  turn  up  after  all. 

At  last  her  majesty  stumps  out,  squats  behind  my  red  blanket, 
which  is  converted  into  a permanent  screen,  and  says  hastily,  or 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


339 


rather  testily,  “Can’t  Bana  perceive  the  angry  state  of  the  weath- 
er— clouds  flying  about,  and  the  wind  blowing  half  a gale? 
Whenever  that  is  the  case,  I can  not  venture  out.”  Taking  her 
lie  without  an  answer,  I said,  I had  now  been  fifty  days  or  so  do- 
ing nothing  in  Uganda ; not  one  single  visitor  of  my  own  rank 
ever  came  near  me,  and  I could  not  associate  with  people  far  be- 
low her  condition  and  mine ; in  fact,  all  I had  to  amuse  me  at 
home  now  was  watching  a hen  lay  her  eggs  upon  my  spare  bed. 
Her  majesty  became  genial,  as  she  had  been  before,  and  promised 
to  provide  me  with  suitable  society.  I then  told  her  I had  desired 
my  officers  several  times  to  ask  the  king  how  marriages  were 
conducted  in  this  country,  as  they  appeared  so  different  from 
ours,  but  they  always  said  they  dared  not  put  such  a question  to 
him,  and  now  I hoped  she  would  explain  it  to  me.  To  tell  her 
I could  not  get  any  thing  from  the  king  I knew  would  be  the 
surest  way  of  eliciting  what  I wanted  from  her,  because  of  the 
jealousy  between  the  two  courts;  and  in  this  instance  it  was 
fully  proved,  for  she  brightened  up  at  once,  and,  when  I got  her 
to  understand  something  of  what  I meant  by  a marriage  cere- 
mony, in  high  good-humor  entered  on  a long  explanation,  to  the 
following  effect : 

There  are  no  such  things  as  marriages  in  Uganda;  there  are 
no  ceremonies  attached  to  it.  If  any  mkungu  possessed  of  a 
pretty  daughter  committed  an  offense,  he  might  give  her  to  the 
king  as  a peace-offering;  if  any  neighboring  king  had  a pretty 
daughter,  and  the  King  of  Uganda  wanted  her,  she  might  be  de- 
manded as  a fitting  tribute.  The  wakungu  in  Uganda  are  sup- 
plied with  women  by  the  king,  according  to  their  merits,  from 
seizures  in  battle  abroad,  or  seizures  from  refractory  officers  at 
home.  The  women  are  not  regarded  as  property  according  to  the 
Wanyamuezi  practice,  though  many  exchange  their  daughters; 
and  some  women,  for  misdemeanors,  are  sold  into  slavery,  while 
others  are  flogged,  or  are  degraded  to  do  all  the  menial  services 
of  the  house. 

The  wakungu  then  changed  the  subject  by  asking,  If  I married 
a black  woman,  would  there  be  any  offspring,  and  what  would  be 
their  color?  The  company  now  became  jovial,  when  the  queen 
improved  it  by  making  a significant  gesture,  and  with  roars  of 
laughter  asking  me  if  I would  like  to  be  her  son-in-law,  for  she 
had  some  beautiful  daughters,  either  of  the  Wahuma  or  Waganda 
breed.  Bather  staggered  at  first  by  this  awful  proposal,  I con- 


340 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


suited  Bombay  what  I should  do  with  one  if  I got  her.  He, 
looking  more  to  number  one  than  my  convenience,  said,  “ By  all 
means  accept  the  offer,  for  if  you  don’t  like  her,  we  should,  and  it 
would  be  a good  means  of  getting  her  out  of  this  land  of  death, 
for  all  black  people  love  Zanzibar.”  The  rest  need  not  be  told ; 
as  a matter  of  course,  I had  to  appear  very  much  gratified,  and  as 
the  bowl  went  round,  all  became  uproarious.  I must  wait  a day 
or  two,  however,  that  a proper  selection  might  be  made;  and 
when  the  marriage  came  off,  I was  to  chain  the  fair  one  two  or 
three  days,  until  she  became  used  to  me,  else,  from  mere  fright, 
she  might  run  away. 

To  keep  up  the  spirits  of  the  queen,  though  her  frequent  po- 
tions of  pombe  had  well-nigh  done  enough,  I admired  her  neck- 
ring,  composed  of  copper  wire,  with  a running  inlaid  twist  of 
iron,  and  asked  her  why  she  wore  such  a wreath  of  vine-leaves, 
as  I had  often  seen  on  some  of  the  wakungu.  On  this  she  pro- 
duced a number  of  rings  similar  to  the  one  she  wore,  and  taking- 
off  her  own,  placed  it  round  my  neck.  Then,  pointing  to  her 
wreath,  she  said,  “This  is  the  badge  of  a kidnapper’s  office:  who- 
ever wears  it  catches  little  children.”  I inferred  that  its  posses- 
sion, as  an  insignia  of  royalty,  conferred  on  the  bearer  the  power 
of  seizure,  as  the  great  seal  in  this  country  confers  power  on  pub- 
lic officers. 

The  queen’s  dinner  was  now  announced ; and,  desiring  me  to 
remain  where  I was  for  a short  time,  she  went  to  it.  She  sent 
me  several  dishes  (plantain-leaves),  with  well-cooked  beef  and 
mutton,  and  a variety  of  vegetables,  from  her  table,  as  well  as  a 
number  of  round  moist  napkins,  made  in  the  shape  of  wafers, 
from  the  freshly-drawn  plantain  fibres,  to  wash  the  hands  and 
face  with.  There  was  no  doubt  now  about  her  culinary  accom- 
plishments. I told  her  so  when  she  returned,  and  that  I enjoyed 
her  parties  all  the  more  because  they  ended  with  a dinner. 
“ More  pombb,  more  pombe,”  cried  the  queen,  full  of  mirth  and 
glee,  helping  every  body  round  in  turn,  and  shouting  and  laugh- 
ing at  their  Kiganda  witticisms — making,  though  I knew  not  a 
word  said,  an  amusing  scene  to  behold — till  the  sun  sank;  and 
her  majesty  remarking  it,  turned  to  her  court  and  said,  “If  I get 
up,  will  Bana  also  rise,  and  not  accuse  me  of  deserting  him  ?” 
With  this  speech  a general  rising  took  place,  and,  watching  the 
queen’s  retiring,  I stood  with  my  hat  in  hand,  while  all  the  wa- 
kungu fell  upon  their  knees,  and  then  all  separated. 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


341 


28 th.  I went  to  the  palace,  and  found,  as  usual,  a large  levee 
waiting  the  king’s  pleasure  to  appear,  among  whom  were  the 
kamraviona,  Masimbi,  and  the  king’s  sister  Miengo.  I fired  my 
gun,  and  got  admitted  at  once,  but  none  of  the  others  could  fol- 
low me  save  Miengo.  The  king,  sitting  on  the  chair  with  his 
women  bj  his  side,  ordered  twelve  cloths,  the  presents  of  former 
Arab  visitors,  to  be  brought  before  him,  and  all  of  these  I was 
desired  to  turn  into  European  garments,  like  my  own  coats,  trow- 
sers,  and  waistcoats.  It  was  no  use  saying  I had  no  tailors — the 
thing  must  be  done  somehow ; for  he  admired  my  costume  ex- 
ceedingly, and  wished  to  imitate  it  now  he  had  cloth  enough  for-'' 
ever  to  dispense  with  the  mbugu. 

As  I had  often  begged  the  king  to  induce  his  men,  who  are  all 
wonderfully  clever  artisans,  to  imitate  the  chair  and  other  things 
I gave  him,  I now  told  him  if  he  would  order  some  of  his  semp- 
sters,  who  are  far  cleverer  with  the  needle  than  my  men,  to  my 
camp,  I would  cut  up  some  old  clothes,  and  so  teach  them  how 
to  work.  This  was  agreed  to,  and  five  cows  were  offered  as  a re- 
ward ; but,  as  his  men  never  came,  mine  had  to  do  the  job. 

Maul  a then  engaged  the  king’s  attention  for  fully  an  hour,  re- 
lating what  wonderful  things  Bana  kept  in  his  house,  if  his  maj- 
esty would  only  deign  to  see  them  ; and,  for  this  humbug,  got  re- 
warded by  a present  of  three  women.  Just  at  this  juncture  an 
adjutant  flew  overhead,  and,  by  way  of  fun,  I presented  my  gun, 
when  the  excited  king,  like  a boy  from  school,  jumped  up,  forget- 
ting his  company,  and  cried,  “Come,  Bana,  and  shoot  the  nundo; 

I know  where  he  has  gone : follow  me.”  And  away  we  went, 
first  through  one  court,  then  through  another,  till  we  found  the 
nundo  perched  on  a tree,  looking  like  a sedate  old  gentleman 
with  a bald  head,  and  very  sharp,  long  nose.  Politeness  lost  us 
the  bird ; for  while  I wished  the  king  to  shoot,  he  wished  me  to 
do  so,  from  fear  of  missing  it  himself.  He  did  not  care  about 
vultures — he  could  practice  at  them  at  any  time ; but  he  wanted 
a nundo  above  all  things.  The  bird,  however,  took  the  hint  and 
flew  away. 


342 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


CIIAPTEK  XIII. 

PALACE,  UGANDA — Continued. 

A Visit  to  a distinguished  Statesman. — A Visit  from  the  King. — Royal  Sport. — The 
Queen’s  Present  of  Wives. — The  Court  Beauties  and  their  Reverses. — Judicial 
Procedure  in  Uganda. — Buffalo-hunting. — A Musical  Party. — My  Medical  Prac- 
tice.— A Royal  Excursion  on  the  N’yanza. — The  Canoes  of  Uganda. — A Regatta. 
— Rifle  Practice.  — Domestic  Difficulties.  — Interference  of  a Magician. — The 
King’s  Brothers. 

29th.  According  to  appointment,  I went  early  this  morning 
to  visit  Congow.  He  kept  me  some  time  waiting  in  His  outer 
hut,  and  then  called  me  in  to  where  I found  him  sitting  with  his 
women — a large  group,  by  no  means  pretty.  His  huts  are  nu- 
merous, the  gardens  and  courts  all  very  neat  and  well  kept.  He 
was  much  delighted  with  my  coming,  produced  pombe,  and  asked 
me  what  I thought  of  his  women,  stripping  them  to  the  waist. 
He  assured  me  that  he  had  thus  paid  me  such  a compliment  as 
nobody  else  had  ever  obtained,  since  the  Waganda  are  very  jeal- 
ous of  one  another — so  much  so,  that  any  one  would  be  killed  if 
found  staring  upon  a woman  even  in  the  highways.  I asked  him 
what  use  he  had  for  so  many  women.  To  which  he  replied, 
“None  whatever;  the  king  gives  them  to  us  to  keep  up  our  rank, 
sometimes  as  many  as  one  hundred  together,  and  we  either  turn 
them  into  wives,  or  make  servants  of  them,  as  we  please.”  Just 
then  I heard  that  Mkuenda,  the  queen’s  woman-keeper,  was  out- 
side waiting  for  me,  but  dared  not  come  in,  because  Congow’s 
women  were  all  out;  so  I asked  leave  to  go  home  to  breakfast, 
much  to  the  surprise  of  Congow,  who  thought  I was  his  guest  for 
the  whole  day.  It  is  considered  very  indecorous  in  Uganda  to 
call  upon  two  persons  in  one  clay,  though  even  the  king  or  the 
queen  should  be  one  of  them.  Then,  as  there  was  no  help  for  it 
— Congow  could  not  detain  me  when  hungry — he  showed  me  a 
little  boy,  the  only  child  he  had,  and  said,  with  much  fatherly 
pride,  “ Both  the  king  and  queen  have  called  on  me  to  see  this 
line  little  fellow ;”  and  we  parted  to  meet  again  some  other  day. 
Outside  his  gate  I found  Mkuenda,  who  said  the  queen  had  sent 


March.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


343 


liim  to  invite  “ her  son”  to  bring  her  some  stomach  medicine  in 
the  morning,  and  come  to  have  a chat  with  her.  With  Mkuenda 
I walked  home ; but  he  was  so  awed  by  the  splendor  of  my  hut, 
with  its  few  blankets  and  bit  of  chintz,  that  he  would  not  even 
sit  upon  a cowskin,  but  asked  if  any  Waganda  dared  venture  in 
there.  He  was  either  too  dazzled  or  too  timid  to  answer  any 
questions,  and  in  a few  minutes  walked  away  again. 

After  this,  I had  scarcely  swallowed  my  breakfast  before  I re- 
ceived a summons  from  the  king  to  meet  him  out  shooting,  with 
all  the  Wanguana  armed,  and  my  guns;  and  going  toward  the 
palace,  found  him  with  a large  staff — pages  and  officers,  as  well 
as  women — in  a plantain  garden,. looking  eagerly  out  for  birds, 
while  his  band  was  playing.  In  addition  to  his  English  dress,  he 
wore  a turban,  and  pretended  that  the  glare  of  the  sun  was  dis- 
tressing his  eyes ; for,  in  fact,  he  wanted  me  to  give  him  a wide- 
awake like  my  own.  Then,  as  if  a sudden  freak  had  seized 
him,  though  I knew  it  was  on  account  of  Maula’s  having  excited 
his  curiosity,  he  said,  “ Where  does  Bana  live  ? lead  away.” 
Bounding  and  scrambling,  the  wakungu,  the  women  and  all,  went 
pell-mell  through  every  thing  toward  my  hut.  If  the  kamraviona 
or  any  of  the  boys  could  not  move  fast  enough,  on  account  of 
the  crops  on  the  fields,  they  were  piked  in  the  back  till  half 
knocked  over;  but,  instead  of  minding,  they  trotted  on,  n’yanzig- 
ging  as  if  honored  by  a kingly  poke,  though  treated  like  so  many 
dogs. 

Arrived  at  the  hut,  the  king  took  off  his  turban  as  I took  off 
my  hat,  and  seated  himself  on  my  stool,  while  the  kamraviona, 
with  much  difficulty,  was  induced  to  sit  upon  a cowskin,  and  the 
women  at  first  were  ordered  to  squat  outside.  Every  thing  that 
struck  the  eye  was  much  admired  and  begged  for,  though  noth- 
ing so  much  as  my  wideawake  and  musquito-curtains ; then,  as 
the  women  were  allowed  to  have  a peep  in  and  see  Bana  in  his 
den,  I gave  them  two  sacks  of  beads  to  make  the  visit  profitable, 
the  only  alternative  left  me  from  being  forced  into  inhospitality, 
for  no  one  would  drink  from  my  cup.  Moreover,  a present  was 
demanded  by  the  laws  of  the  country. 

The  king,  excitedly  impatient,  now  led  the  way  again,  shooting 
hurry-scurry  through  my  men’s  lines,  which  were  much  com- 
mented on  as  being  different  from  Waganda  hutting,  on  to  the 
tall  tree  with  the  adjutant’s  nest.  One  young  bird  was  still  liv- 
ing in  it.  There  was  no  shot,  so  bullets  must  be  fired ; and  the 


3-M 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


cunning  king,  wishing  to  show  off,  desired  me  to  fire  simultane- 
ously with  himself.  We  fired,  but  my  bullet  struck  the  bough 
the  nest  was  resting  on ; we  fired  again,  and  the  bullet  passed 
through  the  nest  without  touching  the  bird.  I then  asked  the 
king  to  allow  me  to  try  his  Whitworth,  to  which  a little  bit  of 
stick,  as  a charm  to  secure  a correct  aim,  had  been  tied  below  the 
trigger-guard.  This  time  I broke  the  bird’s  leg,  and  knocked 
him  half  out  of  the  nest ; so,  running  up  to  the  king,  I pointed  to 
the  charm,  saying,  That  has  done  it— hoping  to  laugh  him  out  'of 
the  folly;  but  he  took  my  joke  in  earnest,  and  he  turned  to  his 
men,  commenting  on  the  potency  of  the  charm.  While  thus  en- 
gaged, I took  another  rifle  and  brought  the  bird  down  altogether. 
“ Woh,  woh,  woh !”  shouted  the  king;  “Bana,  mzungu,  mzungu!” 
he  repeated,  leaping  and  clapping  his  hands,  as  he  ran  full  speed 
to  the  prostrate  bird,  while  the  drums-beat,  and  the  wakungu  fol- 
lowed him:  “Now,  is  not  this  a wonder?  but  we  must  go  and 
shoot  another.”  “Where?”  I said;  “we  may  walk  a long  way 
without  finding,  if  we  have  nothing  but  our  eyes  to  see  with. 
Just  send  for  your  telescope,  and  then  I will  show  you  how  to 
look  for  birds.”  Surprised  at  this  announcement,  the  king  sent 
his  pages  flying  for  the  instrument,  and  when  it  came  I instructed 
him  how  to  use  it;  when  he  could  see  with  it,  and  understand  its 
powers,  his  astonishment  knew  no  bounds;  and,  turning  to  his 
wakungu,  he  said,  laughing,  “ Now  I do  see  the  use  of  this  thing 
I have  been  shutting  up  in  the  palace.  On  that  distant  tree  I 
can  see  three  vultures.  To  its  right  there  is  a hut,  with  a woman 
sitting  inside  the  portal,  and  many  goats  are  feeding  all  about  the 
palace,  just  as  large  and  distinct  as  if  I was  close  by  them.” 

The  day  wais  now  far  spent,  and  all  proceeded  toward  the  pal- 
ace. On  the  way  a mistletoe  was  pointed  out  as  a rain-producing 
tree,  probably  because,  on  a former  occasion,  I had  advised  the 
king  to  grow  groves  of  coffee-trees  about  his  palace  to  improve 
its  appearance,  and  supply  the  court  with  wholesome  food;  at  the 
same  time  informing  him  that  trees  increase  the  falls  of  rain  in  a 
country,  though  very  high  ones  would  be  dangerous,  because  they 
attract  lightning.  Next  the  guns  must  be  fired  off;  and,  as  it 
would  be  a pity  to  waste  lead,  the  king,  amid  thunders  of  ap- 
plause, shot  five  crows,  presenting  his  gun  from  the  shoulder. 

So  ended  the  day’s  work  in  the  field,  but  not  at  home ; for  I 
had  hardly  arrived  there  before  the  pages  hurried  in  to  beg  for 
powder  and  shot,  then  caps,  then  cloth,  and,  every  thing  else  fail- 


Mabch.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


345 


ing,  a load  of  beads.  Such  are  the  persecutions  of  this  negro^ 
land : the  host  every  day  must  beg  something  in  the  most  shame- 
less manner  from  his  guest,  on  the  mere  chance  of  gaining  some- 
thing gratis,  though  I generally  gave  the  king  some  trifle  when 
he  least  expected  it,  and  made  an  excuse  that  he  must  wait  for 
the  arrival  of  fresh  stores  from  Gani  when  he  asked. 

30 th.  To  fulfill  my  engagement  with  the  queen,  I walked  off 
to  her  palace  with  stomach  medicine,  thinking  we  were  now  such 
warm  friends  all  pride  and  distant  ceremonies  would  be  dispensed 
with ; but,  on  the  contrary,  I was  kept  waiting  for  hours,  till  I 
sent  in  word  to  say,  if  she  did  not  want  medicine,  I wished  to  go 
home,  for  I was  tired  of  Uganda  and  every  thing  belonging  to  it. 
This  message  brought  her  to  her  gate,  where  she  stood  laughing 
till  the  Wahuma  girls  she  had  promised  me,  one  of  twelve  and 
the  other  a little  older,  were  brought  in  and  made  to  squat  in 
front  of  us.  The  elder,  who  was  in  the  prime  of  youth  and 
beauty,  very  large  of  limb,  dark  in  color,  cried  considerably ; 
while  the  younger  one,  though  very  fair,  had  a snubby  nose  and 
everted  lips,  and  laughed  as  if  she  thought  the  change  in  her  des- 
tiny very  good  fun.  I had  now  to  make  my  selection,  and  took 
the  smaller  one,  promising  her  to  Bombay  as  soon  as  we  arrived 
on  the  coast,  where,  he  said,  she  would  be  considered  a EEubshi  or 
Abyssinian.  But  when  the  queen  saw  what  I had  done,  she  gave 
me  the  other  as  well,  saying  the  little  one  was  too  young  to  go 
alone,  and,  if  separated,  she  would  take  fright  and  run  away. 
Then  with  a gracious  bow  I walked  off  with  my  two  fine  speci- 
mens of  natural  history,  though  I would  rather  have  had  princes, 
that  I might  have  taken  them  home  to  be  instructed  in  England ; 
but  the  queen,  as  soon  as  we  had  cleared  the  palace,  sent  word  to 
say  she  must  have  another  parting  look  at  her  son  with  his  wives. 
Still  laughing,  she  said,  “ That  will  do ; you  look  beautiful ; now 
go  away  home;”  and  off  we  trotted,  the  elder  sobbing  bitterly, 
the  younger  laughing. 

As  soon  as  we  reached  home,  my  first  inquiry  was  concerning 
their  histories,  of  which  they  appeared  to  know  but  very  little. 
The  elder,  whom  I named  Meri  (plantains),  was  obtained  by  Sun- 
na,  the  late  king,  as  a wife,  from  ISTkole ; and  though  she  was  a 
mere  kahala,  or  girl,  when  the  old  king  died,  he  was  so  attached 
to  her  he  gave  her  twenty  cows,  in  order  that  she  might  fatten  up 
on  milk  after  her  native  fashion ; but  on  Sunna’s  death,  when  the 
establishment  of  women  was  divided,  Meri  fell  to  bPyamasore’s 


346 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


(the  queen’s)  lot.  The  lesser  one,  who  still  retains  the  name  of 
Ivahala,  said  she  was  seized  in  Unyoro  by  the  Waganda,  who  took 
her  to  N’yamasore,  but  what  became  of  her  father  and  mother  she 
could  not  say. 

It  was  now  dinner-time,  and  as  the  usual  sweet  potatoes  and  ' 
goat’s  flesh  were  put  upon  my  box-table,  I asked  them  to  dine 
with  me,  and  we  became  great  friends,  for  they  were  assured  they 
would  finally  get  good  houses  and  gardens  at  Zanzibar;  but 
nothing  would  induce  either  of  them  to  touch  food  that  had  been 
cooked  with  butter.  A dish  of  plantains  and  goat-flesh  was  then 
prepared;  but,  though  Kahala  wished  to  eat  it,  Meri  rejected  the 
goat’s  flesh,  and  would  not  allow  Kahala  to  taste  it  either;  and 
thus  began  a series  of  domestic  difficulties.  On  inquiring  how  I 
could  best  deal  with  my  difficult  charge,  I was  told  the  Wahuma 
pride  was  great,  and  their  tempers  so  strong,  they  were  more  diffi- 
cult to  break  in  than  a phunda  or  donkey,  though  when  once 
tamed  they  became  the  best  of  wives. 

81sL  I wished  to  call  upon  the  queen  and  thank  her  for  her 
charming  present,  but  my  hungry  men  drove  me  to  the  king’s 
palace  in  search  of  food.  The  gun-firing  brought  Mtesa  out,  pre- 
pared for  a shooting  trip,  with  his  wakungu  leading,  the  pages 
carrying  his  rifle  and  ammunition,  and  a train  of  women  behind. 
The  first  thing  seen  outside  the  palace  gate  was  a herd  of  cows, 
from  which  four  were  selected  and  shot  at  fifty  paces  by  the  king, 
firing  from  his  shoulder,  amid  thunders  of  applause  and  hand- 
shakings of  the  elders.  I never  saw  them  dare  touch  the  king’s 
hand  before.  Then  Mtesa,  turning  kindly  to  me,  said,  “Pray 
take  a shot;”  but  I waived  the  offer  off,  saying  he  could  kill  bet- 
ter himself.  Ambitious  of  a cut  above  cows,  the  king  tried  his 
hand  at  some  herons  perched  on  a tree,  and,  after  five  or  six  at- 
tempts, hit  one  in  the  eye.  Hardly  able  to  believe  in  his  own 
skill,  he  stood  petrified  at  first,  and  then  ran  madly  to  the  fallen 
bird,  crying  “Woh,  woh,  woh!  can  this  be?  is  it  true?  Woh, 
woh  !”  He  jumped  in  the  air,  and  all  his  men  and  women  shouted 
in  concert  with  him.  Then  he  rushes  at  me,  takes  both  my  hands 
— shakes,  shakes — woh,  woh  ! — then  runs  to  his  women,  then  to 
his  men ; shakes  them  all,  woh-wohing,  but  yet  not  shaking  or 
wohing  half  enough  for  his  satisfaction,  for  he  is  mad  with  joy  at 
his  own  exploit. 

The  bird  is  then  sent  immediately  to  his  mother,  while  he  re- 
tires to  his  palace,  woh-wohing,  and  talking  “ ten  to  the  dozen” 


April  ] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


347 


all  the  way,  and  boasting  of  his  prowess.  “ Now,  Bana,  tell  me 
— do  you  not  think,  if  two  such  shots  as  you  and  I were  opposed 
to  an  elephant,  would  he  have  any  chance  before  us  ? I know  I 
can  shoot — I am  certain  of  it  now.  You  have  often  asked  me  to 
go  hippopotamus  shooting  with  you,  but  I staved  it  off  until  I 
learned  the  way  to  shoot.  Now,  however,  I can  shoot,  and  that 
remarkably  well,  too,  I flatter  myself.  I will  have  at  them,  and 
both  of  us  will  go  on  the  lake  together.”  The  palace  was  now 
reached;  musicians  were  ordered  to  play  before  the  king,  and 
wakungu.  appointments  were  made  to  celebrate  the  feats  of  the 
day.  Then  the  royal  cutler  brought  in  dinner-knives  made  of 
iron,  inlaid  with  squares  of  copper  and  brass,  and  goats  and  vege- 
tables were  presented  as  usual,  when  by  torchlight  we  were  dis- 
missed, my  men  taking  with  them  as  many  plantains  as  they 
could  carry. 

1st.  I staid  at  home  all  this  day  because  the  king  and  queen 
had  set  it  apart  for  looking  at  and  arranging  their  horns — ma- 
pembe,  or  fetishes,  as  the  learned  call  such  things — to  see  that 
there  are  no  imperfections  in  the  Uganga.  This  was  something 
like  an  inquiry  into  the  ecclesiastical  condition  of  the  country, 
while,  at  the  same  time,  it  was  a religious  ceremony,  and,  as  such, 
was  appropriate  to  the  first  day  after  the  new  moon  appears. 
This  being  the  third  moon  by  account,  in  pursuance  of  ancient 
custom,  all  the  people  about  court,  including  the  king,  shaved 
their  heads;  the  king,  however,  retaining  his  cockscomb,  the 
pages  their  double  cockades,  and  the  other  officers  their  single 
cockades  on  the  back  of  the  head,  or  either  side,  according  to  the 
official  rank  of  each.  My  men  were  occupied  making  trowsers 
for  the  king  all  day,  while  the  pages,  and  those  sent  to  learn  the 
art  of  tailoring,  instead  of  doing  their  duty,  kept  continually  beg- 
ging for  something  to  present  to  the  king. 

2d.  The  queen,  now  taking  a sporting  fit  into  her  head,  sent 
for  me  early  in  the  morning,  with  all  my  men,  armed,  to  shoot  a 
crested  crane  in  her  palace ; but,  though  we  were  there  as  re- 
quired, we  were  kept  waiting  till  late  in  the  afternoon,  when,  in- 
stead of  talking  about  shooting,  as  her  wakungu  had  forbidden 
her  doing  it,  she  asked  after  her  two  daughters — whether  they 
had  run  away,  or  if  they  liked  their  new  abode?  I replied  I was 
sorry  circumstances  did  not  permit  of  my  coming  to  thank  her 
sooner,  for  I felt  grateful  beyond  measure  to  her  for  having 
charmed  my  house  with  such  beautiful  society.  I did  not  follow 


348 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


her  advice  to  chain  either  of  them  with  iron,  for  I found  cords  of 
love,  the  only  instrument  white  men  know  the  use  of,  quite  strong 
enough.  Fascinated  with  this  speech,  she  said  she  would  give 
me  another  of  a middle  age  between  the  two,  expecting,  as  I 
thought,  that  she  would  thus  induce  me  to  visit  her  more  fre- 
quently than  I did  her  son ; but,  though  I thanked  her,  it  fright- 
ened me  from  visiting  her  for  ages  after. 

She  then  said,  with  glowing  pride,  casting  a sneer  on  the  king’s 
hospitality,  “ In  the  days  of  yore,  Sunna,  whenever  visitors  came 
to  see  him,  immediately  presented  them  with  women,  and,  second- 
ly, with  food ; for  he  was  very  particular  in  looking  after  his 
guests’  welfare,  which  is  not  exactly  what  you  find  the  case  now, 
I presume.”  The  rest  of  the  business  of  the  day  consisted  in  ap- 
plications for  medicine  and  medical  treatment,  which  it  was  diffi- 
cult satisfactorily  to  meet. 

3d.  To-day  Katumba,  the  king’s  head  page,  was  sent  to  me 
with  deoles  to  be  made  into  trowsers  and  waistcoats,  and  a large 
sixty-dollar  silk  I had  given  him  to  cover  the  chair  with.  The 
king  likes  rich  colors,  and  I was  solemnly  informed  that  he  will 
never  wear  any  thing  but  clothes  like  Bana. 

4 th.  By  invitation,  I went  to  the  palace  at  noon  with  guns,  and 
found  the  king  holding  a levee,  the  first  since  the  new  moon,  with 
all  heads  shaved  in  the  manner  I have  mentioned.  Soon  rising, 
he  showed  the  way  through  the  palace  to  a pond,  which  is  de- 
scribed as  his  bathing  N’yanza,  his  women  attending,  and  pages 
leading  the  way  with  his  guns.  From  this  we  passed  on  to  a 
jungle  lying  between  the  palace  hill  and  another  situated  at  the 
northern  end  of  the  lake,  where  wild  buffaloes  frequently  lie  con- 
cealed in  the  huge  papyrus  rushes  of  a miry  drain ; but  as  none 
could  be  seen  at  that  moment,  we  returned  again  to  the  palace. 
He  showed  me  large  mounds  of  earth,  in  the  shape  of  cocked 
hats,  which  are  private  observatories,  from  which  the  surround- 
ing country  can  be  seen.  By  the  side  of  these  observatories  are 
huts,  smaller  than  the  ordinary  ones  used  for  residing  in,  where 
the  king,  after  the  exertion  of  “ looking  out,”  takes  his  repose. 
Here  he  ordered  fruit  to  be  brought — the  matunguru,  a crimson 
pod  filled  with  acid  seeds,  which  has  only  been  observed  growing 
by  the  rivers  or  waters  of  Uganda,  and  kasori,  a sort  of  liquorice- 
root.  He  then  commenced  eating  with  us,  and  begging  again, 
unsuccessfully,  for  my  compass.  I tried  again  to  make  him  see 
the  absurdity  of  tying  a charm  on  Whitworth’s  rifle,  but  without 


April.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


349 


the  least  effect.  In  fact,  he  mistook  all  my  answers  for  admira- 
tion, and  asked  me,  in  the  simplest  manner  possible,  if  I would 
like  to  possess  a charm ; and  even  when  I said  “ No,  I should  be 
afraid  of  provoking  Lubari’s”  (God’s)  “anger  if  I did  so,”  he  only 
wondered  at  my  obstinacy,  so  thoroughly  was  he  wedded  to  his 
belief.  He  then  called  for  his  wideawake,  and  walked  with  us 
into  another  quarter  of  his  palace,  when  he  entered  a dressing- 
hut,  followed  by  a number  of  full-grown,  stark-naked  women,  his 
valets;  at  the  same  time  ordering  a large  body  of  women  to  sit  on 
one  side  of  the  entrance,  while  I,  with  Bombay,  were  directed  to 
sit  on  the  other,  waiting  till  he  was  ready  to  hold  another  levee. 
From  this  we  repaired  to  the  great  throne -hut,  where  all  his 
wakungu  at  once  formed  court,  and  business  was  commenced. 
Among  other  things,  an  officer,  by  name  Mbogo,  or  the  Buffalo, 
who  had  been  sent  on  a wild-goose  chase  to  look  after  Mr.  Peth- 
erick,  described  a journey  he  had  made,  following  down  the 
morning  sun.  After  he  had  passed  the  limits  of  plantain-eating 
men,  he  came  upon  men  who  lived  upon  meat  alone,  who  never 
wore  mbugus,  but  either  cloth  or  skins,  and  instead  of  the  spear 
they  used  the  double-edged  sime.  He  called  the  people  W asewe, 
and  their  chief  Kisawa;  but  the  company  pronounced  them  to  be 
Masawa  (Masai). 

After  this,  about  eighty  men  were  marched  into  the  court,  with 
their  faces  blackened,  and  strips  of  plantain-bark  tied  on  their 
heads,  each  holding  up  a stick  in  his  hand  in  place  of  a spear,  un- 
der the  regulation  that  no  person  is  permitted  to  carry  weapons 
of  any  sort  in  the  palace.  They  were  led  by  an  officer,  who, 
standing  like  a captain  before  his  company,  ordered  them  to 
jump  and  praise  the  king,  acting  the  part  of  fugleman  himself. 
Then  said  the  king,  turning  to  me,  “Did  I not  tell  you  I had  sent 
many  men  to  fight?  These  are  some  of  my  army  returned;  the 
rest  are  coming,  and  will  eventually,  when  all  are  collected,  go  in 
a body  to  fight  in  Usoga.”  Goats  and  other- peace-offerings  were 
then  presented;  and,  finally,  a large  body  of  officers  came  in  with 
an  old  man,  with  his  two  ears  shorn  off  for  having  been  too  hand- 
some in  his  youth,  and  a young  woman  who,  after  four  daj^s’ 
search,  had  been  discovered  in  his  house.  They  were  brought 
for  judgment  before  the  king. 

Nothing  was  listened  to  but  the  plaintiff’s  statement,  who  said 
he  had  lost  the  woman  four  days,  and,  after  considerable  search, 
had  found  her  concealed  by  the  old  man,  who  was  indeed  old 


350 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


enough  to  be  her  grandfather.  From  all  appearances,  one  would 
have  said  the  wretched  girl  had  run  away  from  the  plaintiff’s 
house  in  consequence  of  ill  treatment,  and  had  harbored  herself 
on  this  decrepid  old  man  without  asking  his  leave;  but  their 
voices  in  defense  were  never  heard,  for  the  king  instantly  sen- 
tenced both  to  death,  to  prevent  the  occurrence  of  such  impropri- 
ety again ; and,  to  make  the  example  more  severe,  decreed  that 
their  lives  should  not  be  taken  at  once,  but,  being  fed  to  preserve 
life  as  long  as  possible,  they  were  to  be  dismembered  bit  by  bit, 
as  rations  for  the  vultures,  every  day,  until  life  was  extinct.  The 
dismayed  criminals,  struggling  to  be  heard,  in  utter  despair,  were 
dragged  away  boisterously  in  the  most  barbarous  manner,  to  the 
drowning  music  of  the  mildle  and  drums. 

The  king,  in  total  unconcern  about  the  tragedy  he  had  thus 
enacted,  immediately  on  their  departure  said,  “ Now,  then,  for 
shooting,  Bana;  let  us  look  at  your  gun.”  It  happened  to  be 
loaded,  but  fortunately  only  with  powder,  to  fire  my  announce- 
ment at  the  palace ; for  he  instantly  placed  caps  on  the  nipples, 
and  let  off  one  barrel  by  accident,  the  contents  of  which  stuck  in 
the  thatch.  This  created  a momentary  alarm,  for  it  was  supposed 
the  thatch  had  taken  fire ; but  it  was  no  sooner  suppressed  than 
the  childish  king,  still  sitting  on  his  throne,  to  astonish  his  officers 
still  more,  leveled  the  gun  from  his  shoulder,  fired  the  contents 
of  the  second  barrel  into  the  faces  of  his  squatting  wakungu,  and 
then  laughed  at  his  own  trick.  In  the  mean  while  cows  were 
driven  in,  which  the  king  ordered  his  wakungu.  to  shoot  with  car- 
bines; and  as  they  missed  them,  he  showed  them  the  way  to 
shoot  with  the  Whitworth,  never  missing.  The  company  now 
broke  up,  but  I still  clung  to  the  king,  begging  him  to  allow  me 
to  purchase  food  with  beads,  as  I wanted  it,  for  my  establishment 
was  always  more  or  less  in  a starving  state;  but  he  only  said, 
“Let  us  know  what  you  want,  and  yon  shall  always  have  it;” 
which,  in  Uganda,  I knew  from  experience  only  meant,  Don’t 
bother  me  any  more,  but  give  me  your  spare  money,  and  help 
yourself  from  my  spacious  gardens — Uganda  is  before  you. 

5th.  To-day  the  king  went  on  a visit  to  his  mother,  and  there- 
fore neither  of  them  could  be  seen  by  visitors.  I took  a stroll 
toward  the  N’yanza,  passing  through  the  plantain-groves  occupied 
by  the  king’s  women,  where  my  man  Sangoro  had  been  twice 
taken  up  by  the  mgemma  and  put  in  the  stocks.  The  plantain 
gardens  were  beautifully  kept  by  numerous  women,  who  all  ran 


Apkil.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


351 


away  from  fright  at  seeing  me,  save  one  who,  taken  by  surprise, 
threw  herself  flat  on  the  ground,  rolled  herself  up  in  her  mbugu, 
and,  kicking  with  her  naked  heels,  roared  murder  and  help,  until 
I poked  her  up,  and  reproached  her  for  her  folly.  This  little  in- 
cident made  my  fairies  bolder,  and,  sidling  up  to  me  one  by  one, 
they  sat  in  a knot  with  me  upon  the  ground ; then  clasping  their 
heads  with  their  hands,  they  woh-wohed  in  admiration  of  the 
white  man ; they  never  in  all  their  lives  saw  any  thing  so  won- 
derful ; his  wife  and  children  must  be  like  him ; what  would  not 
Sunna  have  given  for  such  a treat  ? but  it  was  destined  to  Mtesa’s 
lot.  What  is  the  interpretation  of  this  sign,  if  it  does  not  point  to 
the  favor  in  which  Mtesa  is  upheld  by  the  spirits  ? I wished  to 
go,  but  no : “ Stop  a little  more,”  they  said,  all  in  a breath,  or 
rather  out  of  breath  in  their  excitement;  “remove  the  hat  and 
show  the  hair ; take  off  the  shoes  and  tuck  up  the  trowsers ; what 
on  earth  is  kept  in  the  pockets?  Oh,  wonder  of  wonders!  and 
the  iron !”  As  I put  the  watch  close  to  the  ear  of  one  of  them, 
“Tick,  tick,  tick — woh,  woh,  woh” — every  body  must  hear  it; 
and  then  the  works  had  to  be  seen.  “ Oh,  fearful !”  said  one ; 
“ hide  your  faces ; it  is  the  Lubari.  Shut  it  up,  Bana,  shut  it  up ; 
we  have  seen  enough ; but  you  will  come  again  and  bring  us 
beads.”  So  ended  the  day’s  work. 

6th.  To-day  I sent  Bombay  to  the  palace  for  food.  Though 
rain  fell  in  torrents,  he  found  the  king  holding  a levee,  giving  ap- 
pointments, plantations,  and  women,  according  to  merit,  to  his 
officers.  As  one  officer,  to  whom  only  one  woman  was  given, 
asked  for  more,  the  king  called  him  an  ingrate,  and  ordered  him 
to  be  cut  to  pieces  on  the  spot ; and  the  sentence  was,  as  Bombay 
told  me,  carried  into  effect ; not  with  knives,  for  they  are  prohib- 
ited, but  with  slips  of  sharp-edged  grass,  after  the  executioners 
had  first  dislocated  his  neck  by  a blow  delivered  behind  the  head 
with  a sharp,  heavy-headed  club. 

USTo  food,  however,  was  given  to  my  men,  though  the  king,  an- 
ticipating Bombay’s  coming,  sent  me  one  load  of  tobacco,  one  of 
butter,  and  one  of  coffee.  My  residence  in  Uganda  became  much 
more  merry  now,  for  all  the  women  of  the  camp  came  daily  to 
call  on  my  two  little  girls,  during  which  time  they  smoked  my 
tobacco,  chewed  my  coffee,  drank  my  pombe,  and  used  to  amuse 
me  with  queer  stories  of  their  native  land.  Rozaro’s  sister  also 
came,  and  proposed  to  marry  me,  for  Maula,  she  said,  was  a brutal 
man ; he  killed  one  of  his  women  because  he  did  not  like  her, 


352 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  RILE. 


and  now  he  had  clipped  one  of  this  poor  creature’s  ears  off  for 
trying  to  run  away  from  him  ; and  when  abused  for  his  brutality, 
he  only  replied,  “ It  was  no  fault  of  his,  as  the  king  set  the  exam- 
ple in  the  country.” 

In  the  evening  I took  a walk  with  Kahala,  dressed  in  a red 
scarf,  and  in  company  with  Lugoi,  to  show  my  children  off  in  the 
gardens  to  my  fair  friends  of  yesterday.  Every  body  was  sur- 
prised. The  mgemma  begged  us  to  sit  with  him  and  drink  pombe, 
which  he  generously  supplied  to  our  heart’s  content;  wondered 
at  the  beauty  of  Kahala,  wished  I would  give  him  a wife  like  her, 
and  lamented  that  the  king  would  not  allow  his  to  wear  such 
pretty  clothes.  We  passed  on  a little  farther,  and  were  invited 
to  sit  with  another  man,  Lukanikka,  to  drink  pombe  and  chew 
coffee,  which  we  did  as  before,  meeting  with  the  same  remarks ; 
for  all  Waganda,  instructed  by  the  court,  knew  the  art  of  flattery 
better  than  any  people  in  the  world,  even  including  the  French. 

7th.  In  the  morning,  while  it  rained  hard,  the  king  sent  to  say 
he  had  started  buffalo-shooting,  and  expected  me  to  join  him. 
After  walking  a mile  beyond  the  palace,  we  found  him  in  a plan- 
tain garden,  dressed  in  imitation  of  myself,  wideawake  and  all,  the 
perfect  picture  of  a snob.  He  sent  me  a pot  of  pombe,  which  I 
sent  home  to  the  wompn,  and  walked  off  for  the  shooting-ground, 
two  miles  farther  on,  the  band  playing  in  the  front,  followed  by 
some  hundred  wakungu — then  the  pages,  then  the  king,  next  my- 
self, and  finally  the  women — the  best  in  front,  the  worst  bringing 
up  the  rear,  with  the  king’s  spears  and  shield,  as  also  pots  of  pom- 
be, a luxury  the  king  never  moves  without.  It  was  easy  to  see 
there  would  be  no  sport,  still  more  useless  to  offer  any  remarks, 
therefore  all  did  as  they  were  bid.  The  broad  road,  like  all  in 
Uganda,  went  straight  over  hill  and  dale,  the  heights  covered  with 
high  grass  or  plantain -groves,  and  the  valleys  with  dense  masses 
of  magnificent  forest-trees  surrounding  swamps  covered  with  tall 
rushes  half  bridged.  Proceeding  on,  as  we  came  to  the  first  wa- 
ter, I commenced  flirtations  with  Mtesa’s  women,  much  to  the  sur- 
prise of  the  king  and  every  one.  The  bridge  was  broken,  as  a 
matter  of  course ; and  the  logs  which  composed  it,  lying  conceal- 
ed beneath  the  water,  were  toed  successively  by  the  leading  men, 
that  those  who  followed  should  not  be  tripped  up  by  them.  This 
favor  the  king  did  for  me,  and  I,  in  return,  for  the  women  be- 
hind ; they  had  never  been  favored  in  their  lives  with  such  gal- 
lantry, and  therefore  could  not  refrain  from  laughing,  which  at- 


April.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


358 


tracted  the  king’s  notice,  and  set  every  body  in  a giggle ; for  till 
now  no  mortal  man  had  ever  dared  communicate  with  his  women. 

Shortly  after  this  we  left  the  highway,  and,  turning  westward, 
passed  through  a dense  jungle  toward  the  eastern  shores  of  the 
Murchison  Creek,  cut  by  runnels  and  rivulets,  where  on  one  oc- 
casion I offered,  by  dumb  signs,  to  carry  the  fair  ones  pick-a-back 
over,  and  after  crossing  a second  myself  by  a floating  log,  offered 
my  hand.  The  leading  wife  first  fears  to  take  it,  then  grows  bold 
and  accepts  it ; when  the  prime  beauty,  Lubuga,  following  in  her 
wake,  and  anxious  to  feel,  I fancy,  what  the  white  man  is  like, 
with  an  imploring  face  holds  out  both  her  hands  in  such  a capti- 
vating manner,  that  though  I feared  to  draw  attention  by  waiting 
any  longer,  I could  not  resist  compliance.  The  king  noticed  it ; 
but,  instead  of  upbraiding  me,  passed  it  off  as  a joke,  and  running 
up  to  the  kamraviona,  gave  him  a poke  in  the  ribs,  and  whisper- 
ed what  he  had  seen,  as  if  it  had  been  a secret.  “Woh,  woh!” 
says  the  kamraviona;  “ what  wonders  will  happen  next?” 

We  were  now  on  the  buffalo  ground;  but  nothing  could  be 
seen  save  some  old  footprints  of  buffaloes,  and  a pitfall  made  for 
catching  them.  By  this  time  the  king  was  tired ; and  as  he  saw 
me  searching  for  a log  to  sit  upon,  he  made  one  of  his  pages  kneel 
upon  all  fours  and  sat  upon  his  back,  acting  the  monkey  in  aping 
myself ; for  otherwise  he  would  have  sat  on  a mbugu,  in  his  cus- 
tomary manner,  spread  on  the  ground.  We  returned,  pushing 
along,  up  one  way,  then  another,  without  a word,  in  thorough 
confusion,  for  the  king  delights  in  boyish  tricks,  which  he  has 
learned  to  play  successfully.  Leaving  the  road  and  plunging  into 
thickets  of  tall  grass,  the  band  and  wakungu.  must  run  for  their 
lives,  to  maintain  the  order  of  march,  by  heading  him  at  some 
distant  point  of  exit  from  the  jungle ; while  the  kamraviona,  lead- 
ing the  pages  and  my  men,  must  push  head  first,  like  a herd  of 
buffaloes,  through  the  sharp-cutting  grass,  at  a sufficient  rate  to 
prevent  the  royal  walk  from  being  impeded ; and  the  poor  wom- 
en, ready  to  sink  with  exhaustion,  can  only  be  kept  in  their  places 
by  fear  of  losing  their  lives. 

W e had  been  out  the  whole  day ; still  he  did  not  tire  of  these 
tricks,  and  played  them  incessantly  till  near  sundown,  when  we 
entered  the  palace.  Then  the  women  and  wakungu  separating 
from  us,  we — that  is,  the  king,  the  kamraviona,  pages,  and  myself 
— sat  down  to  a warm  feast  of  sweet  potatoes  and  plantains,  end- 
ing with  pombe  and  fruit,  while  moist  circular  napkins,  made  in 

Z 


354 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


the  shape  of  magnificent  wafers  out  of  plantain  fibre,  acted  at 
once  both  the  part  of  water  and  towel.  This  over,  as  the  guns 
had  to  be  emptied,  and  it  was  thought  sinful  to  waste  the  bullets, 
four  cows  were  ordered  in  and  shot  by  the  king.  Thus  ended 
the  day,  my  men  receiving  one  of  the  cows. 

8th.  As  Mtesa  was  tired  with  his  yesterday’s  work,  and  would 
not  see  any  body,  I took  Lugoi  and  Kahala,  with  a bundle  of 
beads,  to  give  a return  to  the  mgemma  for  his  late  treat  of  pornbd 
His  household  men  and  women  were  immensely  delighted  with 
us,  but  more  so,  they  said,  for  the  honor  of  the  visit.  They  gave 
us  more  pombd,  and  introduced  us  to  one  of  N’yamasore’s  numer- 
ous sisters,  who  was  equally  charmed  with  myself  and  my  chil- 
dren. The  mgemma  did  not  know  how  he  could  treat  us  proper- 
ly, he  said,  for  he  was  only  a poor  man ; but  he  would  order  some 
fowls,  that  I might  carry  them  away.  When  I refused  this  offer, 
because  we  came  to  see  him,  and  not  to  rob  him,  he  thought  it  the 
most  beautiful  language,  and  said  he  would  bring  them  to  the 
house  himself.  I added,  I hoped  he  would  do  so  in  company 
with  his  wife,  which  he  promised,  though  he  never  dared  fulfill 
the  promise ; and,  on  our  leaving,  sent  all  his  servants  to  escort 
us  beyond  the  premises.  In  the  evening,  as  the  king’s  musicians 
passed  the  camp,  I ordered  them  in  to  play  the  milelfi,  and  give 
my  men  and  children  a treat  of  dancing.  The  performers  received 
a bundle  of  beads  and  went  away  happy. 

9th.  I called  on  Congow,  but  found  him  absent,  waiting  on  the 
king  as  usual ; and  the  king  sent  for  my  big  rifle  to  shoot  birds 
with. 

10th.  In  consequence  of  my  having  explained  to  the  king  the 
effect  of  the  process  of  distilling,  and  the  way  of  doing  it,  he  sent 
a number  of  earthen  pots  and  bugus  of  pombe  that  I might  pro- 
duce some  spirits  for  him ; but  as  the  pots  sent  were  not  made 
after  the  proper  fashion,  I called  at  the  palace,  and  waited  all  day 
in  the  hope  of  seeing  him.  No  one,  however,  dared  enter  his  cab- 
inet, where  he  had  been  practicing  “Uganga”  all  day,  and  so  the 
pombe  turned  sour  and  useless.  Such  are  the  ways  of  Uganda 
all  over. 

1 1th.  The  king  was  out  shooting;  and  as  nothing  else  could  be 
done,  I invited  Uledi’s  pretty  wife  Guriku  to  eat  a mutton  break- 
fast, and  teach  my  child  Meri  not  to  be  so  proud.  In  this  we 
were  successful ; but,  whether  her  head  had  been  turned,  as  Bom- 
bay thought,  or  what  else,  we  know  not;  but  she  would  neither 


April.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


355 


walk  nor  talk,  nor  do  any  tiling  but  lie  at  full  length  all  day  long, 
smoking  and  lounging  in  thorough  indolence. 

Ylth.  I distilled  some  fresh  pombe  for  the  king ; and  taking  it 
to  him  in  the  afternoon,  fired  guns  to  announce  arrival.  He  was 
not  visible,  while  fearful  shrieks  were  heard  from  within,  and 
presently  a beautiful  woman,  one  of  the  king’s  sisters,  with  cocks- 
comb erect,  was  dragged  out  to  execution,  bewailing  and  calling 
on  her  king,  the  kamraviona,  and  mzungu,  by  turns,  to  save  her 
life.  Would  to  God  I could  have  done  it!  but  I did  not  know 
her  crime,  if  crime  she  had  committed,  and  therefore  had  to  hold 
my  tongue,  while  the  kamraviona,  and  other  wakungu  present,  ^ 
looked  on  with  utter  unconcern,  not  daring  to  make  the  slightest 
remark.  It  happened  that  Irungu  was  present  in  the  antecham- 
ber at  this  time ; and  as  Maula  came  with  my  party,  they  had  a 
fight  in  respect  to  their  merits  for  having  brought  welcome  guests 
to  their  king.  Mtesa,  it  was  argued,  had  given  N’yamgundu 
more  women  and  men  than  he  did  to  Maula,  because  he  was  the 
first  to  bring  intelligence  of  our  coming,  as  well  as  that  of  K’yen- 
go,  and  Siiwarora’s  hongo  to  his  king ; while,  finally,  he  super- 
seded Maula  by  taking  me  out  of  his  charge,  and  had  done  a far- 
ther good  service  by  sending  men  on  to  Karague  to  fetch  both 
Grant  and  K’yengo. 

Maula,  although  he  had  received  the  second  reward,  had  liter- 
ally done  nothing,  while  Irungu  had  been  years  absent  at  Usui, 
and  finally  had  brought  a valuable  hongo,  yet  he  got  less  than 
Maula.  This,  Irungu  said,  was  an  injustice  he  would  not  stand; 
N’yamgundu  fairly  earned  his  reward,  but  Maula  must  have  been 
tricking  to  get  more  than  himself.  He  would  get  a suitable  of- 
fering of  wire,  and  lay  his  complaint  in  court  the  first  opportuni- 
ty. “Pooh!  pooh!  nonsense!”  says  Maula,  laughing;  “I  will 
give  him  more  wires  than  you,  and  then  let  us  see  who  will  win 
the  king’s  ear.”  Upon  this  the  two  great  children  began  collect- 
ing wire  and  quarreling  until  the  sun  went  down,  and  I went  home. 

I did  not  return  to  a quiet  dinner,  as  I had  hoped,  but  to  meet 
the  summons  of  the  king.  Thinking  it  policy  to  obey,  I found 
him  waiting  my  coming  in  the  palace.  He  made  apologies  for 
not  answering  my  gun,  and  tasted  some  spirits,  resembling  toddy, 
which  I had  succeeded  in  distilling.  He  imbibed  it  with  great 
surprise ; it  was  wonderful  tipple ; he  must  have  some  more ; 
and,  for  the  purpose  of  brewing  better,  would  send  the  barrel  of 
an  old  Brown  Bess  musket,  as  well  as  more  pombe  and  wood  in 
the  morning. 


356 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


13th.  As  nothing  was  done  all  day,  I took  the  usual  promenade 
in  the  Seraglio  Park,  and  was  accosted  by  a very  pretty  little 
woman,  Kariana,  wife  of  Dumba,  who,  very  neatly  dressed,  was 
returning  from  a visit.  At  first  she  came  trotting  after  me,  then 
timidly  paused,  then  advanced,  and,  as  I approached  her,  stood 
spell-bound  at  my  remarkable  appearance.  At  last  recovering 
herself,  she  woh-wohed  with  all  the  coquetry  of  a Mganda  wom- 
an, and  a flirtation  followed ; she  must  see  my  hair,  my  watch, 
the  contents  of  my  pockets — every  thing;  but  that  was  not 
enough.  I waved  adieu,  but  still  she  followed.  I offered  my 
arm,  showing  her  how  to  take  it  in  European  fashion,  and  we 
walked  along,  to  the  surprise  of  every  body,  as  if  we  had  been  in 
Hyde  Park  rather  than  in  Central  Africa,  flirting  and  coquetting 
all  the  way.  I was  surprised  that  no  one  came  to  prevent  her 
forwardness ; but  not  till  I almost  reached  home  did  any  one  ap- 
pear, and  then,  with  great  scolding,  she  was  ordered  to  return — 
not,  however,  without  her  begging  I would  call  in  and  see  her 
on  some  future  occasion,  when  she  would  like  to  give  me  some 
pombe. 

IMi.  As  conflicting  reports  came  about  Grant,  the  king  very 
courteously,  at  my  request,  forwarded  letters  to  him.  I passed 
the  day  in  distilling  pombe,  and  the  evening  in  calling  on  Mrs. 
Dumba,  with  Meri,  Kahala,  Lugoi,  and  a troop  of  Wanyamudzi 
women.  She  was  very  agreeable;  but,  as  her  husband  was  at- 
tending at  the  palace,  could  not  give  pombe,  and  instead  gave  my 
female  escort  sundry  baskets  of  plantains  and  potatoes,  signify- 
ing a dinner,  and  walked  half  way  home,  flirting  with  me  as  be- 
fore. 

1 5th.  I called  on  the  king  with  all  the  spirits  I had  made,  as 
well  as  the  saccharine  residue.  We  found  him  holding  a levee, 
and  receiving  his  offerings  of  a batch  of  girls,  cows,  goats,  and 
other  things  of  an  ordinary  nature.  One  of  the  goats  presented 
gave  me  an  opportunity  of  hearing  one  of  the  strangest  stories  I 
had  yet  heard  in  this  strange  country : it  was  a fine  for  attempted 
regicide,  which  happened  yesterday,  when  a boy,  finding  the  king- 
alone,  which  is  very  unusual,  walked  up  to  him  and  threatened 
to  kill  him,  because,  he  said,  he  took  the  lives  of  men  unjustly. 
The  king  explained  by  description  and  pantomime  how  the  affair 
passed.  When  the  youth  attacked  him  he  had  in  his  hand  the 
revolving  pistol  I had  given  him,  and  showed  us,  holding  the 
weapon  to  his  cheek,  how  he  had  presented  the  muzzle  to  the 


April.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


357 


boy,  which,  though  it  was  unloaded,  so  frightened  him  that  he 
ran  away.  All  the  courtiers  n’yanzigged  vigorously  for  the  con- 
descension of  the  king  in  telling  us  this  story.  There  must  have 
been  some  special  reason  why,  in  a court  where  trifling  breaches 
of  etiquette  were  punished  with  a cruel  death,  so  grave  a crime 
should  have  been  so  leniently  dealt  with ; but  I could  not  get  at 
the  bottom  of  the  affair.  The  culprit,  a good-looking  young  fel- 
low of  sixteen  or  seventeen,  who  brought  in  the  goat,  made  his 
n’yanzigs,  stroked  the  goat  and  his  own  face  with  his  hands, 
n’yanzigged  again  with  prostrations,  and  retired. 

After  this  scene,  officers  announced  the  startling  fact  that  two 
white  men  had  been  seen  at  Kamrasi’s,  one  with  a beard  like  my- 
self, the  other  smooth-faced.  I jumped  at  this  news,  and  said, 
“ Of  course  they  are  there ; do  let  me  send  a letter  to  them.”  I 
believed  it  to  be  Petherick  and  a companion  whom  I knew  he 
was  to  bring  with  him.  The  king,  however,  damped  my  ardor 
by  saying  the  information  was  not  perfect,  and  we  must  wait 
until  certain  wakungu,  whom  he  sent  to  search  in  Unyoro,  re- 
turned. 

1 6 th.  The  regions  about  the  palace  were  all  in  a state  of  com- 
motion to-day,  men  and  women  running  for  their  lives  in  all  di- 
rections, followed  by  wakungu  and  their  retainers.  The  cause 
of  all  this  commotion  was  a royal  order  to  seize  sundry  refractory 
wakungu,  with  their  property,  wives,  concubines — if  such  a dis- 
tinction can  be  made  in  this  country — and  families  all  together. 
At  the  palace  Mtesa  had  a musical  party,  playing  the  flute  occa- 
sionally himself.  After  this  he  called  me  aside,  and  said,  “Now, 
Bana,  I wish  you  would  instruct  me,  as  you  have  so  often  pro- 
posed doing,  for  I wish  to  learn  every  thing,  though  I have  little 
opportunity  for  doing  so.”  Not  knowing  what  was  uppermost 
in  his  mind,  I begged  him  to  put  whatever  questions  he  liked, 
and  he  should  be  answered  seriatim , hoping  to  find  him  inquisi- 
tive on  foreign  matters ; but  nothing  was  more  foreign  to  his 
mind : none  of  his  countrymen  ever  seemed  to  think  beyond  the 
sphere  of  Uganda. 

The  whole  conversation  turned  on  medicines,  or  the  cause  and 
effects  of  diseases.  Cholera,  for  instance,  very  much  affected  the 
land  at  certain  seasons,  creating  much  mortality,  and  vanishing 
again  as  mysteriously  as  it  came.  What  brought  this  scourge  ? 
and  what  would  cure  it?  Supposing  a man  had  a headache, 
what  should  he  take  for  it  ? or  a leg-ache,  or  a stomach-ache,  or 


358 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1S62. 


itch — in  fact,  going  the  rounds  of  every  disease  he  knew,  until, 
exhausting  the  ordinary  complaints,  he  went  into  particulars  in 
which  he  was  personally  much  interested;  but  I was  unfortunate- 
ly unable  to  prescribe  medicines  which  produce  the  physical 
phenomenon  next  to  his  heart. 

llih.  I called  upon  the  king  by  appointment,  and  found  a large 
court,  where  the  wakungu  caught  yesterday,  and  sentenced  to 
execution,  received  their  reprieve  on  paying  fines  of  cattle  and 
young  damsels — their  daughters.  A variety  of  charms,  among 
which  were  some  bits  of  stick  strung  on  leather  and  covered  with 
serpent-skin,  were  presented  and  approved  of.  Kaggao,  a large 
district  officer,  considered  the  second  in  rank  here,  received  per- 
mission for  me  to  call  on  him  with  my  medicines.  I pressed  the 
king  again  to  send  men  with  mine  to  Kamrasi’s,  to  call  Petherick. 
At  first  he  objected  that  they  would  be  killed,  but  finally  he 
yielded,  and  appointed  Budja,  his  Unyoro  embassador,  for  the 
service.  Then,  breaking  up  the  court,  he  retired  with  a select 
party  of  wakungu,  headed  by  the  kamraviona,  and  opened  a con- 
versation on  the  subject  which  is  ever  uppermost  with  the  king 
and  big  courtiers. 

18 ih.  To-day  I visited  Kaggao  with  my  medicine-chest.  He 
had  a local  disease,  which  he  said  came  to  him  by  magic,  though 
a different  cause  was  sufficiently  obvious,  and  wanted  medicine 
such  as  I gave  Mkiienda,  who  reported  that  I gave  him  a most 
wonderful  draught.  Unfortunately,  I had  nothing  suitable  to 
give  my  new  patient,  but  cautioned  him  to  have  a care  lest  con- 
tagion should  run  throughout  his  immense  establishment,  and  ex- 
plained the  whole  of  the  circumstances  to  him.  Still  he  was  not 
satisfied ; he  would  give  me  slaves,  cows,  or  ivory,  if  I would 
only  cure  him.  He  was  a very  great  man,  as  I could  see,  with 
numerous  houses,  numerous  wives,  and  plenty  of  every  thing,  so 
that  it  was  ill-becoming  of  him  to  be  without  his  usual  habits. 
Rejecting  his  munificent  offers,  I gave  him  a cooling  dose  of 
calomel  and  jalap,  which  he  drank  like  pombe,  and  pronounced 
beautiful — holding  up  his  hands,  and  repeating  the  words  “Beau- 
tiful, beautiful ! they  are  all  beautiful  together ! There  is  Bana 
beautiful ! his  box  is  beautiful ! and  his  medicine  beautiful !” 
and,  saying  this,  led  us  in  to  see  his  women,  who  at  my  request 
were  grouped  in  war  apparel,  viz.,  a dirk  fastened  to  the  waist  by 
many  strings  of  colored  beads.  There  were  from  fifty  to  sixty 
women  present,  all  very  ladylike,  but  none  of  them  pretty.  Kag- 


April.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


359 


gao  then  informed  me  the  king  had  told  all  his  wakungu  he 
would  keep  me  as  his  guest  four  months  longer  to  see  if  Pethe- 
rick  came;  and  should  he  not  by  that  time,  he  would  give  me  an 
estate,  stocked  with  men,  women,  and  cattle,  in  perpetuity,  so  that, 
if  I ever  wished  to  leave  Uganda,  I should  always  have  some- 
thing to  come  back  to ; so  I might  now  know  what  my  fate  was 
to  be.  Before  leaving,  Kaggao  presented  us  with  two  cows  and 
ten  baskets  of  potatoes. 

19th.  I sent  a return  present  of  two  wires  and  twelve  fundo  of 
beads  of  sorts  to  Kaggao,  and  heard  that  the  king  had  gone  to 
show  himself  off  to  his  mother  dressed  Bana  fashion.  In  the 
evening  Katunzi,  N’yamasore’s  brother,  just  returned  from  the 
Unyoro  plunder,  called  on  me  while  I was  at  dinner.  Not  know- 
ing who  he  was,  and  surprised  at  such  audacity  in  Uganda,  for  he 
was  the  first  officer  who  ever  ventured  to  come  near  me  in  this 
manner,  I offered  him  a knife  and  fork,  and  a share  in  the  repast, 
which  rather  abashed  him ; for,  taking  it  as  a rebuff,  he  apolo- 
gized immediately  for  the  liberty  he  had  taken,  contrary  to  the 
etiquette  of  Uganda  society,  in  coming  to  a house  when  the  mas- 
ter was  at  dinner ; and  he  would  have  left  again  had  I not  press- 
ed him  to  remain.  Katunzi  then  told  me  the  whole  army  had  re- 
turned from  Unyoro,  with  immense  numbers  of  cows,  women,  and 
children,  but  not  men,  for  those  who  did  not  run  away  were  kill- 
ed fighting.  He  offered  me  a present  of  a woman,  and  pressed 
me  to  call  on  him. 

20th.  Still  I found  that  the  king  would  not  send  his  wakungu 
for  the  Unyoro  expedition,  so  I called  on  him  about  it.  Fortu- 
nately, he  asked  me  to  speak  a sentence  in  English,  that  he  might 
hear  how  it  sounds,  and  this  gave  me  an  opportunity  of  saying, 
if  he  had  kept  his  promise  by  sending  Budja  to  me,  I should  have 
dispatched  letters  to  Petherick.  This  was  no  sooner  interpreted 
than  he  said,  if  I would  send  my  men  to  him  with  letters  in  the 
morning,  he  would  forward  them  on,  accompanied  with  an  army. 
On  my  asking  if  the  army  was  intended  to  fight,  he  replied  in 
short,  “ First  to  feel  the  way.”  On  hearing  this,  I strongly  ad- 
vised him,  if  he  wished  the  road  to  be  kept  permanently  open,  to 
try  conciliation  with  Kamrasi,  and  send  him  some  trifling  present. 

Now  were  brought  in  some  thirty-odd  women  for  punishment 
and  execution,  when  the  king,  who  of  late  had  been  trying  to 
learn  Kisuahili,  in  order  that  we  might  be  able  to  converse  to- 
gether, asked  me,  in  that  language,  if  I would  like  to  have  some 


360 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE, 


[1862. 


of  these  women ; and  if  so,  how  many.  On  my  replying  “ One,” 
he  begged  me  to  take  my  choice,  and  a very  pretty  one  was  se- 
lected. God  only  knows  what  became  of  the  rest ; but  the  one  I 
selected,  on  reaching  home,  I gave  to  Ilmas,  my  valet,  for  a wife. 
He  and  all  the  other  household  servants  were  much  delighted 
with  this  charming  acquisition ; but  the  poor  girl,  from  the  time 
she  had  been  selected,  had  flattered  herself  she  was  to  be  Bana’s 
wife,  and  became  immensely  indignant  at  the  supposed  transfer, 
though  from  the  first  I had  intended  her  for  Ilmas,  not  only  to 
favor  him  for  his  past  good  services,  but  as  an  example  to  my 
other  men,  as  I had  promised  to  give  them  all,  provided  they  be- 
haved well  upon  the  journey,  a “free-man’s  garden,”  with  one 
wife  each  and  a purse  of  money,  to  begin  a new  life  upon,  as  soon 
as  they  reached  Zanzibar.  The  temper  of  Meri  and  Kahala  was 
shown  in  a very  forcible  manner:  they  wanted  this  maid  as  an 
addition  to  my  family;  called  her  into  the  hut  and  chatted  till 


View  of  the 


midnight,  instructing  her  not  to  wed  with  Ilmas ; and  then,  in- 
stead of  turning  into  bed  as  usual,  they  all  three  slept  upon  the 
ground.  My  patience  could  stand  this  phase  of  henpecking  no 
longer,  so  I called  in  Manamaka,  the  head  Myamuezi  woman, 
whom  I had  selected  for  their  governess,  and  directed  her  to  as- 
sist Ilmas,  and  put  them  to  bed  “bundling.” 

21s/.  In  the  morning,  before  I had  time  to  write  letters,  the 
king  invited  me  to  join  him  at  some  new  tank  he  was  making  be- 
tween his  palace  and  the  residence  of  his  brothers.  I found  him 


April.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


361 


sitting  with,  his  brothers,  all  playing  in  concert  on  flutes.  I ask- 
ed him,  in  Kisuahili,  if  he  knew  where  Grant  was.  On  replying 
in  the  negative,  I proposed  sending  a letter,  which  he  approved  of ; 
and  Budja  was  again  ordered  to  go  with  an  army  for  Petherick. 

22 d.  Mabruki  and  Bilal,  with  Budja,  started  to  meet  Petherick, 
and  three  more  men,  with  another  letter  to  Grant.  I called  on 
the  king,  who  appointed  the  24th  instant  for  an  excursion  of  three 
days’  hippopotamus  shooting  on  the  N’yanza. 

23d.  To-day  occurred  a brilliant  instance  of  the  capricious  rest- 
lessness and  self-willedness  of  this  despotic  king.  At  noon,  pages 
hurried  in  to  say  that  he  had  started  for  the  N’yanza,  and  wished 
me  to  follow  him  without  delay.  N’yanza,  as  I have  mentioned, 
merely  means  a piece  of  water,  whether  a pond,  river,  or  lake; 
and  as  no  one  knew  which  n’yanza  he  meant,  or  what  project 
was  on  foot,  I started  off  in  a hurry,  leaving  every  thing  behind, 
and  walked  rapidly  through  gardens,  over  hills,  and  across  rushy 


Murchison  Creek. 


swamps,  down  the  west  flank  of  the  Murchison  Creek,  till  3 P.M., 
when  I found  the  king  dressed  in  red,  with  his  wakungu  in  front 
and  women  behind,  traveling  along  in  the  confused  manner  of  a 
pack  of  hounds,  occasionally  firing  his  rifle  that  I might  know 
his  whereabouts.  He  had  just,  it  seems,  mingled  a little  business 
with  pleasure;  for  noticing,  as  he  passed,  a woman  tied  by  the 
hands  to  be  punished  for  some  offense,  the  nature  of  which  I did 
not  learn,  he  took  the  executioner’s  duty  on  himself,  fired  at  her, 
and  killed  her  outright. 


362 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


On  this  occasion,  to  test  all  liis  followers,  and  prove  their  readi- 
ness to  serve  him,  he  had  started  on  a Sudden  freak  for  the  three 
days’  excursion  on  the  lake  one  day  before  the  appointed  time, 
expecting  every  body  to  fall  into  place  by  magic,  without  the 
smallest  regard  to  each  one’s  property,  feelings,  or  comfort.  The 
home  must  be  forsaken  without  a last  adieu,  the  dinner  untasted, 
and  no  provision  made  for  the  coming  night,  in  order  that  his  im- 
petuous majesty  should  not  suffer  one  moment’s  disappointment. 
The  result  was  natural:  many  who  would  have  come  were  no- 
where to  be  found ; my  guns,  bed,  bedding,  and  note-books,  as 
well  as  cooking  utensils,  were  all  left  behind,  and,  though  sent  for, 
did  not  arrive  till  the  following  day. 


Uganda  Boat. 


On  arrival  at  the  mooring  station  no  one  boat  was  to  be  found, 
nor  did  any  arrive  until  after  dark,  when,  on  the  beating  of  drums 
and  firing  of  guns,  some  fifty  large  ones  appeared.  They  were 
all  painted  with  red  clay,  and  averaged  from  ten  to  thirty  paddles, 
with  long  prows  standing  out  like  the  neck  of  a siphon  or  swan, 
decorated  on  the  head  with  the  horns  of  the  nsunnu  (lencotis) 
antelope,  between  which  was  stuck  upright  a tuft  of  feathers  ex- 
actly like  a grenadier’s  plume.  These  arrived  to  convey  us  across 
the  mouth  of  a deep  rushy  swamp  to  the  royal  yachting  estab- 
lishment, the  Cowes  of  Uganda,  distant  five  hours’  traveling  from 
the  palace.  We  reached  the  Cowes  by  torchlight  at  9 P.M.,  when 
the  king  had  a picnic  dinner  with  me,  turned  in  with  his  women 
in  great  comfort,  and  sent  me  off  to  a dreary  hut,  where  I had  to 
sleep  upon  a grass-strewn  floor.  I was  surprised  we  had  to  walk 


April.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


S63 


so  far,  when,  by  appearance,  we  might  have  boated  it  from  the 
head  of  the  creek  all  the  way  down  ; but,  on  inquiry,  was  inform- 
ed the  swampy  nature  of  the  ground  at  the  head  of  the  creek  pre- 
cluded any  approach  to  the  clear  water  there,  and  hence  the  long 
overland  journey,  which,  though  fatiguing  to  the  unfortunate 
women,  who  had  to  trot  the  whole  way  behind  Mtesa’s  four-mile- 
an-hour  strides,  was  very  amusing.  The  whole  of  the  scenery — 
hill,  dale,  and  lake— was  extremely  beautiful.  The  Wanguana  in 
my  escort  compared  the  view  to  their  own  beautiful  poani  (coast) ; 
but  in  my  opinion  it  far  surpassed  any  thing  I ever  saw,  either 
from  the  sea  or  upon  the  coast  of  Zanzibar. 

The  king  rose  betimes  in  the  morning  and  called  me,  unwashed 

and  very  uncomfortable,  to  picnic  with  him  during 

Cowes,  Uth.  J , 

the  collection  oi  the  boats.  The  breakfast,  eaten  m 
the  open  court,  consisted  of  sundry  baskets  of  roast  beef  and 
plantain-squash  folded  in  plantain-leaves.  He  sometimes  ate  with 
a copper  knife  and  picker,  not  forked ; but  more  usually  like  a 
dog,  with  both  hands.  The  bits  too  tough  for  his  mastication  he 
would  take  from  his  mouth  and  give  as  a treat  to  the  pages,  who 
n’yanzigged,  and  swallowed  them  with  much  seeming  relish. 
Whatever  remained  over  was  then  divided  by  the  boys,  and  the 
baskets  taken  to  the  cooks.  Pombe  served  as  tea,  coffee,  and  beer 
for  the  king,  but  his  guests  might  think  themselves  very  lucky  if 
they  ever  got  a drop  of  it. 

ISTow  for  the  lake.  Every  body  in  a hurry  falls  into  his  place 
the  best  way  he  can  — wakungu  leading,  and  women  behind. 
They  rattle  along,  through  plantains  and  shrubs,  under  large  trees, 
seven,  eight,  and  nine  feet  in  diameter,  till  the  beautiful  waters  are 
reached — a picture  of  the  Eio  scenery,  barring  that  of  the  higher 
mountains  in  the  background  of  that  lovely  place,  which  are  here 
represented  by  the  most  beautiful  little  hills.  A band  of  fifteen 
drums  of  all  sizes,  called  the  mazaguzo,  playing  with  the  regular- 
ity of  a lot  of  factory  engines  at  work,  announced  the  king’s  ar- 
rival, and  brought  all  the  boats  to  the  shore,  but  not  as  in  Eng- 
land, where  Jack,  with  all  the  consequence  of  a lord  at  home,  in- 
vites the  ladies  to  be  seated,  and  enjoys  the  sight  of  so  many  pret- 
ty faces.  Here  every  poor  fellow,  with  his  apprehensions  written 
in  his  face,  leaps  over  the  gunwale  into  the  water,  ducking  his 
head  from  fear  of  being  accused  of  gazing  on  the  fair  sex,  which 
is  death,  and  bides  patiently  his  time.  They  were  dressed  in 
plantain-leaves,  looking  like  grotesque  Neptunes.  The  king,  in 


364 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


his  red  coat  and  wideawake,  conducted  the  arrangements,  order- 
ing all  to  their  proper  places — the  women  in  certain  boats,  the 
wakungu  and  Wanguana  in  others,  while  I sat  in  the  same  boat 
with  him  at  his  feet,  three  women  holding  mbugus  of  pombe  be- 
hind. The  king’s  Kisuahili  now  came  into  play,  and  he  was 
prompt  in  carrying  out  the  directions  he  got  from  myself  to  ap- 
proach the  hippopotami.  But  the  waters  were  too  large  and  the 
animals  too  shy,  so  we  toiled  all  the  day  without  any  effect,  going 
only  once  ashore  to  picnic ; not  for  the  women  to  eat — for  they, 
poor  things,  got  nothing — but  the  king,  myself,  the  pages,  and  the 
principal  wakungu.  As  a wind-up  to  the  day’s  amusement,  the 
king  led  the  band  of  drums,  changed  the  men  according  to  their 
powers,  put  them  into  concert  pitch,  and  readily  detected  every 
slight  irregularity,  showing  himself  a thorough  musician. 

This  day  requires  no  remark,  every  thing  done  being  the  coun- 


mstance,  sometimes  by  catching  hold  of  my  beard  as  the  rolling 
of  the  boat  unsteadied  him. 


changed  his  tactics,  and,  paddling  and  steering  himself  with  a pair 
of  new  white  paddles,  finally  directed  the  boats  to  an  island  occu- 
pied by  the  mgussa,  or  Neptune  of  the  N’yanza,  not  in  person — 
for  mgussa  is  a spirit — but  by  his  familiar  or  deputy,  the  great 
medium  who  communicates  the  secrets  of  the  deep  to  the  King  of 
Uganda.  In  another  sense,  he  might  be  said  to  be  the  presiding 
priest  of  the  source  of  the  mighty  Nile,  and  as  such  was,  of  course, 
an  interesting  person  for  me  to  meet.  The  first  operation  on 
shore  was  picnicking,  when  many  large  mbugus  of  pombe  were 
brought  for  the  king ; next,  the  whole  party  took  a walk,  wind- 
ing through  the  trees,  and  picking  fruit,  enjoying  themselves 
amazingly,  till,  by  some  unlucky  chance,  one  of  the  royal  wives, 
a most  charming  creature,  and  truly  one  of  the  best  of  the  lot, 
plucked  a fruit  and  offered  it  to  the  king,  thinking,  doubtless,  to 
please  him  greatly ; but  he,  like  a madman,  flew  into  a towering 
passion,  said  it  was  the  first  time  a woman  ever  had  the  impu- 
dence to  offer  him  any  thing,  and  ordered  the  pages  to  seize,  bind, 
and  lead  her  off  to  execution. 


gether,  became  more  playful  and  familiar — amusing  himself,  for 


Cowes,  25  tli. 


We  started  early  in  the  usual  manner;  but,  after  working  up 


Cowes,  26 th. 


and  down  the  creek,  inspecting  the  inlets  for  hippo- 
potami, and  tiring  from  want  of  sport,  the  king 


Apbil.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


365 


These  words  were  no  sooner  uttered  by  the  king  than  the 
whole  bevy  of  pages  slipped  their  cord  turbans  from  their  heads, 
and  rushed  like  a pack  of  cupid  beagles  upon  the  fairy  queen, 
who,  indignant  at  the  little  urchins  daring  to  touch  her  majesty, 
remonstrated  with  the  king,  and  tried  to  beat  them  off  like  flies, 
but  was  soon  captured,  overcome,  and  dragged  away,  crying,  in 
the  names  of  the  kamraviona  and  mzungu  (myself),  for  help  and 
protection ; while  Lubuga,  the  pet  sister,  and  all  the  other  wom- 
en, clasped  the  king  by  his  legs,  and,  kneeling,  implored  forgive- 
ness for  their  sister.  The  more  they  craved  for  mercy  the  more 
brutal  he  became,  till  at  last  he  took  a heavy  stick  and  began  to 
belabor  the  poor  victim  on  the  head. 

Hitherto  I had  been  extremely  careful  not  to  interfere  with  any 
of  the  king’s  acts  of  arbitrary  cruelty,  knowing  that  such  inter- 
ference, at  an  early  stage,  would  produce  more  harm  than  good. 
This  last  act  of  barbarism,  however,  was  too  much  for  my  English 
blood  to  stand ; and,  as  I heard  my  name,  mzungu,  imploringly 
pronounced,  I rushed  at  the  king,  and,  staying  his  uplifted  arm, 
demanded  from  him  the  woman’s  life.  Of  course  I ran  imminent 
risk  of  losing  my  own  in  thus  thwarting  the  capricious  tyrant ; 
but  his  caprice  proved  the  friend  of  both.  The  novelty  of  inter- 
ference even  made  him  smile,  and  the  woman  was  instantly  re- 
leased. 

Proceeding  on  through  the  trees  of  this  beautiful  island,  we 
next  turned  into  the  hut  of  the  mgussa’s  familiar,  which  at  the 
farther  end  was  decorated  with  many  mystic  symbols — among 
others  a paddle,  the  badge  of  his  high  office — and  for  some  time 
we  sat  chatting,  when  pombe  was  brought,  and  the  spiritual  me- 
dium arrived.  He  was  dressed  wichwezi  fashion,  with  a little 
white  goatskin  apron,  adorned  with  numerous  charms,  and  used  a 
paddle  for  a mace  or  walking-stick.  He  was  not  an  old  man, 
though  he  affected  to  be  so,  walking  very  slowly  and  deliberately, 
coughing  asthmatically,  glimmering  with  his  eyes,  and  mumbling 
like  a witch.  With  much  affected  difficulty  he  sat  at  the  end  of 
the  hut  beside  the  symbols  alluded  to,  and  continued  his  cough- 
ing full  half  an  hour,  when  his  wife  came  in  in  the  same  manner, 
without  saying  a word,  and  assumed  the  same  affected  style.  The 
king  jokingly  looked  at  me  and  laughed,  and  then  at  these  strange 
creatures  by  turn,  as  much  as  to  say,  What  do  you  think  of 
them?  but  no  voice  was  heard  save  that  of  the  old  wife,  who 
croaked  like  a frog  for  water,  and,  when  some  was  brought,  croak- 


366 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


ed  again  because  it  was  not  the  purest  of  the  lake’s  produce — had 
the  first  cup  changed,  wetted  her  lips  with  the  second,  and  hob- 
bled away  in  the  same  manner  as  she  came. 

At  this  juncture  the  mgussa’s  familiar  motioned  the  kamraviona 
and  several  officers  to  draw  around  him,  when,  in  a very  low 
tone,  he  gave  them  all  the  orders  of  the  deep,  and  walked  away. 
His  revelations  seemed  unpropitious,  for  we  immediately  repaired 
to  our  boats  and  returned  to  our  quarters.  Here  we  no  sooner 
arrived  than  a host  of  wakungu,  lately  returned  from  the  Unyoro 
war,  came  to  pay  their  respects  to  the  king:  they  had  returned 
six  days  or  more,  but  etiquette  had  forbidden  their  approaching 
majesty  sooner.  Their  successes  had  been  great,  their  losses  nil, 
for  not  one  man  had  lost  his  life  fighting.  To  these  men  the  king 
narrated  all  the  adventures  of  the  day,  dwelling  more  particularly 
on  my  defending  his  wife’s  life,  whom  he  had  destined  for  execu- 
tion. This  was  highly  approved  of  by  all ; and  they  unanimous- 
ly said  Bana  knew  what  he  was  about,  because  he  dispenses  jus- 
tice like  a king  in  his  own  country. 

Early  in  the  morning  a great  hue  and  cry  was  made  because 
the  Wanguana  had  been  seen  bathing  in  the  N’vanza 

Cowes,  21th.  , , . , iTi  -it  J Trr 

naked,  without  the  slightest  regard  to  decency.  We 
went  boating  as  usual  all  day  long,  sometimes  after  hippopotami, 
at  others  racing  up  and  down  the  lake,  the  king  and  wakungu 
paddling  and  steering  by  turns,  the  only  break  to  this  fatigue  be- 
ing when  we  went  ashore  to  picnic,  or  the  king  took  a turn  at  the 
drums.  During  the  evening  some  of  the  principal  wakungu  were 
collected  to  listen  to  an  intellectual  discourse  on  the  peculiarities 
of  the  different  women  in  the  royal  establishment,  and  the  king 
in  good-humor  described  the  benefits  he  had  derived  from  this 
pleasant  tour  on  the  water. 

While  I was  preparing  my  Massey’s  log  to  show  the  use  of  it 
to  the  king,  he  went  off  boating  without  me ; and  as 
the  few  remaining  boats  would  not  take  me  off  be- 
cause they  had  received  no  orders  to  do  so,  I fired  guns,  but,  get- 
ting no  reply,  went  into  the  country  hoping  to  find  game ; but, 
disappointed  in  that  also,  I spent  the  first  half  of  the  day  with  a 
hospitable  old  lady,  who  treated  us  to  the  last  drop  of  pombe  in 
her  house- — for  the  king’s  servants  had  robbed  her  of  nearly  every 
thing — smoked  her  pipe  with  me,  and  chatted  incessantly  on  the 
honor  paid  her  by  the  white  king’s  visit,  as  well  as  of  the  horrors 
of  Uganda  punishment,  when  my  servants  told  her  I saved  the 


Cowes,  28th. 


April.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


367 


life  of  one  queen.  Returning  homeward,  the  afternoon  was  spent 
at  a hospitable  officer’s,  who  would  not  allow  us  to  depart  until 
my  men  were  all  fuddled  with  pombe,  and  the  evening  setting  in 
warned  us  to  wend  our  way.  On  arrival  at  camp,  the  king,  quite 
shocked  with  himself  for  having  deserted  me,  asked  me  if  I did 
not  hear  his  guns  fire.  He  had  sent  twenty  officers  to  scour  the 
country,  looking  for  me  every  where.  He  had  been  on  the  lake 
the  whole  day  himself,  and  was  now  amusing  his  officers  with  a 
little  archery  practice,  even  using  the  bow  himself,  and  making 
them  shoot  by  turns.  A lucky  shot  brought  forth  immense  ap- 
plause, all  jumping  and  n’yanzigging  with  delight,  whether  it  was 
done  by  their  own  bows  or  the  king’s. 

A shield  was  the  mark,  stuck  up  at  only  thirty  paces ; still  they 
were  such  bad  shots  that  they  hardly  ever  hit  it.  How  tired  of 
this  slow  sport,  and  to  show  his  superior  prowess,  the  king  order- 
ed sixteen  shields  to  be  placed  before  him,  one  in  front  of  the 
other,  and  with  one  shot  from  Whitworth  pierced  the  whole  of 
them,  the  bullet  passing  through  the  bosses  of  nearly  every  one. 
“ Ah !”  says  the  king,  strutting  about  with  gigantic  strides,  and 
brandishing  the  rifle  over  his  head  before  all  his  men,  “ what  is 
the  use  of  spears  and  bows  ? I shall  never  fight  with  any  thing 
but  guns  in  future.”  These  wakungu,  having  only  just  then  re- 
turned from  plundering  Unyoro,  had  never  before  seen  their  king 
in  a chair,  or  any  body  sitting,  as  I was,  by  his  side ; and  it  being 
foreign  to  their  notions,  as  well  as,  perhaps,  unpleasant  to  their 
feelings,  to  find  a stranger  sitting  higher  than  themselves,  they 
complained  against  this  outrage  to  custom,  and  induced  the  king 
to  order  my  dethronement.  The  result  was,  as  my  iron  stool  was 
objectionable,  I stood  for  a moment  to  see  that  I thoroughly  un- 
derstood their  meaning ; and  then,  showing  them  my  back,  walk- 
ed straightway  home  to  make  a grass  throne,  and  dodge  them  that 
way. 

There  was  nothing  for  dinner  last  night,  nothing  again  this 
c morning,  yet  no  one  would  go  in  to  report  this  fact, 

as  rain  was  falling,  and  the  king  was  shut  up  with 
his  women.  Presently  the  thought  struck  me  that  the  rifle,  which 
was  always  infallible  in  gaining  me  a speedy  admittance  at  the 
palace,  might  be  of  the  same  service  now.  I therefore  shot  a dove 
close  to  the  royal  abode,  and,  as  I expected,  roused  the  king  at 
once,  who  sent  out  his  pages  to  know  what  the  firing  was  about. 
When  told  the  truth — that  I had  been  trying  to  shoot  a dish  of 


368 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


doves  for  breakfast,  as  I could  get  neither  meat  nor  drink  from 
his  kitchen — the  head  boy,  rather  guessing  than  understanding 
what  was  told  him,  distorted  my  message,  and  said  to  the  king, 
as  I could  not  obtain  a regular  supply  of  food  from  his  house,  1 
did  not  wish  to  accept  any  thing  farther  at  his  hands,  but  intend- 
ed foraging  for  the  future  in  the  jungles.  The  king,  as  might  be 
imagined,  did  not  believe  the  boy’s  story,  and  sent  other  pages  to 
ascertain  the  truth  of  the  case,  bidding  them  listen  well,  and  be- 
ware of  what  they  were  about.  This  second  lot  of  boys  conveyed 
the  story  rightly,  when  the  king  sent  me  a cow.  As  I afterward 
heard,  he  cut  off  the  ears  of  the  unfortunate  little  mischief-maker 
for  not  making  a proper  use  of  those  organs;  and  then,  as  the  lad 
was  the  son  of  one  of  his  own  officers,  he  was  sent  home  to  have 
the  sores  healed.  After  breakfast  the  king  called  me  to  go  boat- 
ing, when  I used  my  grass  throne,  to  the  annoyance  of  the  at- 
tendants. This  induced  the  king  to  say  before  them,  laughing, 
“Bana,  you  see,  is  not  to  be  done;  he  is  accustomed  to  sit  before 
kings,  and  sit  he  will.”  Then,  by  way  of  change,  he  ordered  all 
the  drums  to  embark  and  play  upon  the  waters,  while  he  and  his 
attendants  paddled  and  steered  by  turns,  first  up  the  creek,  and 
then  down  nearly  to  the  broad  waters  of  the  lake. 

There  was  a passage  this  way,  it  was  said,  leading  up  to  Usoga, 
but  very  circuitous,  on  account  of  reefs  or  shoals,  and  on  the  way 
the  Kitiri  island  was  passed ; but  no  other  Kitiri  was  known  to 
the  Waganda,  though  boats  sometimes  went  coasting  down  the 
western  side  of  the  lake  to  Ukerewe.  The  largest  island  on  the 
lake  is  the  Sese,*  off  the  mouth  of  the  Katonga  River,  where  an- 
other of  the  high  priests  of  the  Neptune  of  the  N’yanza  resides. 
The  king’s  largest  vessels  are  kept  there,  and  it  is  famous  for  its 
supply  of  mbugu  barks.  We  next  went  on  shore  to  picnic,  when 
a young  hippopotamus,  speared  by  harpoon,  one  pig,  and  a pongo 
or  bush-boc,  were  presented  to  the  king.  I now  advised  boat- 
racing, which  was  duly  ordered,  and  afforded  much  amusement, 
as  the  whole  fifty  boats  formed  in  line,  and  paddled  furiously  to 
the  beat  of  drum  to  the  goal  which  I indicated. 

The  day  was  done.  In  great  glee  the  king,  ever  much  attached 
to  the  blackguard  Maula,  in  consequence  of  his  amusing  stories, 
appointed  him  to  the  office  of  seizer,  or  chief  kidnapper  of  wa- 
kungu ; observing  that,  after  the  return  of  so  many  officers  from 
war,  much  business  in  that  line  would  naturally  have  to  be  done, 
* Some  say  a group  of  forty  islands  compose  Se'se. 


Apbil.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


369 


and  there  was  none  so  trustworthy  now  at  court  to  cany  out  the 
king’s  orders.  All  now  went  to  the  camp ; but  what  was  my 
astonishment,  on  reaching  the  hut,  to  find  every  servant  gone, 
along  with  the  pots,  pans,  meat,  every  thing,  and  all  in  conse- 
quence of  the  king’s  having  taken  the  drums  on  board,  which, 
being  unusual,  was  regarded  as  one  of  his  delusive  tricks,  and  a 
sign  of  immediate  departure.  He  had  told  no  one  he  was  going 
to  the  N’yanza,  and  now  it  was  thought  he  would  return  in  the 
same  way.  I fired  for  my  supper,  but  fired  in  vain.  Boys  came 
out,  by  the  king’s  order,  to  inquire  what  I wanted,  but  left  again 
without  doing  any  thing  farther. 

At  my  request  the  king  sent  off  boats  to  inquire  after  the  one 
that  left,  or  was  supposed  to  have  left,  for  Grant  on 
the  3d  of  March,  and  he  then  ordered  the  return 
home,  much  to  my  delight ; for,  beautiful  as  the  N’yanza  was,  the 
want  of  consideration  for  other  people’s  comfort,  the  tiring,  inces- 
sant boating,  all  day  long  and  every  day,  in  the  sun,  as  well  as 
the  king’s  hurry-scurry  about  every  thing  he  undertook  to  do, 
without  the  smallest  forethought,  preparation,  or  warning,  made 
me  dream  of  my  children,  and  look  forward  with  pleasure  to  re- 
joining them.  Strange  as  it  may  appear  to  Englishmen,  I had  a 
sort  of  paternal  love  for  those  little  blackamoors  as  if  they  had 
been  my  offspring:  and  I enjoyed  the  simple  stories  that  their 
sable  visitors  told  me  every  day  they  came  over  to  smoke  their 
pipes,  which  they  did  with  the  utmost  familiarity,  helping  them- 
selves from  my  stores  just  as  they  liked. 

Without  any  breakfast,  we  returned  by  the  same  route  by 
which  we  had  come,  at  four  miles  an  hour,  till  half  the  way  was 
cleared,  when  the  king  said,  laughing,  “ Bana,  are  you  hungry  ?” 
— a ridiculous  question  after  twenty -four  hours’  starvation,  which 
he  knew  full  well — and  led  the  way  into  a plantain-grove,  where 
the  first  hut  that  was  found  was  turned  inside  out  for  the  king’s 
accommodation,  and  picnic  was  prepared.  As,  however,  he  or- 
dered my  portion  to  be  given  outside  with  the  pages’,  and  allowed 
neither  pombe  nor  water,  I gave  him  the  slip,  and  walked  hur- 
riedly home,  where  I found  Kahala  smirking,  and  apparently 
glad  to  see  us,  but  Meri  shamming  ill  in  bed,  while  Manamaka, 
the  governess,  was  full  of  smiles  and  conversation.  She  declared 
Meri  had  neither  tasted  food  nor  slept  since  my  departure,  but 
had  been  retching  all  the  time.  Dreadfully  concerned  at  the 
doleful  story,  I immediately  thought  of  giving  relief  with  medi- 

A A 


370  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [1862. 

cines,  but  neither  pulse,  tongue,  nor  any  thing  else  indicated  the 
slightest  disorder ; and,  to  add  to  these  troubles,  Ilmas’s  woman 
had  tried  during  my  absence  to  hang  herself,  because  she  would 
not  serve  as  servant,  but  wished  to  be  my  wife ; and  Bombay’s 
wife,  after  taking  a dose  of  quinine,  was  delivered  of  a stillborn 
child. 

ls£.  I visited  the  king,  at  his  request,  with  the  medicine-chest, 
lie  had  caught  a cold.  He  showed  me  several  of  his  women 
grievously  affected  with  boils,  and  expected  me  to  cure  them  at 
once.  I then  went  home,  and  found  twenty  men  who  had  passed 
Grant,  coming  on  a stretcher  from  Karague,  without  any  of  the 


Captain  Grant  leaving  Karague. 


rear  property.  Meri,  still  persistent,  rejected  strengthening  medi- 
cines, but  said,  in  a confidential  manner,  if  I would  give  her  a 
goat  to  sacrifice  to  the  Uganga  she  would  recover  in  no  time. 
There  was  something  in  her  manner  when  she  said  this  that  I did 
not  like — it  looked  suspicious;  and  I contented  myself  by  say- 
ing, “Ho,  I am  a wiser  doctor  than  any  in  these  lands;  if  any 
body  could  cure  you,  that  person  is  myself;  and,  farther,  if  I 
gave  you  a goat  to  sacrifice,  God  would  be  angry  with  both  of  us 
for  our  superstitious  credulity ; you  must,  therefore,  say  no  more 
about  it.” 


May.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


371 


2 d.  The  whole  country  around  the  palace  was  in  a state  of 
commotion  to-day,  from  Maula  and  his  children  hunting  down 
those  officers  who  had  returned  from  the  war,  yet  had  not  paid 
their  respects  to  the  king  at  the  N’yanza,  because  they  thought 
they  would  not  be  justified  in  calling  on  him  so  quickly  after 
their  arrival.  Maula’s  house,  in  consequence  of  this,  was  full  of 
beef  and  pombe ; while  in  his  court-yard,  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, with  feet  in  stocks,  very  like  the  old  parish  stocks  in  En- 
gland, waited  his  pleasure,  to  see  what  demands  he  would  make 
upon  them  as  the  price  of  their  release.  After  anxiously  watch- 
ing, I found  out  that  Meri  was  angry  with  me  for  not  allowing 
Ilmas’s  woman  to  live  in  my  house ; and,  to  conquer  my  resolu- 
tion against  it — although  I ordered  it  with  a view  to  please  Ilmas, 
for  he  was  desperately  in  love  with  her — she  made  herself  sick 
by  putting  her  finger  down  her  throat.  I scolded  her  for  her 
obstinacy.  She  said  she  was  ill — it  was  not  feigned ; and  if  I 
would  give  her  a goat  to  sacrifice  she  would  be  well  at  once ; for 
she  had  looked  into  the  magic  horn  already,  and  discovered  that 
if  I gave  her  a goat  for  that  purpose  it  would  prove  that  I loved 
her,  and  her  health  would  be  restored  to  her  at  once.  Halloo! 
here  was  a transformation  from  the  paternal  position  into  that  of 
a henpecked  husband ! Somebody,  I smelt  at  once,  had  been 
tampering  with  my  household  while  I was  away.  I commenced 
investigations,  and  after  a while  found  out  that  Eozaro’s  sister 
had  brought  a magician  belonging  to  her  family  into  the  hut  dur- 
ing my  absence,  who  had  put  Meri  up  to  this  trick  of  extorting  a 
goat  from  me,  in  order  that  he  might  benefit  by  it  himself,  for  the 
magician  eats  the  sacrifice  and  keeps  the  skin. 

I immediately  ordered  him  to  be  seized  and  bound  to  the  flag- 
staff, while  Maula,  Uledi,  Rozaro,  and  Bombay  were  summoned  to 
witness  the  process  of  investigation.  Rozaro  flew  into  a passion, 
and  tried  to  release  the  magician  as  soon  as  he  saw  him,  affecting 
intense  indignation  that  I should  take  the  law  into  my  own  hands 
when  one  of  Rumanika’s  subjects  was  accused,  but  only  lost  his 
dignity  still  more  on  being  told  he  had  acknowledged  his  inabil- 
ity to  control  his  men  so  often  when  they  had  misbehaved,  that  I 
scorned  to  ask  his  assistance  any  longer.  He  took  huff  at  this, 
and.  as  he  could  not  help  himself,  walked  away,  leaving  us  to  do 
as  we  liked.  The  charge  was  fully  proved.  The  impudent  ma- 
gician, without  leave,  and  contrary  to  all  the  usages  of  the  coun- 
try, had  entered  and  set  my  house  against  itself  during  my  ab- 


372 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


sence,  and  had  schemed  to  rob  me  of  a goat.  I therefore  sen- 
tenced him  to  fifty  lashes — twenty-five  for  the  injury  he  had  in- 
flicted on  me  by  working  up  a rebellion  in  my  house,  and  the  re- 
maining twenty-five  for  attempting  larceny — saying,  as  he  had 
wanted  mj^  goat  and  its  skin,  so  now,  in  return,  I wanted  his  skin. 
These  words  were  no  sooner  pronounced  than  the  wretched  Mbri 
cried  out  against  it,  saying  all  the  fault  was  hers:  “Let  the  stick 
skin  my  back,  but  spare  my  doctor ; it  would  kill  me  to  see  him 
touched.” 

This  appeal  let  me  see  that  there  was  something  in  the  whole 
matter  too  deep  and  intricate  to  be  remedied  by  my  skill.  I 
therefore  dismissed  her  on  the  spot,  and  gave  her,  as  a sister  and 
free  woman,  to  Uledi  and  his  pretty  Minima  wife,  giving  Bombay 
orders  to  carry  the  sentences  into  execution.  After  walking 
about  till  after  dark,  on  returning  to  the  empty  house  I had  some 
misgivings  as  to  the  apparent  cruelty  of  abandoning  one  so  help- 
less to  the  uncertainties  of  this  wicked  world.  Ilmas’s  woman 
also  ran  away,  doubtless  at  the  instigation  of  Bozaro’s  sister,  for 
she  had  been  denied  any  farther  access  to  the  house,  as  being  at 
the  bottom  of  all  this  mischief. 

2>d.  I was  haunted  all  night  by  my  fancied  cruelty,  and  in  the 
morning  sent  its  victim,  after  Uganda  fashion,  some  symbolical 
presents,  including  a goat,  in  token  of  esteem ; a black  blanket,  as 
a sign  of  mourning ; a bundle  of  gundu  anklets ; and  a packet 
of  tobacco,  in  proof  of  my  forgiveness. 


May.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


373 


CHAPTER  XIY. 

PALACE,  UGANDA — Continued. 

Reception  of  a victorious  Army  at  Court. — Royal  Sport. — A Review  of  the  Troops. 
— Negotiations  for  the  Opening  of  the  Road  along  the  Nile. — Grant’s  Return. — 
Pillagings. — Court  Marriages. — The  King’s  Brothers. — Divinations  and  Sacri- 
fices.— The  Road  granted  at  last. — The  Preparations  for  continuing  the  Expedi- 
tion.— The  Departure. 

I NOW  received  a letter  from  Grant  to  say  lie  was  coming  by 
boat  from  Kitangule,  and  at  once  went  to  the  palace  to  give  the 
welcome  news  to  the  king.  The  road  to  the  palace  I found 
thronged  with  people;  and  in  the  square  outside  the  entrance 
there  squatted  a multitude  of  attendants,  headed  by  the  king,  sit- 
ting on  a cloth,  dressed  in  his  national  costume,  with  two  spears 
and  a shield  by  his  side.  On  his  right  hand  the  pages  sat  wait- 
ing for  orders,  while  on  his  left  there  was  a small  squatting  clus- 
ter of  women,  headed  by  wichwezis,  or  attendant  sorceresses,  of- 
fering pombe.  In  front  of  the  king,  in  form  of  a hollow  square, 
many  ranks  deep,  sat  the  victorious  officers,  lately  returned  from 
the  war,  variously  dressed ; the  nobles  distinguished  by  their 
leopard-cat  skins  and  dirks,  the  commoners  by  colored  mbugu 
and  cow  or  antelope  skin  cloaks,  but  all  their  faces  and  arms  were 
painted  red,  black,  or  smoke-color.  Within  the  square  of  men 
immediately  fronting  the  king,  the  war-arms  of  Uganda  were  ar- 
ranged in  three  ranks ; the  great  war-drum,  covered  with  a leop- 
ard-skin, and  standing  on  a large  carpeting  of  them,  was  placed  in 
advance;  behind  this,  propped  or  hung  on  a rack  of  iron,  were  a 
variety  of  the  implements  of  war  in  common  use,  offensive  and 
defensive,  as  spears — of  which  two  were  of  copper,  the  rest  iron — 
and  shields  of  wood  and  leather ; while  in  the  last  row  or  lot 
were  arranged  systematically,  with  great  taste  and  powerful  effect, 
the  supernatural  arms,  the  god  of  Uganda,  consisting  of  charms 
of  various  descriptions  and  in  great  numbers.  Outside  the  square 
again,  in  a line  with  the  king,  were  the  household  arms,  a very 
handsome  copper  kettle-drum,  of  French  manufacture,  surmount- 
ed on  the  outer  edge  with  pretty  little  brass  bells  depending  from 


374 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


swan-neck-shaped  copper  wire,  two  new  spears,  a painted  leather 
shield,  and  magic  wands  of  various  devices,  deposited  on  a carpet 
of  leopard-skins — the  whole  scene  giving  the  effect  of  true  barbar- 
ous royalty  in  its  uttermost  magnificence. 

Approaching,  as  usual,  to  take  my  seat  beside  the  king,  some 
slight  sensation  was  perceptible,  and  I was  directed  to  sit  beyond 
the  women.  The  whole  ceremonies  of  this  grand  assemblage 
were  now  obvious.  Each  regimental  commandant  in  turn  nar- 
rated the  whole  services  of  his  party,  distinguishing  those  subs 
who  executed  his  orders  well  and  successfully  from  those  who 
either  deserted  before  the  enemy  or  feared  to  follow  up  their  suc- 
cess. The  king  listened  attentively,  making,'  let  us  suppose,  very 
shrewd  remarks  concerning  them  ; when  t&  the  worthy  he  award- 
ed pombe,  helped  with  gourd-cups  from  large  earthen  jars,  which 
was  n’yanzigged  for  vehemently ; and  to1  the  unworthy,  execu- 
tion. When  the  fatal  sentence  was  pronounced,  a thfrible  bustle 
ensued,  the  convict  wrestling  and  defying,  while  the  other  men 
seized,  pulled,  and  tore  the  struggling  wretch  from  the  crowd, 
bound  him  hands  and  head  together,  and  led  or  rather  tumbled 
him  away. 

After  a while,  and  when  all  business  was  over,  the  king  begged 
me  to  follow  him  into  the  palace.  He  asked  again  for  stimulants 
— a matter  ever  uppermost  in  his  mind — and  would  not  be  con- 
vinced that  such  things  can  do  him  no  possible  good,  but  would 
in  the  end  be  deleterious.  Grant’s  letter  was  then  read  to  him 
before  his  women,  and  I asked  for  the  dismissal  of  all  the  Wan- 
yambo,  for  they  had  not  only  destroyed  my  peace  and  home,  but 
were  always  getting  me  into  disrepute  by  plundering  the  Wagan- 
da  in  the  highways.  No  answer  was  given  to  this ; and  on  walk- 
ing home,  I found  one  of  the  king’s  women  at  my  hut,  imploring 
protection  against  the  Wanyambo,  who  had  robbed  and  bruised 
her  so  often,  she  could  not  stand  such  abuse  any  longer. 

4th.  I sent  Maula  early  in  the  morning,  with  the  plundered 
woman,  and  desired  him  to  request  that  the  Wanyambo  might 
be  dismissed.  He  returned,  saying  he  delivered  my  message,  but 
no  reply  was  given.  I then  searched  for  the  king,  and  found  him 
at  his  brothers’  suite  of  huts  playing  the  flute  before  them.  On 
taking  my  seat,  he  proudly  pointed  to  two  vultures  which  he  had 
shot  with  bullet,  saying  to  his  brothers,  “ There,  do  you  see  these 
birds  ? Bana  shoots  with  shot,  but  I kill  with  bullets.”  To  try 
him,  I then  asked  for  leave  to  go  to  Usoga,  as  Grant  was  so  far 


May.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


375 


off;  but  be  said,  “ No,  wait  until  be  comes,  and  you  shall  both  go 
together  then ; you  fancy  he  is  far  off,  but  I know  better.  One 
of  my  men  saw  him  coming  along  carried  on  a stretcher.”  I said, 
“ No,  that  must  be  a mistake,  for  he  told  me  by  letter  he  would 
come  by  water.” 

Heavy  rain  now  set  in,  and  we  got  under  cover ; but  the  broth- 
ers never  moved,  some  even  sitting  in  the  streaming  gutter,  and 
n’yanzigging  whenever  noticed.  The  eldest  brother  offered  me 
his  cup  of  pombe,  thinking  I would  not  drink  it;  but  when  he 
saw  its  contents  vanishing  fast,  he  cried  “lekerow!”  (hold  fast!) 
and  as  I pretended  not  to  understand  him,  continuing  to  drink,  he 
rudely  snatched  the  cup  from  my  lips.  Alternate  concerts  with 
the  brothers,  and  conversation  about  hunting,  in  consequence  of 
a bump  caused  by  a fall  when  steeple-chasing,  which  was  discov- 
ered on  my  forehead,  ended  this  day’s  entertainment. 

5 th.  As  all  the  Wanguana  went  foraging,  I was  compelled  to 
stop  at  home.  The  king,  however,  sent  an  officer  for  Grant,  be- 
cause I would  not  believe  in  his  statement  yesterday  that  he  was 
coming  by  land ; and  I also  sent  a lot  of  men  with  a litter  to  help 
him  on,  and  bring  me  an  answer. 

6th.  I went  to  the  palace  at  the  king’s  command.  He  kept  us 
waiting  an  hour,  and  then  passing  out  by  a side  gate,  beckoned 
us  to  follow.  He  was  dressed  in  European  clothes,  with  his  guns 
and  tin  box  of  clothes  leading  the  way.  His  first  question  was, 
“Well,  Bana,  where  are  your  guns?  for  I have  called  you  to  go 
shooting.”  “ The  pages  never  said  any  thing  about  shooting,  and 
therefore  the  guns  were  left  behind.”  Totally  unconcerned,  the 
king  walked  on  to  his  brothers’,  headed  by  a band  and  attendants, 
who  were  much  lauded  for  being  ready  at  a moment’s  notice.  A 
grand  flute  concert  was  then  played,  one  of  the  younger  brothers 
keeping  time  with  a long  hand-drum ; then  the  band  played ; and 
dancing,  and  duets,  and  singing  followed.  After  the  usual  pres- 
entations, fines,  and  n’yanziggings,  I asked  for  leave  to  go  and 
meet  Grant  by  water,  but  was  hastily  told  that  two  boats  had  been 
sent  for  him  when  we  returned  from  the  N’yanza,  and  that  two 
runners,  just  returned  from  Karague,  said  he  was  on  the  way  not 
far  off.  The  child-king  then  changed  his  dress  for  another  suit 
of  clothes  for  his  brothers  to  admire,  and  I retired  much  annoyed, 
as  he  would  neither  give  pombe  for  myself  nor  plantains  for  my 
men ; and  I was  farther  annoyed  on  my  arrival  at  home  to  find 
the  Wanguana  mobbing  my  hut  and  clamoring  for  food,  and  call- 


376 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


ing  for  an  order  to  plunder  if  I did  not  give  them  beads,  which, 
as  the  stock  had  run  short,  I could  only  do  by  their  returning  to 
Karague  for  the  beads  stored  there ; and,  even  if  they  were  ob- 
tained, it  was  questionable  if  the  king  would  re'voke  his  order 
prohibiting  the  sale  of  provisions  to  us. 

7th.  To-day  I called  at  the  queen’s,  but  had  to  wait  five  hours 
in  company  with  some  attendants,  to  whom  she  sent  pombe  oc- 
casionally ; but,  after  waiting  for  her  nearly  all  day,  they  were 
dismissed,  because  excess  of  business  prevented  her  seeing  them, 
though  I was  desired  to  remain.  I asked  these  attendants  to  sell 
me  food  for  beads,  but  they  declared  they  could  not  without  ob- 
taining permission.  In  the  evening  the  queen  stumped  out  of 
her  chambers  and  walked  to  the  other  end  of  her  palace,  where 
the  head  or  queen  of  the  wichwdzi  women  lived,  to  whom  every 
body  paid  the  profoundest  respect.  On  the  way  I joined  her,  she 
saying,  in  a state  of  high  anger,  “You  won’t  call  on  me  now  I 
have  given  you  such  a charming  damsel : you  have  quite  forgot- 
ten us  in  your  love  of  home.”  Of  course  Meri’s  misdemeanor 
had  to  be  explained,  when  she  said,  “ As  that  is  the  case,  I will 
give  you  another ; but  you  must  take  Meri  out  of  the  country, 
else  she  will  bring  trouble  on  us ; for,  you  know,  I never  gave 
girls  who  lived  in  the  palace  to  any  one  in  my  life  before,  because 
they  would  tell  domestic  affairs  not  proper  for  common  people  to 
know.”  I then  said  my  reason  for  not  seeing  her  before  was,  that 
the  four  times  I had  sent  messengers  to  make  an  appointment  for 
the  following  day,  they  had  been  repulsed  from  her  doors.  This 
she  would  not  believe,  but  called  me  a story-teller  in  very  coarse 
language,  until  the  men  who  had  been  sent  were  pointed  out  to 
her,  and  they  corroborated  me. 

The  wichwezi  queen  met  her  majesty  with  her  head  held  very 
high,  and,  instead  of  permitting  me  to  sit  on  my  box  of  grass, 
threw  out  a bundle  of  grass  for  that  purpose.  All  conversation 
was  kept  between  the  two  queens ; but  her  wichwezi  majesty  had 
a platter  of  clay-stone  brought,  which  she  ate  with  great  relish, 
making  a noise  of  satisfaction  like  a happy  Guinea-pig.  She 
threw  me  a bit,  which,  to  the  surprise  of  every  body,  I caught 
and  threw  into  my  mouth,  thinking  it  was  some  confection ; but 
the  harsh  taste  soon  made  me  spit  it  out  again,  to  the  amusement 
of  the  company.  On  returning  home  I found  the  king  had  request- 
ed me  to  call  on  him  as  soon  as  possible  with  the  medicine-chest. 

8th.  Without  a morsel  to  eat  for  dinner  last  night,  or  any  thing 


Mat.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


377 


this  morning,  we  proceeded  early  to  the  palace,  in  great  expecta- 
tion that  the  medicines  in  request  would  bring  us  something ; but 
after  waiting  all  day  till  4 P.M.,  as  the  king  did  not  appear,  leav- 
ing Bombay  behind,  I walked  away  to  shoot  a Guinea-fowl  with- 
in earshot  of  the  palace.  The  scheme  was  successful,  for  the  re- 
port of  the  gun  which  killed  the  bird  reached  the  king’s  ear,  and 
induced  him  to  say  if  Bana  was  present  he  would  be  glad  to  see 
him.  This  gave  Bombay  an  opportunity  of  telling  all  the  facts 
of  the  case,  which  were  no  sooner  heard  than  the  king  gave  his 
starving  guests  a number  of  plantains,  and  vanished  at  once,  tak- 
ing my  page  Lugoi  with  him,  to  instruct  him  in  Kisuahili  (Zanzi- 
bar language). 

9th.  As  the  fruit  of  last  night’s  scheme,  the  king  sent  us  four 
goats  and  two  cows.  In  great  good-humor  I now  called  on  him, 
and  found  him  walking  about  the  palace  environs  with  a carbine, 
looking  eagerly  for  sport,  while  his  pages  dragged  about  five  half- 
dead vultures  tied  in  a bundle  by  their  legs  to  a string.  “ These 
birds,”  said  he,  tossing  his  head  proudly,  “ were  all  shot  flying, 
with  iron  slugs,  as  the  boys  will  tell  you.  I like  the  carbine  very 
well,  but  you  must  give  me  a double  smooth  gun.”  This  I prom- 
ised to  give  when  Grant  arrived,  for  his  good-nature  in  sending 
so  many  officers  to  fetch  him. 

"W e next  tried  for  Guinea-fowl,  as  I tell  him  they  are  the  game 
the  English  delight  in ; but  the  day  was  far  spent,  and  none  could 
be  found.  A boy  then  in  attendance  was  pointed  out  as  having 
seen  Grant  in  Uddu  ten  days  ago.  If  the  statement  were  true,  he 
must  have  crossed  the  Katonga.  But,  though  told  with  great  ap- 
parent circumspection,  I did  not  credit  it,  because  my  men  sent 
on  the  15th  ultimo  for  a letter  to  ascertain  his  whereabouts  had 
not  returned,  and  they  certainly  would  have  done  so  had  he  been 
so  near.  To  make  sure,  the  king  then  proposed  sending  the  boy 
again  with  some  of  my  men;  but  this  I objected  to  as  useless, 
considering  the  boy  had  spoken  falsely.  Hearing  this,  the  king 
looked  at  the  boy  and  then  at  the  women  in  turn,  to  ascertain 
what  they  thought  of  my  opinion,  whereupon  the  boy  cried. 
Late  in  the  evening  the  sly  little  girl  Kahala  changed  her  cloth 
wrapper  for  a mbugu,  and  slipped  quietly  away.  I did  not  sus- 
pect her  intention,  because  of  late  she  had  appeared  much  more 
than  ordinarily  happy,  behaving  to  me  in  every  respect  like  a 
dutiful  child  to  a parent.  A search  was  made,  and  guns  fired,  in 
the  hopes  of  frightening  her  back  again,  but  without  effect. 


378 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


1 Oth.  I had  promised  that  this  morning  I would  teach  the  king 
the  art  of  Guinea-fowl  shooting,  and  when  I reached  the  palace  at 
6 A.M.  I found  him  already  on  the  ground.  He  listened  to  the 
tale  of  the  missing  girl,  and  sent  orders  for  her  apprehension  at 
once;  then  proceeding  with  the  gun,  fired  eight  shots  successive- 
ly at  Guinea-birds  sitting  on  trees,  but  missed  them  all.  After 
this,  as  the  birds  were  scared  away,  and  both  iron  shot  and  bul- 
lets were  expended,  he  took  us  to  his  dressing-hut,  went  inside 
himself,  attended  by  full-grown  naked  women,  and  ordered  a 
breakfast  of  pork,  beef,  fish,  and  plantains  to  be  served  me  out- 
side on  the  left  of  the  entrance,  while  a large  batch  of  his  women 
sat  on  the  right  side,  silently  coquetting,  and  amusing  themselves 
by  mimicking  the  white  man  eating.  Poor  little  Lugoi  joined  in 
the  repast,  and  said  he  longed  to  return  to  my  hut,  for  he  was 
half  starved  here,  and  no  one  took  any  notice  of  him;  but  he  was 
destined  to  be  a royal  page,  for  the  king  would  not  part  with 
him.  A cold  fit  then  seized  me,  and  as  I asked  for  leave  to  go, 
the  king  gave  orders  for  one  of  his  wives  to  be  flogged.  The 
reason  for  this  act  of  brutality  I did  not  discover ; but  the  mo- 
ment the  order  was  issued,  the  victim  begged  the  pages  to  do  it 
quickly,  that  the  king’s  wrath  might  be  appeased ; and  in  an  in- 
stant I saw  a dozen  boys  tear  their  cord  turbans  from  their  heads, 
pull  her  roughly  into  the  middle  of  the  court,  and  belabor  her 
with  sticks,  while  she  lay  floundering  about,  screeching  to  me  for 
protection.  All  I did  was  to  turn  my  head  away  and  walk  rap- 
idly out  of  sight,  thinking  it  better  not  to  interfere  again  with  the 
discipline  of  the  palace ; indeed,  I thought  it  not  improbable  that 
the  king  did  these  things  sometimes  merely  that  his  guests  might 
see  his  savage  power.  On  reaching  home  I found  Kahala  stand- 
ing like  a culprit  before  my  door.  She  would  not  admit,  what  I 
suspected,  that  Meri  had  induced  her  to  run  away,  but  said  she 
was  very  happy  in  my  house  until  yester-evening,  when  Eozaro’s 
sister  told  her  she  was  very  stupid  living  with  the  mzungu  all 
alone,  and  told  her -to  run  away;  which  she  did,  taking  the  di- 
rection of  N’yamasore’s,  until  some  officers  finding  her,  and  notic- 
ing beads  on  her  neck,  and  her  hair  cut,  according  to  the  common 
court  fashion,  in  slopes  from  a point  in  the  forehead  to  the  breadth 
of  her  ears,  suspected  her  to  be  one  of  the  king’s  women,  and  kept 
her  in  confinement  all  night,  till  Mtesa’s  men  came  this  morning 
and  brought  her  back  again.  As  a punishment,  I ordered  her  to 
live  with  Bombay ; but  my  house  was  so  dull  again  from  want 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


Mat.] 


379 


of  some  one  to  eat  dinner  with  me,  that  I remitted  the  punish- 
ment, to  her  great  delight. 

11th.  To-day  I received  letters  from  Grant,  dated  the  22d,  25th, 
28th  of  April,  and  2d  of  May.  They  were  brought  by  my  three 
men,  with  Karague  pease,  flour,  and  ammunition.  He  was  at 
Maula’s  house,  which  proved  the  king’s  boy  to  be  correct ; for 
the  convoy,  afraid  of  encountering  the  voyage  on  the  lake,  had 
deceived  my  companion  and  brought  him  on  by  land,  like  true 
negroes. 

12th.  I sent  the  three  men  who  had  returned  from  Grant  to  lay 
a complaint  against  the  convoy,  who  had  tricked  him  out  of  a 
pleasant  voyage,  and  myself  out  of  the  long-wished-for  survey  of 
the  lake.  They  carried  at  the  same  time  a present  of  a canister 
of  shot  from  me  to  the  king.  Delighted  with  this  unexpected 
prize,  he  immediately  shot  fifteen  birds  flying,  and  ordered  the 
men  to  acquaint  me  with  his  prowess. 

13^A.  To-day  the  king  sent  me  four  cows  and  a load  of  butter 
as  a return  present  for  the  shot,  and  allowed  one  of  his  officers,  at 
my  solicitation,  to  go  with  ten  of  my  men  to  help  Grant  on.  He 
also  sent  a message  that  he  had  just  shot  thirteen  birds  flying. 

14dh.  Mabruki  and  Bilal  returned  with  Budja  and  his  ten  chil- 
dren from  Unyoro,  attended  by  a deputation  of  four  men  sent  by 
Kamrasi,  who  were  headed  by  Kidgwiga.  Mtesa,  it  now  trans- 
pired, had  followed  my  advice  of  making  friendship  with  Kam- 
rasi by  sending  two  brass  wires  as  a bongo  instead  of  an ' army, 
and  Kamrasi,  in  return,  sent  him  two  elephant  tusks.  Kidgwiga 
said  Petherick’s  party  was  not  in  Hnyoro;  they  had  never  reached 
there,  but  were  lying  at  anchor  off  Gani.  Two  white  men  only 
had  been  seen — one,  they  said,  a hairy  man,  the  other  smooth- 
faced.; they  were  as  anxiously  inquiring  after  us  as  we  were  after 
them : they  sat  on  chairs,  dressed  like  myself,  and  had  guns  and 
every  thing  precisely  like  those  in  my  hut.  On  one  occasion 
they  sent  up  a necklace  of  beads  to  Kamrasi,  and  he,  in  return, 
gave  them  a number  of  women  and  tusks.  If  I wished  to  go 
that  way,  Kamrasi  would  forward  me  on  to  their  position  in 
boats;  for  the  land  route,  leading  through  Kidi,  was  a jungle  of 
ten  days,  tenanted  by  a savage  set  of  people,  who  hunt  every 
body,  and  seize  every  thing  they  see. 

This  tract  is  sometimes,  however,  traversed  by  the  Wanyoro 
and  Gani  people,  who  are  traders  in  cows  and  tippet  monkey- 
skins,  stealthily  traveling  at  night ; but  they  seldom  attempt  it, 


380 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


from  fear  of  being  murdered.  Baraka  and  Uledi,  sent  from  Kara- 
gub  on  the  30th  of  January,  had  been  at  Kamrasi’s  palace  up- 
ward of  a month,  applying  for  the  road  to  Gani,  and  as  they 
could  not  get  that,  wished  to  come  with  Mabruki  to  me;  but  this 
Kamrasi  also  refused,  on  the  plea  that,  as  they  had  come  from 
Karague,  so  they  must  return  there.  Kamrasi  had  heard  of  my 
shooting  with  Mtesa,  as  also  of  the  attempt  made  by  Mabruki  and 
[Jledi  to  reach  Gani  via  Usoga.  lie  had  received  my  present  of 
beads  from  Baraka,  and,  in  addition,  took  Uledi’s  sword,  saying, 
“ If  you  do  not  wish  to  part  with  it,  you  must  remain  a prisoner 
in  my  country  all  your  life,  for  you  have  not  paid  your  footing.” 
Mabruki  then  told  me  he  was  kept  waiting  at  a village,  one  hour’s 
walk  from  Kamrasi’s  palace,  five  days  before  they  were  allowed 
to  approach  his  majesty;  but  when  they  were  seen,  and  the  pres- 
ents exchanged,  they  were  ordered  to  pack  off  the  following 
morning,  as  Kamrasi  said  the  Waganda  were  a set  of  plundering 
blackguards. 

This  information,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  was  very  embarrassing 
— a mixture  of  good  and  bad.  Petherick,  I now  felt  certain,  was 
on  the  look-out  for  us ; but  his  men  had  reached  Kamrasi’s,  and 
returned  again  before  Baraka’s  arrival.  Baraka  was  not  allowed 
to  go  on  to  him  and  acquaint  him  of  our  proximity,  and  the  Wa- 
ganda were  so  much  disliked  in  Unyoro  that  there  seemed  no 
hopes  of  our  ever  being  able  to  communicate  by  letter.  To  add 
to  my  embarrassments,  Grant  had  not  been  able  to  survey  the 
lake  from  Kitangule,  nor  had  Usoga  and  the  eastern  side  of  the 
lake  been  seen. 

15 ih.  I was  still  laid  up  with  the  cold  fit  of  the  10th,  which 
turned  into  a low  kind  of  fever.  I sent  Bombay  to  the  king  to 
tell  him  the  news,  and  ask  him  what  he  thought  of  doing  next. 
He  replied  that  he  would  push  for  Gani  direct,  and  sent  back  a 
pot  of  pombb  for  the  sick  man. 

16  A.  The  king  to-day  inquired  after  my  health,  and,  strange  to 
say,  did  not  accompany  his  message  with  a begging  request. 

17  th.  My  respite,  however,  was  not  long.  At  the  earliest  pos- 
sible hour  in  the  morning  the  king  sent  begging  for  things  one 
hundred  times  refused,  supposing,  apparently,  that  I had  some 
little  reserve  store  which  I wished  to  conceal  from  him. 

18 th  and  19 ih.  I sent  Bombay  to  the  palace  to-  beg  for  pombe, 
as  it  was  the  only  thing  I had  an  appetite  for,  but  the  king  would 
see  no  person  but  myself.  He  had  broken  his  rifle  washing-rod, 


THE  KING  OF  UGANDA  REVIEWING  TROOPS, 


Mat.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


383 


and  this  must  be  mended,  the  pages  who  brought  it  saying  that 
no  one  dared  take  it  back  to  him  until  it  was  repaired.  A 
Guinea-fowl  was  sent  after  dark  for  me  to  see,  as  a proof  that  the 
king  was  a sportsman  complete. 

20th.  The  king,  going  out  shooting,  borrowed  my  powder-horn. 
The  Wanguana  mobbed  the  hut  and  bullied  me  for  food,  merely 
because  they  did  not  like  the  trouble  of  helping  themselves  from 
the  king’s  garden,  though. they  knew  I had  purchased  their  priv- 
ilege to  do  so  at  the  price  of  a gold  chronometer  and  the  best 
guns  England  could  produce. 

21st.  I now,  for  the  first  time,  saw  the  way  in  which  the  king- 
collected  his  army  together.  The  high  roads  were  all  thronged 
with  Waganda  warriors,  painted  in  divers  colors,  with  plantain- 
leaf  bands  round  their  heads,  scanty  goatskin  fastened  to  their 
loins,  and  spears  and  shield  in  their  hands,  singing  the  tambure 
or  march,  ending  with  a repetition  of  the  word  mkavia,  or  monarch. 
They  surpassed  in  number,  according  to  Bombay,  the  troops  and 
ragamuffins  enlisted  by  Sultan  Majid  when  Sayyid  Sweni  threat- 
ened to  attack  Zanzibar ; in  fact,  he  never  saw  such  a large  army 
collected  any  where. 

Bombay,  on  going  to  the  palace,  hoping  to  obtain  plantains  for 
the  men,  found  the  king  holding  a levbe,  for  the  purpose  of  dis- 
patching this  said  army  somewhere,  but  where  no  one  would  pro- 
nounce. The  king  then,  observing  my  men  who  had  gone  to 
Unyoro  together  with  Kamrasi’s,  questioned  them  on  their  mis- 
sion ; and  when  told  that  no  white  men  were  there,  he  waxed 
wrathful,  and  said  it  was  a falsehood,  for  his  men  had  seen  them, 
and  could  not  be  mistaken.  Ivamrasi,  he  said,  must  have  hidden 
them  somewhere,  fearful  of  the  number  of  guns  which  now  sur- 
rounded him ; and,  for  the  same  reason,  he  told  lies — yes,  lies ; 
but  no  man  living  shall  dare  tell  himself  lies ; and  now,  as  he 
could  not  obtain  his  object  by  fair  means,  he  would  use  arms  and 
force  it  out.  Then  turning  to  Bombay,  he  said,  “ What  does 
your  master  think  of  this  business?”  upon  which  Bombay  re- 
plied, according  to  his  instructions,  “Bana  wishes  nothing  done 
until  Grant  arrives,  when  all  will  go  together.”  On  this  the 
king  turned  his  back  and  walked  away. 

22 cl.  Kitunzi  called  on  me  early,  because  he  heard  I was  sick. 
I asked  him  why  the  Waganda  objected  to  my  sitting  on  a chair; 
but,  to  avoid  the  inconvenience  of  answering  a troublesome  ques- 
tion, without  replying,  he  walked  off,  saying  he  heard  a noise  in 


384 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


the  neighborhood  of  the  palace  which  must  be  caused  by  the  king 
ordering  some  persons  to  be  seized,  and  his  presence  was  so  neces- 
sary he  could  not  wait  another  moment.  My  men  went  for  plan- 
tains to  the  palace  and  for  pombe  on  my  behalf;  but  the  king, 
instead  of  giving  them  any  thing,  took  two  fez  caps  off  their 
heads,  keeping  them  to  himself,  and  ordered  them  to  tell  Bana  all 
his  beer  was  done. 

23 d.  Kidgwiga  called  on  me  to  say  Kamrasi  so  very  much 
wanted  the  white  men  at  Gani  to  visit  him,  he  had  sent  a hongo 
of  thirty  tusks  to  the  chief  of  that  country  in  hopes  that  it  would 
insure  their  coming  to  see  him.  He  also  felt  sure  if  I went  there 
his  king  would  treat  me  with  the  greatest  respect.  This  afforded 
an  opportunity  for  putting  in  a word  of  reconciliation.  I said 
that  it  was  at  my  request  that  Mtesa  sent  Kamrasi  a present;  and 
so  now,  if  Kamrasi  made  friends  with  the  Waganda,  there  would 
be  no  difficulty  about  the  matter. 

24 th.  The  army  still  thronged  the  highways,  some  going,  oth- 
ers coming,  like  a swarm  of  ants,  the  whole  day  long.  Kidgwiga 
paid  another  visit,  and  I went  to  the  palace  without  my  gun, 
wishing  the  king  to  fancy  all  my  powder  was  done,  as  he  had 
nearly  consumed  all  my  store;  but  the  consequence  was  that, 
after  waiting  the  whole  day,  I never  saw  him  at  all.  In  the  even- 
ing pages  informed  me  that  Grant  had  arrived  at  N’yama  Goma, 
one  march  only  distant. 

2 oth.  I prepared  twenty  men,  with  a quarter  of  mutton  for 
Grant  to  help  him  on  the  way,  but  they  could  not  go  without  a 
native  officer,  lest  they  should  be  seized,  and  no  officer  would  lead 
the  way.  The  king  came  shooting  close  to  my  hut  and  ordered 
me  out.  I found  him  marching  Rozaro  about  in  custody  with 
four  other  Wanyambo,  who,  detected  plundering  by  Kitunzi,  had 
set  upon  and  beaten  him  severely.  The  king,  pointing  them  out 
to  me,  said  he  did  not  like  the  system  of  plundering,  and  wished 
to  know  if  it  was  the  practice  in  Karague.  Of  course  I took  the 
opportunity  to  renew  my  protest  against  the  plundering  system; 
but  the  king,  changing  the  subject,  told  me  the  wazungu  were  at 
Gani  inquiring  after  us,  and  wishing  to  come  here.  To  this  I 
proposed  fetching  them  myself  in  boats,  but  he  objected,  saying 
he  would  send  men  first,  for  they  were  not  farther  off  to  the  north- 
ward than  the  place  he  sent  boats  to  to  bring  Grant.  He  said  he 
did  not  like  Unyoro,  because  Kamrasi  hides  himself  like  a Nep- 
tune in  the  Nile  whenever  his  men  go  on  a visit  there,  and  in- 


May.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


385 


stead  of  treating  his  guests  with  respect,  he  keeps  them  beyond 
the  river.  For  this  reason  he  had  himself  determined  on  adopt- 
ing the  passage  by  Kidi. 

I was  anxious,  of  course,  to  go  on  with  the  subject  thus  unex- 
pectedly opened,  but,  as  ill  luck  would  have  it,  an  adjutant  was 
espied  sitting  on  a tree,  when  a terrible  fuss  and  excitement  en- 
sued. The  women  were  ordered  one  way  and  the  attendants  an- 
other, while  I had  to  load  the  gun  in  the  best  way  I could  with 
the  last  charge  and  a half  left  in  the  king’s  pouch.  Ten  grains 
were  all  he  would  have  allowed  himself,  reserving  the  residue, 
without  reflecting  that  a large  bird  required  much  shot ; and  he 
was  shocked  to  find  me  lavishly  use  the  whole,  and  still  say  it 
was  not  enough. 

The  bird  was  then  at  a great  height,  so  that  the  first  shot  mere- 
ly tickled  him,  and  drove  him  to  another  tree.  “Woh!  woh!” 
cried  the  king ; “ I am  sure  he  is  hit ; look  there,  look  there 
and  away  he  rushed  after  the  bird ; down  with  one  fence,  then 
with  another,  in  the  utmost  confusion,  every  body  trying  to  keep 
his  proper  place,  till  at  last  the  tree  to  which  the  bird  had  flown 
was  reached,  and  then,  with  the  last  charge  of  shot,  the  king  killed 
his  first  nundo.  The  bird,  however,  did  not  fall,  but  lay  like  a 
spread  eagle  in  the  upper  branches.  Wasoga  were  called  to  climb 
the  tree  and  pull  it  down ; while  the  king,  in  ecstasies  of  joy  and 
excitement,  rushed  up  and  down  the  potato-field  like  a mad  bull, 
jumping  and  plunging,  waving  and  brandishing  the  gun  above 
his  head,  while  the  drums  beat,  the  attendants  all  woh-wohed,  and 
the  women,  joining  with  their  lord,  rushed  about  lullalooing  and 
dancing  like  insane  creatures.  Then  began'  congratulations  and 
hand-shakings,  and,  finally,  the  inspection  of  the  bird,  which,  by 
this  time,  the  Wasoga  had  thrown  down.  Ohk  oh!  what  a won- 
der! Its  wings  outspread  reached  farther  than  the  height  of  a 
man ; we  must  go  and  show  it  to  the  brothers.  Even  that  was 
not  enough — we  must  show  it  to  the  mother;  and  away  we  all 
rattled  as  fast  as  our  legs  could  carry  us. 

Arrived  at  the  queen’s  palace,  out  of  respect  to  his  mother,  the 
king  changed  his  European  clothes  for  a white  kidskin  wrapper, 
and  then  walked  in  to  see  her,  leaving  us  waiting  outside.  By 
this  time  . Colonel  Congo w,  in  his  full-dress  uniform,  had  arrived 
in  the  square  outside,  with  his  regiment  drawn  up  in  review  or- 
der. The  king,  hearing  the  announcement,  at  once  came  out  with 
spears  and  shield,  preceded  by  the  bird,  and  took  post,  standing 

B B 


386 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


armed,  by  the  entrance,  encircled  by  bis  staff  all  squatting,  when 
the  adjutant  was  placed  in  the  middle  of  the  company.  Before 
us  was  a large  open  square,  with  the  huts  of  the  queen’s  kamra- 
viona,  or  commander-in-chief  beyond.  The  battalion,  consisting 
of  what  might  be  termed  three  companies,  each  containing  200 
men,  being  drawn  up  on  the  left  extremity  of  the  parade-ground, 
received  orders  to  march  past  in  single  file  from  the  right  of  com- 
panies, at  a long  trot,  and  re-form  again  at  the  other  end  of  the 
square. 

Nothing  conceivable  could  be  more  wild  or  fantastic  than  the 
sight  which  ensued — the  men  all  nearly  naked,  with  goat  or  cat 
skins  depending  from  their  girdles,  and  smeared  with  war  colors 
according  to  the  taste  of  each  individual — one  half  of  the  body 
red  or  black,  the  other  blue,  not  in  regular  order — as,  for  instance, 
one  stocking  would  be  red,  the  other  black,  while  the  breeches 
above  would  be  the  opposite  colors,  and  so  with  the  sleeves  and 
waistcoat.  Every  man  carried  the  same  arms — two  spears  and 
one  shield — held  as  if  approaching  an  enemy,  and  they  thus  moved 
in  three  lines  of  single  rank  and  file,  at  fifteen  to  twenty  paces 
asunder,  with  the  same  high  action  and  elongated  step,  the  ground 
leg  only  being  bent,  to  give  their  strides  the  greater  force.  After 
the  men  had  all  started,  the  captains  of  companies  followed,  even 
more  fantastically  dressed ; and  last  of  all  came  the  great  Colonel 
Congow,  a perfect  Bobinson  Crusoe,  with  his  long  white-haired 
goatskins,  a fiddle-shaped  leather  shield,  tufted  with  white  hair 
at  all  six  extremities,  bands  of  long  hair  tied  below  the  knees,  and 
a magnificent  helmet,  covered  with  rich  beads  of  every  color,  in 
excellent  taste,  surmounted  with  a plume  of  crimson  feathers,  from 
the  centre  of  which  rose  a bent  stem,  tufted  with  goathair.  Next 
they  charged  in  companies  to  and  fro;  and,  finally,  the  senior  of- 
ficers came  charging  at  their  king,  making  violent  professions  of 
faith  and  honesty,  for  which  they  were  applauded.  The  parade 
then  broke  up,  and  all  went  home. 

2 6th.  One  of  King  Mtdsa’s  officers  now  consenting  to  go  to 
N’yama  Gfoma  with  some  of  my  men,  I sent  Grant  a quarter  of 
goat.  The  reply  brought  to  me  was  that  he  was  very  thankful 
for  it;  that  he  cooked  it  and  ate  it  on  the  spot;  and  begged  I 
would  see  the  king,  to  get  him  released  from  that  starving  place. 
Rozaro  was  given  over  to  the  custody  of  Kitiinzi  for  punishment. 
At  the  same  time,  the  queen,  having  heard  of  the  outrages  com- 
mitted against  her  brother  and  women,  commanded  that  neither 


SPEKE  AN I)  GRANT  AT  KING  MTESA’S  LEV&E. 


Mat.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


389 


my  men  nor  any  of  Rozaro’s  should  get  any  more  food  at  the 
palace ; for  as  we  all  came  to  Uganda  in  one  body,  so  all  alike 
were,  by  her  logic,  answerable  for  the  offense.  I called  at  the 
palace  for  explanation,  but  could  not  obtain  admittance  because  I 
would  not  fire  the  gun. 

27th.  The  king  sent  to  say  he  wanted  medicine  to  propitiate 
lightning.  I called  and  described  the  effects  of  a lightning-rod, 
and  tried  to  enter  into  the  Unyoro  business,  wishing  to  go  there 
at  once  myself.  He  objected,  because  he  had  not  seen  Grant,  but 
appointed  an  officer  to  go  through  Unyoro  on  to  Gani,  and  begged 
I would  also  send  men  with  letters.  Our  talk  was  agreeably  in- 
terrupted by  guns  in  the  distance  announcing  Grant’s  arrival,  and 
I took  my  leave  to  welcome  my  friend.  How  we  enjoyed  our- 
selves after  so  much  anxiety  and  want  of  one  another’s  company 
I need  not  describe.  For  my  part,  I was  only  too  rejoiced  to  see 
Grant  could  limp  about  a bit,  and  was  able  to  laugh  over  the  pic- 
turesque and  amusing  account  he  gave  me  of  his  own  rough  travels. 

28th.  The  king  in  the  morning  sent  Budja,  his  embassador, 
with  Kamrasi’s  kidgwiga,  over  to  me  for  my  men  and  letters,  to 
go  to  Kamrasi’s  again  and  ask  for  the  road  to  Gani.  I wished  to 
speak  to  the  king  first,  but  they  said  they  had  no  orders  to  stop 
for  that,  and  walked  straight  away.  I sent  the  king  a present  of 
a double-barreled  gun  and  ammunition,  and  received  in  answer  a 
request  that  both  Grant  and  myself  would  attend  a levee,  which 
he  was  to  hold  in  state,  accompanied  by  his  body-guard,  as  when 
I was  first  presented  to  him.  In  the  afternoon  we  proceeded  to 
court  accordingly,  but  found  it  scantily  attended ; and  after  the 
first  sitting,  which  was  speedily  over,  retired  to  another  court,  and 
saw  the  women.  Of  this  dumb  show  the  king  soon  got  tired ; he 
therefore  called  for  the  iron  chair,  and  entered  into  conversation, 
at  first  about  the  ever-engrossing  subject  of  stimulants,  till  we 
changed  it  by  asking  him  how  he  liked  the  gun.  He  pronounced 
it  a famous  weapon,  which  he  would  use  intensely.  We  then  be- 
gan to  talk  in  a general  way  about  Suwarora  and  Rumanika,  as 
well  as  the  road  through  Unyamuezi,  which  we  hoped  would  soon 
cease  to  exist,  and  be  superseded  by  one  through  Unyoro. 

It  will  be  kept  in  view  that  the  hanging  about  at  this  court, 
and  all  the  perplexing  and  irritating  negotiations  here  described, 
had  always  one  end  in  view — that  of  reaching  the  Nile  where  it 
pours  out  of  the  N’yanza,  as  I was  long  certain  that  it  did.  With- 
out the  consent  and  even  the  aid  of  this  capricious  barbarian  I 


890 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


was  now  talking  to,  sucli  a project  was  hopeless.  I naturally 
seized  every  opportunity  for  putting  in  a word  in  the  direction  of 
my  great  object,  and  here  seemed  to  be  an  opportunity.  We 
now  ventured  on  a plump  application  for  boats  that  we  might  feel 
our  way  to  Gani  by  water,  supposing  the  lake  and  river  to  be 
navigable  all  the  way ; and  begged  Kitunzi  might  be  appointed 
to  accompany  us,  in  order  that  whatever  was  done  might  be  done 
all  with  good  effect  in  opening  up  a new  line  of  commerce,  by 
which  articles  of  European  manufacture  might  find  a permanent 
route  to  Uganda.  It  was- “ no  go,”  however.  The  appeal,  though 
listened  to  and  commented  on,  showing  that  it  was  well  under- 
stood, got  no  direct  reply.  It  was  not  my  policy  to  make  our  ob- 
ject appear  too  important  to  ourselves,  so  I had  to  appear  toler- 
ably indifferent,  and  took  the  opportunity  to  ask  for  my  paint- 
box, which  he  had  borrowed  for  a day,  and  had  kept  in  his  pos- 
session for  months.  I got  no  answer  to  that  request  either,  but 
was  immediately  dunned  for  the  compass,  which  had  been  prom- 
ised on  Grant’s  arrival.  Now,  with  a promise  that  the  compass 
would  be  sent  him  in  the  morning,  he  said  he  would  see  what 
pombe  his  women  could  spare  us ; and,  bidding  good  evening, 
walked  away. 

29 ill.  I sent  Bombay  with  the  compass,  much  to  the  delight  of 
the  king,  who  no  sooner  saw  it  than  he  jumped  and  woh-wohed 
with  intense  excitement  at  the  treasure  he  had  gained,  said  it  was 
the  greatest  present  Bana  had  ever  given  him,  for  it  was  the  thing 
by  which  he  found  out  all  the  roads  and  countries  — it  was,  in 
fact,  half  his  knowledge  ; and  the  parting  with  it  showed  plainly 
that  Bana  entertained  an  everlasting  friendship  for  him.  The 
king  then  called  Maula,  and  said,  “ Maula,  indeed  you  have  spoken 
the  truth ; there  is  nothing  like  this  instrument,”  etc.,  etc.,  repeat- 
ing what  he  had  already  told  Bombay.  In  the  evening,  the  king, 
accompanied  by  all  his  brothers,  with  iron  chair  and  box,  came 
to  visit  us,  and  inspected  all  Grant’s  recently  brought  pictures  of 
the  natives  with  great  acclamation.  We  did  not  give  him  any 
thing  this  time,  but,  instead,  dunned  him  for  the  paint-box,  and 
afterward  took  a walk  to  my  observatory  hill,  where  I acted  as 
guide.  On  the  summit  of  this  hill  the  king  instructed  his  broth- 
ers on  the  extent  of  his  dominions ; and  as  I asked  where  Lubai^ 
or  God  resides,  he  pointed  to  the  skies. 

3 0th.  The  king  at  last  sent  the  paint-box,  with  some  birds  of 
his  own  shooting,  which  he  wished  painted.  He  also  wanted  him- 


l 


May- June.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


393 


self  drawn,  and  all  Grant’s  pictures  copied.  Then,  to  wind  up 
these  mild  requests,  a demand  was  made  for  more  powder,  and 
that  all  our  guns  be  sent  to  the  palace  for  inspection. 

31st  I drew  a large  white  and  black  hornbill  and  a green 
pigeon  sent  by  himself ; but  he  was  not  satisfied ; he  sent  more 
birds,  and  wanted  to  see  my  shoes.  The  pages  who  came  with 
the  second  message,  however,  proving  impertinent,  got  a book 
flung  at  their  heads,  and  a warning  to  be  off,  as  -I  intended  to  see 
the  king  myself,  and  ask  for  food  to  keep  my  ever-complaining 
Wanguana  quiet.  Proceeding  to  the  palace,  as  I found  Mtesa 
had  gone  out  shooting,  I called  on  the  kamraviona,  complained 
that  my  camp  was  starving,  and  as  I had  nothing  left  to  give  the 
king,  said  I wished  to  leave  the  country.  Ashamed  of  its  being 
supposed  that  his  king  would  not  give  me  any  food  because  I had 
no  more  presents  to  give  him,  the  kamraviona,  from  his  own 
stores,  gave  me  a goat  and  pombe,  and  said  he  would  speak  to 
the  king  on  the  subject. 

ls£.  I drew  for  the  king  a picture  of  a Guinea-fowl  which  he 
shot  in  the  early  morning,  and  proceeded  on  a visit  with  Grant 
to  the  queen’s,  accompanied  only  by  seven  men,  as  the  rest  pre- 
ferred foraging  for  themselves  to  the  chance  of  picking  up  a few 
plantains  at  her  majesty’s.  After  an  hour’s  waiting,  the  queen 
received  us  with  smiles,  and  gave  pombe  and  plantains  to  her 
new  visitor,  stating  pointedly  she  had  none  for  me.  There  was 
deep  Uganda  policy  in  this : it  was  for  the  purpose  of  treating 
Grant  as  a separate,  independent  person,  and  so  obtaining  a fresh 
hongo  or  tax.  Laughing  at  the  trick,  I thanked  her  for  the  beer, 
taking  it  personally  on  my  household,  and  told  her  when  my 
property  arrived  from  Karague  she  should  have  a few  more 
things  as  I promised  her ; but  the  men  sent  had  neither  brought 
my  brother  in  a vessel,  as  they  were  ordered,  nor  did  they  bring 
my  property  from  Karague. 

Still  the  queen  was  not  content : she  certainly  expected  some- 
thing from  Grant,  if  it  was  ever  so  little,  for  she  was  entitled  to 
it,  and  would  not  listen  to  our  being  one  house.  Turning  the 
subject,  to  put  in  a’ word  for  my  great  object,  I asked  her  to  use 
her  influence  in  opening  the  road  to  Gani,  as,  after  all,  that  was 
the  best  way  to  get  new  things  into  Uganda.  Cunning  as  a fox, 
the  queen  agreed  to  this  project,  provided  Grant  remained  behind, 
for  she  had  not  seen  enough  of  him  yet,  and  she  would  speak  to 
her  son  about  the  matter  in  the  morning. 


394 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


This  was  really  the  first  gleam  of  hope,  and  I set  to  putting 
onr  future  operations  into  a shape  that  might  lead  to  practical  re- 
sults without  alarming  our  capricious  host.  I thought  that  while 
I could  be  employed  in  inspecting  the  river,  and  in  feeling  the 
route  by  water  to  Gani,  Grant  could  return  to  Karague  by  water, 
bringing  up  our  rear  traps,  and,  in  navigating  the  lake,  obtain  the 
information  he  had  been  frustrated  in  getting  by  the  machina- 
tions of  his  attendant  Maribu.  It  was  agreed  to,  and  all  seemed 
well ; for  there  was  much  left  to  be  done  in  Uganda  and  Usoga, 
if  we  could  only  make  sure  of  communicating  once  with  Pethe- 
rick.  Before  going  home  we  had  some  more  polite  conversation, 
during  which  the  queen  played  with  a toy  in  the  shape  of  a cocoa 
du  mer , studded  all  over  with  cowries : this  was  a sort  of  doll,  or 
symbol  of  a baby,  and  her  dandling  it  was  held  to  indicate  that 
she  would  ever  remain  a widow.  In  the  evening  the  king  re- 
turned all  our  rifles  and  guns,  with  a request  for  one  of  them,  as 
also  for  the  iron  chair  he  sat  upon  when  calling  on  us,  an  iron 
bedstead,  and  the  Union  Jack,  for  he  did  not  honor  us  with  a 
visit  for  nothing ; and  the  head  page  was  sent  to  witness  the 
transfer  of  the  goods,  and  see  there  was  no  humbug  about  it.  It 
was  absolutely  necessary  to  get  into  a rage,  and  tell  the  head  page 
we  did  not  come  to  Uganda  to  be  swindled  in  that  manner,  and 
he  might  tell  the  king  I would  not  part  with  one  of  them. 

2d.  K’yengo,  who  came  with  Grant,  now  tried  to  obtain  an  in- 
terview with  the  king,  but  could  not  get  admission.  I had  some 
farther  trouble  about  the  disposal  of  the  child  Meri,  who  said  she 
never  before  had  lived  in  a poor  man’s  house  since  she  was  born. 
I thought  to  content  her  by  offering  to  marry  her  to  one  of  Ru- 
manika’s  sons,  a prince  of  her  own  breed,  but  she  would  not  listen 
to  the  proposal. 

3d.  For  days  past,  streams  of  men  have  been  carrying  fagots 
of  fire-wood,  clean-cut  timber,  into  the  palaces  of  the  king,  queen, 
and  the  kamraviona ; and  to-day,  on  calling  on  the  king,  I found 
him  engaged  having  these  fagots  removed  by  Colonel  Mkavia’s 
regiment  from  one  court  into  another,  this  being  his  way  of  as- 
certaining their  quantity,  instead  of  counting  them.  About  1600 
men  were  engaged  on  this  service,  when  the  king,  standing  on  a 
carpet  in  front  of  the  middle  hut  of  the  first  court,  with  two  spears 
in  his  hand  and  his  dog  by  his  side,  surrounded  by  his  brothers 
and  a large  staff  of  officers,  gave  orders  for  the  regiment  to  run 
to  and  fro  in  column,  that  he  might  see  them  well;  then  turning 


June.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


395 


to  his  staff,  ordered  them  to  run  up  and  down  the  regiment,  and 
see  what  they  thought  of  it.  This  ridiculous  order  set  them  all 
flying,  and  soon  they  returned,  charging  at  the  king  with  their 
sticks,  dancing  and  jabbering  that  their  numbers  were  many,  he 
was  the  greatest  king  on  earth,  and  their  lives  and  services  were 
his  forever.  The  regiment  now  received  orders  to  put  down  their 
fagots,  and,  taking  up  their  own  sticks  in  imitation  of  spears,  fol- 
lowed the  antics  of  their  officers  in  charging  and  vociferating. 
Next,  Mkavia  presented  five  hairy  Usoga  goats,  n’yanzigging  and 
performing  the  other  appropriate  ceremonies.  On  asking  the  king 
if  he  had  any  knowledge  of  the  extent  of  his  army,  he  merely 
said,  “How  can  I,  when  these  you  see  are  a portion  of  them  just 
ordered  here  to  carry  wood  ?” 

The  regiment  was  now  dismissed ; but  the  officers  were  invited 
to  follow  the  king  into  another  court,  when  he  complimented 
them  on  assembling  so  many  men ; they,  instead  of  leaving  well 
alone,  foolishly  replied  they  were  sorry  they  were  not  more  nu- 
merous, as  some  of  the  men  lived  so  far  away  they  shirked  the 
summons ; Maula  then,  ever  forward  in  mischief,  put  a cap  on  it 
by  saying,  if  he  could  only  impress  upon  the  Waganda  to  listen 
to  his  orders  there  would  never  be  a deficiency.  Upon  which 
the  king  said,  “If  they  fail  to  obey  you,  they  disobey  me;  for  I 
have  appointed  you  as  my  orderly,  and  thereby  you  personify 
the  orders  of  the  king.”  Up  jumped  Maiila  in  a moment  as  soon 
as  these  words  were  uttered,  charging  with  his  stick,  then  flounder- 
ing and  n’yanzigging  as  if  he  had  been  signally  rewarded.  I ex- 
pected some  piece  of  cruel  mischief  to  come  of  all  this,  but  the 
king,  in  his  usual  capricious  way,  suddenly  rising,  walked  off  to 
a third  court,  followed  only  by  a select  few. 

Here,  turning  to  me,  he  said,  “ Bana,  I love  you,  because  you 
have  come  so  far  to  see  me,  and  have  taught  me  so  many  things 
since  you  have  been  here.”  Rising,  with  my  hand  to  my  heart, 
and  gracefully  bowing  at  this  strange  announcement — for  at  that 
moment  I was  full  of  hunger  and  wrath — I intimated  I was  much 
flattered  at  hearing  it,  but  as  my  house  was  in  a state  of  starva- 
tion, I trusted  he  would  consider  it.  “ What !”  said  he,  “ do  you 
want  goats?”  “Yes,  very  much.”  The  pages  then  received  or- 
ders to  furnish  me  with  ten  that  moment,  as  the  king’s  farm-yard 
was  empty,  and  he  would  reimburse  them  as  soon  as  more  con- 
fiscations took  place.  But  this,  I said,  was  not  enough ; the 
Wanguana  wanted  plantains,  for  they  had  received  none  these 


396 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


fifteen  days.  “What!”  said  the  king,  turning  to  his  pages  again, 
“have  you  given  these  men  no  plantains,  as  I ordered?  Go  and 
fetch  them  this  moment,  and  pombe  too,  for  Bana.” 

The  subject  then  turned  on  the  plan  I had  formed  of  going  to 
Gani  by  water,  and  of  sending  Grant  to  Karague  by  the  lake ; but 
the  king’s  mind  was  fully  occupied  with  the  compass  I had  given 
him.  He  required  me  to  explain  its  use,  and  then  broke  up  the 
meeting. 

4 th.  Viarungi,  an  officer  sent  by  Rumanika  to  escort  Grant  to 
Uganda,  as  well  as  to  apply  to  King  Mtesa  for  a force  to  fight  his 
brother  Rogdro,  called  on  me  with  Rozaro,  and  said  he  had  re- 
ceived instructions  from  his  king  to  apply  to  me  for  forty  cows 
and  two  slave-boys,  because  the  Arabs  who  pass  through  his 
country  to  Uganda  always  make  him  a present  of  that  sort  after 
receiving  them  from  Mtesa.  After  telling  him  we  English  never 
give  the  presents  they  have  received  away  to  any  one,  and  never 
make  slaves,  but  free  them,  I laid  a complaint  against  Rozaro  for 
having  brought  much  trouble  and  disgrace  upon  my  camp,  as 
well  as  much  trouble  on  myself,  and  begged  that  he  might  be  re- 
moved from  my  camp.  Rozaro  then  attempted  to  excuse  himself, 
but  without  success,  and  said  he  had  already  detached  his  resi- 
dence from  my  camp,  and  taken  up  a separate  residence  with  Vi- 
arungi, his  superior  officer. 

I called  on  the  king  in  the  afternoon,  and  found  the  pages  had 
already  issued  plantains  for  my  men  and  pombe  for  myself.  The 
king  addressed  me  with  great  cordiality,  and  asked  if  I wished  to 
go  to  Gani.  I answered  him  with  all  promptitude,  “Yes,  at  once, 
with  some  of  his  officers  competent  to  judge  of  the  value  of  all  I 
point  out  to  them  for  future  purposes  in  keeping  the  road  perma- 
nently open.  His  provoking  capriciousness,  however,  again  broke 
in,  and  he  put  me  off  till  his  messengers  should  return  from  Un- 
yoro.  I told  him  his  men  had  gone  in  vain,  for  Budja  left  with- 
out my  letter  or  my  men ; and,  farther,  that  the  river  route  is  the 
only  one  that  will  ever  be  of  advantage  to  Uganda,  and  the  sooner 
it  was  opened  up  the  better.  I entreated  him  to  listen  to  my  ad- 
vice, and  send  some  of  my  men  to  Kamrasi  direct,  to  acquaint 
him  with  my  intention  to  go  down  the  river  in  boats  to  him ; but 
I could  get  no  answer  to  this.  Bombay  then  asked  for  cows  for 
the  Wanguana,  getting  laughed  at  for  his  audacity,  and  the  king 
broke  up  the  court  and  walked  away. 

5 th.  I started  on  a visit  to  the  queen,  but  half  way  met  Con- 


June.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


397 


go w,  who  informed  me  he  had  just  escorted  her  majesty  from  his 
house,  where  she  was  visiting,  to  her  palace.  By  way  of  a joke 
and  feeler,  I took  it  in  my  head  to  try,  by  taking  a harmless  rise 
out  of  Congow,  whether  the  Nile  is  understood  by  the  natives  to 
be  navigable  near  its  exit  from  the  N’yanza.  I told  him  he  had 
been  appointed  by  the  king  to  escort  us  down  the  river  to  Gani. 
He  took  the  affair  very  seriously,  delivering  himself  to  the  follow- 
ing purport:  “Well,  then,  my  days  are  numbered,  for  if  I refuse 
compliance  I shall  lose  my  head ; and  if  I attempt  to  pass  Kam- 
rasi’s,  which  is  on  the  river,  I shall  lose  my  life,  for  I am  a marked 
man  there,  having  once  led  an  army  past  his  palace  and  back 
again.  It  would  be  no  use  calling  it  a peaceful  mission,  as  you 
propose,  for  the  Wanyoro  distrust  the  Waganda  to  such  an  extent, 
they  would  fly  to  arms  at  once.” 

Proceeding  to  the  queen’s  palace,  we  met  Murondo,  who  had 
once  traveled  to  the  Masai  frontier.  He  said  it  would  take  a 
month  to  go  in  boats  from  Kira,  the  most  easterly  district  in 
Uganda,  to  Masai,  where  there  is  another  N’yanza,  joined  by  a 
strait  to  the  big  N’yanza,  which  King  Mtesa’s  boats  frequent  for 
salt ; but  the  same  distance  could  be  accomplished  in  four  days 
overland,  and  three  days  afterward  by  boat.  The  queen,  after 
keeping  us  all  day  waiting,  sent  three  bunches  of  plantains  and  a 
pot  of  pombd,  with  a message  that  she  was  too  tired  to  receive 
visitors,  and  hoped  we  would  call  another  day. 

6th.  I met  Pokino,  the  governor  general  of  Uddu,  in  the  morn- 
ing’s walk,  who  came  here  at  the  same  time  as  Grant  to  visit  the 
king,  and  was  invited  into  his  house  to  drink  pombe.  His  badge 
of  office  is  an  iron  hatchet,  inlaid  with  copper  and  handled  with 
ivory.  He  wished  to  give  us  a cow,  but  put  it  off  for  another 
day,  and  was  surprised  we  dared  venture  into  his  premises  with- 
out permission  from  the  king.  After  this  we  called  at  the  palace, 
just  as  the  king  was  returning  from  a walk  with  his  brothers. 
He  saw  us,  and  sent  for  Bana.  We  entered,  and  presented  him 
with  some  pictures,  which  he  greatly  admired,  looked  at  close  and 
far,  showed  to  the  brothers,  and  inspected  again.  Pokino  at  this 
time  came  in  with  a number  of  well-made  shields,  and  presented 
them  groveling  and  n’yanzigging ; but,  though  the  governor  of 
an  important  province,  who  had  not  been  seen  by  the  king  for 
years,  he  was  taken  no  more  notice  of  than  any  common  mkungu. 
A plan  of  the  lake  and  Nile,  which  I brought  with  me  to  explain 
our  projects  for  reaching  Karagud  and  Gani,  engaged  the  king’s 


898 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[18G2. 


attention  for  a while,  but  still  he  would  not  agree  to  let  any  thing 
be  done  until  his  messenger  returned  from  Unyoro.  Finding  him 
inflexible,  I proposed  sending  a letter,  arranging  that  his  men 
should  be  under  the  guidance  of  my  men  after  they  pass  Unyoro 
on  the  way  to  Gani ; and  this  was  acceded  to,  provided  I should 
write  a letter  to  Petherick  by  the  morrow.  I then  tried  to  teach 
the  king  the  use  of  the  compass.  To  make  a stand  for  it,  I turn- 
ed a drum  on  its  head,  when  all  the  courtiers  flew  at  me  as  if  to 
prevent  an  outrage,  and  the  king  laughed.  I found  that,  as  the 
instrument  was  supposed  to  be  a magic  charm  of  very  wonderful 
powers,  my  meddling  with  it  and  treating  it  as  an  ordinary  mov- 
able was  considered  a kind  of  sacrilege. 

7 th.  I wrote  a letter  to  Petherick,  but  the  promised  wakungu 
never  came  for  it.  As  K’yengo  was  ordered  to  attend  court  with 
Rumanika’s  hongo,  consisting  of  a few  wires,  small  beads,  and  a 
cloth  I gave  him,  as  well  as  a trifle  from  ISTnanaji,  I sent  Bombay, 
in  place  of  going  myself,  to  remind  the  king  of  his  promises  for  ' 
the  wakungu  to  Gani,  as  well  as  for  boats  to  Karague,  but  a grunt 
was  the  only  reply  which  my  messenger  said  he  obtained. 

8 th.  Calling  at  the  palace,  I found  the  king  issuing  for  a walk, 
and  joined  him,  when  he  suddenly  turned  round  in  the  rudest 
manner,  re-entered  his  palace,  and  left  me  to  go  home  without 
speaking  a word.  The  capricious  creature  then  reissued,  and, 
finding  me  gone,  inquired  after  me,  presuming  I ought  to  have 
waited  for  him. 

9 th.  During  the  night,  when  sleeping  profoundly,  some  person 
stealthily  entered  my  hut  and  ran  off  with  a box  of  bullets  toward 
the  palace,  but  on  the  way  dropped  his  burden.  Maula,  on  the 
way  home,  happening  to  see  it,  and  knowing  it  must  be  mine, 
brought  it  back  again.  I staid  at  home,  not  feeling  well. 

10th.  K’yengo  paid  his  hongo  in  wire  to  the  king,  and  received 
a return  of  six  cows.  Still  at  home,  an  invalid,  I received  a visit 
from  Meri,  who  seemed  to  have  quite  recovered  herself.  Speak- 
ing of  her  present  quarters,  she  said  she  loved  Uledi’s  wife  very 
much,  thinking  birds  of  a feather  ought  to  live  together.  She 
helped  herself  to  a quarter  of  mutton,  and  said  she  would  come 
again. 

11  th.  To-day  Viarungi,  finding  Rozaro’s  men  had  stolen  thirty 
cows,  twelve  slaves,  and  a load  of  mbugu  from  the  Waganda,  laid 
hands  on  them  himself  for  Rumanika,  instead  of  giving  them  to 
King  Mtesa.  Such  are  the  daily  incidents  among  our  neighbors. 


June.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


399 


12 th.  At  night  a bos  of  ammunition  and  a bag  of  shot,  which 
were  placed  out  as  a reserve  present  for  the  king,  to  be  given  on 
our  departure,  were  stolen,  obviously  by  the  king’s  boys,  and 
most  likely  by  the  king’s  orders,  for  he  is  the  only  person  who 
could  have  made  any  use  of  them,  and  his  boys  alone  know  the 
way  into  the  hut;  besides  which,  the  previous  box  of  bullets  was 
found  on  the  direct  road  to  the  palace,  while  it  was  well  known 
that  no  one  dared  to  touch  an  article  of  European  manufacture 
without  the  consent  of  the  king. 

13 th.  I sent  a message  to  the  king  about  the  theft,  requiring 
him,  if  an  honest  man,  to  set  his  detectives  to  work  and  ferre.t  it 
out;  his  boys,  at  the  same  time,  to  show  our  suspicions,  were 
peremptorily  forbidden  ever  to  enter  the  hut  again.  Twice  the 
king  sent  down  a hasty  message  to  say  he  was  collecting  all  his 
men  to  make  a search,  and,  if  they  do  not  succeed,  the  mganga 
would  be  sent;  but  nothing  was  done.  The  kamraviona  was 
sharply  rebuked  by  the  king  for  allowing  K’yengo  to  visit  him 
before  permission  was  given,  and  thus  defrauding  the  royal  ex- 
chequer of  many  pretty  things,  which  were  brought  for  majesty 
alone.  At  night  the  rascally  boys  returned  again  to  plunder,  but 
Kahala,  more  wakeful  than  myself,  heard  them  trying  to  untie 
the  door-handle,  and  frightened  them  away  in  endeavoring  to 
awaken  me. 

14 tli  and  15 th.  Grant,  doing  duty  for  me,  tried  a day’s  penance 
at  the  palace;  but,  though  he  sat  all  day  in  the  antechamber,  and 
musicians  were  ordered  into  the  presence,  nobody  called  for  him. 
K’yengo  was  sent  with  all  his  men  on  - a wakungu-seizing  expe- 
dition— a good  job  for  him,  as  it  was  his  perquisite  to  receive  the 
major  part  of  the  plunder  himself. 

1 6th.  I sent  Kahala  out  of  the  house,  giving  her  finally  over  to 
^Bombay  as  a wife,  because  she  preferred  playing  with  dirty  little 
children  to  behaving  like  a young  lady,  and  had  caught  the  itch. 
This  was  much  against  her  wish,  and  the  child  vowed  she  would 
not  leave  me  until  force  compelled  her;  but  I had  really  no  other 
way  of  dealing  with  the  remnant  of  the  awkward  burden  which 
the  queen’s  generosity  had  thrown  on  me.  K’yengo  went  to  the 
palace  with  fifty  prisoners;  but  as  the  king  had  taken  his  women 
to  the  small  pond,  where  he  has  recently  placed  a tub  canoe  for 
purposes  of  amusement,  they  did  no  business. 

17 th.  I took  a first  convalescent  walk.  The  king,  who  was 
out  shooting  all  day,  begged  for  powder  in  the  evening.  Uledi 


400  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [1862. 

returned  from  his  expedition  against  a recusant  officer  at  Kituntu, 
bringing  with  him  a spoil  of  ten  women.  It  appeared  that  the 
officer  himself  had  bolted  from  his  landed  possessions,  and  as  they 
belonged  to  “ the  Church,”  or  were  in  some  way  or  other  sacred 
from  civil  execution,  they  could  not  be  touched,  so  that  Uledi  lost 
an  estate  which  the  king  had  promised  him.  We  heard  that 
Ilmas,  wife  of  Majanja,  who,  as  I already  mentioned,  had  achieved 
an  illustrious  position  by  services  at  the  birth  of  the  king,  had 
been  sent  to  visit  the  late  king  Sunna’s  tomb,  whence,  after  ob- 
serving certain  trees  which  were  planted,  and  divining  by  mystic 
arts  what  the  future  state  of  Uganda  required,  she  would  return 
at  a specific  time,  to  order  the  king  at  the  time  of  his  coronation 
either  to  take  the  field  with  an  army,  to  make  a pilgrimage,  or  to 
live  a life  of  ease  at  home ; whichever  of  these  courses  the  influ- 
ence of  the  ordeal  at  the  grave  might  prompt  her  to  order  must 
be  complied  with  by  the  king. 

18th.  I called  at  the  palace  with  Grant,  taking  with  us  some 
pictures  of  soldiers,  horses,  elephants,  etc.  We  found  the  guard 
fighting  over  their  beef  and  plantain  dinner.  Bombay  remarked 


that  this  daily  feeding  on  beef  would  be  the  lot  of  the  W anguana 
if  they  had  no  religious  scruples  about  the  throat-cutting  of  ani- 


Palace  Guards  at  Dinner— Uganda. 


June.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


401 


mals  for  food.  This,  I told  him,  was  all  their  own  fault,  for  they 
have  really  no  religion  or  opinions  of  their  own ; and  had  they 
been  brought  up  in  England  instead  of  Africa,  it  would  have  been 
all  the  other  way  with  them  as  a matter  of  course ; but  Bombay 
replied,  “We  could  no  more  throw  off  the  Mussulman  faith  than 
you  could  yours.”  A man  with  a maniacal  voice  sang  and 
whistled  by  turns.  Katumba,  the  officer  of  the  guard,  saw  our 
pictures,  and,  being  a favorite,  acquainted  the  king,  which  gained 
us  an  admittance. 

We  found  his  majesty  sitting  on  the  ground,  within  a hut,  be- 
hind a portal,  encompassed  by  his  women,  and  took  our  seats  out- 
side. At  first  all  was  silence,  till  one  told  the  king  we  had  some 
wonderful  pictures  to  show  him,  when  in  an  instant  he  grew  live- 
ly, crying,  “Oh,  let  us  see  them!”  and  they  were  shown,  Bombay 
explaining.  Three  of  the  king’s  wives  then  came  in,  and  offered 
him  their  two  virgin  sisters,  n’yanzigging  incessantly,  and  be- 
seeching their  acceptance,  as  by  that  means  they  themselves  would 
become  doubly  related  to  him.  Nothing,  however,  seemed  to  be 
done  to  promote  the  union,  until  one  old  lady,  sitting  by  the 
king’s  side,  who  was  evidently  learned  in  the  etiquette  and  tra- 
ditions of  the  court,  said,  “Wait  and  see  if  he  embraces,  otherwise 
you  may  know  he  is  not  pleased.”  At  this  announcement  the 
girls  received  a hint  to  pass  on,  and  the  king  commenced  bestow- 
ing on  them  a series  of  huggings,  first  sitting  on  the  lap  of  one, 
whom  he  clasped  to  his  bosom,  crossing  his  neck  with  hers  to  the 
right,  then  to  the  left,  and,  having  finished  with  her,  took  post  in 
the  second  one’s  lap,  then  on  that  of  the  third,  performing  on  each 
of  them  the  same  evolutions.  He  then  retired  to  his  original 
position,  and  the  marriage  ceremony  was  supposed  to  be  con- 
cluded, and  the  settlements  adjusted,  when  all  went  on  as  be- 
fore. 

The  pictures  were  again  looked  at  and  again  admired,  when 
we  asked  for  a private  interview  on  business,  and  drew  the  king 
outside.  I then  begged  he  would  allow  me,  while  his  men  were 
absent  at  Unyoro,  to  go  to  the  Masai  country,  and  see  the  Salt 
Lake  at  the  northeast  corner  of  the  N’yanza,  and  to  lend  me  some 
of  his  boats  for  Grant  to  fetch  powder  and  beads  from  Karague. 
This  important  arrangement  being  conceded  by  the  king  more 
promptly  than  we  expected,  a cow,  plantains,  and  pombe  were  re- 
quested ; but  the  cow  only  was  given,  though  our  men  were  said 
to  be  feeding  on  grass.  Taking  the  king,  as  it  appeared,  in  a 

C c 


402 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


good  humor,  to  show  him  the  abuses  arising  from  the  system  of 
allowing  his  guests  to  help  themselves  by  force  upon  the  high- 
ways, I reported  the  late  seizures  made  of  thirty  cows  and  twelve 
slaves  by  the  Wanyambo;  but,  though  surprised  to  hear  the  news, 
he  merely  remarked  that  there  were  indeed  a great  number  of 
visitors  in  Uganda.  During  this  one  day  we  heard  the  sad  voices 
of  no  less  than  four  women,  dragged  from  the  palace  to  the  slaugh- 
ter-house. 

19 tli.  To  follow  up  our  success  in  the  marching  question  and 
keep  the  king  to  his  promise,  I called  at  his  palace,  but  found  he 
had  gone  out  shooting.  To  push  my  object  farther,  I then 
marched  off  to  the  queen’s  to  bid  her  good-by,  as  if  we  were  cer- 
tain to  leave  next  day ; but,  as  no  one  would  dare  to  approach 
her  cabinet  to  apprise  her  of  our  arrival,  we  returned  home  tired 
and  annoyed. 

2 0th.  The  king  sent  for  us  at  noon,  but  when  we  reached  the 
palace  we  found  he  had  started  on  a shooting  tour ; so,  to  make 
the  best  of  our  time,  we  called  again  upon  the  queen  for  the  same 
purpose  as  yesterday,  as  also  to  get  my  books  of  birds  and  ani- 
mals, which,  taken  merely  to  look  at  for  a day  or  so,  had  been 
kept  for  months.  After  hours  of  waiting,  her  majesty  appeared 
standing  in  an  open  gateway,  beckoned  us  to  advance,  and  offered 
pombe ; then,  as  two  or  three  drops  of  rain  fell,  she  said  she  could 
not  stand  the  violence  of  the  weather,  and  forthwith  retired  with- 
out one  word  being  obtained.  An  officer,  however,  venturing  in 
for  the  books,  at  length  I got  them. 

21st.  To-day  I went  to  the  palace,  but  found  no  one ; the  king 
was  out  shooting  again. 

22 d.  We  resolved  to-day  to  try  on  a new  political  influence  at 
the  court.  Grant  had  taken  to  the  court  of  Karague  a jumping- 
jack,  to  amuse  the  young  princes;  but  it  had  a higher  destiny, 
for  it  so  fascinated  King  Rumanika  himself  that  he  would  not 
part  with  it,  unless,  indeed,  Grant  would  make  him  a big  one  out 
of  a tree  which  was  handed  to  him  for  the  purpose.  We  resolved 
to  try  the  influence  of  such  a toy  on  King  Mtesa,  and  brought 
with  us,  in  addition,  a mask  and  some  pictures.  But,  although 
the  king  took  a visiting-card,  the  gate  was  never  opened  to  us. 
Finding  this,  and  the  day  closing,  we  deposited  the  mask  and  pic- 
tures on  a throne,  and  walked  away.  We  found  that  we  had  thus 
committed  a serious  breach  of  state  etiqufette ; for  the  guard,  as 
soon  as  they  saw  what  we  had  done,  seized  the  Wanguana  for 


June.]  PALACE,  UGANDA.  403 

our  offenses  in  defiling  the  royal  seat,  and  would  have  bound 
them  had  they  not  offered  to  return  the  articles  to  us. 

23 cl.  Early  in  the  morning,  hearing  the  royal  procession  march- 
ing, off  on  a shooting  excursion,  we  sent  Bombay  running  after  it 
with  the  mask  and  pictures,  to  acquaint  the  king  with  our  desire 
to  see  him,  and  explain  that  we  had  been  four  days  successively 
foiled  in  attempts  to  find  him  in  his  palace,  our  object  being  an 
eager  wish  to  come  to  some  speedy  understanding  about  the  ap- 
pointed journeys  to  the  Salt  Lake  and  Karague.  The  toys  pro- 
duced the  desired  effect;  for  the  king  stopped  and  played  with 
them,  making  Bombay  and  the  pages  don  the  mask  by  turns. 
He  appointed  the  morrow  for  an  interview,  at  the  same  time  ex- 
cusing himself  for  not  having  seen  us  yesterday  on  the  plea  of 
illness.  In  the  evening  Kahala  absconded  with  another  little  girl 
of  the  camp  in  an  opposite  direction  from  the  one  she  took  last 
time;  but  as  both  of  them  wandered  about  not  knowing  where 
to  go  to,  and  as  they  omitted  to  take  off  all  their  finery,  they  were 
soon  recognized  as  in  some  way  connected  with  my  party,  taken 
up,  and  brought  into  camp,  where  they  were  well  laughed  at  for 
their  folly,  and  laughed  in  turn  at  the  absurdity  of  their  futile 
venture. 

24 th.  Hoping  to  keep  the  king  to  his  promise,  I went  to  the 
palace  early,  but  found  he  had  already  gone  to  see  his  brothers, 
so  followed  him  down,  and  found  him  engaged  playing  on  a har- 
monicon  with  them.  Surprised  at  my  intrusion,  he  first  asked 
how  I managed  to  find  him  out;  then  went  on  playing  for  a 
while;  but  suddenly  stopping  to  talk  with  me,  he  gave  me  an 
opportunity  of  telling  him  I wished  to  send  Grant  off  to  Karague, 
and  start  myself  for  Usoga  and  the  Salt  Lake  in  the  morning. 
“What!  going  away?”  said  the  king,  as  if  he  had  never  heard  a 
word  about  it  before;  and  then,  after  talking  the  whole  subject 
over  again,  especially  dwelling  on  the  quantity  of  powder  I had 
in  store  at  Karague,  he  promised  to  send  the  necessary  officers  for 
escorting  us  on  our  respective  journeys  in  the  morning. 

The  brothers’  wives  then  wished  to  see  me,  and  came  before  us, 
when  I had  to  take  off  my  hat  and  shoes  as  usual,  my  ready  com- 
pliance inducing  the  princes  to  pass  various  compliments  on  my 
person  and  disposition.  The  brothers  then  showed  me  a stool 
made  of  wood  after  the  fashion  of  our  sketching-stool,  and  a gun- 
cover  of  leather,  made  by  themselves,  of  as  good  workmanship  as 
is  to  be  found  in  India.  The  king  then  rose,  followed  by  his 


404 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


brothers,  and  we  all  walked  off  to  the  pond.  The  effect  of  stim- 
ulants was  mooted,  as  well  as  other  physiological  phenomena, 
when  a second  move  took  us  to  the  palace  by  torchlight,  and  the 
king  showed  a number  of  new  huts  just  finished,  and  beautifully 
made.  Finally,  he  settled  down  to  a musical  concert,  in  which  he 
took  the  lead  himself.  At  eight  o’clock,  being  tired  and  hungry, 
I reminded  the  king  of  his  promises,  and  he  appointed  the  morn- 
ing to  call  on  him  for  the  wakungu,  and  took  leave. 

25 th.  Makinga,  hearing  of  the  intended  march  through  Usoga, 
was  pleased  to  say  he  would  like  to  join  my  camp,  and  spend  his 
time  in  buying  slaves  and  ivory  there.  I went  to  the  palace  for 
the  promised  escort,  but  was  no  sooner  announced  by  the  pages 
than  the  king  walked  off  into  the  interior  of  his  harem,  and  left 
me  no  alternative  but  to  try  my  luck  with  the  kamraviona,  who, 
equally  proud  with  his  master,  would  not  answer  my  call,  and  so 
another  day  was  lost. 

26th.  This  morning  we  had  the  assuring  intelligence  from  Kad- 
du  that  he  had  received  orders  to  hold  himself  in  readiness  for  a 
voyage  to  Karague  in  twenty  boats  with  Grant,  but  the  date  of 
departure  was  not  fixed.  The  passage  was  expected  to  be  rough, 
as  the  water  off  the  mouth  of  the  Kitangule  Kagera  (river)  always 
runs  high,  so  that  no  boats  can  go  there  except  at  night,  when  the 
winds  of  the  day  subside,  and  are  replaced  by  the  calms  of  night. 
I called  at  the  palace,  but  saw  nothing  of  the  king,  though  the 
court  was  full  of  officials ; and  there  were  no  less  than  150  wom- 
en, besides  girls,  goats,  and  various  other  things,  seizures  from  re- 
fractory state  officers,  who,  it  was  said,  had  been  too  proud  to  pre- 
sent themselves  at  court  for  a period  exceeding  propriety. 

All  these  creatures,  I was  assured,  would  afterward  be  given 
away  as  return  presents  for  the  hongos  or  presents  received  from 
the  king’s  visitors.  No  wonder  the  tribes  of  Africa  are  mixed 
breeds.  Among  the  officers  in  waiting  was  my  friend  Budja,  the 
embassador  that  had  been  sent  to  Unyoro  with  Kidgwiga,  Kam- 
rasi’s  deputy.  He  had  returned  three  days  before,  but  had  not 
yet  seen  the  king.  As  might  have  been  expected,  he  said  he  had 
been  any  thing  but  welcomed  in  Unyoro.  Kamrasi,  after  keep- 
ing him  half  starved  and  in  suspense  eight  days,  sent  a message — 
for  he  would  not  see  him — that  he  did  not  desire  any  communi- 
cation with  blackguard  Waganda  thieves,  and  therefore  advised 
him,  if  he  valued  his  life,  to  return  by  the  road  by  which  he  came 
as  speedily  as  possible.  Turning  to  Congow,  I playfully  told  him 


June.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


405 


that,  as  the  road  through  Unyoro  was  closed,  he  would  have  to  go 
with  me  through  Usoga  and  Kidi ; but  the  gallant  colonel  mere- 
ly shuddered,  and  said  that  would  be  a terrible  undertaking. 

27th.  The  king  would  not  show,  for  some  reason  or  other,  and 
we  still  feared  to  fire  guns,  lest  he  should  think  our  store  of  pow- 
der inexhaustible,  and  so  keep  us  here  until  he  had  extorted  the 
last  of  it.  I found  that  the  W aganda  have  the  same  absurd  no- 
tion here  as  the  Wanyarnbo  have  in  Karague  of  Kamrasi’s  super- 
natural power  in  being  able  to  divide  the  waters  of  the  Nile  in 
the  same  manner  as  Moses  did  the  Red  Sea. 

28th.  The  king  sent  a messenger-boy  to  inform  us  that  he  had 
just  heard  from  Unyoro  that  the  white  men  were  still  at  Gani  in- 
quiring after  us ; but  nothing  was  said  of  Budja’s  defeat.  I sent 
Bombay  immediately  off  to  tell  him  we  had  changed  our  plans, 
and  now  simply  required  a large  escort  to  accompany  us  through 
Usoga  and  Kidi  to  Gani,  as  farther  delay  in  communicating  with 
Petherick  might  frustrate  all  chance  of  opening  the  Nile  trade 
with  Uganda.  He  answered  that  he  would  assemble  all  his  offi- 
cers in  the  morning  to  consult  with  them  on  the  subject,  when  he 
hoped  we  would  attend,  as  he  wished  to  further  our  views.  A 
herd  of  cows,  about  eighty  in  number,  were  driven  in  from  Un- 
yoro, showing  that  the  silly  king  was  actually  robbing  Kamrasi 
at  the  same  time  that  he  was  trying  to  treat  with  him.  K’yengo 
informed  us  that  the  king,  considering  the  surprising  events  which 
had  lately  occurred  at  his  court,  being  very  anxious  to  pry  into 
the  future,  had  resolved  to  take  a very  strong  measure  for  accom- 
plishing that  end.  This  was  the  sacrifice  of  a child  by  cooking, 
as  described  in  the  introduction  — a ceremony  which  it  fell  to 
K’yengo  to  carry  out. 

29th.  To  have  two  strings  to  my  bow,  and  press  our  departure 
as  hotly  as  possible,  I sent  first  Frij  off  with  Nasib  to  the  queen, 
conveying,  as  a parting  present,  a block-tin  brush-box,  a watch 
without  a key,  two  sixpenny  pocket-handkerchiefs,  and  a white 
towel,  with  an  intimation  that  we  were  going,  as  the  king  had  ex- 
pressed his  desire  of  sending  us  to  Gani.  Her  majesty  accepted 
the  present,  finding  fault  with  the  watch  for  not  ticking  like  the 
king’s,  and  would  not  believe  her  son  Mtesa  had  been  so  hasty  in 
giving  us  leave  to  depart,  as  she  had  not  been  consulted  on  the 
subject  yet.  Setting  off  to  attend  the  king  at  his  appointed  time, 
I found  the  kamraviona  already  there,  with  a large  court  attend- 
ance, patiently  awaiting  his  majesty’s  advent.  As  we  were  all 


406 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


waiting  on,  I took  a rise  out  of  the  kamraviona  by  telling  him  I 
wanted  a thousand  men  to  march  with  me  through  Kidi  to  Gani. 
Surprised  at  the  extent  of  my  requisition,  he  wished  to  know  if 
my  purpose  was  fighting.  I made  him  a present  of  the  great 
principle  that  power  commands  respect,  and  it  was  to  prevent 
any  chance  of  fighting  that  we  required  so  formidable  an  escort. 
His  reply  was  that  he  would  tell  the  king ; and  he  immediately 
rose  and  walked  away  home. 

K’yengo  and  the  representatives  of  Usui  and  Karague  now  ar- 
rived by  order  of  the  king  to  bid  farewell,  and  received  the  slaves 
and  cattle  lately  captured.  As  I was  very  hungry,  I set  off  home 
to  breakfast.  Just  as  I had  gone,  the  provoking  king  inquired 
after  me,  and  so  brought  me  back  again,  though  I never  saw  him 
the  whole  day.  K’yengo,  however,  was  very  communicative. 
He  said  he  was  present  when  Sunna,  with  all  the  forces  he  could 
muster,  tried  to  take  the  very  countries  I now  proposed  to  travel 
through  ; but,  though  in  person  exciting  his  army  to  victory,  he 
could  make  nothing  of  it.  He  advised  my  returning  to  Karague, 
when  Rumanika  would  give  me  an  escort  through  Nkole  to 
Unyoro ; but,  finding  that  did  not  suit  my  views,  as  I swore  I 
would  never  retrace  one  step,  he  proposed  my  going  by  boat  to 
Unyoro,  following  down  the  Nile. 

This,  of  course,  was  exactly  what  I wanted;  but  how  could 
King  Mtesa,  after  the  rebuff  he  had  received  from  Kamrasi,  be 
induced  to  consent  to  it?  My  intention,  I said,  was  to  try  the 
king  on  the  Usoga  and  Kidi  route  first,  then  on  the  Masai  route 
to  Zanzibar,  affecting  perfect  indifference  about  Kamrasi;  and 
all  those  failing — which  of  course  they  would — I would  ask  for 
Unyoro  as  a last  and  only  resource.  Still  I could  not  see  the 
king  to  open  my  heart  to  him,  and  therefore  felt  quite  nonplused. 
“ Oh,”  says  K’yengo,  “ the  reason  why  you  do  not  see  him  is 
merely  because  he  is  ashamed  to  show  his  face,  having  made  so 
many  fair  promises  to  you  which  he  knows  he  never  can  carry 
out;  bide  your  time,  and  all  will  be  well.”  At  4 P.M.,  as  no 
hope  of  seeing  the  king  was  left,  all  retired. 

80 th.  Unexpectedly,  and  for  reasons  only  known  to  himself, 
the  king  sent  us  a cow  and  load  of  butter,  which  had  been  asked 
for  many  days  ago.  The  new  moon  seen  last  night  kept  the  king- 
engaged  at  home,  paying  his  devotions  with  his  magic  horns  or 
fetishes  in  the  manner  already  described.  The  spirit  of  this  re- 
ligion— if  such  it  can  be  called — is  not  so  much  adoration  of  a 


July.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


407 


Being  supreme  and  beneficent,  as  a tax  to  certain  malignant  furies 
— a propitiation,  in  fact,  to  prevent  them  bringing  evil  on  the 
land,  and  to  insure  a fruitful  harvest.  It  was  rather  ominous 
that  hail  fell  with  violence,  and  lightning  burnt  down  one  of  the 
palace  huts,  while  the  king  was  in  the  midst  of  his  propitiatory 
devotions. 

1st.  As  Bombay  was  ordered  to  the  palace  to  instruct  the  king 
in  the  art  of  casting  bullets,  I primed  him  well  to  plead  for  the 
road,  and  he  reported  to  me  the  results  thus : First,  he  asked  one 
thousand  men  to  go  through  Kidi.  This  the  king  said  was  im- 
practicable, as  the  Waganda  had  tried  it  so  often  before  without 
success.  Then,  as  that  could  not  be  managed,  what  would  the 
king  devise  himself?  Bana  only  proposed  the  Usoga  and  Kidi 
route,  because  he  thought  it  would  be  to  the  advantage  of  Uganda. 
“Oh,”  says  the  king,  cunningly,  “if  Bana  merely  wishes  to  see 
Usoga,  he  can  do  so,  and  I will  send  a suitable  escort,  but  no 
more.”  To  this  Bombay  replied,  “Bana  never  could  return;  he 
would  sooner  do  any  thing  than  return — even  penetrate  the 
Masai  to  Zanzibar,  or  go  through  Unyoro;”  to  which  the  king, 
ashamed  of  his  impotence,  hung  down  his  head  and  walked'  away. 

In  the  mean  while,  and  while  this  was  going  on  at  the  king’s 
palace,  I went  with  Grant,  by  appointment,  to  see  the  queen.  As 
usual,  she  kept  us  waiting  some  time,  then  appeared  sitting  by  an 
open  gate,  and  invited  us,  together  with  many  wakungu  and 
Wasumbua,  to  approach.  Very  lavish  with  stale  sour  pombe, 


Waganda  Officers  drinking  Pombe,  or  Plantain  Wine. 


408 


TI-IE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


she  gave  us  all  some,  saving  the  Wasumbua,  whom  she  addressed 
very  angrily,  asking  what  they  wanted,  as  they  have  been  months 
in  the  country.  These  poor  creatures,  in  a desponding  mood,  de- 
fended themselves  by  saying,  which  was  quite  true,  that  they  had 
left  their  homes  in  Sorombo  to  visit  her  and  to  trade.  They  had, 
since  their  arrival  in  the  country,  been  daily  in  attendance  at  her 
palace,  but  never  had  the  good  fortune  to  see  her  excepting  on 
such  lucky  occasions  as  brought  the  wazungu  (white  men)  here, 
when  she  opened  her  gates  to  them,  but  otherwise  kept  them 
shut.  The  queen  retorted,  “ And  what  have  you  brought  me, 
pray?  where  is  it?  Until  I touch  it  you  will  neither  see  me  nor 
obtain  permission  to  trade.  Uganda  is  no  place  for  idle  vaga- 
bonds.” We  then  asked  for  a private  interview,  when,  a few 
drops  of  rain  falling,  the  queen  walked  away,  and  we  had  orders 
to  wait  a little.  During  this  time  two  boys  were  birched  by  the 
queen’s  orders,  and  an  officer  was  sent  out  to  inquire  why  the 
watch  we  had  given  her  did  not  go.  This  was  easily  explained. 
It  had  no  key ; and,  never  losing  sight  of  the  main  object,  we 
took  advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  add,  that  if  she  did  not  ap- 
prove of  it,  we  could  easily  exchange  it  for  another  on  arrival  at 
Gani,  provided  she  would  send  an  officer  with  us. 

The  queen,  squatting  within  her  hut,  now  ordered  both  Grant 
and  myself  to  sit  outside  and  receive  a present  of  five  eggs  and 
one  cock  each,  saying  coaxingly,  “ These  are  for  my  children.” 
Then  taking  out  the  presents,  she  learned  the  way  of  wearing  her 
watch  with  a tape  guard  round  her  neck,  reposing  the  instrument 
in  her  bare  bosom,  and  of  opening  and  shutting  it,  which  so  pleased 
her  that  she  declared  it  quite  satisfactory.  The  key  was  quite  a 
minor  consideration,  for  she  could  show  it  to  her  attendants  just 
as  well  without  one.  The  towel  and  handkerchiefs  were  also 
very  beautiful,  but  what  use  could  they  be  put  to?  “Oh,  your 
majesty,  to  wipe  the  mouth  with  after  drinking  pombe.”  “Of 
course,”  is  the  reply — “excellent;  I won’t  use  a mbiigu  napkin 
any  more,  but  have  one  of  these  placed  on  my  cup  when  it  is 
brought  to  drink,  and  wipe  my  mouth  with  it  afterward.  But 
what  does  Bana  want?”  “ The  road  to  Gani,”  says  Bombay  for 
me.  “ The  king  won’t  see  him  when  he  goes  to  the  palace,  so 
now  he  comes  here,  trusting  your  superior  influence  and  good- 
nature will  be  more  practicable.”  “Oh!”  says  her  majesty, 
“ Bana  does  not  know  the  facts  of  the  case.  My  son  has  tried  all 
the  roads  without  success,  and  now  he  is  ashamed  to  meet  Bana 


July.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


409 


face  to  face.”  “Then  what  is  to  be  done,  jour  majesty?”  “Bana 
must  go  back  to  Karague,  and  wait  for  a year,  until  my  son  is 
crowned,  when  he  will  make  friends  with  the  surrounding  chiefs, 
and  the  roads  will  be  opened.”  “But  Bana  says  he  will  not  re- 
trace one  step  ; he  would  sooner  lose  his  life.”  “ Oh,  that’s  non- 
sense ; he  must  not  be  headstrong ; but,  before  any  thing  more 
can  be  said,  I will  send  a message  to  my  son,  and  Bana  can  then 
go  with  Kaddu,  K’yengo,  and  Viarungi,  and  tell  all  they  have  to 
say  to  Mtesa  to-morrow,  and  the  following  day  return  to  me, 
when  every  thing  will  be  concluded.”  W e all  now  left  but  Kaddu 
and  some  of  the  queen’s  officers,  who  waited  for  the  message  to 
her  son  about  us.  To  judge  from  Kaddu,  it  must  have  been  very 
different  from  what  she  led  us  to  expect,  as,  on  joining  us,  he  said 
there  was  not  the  smallest  chance  of  our  getting  the  road  we  re- 
quired, for  the  queen  was  so  decided  about  it  no  farther  argument 
would  be  listened  to. 

2 cl  Three  goats  were  stolen,  and  suspicion  falling  on  the  king’s 
cooks,  who  are  expert  foragers,  we  sent  to  the  kamraviona,  and 
asked  him  to  order  out  the  mganga ; but  his  only  reply  was  that 
he  often  loses  goats  in  the  same  way.  He  sent  us  one  of  his  own 
for  present  purposes,  and  gave  thirty  baskets  of  potatoes  to  my 
men.  As  the  king  held  a court,  and  broke  it  up  before  8 A.M., 
and  no  one  would  go  there  for  fear  of  his  not  appearing  again,  I 
waited  till  the  evening  for  Bombay,  Kaddu,  K’yengo,  and  Via- 
rungi, when,  finding  them  drunk,  I went  by  myself,  fired  a gun, 
and  was  admitted  to  where  the  king  was  hunting  Guinea-fowl. 
On  seeing  me,  he  took  me  affectionately  by  the  hand,  and,  as  we 
walked  along  together,  he  asked  me  what  I wanted,  showed  me 
the  house  which  was  burnt  down,  and  promised  to  settle  the  road 
question  in  the  morning. 

3d.  With  Kaddu,  K’yengo,  and  Viarungi  all  in  attendance,  we 
went  to  the  palace,  where  there  was  a large  assemblage  prepared 
for  a levee,  and  fired  a gun,  which  brought  the  king  out  in  state. 
The  sakibobo,  or  provincial  governor,  arrived  with  a body  of 
soldiers  armed  with  sticks,  made  a speech,  and  danced  at  the  head 
of  his  men,  all  pointing  sticks  upward,  and  singing  fidelity  to  their 
king. 

The  king  then  turned  to  me  and  said,  “I  have  come  out  to 
listen  to  your  request  of  last  night.  What  is  it  you  do  want?” 
I said,  “ To  open  the  country  to  the  north,  that  an  uninterrupted 
line  of  commerce  might  exist  between  England  and  this  country 


410 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


by  means  of  the  Nile.  I might  go  round  by  Nkole”  (K’yengo 
looked  daggers  at  me);  “but  that  is  out  of  the  way,  and  not  suit- 
able to  the  purpose.”  The  queen’s  deputation  was  now  ordered 
to  draw  near,  and  questioned  in  a whisper.  As  K’yengo  was 
supposed  to  know  all  about  me,  and  spoke  fluently  both  in 
Kiganda  and  Kisiiahili,  he  had  to  speak  first ; but  K’yengo,  to 
every  body’s  surprise,  said,  “One  white  man  wishes  to  go  to  Kam- 
rasi’s,  while  the  other  wishes  to  return  through  Unyamuezi.” 
This  announcement  made  the  king  reflect ; for  he  had  been  pri- 
vately primed  by  his  mother’s  attendants  that  we  both  wished  to 
go  to  Gani,  and  therefore  shrewdly  inquired  if  Rumanika  knew 
we  wished  to  visit  Kamrasi,  and  whether  he  was  aware  we  should 
attempt  the  passage  north  from  Uganda.  “Oh  yes;  of  course 
Bana  wrote  to  Bana  Mdogo”  (the  little  master)  “as  soon  as  he  ar- 
rived in  Uganda,  and  told  him  and  Rumanika  all  about  it.” 
“Wrote!  what  does  that  mean?”  and  I was  called  upon  to  ex- 
plain. Mtesa,  then  seeing  a flaw  in  K’yengo’s  statements,  called 
him  a story-teller;  ordered  him  and  his  party  away,  and  bade 
me  draw  near. 

The  moment  of  triumph  had  come  at  last,  and  suddenly  the 
road  was  granted ! The  king  presently  let  us  see  the  motive  by 
which  he  had  been  influenced.  He  said  he  did  not  like  having 
to  send  to  Rumanika  for  every  thing : he  wanted  his  visitors  to 
come  to  him  direct ; moreover,  Rumanika  had  sent  him  a mes- 
sage to  the  effect  that  we  were  not  to  be  shown  any  thing  out  of 
Uganda,  and  when  we  had  done  with  it,  were  to  be  returned  to 
him.  Rumanika,  indeed!  who  cared  about  Rumanika?  Was 
not  Mtesa  the  king  of  the  country,  to  do  as  he  liked?  and  we  all 
laughed.  Then  the  king,  swelling  with  pride,  asked  me  whom  I 
liked  best,  Rumanika  or  himself — an  awkward  question,  which  I 
disposed  of  by  saying  I liked  Rumanika  very  much  because  he 
spoke  well,  and  was  very  communicative;  but  I also  liked  Mtesa, 
because  his  habits  were  much  like  my  own — fond  of  shooting  and 
roaming  about;  while  he  had  learned  so  many  things  from  my 
teaching  I must  ever  feel  a yearning  toward  him. 

With  much  satisfaction, I felt  that  my  business  was  now  done; 
for  Rudja  was  appointed  to  escort  u§  to  Unyoro,  and  Jumba  to 
prepare  us  boats,  that  we  might  go  all  the  way  to  Kamrasi’s  by 
water.  Viarungi  made  a petition,  on  Rumanika’s  behalf,  for  an 
army  of  Waganda  to  go  to  Karagud,  and  fight  the  refractory 
brother,  Rogero ; but  this  was  refused,  on  the  plea  that  the  whole 


July.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


411 


army  was  out  fighting  at  the  present  moment.  The  court  then 
broke  up  and  we  went  home. 

To  keep  the  king  up  to  the  mark  and  seal  our  passage,  in  the 
evening  I took  a Lancaster  rifle,  with  ammunition,  and  the  iron 
chair  he  formerly  asked  for,  as  a parting  present,  to  the  palace, 
but  did  not  find  him,  as  he  had  gone  out  shooting  with  his 
brothers. 

4 th.  Grant  and  I now  called  together  on  the  king  to  present 
the  rifle,  chair,  and  ammunition,  as  we  could  not  thank  him  in 
words  sufficiently  for  the  favor  he  had  done  us  in  granting  the 
road  through  Unyoro.  I said  the  parting  gift  was  not  half  as 
much  as  I should  like  to  have  been  able  to  give ; but  we  hoped, 
on  reaching  Gani,  to  send  Petherick  up  to  him  with  every  thing 
that  he  could  desire.  We  regretted  we  had  no  more  powder  or 
shot,  as  what  was  intended,  and  actually  placed  out  expressly  to 
be  presented  on  this  occasion,  was  stolen.  The  king  looked  hard 
at  his  head  page,  who  was  once  sent  to  get  these  very  things  now 
given,  and  then  turning  the  subject  adroitly,  asked  me  how  many 
cows  and  women  I would  like,  holding  his  hand  up  with  spread 
fingers,  and  desiring  me  to  count  by  hundreds;  but  the  reply 
was,  Five  cows  and  goats  would  be  enough,  for  we  wished  to 
travel  lightly  in  boats,  starting  from  the  Murchison  Creek.  Wom- 
en were  declined  on  such  grounds  as  would  seem  rational  to  him. 
But  if  the  king  would  clothe  my  naked  men  with  one  mbugu 
(bark  cloth)  each,  and  give  a small  tusk  each  to  nine  Wanyamuezi 
porters,  who  desired  to  return  to  their  home,  the  obligation  would 
be  great. 

Every  thing  was  granted  without  the  slightest  hesitation  ; and  • 
then  the  king,  turning  to  me,  said,  “Well,  Bana,  so  you  really 
wish  to  go?”  “Yes,  for  I have  not  seen  my  home  for  four  years 
and  upward” — reckoning  five  months  to  the  year,  Uganda  fash- 
ion “And  you  can  give  me  no  stimulants?”  “ISTo.”  “Then 
you  will  send  me  some  from  Gani — brandy  if  you  like ; it  makes 
people  sleep  sound,  and  gives  them  strength.”  Next  we  went  to 
the  queen  to  bid  farewell,  but  did  not  see  her. 

On  returning  home  I found  half  my  men  in  a state  of  mutiny. 
They  had  been  on  their  own  account  to  beg  for  the  women  and 
cows  which  had  been  refused,  saying,  If  Bana  does  not  want  them, 
we  do,  for  we  have  been  starved  here  ever  since  we  came,  and 
when  we  go  for  food  get  broken  heads;  we  will  not  serve  with 
Bana  any  longer;  but,  as  he  goes  north,  we  will  return  to  Kara- 


412 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


giie  and  Unyanyembd.  Bombay,  however,  told  them  they  never 
bad  fed  so  well  in  all  tbeir  lives  as  they  bad  in  Uganda,  counting 
from  fifty  to  sixty  cows  killed,  and  pombe  and  plantains  every 
day,  whenever  they  took  the  trouble  to  forage;  and  for  tbeir 
broken  beads  they  invariably  received  a compensation  in  wom- 
en, so  that  Bana  bad  reason  to  regret  every  day  spent  in  asking 
for  food  for  them  at  the  palace — a favor  which  none  but  bis  men 
received,  but  which  they  bad  not,  as  they  might  have  done,  turned 
to  good  effect  by  changing  the  system  of  plundering  for  food  in 
Uganda. 

5th.  By  the  king’s  order  we  attended  at  the  palace  early.  The 
gun  obtained  us  all  a speedy  admittance,  when  the  king  opened 
conversation  by  saying,  “Well,  Bana,  so  you  really  are  going?” 
“Yes:  I have  enjoyed  your  hospitality  for  a long  time,  and  now 
wish  to  return  to  my  home.”  “ What  provision  do  you  want?” 
I said,  Five  cows  and  five  goats,  as  we  sha’n’t  be  long  in  Uganda; 
and  it  is  not  the  custom  of  our  country,  when  we  go  visiting,  to 
carry  any  thing  away  with  us.  The  king  then  said,  “Well,  I 
wish  to  give  you  much,  but  you  won’t  have  it;”  when  Budja 
spoke  out,  saying,  “ Bana  does  not  know  the  country  he  has  to 
travel  through;  there  is  nothing  but  jungle  and  famine  on  the 
way,  and  he  must  have  cows;”  on  which  the  king  ordered  us 
sixty  cows,  fourteen  goats,  ten  loads  of  butter,  a load  of  coffee  and 
tobacco,  one  hundred  sheets  of  mbugu  as  clothes  for  my  men,  at 
a suggestion  of  Bombay’s,  as  all  my  cloth  had  been  expended 
even  before  I left  Karague. 

This  magnificent  order  created  a pause,  which  K’yengo  took 
advantage  of  by  producing  a little  bundle  of  peculiarly -shaped 
sticks  and  a lump  of  earth,  all  of  which  have  their  own  particular 
magical  powers,  as  K’yengo  described  to  the  king’s  satisfaction. 
After  this,  Viarungi  pleaded  the  cause  of  my  mutinous  followers 
till  I shook  my  finger  angrily  at  him  before  the  king,  rebuked 
him  for  intermeddling  in  other  people’s  affairs,  and  told  my  own 
story,  which  gained  the  sympathy  of  the  king,  and  induced  him 
to  say,  “ Supposing  they  desert  Bana,  what  road  do  they  expect 
to  get?”  Maula  was  now  appointed  to  go  with  Rozaro  to  Kara- 
gue for  the  powder  and  other  things  promised  yesterday,  while 
Viarungi  and  all  his  party,  though  exceedingly  anxious  to  get 
away,  had  orders  to  remain  here  prisoners  as  a surety  for  the 
things  arriving.  Farther,  Kaddu  and  two  other  wakungu  received 
orders  to  go  to  Usui  with  two  tusks  of  ivory  to  purchase  gun- 


July.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


413 


powder,  caps,  and  flints,  failing  which,  they  would  proceed  to 
Unyanyembe,  and  even  to  Zanzibar,  for  the  king  must  not  be 
disappointed,  and  failure  would  cost  them  their  lives. 

Not  another  word  was  said,  and  away  the  two  parties  went, 
with  no  more  arrangement  than  a set  of  geese — Maula  without 
a letter,  and  Kaddu  without  any  provision  for  the  way,  as  if  all 
the  world  belonged  to  Mtesa,  and  he  could  help  himself  from  any 
man’s  garden  that  he  liked,  no  matter  where  he  was.  In  the 
evening  my  men  made  a humble  petition  for  their  discharge, 
even  if  I did  not  pay  them,  producing  a hundred  reasons  for 
wishing  to  leave,  but  none  which  would  stand  a moment’s  argu- 
ment: the  fact  was,  they  were  afraid  of  the  road  to  Unyoro,  think- 
ing I had  not  sufficient  ammunition. 

6th.  I visited  the  king,  and  asked  leave  for  boats  to  go  at  once ; 
but  the  fleet  admiral  put  a veto  on  this  by  making  out  that  dan- 
gerous shallows  exist  between  the  Murchison  Creek  and  the  Kira 
district  station,  so  that  the  boats  of  one  place  never  visit  the  oth- 
er ; and,  farther,  if  we  went  to  Kira,  we  should  find  impracticable 
cataracts  to  the  Urondogani  boat-station ; our  better  plan  would 
therefore  be  to  deposit  our  property  at  the  Urondogani  station, 
and  walk  by  land  up  the  river,  if  a sight  of  the  falls  at  the  mouth 
of  the  lake  was  of  such  material  consequence  to  us. 

Of  course  this  man  carried  every  thing  his  own  way,  for  there 
was  nobody  able  to  contradict  him,  and  we  could  not  afford  time 
to  visit  Usoga  first,  lest  by  the  delay  we  might  lose  an  opportu- 
nity of  communicating  with  Petherick.  Grant  now  took  a por- 
trait of  Mtesa  by  royal  permission,  the  king  sitting  as  quietly  as 
his  impatient  nature  would  permit.  Then  at  home  the  "Wan- 
yamuezi  porters  received  their  tusks  of  ivory,  weighing  from  16 
to  50  lbs.  each,  and  took  a note  besides  on  Eumanika  each  for 
twenty  fundo  of  beads,  barring  one  Pogue  man,  who,  having  lent 
a cloth  to  the  expedition  some  months  previously,  thought  it 
would  not  be  paid  him,  and  therefore  seized  a sword  as  security ; 
the  consequence  was,  his  tusk  was  seized  until  the  sword  was  re- 
turned, and  he  was  dismissed  minus  his  beads  for  having  so  mis- 
conducted himself.  The  impudent  fellow  then  said,  “It  will  be 
well  for  Bana  if  he  succeeds  in  getting  the  road  through  Unyoro; 
for,  should  he  fail,  I will  stand  in  his  path  at  Bogue.”  Kitunzi 
offered  an  ivory  for  beads,  and  when  told  we  were  not  merchants, 
and  advised  to  try  K’yengo,  he  said  he  dared  not  even  approach 
K’yengo’s  camp  lest  people  should  tell  the  king  of  it,  and  accuse 


414 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


him  of  seeking  for  magical  powers  against  his  sovereign.  Old 
Nasib  begged  for  his  discharge.  It  was  granted,  and  he  took  a 
$50  letter  on  the  coast,  and  a letter  of  emancipation  for  himself 
and  family,  besides  an  order,  written  in  Kisuahili,  for  ten  fundo 
of  beads  on  Rumanika,  which  made  him  very  happy. 

In  the  evening  we  called  again  at  the  palace  with  pictures  of 
the  things  the  king  required  from  Rumanika,  and  a letter  inform- 
ing Rumanika  what  we  wished  done  with  them,  in  order  that 
there  might  be  no  mistake,  requesting  the  king  to  forward  them 
after  Maula.  Just  then  Kaddu’s  men  returned  to  say  they  wanted 
provisions  for  the  way,  as  the  Wazinza,  hearing  of  their  mission, 
asked  them  if  they  knew  what  they  were  about,  going  to  a strange 
country  without  any  means  of  paying  their  way.  But  the  king, 
instead  of  listening  to  reason,  impetuously  said,  “If  you  do  not 
pack  off  at  once,  and  bring  me  the  things  I want,  every  man  of 
you  shall  lose  his  head;  and  as  for  the  Wazinza,  for  interfering 
with  my  orders,  they  shall  be  kept  here  prisoners  until  you  re- 
turn.” 

On  the  way  home,  one  of  the  king’s  favorite  women  overtook 
us,  walking,  with  her  hands  clasped  at  the  back  of  her  head,  to 
execution,  crying  “N’yawol”  in  the  most  pitiful  manner.  A 
man  was  preceding  her,  but  did  not  touch  her ; for  she  loved  to 
obey  the  orders  of  her  king  voluntarily,  and,  in  consequence  of 
previous  attachment,  was  permitted,  as  a mark  of  distinction,  to 
walk  free.  Wondrous  world!  it  was  not  ten  minutes  since  we 
parted  from  the  king,  yet  he  had  found  time  to  transact  this 
bloody  piece  of  business. 

7 tli.  Early  in  the  morning  the  king  bade  us  come  to  him  to  say 
farewell.  Wishing  to  leave  behind  a favorable  impression,  I in- 
stantly complied.  On  the  breast  of  my  coat  I suspended  the 
necklace  the  queen  had  given  me,  as  well  as  his  knife  and  my 
medals.  I talked  with  him  in  as  friendly  and  flattering  a manner 
as  I could,  dwelling  on  his  shooting,  the  pleasant  cruising  on  the 
lake,  and  our  sundry  picnics,  as  well  as  the  grand  prospect  there 
was  now  of  opening  the  country  to  trade,,  by  which  his  guns,  the 
best  in  the  world,  would  be  fed  with  powder,  and  other  small 
matters  of  a like  nature,  to  which  he  replied  with  great  feeling 
and  good  taste.  We  then  all  rose  with  an  English  bow,  placing 
the  hand  on  the  heart  while  saying  adieu ; and  there  was  a com- 
plete uniformity  in  the  ceremonial,  for,  whatever  I did,  Mtesa,  in 
an  instant,  mimicked  with  the  instinct  of  a monkey. 


JULT.] 


PALACE,  UGANDA. 


415 


We  had,  however,  scarcely  quitted  the  palace  gate  before  the 
king  issued  himself,  with  his  attendants  and  his  brothers  leading, 
and  women  bringing  up  the  rear;  here  K’yengo  and  all  the  Wa- 
zinza  joined  in  the  procession  with  ourselves,  they  kneeling  and 
clapping  their  hands  after  the  fashion  of  their  own  country. 
Budja  just  then  made  me  feel  very  anxious  by  pointing  out  the 
position  of  Urondogani,  as  I thought,  too  far  north.  I called  the 
king’s  attention  to  it,  and  in  a moment  he  said  he  would  speak  to 
Budja  in  such  a manner  that  would  leave  no  doubts  in  my  mind, 
for  he  liked  me  much,  and  desired  to  please  me  in  all  things.  As 
the  procession  now  drew  close  to  our  camp,  and  Mtesa  expressed 
a wish  to  have  a final  look  at  my  men,  I ordered  them  to  turn 
out  with  their  arms  and  n’yanzig  for  the  many  favors  they  had 
received.  Mtesa,  much  pleased,  complimented  them  on  their 
goodly  appearance,  remarking  that  with  such  a force  I would 
have  no  difficulty  in  reaching  Gani,  and  exhorted  them  to  follow 
me  through  fire  and  water ; then,  exchanging  adieus  again,  he 
walked  ahead  in  gigantic  strides  up  the  hill,  the  pretty  favorite  of 
his  harem,  Lubuga — beckoning  and  waving  with  her  little  hands, 
and  crying  “Bana!  Bana!”  — trotting  after  him  conspicuous 
among  the  rest,  though  all  showed  a little  feeling  at  the  severance. 
We  saw  them  no  more. 


416 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


CHAPTER  XY. 

MARCH  DOWN  THE  NORTHERN  SLOPES  OF  AFRICA. 

Kari. — Tragic  Incident  there. — Renewal  of  Troubles. — Quarrels  with  the  Natives.— 
Reach  the  Nile. — Description  of  the  Scene  there. — Sport. — Church  Estate. — As- 
cend the  River  to  the  Junction  with  the  Lake. — Ripon  Falls. — General  Account 
of  the  Source  of  the  Nile.— Descend  again  to  Urondogani. — The  truculent  Saki- 
bobo. 

7 th  to  11  tli.  With  Budja  appointed  as  the  general  director,  a 
lieutenant  of  the  sakibobo’s  to  furnish  us  with  sixty  cows  in  his 
division  at  the  first  halting-place,  and  Kasoro  (Mr.  Cat),  a lieuten- 
ant of  Jumba’s,  to  provide  the  boats  at  Urondogani,  we  started  at 
1 P.M.  on  the  journey  northward.  The  Wanguana  still  grumbled, 
swearing  they  would  carry  no  loads,  as  they  got  no  rations,  and 
threatening  to  shoot  us  if  we  pressed  them,  forgetting  that  their 
food  had  been  paid  for  to  the  king  in  rifles,  chronometers,  and 
other  articles,  costing  about  $2000,  and,  what  was  more  to  the 
point,  that  all  the  ammunition  was  in  our  hands.  A 

To  Namavimdu,  _ . . 

ith.  mdicious  threat  of  the  stick,  however,  put  things 

To  Nasire  S th.  . ' . r 0 . 

To  Namaouja,  right,  and  on  we  marched  five  successive  days  to  Kari 
To  Baja,  wth.  — as  the  place  was  afterward  named,  in  consequence 

To  Kari,  11th.  1 . , , , 1 

of  the  tragedy  mentioned  below — the  whole  distance 
accomplished  being  thirty  miles  from  the  capital,  through  a fine 
hilly  country,  with  jungles  and  rich  cultivation  alternating.  The 
second  march,  after  crossing  the  Katawana  Eiver,  with  its  many 
branches  flowing  northeast  into  the  huge  rush-drain  of  Luajerri, 
carried  us  beyond  the  influence  of  the  higher  hills,  and  away  from 
the  huge  grasses  which  characterize  the  southern  boundary  of 
Uganda  bordering  on  the  lake. 

Each  day’s  march  to  Kari  was  directed  much  in  the  same  man- 
ner. After  a certain  number  of  hours’  traveling,  Budja  appointed 
some  village  of  residence  for  the  night,  avoiding  those  which  be- 
longed to  the  queen,  lest  any  rows  should  take  place  in  them, 
which  would  create  disagreeable  consequences  with  the  king,  and 
preferring  those  the  heads  of  which  had  been  lately  seized  by  the 
orders  of  the  king.  Nevertheless,  wherever  we  went,  all  the  vil- 


THE  NORTHERN  SLOPES  OF  AFRICA. 


417 


lagers  forsook  their  homes,  and  left  their  houses,  property,  and 
gardens  an  easy  prey  to  the  thieving  propensities  of  the  escort. 
To  put  a stop  to  this  vile  practice  was  now  beyond  my  power ; 
the  king  allowed  it,  and  his  men  were  the  first  in  every  house, 
taking  goats,  fowls,  skins,  mbugus,  cowries,  beads,  drums,  spears, 
tobacco,  pombe — in  short,  every  thing  they  could  lay  their  hands 
on — in  the  most  ruthless  manner.  It  was  a perfect  marauding 
campaign  for  them  all,  and  all  alike  were  soon  laden  with  as 
much  as  they  could  carry. 

A halt  of  some  days  had  become  necessary  at  Kari  to  collect 
the  cows  given  by  the  king;  and,  as  it  is  one  of  his  most  exten- 
sive pasture-grounds,  I strolled  with  my  rifle  (11th)  to  see  what 
new  animals  could  be  found ; but  no  sooner  did  I wound  a zebra 
than  messengers  came  running  after  me  to  say  Kari,  one  of  my 
men,  had  been  murdered  by  the  villagers  three  miles  off;  and 
such  was  the  fact.  He,  with  others  of  my  men,  had  been  induced 
to  go  plundering,  with  a few  boys  of  the  Waganda  escort,  to  a 
certain  village  of  potters,  as  pots  were  required  by  Budja  for 
making  plantain  wine,  the  first  thing  ever  thought  of  when  a 
camp  is  formed.  On  nearing  the  place,  however,  the  women  of 
the  village,  who  were  the  only  people  visible,  instead  of  running 
away,  as  our  braves  expected,  commenced  hullalooing,  andbrought 
out  their  husbands.  Flight  was  now  the  only  thought  of  our 
men,  and  all  would  have  escaped  had  Kari  not  been  slow  and  his 
musket  empty.  The  potters  overtook  him,  and,  as  he  pointed  his 
gun,  which  they  considered  a magic  horn,  they  speared  him  to 
death,  and  then  fled  at  once.  Our  survivors  were  not  long  in 
bringing  the  news  into  camp,  when  a party  went  out,  and  in  the 
evening  brought  in  the  man’s  corpse  and  every  thing  belonging 
to  him,  for  nothing  had  been  taken. 

12 th.  To  enable  me  at  my  leisure  to  trace  up  the  Nile  to  its 
exit  from  the  lake,  and  then  go  on  with  the  journey  as  quicklv 
as  possible,  I wished  the  cattle  to  be  collected  and  taken  by  Budja 
and  some  of  my  men  with  the  heavy  baggage  overland  to  Kam- 
rasi’s.  Another  reason  for  doing  so  was,  that  I thought  it  advis- 
able Kamrasi  should  be  forewarned  that  we  were  coming  by  the 
water  route,  lest  we  should  be  suspected  and  stopped  as  spies  by 
his  officers  on  the  river,  or  regarded  as  enemies,  which  would  pro- 
voke a fight.  Budja,  however,  objected  to  move  until  a report 
of  Kari’s  murder  had  been  forwarded  to  the  king,  lest  the  people, 
getting  bumptious,  should  try  the  same  trick  again ; and  Kasoro 

^ D D 


418  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [1862. 

said  he  would  not  go  up  the  river,  as  he  had  received  no  orders 
to  do  so. 

In  this  fix  I ordered  a march  back  to  the  palace,  mentioning 
the  king’s  last  words,  and  should  have  gone,  had  not  Budja  or- 
dered Kasoro  to  go  with  me.  A page  then  arrived  from  the  king 
to  ask  after  Bana’s  health,  carrying  the  Whitworth  rifle  as  his 
master’s  card,  and  begging  for  a heavy  double-barreled  gun  to  be 
sent  him  from  Grani.  I called  this  lad  to  witness  the  agreement 
I had  made  with  Budja,  and  told  him,  if  Kasoro  satisfied  me,  I 
would  return  by  him,  in  addition  to  the  heavy  gun,  a Massey’s 
patent  log.  I had  taken  it  for  the  navigation  of  the  lake,  and  it 
was  now  of  no  farther  use  to  me,  but,  being  an  instrument  of  com- 
plicated structure,  it  would  be  a valuable  addition  to  the  king’s 
museum  of  magic  charms.  I added  I should  like  the  king  to 
send  me  the  robes  of  honor  and  spears  he  had  once  promised  me, 
in  order  that  I might,  on  reaching  England,  be  able  to  show  my 
countrymen  a specimen  of  the  manufactures  of  his  country.  The 
men  who  were  with  Kari  were  now  sent  to  the  palace,  under  ac- 
cusation of  having  led  him  into  ambush,  and  a complaint  was 
made  against  the  villagers,  which  we  waited  the  reply  to.  As 
Budja  forbade  it,  no  men  would  follow  me  out  shooting,  saying 
the  villagers  were  out  surrounding  our  camp,  and  threatening  de- 
struction on  any  one  who  dared  show  his  face ; for  this  was  not 
the  high  road  to  Uganda,  and  therefore  no  one  had  a right  to 
turn  them  out  of  their  houses  and  pillage  their  gardens. 

13 th.  Budja  lost  two  cows  given  to  his  party  last  night,  and, 
seeing  ours  securely  tied  by  their  legs  to  trees,  asked  by  what 
spells  we  had  secured  them,  and  would  not  believe  our  assurance 
that  the  ropes  that  bound  them  were  all  the  medicines  we  knew 
of.  One  of  the  queen’s  sisters,  hearing  of  Kari’s  murder,  came  on 
a visit  to  condole  with  us,  bringing  a pot  of  pombe,  for  which  she 
received  some  beads.  On  being  asked  how  many  sisters  the 
queen  had,  for  we  could  not  help  suspecting  some  imposition,  she 
replied  she  was  the  only  one,  till  assured  ten  other  ladies  had  pre- 
sented themselves  as  the  queen’s  sisters  before,  when  she  changed 
her  tone,  and  said,  “ That  is  true,  I am  not  the  only  one ; but  if 
I had  told  you  the  truth  I might  have  lost  my  head.”  This  was 
a significant  expression  of  the  danger  of  telling  court  secrets. 

I suspected  that  there  must  be  a considerable  quantity  of  game 
in  this  district,  as  stake-nets  and  other  traps  were  found  in  all  the 
huts,  as  well  as  numbers  of  small  antelope  hoofs  spitted  on  pipe- 


July.]  THE  NORTHERN  SLOPES  OF  AFRICA.  419 

sticks — an  ornament  which  is  counted  the  special  badge  of  the 
sportsman  in  this  part  of  Africa.  Despite,  therefore,  of  the  warn- 
ings of  Budja,  I strolled  again  with  my  rifle,  and  saw  pallah, 
small  plovers,  and  green  antelopes  with  straight  horns,  called 
mpbo,  the  skin  of  which  makes  a favorite  apron  for  the  Ma- 
bandwa. 

14dh.  I met  to-day  a Mhuma  cowherd  in  my  strolls  with  the 
rifle,  and  asked  him  if  he  knew  where  the  game  lay.  The  un- 
mannerly creature,  standing  among  a thousand  of  the  sleekest  cat- 
tle, gruffishly  replied,  “What  can  I know  of  any  other  animals 
than  cows?”  and  went  on  with  his  work  as  if  nothing  in  the 
world  could  interest  him  but  his  cattle-tending.  I shot  a doe  len- 
cotis,  called  here  n’sunnu,  the  first  one  seen  upon  the  journey. 

loth.  In  the  morning,  when  our  men  went  for  water  to  the 
springs,  some  Waganda  in  ambush  threw  a spear  at  them,  and 
this  time  caught  a Tartar,  for  the  “ horns,”  as  they  called  their 
guns,  were  loaded,  and  two  of  them  received  shot-wounds.  Id 
the  evening,  while  we  were  returning  from  shooting,  a party  of 
Waganda,  also  lying  in  the  bush,  called  out  to  know  what  we 
were  about;  saying,  “Is  it  not  enough  that  you  have  turned  us 
out  of  our  homes  and  plantations,  leaving  us  to  live  like  animals 
in  the  wilderness?”  and  when  told  we  were  only  searching  for 
sport,  would  not  believe  that  our  motive  was  any  other  than  hos- 
tility to  themselves. 

At  night  one  of  Budja’s  men  returned  from  the  palace  to  say 
the  king  was  highly  pleased  with  the  measures  adopted  by  his 
wakungu.  in  prosecution  of  Kari’s  affair.  He  hoped  now,  as  we 
had  cows  to  eat,  there  would  be  no  necessity  for  wandering  for 
food,  but  all  would  keep  together  “in  one  garden.”  At  present 
no  notice  would  be  taken  of  the  murderers,  as  all  the  culprits 
would  have  fled  far  away  in  their  fright  to  escape  chastisement. 
But  when  a little  time  had  elapsed,  and  all  would  appear  to  have 
been  forgotten,  officers  would  be  sent  and  the  miscreants  appre- 
hended, for  it  was  impossible  to  suppose  any  body  could  be  igno- 
rant of  the  white  men  being  the  guests  of  the  king,  considering 
they  had  lived  at  the  palace  so  long.  The  king  took  this  oppor- 
tunity again  to  remind  me  that  he  wanted  a heavy  solid  double 
gun,  such  as  wTould  last  him  all  his  life ; and  intimated  that  in  a 
few  days  the  arms  and  robes  of  honor  were  to  be  sent. 

16th.  Most  of  the  cows  for  ourselves  and  the  guides — for  the 
king  gave  them  also  a present,  ten  each — were  driven  into  camp. 


420 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


We  also  got  50  lbs.  of  butter,  tbe  remainder  to  be  picked  up  on 
the  way.  I strolled  with  the  gun,  and  shot  two  zebras,  to  be  sent 
to  the  king,  as,  by  the  constitution  of  Uganda,  he  alone  can  keep 
their  royal  skins. 

11th.  We  had  to  halt  again,  as  the  guides  had  lost  most  of  their 
cows,  so  I strolled  with  my  rifle  and  shot  a ndjezza  doe,  the  first 
I had  ever  seen.  It  is  a brown  animal,  a little  smaller  than  the 
lencotis,  and  frequents  much  the  same  kind  of  ground. 

18^/i.  We  had  still  to  wait  another  day  for  Budja’s  cows,  when, 
as  it  appeared  all-important  to  communicate  quickly  with  Pethe- 
rick,  and  as  Grant’s  leg  was  considered  too  weak  for  traveling 
fast,  we  took  counsel  together  and  altered  our  plans.  I arranged 
that  Grant  should  go  to  Kamrasi’s  direct  with  the  property,  cattle, 
and  women,  taking  my  letters  and  a map  for  immediate  dispatch 
to  Petherick  at  Gani,  while  I should  go  up  the  river  to  its  source 
or  exit  from  the  lake,  and  come  down  again  navigating  as  far  as 
practicable. 

At  night  the  Waganda  startled  us  by  setting  fire  to  the  huts 
our  men  were  sleeping  in,  but  providentially  did  more  damage  to 
themselves  than  to  us,  for  one  sword  only  was  buried  in  the  fire, 
while  their  own  huts,  intended  to  be  vacated  in  the  morning, 
were  burnt  to  the  ground.  To  fortify  ourselves  against  another 
invasion,  we  cut  down  all  their  plantains  to  make  a boma  or 
fence. 

We  started  all  together  on  our  respective  journeys ; but,  after 
cross  the  Lua-  the  third  mile,  Grant  turned  west,  to  join  the  high 
To  Kiwakh-i,  road  to  Kamrasi’s,  while  I went  east  for  Urondogani, 
mh-  crossing  the  Luajerri,  a huge  rush-drain  three  miles 

broad,  fordable  nearly  to  the  right  bank,  where  we  had  to  ferry 
in  boats,  and  the  cows  to  be  swum  over  with  men  holding  on  to 
their  tails.  It  was  larger  than  the  Katonga,  and  more  tedious  to 
cross,  for  it  took  no  less  than  four  hours,  musquitoes  in  myriads 
biting  our  bare  backs  and  legs  all  the  while.  The  Luajerri  is 
said  to  rise  in  the  lake  and  fall  into  the  Nile  due  south  of  our 
crossing-point.  On  the  right  bank  wild  buffalo  are  described  to 
be  as  numerous  as  cows,  but  we  did  not  see  any,  though  the 
country  is  covered  with  a most  inviting  jungle  for  sport,  with  in- 
termediate lays  of  fine  grazing  grass.  Such  is  the  nature  of  the 
country  all  the  way  to  Urondogani,  except  in  some  favored  spots, 
kept  as  tidily  as  in  any  part  of  Uganda,  where  plantains  grow  in 
the  utmost  luxuriance.  From  want  of  guides,  and  misguided  by 


July.] 


THE  NORTHERN  SLOPES  OF  AFRICA. 


421 


the  exclusive  ill-natured  Wahuma,  who  were  here  in  great  num- 
bers tending  their  king’s  cattle,  we  lost  our  way  continually,  so 
that  we  did  not  reach  the  boat-station  until  the  morning  of  the 
21st. 

Here  at  last  I stood  on  the  brink  of  the  Nile.  Most  beautiful 
To urondogani,  was  the  scene;  nothing  could  surpass  it!  It  was  the 
21sJ>  very  perfection  of  the  kind  of  effect  aimed  at  in  a 

highly -kept  park;  with  a magnificent  stream  from  600  to  700 
yards  wide,  dotted  with  islets  and  rocks,  the  former  occupied  by 
fishermen’s  huts,  the  latter  by  sterns  and  crocodiles  basking  in 
the  sun,  flowing  between  fine  high  grassy  banks,  with  rich  trees 
and  plantains  in  the  background,  where  herds  of  the  n’sunnu  and 
hartebeest  could  be  seen  grazing,  while  the  hippopotami  were 
snorting'  in  the  water,  and  florikan  and  Guinea-fowl  rising  at  our 
feet.  Unfortunately,  the  chief  district  officer,  Mlondo,  was  from 
home,  but  we  took  possession  of  his  huts — clean,  extensive,  and 
tidily  kept — facing  the  river,  and  felt  as  if  a residence  here  wrould 
do  one  good.  Delays  and  subterfuges,  however,  soon  came  to 
damp  our  spirits.  The  acting  officer  was  sent  for,  and  asked  for 
the  boats ; they  were  all  scattered,  and  could  not  be  collected  for 
a day  or  two ; but,  even  if  they  were  at  hand,  no  boat  ever  went 
up  or  down  the  river.  The  chief  was  away  and  would  be  sent 
for,  as  the  king  often  changed  his  orders,  and,  after  all,  might  not 
mean  what  had  been  said.  The  district  belonged  to  the  sakibobo, 
and  no  representative  of  his  had  come  here.  These  excuses,  of 
course,  would  not  satisfy  us.  The  boats  must  be  collected,  seven, 
if  there  are  not  ten,  for  we  must  try  them,  and  come  to  some  un- 
derstanding about  them,  before  we  march  up  stream,  when,  if  the 
officer  values  his  life,  he  will  let  us  have  them,  and  acknowledge 
Kasoro  as  the  king’s  representative,  otherwise  a complaint  will  be 
sent  to  the  palace,  for  we  won’t  stand  trifling. 

We  were  now  confronting  Usoga,  a country  which  may  be  said 
to  be  the  very  counterpart  of  Uganda  in  its  richness  and  beauty. 
Here  the  people  use  such  huge  iron-headed  spears  with  short 
handles,  that,  on  seeing  one  to-day,  my  people  remarked  that  they 
were  better  fitted  for  digging  potatoes  than  piercing  men.  Ele- 
phants, as  we  had  seen  by  their  devastations  during  the  last  two 
marches,  were  very  numerous  in  this  neighborhood.  Till  lately, 
a party  from  Unyoro,  ivory -hunting,  had  driven  them  away. 
Lions  were  also  described  as  very  numerous  and  destructive  to 
human  life.  Antelopes  were  common  in  the  jungle,  and  the  hip- 


422 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


popotami,  though  frequenters  of  the  plantain  garden  and  constant- 
ly heard,  were  seldom  seen  on  land  in  consequence  of  their  un- 
steady habits. 

The  king’s  page  again  came,  begging  I would  not  forget  the 
gun  and  stimulants,  and  bringing  with  him  the  things  I asked  for 
— two  spears,  one  shield,  one  dirk,  two  leopard-cat  skins,  and  two 
sheets  of  small  antelope  skins.  I told  my  men  they  ought  to 
shave  their  heads  and  bathe  in  the  holy  river,  the  cradle  of  Moses 
— the  waters  of  which,  sweetened  with  sugar,  men  carry  all  the 
way  from  Egypt  to  Mecca,  and  sell  to  the  pilgrims.  But  Bom- 
bay, who  is  a philosopher  of  the  Epicurean  school,  said,  “We 
don’t  look  on  those  things  in  the  same  fanciful  manner  that  you 
do ; we  are  contented  with  all  the  commonplaces  of  life,  and  look 
for  nothing  beyond  the  present.  If  things  don’t  go  well,  it  is 
God’s  will ; and  if  they  do  go  well,  that  is  His  will  also.” 

22 d.  The  acting  chief  brought  a present  of  one  cow,  one  goat, 
and  pombe,  with  a mob  of  his  courtiers  to  pay  his  respects.  He 
promised  that  the  seven  boats,  which  are  all  the  station  could 
muster,  would  be  ready  next  day,  and  in  the  mean  while  a num- 
ber of  men  would  conduct  me  to  the  shooting-ground.  He  asked 
to  be  shown  the  books  of  birds  and  animals,  and  no  sooner  saw 
some  specimens  of  Wolff’s  handiwork,  than,  in  utter  surprise,  he 
exclaimed,  “I  know  how  these  are  done;  a bird  was  caught  and 
stamped  upon  the  paper,”  using  action  to  his  words,  and  showing 
what  he  meant,  while  all  his  followers  n’yanzigged  for  the  favor 
of  the  exhibition. 

In  the  evening  I strolled  in  the  antelope  parks,  enjoying  the 
scenery  and  sport  excessively.  A noble  buck  n’sunnu,  standing 
by  himself,  was  the  first  thing  seen  this  side,  though  a herd  of 
hartebeests  were  grazing  on  the  Usoga  banks.  One  bullet  rolled 
my  fine  friend  over,  but  the  rabble  looking  on  no  sooner  saw  the 
hit  than  they  rushed  upon  him  and  drove  him  off,  for  he  was  only 
wounded.  A chase  ensued,  and  he  was  tracked  by  his  blood, 
when  a pongo  (bush  boc)  was  started  and  divided  the  party.  It 
also  brought  me  to  another  single  buck  n’sunnu,  which  was  floored 
at  once,  and  left  to  be  carried  home  by  some  of  my  men  in  com- 
pany with  Waganda,  while  I went  on,  shot  a third  n’sunnu  buck, 
and  tracked  him  by  his  blood  till  dark,  for  the  bullet  had  pierced 
his  lungs  and  passed  out  on  the  other  side.  Failing  to  find  him 
on  the  way  home,  I shot,  besides  florikan  and  Guinea-chicks,  a 
wonderful  goatsucker,  remarkable  for  the  exceeding  length  of 


• ' 


July.]  THE  NORTHERN  SLOPES  OF  AFRICA.  423 

some  of  its  feathers  floating  out  far  beyond  the  rest  in  both  wings.* 
Returning  home,  I found  the  men  who  had  charge  of  the  dead 


Goatsucker  (Cosmetornis  Spekii). 


buck  all  in  a state  of  excitement;  they  no  sooner  removed  his 
carcass  than  two  lions  came  out  of  the  jungle  and  lapped  his 
blood.  All  the  Waganda  ran  away  at  once;  but  my  braves 
feared  my  anger  more  than  the  lions,  and  came  off  safely  with 
the  buck  on  their  shoulders. 

23 d.  Three  boats  arrived,  like  those  used  on  the  Murchison 
Creek,  and  when  T demanded  the  rest,  as  well  as  a decisive  answer 
about  going  to  Kamrasi’s,  the  acting  mkungu  said  he  was  afraid 
accidents  might  happen,  and  he  would  not  take  me.  Nothing 
would  frighten  this  pig-headed  creature  into  compliance,  though 
I told  him  I had  arranged  with  the  king  to  make  the  Nile  the 
channel  of  communication  with  England.  I therefore  applied  to 
him  for  guides  to  conduct  me  up  the  river,  and  ordered  Bombay 
and  Kasoro  to  obtain  fresh  orders  from  the  king,  as  all  future  wa- 
zungu,  coming  to  Uganda  to  visit  or  trade,  would  prefer  the  pas- 
sage by  the  river.  I shot  another  buck  in  the  evening,  as  the 
Waganda  loved  their  skins,  and  also  a load  of  Guinea-fowl — 

* Named  by  Dr.  P.  L.  Sclater  Cosmetornis  Spekii.  The  seventh  pen  feathers  are 
double  the  length  of  the  ordinaries,  the  eighth  double  that  of  the  seventh,  and  the 
ninth  20  inches  long.  Bombay  says  the  same  bird  is  found  in  Uhiyotv. 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


424 


[1862. 


three,  four,  and  live  at  a shot — as  Kasoro  and  his  boys  prefer 
them  to  any  thing. 

24 th.  The  acting  officer  absconded,  but  another  man  came  in 
his  place,  and  offered  to  take  us  on  the  way  up  the  river  to-mor- 
row, humbugging  Kasoro  into  the  belief  that  his  road  to  the  pal- 
ace would  branch  off  from  the  first  stage,  though  in  reality  it  was 
here.  The  mkungii’s  women  brought  pombb,  and  spent  the  day 
gazing  at  us,  till,  in  the  evening,  when  I took  up  my  rifle,  one  ran 
after  Bana  to  see  him  shoot,  and  followed  like  a man ; but  the 
only  sport  she  got  was  on  an  ant-hill,  where  she  fixed  herself 
some  time,  popping  into  her  mouth  and  devouring  the  white  ants 
as  fast  as  they  emanated  from  their  cells ; for,  disdaining  does,  I 
missed  the  only  pongo  buck  I got  a shot  at  in  my  anxiety  to  show 
the  fair  one  what  she  came  for. 

Reports  came  to-day  of  new  cruelties  at  the  palace.  Kasoro 
improved  on  their  off-hand  manslaughter  by  saying  that  two 
kamravionas  and  two  sakibobos,  as  well  as  all  the  old  wakungu 
of  Sunna’s  time,  had  been  executed  by  the  orders  of  King  Mtesa. 
He  told  us,  moreover,  that  if  Mtesa  ever  has  a dream  that  his 
father  directs  him  to  kill  any  body  as  being  dangerous  to  his  per- 
son, the  order  is  religiously  kept.  I wished  to  send  a message  to 
Mtesa  by  an  officer  who  is  starting  at  once  to  pay  his  respects  at 
court ; but,  although  he  received  it,  and  promised  to  deliver  it,  Ka- 
soro laughed  at  me  for  expecting  that  one  word  of  it  would  ever 
reach  the  king ; for,  however  appropriate  or  important  the  matter 
might  be,  it  was  more  than  any  body  dare  do  to  tell  the  king,  as 
it  would  be  an  infringement  of  the  rule  that  no  one  is  to  speak  to 
him  unless  in  answer  to  a question.  My  second  buck  of  the  first 
day  was  brought  in  by  the  natives,  but  they  would  not  allow  it 
to  approach  the  hut  until  it  had  been  skinned ; and  I found  their 
reason  to  be  a superstition  that  otherwise  no  others  would  ever 
be  killed  by  the  inmates  of  that  establishment. 

I marched  up  the  left  bank  of  the  Kile,  at  a considerable  dis- 
to  Tsamba  Rap-  tance  from  the  water,  to  the  Isamba  Rapids,  passing 
ids, 25th.  through  rich  jungle  and  plantain  gardens.  Nango, 

an  old  friend,  and  district  officer  of  the  place,  first  refreshed  us 
with  a dish  of  plantain-squash  and  dried  fish,  with  pombe.  He 
told  us  he  is  often  threatened  by  elephants,  but  he  sedulously 
keeps  them  off  with  charms;  for  if  they  ever  tasted  a plantain 
they  would  never  leave  the  garden  until  they  had  cleared  it  out. 
He  then  took  us  to  see  the  nearest  falls  of  the  Kile — extremely 


July.] 


THE  NORTHERN  SLOPES  OF  AFRICA. 


425 


beautiful,  but  very  confined.  The  water  ran  deep  between  its 
banks,  which  were  covered  with  fine  grass,  soft  cloudy  acacias, 
and  festoons  of  lilac  convolvuli ; while  here  and  there,  where  the 
land  had  slipped  above  the  rapids,  bared  places  of  red  earth  could 
be  seen,  like  that  of  Devonshire;  there,  too,  the  waters,  impeded 
by  a natural  dam,  looked  like  a huge  mill-pond,  sullen  and  dark, 
in  which  two  crocodiles,  laving  about,  were  looking  out  for  prey. 
From  the  high  banks  we  looked  down  upon  a line  of  sloping- 
wooded  islets  lying  across  the  stream,  which  divide  its  waters, 
and,  by  interrupting  them,  cause  at  once  both  dam  and  rapids. 
The  whole  was  more  fairy-like,  wild,  and  romantic  than — I must 
confess  that  my  thoughts  took  that  shape — any  thing  I ever  saw 
outside  of  a theatre.  It  was  exactly  the  sort  of  place,  in  fact, 
where,  bridged  across  from  one  side-slip  to  the  other,  on  a moon- 
light night,  brigands  would  assemble  to  enact  some  dreadful  trag- 
edy. Even  the  Wanguana  seemed  spell-bound  at  the  novel  beau- 
ty of  the  sight,  and  no  one  thought  of  moving  till  hunger  warned 
us  night  was  setting  in,  and  we  had  better  look  out  for  lodgings. 

Start  again,  and  after  drinking  pombe  with  Nan  go,  when  we 

heard  that  three  wakune;u.  had  been  seized  at  Kari  in 

To  Kirindi,  26£ft.  . , ° 

consequence  ot  the  murder,  the  march  was  recom- 
menced, but  soon  after  stopped  by  the  mischievous  machinations 
of  our  guide,  who  pretended  it  was  too  late  in  the  day  to  cross 
the  jungles  on  ahead,  either  by  the  road  to  the  source  or  the  pal- 
ace, and  therefore  would  not  move  till  the  morning;  then,  leav- 
ing us  on  the  pretext  of  business,  he  vanished,  and  was  never  seen 
again.  A small  black  fly,  with  thick  shoulders  and  bullet-head, 
infests  the  place,  and  torments  the  naked  arms  and  legs  of  the 
people  with  its  sharp  stings  to  an  extent  that  must  render  life 
miserable  to  them. 

After  a long  struggling  march,  plodding  through  huge  grasses 
To  church  Es-  and  j ungle,  we  reached  a district  which  I can  not  oth- 
tate,  nth.  erwise  describe  than  by  calling  it  a “ Church  Estate.” 
It  is  dedicated  in  some  mysterious  manner  to  Liibari  (Almighty), 
and  although  the  king  appeared  to  have  authority  over  some  of 
the  inhabitants  of  it,  yet  others  had  apparently  a sacred  character, 
exempting  them  from  the  civil  power,  and  he  had  no  right  to  dis- 
pose of  the  land  itself.  In  this  territory  there  are  small  villages 
only  at  every  fifth  mile,  for  there  is  no  road,  and  the  lands  run 
high  again,  while,  from  want  of  a guide,  we  often  lost  the  track. 
It  now  transpired  that  Budja,  when  he  told  at  the  palace  that 


426 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


there  was  no  road  down  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  did  so  in  conse- 
quence of  his  fear  that  if  he  sent  my  whole  party  here  they  would 
rob  these  church  lands,  and  so  bring  him  into  a scrape  with  the 
wizards  or  ecclesiastical  authorities.  Had  my  party  not  been  un- 
der control,  we  could  not  have  put  up  here ; but  on  my  being  an- 
swerable that  no  thefts  should  take  place,  the  people  kindly  con- 
sented to  provide  us  with  board  and  lodgings,  and  we  found  them 
very  obliging.  One  elderly  man,  half-witted — they  said  the  king- 
had  driven  his  senses  from  him  by  seizing  his  house  and  family 
— came  at  once  on  hearing  of  our  arrival,  laughing  and  singing 
in  a loose,  jaunty,  maniacal  manner,  carrying  odd  sticks,  shells, 
and  a bundle  of  mbugu  rags,  which  he  deposited  before  me,  dan- 
cing and  singing  again,  then  retreating  and  bringing  some  more, 
with  a few  plantains  from  a garden,  which  I was  to  eat,  as  kings 
lived  upon  flesh,  and  “ poor  Tom”  wanted  some,  for  he  lived  with 
lions  and  elephants  in  a hovel  beyond  the  gardens,  and  his  belly 
was  empty.  He  was  precisely  a black  specimen  of  the  English 
parish  idiot. 

At  last,  with  a good  push  for  it,  crossing  hills  and  threading 
To  Ripon  Fails,  huge  grasses,  as  well  as  extensive  village  plantations 
mh • lately  devastated  by  elephants  — they  had  eaten  all 

that  was  eatable,  and  what  would  not  serve  for  food  they  had  de- 
stroyed with  their  trunks,  not  one  plantain  nor  one  hut  being  left 
entire — we  arrived  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  journey,  the  farthest 
point  ever  visited  by  the  expedition  on  the  same  parallel  of  lati- 
tude as  King  Mtesa’s  palace,  and  just  forty  miles  east  of  it. 

We  were  well  rewarded;  for  the  “stones,”  as  the  Waganda 
call  the  falls,  was  by  far  the  most  interesting  sight  I had  seen  in 
Africa.  Every  body  ran  to  see  them  at  once,  though  the  march 
had  been  long  and  fatiguing,  and  even  my  sketch-block  was  called 
into  play.  Though  beautiful,  the  scene  was  not  exactly  what  I 
expected ; for  the  broad  surface  of  the  lake  was  shut  out  from 
view  by  a spur  of  hill,  and  the  falls,  about  12  feet  deep,  and  400 
to  500  feet  broad,  were  broken  by  rocks.  Still  it  was  a sight  that 
attracted  one  to  it  for  hours— the  roar  of  the  waters,  the  thousands 
of  passenger-fish,  leaping  at  the  falls  with  all  their  might,  the  Wa- 
soga  and  Waganda  fishermen  coming  out  in  boats  and  taking  post 
on  all  the  rocks  with  rod  and  hook,  hippopotami  and  crocodiles 
lying  sleepily  on  the  water,  the  ferry  at  work  above  the  falls,  and 
cattle  driven  down  to  drink  at  the  margin  of  the  lake,  made,  in 
all,  with  the  pretty  nature  of  the  country — small  hills,  grassy-top- 


THE  RIFON  FALLS — THE  NILE  FLOWING  OUT  OF  VICTORIA  n’YANZA. 


Jolt.]  THE  NORTHERN  SLOPES  OF  AFRICA.  429 

ped,  with  trees  in  the  folds,  and  gardens  on  the  lower  slopes — as 
interesting  a picture  as  one  could  wish  to  see. 

The  expedition  had  now  performed  its  functions.  I saw  that 
old  Father  Nile  without  any  doubt  rises  in  the  Victoria  N’yanza, 
and,  as  I had  foretold,  that  lake  is  the  great  source  of  the  holy 
river  which  cradled  the  first  expounder  of  our  religious  belief.  1 
.mourned,  however,  when  I thought  how  much  I had  lost  by  the 
delays  in  the  journey  having  deprived  me  of  the  pleasure  of  go- 
ing to  look  at  the  northeast  corner  of  the  N’yanza  to  see  what 
connection  there  was,  by  the  strait  so  often  spoken  of,  with  it  and 
the  other  lake  where  the  Waganda  went  to  get  their  salt,  and 
from  which  another  river  flowed  to  the  north,  making  “ Usoga 
an  island.”  But  I felt  I ought  to  be  content  with  what  I had 
been  spared  to  accomplish ; for  I had  seen  full  half  of  the  lake, 
and  had  information  given  me  of  the  other  half,  by  means  of 
which  I knew  all  about  the  lake,  as  far,  at  least,  as  the  chief  ob- 
jects of  geographical  importance  were  concerned. 

Let  us  now  sum  up  the  whole  and  see  what  it  is  worth.  Com- 
parative information  assured  me  that  there  was  as  much  water  on 
the  eastern  side  of  the  lake  as  there  is  on  the  western — if  any 
thing,  rather  more.  The  most  remote  waters,  or  top  head  of  the 
Nile , is  the  southern  end  of  the  lake,  situated  close  on  the  third 
degree  of  south  latitude,  which  gives  to  the  Nile  the  surprising- 
length,  in  direct  measurement,  rolling  over  thirty-four  degrees  of 
latitude,  of  above  2300  miles,  or  more  than  one  eleventh  of  the 
circumference  of  our  globe.  Now  from  this  southern  point,  round 
by  the  west,  to  where  the  great  Nile  stream  issues,  there  is  only 
one  feeder  of  any  importance,  and  that  is  the  Kitangule  Biver ; 
while  from  the  southernmost  point,  round  by  the  east,  to  the 
strait,  there  are  no  rivers  at  all  of  any  importance ; for  the  trav- 
eled Arabs  one  and  all  aver,  that  from  the  west  of  the  snow-clad 
Kilimandjaro  to  the  lake  where  it  is  cut  by  the  second  degree, 
and  also  the  first  degree  of  south  latitude,  there  are  salt  lakes  and 
salt  plains,  and  the  country  is  hilly,  not  unlike  Unyamuezi ; but 
they  said  there  were  no  great  rivers,  and  the  country  was  so 
scantily  watered,  having  only  occasional  runnels  and  rivulets,  that 
they  always  had  to  make  long  marches  in  order  to  find  water 
when  they  went  on  their  trading  journeys ; and  farther,  those  Ar- 
abs who  crossed  the  strait  when  they  reached  Usoga,  as  mention- 
ed before,  during  the  late  interregnum,  crossed  no  river  either. 

There  remains  to  be  disposed  of  the  “ salt  lake,”  which  I be- 


430 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


lieve  is  not  a salt,  but  a fresh-water  lake ; and  mj  reasons  are,  as 
before  stated,  that  the  natives  call  all  lakes  salt  if  they  find  salt 
beds  or  salt  islands  in  such  places.  Dr.  Krapf,  when  he  obtained 
a sight  of  the  Kenia  Mountain,  heard  from  the  natives  there  that 
there  was  a salt  lake  to  its  northward,  and  he  also  heard  that  a 
river  ran  from  Kenia  toward  the  Nile.  If  his  information  was 
true  on  this  latter  point,  then,  without  doubt,  there  must  exist 
some  connection  between  his  river  and  the  salt  lake  I have  heard 
of,  and  this,  in  all  probability,  would  also  establish  a connection 
between  my  salt  lake  and  his  salt  lake,  which  he  heard  was  called 
Baringo.*  In  no  view  that  can  be  taken  of  it,  however,  does  this 
unsettled  matter  touch  the  established  fact  that  the  head  of  the 
Nile  is  in  3°  south  latitude,  where,  in  the  year  1858, 1 discovered 
the  head  of  the  Victoria  N’yanza  to  be. 

I now  christened  the  “stones”  Ripon  Palls,  after  the  nobleman 
who  presided  over  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  when  my  ex- 
pedition was  got  up ; and  the  arm  of  water  from  which  the  Nile 
issued,  Napoleon  Channel,  in  token  of  respect  to  the  French  Geo- 
graphical Society,  for  the  honor  they  had  done  me,  just  before 
leaving  England,  in  presenting  me  with  their  gold  medal  for  the 
discovery  of  the  Victoria  N’yanza.  One  thing  seemed  at  first 
perplexing — the  volume  of  water  in  the  Kitangule  looked  as 
large  as  that  of  the  Nile ; but  then  the  one  was  a slow  river  and 
the  other  swift,  and  on  this  account  I could  form  no  adequate 
judgment  of  their  relative  values. 

Not  satisfied  with  my  first  sketch  of  the  falls,  I could  not  resist 
Ripon  Fain,  sketching  them  again ; and  then,  as  the  cloudy  state 
mh~  of  the  weather  prevented  my  observing  for  latitude, 

and  the  officer  of  the  place  said  a magnificent  view  of  the  lake 
could  be  obtained  from  the  hill  alluded  to  as  intercepting  the 
view  from  the  falls,  we  proposed  going  there ; but  Kasoro,  who 
had  been  indulged  with  n’sunnu  antelope  skins,  and  with  Guinea- 
fowl  for  dinner,  resisted  this,  on  the  plea  that  I never  should  be 
satisfied.  There  were  orders  given  only  to  see  the  “stones,”  and 
if  he  took  me  to  one  hill  I should  wish  to  see  another  and  an- 
other, and  so  on.  It  made  me  laugh,  for  that  had  been  my  nature 
all  my  life ; but,  vexed  at  heart,  and  wishing  to  trick  the  young 
tyrant,  I asked  for  boats  to  shoot  hippopotami,  in  the  hope  of 
reaching  the  hills  to  picnic;  but  boating  had  never  been  ordered, 

* It  is  questionable  whether  or  not  this  word  is  a corruption  of  Bahr  (sea  of) 
Ingo. 


July-Adg.]  THE  NORTHERN  SLOPES  OF  AFRICA. 


431 


and  he  would  not  listen  to  it.  “ Then  bring  fish,”  I said,  that  I 
might  draw  them:  no,  that  was  not  ordered.  “Then  go  you  to 
the  palace,  and  leave  me  to  go  to  Urondogani  to-morrow,  after  I 
have  taken  a latitude;”  but  the  willful  creature  would  not  go  un- 
til he  saw  me  under  way.  And  as  nobody  would  do  any  thing 
for  me  without  Kasoro’s  orders,  I amused  the  people  by  firing  at 
the  ferry-boat  upon  the  Usoga  side,  which  they  defied  me  to  hit, 
the  distance  being  500  yards;  but,  nevertheless,  a bullet  went 
through  her,  and  was  afterward  brought  by  the  Wasoga  nicely 
folded  up  in  a piece  of  mbugu.  Bombay  then  shot  a sleeping 
crocodile  with  his  carbine,  while  I spent  the  day  out  watching  the 
falls. 

This  day  also  I spent  watching  the  fish  flying  at  the  falls,  and 
Ripon  Fails,  felt  as  if  I only  wanted  a wife  and  family,  garden  and 

mh ■ yacht,  rifle  and  rod,  to  make  me  happy  here  for  life, 

so  charming  was  the  place.  What  a place,  I thought  to  myself, 
this  would  be  for  missionaries!  They  never  could  fear  starva- 
tion, the  land  is  so  rich ; and,  if  farming  were  introduced  by  them, 
they  might  have  hundreds  of  pupils.  I need  say  no  more. 

In  addition  to  the  rod-and-line  fishing,  a number  of  men,  armed 
with  long  heavy  poles  with  two  iron  spikes,  tied  prong-fashion 
to  one  end,  rushed  to  a place  over  a break  in  the  falls,  which 
tired  fish  seemed  to  use  as  a baiting-room,  dashed  in  their  forks, 
holding  on  by  the  shaft,  and  sent  men  down  to  disengage  the 
pinned  fish  and  relieve  their  spears.  The  shot  they  make  in  this 
manner  is  a blind  one — only  on  the  chance  of  fish  being  there — 
and  therefore  always  doubtful  in  its  result. 

Church  Estate  again.  As  the  clouds  and  Kasoro’s  willfulness 
were  still  against  me,  and  the  weather  did  not  give 
hopes  of  a change,  I sacrificed  the  taking  of  the  lati- 
tude to  gain  time.  I sent  Bombay  with  Kasoro  to  the  palace, 
asking  for  the  sakibobo  himself  to  be  sent  with  an  order  for  five 
boats,  five  cows,  and  five  goats,  and  also  for  a general  order  to  go 
where  I like,  and  do  what  I like,  and  have  fish  supplied  me;  “for, 
though  I know  the  king  likes  me,  his  officers  do  not;  and  then, 
on  separating,  I retraced  my  steps  to  the  Church  Estate. 

IsL  To-day,  after  marching  an  hour,  as  there  was  now  no  need 
for  hurrying,  and  a fine  pongo  buck,  the  ngubbi  of  Uganda,  of- 
fered a tempting  shot,  I proposed  to  shoot  it  for  the  men,  and 
breakfast  in  a neighboring  village.  This  being  agreed  to,  the 
animal  was  dispatched,  and  we  no  sooner  entered  the  village  than 


Return,  31st. 


432  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [1862. 

we  heard  that  n’samma,  a magnificent  description  of  antelope, 
abound  in  the  long  grasses  close  by,  and  that  a rogue  elephant 
frequents  the  plantains  every  night.  This  tempting  news  created 
a halt.  In  the  evening  I killed  a n’samma  doe,  an  animal  very 
much  like  the  Kobus  Ellipsiprymnus,  but  without  the  lunated 
mark  over  the  rump ; and  at  night,  about  1 A.M.,  turned  out  to 
shoot  an  elephant,  which  we  distinctly  heard  feasting  on  plan- 
tains; but  rain  was  falling,  and  the  night  so  dark,  he  was  left  till 
the  morning. 

2 d.  I followed  up  the  elephant  some  way,  till  a pongo  offering 
an  irresistible  shot,  I sent  a bullet  through  him,  but  he  was  lost 
after  hours’  tracking  in  the  interminable  large  grasses.  An  enor- 
mous snake,  with  fearful  mouth  and  fangs,  wras  speared  by  the 
men.  In  the  evening  I wounded  a buck  n’samma,  which,  after 


N’samma  Antelope— Uganda. 

tracking  till  dark,  was  left  to  stiffen  ere  the  following  morning; 
and  just  after  this,  on  the  way  home,  we  heard  the  rogue  elephant 


Aug.] 


THE  NORTHERN  SLOPES  OF  AFRICA. 


433 


crunching  the  branches  not  far  off  from  the  track ; but  as  no  one 
would  dare  follow  me  against  the  monster  at  this  late  hour,  he 
was  reluctantly  left  to  do  more  injury  to  the  gardens. 

3d.  After  a warm  search  in  the  morning  we  found  the  n’samma 
buck  lying  in  some  water ; the  men  tried  to  spear  him,  but  he 
stood  at  bay,  and  took  another  bullet.  This  was  all  we  wanted, 
affording  one  good  specimen ; so,  after  breakfast,  we  marched  to 
Kirindi,  where  the  villagers,  hearing  of  the  sport  we  had  had,  and 
excited  with  the  hopes  of  getting  flesh,  begged  us  to  halt  a day. 

ith.  Not  crediting  the  stories  told  by  the  people  about  the  sport 
here,  we  packed  to  leave,  but  were  no  sooner  ready  than  several 
men  ran  hastily  in  to  say  some  fine  bucks  were  waiting  to  be  shot 
close  by.  This  was  too  powerful  a temptation  to  be  withstood ; 
so,  shouldering  the  rifle,  and  followed  by  half  the  village,  if  not 
more,  women  included,  we  went  to  the  place,  but,  instead  of  find- 
ing a buck — for  the  men  had  stretched  a point  to  keep  me  at  their 
village — we  found  a herd  of  does,  and  shot  one  at  the  people’s 
urgent  request. 

We  reached  this  in  one  stretch,  and  put  up  in  our  old  quarters, 
urondogani  where  the  women  of  Mlondo  provided  pombe,  plan- 

again,  5th.  tains,  and  potatoes,  as  before,  with  occasional  fish,  and 

we  lived  very  happily  till  the  10th,  shooting  buck,  Guinea-fowl, 
and  florikan,  when,  Bombay  and  Kasoro  arriving,  my  work  be- 
gan again.  These  two  worthies  reached  the  palace  after  crossing- 
twelve  considerable  streams,  of  which  one  was  the  Luajerri,  rising 
in  the  lake.  The  evening  of  the  next  day  after  leaving  me  at 
Kira  they  obtained  an  interview  with  the  king  immediately ; for 
the  thought  flashed  across  his  mind  that  Bombay  had  come  to  re- 
port our  death,  the  Waganda  having  been  too  much  for  the  party. 
He  was  speedily  undeceived  by  the  announcement  that  nothing 
was  the  matter  excepting  the  inability  to  procure  boats,  because 
the  officers  at  Urondogani  denied  all  authority  but  the  sakibobo’s, 
and  no  one  would  show  Bana  any  thing,  however  trifling,  without 
an  express  order  for  it. 

Irate  at  this  announcement,  the  king  ordered  the  sakibobo,  who 
happened  to  be  present,  to  be  seized  and  bound  at  once,  and  said 
warmly,  “ Pray,  who  is  the  king,  that  the  sakibobo’s  orders  should 
be  preferred  to  mine  ?”  and  then,  turning  to  the  sakibobo  himself, 
asked  what  he  would  pay  to  be  released.  The  sakibobo,  alive  to 
his  danger,  replied  at  once,  and  without  the  slightest  hesitation, 
Eighty  cows,  eighty  goats,  eighty  slaves,  eighty  mbugu,  eighty 

E E 


434 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


butter,  eighty  coffee,  eighty  tobacco,  eighty  jowari,  and  eighty  of 
all  the  produce  of  Uganda.  He  was  then  released.  Bombay  said 
Bana  wished  the  sakibobo  to  come  to  Urondogani,  and  give  him 
a start  with  five  boats,  five  cows,  and  five  goats ; to  which  the 
king  replied,  “ Bana  shall  have  all  he  wants ; nothing  shall  be  de- 
nied him,  not  even  fish ; but  it  is  not  necessary  to  send  the  saki- 
bobo, as  boys  carry  all  my  orders  to  kings  as  well  as  subjects. 
Kasoro  will  return  again  with  you,  fully  instructed  in  every  thing, 
and,  moreover,  both  he  and  Budja  will  follow  Bana  to  Grani.” 
Four  days,  however,  my  men  were  kept  at  the  palace  ere  the  king 
gave  them  the  cattle  and  leave  to  join  me,  accompanied  with  one 
more  officer,  who  had  orders  to  find  the  boats  at  once,  see  us  off, 
and  report  the  circumstance  at  court.  Just  as  at  the  last  inter- 
view, the  king  had  four  women,  lately  seized  and  condemned  to 
execution,  squatting  in  his  court.  He  wished  to  send  them  to 
Bana,  and  when  Bombay  demurred,  saying  he  had  no  authority 
to  take  women  in  that  way,  the  king  gave  him  one,  and  asked 
him  if  he  would  like  to  see  some  sport,  as  he  would  have  the  re- 
maining women  cut  to  pieces  before  him.  Bombay,  by  his  own 
account,  behaved  with  great  propriety,  saying  Bana  never  wished 
to  see  sport  of  that  cruel  kind,  and  it  would  ill  become  him  to  see 
sights  which  his  master  had  not.  Viarungi  sent  me  some  tobac- 
co, with,  kind  regards,  and  said  he  and  the  Waziuza  had  just  ob- 
tained leave  to  return  to  their  homes,  K’yengo  alone,  of  all  the 
guests,  remaining  behind  as  a hostage  until  Mtesa’s  powder-seek- 
ing wakungu  returned.  Finally,  the  little  boy  Lugoi  had  been 
sent  to  his  home.  Suck  was  the  tenor  of  Bombay’s  report. 

11th.  The  officer  sent  to  procure  boats,  impudently  saying  there 
were  none,  was  put  in  the  stocks  by  Kasoro,  while  other  men 
went  to  Kirindi  for  sailors,  and  down  the  stream  for  boats.  On 
hearing  the  king’s  order  that  I was  to  be  supplied  with  fish,  the 
fishermen  ran  away,  and  pombd  was  no  longer  brewed  from  fear 
of  Kasoro. 

12th.  To-day  we  slaughtered  and  cooked  two  cows  for  the  jour- 
ney— the  remaining  three  and  one  goat  having  been  lost  in  the 
Luajerri — and  gave  the  women  of  the  place  beads  in  return  for 
their  hospitality.  They  are  nearly  all  Wanyoro,  having  been 
captured  in  that  country  by  King  Mtesa  and  given  to  Mlondo. 
They  said  their  teeth  were  extracted,  four  to  six  lower  incisors, 
when  they  were  young,  because  no  Myoro  would  allow  a person 
to  drink  from  his  cup  unless  he  conformed  to  that  custom.  The 
same  law  exists  in  Usoga. 


Aug.] 


BA  HR  EL  ABIAD. 


435 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

BAHR  EL  ABIAD. 

First  Voyage  on  the  Nile. — The  Starting. — Description  of  the  River  and  the  Coun- 
try.— Meet  a hostile  Vessel. — A naval  Engagement. — Difficulties  and  Dangers. — 
Judicial  Procedure. — Messages  from  the  King  of  Uganda. — His  Efforts  to  get  us 
back. — Desertion. — The  Wanyoro  Troops. — Kamrasi. — Elephant-stalking.- — Dia- 
bolical Possessions. 

In  five  boats  of  five  planks  each,  tied  together  and  calked  with 
. mbugu.  rags,  I started  with  twelve  Wanguana,  Ka- 
7 soro  and  his  page -followers,  and  a small  crew,  to 

reach  Kamrasi’s  palace  in  Unyoro — goats,  dogs,  and  kit,  besides 
grain  and  dried  meat,  filling  up  the  complement — but  how  many 
days  it  would  take  nobody  knew.  Paddles  propelled  these  ves- 
sels, but  the  lazy  crew  were  slow  in  the  use  of  them,  indulging 
sometimes  in  racing  spurts,  then  composedly  resting  on  their  pad- 
dles while  the  gentle  current  drifted  us  along.  The  river,  very 
unlike  what  it  was  from  the  Ripon  Falls  downward,  bore  at  once 
the  character  of  river  and  lake — clear  in  the  centre,  but  fringed 
in  most  places  with  tall  rush,  above  which  the  green  banks  sloped 
back  like  park  lands.  It  was  all  very  pretty  and  very  interest- 
ing, and  would  have  continued  so  had  not  Kasoro  disgraced  the 
Union  Jack,  turning  it  to  piratical  purposes  in  less  than  one  hour. 

A party  of  Wanyoro,  in  twelve  or  fifteen  canoes,  made  of  single 
tree  trunks,  had  come  up  the  river  to  trade  with  the  Wasoga,  and 
having  stored  their  vessels  with  mbugu,  dried  fish,  plantains 
cooked  and  raw,  pombe,  and  other  things,  were  taking  their  last 
meal  on  shore  before  they  returned  to  their  homes.  Kasoro  see- 
ing this,  and  bent  on  a boyish  spree,  quite  forgetting  we  were 
bound  for  the  very  ports  they  were  bound  for,  ordered  our  sailors 
to  drive  in  among  them,  landed  himself,  and  sent  the  Wanyoro 
flying  before  I knew  what  game  was  up,  and  then  set  to  pillaging 
and  feasting  on  the  property  of  those  very  men  whom  it  was 
our  interest  to  propitiate,  as  we  expected  them  shortly  to  be  our 
hosts. 

The  ground  we  were  on  belonged  to  King  Mtdsa,  being  a de- 


436 


TIIE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[18G2. 


pendency  of  Uganda,  and  it  struck  me  as  singular  that  Wanyoro 
should  be  found  here ; but  I no  sooner  discovered  the  truth  than 
I made  our  boatmen  disgorge  every  thing  they  had  taken,  called 
back  the  Wanyoro  to  take  care  of  their  things,  and  extracted  a 
promise  from  Kasoro  that  he  would  not  practice  such  wicked 
tricks  again,  otherwise  we  could  not  travel  together.  Getting  to 
boat  again,  after  a very  little  paddling  we  pulled  in  to  shore,  on 
the  Uganda  side,  to  stop  for  the  night,  and  thus  allowed  the  in- 
jured Wanyoro  to  go  down  the  river  before  us.  I was  much  an- 
noyed by  this  interruption,  but  no  argument  would  prevail  on 
Kasoro  to  go  on.  This  was  the  last  village  on  the  Uganda  front- 
ier, and  before  we  could  go  any  farther  in  boats  it  would  be  neces- 
sary to  ask  leave  of  Kamrasi’s  frontier  officer,  N’yamyonjo,  to  en- 
ter Unyoro.  The  Wanguana  demanded  ammunition  in  the  most 
imperious  manner,  while  I,  in  the  same  tone,  refused  to  issue  any, 
lest  a row  should  take  place,  and  they  then  would  desert,  alluding 
to  their  dastardly  desertion  in  Msalala  when  Grant  was  attacked. 
If  a fight  should  take  place,  I said  they  must  flock  to  me  at  once, 
and  ammunition,  which  was  always  ready,  would  be  served  out 
to  them.  They  laughed  at  this,  and  asked,  Who  would  stop  with 
me  when  the  fight  began?  This  was  making  a jest  of  what  I 
was  most  afraid  of — that  they  would  all  run  away. 

I held  a levee  to  decide  on  the  best  manner  of  proceeding. 

The  Waganda  wanted  us  to  stop  for  the  day  and 

Down  the  Nile  ° . 1 J 

i^d  haek  again,  feel  the  way  gently,  arguing  that  etiquette  demands 
it.  Then,  trying  to  terrify  mfe,  they  said  N’yam- 
yonjo had  a hundred  boats,  and  would  drive  us  back  to  a cer- 
tainty if  we  tried  to  force  past  them,  if  he  were  not  first  spoken 
with,  as  the  Waganda  had  often  tried  the  passage  and  been  re- 
pulsed. On  the  other  band,  I argued  that  Grant  must  have  ar- 
rived long  ago  at  Kamrasi’s,  and  removed  all  these  difficulties  for 
us ; but,  I said,  if  they  would  send  men,  let  Bombay  start  at  once 
by  land,  and  we  will  follow  in  boats,  after  giving  him  time  to  say 
we  are  coming.  This  point  gained  after  a hot  debate,  Bombay 
started  at  10  A.M.,  and  we  not  till  5 P.M.,  it  being  but  one  hour’s 
journey  by  water.  The  frontier  line  was  soon  crossed;  and 
then  both  sides  of  the  river,  Usoga  as  well  as  Unyoro,  belong  to 
Kamrasi. 

I flattered  myself  all  my  walking  this  journey  was  over,  and 
there  was  nothing  left  but  to  float  quietly  down  the  Nile,  for 
Ividgwiga  had  promised  boats,  on  Kamrasi’s  account,  from  Un- 


Aug.] 


BAHR  EL  ABIAD. 


437 


yoro  to  Gani,  where  Petherick’s  vessels  were  said  to  be  stationed; 
but  this  hope  shared  the  fate  of  so  many  others  in  Africa.  In  a 
little  while  an  enormous  canoe,  full  of  well-dressed  and  well- 
armed  men,  was  seen  approaching  us.  We  worked  on,  and  found 
they  turned,  as  if  afraid.  Our  men  paddled  faster,  they  did  the 
same,  the  pages  keeping  time  playfully  by  beat  of  drum,  until  at 
last  it  became  an  exciting  chase,  won  by  the  Wanyoro  by  their 
superior  numbers.  The  sun  was  now  setting  as  we  approached 
N’yamyonjo’s.  On  a rock  by  the  river  stood  a number  of  armed 
men,  jumping,  jabbering,  and  thrusting  with  their  spears,  just  as 
the  Waganda  do.  I thought,  indeed,  they  were  Waganda  doing 
this  to  welcome  us ; but  a glance  at  Kasoro’s  glassy  eyes  told  me 
such  was  not  the  case,  but,  on  the  contrary,  their  language  and 
gestures  were  threats,  defying  us  to  land. 

The  bank  of  the  river,  as  we  advanced,  then  rose  higher,  and 
was  crowned  with  huts  and  plantations,  before  which  stood 
groups  and  lines  of  men,  all  fully  armed.  Farther,  at  this  junc- 
ture, the  canoe  we  had  chased  turned  broadside  on  us,  and  joined 
in  the  threatening  demonstrations  of  the  people  on  shore.  I could 
not  believe  them  to  be  serious — thought  they  had  mistaken  us — 
and  stood  up  in  the  boat  to  show  myself,  hat  in  hand.  I said  I 
was  an  Englishman  going  to  Kamrasi’s,  and  did  all  I could,  but 
without  creating  the  slightest  impression.  They  had  heard  a 
drum  beat,  they  said,  and  that  was  a signal  of  war,  so  war  it  should 
be ; and  Kamrasi’s  drums  rattled  up  both  sides  the  river,  prepar- 
ing every  body  to  arm.  This  was  serious.  Farther,  a second 
canoe  full  of  armed  men  issued  out  from  the  rushes  behind  us, 
as  if  with  a view  to  cut  off  our  retreat,  and  the  one  in  front  ad- 
vanced upon  us,  hemming  us  in.  To  retreat  together  seemed  our 
only  chance;  but  it  was  getting  dark,  and  my  boats  were  badly 
manned.  I gave  the  order  to  close  together  and  retire,  offering 
ammunition  as  an  incentive,  and  all  came  to  me  but  one  boat, 
which  seemed  so  paralyzed  with  fright  it  kept  spinning  round 
and  round  like  a crippled  duck. 

The  Wanyoro,  as  they  saw  us  retreating,  were  now  heard  to 
say,  “They  are  women- — -they  are  running — let  us  at  them;” 
while  I kept  roaring  to  my  men,  “ Keep  together — come  for  pow- 
der ;”  and  myself  loaded  with  small  shot,  which  even  made  Ka- 
soro  laugh  and  inquire  if  it  was  intended  for  the  Wanyoro. 
“Yes,  to  shoot  them  like  Guinea-fowl;  and  he  laughed  again. 
But  confound  my  men ! they  would  not  keep  together,  and  re- 


438 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


treat  with  me.  One  of  those  served  with  ammunition  went  as 
hard  as  he  could  go  up  stream  to  be  out  of  harm’s  way,  and  an- 
other preferred  hugging  the  dark  shade  of  the  rushes  to  keeping 
the  clear  open,  which  I desired  for  the  benefit  of  our  guns.  It 
was  now  getting  painfully  dark,  and  the  Wanyoro  were  stealing 
on  us,  as  we  could  hear,  though  nothing  could  be  seen.  Present- 
ly the  shade-seeking  boat  was  attacked,  spears  were  thrown,  for- 
tunately into  the  river  instead  of  into  our  men,  and  grappling- 
hooks  were  nsed  to  link  the  boats  together.  My  men  cried, 
“Help,  Bana!  they  are  killing  us;”  while  I roared  to  my  crew, 
“Go  in,  go  in,  and  the  victory  will  be  ours;”  but  not  a soul  would: 
they  were  spell-bound  to  the  place ; we  might  have  been  cut  up 
in  detail;  it  was  all  the  same  to  those  cowardly  Waganda,  whose 
only  action  consisted  in  crying  “N’yawo!  n’yawo!” — Mother, 
mother,  help  us! 

Three  shots  from  the  hooked  boat  now  finished  the  action. 
The  Wanyoro  had  caught  a Tartar.  Two  of  their  men  fell — one 
killed,  one  wounded.  They  were  heard  saying  their  opponents 
were  not  Waganda;  it  were  better  to  leave  them  alone;  and  re- 
treated, leaving  us,  totally  uninjured,  a clear  passage  up  the  river. 
But  where  was  Bombay  all  this  while?  He  did  not  return  till 
after  us,  and  then,  in  considerable  excitement,  he  told  his  tale. 
He  reached  N’yamyonjo’s  village  before  noon,  asked  for  the  offi- 
cer, but  was  desired  to  wait  in  a hut  until  the  chief  should  arrive, 
as  he  had  gone  out  on  business ; the  villagers  inquired,  however, 
why  we  had  robbed  the  Wanyoro  yesterday,  for  they  had  laid  a 
complaint  against  us.  Bombay  replied  it  was  no  fault  of  Bana’s ; 
he  did  every  thing  he  conld  to  prevent  it,  and  returned  all  that 
the  boatmen  took. 

These  men  then  departed,  and  did  not  return  until  evening, 
when  they  asked  Bombay,  impudently,  why  he  was  sitting  there, 
as  he  had  received  no  invitation  to  spend  the  night ; and,  unless 
he  walked  off  soon,  they  would  set  fire  to  his  hut.  Bombay, 
without  the  smallest  intention  of  moving,  said  he  had  orders 
to  see  N’yamyonjo,  and  until  he  did  so  he  would  not  budge. 
“Well,”  said  the  people,  “you  have  got  your  warning,  now  look 
out  for  yourselves;”  and  Bombay,  with  his  Waganda  escort,  was 
left  again.  Brums  then  began  to  beat,  and  men  to  hurry  to  and 
fro  with  spears  and  shields,  until  at  last  our  guns  were  heard,  and, 
guessing  the  cause,  Bombay  with  his  Waganda  escort  rushed  out 
of  the  hut  into  the  jungle,  and,  without  daring  to  venture  on  the 


Aug.]  BAHR  EL  ABIAf).  439 

beaten  track,  through  thorns  and  thicket  worked  his  way  back  to 
me,  lame,  and  scratched  all  over  with  thorns. 

Crowds  of  Waganda,  all  armed  as  if  for  war,  came  to  congratu- 
Ret'um  to  KiwS-  late  us  in  tlie  morning,  jumping,  jabbering,  and  shak- 
kcn,  i5tk.  iQg  their  spears  at  us,  denoting  a victory  gained — for 
we  had  shot  Wanyoro  and  no  harm  had  befallen  us.  “But  the 
road,”  I cried,  “ has  that  been  gained?  I am  not  going  to  show 
my  back.  We  must  go  again,  for  there  is  some  mistake;  Grant 
is  with  Kamrasi,  and  N’yamyonjo  can  not  stop  us.  If  you  won’t 
go  in  boats,  let  us  go  by  land  to  N’yamyonjo’s,  and  the  boats  will 
follow  after.”  Not  a soul,  however,  would  stir.  N’yamyonjo 
was  described  as  an  independent  chief,  who  listened  to  Kamrasi 
only  when  he  liked.  He  did  not  like  strange  eyes  to  see  his  se- 
cret lodges  on  the  N’yanza ; and  if  he  did  not  wish  us  to  go  down 
the  river,  Kamrasi’s  orders  would  go  for  nothing.  His  men  had 
now  been  shot ; to  go  within  his  reach  would  be  certain  death. 
Argument  was  useless,  boating  slow,  to  send  messages  worse ; so 
I gave  in,  turned  my  back  on  the  Nile,  and  the  following  day 
(16th)  came  on  the  Luajerri. 

Here,  to  my  intense  surprise,  I heard  that  Grant’s  camp  was 
not  far  off,  on  its  return  from  Kamrasi’s.  I could  not,  rather 
would  not,  believe  it,  suspicious  as  it  now  appeared  after  my  re- 
verse. The  men,  however,  were  positive,  and  advised  my  going 
to  King  Mt&a’s — a ridiculous  proposition,  at  once  rejected;  for  I 
had  yet  to  receive  Kamrasi’s  answer  to  our  queen  about  opening 
a trade  with  England.  I must  ascertain  why  he  despised  English- 
men without  speaking  with  them,  and  I could  not  believe  Kam- 
rasi would  prove  less  avaricious  than  either  Rumanika  or  Mtesa, 
especially  as  Rumanika  had  made  himself  responsible  for  our  ac- 
tions. We  slept  that  night  near  Kari,  the  Waganda  eating  two 
goats  which  had  been  drowned  in  the  Luajerri ; and  the  messen- 
ger-page, having  been  a third  time  to  the  palace  and  back  again, 
called  to  ask  after  our  welfare  on  behalf  of  his  king,  and  remind 
us  about  the  gun  and  brandy  promised. 

17 th  and  18th.  The  two  following  days  were  spent  wandering 
about  without  guides,  trying  to  keep  the  track  Grant  had  taken 
after  leaving  us,  crossing  at  first  a line  of  small  hills,  then  traver- 
sing grass  and  jungle,  like  the  dak  of  India.  Plantain  gardens 
were  frequently  met,  and  the  people  seemed  very  hospitably  in- 
clined, though  they  complained  sadly  of  the  pages  rudely  rushing 
into  every  hut,  seizing  every  thing  they  could  lay  their  hands  on, 


440 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


and  even  eating  the  food  which  they  had  just  prepared  for  their 
own  dinners,  saying,  in  a mournful  manner,  “If  it  were  not  out 
of  respect  for  you  we  should  fight  those  little  rascals,  for  it  is  not 
the  king’s  guest  nor  his  men  who  do  us  injury,  but  the  king’s 
own  servants,  without  leave  or  license.”  I observed  that  special 
bomas  or  fences  were  erected  to  protect  these  villages  against  the 
incursions  of  lions.  Buffaloes  were  about,  but  the  villagers  cau- 
tioned us  not  to  shoot  them,  holding  them  as  sacred  animals ; 
and,  to  judge  from  the  appearance  of  the  country,  wild  animals 
should  abound,  were  it  not  for  the  fact  that  every  Mganda  seems 
by  instinct  to  be  a sportsman. 

At  last,  after  numerous  and  various  reports  about  Grant,  we 
To  N*yakinyama,  heard  his  drums  last  night,  but  arrived  this  morning 
mh'  just  in  time  to  be  too  late.  He  was  on  his  march 

back  to  the  capital  of  Uganda,  as  the  people  had  told  us,  and 
passed  through  N’yakinyama  just  before  I reached  it.  What  had 
really  happened  I knew  not,  and  was  puzzled  to  think.  To  insist 
on  a treaty,  demanding  an  answer  to  the  queen,  seemed  the  only 
chance  left ; so  I wrote  to  Grant  to  let  me  know  all  about  it,  and 
waited  the  result.  He  very  obligingly  came  himself,  said  he  left 
Unyoro  after  stopping  there  an  age  asking  for  the  road  without 
effect,  and  left  by  the  orders  of  Kamrasi,  thinking  obedience  the 
better  policy  to  obtain  our  ends.  Two  great  objections  had  been 
raised  against  us';  one  was  that  we  were  reported  to  be  cannibals, 
and  the  other  that  our  advancing  by  two  roads  at  once  was  sus- 
picious, the  more  especially  so  as  the  Waganda  were  his  enemies; 
had  we  come  from  Rumanika  direct,  there  would  have  been  no 
objection  to  us. 

When  all  was  duly  considered,  it  appeared  evident  to  me  that 
the  great  king  of  Unyoro,  “ the  father  of  all  the  kings,”  was  mere- 
ly a nervous,  fidgety  creature,  half  afraid  of  us  because  we  were 
attempting  his  country  by  the  unusual  mode  of  taking  two  routes 
at  once,  but  wholly  so  of  the  Waganda,  who  had  never  ceased 
plundering  his  country  for  years.  As  it  appeared  that  he  would 
have  accepted  us  had  we  come  by  the  friendly  route  of  Kisuere, 
a farther  parley  was  absolutely  necessary,  and  the  more  especially 
so  as  now  we  were  all  together  and  in  Uganda,  which,  in  conse- 
quence, must  relieve  him  from  the  fear  of  our  harboring  evil  de- 
signs against  him.  No  one  present,  however,  could  be  prevailed 
on  to  go  to.  him  in  the  capacity  of  embassador,  as  the  frontier  of- 
ficer had  warned  the  wageni  or  guests  that,  if  they  ever  attempted 


Atjg.] 


BAHR  EL  ABIAD. 


441 


to  cross  the  border  again,  he  was  bound  in  duty,  agreeably  to  the 
orders  of  his  king,  to  expel  them  by  force ; therefore,  should  the 
wageni  attempt  it  after  this  warning,  their  first  appearance  would 
be  considered  a ca-sus  belli;  and  so  the  matter  rested  for  the  day. 

To  make  the  best  of  a bad  bargain,  and  as  K’yakinyama  was 
To  Grant’s  “eaten  up,”  we  repaired  to  Grant’s  camp  to  consult 

camp, 20th.  with  Budja ; but  Budja  was  found  firm  and  inflexible 

against  sending  men  to  Unyoro.  His  pride  had  been  injured  by 
the  rebuffs  we  had  sustained.  He  would  wait  here  three  or  four 
days  as  I proposed,  to  see  what  fortune  sent  us,  if  I would  not  be 
convinced  that  Kamrasi  wished  to  reject  us,  and  he  would  com- 
municate with  his  king  in  the  mean  while,  but  nothing  more. 
Here  was  altogether  a staggerer : I would  stop  for  three  or  four 
days,  but  if  Kamrasi  would  not  have  us  by  that  time,  what  was 
to  be  done?  Would  it  be  prudent  to  try  Kisuere  now  Baraka 
had  been  refused  the  Gani  route  ? or  would  it  not  be  better  still 
for  me  to  sell  Kamrasi  altogether  by  offering  Mtesa  five  hundred 
loads  of  ammunition,  cloth,  and  beads,  if  he  would  give  us  a thou- 
sand Waganda  as  a force  to  pass  through  the  Masai  to  Zanzibar, 
this  property  to  be  sent  back  by  the  escort  from  the  coast?  Kam- 
rasi would  no  doubt  catch  it  if  we  took  this  course,  but  it  was  ex- 
pensive. 

Thus  were  we  ruminating,  when,  lo,  to  our  delight,  as  if  they 
had  been  listening  to  us,  up  came  Kidgwiga,  my  old  friend,  who, 
at  Mtesa’s  palace,  had  said  Kamrasi  would  be  very  glad  to  see 
me,  and  Vittagura,  Kamrasi’s  commander-in-chief,  to  say  their 
king  was  very  anxious  to  see  us,  and  the  Waganda  might  come 
or  not,  as  they  liked.  Until  now,  the  deputation  said,  Kamrasi 
had  doubted  Budja’s  word  about  our  friendly  intentions,  but 
since  he  saw  us  withdrawing  from  his  country,  those  doubts  were 
removed.  The  U’yanswenge,  they  said — meaning,  I thought, 
Petherick — was  still  at  Gani ; no  English  or  others  on  the  Kile 
ever  expressed  a wish  to  enter  Unyoro,  otherwise  they  might 
have  done  so ; and  Baraka  had  left  for  Karague,  carrying  off  an 
ivory  as  a present  from  Kamrasi. 

21sit  I ordered  the  march  to  Unyoro ; Budja,  however,  kept 
brooding  over  the  message  sent  to  the  Waganda,  to  the  effect  that 
they  might  come  or  not,  as  they  liked ; and  considering  us,  with 
himself,  to  have  all  been  treated  “ like  dogs,”  begged  me  to  give 
him  my  opinion  as  to  what  course  he  had  better  pursue ; for  he 
must,  in  the  first  instance,  report  the  whole  circumstances  to  the 


442 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


king,  and  could  not  march  at  once.  This  was  a blight  on  our 
prospects,  and  appeared  very  vexatious,  in  the  event  of  Budja 
waiting  for  an  answer,  which,  considering  Mtesa  had  ordered  his 
wakungu  to  accompany  us  all  the  way  to  Gani,  might  stop  our 
march  altogether. 

I therefore  argued  that  Kamrasi’s  treatment  of  us  was  easily 
accounted  for:  he  heard  of  us  coming  by  two  routes  from  an 
enemy’s  country,  and  was  naturally  suspicious  of  us ; that  had 
now  been  changed  by  our  withdrawing,  and  he  invited  us  to  him. 
Without  doubt,  his  commander-in-chief  was  never  very  far  away, 
and  followed  on  our  heels.  Such  precaution  was  only  natural 
and  reasonable  on  Kamrasi’s  part,  and  what  had  been  done  need 
not  alarm  any  one.  “If  you  do  your  duty  properly,  you  will 
take  us  at  once  into  Unyoro,  make  your  charge  over  to  these 
men,  and  return  or  not,  as  you  like;  for  in  doing  so  you  will  have 
fulfilled  both  Mtesa’ s and  Kamrasi’s  orders  at  once.”  “Very 
good,”  says  Budja;  “let  it  be  so;  for  there  is  great  wisdom  in 
your  words;  but  I must  first  send  to  my  king,  for  the  Waganda 
villagers  have  struck  two  of  your  men  with  weapons”  (this  had 
happened  just  before  my  arrival  here),  “and  this  is  a most  heinous 
offense  in  Uganda,  which  can  not  be  overlooked.  Had  it  been 
done  with  a common  stick,  it  could  have  been  overlooked ; but 
the  use  of  weapons  is  an  offense,  and  both  parties  must  go  before 
the  king.”  This,  of  course,  was  objected  to  on  the  plea  that  it 
was  my  own  affair.  I was  king  of  the  Wan  guana,  and  might 
choose  to  dispense  with  the  attendance.  The  matter  was  com- 
promised, however,  on  the  condition  that  Budja  should  march 
across  the  border  to-morrow,  and  wait  for  the  return  of  these  men 
and  for  farther  orders  on  the  Unyoro  side. 

The  bait  took.  Budja  lost  sight  of  the  necessity  there  was  for 
his  going  to  Gani  to  bring  back  a gun,  ammunition,  and  some 
medicine — that  is  to  say,  brandy— for  his  king,  and  sent  his  men 
off  with  mine  to  tell  Mtesa  all  our  adventures — our  double  re- 
pulse, the  intention  to  wait  on  the  Unyoro  side  for  farther  orders, 
and  the  account  of  some  Waganda  having  wounded  my  men.  I 
added  my  excuses  for  Kamrasi,  and  laid  a complaint  against 
Mtdsa’s  officers  for  having  defrauded  us  out  of  ten  cows,  five 
goats,  six  butter,  and  sixty  mbugu.  It  was  not  that  we  required 
these  things,  but  I knew  that  the  king  had  ordered  them  to  be 
given  to  us,  and  I thought  it  right  we  should  show  that  his  offi- 
cers, if  they  professed  to  obey  his  orders,  had  peculated.  After 


Aug.] 


BAHR  EL  ABIAD. 


443 


these  men  had  started,  some  friends  of  the  villager  who  had  been 
apprehended  on  the  charge  of  assailing  my  men  came  and  offered 
Budja  five  cows  to  overlook  the  charge;  and  Budja,  though  he 
could  not  overlook  it  when  I pleaded  for  the  man,  asked  me  to 
recall  my  men.  Discovering  that  the  culprit  was  a queen’s  man, 
and  that  the  affair  would  cause  bad  blood  at  court  should  the  king 
order  the  man’s  life  to  be  taken,  I tried  to  do  so,  but  things  had 
gone  too  far. 

Again  the  expedition  marched  on  in  the  right  direction.  We 
reached  the  last  village  on  the  Uganda  frontier,  and 

To  North  Front-  . , ’ 

ter  station,  there  spent  the  night.  Here  Grant  shot  a n sunnu. 

Uganda,  2 id.  U __  A . . „ 

buck.  The  W anguana  mutinied  tor  ammunition, 
and  would  not  lift  a load  until  they  got  it,  saying,  “ Unyoro  is  a 
dangerous  country,”  though  they  had  been  there  before  without 
any  more  than  they  now  had  in  pouch.  The  fact  was,  my  men, 
in  consequence  of  the  late  issues  on  the  river,  happened  to  have 
more  than  Grant’s  men,  and  every  man  must  have  alike.  The 
ringleader,  unfortunately  for  himself,  had  lately  fired  at  a dead 
lion,  to  astonish  the  Unyoro,  and  his  chum  had  fired  a salute, 
which  was  contrary  to  orders ; for  ammunition  was  at  a low  ebb, 
and  I had  done  every  thing  in  my  power  to  nurse  it.  Therefore, 
as  a warning  to  the  others,  the  guns  of  these  two  were  confiscated, 
and  a caution  given  that  any  gun  in  future  let  off,  either  by  de- 
sign or  accident,  would  be  taken. 

To-day  I felt  very  thankful  to  get  across  the  much -vexed 
boundary -line,  and  enter  Unyoro,  guided  by  Kam- 

To  South  Front-  J J it 

ler  station,  Un-  rasi  s deputation  of  officers,  and  so  shake  on  the  ap- 
prehensions which  had  teased  us  for  so  many  days. 
This  first  march  was  a picture  of  all  the  country  to  its  capital:  an 
interminable  forest  of  small  trees,  bush,  and  tall  grass,  with  scanty 
villages,  low  huts.,  and  dirty -looking  people  clad  in  skins;  the 
plantain,  sweet  potato,,  sesamum,  and  ulezi  (millet)  forming  the 
chief  edibles,  besides  goats  and  fowls  ; while  the  cows,  which  are 
reported  to  be  numerous,  being  kept,  as  every  where  else  where 
pasture-lands  are  good,  by  the  wandering,  unsociable  Wahuma, 
are  seldom  seen.  No  hills,  except  a few  scattered  cones,  disturb 
the  level  surface  of  the  land,  and  no  pretty  views  ever  cheer  the 
eye.  Uganda  is  now  entirely  left  behind ; we  shall  not  see  its 
like  again , for  the  farther  one  leaves  the  equator,  and  the  rain- 
attracting  influences  of  the  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  vegetation  de- 
creases proportionately  with  the  distance. 


444 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


Fortunately,  the  frontier  village  could  not  feed  so  large  a party 
to  KMgwiga’s,  as  ours,  and  therefore  we  were  compelled  to  move 
farther  on,  to  our  great  delight,  through  the  same 
style  of  forest  acacia,  cactus,  and  tall  grass,  to  Kidgwiga’s  gardens, 
where  we  no  sooner  arrived  than  Mtesa’s  messenger-page,  with  a 
party  of  fifty  Waganda,  dropped  in,  in  the  most  unexpected  man- 
ner, to  inquire  after  “his  royal  master’s  friend,  Bana.”  The  king 
had  heard  of  the  fight  upon  the  river,  and  thought  the  Wanguana 
must  be  very  good  shots.  He  still  trusted  we  would  not  forget 
the  gun  and  ammunition,  but,  above  all,  the  load  of  stimulants, 
for  he  desired  that  above  all  things  on  earth.  This  was  the 
fourth  message  to  remind  us  of  these  important  matters  which  we 
had  received  since  leaving  his  gracious  presence,  and  each  time 
brought  by  the  same  page.  While  the  purpose  of  the  boy’s  com- 
ing with  so  many  men  was  not  distinctly  known,  the  whole  vil- 
lage and  camp  were  in  a state  of  great  agitation,  Budja  fearing 
lest  the  king  had  some  fault  to  find  with  his  work,  and  the  Wan- 
yoro  deeming  it  a menace  of  war,  while  I was  afraid  they  might 
take  fright  and  stop  our  progress. 

But  all  went  well  in  the  end  ; Massey’s  log,  which  I have  men- 
tioned as  a present  I intended  for  Mtesa,  was  packed  up,  and  the 
page  departed  with  it.  Some  of  Rixmanika’s  men,  who  came  into 
IJnyoro  with  Baraka,  with  four  of  K’yengo’s,  were  sent  to  call  us 
by  Kamrasi.  Through  Rumanika’s  men  it  transpired  that  he 
had  stood  security  for  our  actions,  else,  with  the  many  evil  reports 
of  our  being  cannibals  and  suchlike,  which  had  preceded  our 
coming  here,  we  never  should  have  gained  admittance  to  the 
country.  The  Wanyoro,  who  are  as  squalid-looking  as  the  Wan- 
yamuezi,  and  almost  as  badly  dressed,  now  came  about  us  to  hawk 
ivory  ornaments,  brass  and  copper  twisted  wristlets,  tobacco,  and 
salt,  which  they  exchanged  for  cowries,  with  which  they  purchase 
cows  from  the  Waganda.  As  in  Uganda,  all  the  villagers  forsook 
their  huts  as  soon  as  they  heard  the  wageni  (guests)  were  coming; 
and  no  one  paid  the  least  attention  to  the  traveler  save  the  few 
head  men  attached  to  the  escort,  or  some  professional  traders. 

25 th  to  28th,  I had  no  sooner  ordered  the  march  than  Vittagu- 
ra  counterordered  it,  and  held  a levee  to  ascertain,  as  he  said,  if 
the  Waganda  were  to  go  back;  for,  though  Kamrasi  wished  to 
see  us,  he  did  not  want  the  Waganda.  It  was  Kamrasi’s  orders 
that  Budja  should  tell  this  to  his  “child  the  mkavia,”  meaning 
Mtesa;  for  when  the  Waganda  came  the  first  time  to  see  him, 


Aug.] 


BAHR  EL  ABIAD. 


445 


three  of  his  family  died ; and  when  they  came  the  second  time, 
three  more  died ; and  as  this  rate  of  mortality  was  quite  unusual 
in  his  family  circle,  he  could  only  attribute  it  to  foul  magic.  The 
presence  of  people  who  brought  such  results  was  of  course  by  no 
means  desirable.  This  neat  message  elicited  a declaration  of  the 
necessity  of  Budja’s  going  to  Gani  with  us,  and  a response  from 
the  commander-in-chief,  probably  to  terrify  the  Waganda,  that  al- 
though Gani  was  only  nine  days’  journey  distant  from  Kamrasi’s 
palace,  the  Gani  people  were  such  barbarians,  they  would  call  a 
straight-haired  man  a magician,  and  any  person  who  tied  his 
mbugu  in  a knot  upon  his  shoulder,  or  had  a full  set  of  teeth,  as 
the  Waganda  have,  would  be  surely  killed  by  them.  Finally,  we 
must  wait  two  days,  to  see  if  Kamrasi  would  see  us  or  not.  Such 
was  Unyoro  diplomacy. 

An  announcement  of  a different  kind  immediately  followed. 
The  king  had  heard  that  I gave  a cow  to  Vittagura  and  Kidgwi- 
ga  when  they  first  came  to  me  in  Uganda,  and  wished  the  Wan- 
yamuezi  to  ascertain  if  this  was  true.  Of  course,  I said  they  were 
my  guests  in  Uganda,  and  if  they  had  been  wise  they  would  have 
eaten  their  cow  on  the  spot ; what  was  that  to  Kamrasi  ? It  was 
a pity  he  did  not  treat  us  as  well  who  have  come  into  his  coun- 
try at  his  own  invitation,  instead  of  keeping  us  starving  in  this 
gloomy  wilderness,  without  a drop  of  pombe  to  cheer  the  day ; 
why  could  not  he  let  us  go  on  ? He  wanted  first  to  hear  if  the 
big  mzungii,  meaning  myself,  had  really  come  yet.  All  fudge ! 

Three  days  were  spent  in  simply  waiting  for  return  messages 
on  both  sides,  and  more  might  have  been  lost  in  the  same  way, 
only  we  amused  Vittagura  and  gave  him  confidence  by  showing 
our  pictures,  looking-glass,  scissors,  knives,  etc.,  when  he  promised 
a march  in  the  morning,  leaving  a man  behind  to  bring  on  the 
Wanguana  sent  to  Mtesa’s,  it  being  the  only  alternative  which 
would  please  Budja;  for  he  said  there  was  no  security  for  life  in 
Unyoro,  where  every  mkungu  calls  himself  the  biggest  man,  and 
no  true  hospitality  is  to  be  found. 

The  nest  two  days  took  us  through  Chagamoyo  to  Kiratosi, 
ToChagamoyo,  by  the  aicl  of  the  compass  ; for  the  route  Kamrasi’s 
to  Kiratosi,  10611  took  differed  from  the  one  which  Budja  knew, 
m,u  and  he  declared  the  Wanyoro  were  leading  us  into  a 

trap,  and  would  not  be  convinced  that  we  were  going  on  all  right 
till  I pulled  out  the  compass  and  confirmed  the  Wanyoro.  We 
were  any  thing  but  welcomed  at  Kiratosi,  the  people  asking  by 


446 


TIIE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


what  bad  luck  we  had  come  there  to  eat  up  their  crops ; but  in  a 
little  while  they  flocked  to  our  doors  and  admired  our  traps,  re- 
marking that  they  believed  each  iron  box  contained  a couple  of 
white  dwarfs,  which  we  carry  on  our  shoulders,  sitting  straddle- 
legs,  back  to  back,  and  they  fly  off  to  eat  people  whenever  they 
get  the  order.  One  of  these  visitors  happened  to  be  the  sister  of 
one  of  my  men,  named  Baruti,  who  no  sooner  recognized  her 
brother  than,  without  saying  a word,  she  clasped  her  head  with 
her  hands,  and  ran  off,  crying,  to  tell  her  husband  what  she  had 
seen.  A spy  of  Kamrasi  dropped  the  report  that  the  Wanguana 
were  returning  from  Mtesa’s,  and  hurried  on  to  tell  his  king. 

31sL  Some  Waganda  hurrying  in,  confirmed  the  report  of  last 
night,  and  said  the  Wanguana,  footsore,  had  been  left  at  the 
Uganda  frontier,  expecting  us  to  return,  as  Mtesa,  at  the  same 
time  that  he  approved  highly  of  my  having  sent  men  back  to  in- 
form him  of  Kamrasi’s  conduct,  begged  we  would  instantly  return, 
even  if  found  within  one  march  of  Kamrasi’s,  for  he  had  much 
of  importance  to  tell  his  friend  Bana.  The  message  continued  to 
this  effect : I need  be  under  no  apprehensions  about  the  road  to 
the  coast,  for  he  would  give  me  as  many  men  as  I liked;  and, 
fearing  I might  be  short  of  powder,  he  had  sent  some  with  the 
Wanguana.  Both  Wanguana  were  by  the  king  given  women 
for  their  services,  and  an  old  tin  cartridge-box  represented  Mtesa’s 
card,  it  being  an  article  of  European  manufacture,  which,  if  found 
in  the  possession  of  any  Mganda,  would  be  certain  death  to  him. 
Finally,  all  the  houses  and  plantains  where  my  men  were  wound- 
ed had  been  confiscated. 

When  this  message  was  fully  delivered,  Budja  said  we  must  re- 
turn without  a day’s  delay.  I,  on  the  contrary,  called  up  Kidg- 
wiga.  I did  not  like  my  men  having  been  kept  prisoners  in 
Uganda,  and  pronounced  in  public  that  I would  not  return.  It 
would  be  an  insult  to  Kamrasi  my  doing  so,  for  I was  now  in  his 
“ house”  at  his  own  invitation.  I wished  Bombay  would  go  with 
him  (Kidgwiga)  at  once  to  his  king,  to  say  I had  hoped,  when  I 
sent  Budja  with  Mabruki,  in  the  first  instance,  conveying  a friend- 
ly present  from  Mtesa,  which  was  done  at  my  instigation,  and  I 
found  Kamrasi  acknowledged  it  by  a return  present,  that  there 
would  be  no  more  fighting  between  them.  I said  I had  left  En- 
gland to  visit  these  countries  for  the  purpose  of  opening  up  a 
trade,  and  I had  no  orders  to  fight  my  way  except  with  the  force 
of  friendship.  That  Rumanika  had  accepted  my  views  Kamrasi 


Aug.] 


. BAHE  EL  ABIAD. 


447 


must  be  fully  aware  by  Baraka’s  having  visited  him ; and  that 
Mtesa  did  the  same  must  be  also  evident,  else  he  would  never 
have  ordered  his  men  to  accompany  me  to  Gani ; and  I now  fond- 
ly trusted  that  these  Waganda  would  be  allowed  to  go  with  me, 
when,  by  the  influence  of  trade,  all  animosity  would  cease,  and 
friendly  relations  be  restored  between  the  two  countries. 

This  speech  was  hardly  pronounced  when  Kajunju,  a fine  ath- 
letic man,  dropped  suddenly  in,  nodded  a friendly  recognition  to 
Budja,  and  wished  to  know  what  the  Waganda  meant  by  taking 
us  back,  for  the  king  had  heard  of  their  intention  last  night ; and 
when  told  by  Budja  his  story,  and  by  Kidgwiga  mine,  he  vanish- 
ed like  a shadow.  Budja,  now  turning  to  me,  said,  “ If  you  won’t 
go  back,  I shall ; for  the  orders  of  Mtesa  must  always  be  obeyed, 
else  lives  will  be  lost;  and  I shall  tell  him  that  you,  since  leaving 
his  country  and  getting  your  road,  have  quite  forgotten  him.” 
“If  you  give  such  a message  as  that,”  I said,  “you  will  tell  a 
falsehood.  Mtesa  has  no  right  to  order  me  out  of  another  man’s 
house,  to  be  an  enemy  with  one  whose  friendship  I desire.  I am 
not  only  in  honor  bound  to  speak  with  Kamrasi,  but  I am  also 
bound  to  carry  out  the  orders  of  my  country  just  as  much  as  you 
are  yours ; moreover,  I have  invited  Petherick  to  come  to  Kam- 
rasi’s  by  a letter  from  Karagiie,  and  it  would  be  ill-becoming  in 
me  to  desert  him  in  the  hands  of  an  enemy,  as  he  would  then  cer- 
tainly find  Kamrasi  to  be  if  I went  back  now.”  Budja  then  tried 
the  coaxing  dodge,  saying,  “ There  is  much  reason  in  your  words, 
but  I am  sorry  you  do  not  listen  to  the  king,  for  he  loves  you  as 
a brother.  Did  you  not  go  about  like  two  brothers — walking, 
talking,  shooting,  and  even  eating  together?  It  was  the  remark 
of  all  the  Waganda,  and  the  king  will  be  so  vexed  when  he  finds 
you  have  thrown  him  over.  I did  not  tell  you  before,  but  the 
king  says,  ‘ How  can  I answer  Rumanika  if  Kamrasi  injures  Bana? 
Had  I known  Kamrasi  was  such  a savage,  I would  not  have  let 
Bana  go  there ; and  I should  now  have  sent  a force  to  take  him 
away,  only  that  some  accident  might  arise  from  it  by  Kamrasi’s 
taking  fright ; the  road  even  to  Gani  shall  be  got  by  force,  if  nec- 
essary.’ ” Then,  finding  me  still  persistent,  Budja  turned  again 
and  threatened  us  with  the  king’s  power,  saying,  “ If  you  choose 
to  disobey,  we  will  see  whether  you  ever  get  the  road  to  Gani  or 
not ; for  Kamrasi  is  at  war  on  all  sides  with  his  brothers,  and 
Mtesa  will  ally  himself  with  them  at  any  moment  that  he  wishes, 
and  where  will  you  be  then?” 


448  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [lg62. 

Saying  this,  Buclja  walked  off,  muttering  that  our  being  here 
would  much  embarrass  Mtesa’s  actions,  while  my  Wanguana,  who 
have  been  attentively  listening,  like  timid  hares,  made  up  their 
minds  to  leave  me,  and  tried,  through  Bombay,  to  obtain  a final 
interview  with  me,  saying  they  knew  Mtesa’s  power,  and  disobe- 
dience to  him  would  only  end  in  taking  away  all  chance  of  es- 
cape. In  reply,  I said  I would  not  listen  to  them,  as  I had  seen 
enough  of  them  to  know  it  was  no  use  speaking  with  a pack  of 
unreasonable  cowards,  having  tried  it  so  often  before ; but  I sent 
a message  requesting  them,  if  they  did  desert  me  at  last,  to  leave 
my  guns ; and,  farther,  added  an  intimation  that,  as  soon  as  they 
reached  the  coast,  they  would  be  put  into  prison  for  three  years. 
The  scoundrels  insolently  said  “tiiendd  setu”  (let’s  be  off),  rushed 
to  the  Waganda  drums,  and  beat  the  march. 

1st.  Early  in  the  morning,  as  Budja  drummed  the  home  march, 
I called  him  up,  gave  him  a glass  rain-gauge  as  a letter  for  Mtesa, 
and  instructed  him  to  say  I would  send  a man  to  Mtesa  as  soon 
as  I had  seen  Kamrasi  about  opening  the  road ; that  I trusted  he 
would  take  all  the  guns  from  the  deserters  and  keep  them  for  me, 
but  the  men  themselves  I wished  transported  to  an  island  on  the 
N’yanza,  for  I could  never  allow  such  scoundrels  again  to  enter 
my  camp.  It  was  the  effect  of  desertions  like  these  that  pre- 
vented any  white  men  visiting  these  countries.  This  said,  the 
Waganda  all  left  us,  taking  with  them  twenty-eight  Wanguana, 
armed  with  twenty-two  carbines.  Among  them  was  .the  wretch- 
ed governess  Manamaka,  who  had  always  thought  me  a wonder- 
ful magician,  because  I possessed,  in  her  belief,  an  extraordinary 
power  in  inclining  all  the  black  king’s  hearts  to  me,  and  induced 
them  to  give  the  roads  no  one  before  of  my  -color  had  ever  at- 
tempted to  use. 

With  a following  reduced  to  twenty  men,  armed  with  fourteen 
carbines,  I now  wished  to  start  for  Ivamrasi’s,  but  had  not  even 
sufficient  force  to  lift  the  loads.  A little  while  elapsed,  and  a 
party  of  fifty  Wanyoro  rushed  wildly  into  camp,  with  their  spears 
uplifted,  and  looked  for  the  Waganda,  but  found  them  gone.  The 
athletic  Kajunju,  it  transpired,  had  returned  to  Kamrasi’s,  told  him 
our  story,  and  received  orders  to  snatch  us  away  from  the  Wagan- 
da by  force,  for  the  great  mkamma,  or  king,  was  most  anxious  to 
see  his  white  visitors ; such  men  had  never  entered  Unyoro  be- 
fore, and  neither  his  father  nor  his  father’s  fathers  had  ever  been 
treated  with  such  a visitation ; therefore  he  had  sent  these  fifty 


Sept.] 


BAER  EL  ABIAD. 


449 


men  to  fall  by  surprise  on  the  Waganda  and  secure  us.  But 
again,  in  a little  while,  about  10  A.M.,  Kajunju,  in  the  same  wild 
manner,  at  the  head  of  150  warriors,  with  the  soldier’s  badge — a 
piece  of  mbugu.  or  plantain-leaf  tied  round  their  heads,  and  a leath- 
er sheath  on  their  spear-heads,  tufted  with  cow’s-tail — rushed  in 
exultingly,  having  found,  to  their  delight,  that  there  was  no  one 
left  to  fight  with,  and  that  they  had  gained  an  easy  victory.  They 
were  certainly  a wild  set  of  ragamuffins — as  different  as  possible 
from  the  smart,  well-dressed,  quick-of-speech  Waganda  as  could 
be,  and  any  thing  but  prepossessing  to  our  eyes.  However,  they 
had  done  their  work,  and  I offered  them  a cow,  wishing  to  have 
it  shot  before  them ; but  the  chief  men,  probably  wishing  the 
whole  animal  to  themselves,  took  it  alive,  saying  the  men  were 
all  the  king’s  servants,  and  therefore  could  not  touch  a morsel. 

Kamrasi  expected  us  to  advance  next  day,  when  some  men 
would  go  on  ahead  to  announce  our  arrival,  and  bring  a letter 
which  was  brought  with  beads  by  Gani  before  Baraka’s  arrival 
here.  It  was  shown  to  Baraka  in  the  hope  that  he  would  come 
by  the  Karague  route,  but  not  to  Mabruki,  because  he  came  from 
Uganda.  Kidgwiga  informed  us  that  Kamrasi  never  retaliated 
on  Mtesa  when  he  lifted  Unyoro  cows,  though  the  Waganda  keep 
their  cattle  on  the  border,  which  simply  meant  he  had  not  the 
power  of  doing  so.  The  twenty  remaining  Wanguana,  convers- 
ing over  the  sudden  scheme  of  the  deserters,  proposed,  on  one  side, 
sending  for  them,  as,  had  they  seen  the  Wanyoro  arrive,  they 
would  have  changed  their  minds;  but  the  other  side  said,  “What! 
those  brutes  who  said  we  should  all  die  here  if  we  staid,  and  yet 
dared  not  face  the  danger  with  us,  should  we  now  give  them  a 
helping  hand?  Never  ! We  told  them  we  would  share  our  fate 
with  Bana,  and  share  it  we  will,  for  God  rules  every  thing : every 
man  must  die  when  his  time  comes.” 

We  marched  for  the  first  time  without  music,  as  the  drum  is 

never  allowed  to  be  beaten  in  Unyoro  except  when 

To  Ututi,  2 d.  . . . . . ~ 1 

the  necessities  of  war  demand  it,  or  for  a dance.  VV  an- 
yamuezi  and  Wanyoro,  in  addition  to  our  own  twenty  men,  car- 
ried the  luggage,  though  no  one  carried  more  than  the  smallest 
article  he  could  find.  It  was  a pattern  Unyoro  march,  of  only 
two  hours’  duration.  On  arrival  at  the  end,  we  heard  that  ele- 
phants had  been  seen  close  by.  Grant  and  I then  prepared  our 
guns,  and  found  a herd  of  about  a hundred  feeding  on  a plain  of 
long  grass,  dotted  here  and  there  by  small  mounds  crowned  with 

F F 


450 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


shrub.  The  animals  appeared  to  be  all  females,  much  smaller 
than  the  Indian  breed ; yet,  though  ten  were  fired  at,  none  were 
killed,  and  only  one  made  an  attempt  to  charge.  I was  with  the 
little  twin  Manila  at  the  time,  when,  stealing  along  under  cover 
of  the  high  grass,  I got  close  to  the  batch  and  fired  at  the  largest, 
which  sent  her  round  roaring.  The  whole  of  them  then,  greatly 
alarmed,  packed  together  and  began  sniffing  the  air  with  their  up- 
lifted trunks,  till,  ascertaining  by  the  smell  of  the  powder  that 
their  enemy  was  in  front  of  them,  they  rolled  up  their  trunks  and 
came  close  to  the  spot  where  I was  lying  under  a mound.  My 
scent  then  striking  across  them,  they  pulled  up  short,  lifted  their 
heads  high,  and  looked  down  sideways  on  us.  This  was  a bad 
job.  I could  not  get  a proper  front  shot  at  the  boss  of  any  of 
them,  and  if  I had  waited  an  instant  we  should  both  have  been 
picked  up  or  trodden  to  death ; so  I let  fly  at  their  temples,  and, 
instead  of  killing,  sent  the  whole  of  them  rushing  away  at  a much 
faster  pace  than  they  came.  After  this  I gave  up,  because  I never 
could  separate  the  ones  I had  wounded  from  the  rest,  and  thought 
it  cruel  to  go  on  damaging  more.  Thinking  over  it  afterward,  I 
came  to  the  conclusion  I ought  to  have  put  in  more  powder ; for 
I had,  owing  to  their  inferior  size  to  the  Indian  ones,  rather  de- 
spised them,  and  fired  at  them  with  the  same  charge  and  in  the 
same  manner  as  I always  did  at  rhinoceros.  Though  puzzled  at 
the  strange  sound  of  the  rifle,  the  elephants  seldom  ran  far,  packed 
in  herd,  and  began  to  graze  again.  Frij,  who  was  always  ready 
at  spinning  a yarn,  told  us  with  much  gravity  that  two  of  my  men, 
Uledi  and  Wadi  Hamadi,  deserters,  were  possessed  of  devils  (phe- 
po)  at  Zanzibar.  Uledi,  not  wishing  to  be  plagued  by  his  satanic 
majesty’s  angels  on  the  inarch,  sacrificed  a cow  and  fed  the  poor, 
according  to  the  great  phepo’s  orders,  and  had  been  exempted 
from  it;  but  Wadi  Hamadi,  who  preferred  taking  his  chance,  had 
been  visited  several  times : once  at  Usui,  when  he  was  told  the 
journey  would  be  prosperous,  only  the  devil  wanted  one  man’s 
life,  and  one  man  would  fall  sick ; which  proved  true,  for  Has- 
sani  was  murdered,  and  Grant  fell  sick  in  Karague.  The  second 
time  Wadi  Hamadi  saw  the  devil  in  Karague,  and  was  told  one 
man’s  life  would  be  required  in  Uganda,  and  such  also  was  the 
case  by  Kari’s  murder ; and  a third  time,  in  Unyoro,  he  was  pos- 
sessed, when  it  was  said  that  the  journey  would  be  prosperous,  but 
protracted. 

3 d.  Though  we  stormed  every  day  at  being  so  shamefully  neg- 


THE  ELEPHANTS’  CHARGE. 


Sept.] 


BAHR  EL  ABIAD. 


458 


lected  and  kept  in  the  jungles,  we  could  not  get  on,  nor  find  out 
the  truth  of  our  position.  I asked  if  Kamrasi  was  afraid  of  us, 
and  looking  into  his  magic  horn  ; and  was  answered  “ USTo ; he  is 
very  anxious  to  see  you,  or  he  would  not  have  sent  six  of  his 
highest  officers  to  look  after  you,  and  prevent  the  unruly  peas- 
antry from  molesting  you.”  “ Then  by  whose  orders  are  we 
kept  here?”  “By  Kamrasi’s.”  “Why  does  Kamrasi  keep  us 
here?”  “He  thinks  you  are  not  so  near,  and  men  have  gone  to 
tell  him.”  “How  did  we  come  here  from  the  last  ground?” 
“ By  Kamrasi’s  orders ; for  nothing  can  be  done  excepting  by 
his  orders.”  “Then  he  must  know  we  are  here?”  “He  may 
not  have  seen  the  men  we  sent  to  him ; for,  unless  he  shows  in 
public,  no  one  can  see  him.”  The  whole  affair  gave  us  such  an 
opinion  of  Kamrasi  as  induced  us  to  think  it  would  have  served 
him  right  had  we  joined  Mtesa  and  given  him  a thrashing.  This, 
I said,  was  put  in  our  power  by  an  alliance  with  his  refractory 
brothers;  but  Kidgwiga  only  laughed  and  said,  “Nonsense! 
Kamrasi  is  the  chief  of  all  the  countries  round  here- — Hsoga, 
Kidi,  Chopi,  Gani,  Ulega,  every  where ; he  has  only  to  hold  up 
his  hand  and  thousands  would  come  to  his  assistance.”  Kwibeya, 
the  officer  of  the  place,  presented  us  with  five  fowls  on  the  part 
of  the  king,  and  some  baskets  of  potatoes. 

4 th.  We  halted  again,  it  was  said,  in  order  that  Kwibeya  might 
give  us  all  the  king  had  desired  him  to  present.  I sent  Bombay 
off  with  a message  to  Kamrasi  explaining  every  thing,  and  beg- 
ging for  an  early  interview,  as  I had  much  of  importance  to  com- 
municate, and  wished,  of  all  things,  to  see  the  letter  he  had  from 
Gani,  as  it  must  have  come  from  our  dear  friends  at  home.  Seven 
goats,  flour,  and  plantains  were  now  brought  to  us ; and  as  Kidg- 
wiga begged  for  the  flour  without  success,  he  flew  into  a fit  of 
high  indignation  because  these  things  were  given  and  received 
without  his  having  first  been  consulted.  He  was  the  big  man 
and  appointed  go-between,  and  no  one  could  dispute  it.  This 
was  rather  startling  news  to  us,  for  Vittagura  said  he  was  com- 
mander-in-chief; Kajunju  thought  himself  biggest,  so  did  Kwi- 
beya, and  even  Dr.  K’yengo’s  men  justified  Budja’s  speech. 

5th  and  6th.  Still  another  halt,  with  all  sorts  of  excuses.  Frij, 
it  appeared,  dreamt  last  night  that  the  King  of  Uganda  came  to 
fight  us  for  not  complying  with  his  orders,  and  that  all  my  men 
ran  away  except  Uledi  and  himself.  This,  according  to  the  in- 
terpretation of  the  coast,  would  turn  out  the  reverse,  otherwise 


454 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


his  head  must  be  wrong,  and,  according  to  local  science,  should  be 
set  right  again  by  actual  cautery  of  the  temples ; and  as  Grant 
dreamt  a letter  came  from  Gani  which  I opened  and  ran  away 
with,  he  thought  it  would  turn  out  no  letter  at  all,  and  therefore 
Kamrasi  had  been  humbugging  us.  We  heard  that  Bombay  had 
shot  a cow  before  Kamrasi,  and  would  not  be  allowed  to  return 
until  he  had  eaten  it. 

At  last  we  made  a move,  but  only  of  two  hours’  duration, 
change  ground,  through  the  usual  forest,  in  which  elephants  walked 
U,L  about  as  if  it  were  their  park.  We  hoped  at  starting 

to  reach  the  palace,  but  found  we  must  stop  here  until  the  king 
should  send  for  us.  We  were  informed  that  doubtless  he  was 
looking  into  his  uganga,  or  magic  horn,  to  discover  what  he  had 
to  expect  from  us;  and  he  seemed  as  yet  to  have  found  no  ground 
for  being  afraid  of  us.  Moreover,  it  is  his  custom  to  keep  visit- 
ors waiting  on  him  in  this  way,  for  is  he  not  the  king  of  kings, 
the  King  of  Kittara,  which  includes  all  the  countries  surrounding 
IJnyoro? 


Sept.] 


UNYORO. 


455 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

UNYORO. 

Invitation  to  the  Palace  at  last. — Journey  to  it. — Bombay’s  Visit  to  King  Kamrasi. 
— Our  Reputation  as  Cannibals. — Reception  at  Court. — Acting  the  Physician 
again. — Royal  Mendicancy. 

We  halted  again,  but  in  the  evening  one  of  Dr.  K’yengo’s  men 
to  ciiaguzi,  on  came  to  invite  us  to  the  palace.  He  explained  that 
the  rlvct,  Kamrasi  was  in  a great  rage  because  we  only  received 
m'  seven  goats  instead  of  thirty,  the  number  he  had  or- 

dered Kwibeya  to  give  us,  besides  pombe  and  plantains  without 
limitation.  I complained  that  Bombay  had  been  shown  more 
respect  than  myself,  obtaining  an  immediate  admittance  to  the 
king’s  presence.  To  this  he  gave  two  ready  answers— that  every 
distinction  shown  my  subordinate  was  a distinction  to  myself,  and 
that  we  must  not  expect  court  etiquette  from  savages. 


9th.  We  set  off  for  the  palace.  This  last  march  differed  but 
little  from  the  others.  Putting  Dr.  K’yengo’s  men  in  front,  and 


King  Kamrasi’ s Palace,  from  my  hut — Unyoro. 


156 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


going  on  despite  all  entreaties  to  stop,  we  passed  the  last  bit  of 
jungle,  sighted  the  Kidi  hills,  and,  in  a sea  of  swampy  grass,  at 
last  we  stood  in  front  of  and  overlooked  the  great  king’s  palace, 
situated  N.  lat.  1°  37'  13",  and  E.  long.  32°  19'  49",  on  a low 
tongue  of  land  between  the  Kafu.  and  Nile  Rivers.  It  was  a 
dumpy,  large  hut,  surrounded  by  a host  of  smaller  ones,  and  the 
worst  royal  residence  we  had  seen  since  leaving  Uzinza.  Here 
Kajunju,  coming  from  behind,  overtook  us,  and,  breathless  with 
running,  in  the  most  excited  manner  abused  Dr.  K’yengo’s  men 
for  leading  us  on,  and  ordered  us  to  stop  until  he  saw  the  king, 
and  ascertained  the  place  his  majesty  wished  us  to  reside  in. 
Recollecting  Mtesa’s  words  that  Kamrasi  placed  his  guests  on  the 
N’yanza,  I declined  going  to  any  place  but  the  palace,  which  I 
maintained  was  my  right,  and  waited  for  the  issue,  when  Kajunju 
returned  with  pombe,  and  showed  us  to  a small,  dirty  set  of  huts 
beyond  the  Kafu  River — the  trunk  of  the  Mwerango  and  N’yanza 
branches  which  we  crossed  in  Uganda — and  trusted  this  would 
do  for  the  present,  as  better  quarters  in  the  palace  would  be 
looked  for  on  the  morrow.  This  was  a bad  beginning,  and  caused 
a few  of  the  usual  anathemas  in  which  our  countrymen  give  vent 
to  their  irritation. 

Two  loads  of  flour,  neatly  packed  in  long  strips  of  rush-pith, 
were  sent  for  us  “to  consume  at  once,”  as  more  would  be  given 
on  the  morrow.  To  keep  us  amused,  Kidgwiga  informed  us  that 
Kamrasi  and  Mtesa — in  fact,  all  the  Wahuma — came  originally 
from  a stock  of  the  same  tribe  dwelling  beyond  Kidi.  All  bury 
their  dead  in  the  same  way,  under  ground;  but  the  kings  are 
toasted  first  for  months  till  they  are  like  sun-dried  meat,  when 
the  lower  jaw  is  cut  out  and  preserved,  covered  with  beads.  The 
royal  tombs  are  put  under  the  charge  of  special  officers,  who  oc- 
cupy huts  erected  over  them.  The  umbilical  cords  are  preserved 
from  birth,  and,  at  death,  those  of  men  are  placed  within  the  door- 
frame, while  those  of  women  are  buried  without — this  last  act 
corresponding,  according  to  Bombay,  with  the  custom  of  the  Wa- 
hiyow.  On  the  death  of  any  of  the  great  officers  of  state,  the 
finger-bones  and  hair  are  also  preserved;  or,  if  they  have  died 
shaven,  as  sometimes  occurs,  a bit  of  their  mbugu  dress  is  pre- 
served in  place  of  the  hair.  Their  families  guard  their  tombs. 

The  story  we  heard  at  Karague,  about  dogs  with  horns  in  Un- 
yoro,  was  confirmed  by  Kidgwiga,  who  positively  assured  us  that 
he  once  saw  one  in  the  possession  of  an  official  person,  but  it  died. 


Sept.] 


UNYOEO. 


457 


The  horn  then,  was  stuffed  with  magic  powder,  and,  whenever  an 
army  was  ordered  for  war,  it  was  placed  on  the  war-track  for  the 
soldiers  to  step  over,  in  the  same  way  as  a child  is  sacrificed  to 
insure  victory  in  Unyamuezi.  Of  the  Karague  story,  according 
to  which  all  the  Kidi  people  sleep  in  trees,  Kidgwiga  gave  me  a 
modified  version.  He  said  the  bachelors  alone  do  so,  while  the 
married  folk  dwell  in  houses.  As  most  of  these  stories  have  some 
foundation  in  fact,  we  presumed  that  the  people  of  Kidi  sometimes 
mount  a tree  to  sleep  at  night  when  traveling  through  their  for- 
ests, where  lions  are  plentiful,  but  not  otherwise. 

10th.  I sent  Kidgwiga  with  my  compliments  to  the  king,  and  a 
request  that  his  majesty  would  change  my  residence,  which  was 
so  filthy  that  I found  it  necessary  to  pitch  a tent,  and  also  that  he 
would  favor  me  with  an  interview  after  breakfast.  The  return 
was  a present  of  twenty  cows,  ten  cocks,  two  bales  of  flour,  and 
two  pots  of  pombe,  to  be  equally  divided  between  Grant  and  my- 
self, as  Kamrasi  recognized  in  us  two  distinct  camps,  because  we 
approached  his  country  by  two  different  routes — a smart  method 
for  expecting  two  presents  from  us,  which  did  not  succeed,  as  I 
thanked  for  all,  Grant  being  “ my  son”  on  this  occasion.  The 
king  also  sent  his  excuses,  and  begged  pardon  for  what  happened 
to  us  on  entering  his  country,  saying  it  could  not  have  taken  place 
had  we  come  from  Kumaniba  direct.  His  fear  of  the  Waganda 
gave  rise  to  it,  and  he  trusted  we  would  forget  and  forgive.  To- 
morrow our  residence  should  be  changed,  and  an  interview  fol- 
low, for  he  desired  being  friends  with  us  just  as  much  as  we  did 
with  him. 

At  last  Bombay  came  back.  He  reported  that  he  had  not  been 
allowed  to  leave  the  palace  earlier,  though  he  pleaded  hard  that 
I expected  his  return ; and  the  only  excuse  that  he  could  extract 
from  the  king  was,  that  we  were  coming  in  charge  of  many  wa- 
kungu,  and  he  had  found  it  necessary  to  retard  our  approach  in 
consequence  of  the  famine  at  Chaguzi.  His  palace  proper  was 
not  here,  but  three  marches  westward : he  had  come  here  and 
pitched  a camp  to  watch  his  brothers,  who  were  at  war  with  him. 
Bombay,  doing  his  best  to  escape,  or  to  hurry  my  march,  replied 
that  he  was  very  anxious  on  our  account,  because  the  Waganda 
wished  to  snatch  us  away. 

It  was  no  doubt  this  hint  that  brought  the  messenger  to  our 
relief  yesterday,  as  otherwise  we  might  have  been  kept  in  the 
jungle  longer.  When  told  by  Bombay  of  our  treatment  on  the 


458 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


Nile,  the  king  first  said  he  did  not  think  we  wished  to  see  him,, 
else  we  would  have  come  direct  from  Rumanika ; but  when  ask- 
ed if  Baraka’s  coming  with  Rumanika’s  officers  was  not  sufficient 
to  satisfy  him  on  this  point,  he  hung  down  his  head  and  evaded 
the  question,  saying  he  had  been  the  making  of  King  Mtesa  of 
Uganda;  but  he  had  turned  out  a bad  fellow,  and  now  robbed 
him  right  and  left.*  The  Gani  letter,  supposed  to  be  from  Peth- 
erick,  was  now  asked  for,  and  a suggestion  made  about  opening  a 
trade  with  Gani,  but  all  with  the  provoking  result  we  had  been 
so  well  accustomed  to.  No  letter  like  that  referred  to  had  ever 
been  received,  so  that  Frij’s  interpretation  about  Grant’s  letter- 
dream  was  right ; and  if  we  wished  to  go  to  Gani,  the  king  would 
send  men  traveling  by  night,  for  his  brothers  at  war  with  him  lay 
upon  the  road..  As  to  the  Uganda  question,  and  my  desiring  him 
to  make  friends  with  Mtesa,  in  hopes  that  the  influence  of  trade 
would  prevent  any  plundering  in  future,  he  merely  tossed  his 
head.  He  often  said  he  did  not  know  what  to  think  about  his 
guests,  now  he  had  got  them ; to  which  Bombay,  in  rather  success- 
ful imitation  of  what  he  had  heard  me  say  on  like  occasions,  re- 
plied, “ If  you  do  not  like  them  after  you  have  seen  them,  cut 
their  heads  off,  for  they  are  all  in  your  hands.” 

11  th.  With  great  apparent  politeness  Kamrasi  sent  in  the  morn- 
ing to  inquire  how  we  had  slept.  He  had  “heard  our  cry” — an 
expression  of  regal  condescension — and  begged  we  would  not  be 
alarmed,  for  next  morning  he  would  see  us,  and  after  the  meeting 
change  our  residence,  when,  should  we  not  approve  of  wading  to 
his  palace,  he  would  bridge  all  the  swamps  leading  up  to  it;  but 
for  the  present  he  wanted  two  rounds  of  ball  cartridge — one  to 
fire  before  his  women,  and  the  other  before  his  officers  and  a large 
number  of  Kidi  men  who  were  there  on  a visit.  To  please  this 
childish  king,  Bombay  was  sent  with  two  other  of  my  men,  and 
no  sooner  arrived  than  a cow  was  placed  before  them  to  be  shot. 
Bombay,  however,  thinking  easy  compliance  would  only  lead  to 
continued  demands  on  our  short  store  of.powder,  said  he  had  no 
order  to  shoot  cows,  and  declined.  A strong  debate  ensued, 
■which  Bombay,  by  his  own  account,  turned  to  advantage  by  say- 
ing, “What  use  is  there  in  shooting  cows?  we  have  lots  of  meat; 
what  we  want  is  flour  to  eat  with  it.”  To  which  the  great  king 

* This  obviously  was  an  allusion  to  the  way  in  which  the  first  king  of  Uganda 
was  countenanced  by  the  great  king  of  Kittara,  according  to  the  tradition  given  in 
Chapter  IX. 


Sept.] 


UNYORO. 


459 


retorted,  “ If  you  have  not  got  flour,  that  is  not  my  fault,  for  I or- 
dered your  master  to  come  slowly,  and  to  bring  provisions  along 
with  him.'’ 

Then  getting  impatient,  as  all  his  visitors  wanted  sport,  he  or- 
dered the  cow  out  again,  and  insisted  on  my  men  shooting  at  it, 
saying  at  the  same  time  to  his  Ividi  visitors,  boastfully,  “Now  I 
will  show  you  what  devils  these  Wanguana  are:  with  fire-arms 
they  can  kill  a cow  with  one  bullet;  and  as  they  are  going  to 
Gani,  I advise  you  not  to  meddle  with  them.”  The  Kidi  visitors 
said,  “ Nonsense ; we  don’t  believe  in  their  power,  but  we  will 
see.”  Irate  at  his  defeat,  Bombay  gave  orders  to  the  men  to  fire 
over  the  cow,  and  told  Kamrasi  why  he  had  done  so — Bana 
would  be  angry  with  him.  “Well,”  said  the  king  of  kings,  “if 
that  is  true,  go  back  to  your  master,  tell  him  you  have  disap- 
pointed me  before  these  men,  and  obtain  permission  to  shoot  the 
cow  in  the  morning ; after  which,  should  you  succeed,  your  mas- 
ter can  come  after  breakfast  to  see  me ; 'but  for  the  present,  take 
him  this  pot  of  pombe.” 

12th.  To  back  Bombay  in  what  he  had  said,  I gave  him  two 
more  cartridges  to  shoot  the  cow  with,  and  orders  as  well  to  keep 
Kamrasi  to  his  word  about  the  oft-promised  interview  and  change 
of  residence.  He  gave  me  the  following  account  on  his  return : 
Upward  of  a thousand  spectators  were  present  when  he  killed  the 
cow,  putting  both  bullets  into  her,  and  all  in  a voice,  as  soon  as 
they  saw  the  effect  of  the  shot,  shouted  in  amazement ; the  Kidi 
visitors,  all  terror-stricken,  crying  out,  as  they  clasped  their 
breasts,  “Oh,  great  king,  do  allow  us  to  return  to  our  country,  for 
you  have  indeed  got  a new  species  of  man  with  you,  and  we  are 
greatly  afraid !”  a lot  of  humbug  and  affectation  to  flatter  the 
kiDg,  which  pleased  him  greatly.  It  was  not  sufficient,  however, 
to  make  him  forget  his  regal  pride ; for,  though  Bombay  pleaded 
hard  for  our  going  to  see  him,  and  for  a change  of  residence,  the 
immovable  king,  to  maintain  the  imperial  state  he  had  assumed  as 
“ king  of  kings,”  only  said,  “ What  difference  does  it  make  wheth- 
er your  master  sees  me  to-day  or  to-morrow  ? If  he  wants  to 
communicate  about  the  road  to  Gani,  his  property  at  Karague,  or 
his  guns  at  Uganda,  he  can  do  so  as  well  through  the  medium  of 
my  officers  as  with  me  direct,  and  I will  send  men  whenever  he 
wishes  to  do  so.  Perhaps  you  don’t  know,  but  I expect  men 
from  Gani  every  day,  who  took  a present  of  slaves,  ivory,  and 
monkey-skins  to  the  foreigners  residing  there,  who,  in  the  first 


460 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


instance,  sent  me  a necklace  of  beads  [stowing  them]  by  some 
men  wbo  wore  clothes.  They  said  white  men  were  coming  from 
Karague,  and  requested  the  beads  might  be  shown  them  should 
they  do  so.  They  left  this  two  moons  before  Baraka  arrived 
here,  and  I told  them  the  white  men  would  not  come  here,  as  I 
heard  they  had  gone  to  Uganda.” 

Bombay  then,  finding  the  king  very  communicative,  went  at 
him  for  his  inhospitality  toward  us,  his  turning  us  back  from  his 
country  twice,  and  now,  after  inviting  us,  treating  us  as  Suwarora 
did.  On  this  he  gave,  by  Bombay’s  account,  the  following  curious 
reason  for  his  conduct:  “You  don’t  understand  the  matter.  At 
the  time  the  white  men  were  living  in  Uganda,  many  of  the  peo- 
ple who  had  seen  them  there  came  and  described  them  as  such 
monsters,  they  ate  up  mountains  and  drank  the  U’yanza  dry ; 
and  although  they  fed  on  both  beef  and  mutton,  they  were  not 
satisfied  until  they  got  a dish  of  the  1 tender  parts’  of  human  be- 
ings three  times  a day.  Now  I was  extremely  anxious  to  see 
men  of  such  wonderful  natures.  I could  have  stood  their  mount- 
ain-eating and  N’yanza-drinking  capacities,  but  on  no  considera- 
tion would  I submit  to  sacrifice  my  subjects  to  their  appetites, 
and  for  this  reason  I first  sent  to  turn  them  back;  but  afterward, 
on  hearing  from  Dr.  K’yengo’s  men  that,  although  the  white  men 
had  traveled  all  through  their  country,  and  brought  all  the  pretty 
and  wonderful  things  of  the  world  there,  they  had  never  heard 
such  monstrous  imputations  cast  upon  them,  I sent  a second  time 
to  call  them  on : these  are  the  facts  of  the  case.  ISTow,  with  re- 
gard to  your  accusation  of  my  treating  them  badly,  it  is  all  their 
own  fault.  I ordered  them  to  advance  slowly  and  pick  up  food 
by  the  way,  as  there  is  a famine  here ; but  they,  instead,  hurried 
on  against  my  wishes.  That  they  want  to  see  and  give  me  pres- 
ents you  have  told  me  repeatedly — so  do  I them ; for  I want 
them  to  teach  me  the  way  to  shoot,  and  when  that  is  accomplished 
I will  take  them  td  an  island  near  Kidi,  where  there  are  some 
men  [his  refractory  brothers]  whom  I wish  to  frighten  away  with 
guns ; but  still  there  is  no  hurry ; they  can  come  when  I choose 
to  call  them,  and  not  before.”  Bombay  to  this  said,  “I  can  not 
deliver  such  a message  to  Bana ; I have  told  so  many  falsehoods 
about  your  saying  you  will  have  an  interview  to-morrow,  I shall 
only  catch  a flogging,”  and  forthwith  departed. 

13th.  More  disgusted  with  Kamrasi  than  ever,  I called  Kidg- 
wiga  up,  and  told  him  I was  led  to  expect  from  Rumanika  that  I 


Sept.] 


UNYORO. 


461 


should  find  his  king  a good  and  reasonable  man,  which  I believed, 
considering  it  was  said  by  an  unprejudiced  person.  Mtesa,  on 
the  contrary,  told  me  Kamrasi  treated  all  his  guests  with  disre- 
spect, sending  them  to  the  farther  side  of  the  N’yanza.  I now 
found  his  enemy  more  truthful  than  his  friend,  and  wished  him 
to  be  told  so.  “For  the  future,  I should  never,”  I said,  “men- 
tion his  name  again,  but  wait  until  his  fear  of  me  had  vanished ; 
for  he  quite  forgot  his  true  dignity  as  a host  and  king  in  his  sur- 
prise and  fear,  merely  because  we  were  in  a hurry  and  desired  to 
see  him.”  He  was  reported  to-day,  by  the  way,  to  be  drunk. 

As  nothing  could  be  done  yesterday  in  consequence  of  the 
change  to  West  king  being  in  his  cups,  the  wakungu  conveyed  my 
End,  i4tk.  message  to-day,  but  with  the  usual  effect,,  till  a dip- 

lomatic idea  struck  me,  and  I sent  another  messenger  to  say,  if 
our  residence  was  not  changed  at  once,  both  Grant  and  myself 
had  made  up  our  minds  to  cut  off  our  hair  and  blacken  our  faces, 
so  that  the  king  of  all  kings  should  have  no  more  cause  to  fear 
us.  Ignoring  his  claims  to  imperial  rank,  I maintained  that  his 
reason  for  ill  treating  us  must  be  fear — it  could  be  nothing  else. 
This  message  acted  like  magic ; for  he  fully  believed  we  would 
do  as  we  said,  and  disappoint  him  altogether  of  the  strange  sight 
of  us  as  pure  white  men.  The  reply  was,  Kamrasi  would  not 
have  us  disfigured  in  this  way  for  all  the  world ; men  were  ap- 
pointed to  convey  our  traps  to  the  west  end  at  once : and  Kidg- 
wiga,  Vittagura,  and  Kajunju  rushed  over  to  give  us  the  news  in 
all  haste,  lest  we  should  execute  our  threat,  and  they  were  glad 
to  find  us  with  our  faces  unchanged.  I now  gave  one  cow  to  the 
head  of  Dr.  K’yengo’s  party,  and  one  to  the  head  of  Rumanika’s 
men,  because  I saw  it  was  through  their  instrumentality  we  gained 
admittance  in  the  country ; and  we  changed  residence  to  the  west 
end  of  Chaguzi,  and  found  there  comfortable  huts  close  to  the 
Kafu,  which  ran  immediately  between  us  and  the  palace. 

Still  our  position  in  Unyoro  was  not  a pleasant  one.  In  a long 
field  of  grass,  as  high  as  the  neck,  and  half  under  water,  so  that 
no  walks  could  be  taken,  we  had  nothing  to  see  but  Kamrasi’s 
miserable  huts  and  a few  distant  conical  hills,  of  which  one, 
Udongo,  we  conceive,  represents  the  Padongo  of  Brun-Bollet, 
placed  by  him  in  1°  south  latitude,  and  35°  east  longitude.  We 
were  scarcely  inside  our  new  dwelling  when  Kamrasi  sent  a cheer 
of  two  pots  of  pombe,  five  fowls,  and  two  bunches  of  plantains, 
hoping  we  were  now  satisfied  with  his  favor;  but  he  damped 


4:62 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


the  whole  in  a moment  again  by  asking  for  a many-bladed  knife 
which  his  officers  had  seen  in  Grant’s  possession.  I took  what 
he  sent  from  fear  of  giving  offense,  but  replied  that  I was  sur- 
prised the  great  king  should  wish  to  see  my  property  before  see- 
ing myself,  and  although  I attached  no  more  value  to  my  prop- 
erty than  he  did  to  his,  I could  not  demean  myself  by  sending 
him  trifles  in  that  way.  However,  should  he,  after  hearing  my 
sentiments,  still  persist  in  asking  for  the  knife  to  be  sent  by  the 
hands  of  a black  man,  I would  pack  it  up  with  all  the  things  I 
had  brought  for  him,  and  send  them  by  a black  man,  judging  that 
he  liked  black  men  more  than  white. 

Dr.  K’yengo’s  men  then  informed  us  that  they  had  been  twice 
sent  with  an  army  of  Wanyoro  to  attack  the  king’s  brothers,  on 
a river-island  north  of  this  about  three  days’  journey,  but  each 
time  it  ended  in  nothing.  You  fancy  yourself,  they  said,  in  a 
magnificent  army,  but  the  enemy  no  sooner  turn  out  than  the 
cowardly  Wanyoro  Hy,  and  sacrifice  their  ally  as  soon  as  not  into 
the  hands  of  the  opponents.  They  said  Kamrasi  would  now  ex- 
pect us  to  attack  them  with  our  guns.  Eionga  was  the  head  of 
the  rebels ; there  were  formerly  five,  but  now  only  two  of  the 
brothers  remained. 

15th.  Kamrasi,  after  inquiring  after  our  health,  and  how  we 
had  slept,  through  a large  deputation  of  head  men,  alluded  to  the 
knife  question  of  yesterday,  thinking  it  very  strange  that,  after 
giving  me  such  nice  food,  I should  deny  him  the  gratification  of 
simply  looking  at  a knife ; he  did  not  intend  to  keep  it  if  it  was 
not  brought  for  him,  but  merely  to  look  at  and  return  it.  To  my 
reply  of  yesterday  I added,  I had  been  led,  before  entering  Un- 
yoro,  to  regard  Kamrasi  as  the  king  of  all  kings  — the  greatest 
king  that  ever  was,  and  one  worthy  to  be  my  father ; but  now,  as 
he  expected  me  to  amuse  him  with  toys,  he  had  lowered  himself 
in  my  estimation  to  the  position  of  being  my  child.  To  this  the 
sages  said,  “Bana  speaks  beautifully,  feelingly,  and  moderately. 
Of  course  he  is  displeased  at  seeing  his  property  preferred  before 
himself ; all  the  right  is  on  his  side ; we  will  now  return  and  see 
what  can  be  done,  though  none  but  white  men  in  their  greatness 
dare  send  such  messages  to  our  king.” 

Dr.  K’yengo’s  men  were  now  attacked  by  Kidgwiga  for  having 
taken  a cow  from  me  yesterday,  and  told  they  should  not  eat  it, 
because  both  they  and  myself  were  the  king’s  guests,  and  it  ill 
became  one  to  eat  that  which  was  given  as  a dinner  for  the  other. 


Sept.] 


UNYORO. 


463 


Fortunately,  foreseeing  this  kind  of  policy,  as  Kamrasi  had  been 
watching  our  actions,  I invariably  gave  in  presents  those  cows 
which  came  with  us  from  Uganda,  and  therefore  defied  any  one 
to  meddle  with  them.  This  elicited  the  true  facts  of  the  case. 
Dr.  K’yengo’s  men  had  been  sent  to  our  camp  to  observe  if  any 
body  received  presents  from  us,  as  Kamrasi  feared  his  subjects 
would  have  the  fleecing  of  us  before  his  turn  came,  and  these  men 
had  reported  the  two  cows  given  by  me  as  mentioned  above. 
Kamrasi  no  sooner  heard  of  this  than  he  took  the  cows  and  kept 
them  himself.  In  their  justification,  Dr.  K’yengo’s  men  said  that, 
had  they  not  been  in  the  country  before  us,  Kamrasi  would  not 
have  had  such  guests  at  all ; for  when  he  asked  them  if  the  Wa- 
ganda  reports  about  our  cannibalism  and  other  monstrosities  were 
true,  their  head  man  denied  it  all,  offered  to  stand  security  for  our 
actions,  and  told  the  king  if  he  found  us  cannibals  he  might  make 
a Mohammedan  of  him,  and  sealed  the  statement  with  his  oath  by 
throwing  down  his  shield  and  bow  and  walking  over  them.  To 
this  Kamrasi  was  said  to  have  replied,  “ I will  accept  your  state- 
ments, but  you  must  remain  with  me  until  they  come.” 

Kajunju  came  with  orders  to  say  Kamrasi  would  seize  any 
body  found  staring  at  us.  I requested  a definite  answer  would 
be  given  as  regards  Kamrasi’s  seeing  us.  Dr.  K’yengo’s  men  then 
said  they  were  kept  a week  waiting  before  they  could  obtain  an 
interview,  while  Kajunju  excused  his  king  by  saying,  “At  pres- 
ent the  court  is  full  of  Kidi,  Chopi,  Grani,  and  other  visitors,  who 
he  does  not  wish  should  see  you,  as  some  may  be  enemies  in  dis- 
guise. They  are  all  now  taking  presents  of  cows  from  Kamrasi, 
and  going  to  their  homes,  and,  as  soon  as  they  are  disposed  of, 
your  turn  will  come.” 

1 6lh.  We  kept  quiet  all  day,  to  see  what  effect  that  would  have 
upon  the  king.  Kidgwiga  told  us  that,  when  he  was  a lad,  Kam- 
rasi sent  him  with  a large  party  of  Wanyoro  to  visit  a king  who 
lived  close  to  a high  mountain,  two  months’  journey  distant,  to 
the  east  or  southeast  of  this,  and  beg  for  a magic  horn,  as  that 
king’s  doctor  was  peculiarly  famed  for  his  skill  as  a magician. 
The  party  carried  with  them  600  majembe  (iron  spades),  two  of 
which  expended  daily  paid  for  their  board  and  lodgings  on  the 
way.  The  horn  applied  for  was  sent  by  a special  messenger  to 
Kamrasi,  who,  in  return,  sent  one  of  his  horns ; from  which  date 
the  two  kings,  whenever  one  of  them  wishes  to  communicate  with 
the  other,  sends,  on  the  messenger’s  neck,  the  horn  that  had  been 


464 


THE  SOUKCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


given  liim,  which,  both  serves  for  credentials  and  security,  as  no 
one  dare  touch  a mbakka  with  one  of  these  horns  upon  his  neck. 

A common  source  of  conversation  among  our  men  now  was  the 
desertion  of  their  comrades,  all  fancying  how  bitterly  they  would 
repent  it  when  they  heard  how  we  had  succeeded,  eating  beef 
every  day ; and  Uledi  now,  in  a joking  manner,  abused  Mektub 
for  having  urged  him  to  desert.  He  would  not  leave  Bana,  and 
if  he  had  not  stopped,  Mektub  would  have  gone,  for  they  both 
served  one  master  at  Zanzibar,  and  therefore  were  like  brothers ; 
while  Mektub,  laughing  over  the  matter  as  if  it  were  a good  joke, 
said,  “ I packed  up  my  things  to  go,  it  is  true,  but  I reflected  if  I 
got  back  to  the  coast  Said  Majid  would  only  make  a slave  of  me 
again.”  M’yinzuggi,  the  head  of  Riimanika’s  party,  gave  me  to- 
day a tippet  monkey -skin  in  return  for  the  cow  I had  given  him 
on  the  14th.  These  men,  taking  their  natures  from  their  king 
Rumanika,  are  by  far  the  most  gentle,  polite,  and  attentive  of  any 
black  men  we  have  traveled  among. 

17 th.  Tired  and  out  of  patience  with  our  prison  — a river  of 
crocodiles  on  one  side,  and  swamps  in  every  other  direction,  while 
we  could  not  go  out  shooting  without  a specific  order  from  the 
king — I sent  Kidgwiga  and  Kajunju  to  inform  Kamrasi  that  we 
could  bear  this  life  no  longer.  As  he  did  not  wish  to  see  white 
men,  our  residing  here  could  be  of  no  earthly  use.  I hoped  he 
would  accept  our  present  from  Bombay,  and  give  us  leave  to  de- 
part for  Gani.  The  wakungu,  who  thought,  as  well  as  ourselves, 
that  we  were  in  nothing  better  than  a prison,  hurried  off  with  the 
message,  and  soon  returned  with  a message  from  their  king  that 
he  was  busily  engaged  decorating  his  palace  to  give  us  a triumph- 
ant reception,  for  he  was  anxious  to  pay  us  more  respect  than 
any  body  who  had  ever  visited  him  before.  We  should  have 
seen  him  yesterday,  only  that  it  rained;  and,  as  a precaution 
against  our  meeting  being  broken  up,  a shed  was  being  built. 
He  could  not  hear  of  our  leaving  the  country  without  seeing 
him. 

18th.  At  last  we  were  summoned  to  attend  the  king’s  levee ; 
but  the  suspicious  creature  wished  his  officers  to  inspect  the 
things  we  had  brought  for  him  before  we  went  there.  Here  was 
another  hitch.  I could  not  submit  to  such  disrespectful  suspi- 
cions ; but  if  he  wished  Bombay  to  convey  my  present  to  him,  I 
saw  no  harm  in  the  proposition.  The  king  waived  the  point,  and 
we  all  started,  carrying  as  a present  the  things  enumerated  in  the 


Sept.] 


UNYORO. 


465 


note.*  The  Union  Jack  led  the  way.  At  the  ferry  three  shots 
were  fired,  when,  stepping  into  two  large  canoes,  we  all  went 
across  the  Kafu  together,  and  found,  to  our  surprise,  a small  hut 
built  for  the  reception,  low  down  on  the  opposite  bank,  where  no 
strange  eyes  could  see  us. 

Within  this,  sitting  on  a low  wooden  stool  placed  upon  a double 
matting  of  skins — cows’  below  and  leopards’  above — on  an  ele- 
vated platform  of  grass,  was  the  great  king  Kamrasi,  looking,  en- 
shrouded in  his  mbugu.  dress,  for  all  the  world  like  a pope  in  state 
— calm  and  actionless.  One  bracelet  of  fine-twisted  brass  wire 
adorned  his  left  wrist,  and  his  hair,  half  an  inch  long,  was  worked 
up  into  small  peppercorn-like  knobs  by  rubbing  the  hand  circu- 
larly over  the  crown  of  the  head.  His  eyes  were  long,  face  nar- 
row, and  nose  prominent,  after  the  true  fashion  of  his  breed ; and 
though  a finely-made  man,  considerably  above  six  feet  high,  he 
was  not  so  large  as  Rumanika.  A cowskin,  stretched  out  and 
fastened  to  the  roof,  acted  as  a canopy  to  prevent  dust  falling, 
and  a curtain  of  mbugu  concealed  the  lower  parts  of  the  hut, 
in  front  of  which,  on  both  sides  of  the  king,  sat  about  a dozen  head 
men. 

This  was  all.  We  entered  and  took  seats  on  our  own  iron 
stools,  while  Bombay  placed  all  the  presents  upon  the  ground  be- 
fore the  throne.  As  no  greetings  were  exchanged,  and  all  at  first 
remained  as  silent  as  death,  I commenced,  after  asking  about  his 
health,  by  saying  I had  journeyed  six  long  years  (by  the  African 
computation  of  five  months  in  the  year)  for  the  pleasure  of  this 
meeting,  coming  by  Karague  instead  of  by  the  Nile,  because  the 
“ Wanya  Beri”  (Bari  people  at  Grondokoro)  had  defeated  the  proj- 
ects of  all  former  attempts  made  by  white  men  to  reach  Unyoro. 
The  purpose  of  my  coming  was-  to  ascertain  whether  his  majesty 
would  like  to  trade  with  our  country,  exchanging  ivory  for  arti- 
cles of  European  manufacture ; as,  should  he  do  so,  merchants 
would  come  here  in  the  same  way  as  they  went  from  Zanzibar  to 
Karagub.  Rumanika  and  Mtesa  were  both  anxious  for  trade,  and 
I felt  sorry  he  would  not  listen  to  my  advice  and  make  friends 
with  Mtesa ; for,  unless  the  influence  of  trade  was  brought  in  to 

* 1 double  rifle,  1 block-tin  box,  1 red  blanket,  1 brown  do.,  10  copper  wire,  4 
socks  full  of  different-colored  minute  beads,  2 socks  full  of  blue  and  white  pigeon 
eggs,  1 Rodgers’s  penknife,  2 books,  1 elastic  circle,  1 red  handkerchief,  1 bag  gun- 
caps,  1 pair  scissors,  1 pomatum-pot,  1 quart  bottle,  1 powder-flask,  7 lbs.  powder, 
1 dressing-case,  1 blacking-box,  1 brass  lock  and  key,  4 brass  handles,  8 brass  sock- 
ets, 7 chintz,  7 bindera,  1 red  bag,  1 pair  glass  spectacles,  1 lucifer-box. 

Gr  G 


466  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [1862. 

check  the  Waganda  from  pillaging  the  country,  nothing  would 
do  so. 

Kamrasi,  in  a very  quiet,  mild  manner,  instead  of  answering  the 
question,  told  us  of  the  absurd  stories  which  he  had  heard  from 
the  Waganda,  said  he  did  not  believe  them,  else  his  rivers,  de- 
prived of  their  fountains,  would  have  run  dry ; and  he  thought, 
if  we  did  eat  hills  and  the  tender  parts  of  mankind,  we  should 
have  had  enough  to  satisfy  our  appetites  before  we  reached  Un- 
yoro.  Now,  however,  he  was  glad  to  see  that,  although  our  hair 
was  straight  and  our  faces  white,  we  still  possessed  hands  and  feet 
like  other  men. 

The  present  was  then  opened,  and  every  thing  in  turn  placed 
upon  the  red  blanket.  The  goggles  created  some  mirth ; so  did 
the  scissors,  as  Bombay,  to  show  their  use,  clipped  his  beard ; and 
the  lucifers  were  considered  a wonder ; but  the  king  scarcely 
moved  or  uttered  any  remarks  till  all  was  over,  when,  at  the  insti- 
gation of  the  courtiers,  my  chronometer  was  asked  for  and  shown.. 
This  wonderful  instrument,  said  the  officers  (mistaking  it  for  my 
compass),  was  the  magic  horn  by  which  the  white  men  found  their 
way  every  where.  Kamrasi  said  he  must  have  it ; for,  besides  it, 
the  gun  was  the  only  thing  new  to  him.  The  chronometer,  how- 
ever, I said,  was  the  only  one  left,  and  could  not  possibly  be  part- 
ed with ; though,  if  Kamrasi  liked  to  send  men  to  Gfani,  a new 
one  could  be  obtained  for  him. 

Then  changing  the  subject,  much  to  my  relief,  Kamrasi  asked 
Bombay,  “ Who  governs  England?”  “A  woman.”  “Has  she 
any  children?”  “Yes,”  said  Bombay,  with  ready  impudence; 
“ these  are  two  of  them”  (pointing  to  Grant  and  myself).  That 
settled,  Kamrasi  wished  to  know  if  we  had  any  speckled  cows,  or 
cows  of  any  peculiar  color,  and  would  we  like  to  change  four  large 
cows  for  four  small  ones,  as  he  coveted  some  of  ours.  This  was 
a staggerer.  We  had  totally  failed,  then,  in  conveying  to  this  stu- 
pid king  the  impression  that  we  were  not  mere  traders,  ready  to 
bargain  with  him.  We  would  present  him  with  cows  if  we  had 
such  as  he  wanted,  but  we  could  not  bargain.  The  meeting  then 
broke  up  in  the  same  chilling  manner  as  it  began,  and  we  returned 
as  we  came,  but  no  sooner  reached  home  than  four  pots  of  pombe 
were  sent  us,  with  a hope  that  we  had  arrived  all  safely.  The 
present  gave  great  satisfaction.  The  Wanguana  accused  Frij  of 
having  “ unclean  hands,”  because  the  beef  had  not  lasted  so  long 
as  it  should  do;  it  being  a notable  fact  in  Mussulman  creed,  that 


UNYORO. 


Sept.] 


467 


unless  the  man’s  hands  are  pure  who  cuts  the  throat  of  an  animal, 
its  flesh  will  not  last  fresh  half  the  ordinary  time. 

19 th.  As  the  presents  given  yesterday  occupied  the  king’s  mind 
too  much  for  other  business,  I now  sent  to  offer  him  one  third  of 
the  guns  left  in  Uganda,  provided  he  would  send  some  messen- 
gers with  one  of  my  men  to  ask  Mtesa  for  them,  and  also  the  same 
proportion  of  the  sixty  loads  of  property  left  in  charge  of  Ruma- 
nika  at  Karague,  if  he  would  send  the  requisite  number  of  porters 
for  its  removal.  But  of  all  things,  I said,  I most  wished  to  send 
a letter  to  Petherick  at  Gani,  to  apprise  him  of  our  whereabouts, 
for  he  must  have  been  four  years  waiting  our  arrival  there,  and 
by  the  same  opportunity  I would  get  a watch  for  the  king.  He 
sent  us  to-day  two  pots  of  pombe,  one  sack  of  salt,  and  what  might 
be  called  a screw  of  butter,  with  an  assurance  that  the  half  of  ev- 
ery thing  which  came  to  his  house — and  every  thing  was  brought 
from  great  distances  in  boats — he  would  give  me ; but  for  the 
present  the  only  thing  he  was  in  need  of  was  some  medicine  or 
stimulants.  Farther,  I need  be  under  no  apprehension  if  I did 
not  find  men  at  once  to  go  on  the  three  respective  journeys;  it 
should  be  all  done  in  good  time,  for  he  loved  me  much,  and  de- 
sired to  show  us  so  much  respect  that  his  name  should  be  cele- 
brated for  it  in  songs  of  praise  until  he  was  bowed  down  by  years, 
and  even  after  death  it  should  be  remembered. 

I ascertained  then  that  the  salt,  which  was  very  white  and  pure, 
came  from  an  island  on  the  Little  Luca  Uzige,  about  sixty  miles 
west  from  the  Chaguzi  palacej  where  the  lake  is  said  to  be  forty 
or  fifty  miles  wide.  It  is  the  same  piece  of  water  we  heard  of  in 
Karague  as  the  Little  Luta  Uzige,  beyond  Utumbi;  and  the  same 
story  of  Unyoro  being  an  island  circumscribed  by  it  and  the  Vic- 
toria N’yanza  connected  by  the  Kile,  is  related  here,  showing  that 
both  the  Karague  and  Unyoro  people,  as  indeed  all  negroes  and 
Arabs,  have  the  common  defect  in  their  language  of  using  the 
same  word  for  a peninsula  and  an  island.  The  Waijasi — of  whom 
we  saw  a specimen  in  the  shape  of  an  old  woman,  with  her  upper 
lip  edged  with  a row  of  small  holes,  at  Karague — occupy  a large 
island  on  this  lake  named  Gasi,  and  sometimes  come  to  visit  Kam- 
rasi.  LTgungu,  a dependency  of  Kamrasi’s,  occupies  this  side  the 
lake,  and  on  the  opposite  side  is  Ulegga;  beyond  which,  in  about 
2°  1ST.  lat.  and  28°  E.  long.,  is  the  country  of  Uamachi;  and  far- 
ther west  still  about  2°,  the  Wilyanwantu,  or  cannibals,  who,  ac- 
cording to  the  report  both  here  and  at  Karague,  “ bury  cows,  but 


468 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


eat  men.”  These  distant  people  pay  their  homage  to  Kamrasi, 
though  they  have  six  degrees  of  longitude  to  travel  over.  They 
are,  I believe,  a portion  of  the  IN ’yam  N’yams — another  name  for 
cannibal — whose  country  Petherick  said  he  entered  in  1857-58. 
Among  the  other  wild  legends  about  this  people,  it  was  said  that 
the  Wily  an  wan  tu,  in  making  brotherhood,  exchanged  their  blood 
by  drinking  at  one  another’s  veins ; and,  in  lieu  of  butter  with 
their  porridge,  they  smear  it  with  the  fat  of  fried  human  flesh. 

20 tli.  I had  intended  for  to-day  an  expedition  to  the  lake ; but 
Kamrasi,  harboring  a wicked  design  that  we  should  help  in  an 
attack  on  his  brothers,  said  there  was  plenty  of  time  to  think  of 
that ; we  would  only  find  that  all  the  waters  united  go  to  Gani, 
and  he  wished  us  to  be  his  guests  for  three  or  four  months  at 
least.  Fifty  Gani  men  had  just  arrived  to  inform  him  that 
Rionga  had  lately  sent  ten  slaves  and  ten  ivory  tusks  to  Pethe- 
rick’s  post,  to  purchase  a gun ; but  the  answer  was,  that  a thou- 
sand times  as  much  would  not  purchase  a weapon  that  might  be 
used  against  us ; for  our  arrival  with  Kamrasi  had  been  heard 
of,  and  nothing  would  be  done  to  jeopardize  our  road. 

To  talk  over  this  matter,  the  king  invited  us  to  meet  him.  We 
went  as  before,  minus  the  flag  and  firing,  and  met  a similar  re- 
ception. The  Gani  news  was  talked  over,  and  we  proposed  send- 
ing Bombay  with  a letter  at  once.  I could  get  no  answer;  so, 
to  pass  the  time,  we  wished  to  know  from  the  king’s  own  lips  if 
he  had  prevented  Baraka  from  going  to  Gani,  as  he  had  carried 
orders  from  Rumanika  as  well  as  from  myself  to  visit  Kamrasi, 
to  give  him  fifty  egg -beads,  seventy  necklaces  of  mtendb,  and 
seventy  necklaces  of  kutuamnazi  beads,  and  then  to  pass  on  to 
Gani  and  give  its  chief  fifty  egg -beads  and  forty  necklaces  of 
kutuamnazi.  Kamrasi  replied,  “I  did  not  allow  him  to  go,  be- 
cause I heard  you  had  gone  to  Uganda and  Dr.  K’yengo’s  men 
happening  to  be  present,  added,  “ Baraka  used  up  all  the  beads 
save  forty,  which  he  gave  to  Kamrasi,  living  upon  goats  all  the 
way ; and  when  he  left,  took  back  a tusk  of  ivory.” 

This  little  controversy  was  amusing,  but  did  not  suit  Kamrasi, 
who  had  his  eye  on  a certain  valuable  possession  of  mine.  He 
made  his  approach  toward  it  by  degrees,  beginning  with  a truly 
royal  speech  thus:  “I  am  the  king  of  all  these  countries,  even  in- 
cluding Uganda  and  Kidi — though  the  Kidi  people  are  such  sav- 
ages they  obey  no  man’s  orders — and  you  are  great  men  also,  sit- 
ting on  chairs  before  kings ; it  therefore  ill  becomes  us  to  talk  of 


Sept.] 


UNYORO. 


469 


such  trifles  as  beads,  especially  as  I know  if  you  ever  return  this 
way  I shall  get  more  from  you.”  “Begging  your  majesty’s  par- 
don,” I said,  “the  mention  of  beads  only  fell  in  the  way  of  our 
talk  like  stones  in  a walk ; our  motive  being  to  get  at  the  truth 
of  what  Baraka  did  and  said  here,  as  his  conduct  in  returning 
after  receiving  strict  orders  from  Biimanika  and  ourselves  to  open 
the  road  is  a perfect  enigma  to  us.  We  could  not  have  entered 
Unyoro  at  all  excepting  through  Uganda,  and  we  could  not  have 
put  foot  in  Uganda  without  visiting  its  king.”  Without  deign- 
ing to  answer,  Ivamrasi,  in  the  metaphorical  language  of  a black 
man,  said,  “ It  would  be  unbecoming  of  me  to  keep  secrets  from 
you,  and  therefore  I will  tell  you  at  once ; I am  sadly  afflicted 
with  a disorder  which  you  alone  can  cure.”  “What  is  it,  your 
majesty?  I can  see  nothing  in  your  face;  it  may  perhaps  re- 
quire a private  inspection.”  “ My  heart,”  he  said,  “ is  troubled, 
because  you  will  not  give  me  your  magic  horn  — the  thing,  I 
mean,  in  your  pocket,  which  you  pulled  out  one  day  when  Budja 
and  Vittagura  were  discussing  the  way;  and  you  no  sooner  looked 
at  it  than  you  said,  ‘That  is  the  way  to  the  palace.’  ” 

So ! the  sly  fellow  has  been  angling  for  the  chronometer  all 
this  time,  and  I can  get  nothing  out  of  him  until  he  has  got  it — 
the  road  to  the  lake,  the  road  to  Grani,  every  thing  seemed  risked 
on  his  getting  my  watch,  a chronometer  worth  £50,  which  would 
be  spoiled  in  his  hands  in  one  day.  To  undeceive  him,  and  tell 
him  it  was  the  compass  which  I looked  at  and  not  the  watch,  I 
knew  would  only  end  with  my  losing  that  instrument  as  well ; so 
I told  him  it  was  not  my  guide,  but  a time-keeper,  made  for  the 
purpose  of  knowing  what  time  to  eat  my  dinner  by.  It  was  the 
only  chronometer  I had  with  me ; and  I begged  he  would  have 
patience  until  Bombay  returned  from  Grani  with  another,  when 
he  should  have  the  option  of  taking  this  or  the  new  one.  “ ISTo ; 
I must  have  the  one  in  your  pocket ; pull  it  out  and  show  it.” 
This  was  done,  and  I placed  it  on  the  ground,  saying,  “ The  in- 
strument is  yours,  but  I must  keep  it  until  another  one  comes.” 
“No;  I must  have  it  now,  and  will  send  it  you  three  times  every 
day  to  look  at.” 

The  watch  went,  gold  chain  and  all,  without  any  blessings  fol- 
lowing it;  and  the  horrid  king  asked  if  I could  make  up  another 
magic  horn,  for  he  hoped  he  had  deprived  us  of  the  power  of 
traveling,  and  plumed  himself  on  the  notion  that  the  glory  of 
opening  the  road  would  devolve  upon  himself.  When  I told 


470 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


him  that  to  purchase  another  would  cost  five  hundred  cows,  the 
whole  party  were  more  confirmed  than  ever  as  to  its  magical 
powers : for  who  in  his  senses  would  give  five  hundred  cows  for 
the  mere  gratification  of  seeing  at  what  time  his  dinner  should  be 
eaten  ? Thus  ended  the  second  meeting.  Kamrasi  now  said  the 
Gani  men  would  feast  on  beef  to-morrow,  and  the  next  day  be 
ready  to  start  with  my  men  for  Petherick’s  camp.  He  then  ac- 
companied us  to  the  boats,  spear  in  hand,  and  saw  us  cross  the 
water.  Long  tail-hairs  of  the  giraffe  surrounded  his  neck,  on 
which  little  balls  and  other  ornaments  of  minute  beads,  after  the 
Uganda  fashion,  were  worked.  In  the  evening  four  pots  of  pombd 
and  a pack  of  flour  were  brought,  together  with  the  chronometer, 
which  was  sent  to  be  wound  up — damaged  of  course — the  sec- 
onds-hand had  been  dislodged. 

21s/.  I heard  from  Kidgwiga  that  some  of  those  Gani  men  now 
ordered  to  go  with  Bombay  had  actually  been  visiting  here  when 
the  latter  shot  his  first  cow  at  the  palace,  but  had  gone  to  their 
homes  to  give  information  of  us,  and  had  returned  again.  Eager 
to  get  on  with  my  journey,  and  see  European  faces  again,  I be- 
sought the  king  to  let  us  depart,  as  our  work  was  all  finished 
here,  since  he  had  assured  us  he  would  like  to  trade  with  En- 
gland. The  N’yanswenge — meaning  Petherick’s  party  — who 
have  hitherto  been  afraid  to  come  here,  would  do  so  now,  when 
they  had  seen  us  pass  safely  down,  and  could  receive  my  guns 
and  property  left  to  come  from  Uganda  and  Karague,  which  we 
ourselves  could  not  wait  for.  Kamrasi,  thinking  me  angry  for 
his  having  taken  the  watch  so  rudely  out  of  my  pocket,  took 
fright  at  the  message,  sent  some  of  his  attendants  quickly  back  to 
me,  requesting  me  to  keep  the  instrument  until  another  arrived, 
and  begged  I would  never  say  I wished  to  leave  his  house  again. 

22 d.  Kamrasi  sent  to  say  Bombay  was  not  to  start  to-day,  but 
to-morrow,  so  we  put  the  screw  on  again,  and  said  we  must  go  at 
once;  if  he  would  give  us  guides  to  Gani,  we  would  return  him 
his  twenty  cows  and  seven  goats  with  pleasure.  I let  him  under- 
stand we  suspected  he  was  keeping  us  here  to  fight  his  brothers, 
and  told  him  he  must  at  once  know  we  would  never  lift  hand 
against  them.  It  was  contrary  to  the  laws  of  our  land.  “I  have 
got  no  orders  to  enter  into  black  men’s  quarrels,  and  my  mother” 
(the  queen),  “ whom  I see  every  night  in  my  sleep  calling  me 
home,  would  be  very  angry  if  she  heard  of  it.  Kumanika  once 
asked  me  to  fight  his  brothers  Ptogero  and  M’yongo,  but  my  only 


UNYORO. 


Sept.] 


471 


reply  to  all  had  been  the  same — I have  no  orders  to  fight  with, 
only  to  make  friends  of,  the  great  kings  of  Africa.” 

The  game  seemed  now  to  be  won.  At  once  Kamrasi  ordered 
Bombay  to  prepare  for  the  journey.  Five  Wanyoro,  five  Chopi 
men,  and  five  Gani  men,  were  to  escort  him.  There  was  no  ob- 
jection to  his  carrying  arms.  The  moment  he  returned,  which 
ought  to  be  in  little  more  than  a fortnight,  we  would  all  go  to- 
gether. An  earnest  request  was  at  the  same  time  made  that  I 
would  not  bully  him  in  the  mean  time  with  any  more  applica- 
tions to  depart.  So  Bombay  and  Mabruki,  carrying  their  mus- 
kets, and  a map  and  letter  for  Petherick,  departed. 

23 d and  24A  Kamrasi,  presuming  he  had  gained  favor  in  our 
eyes,  sent,  begging  to  know  how  we  had  slept,  and  said  he  would 
like  us  to  inform  him  what  part  of  his  journey  Bombay  had  this 
morning  reached,  a fact  which  he  had  no  doubt  must  be  divinable 
through  the  medium  of  our  books.  The  reply  was,  that  Bombay’s 
luck  was  so  good  we  had  no  doubt  regarding  his  success;  but 
now  he  had  gone,  and  our  days  here  were  numbered,  we  should 
like  to  see  the  palace,  his  fat  wives  and  children,  as  well  as  the 
Wanyoro’s  dances,  and  all  the  gayety  of  the  place.  We  did  not 
think  our  reception-hut  by  the  river  sufficiently  dignified,  and 
our  residence  here  was  altogether  like  that  of  prisoners — seeing 
no  one,  knowing  no  one.  In  answer  to  this,  Kamrasi  sent  one 
pot  of  pombe  and  five  fowls,  begging  we  would  not  be  alarmed ; 
we  should  see  every  thing  in  good  time,  if  we  would  but  have 
patience,  for  he  considered  us  very  great  men,  as  he  was  a great 
man  himself,  and  we  had  come  at  his  invitation.  He  must  re- 
quest, in  the  mean  time,  that  we  would  send  no  more  messages  by 
his  officers,  as  such  messages  are  never  conveyed  properly.  At 
present  there  was  a great  deal  of  business  in  the  palace. 

W e asked  for  some  butter,  but  could  get  none,  as  all  the  milk 
in  the  palace  was  consumed  by  the  wives  and  children,  drinking 
all  day  long,  to  make  themselves  immovably  fat. 

25 th.  In  the  morning,  the  commander-in-chief  wished  us  to  cast 
a horoscope,  and  see  where  Bombay  was,  and  if  he  were  getting 
on  well.  That  being  negatived,  he  told  us  to  put  our  hut  in  or- 
der, as  Kamrasi  was  coming  to  see  us.  Accordingly,  we  made 
every  thing  as  smart  as  possible,  hanging  the  room  round  with 
maps,  horns,  and  skins  of  animals,  and  placed  a large  box,  cover- 
ed with  a red  blanket,  as  a throne  for  the  king  to  sit  upon.  As 
he  advanced,  my  men,  forming  a guard  of  honor,  fired  three  shots 


472 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


immediately  on  his  setting  foot  upon  our  side  the  river;  while 
Frij,  with  his  boatswain’s  whistle,  piped  the  “Rogue’s  March,” 
to  prepare  us  for  his  majesty’s  approach.  We  saluted  him,  hat  in 
hand,  and,  leading  the  way,  showed  him  in.  He  was  pleased  to 
be  complimentary,  remarking  what  waseja  (fine  men)  we  were, 
and  took  his  seat.  We  sat  on  smaller  boxes,  to  appear  humble, 
while  his  escort  of  black  “swells”  filled  the  doorway,  squatting 
on  the  ground,  so  as  to  stop  the  light  and  interfere  with  our  dec- 
orations. 

After  the  first  salutations,  the  king  remarked  the  head  of  a 
n’samma  buck,  and  handled  it;  then  noticed  my  musquito-cur- 
tains  hanging  over  the  bed,  and  begged  for  them.  He  was  told 
they  could  not  be  given  until  Bombay  returned,  as  the  musqui- 
toes  would  eat  us  up.  “ But  there  were  two,”  said  the  escort, 
“ for  we  have  seen  one  in  the  other  hut.”  That  was  true ; but 
were  there  not  two  white  men?  However,  if  the  king  wanted 
gauze,  here  was  a smart  gauze  veil — and  the  veil  vanished  at 
once.  The  iron  camp-bed  was  next  inspected  and  admired ; then 
the  sextant,  which  was  coveted  and  begged  for,  but  without  suc- 
cess, much  to  the  astonishment  of  the  king,  as  his  attendants  had 
led  him  to  expect  he  would  get  any  thing  he  asked  for.  Then 
the  thermometers  were  wanted  and  refused ; also  table-knives, 
spoons,  forks,  and  even  cooking-pots,  for  we  had  no  others,  and 
could  not  part  with  them.  The  books  of  birds  and  animals  had 
next  to  be  seen,  and,  being  admired,  were  coveted,  the  king  offer- 
ing one  of  the  books  I first  gave  him  in  exchange  for  one  of  these. 
In  fact,  he  wanted  to  fleece  us  of  every  thing ; so,  to  shut  him  up, 
I said  I would  not  part  with  one  bird  for  one  hundred  tusks  of 
ivory ; they  were  all  the  collections  I had  made  in  Africa,  and  if 
I parted  with  them  my  journey  would  go  for  nothing;  but  if  he 
wanted  a few  drawings  of  birds  I would  do  some  for  him : at 
present  I wished  to  speak  to  him.  “Well,  what  is  it?  we  are  all 
attention.”  “I  wish  to  know  positively  if  you  would  like  En- 
glish traders  to  come  here  regularly,  as  the  Arabs  do  to  trade  at 
Karague  ? and  if  so,  would  you  give  me  a pembd  (magic  horn)  as 
a warrant  that  every  body  may  know  Kamrasi,  king  of  Unyoro, 
desires  it?” 

Kamrasi  replied,  “I  like  your  proposition  very  much;  you 
shall  have  the  horn  you  ask  for,  either  large  or  small,  just  as  you 
please ; and  after  you  have  gone,  should  we  hear  any  English  are 
at  Gani  wishing  to  come  here,  as  my  brothers  are  in  the  way,  we 


Sept.] 


UNYORO. 


473 


will  advance  with  spears  while  they  approach  with  guns,  and,  be- 
tween us  both,  my  brothers  must  fly ; for  I myself  will  head  the 
expedition.  But,  now  you  have  had  your  say,  I will  have  mine, 
if  you  will  listen.”  “All  right,  your  majesty;  what  is  it?”  “I 
am  constantly  stricken  with  fever  and  pains,  for  which  I know  no 
remedy  but  cautery ; my  children  die  young ; my  family  is  not 
large  enough  to  uphold  my  dignity  and  station  in  life ; in  fact,  1 
am  infirm  and  want  stimulants,  and  I wish  you  to  prescribe  for 
me,  which,  considering  you  have  found  your  way  to  this,  where 
nobody  came  before,  must  be  easy  to  you.”  Two  pills  and  a 
draught  for  the  morning  were  given  as  a preliminary  measure, 
argument  being  of  no  avail ; and,  to  our  delight,  the  king  said  it 
was  time  to  go. 

We  jumped  off  our  seats  to  show  him  the  way,  hoping  our  per- 
secutions were  over ; but  still  he  sat  and  sat,  until  at  length,  find- 
ing we  did  not  take  the  hint  to  give  him  a parting  present,  he 
said,  “ I never  visited  any  big  man’s  house  without  taking  home 
some  trifle  to  show  my  wife  and  children.”  “ Indeed,  great  king, 
then  you  did  not  come  to  visit  us,  but  to  beg,  eh?  You  shall 
have  nothing,  positively  nothing ; for  we  will  not  have  it  said  the 
king  did  not  come  to  see  us,  but  to  beg.”  Kamrasi’s  face  changed 
color ; he  angrily  said,  “ Irokh  togend”  (let  us  rise  and  go),  and 
forthwith  walked  straight  out  of  the  hut.  Frij  piped,  but  no  guns 
fired ; and  as  he  asked  the  reason  why,  he  was  told  it  would  be 
offensive  to  say  we  were  glad  he  was  going.  The  king  was  evi- 
dently not  pleased,  for  no  pornbe  came  to-day. 


474 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

unyoro — Continued. 

The  Ceremonies  of  the  New  Moon. — Kamrasi’s  Rule  and  Discipline. — An  Embassy 
from  Uganda,  and  its  Results. — The  rebellious  Brothers. — An  African  Sorcerer 
and  his  Incantations. — The  Kamraviona  of  Unyoro. — Burial  Customs. — Ethio- 
pian Legends. — Complicated  Diplomacy  for  our  Detention. — Proposal  to  send 
Princes  to  England. — We  get  away. 

2 6th.  We  found  that  the  palace  was  shut  up  in  consequence 
of  the  new  moon,  seen  for  the  first  time  last  evening ; and  inces- 
sant drumming  was  the  order  of  the  day.  Still,  private  inter- 
views might  be  granted,  and  I sent  to  inquire  after  the  state  of 
the  king’s  health.  The  reply  was  that  the  medicine  had  not  been 
taken,  and  the  king  was  very  angry  because  nothing  was  given 
him  when  he  took  the  trouble  to  call  on  us.  He  never  called  at 
a big  man’s  house  and  left  it  mwiko. (empty-handed)  before;  if 
there  was  nothing  else  to  dispose  of,  could  Bana  not  have  given 
him  a bag  of  beads  ? 

To  save  us  from  this  kind  of  incessant  annoyance,  I now  thought 
it  would  be  our  best  policy  to  mount  the  high  horse  and  bully 
him.  Accordingly,  we  tied  up  a bag  of  the  commonest  mixed 
beads,  added  the  king’s  chronometer,  and  sent  them  to  Kamrasi 
with  a violent  message  that  we  were  thoroughly  disgusted  with 
all  that  had  happened ; the  beads  were  for  the  poor  beggar  who 
came  to  our  house  yesterday,  not  to  see  us,  but  to  beg;  and  as  we 
did  not  desire  the  acquaintance  of  beggars,  we  had  made  up  our 
minds  never  to  call  again,  nor  receive  any  more  bread  or  wine 
from  the  king. 

This  appeared  to  be  a hit.  Kamrasi,  evidently  taken  aback, 
said,  if  he  thought  he  should  have  offended  us  by  begging,  he 
would  not  have  begged.  He  was  not  a poor  man,  for  he  had 
many  cows,  but  he  was  a beggar,  of  course,  when  beads  were  in 
the  question ; and,  having  unwittingly  offended,  as  he  desired  our 
friendship,  he  trusted  his  offense  would  be  forgiven.  On  opening 
the  chronometer,  he  again  wrenched  back  the  seconds-hand,  and 
sent  it  for  repair,  together  with  two  pots  of  pombe  as  a peace- 


Sept.] 


UNYORO. 


475 


offering.  Frij,  who  accompanied  the  deputation,  overheard  the 
counselors  tell  their  king  that  the  Waganda  were  on  their  way 
back  to  Unyoro  to  snatch  us  away ; on  hearing  which,  the  king- 
asked  his  men  if  they  would  ever  permit  it ; and,  handling  his 
spear  as  if  for  battle,  said  at  the  same  time  he  would  lose  his  own 
head  before  they  should  touch  his  guests.  Then,  turning  to  Frij, 
he  said,  “What  would  you  do  if  they  came?  go  back  with  them?” 
To  which  Frij  said,  “No,  never,  when  Gani  is  so  near;  they  might 
cut  our  heads  off,  but  that  is  all  they  could  do.”  The  watch  be- 
ing by  this  time  repaired,  it  gave  me  the  opportunity  of  sending 
Kidgwiga  back  to  the  palace  to  say  we  trusted  Kamrasi  would 
allow  Budja  to  come  here,  if  only  with  one  woman  to  carry  his 
pombe,  else  Mtesa  would  take  offense,  form  an  alliance  with  Ri- 
onga,  and  surround  the  place  with  warriors,  for  it  was  not  becom- 
ing in  great  kings  to  treat  civil  messengers  like  dogs. 

The  reply  to  this  was,  that  Kamrasi  was  very  much  pleased 
with  my  fatherly  wisdom  and  advice,  and  would  act  up  to  it,  al- 
lowing Budja  only  to  approach  with  one  woman ; we  need,  how- 
ever, be  under  no  apprehensions,  for  Kamrasi’s  power  was  infinite; 
the  Gani  road  should  be  opened  even  at  the  spear’s  point ; he  had 
been  beating  the  big  drum  in  honor  of  us  the  whole  day ; he 
would  not  allow  any  beggars  to  come  and  see  us,  for  he  wanted 
us  all  to  himself,  and  for  this  reason  had  ordered  a fence  to  be 
built  all  round  our  house ; but  he  had  got  no  present  from*Grant 
yet,  though  all  he  wanted  was  his  musquito-curtains,  while  he 
wished  my  picture-books  to  show  his  women,  and  be  returned. 
We  sent  a picture  of  Mtesa  as  a gift,  the  two  books  to  look  at, 
and  an  acknowledgment  that  the  musquito-curtains  were  his, 
only  he  must  have  patience  until  Bombay  arrived ; but  his  propo- 
sition about  the  fence  we  rejected  with  scorn.  The  king  had 
been  raising  an  army  to  fight  Rionga — the  true  reason,  we  sus- 
pect, for  the  beating  of  the  drum. 

21th  and  28 th.  There  was  drumming  and  music  all  day  and 
night,  and  the  army  was  being  increased  to  a thousand  men,  but 
we  poor  prisoners  could  see  nothing  of  it.  Frij  was  therefore 
sent  to  inspect  the  armament  and  bring  us  all  the  news.  Some 
of  N’yamyonjo’s  men,  seeing  mine  armed  with  carbines,  became 
very  inquisitive  about  them,  and  asked  if  they  were  the  instru- 
ments which  shot  their  men  on  the  Nile — one  in  the  arm,  who 
died ; the  other  on  the  top  of  the  shoulder,  who  was  recovering. 
The  drums  were  kept  in  private  rooms,  to  which  a select  few  only 


476 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


were  admitted.  Kamrasi  conducts  all  business  himself,  awarding 
punishments  and  seeing  them  carried  out.  The  most  severe  in- 
strument of  chastisement  is  a knob-stick,  sharpened  at  the  back, 
like  that  used  in  Uganda,  for  breaking  a man’s  neck  before  he  is 
thrown  into  the  N’yanza;  but  this  severity  is  seldom  resorted  to, 
Kamrasi  being  of  a mild  disposition  compared  with  Mtesa,  whom 
he  invariably  alludes  to  when  ordering  men  to  be  flogged,  telling 
them  that,  were  they  in  Uganda,  their  heads  would  suffer  instead 
of  their  backs.  In  the  day’s  work  at  the  palace,  army  collecting, 
ten  officers  were  bound  because  they  failed  to  bring  a sufficient 
number  of  fighting  men,  but  were  afterward  released  on  their 
promising  to  bring  more. 

Nothing  could  be  more  filthy  than  the  state  of  the  palace  and 
all  the  lanes  leading  up  to  it : it  was  well,  perhaps,  that  we  were 
never  expected  to  go  there,  for  without  stilts  and  respirators  it 
would  have  been  impracticable,  such  is  the  dirty  nature  of  the 
people.  The  king’s  cows,  even,  are  kept  in  his  palace  inclosure, 
the  calves  actually  entering  the  hut,  where,  like  a farmer,  Kam- 
rasi walks  among  them  up  to  his  ankles  in  filth,  and,  inspecting 
them,  issues  his  orders  concerning  them.  "What  has  to  be  selected 
for  his  guests  he  singles  out  himself. 

Dr.  K’yengo’s  men,  who  had  been  sent  three  times  into  action 
against  the  refractory  brothers,  asked  leave  to  return  to  Karague ; 
but  tlfe  king,  who  did  not  fear  for  their  lives  when  his  work  was 
to  be  done,  would  not  give  them  leave,  lest  accident  should  befall 
them  on  the  way.  We  found  no  prejudice  against  eating  butter 
among  these  Wahuma,  for  they  not  only  sold  us  some,  but  mixed 
it  with  porridge  and  ate  it  themselves. 

29th.  The  king  has  appointed  a special  officer  to  keep  our  table 
supplied  with  sweet  potatoes,  and  sent  us  a pot  of  pombd,  with 
his  excuses  for  not  seeing  us,  as  business  was  so  pressing,  and 
would  continue  to  be  so  until  the  army  marched.  Budja  and 
Kasoro  were  again  reported  to  be  near  with  a force  of  fifty  Wa- 
ganda,  prepared  to  snatch  us  away  ; and  the  king,  fearing  the 
consequences,  had  sent  to  inform  Budja,  that  if  he  dared  attempt 
to  approach,  he  would  slip  us  off  in  boats  to  Gani,  and  then  fight 
it  out  with  the  Waganda;  for  his  guests,  since  they  had  been 
handed  over  to  him,  had  been  treated  with  every  possible  re- 
spect. 

To  keep  Kamrasi  to  his  promise,  as  we  particularly  wished  to 
hear  the  Uganda  news,  Frij  was  sent  to  inform  him  on  my  behalf 


Sept.] 


UNYOKO. 


477 


that  Mtesa  only  wished  to  make  friends  with  all  the  great  kings 
surrounding  his  country  before  his  coronation  took  place,  when  his 
brothers  would  be  burnt,  and  he  would  cease  to  take  advice  from 
his  mother.  To  treat  his  messengers  disrespectfully  could  do  no 
good,  and  might  provoke  a war,  when  we  should  see  my  deserters, 
joined  with  the  Waganda,  really  coming  in  force  against  us; 
whereas,  if  we  saw  Budja,  we  could  satisfy  him,  and  Mtesa  too, 
and  obviate  any  such  calamity.  The  reply  was,  that  Kamrasi 
would  arrange  for  our  having  a meeting  with  Budja  alone  if  we 
wished  it ; he  did  not  fear  my  deserters  siding  with  King  Mtesa, 
but  he  detested  the  Waganda,  and  could  not  bear  to  see  them  in 
his  country. 

BOth.  At  breakfast-time  we  heard  that  my  old  friend  Kasoro 
had  come  to  our  camp  without  permission,  to  the  surprise  of  every 
body,  attended  by  all  his  boys,  leaving  Budja  and  his  children,  on 
account  of  sickness,  at  the  camp  assigned  to  the  Waganda,  five 
miles  off.  Kasoro  wished  to  speak  to  us,  and  we  invited  him  into 
the  hut ; but  the  interview  could  not  be  permitted  until  Kam- 
rasi’s  wishes  on  the  subject  had  been  ascertained.  In  a little 
while  the  kamraviona,  having  seen  Kamrasi,  said  we  might  con- 
verse with  one  another  while  his  officers  were  present  listening, 
and  sent  a cow  as  a present  for  the  Waganda.  Kasoro,  with  his 
children,  now  came  before  us  in  their  usual  merry  manner,  and, 
after  saluting,  told  us  how  the  deserters,  on  reaching  Uganda, 
begged  for  leave  to  proceed  to  Karague ; but  Mtesa,  who  would 
only  allow  two  of  them  to  approach  him,  abused  them,  saying, 
“ Did  I not  command  you  to  take  Bana  to  Gani  at  all  risks?  If 
there  was  no  road  by  land,  you  were  to  go  by  water ; or,  if  that 
failed,  to  go  under  ground,  or  in  the  air  above ; and  if  he  died, 
you  were  to  die  with  him  : what,  then,  do  you  mean  by  deserting 
him  and  flying  here  ? You  shall  not  move  a yard  from  this  un- 
til I receive  a messenger  from  him  to  hear  what  he  has  got  to  say 
on  the  matter.”  Mtesa  would  not  take  their  arms,  even  at  the 
desire  of  Budja,  on  my  behalf;  for,  as  no  messenger  on  my  be- 
half came  to  him,  he  would  not  believe  what  Budja  said,  and 
feared  to  touch  any  of  our  property.  The  chief  item  of  court 
news  was,  that  Mtesa  had  shot  a buffalo  which  was  attacking  him 
behind  his  palace,  and  made  his  wakungu  carry  the  animal  bod- 
ily, while  life  was  in  it,  into  his  court.  The  ammunition  I wrote 
for  to  Bumanika  had  been  brought  by  Maula, 

As  Kasoro  still  remained  silent  with  regard  to  Mtesa’s  message, 


478 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


I told  him  we  shot  two  of  N’yamyonjo’s  men  on  our  retreat  up 
the  Nile,  and  that  Kamrasi  turned  us  back  because  some  mis- 
creant Waganda  had  forged  lies  and  told  him  we  were  terrible 
monsters,  who  ate  hills  and  human  flesh,  and  drank  up  all  the 
water  of  the  lake.  lie  laughed,  but  still  was  silent ; so  I said, 
“What  message  have  you  brought  from  Mtesa?”  To  which,  in 
a timid,  modest  kind  of  manner,  he  said,  “Bana  knows — what 
more  need  I say?  Has  he  forgotten  Mtbsa,  who  loves  him  so?” 
I said,  “No,  indeed,  I have  not  forgotten  Mtesa;  and,  moreover, 
as  I expected  you  back  again,  I have  sent  Bombay  to  bring  the 
stimulants  and  all  the  things  I promised  Mtesa  from  Gani;  in 
two  or  three  days  he  will  return.”  “ No,”  said  Kasoro,  “ that  is 
not  it ; we  must  go  to  Gani  with  you ; for  Mtesa  says  he  loves 
you  so  much  he  will  never  allow  you  to  part  from  his  hand  until 
his  servants  have  seen  you  safely  at  your  homes.” 

I replied,  “ If  Mtdsa  wishes  you  to  see  my  vessels  and  all  the 
wonders  they  contain,  as  far  as  I am  concerned  you  may  do  so, 
and  I shall  be  only  too  happy  to  show  you  a little  English  hospi- 
tality ; but  the  road  is  in  Kamrasi’s  hands,  and  his  wishes  must 
now  be  heard.”  The  commander-in-chief,  now  content  with  all 
he  had  heard,  went  to  Kamrasi  to  receive  his  orders,  while  I gave 
Kasoro  a feast  oi  porridge  and  salt,  with  pombe  to  wash  it  down, 
and  a cow  to  take  home  with  him ; for  the  poor  creatures  said 
they  were  all  starving,  as  the  Wanyoro  would  not  allow  them  to 
take  a single  plantain  from  the  field  until  Kamrasi’s  permission 
had  been  given. 

Kamrasi’s  reply  now  arrived ; it  was  to  the  following  effect: 
“ Tell  my  children,  the  Waganda,  they  were  never  turned  out  of 
Unyoro  by  my  orders:  if  they  wish  to  go  to  Gani,  they  can  do 
so;  but,  first  of  all,  they  must  return  to  Mtesa,  and  ask  him  to  de- 
liver up  all  of  Bana’s  men.”  I answered,  “No;  if  any  one  of 
those  scoundrels  who  has  deserted  me  ever  dares  show  his  face  to 
me  again,  I will  shoot  him  like  a dog.  Moreover,  I want  Mtesa 
to  take  their  guns  from  them,  and,  without  taking  life,  to  trans- 
port them  all  to  an  island  on  the  N’yanza,  where  they  can  spend 
their  days  in  growing  plantains ; for  it  is  such  men  who  prevent 
our  traveling  in  the  country  and  visiting  kings.”  Kasoro  on  this 
said,  “Mtesa  will  do  so  in  a minute  if  you  send  a servant  to  him, 
but  he  won’t  if  we  only  say  you  wish  it.” 

The  commander-in-chief  then  added,  as  to  Kasoro’s  wish  to  ac- 
company me,  “If  Mtesa  will  send  another  time  one  of  his  people 


Oct.] 


UNYORO. 


479 


whose  life  he  wishes  sacrificed  on  the  journey,  or  tells  us,  Here 
is  a man  whom  I wish  you  to  send  to  Gani  at  all  hazards,  and 
without  responsibility  for  his  life  on  our  part,  we  will  be  very 
glad  to  send  him;  but  as  we  are  at  war  with  the  Gani  people  con- 
tinually, there  will  be  no  security  for  a Mganda’s  life  there.”  To 
this  I added,  “Now,  Kasoro,  you  see  how  it  is;  Kamrasi  does  not 
wish  you  to  go  to  Gani,  so  if  you  take  my  advice  you  will  return 
to  Mtesa.  Give  this  tin  cartridge-box,  which  first  came  from  him, 
back  to  him  again,  to  show  him  you  have  seen  me,  and  say,  This 
is  Bana’s  letter;  he  wishes  you  to  transport  the  deserters  and 
seize  their  guns.  The  guns,  of  course,  I shall  want  again  at  some 
other  time,  when  I will  send  one  of  my  English  children  to  visit 
him ; for  now  Kamrasi  has  opened  his  country  to  us,  and  given 
us  leave  to  come  and  purchase  ivory,  I never  shall  be  very  far 
away.”  I gave  them  three  pills  for  Budja,  blistered  two  of  the 
pages,  and  started  the  whole  merrily  off,  Kasoro  asking  me  to 
send  Mtesa  some  pretty  things  from  England  such  as  he  never 
saw. 

ls£.  Kamrasi  sent  his  commander-in-chief  to  inquire  after  my 
health,  and  to  say  Budja  had  left  in  fear  and  trembling  lest  Mtesa  * 
should  cut  all  their  heads  off  for  failing  in  the  mission ; but  he 
had  sent  Kidgwiga’s  brother  with  a pot  of  pombe  to  escort  the 
Waganda  beyond  his  frontier,  and  cheer  them  on  the  way;  for 
the  tin  cartridge-box,  he  thought,  would  save  their  lives  by  satis- 
fying Mtesa  they  had  seen  me.  The  commander-in-chief  then 
told  me  Kamrasi  did  not  wish  them  to  accompany  me  through 
Kidi,  for  the  Kidi  people  don’t  like  the  Waganda,  and,  discover- 
ing their  nationality  by  the  fullness  of  their  teeth,  would  bring 
trouble  on  us  while  trying  to  kill  them.  I said  I thanked  Kam- 
rasi for  his  having  treated  the  Waganda  with  such  marked  re- 
spect, in  allowing  them  to  see  me,  and  sending  them  back  with  an 
escort;  but  I thought  it  would  have  been  better  if  he  had  spoken 
the  truth  plainly  out,  for  then  I could  have  told  them  I feared  to 
have  them  in  company  with  me.  In  return  for  my  civilities,  the 
king  then  sent  one  of  his  Chopi  officers  to  see  me,  who  went  four 
stages  with  Bombay,  and  he  also  sent  some  rich  beads  which  he 
wished  me  to  look  at.  They  were  nicely  kept  in  a neat  though 
very  large  casing  of  rush  pith,  and  were  those  sent  as  a letter  from 
Gani  to  inform  him  that  we  were  expected  to  come  via  Karague. 
After  this,  to  keep  us  in  good-humor,  Kamrasi  sent  to  inform  us 
that  some  Gani  men,  twenty-five  in  number,  had  just  arrived,  and 


480 


TI1E  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


had  given,  him  a lion  skin,  several  tippet  monkey  skins,  and  some 
giraffe  hair,  as  well  as  a stick  of  copper  or  brass  wire.  Bombay 
was  met  by  them  on  the  confines  of  Gani. 

2d.  The  king  sent  me  a pot  of  pombe  to-day,  inquiring  after 
my  health,  and  saying  he  would  like  to  take  the  medicine  I gave 
him  if  I would  send  Frij  over  to  administer  it,  but  he  would  be 
ashamed  to  swallow  pills  before  me.  Hitherto  he  had  not  been 
able  to  take  the  medicine  from  press  of  business  in  collecting  an 
army  to  fight  his  brothers ; but  as  his  troops  would  all  leave  for 
war  to-day,  he  expected  to  have  leisure. 

In  plying  the  kamraviona  to  try  if  we  could  get  rid  of  the  an- 
noying restraints  which  made  our  residence  here  a sort  of  im- 
prisonment, I discovered  that  the  whole  affair  was  not  one  of 
blunder  or  accident,  but  that  we  actually  were  prisoners  thus  by 
design.  It  appeared  that  Kamrasi’s  brothers,  when  they  heard 
we  were  coming  into  Unyoro,  murmured,  and  said  to  the  king, 
“ Why  are  you  bringing  such  guests  among  us,  who  will  practice 
all  kinds  of  diabolical  sorcery,  and  bring  evil  on  us?”  To  which 
Kamrasi  replied,  “I  have  invited  them  to  come,  and  they  shall 
* come ; and  if  they  bring  evil  with  them,  let  that  all  fall  on  m}r 
shoulders,  for  you  shall  not  see  them.”  He  then  built  a palaver- 
house  on  the  banks  of  the  Kafu  to  receive  us  in  privately;  and 
when  we  were  to  go  to  Gani,  it  was  his  intention  to  slip  us  off  pri- 
vately down  the  Kafu.  The  brothers  were  so  thoroughly  fright- 
ened, that  when  Kamrasi  opened  his  chronometer  before  them  to 
show  them  the  works  in  motion,  they  turned  their  heads  away. 
The  large  block-tin  box  I gave  Kamrasi,  as  part  of  his  hongo, 
was,  I heard,  called  mzungu,  or  the  white  man,  by  him. 

In  the  evening  the  beads  recently  brought  from  Gani  were  sent 
for  my  inspection,  with  an  intimation  that  Kamrasi  highly  ap- 
proved of  them,  and  would  like  me  to  give  him  a few  like  them. 
Some  of  Kamrasi’s  spies,  whom  he  had  sent  to  the  refractory  allies 
of  Rionga  his  brother,  returned  bringing  a spear  and  some  grass 
from  the  thatch  of  the  hut  of  a Chopi  chief.  The  removal  of  the 
grass  was  a piece  of  state  policy.  It  was  stolen  by  Kamrasi’s  or- 
ders, in  order  that  he  might  spread  a charm  on  the  Chopi  people, 
and  gain  such  an  influence  over  them  that  their  spears  could  not 
prevail  against  the  Wanyoro;  but  it  was  thought  we  might  pos- 
sess some  still  superior  magic  powder,  as  we  had  come  from  such 
a long  distance,  and  Kamrasi  would  prefer  to  have  ours.  These 
Chopi  people  were  leagued  with  the  brothers,  and  thus  kept  the 


Oct.] 


UNYOKO. 


483 


high  road  to  Gani,  though  the  other  half  of  Chopi  remained  loyal ; 
and  though  Kamrasi  continually  sent  armies  against  the  refract- 
ory half  which  aided  his  brothers,  they  never  retaliated  by  attack- 
ing this  place. 

We  found,  by  the  way,  that  certain  drumming  and  harmonious 
accompaniments  which  we  had  been  accustomed  to  hear  all  day 
and  night  were  to  continue  for  four  moons,  in  celebration  of  twins 
born  to  Kamrasi  since  we  came  here. 

3c?.  Kamrasi’s  political  department  was  active  again  to-day. 
Some  Gani  officials  arrived  to  inform  him  that  there  were  two 
white  men  in  the  vessel  spoken  of  as  at  Gani ; a second  vessel 
was  coming  in  there,  and  several  others  were  on  their  way.  A 
carnelian  was  shown  me  which  the  Gani  people  gave  to  Kamrasi 
many  years  ago.  Kamrasi  expressed  a wish  that  I would  ex- 
change magic  powders  with  him.  He  had  a very  large  variety, 
and  would  load  a horn  for  me  with  all  those  I desired  most.  He 
wanted  also  medicines  for  longevity  and  perpetual  strength. 
Those  I had  given  him  had,  he  said,  deprived  him  of  strength, 
and  he  felt  much  reduced  by  their  effects.  He  would  like  me  to 
go  with  him  and  attack  the  island  his  three  brothers,  Rionga,  Wa- 
hitu,  and  Pohuka,  are  in  possession  of.  When  I said  I never 
fought  with  black  men,  he  wished  to  know  if  I would  not  shoot 
them  if  they  attacked  me.  My  reply  was,  alluding  to  our  fight 
in  the  river,  “How  did  N’yamyonjo’s  men  fare?”  I found  that 
Kamrasi  had  thirty  brothers  and  as  many  sisters. 

4 th.  I gave  Kamrasi  a bottle  of  quinine,  which  we  call  “strong 
back,”  and  asked  him,  in  return,  for  a horn  containing  all  the 
powders  necessary  to  give  me  the  gift  of  tongues,  so  that  I should 
be  able  to  converse  with  any  black  men  whom  I might  meet  with. 
We  heard  that  Kamrasi  has  called  all  his  Gani  guests  to  play  be- 
fore him,  and  a double  shot  from  his  Blissett  rifle  announced  to 
our  ears  that  he,  in  turn,  was  amusing  them.  This  was  the  first 
time  the  gun  had  been  discharged  since  he  received  it,  and,  fear- 
ing to  fire  it  himself,  he  called  one  of  my  men  to  do  it  for  him. 

5th.  At  9 A.M.,  the  time  for  measuring  the  fall  of  rain  for  the 
last  twenty-four  hours,  we  found  the  rain-gauge  and  bottle  had 
been  removed,  so  we  sent  Kidgwiga  to  inform  the  king  we  wished 
his  magicians  to  come  at  once  and  institute  a search  for  it.  Kidg- 
wiga immediately  returned  with  the  necessary  adept,  an  old  man, 
nearly  blind,  dressed  in  strips  of  old  leather  fastened  to  the  waist, 
and  carrying  in  one  hand  a cow’s  horn  primed  with  magic  pow- 


484 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


der,  carefully  covered  on  the  mouth  with  leather,  from  which 
dangled  an  iron  bell.  The  old  creature  jingled  the  bell,  entered 
our  hut,  squatted  on  his  hams,  looked  first  at  one,  then  at  the 
other;  inquired  what  the  missing  things  were  like,  grunted,  moved 
his  skinny  arm  round  his  head,  as  if  desirous  of  catching  air  from 
all  four  sides  of  the  hut,  then  dashed  the  accumulated  air  on  the 
head  of  his  horn,  smelt  it  to  see  if  all  was  going  right,  jingled  the 
bell  again  close  to  his  ear,  and  grunted  his  satisfaction ; the  miss- 
ing articles  must  be  found. 

To  carry  out  the  incantation  more  effectually,  however,  all  my 
men  were  sent  for  to  sit  in  the  open  before  the  hut,  when  the  old 
doctor  rose,  shaking  the  horn  and  tinkling  the  bell  close  to  his 
ear.  He  then,  confronting  one  of  the  men,  dashed  the  horn  for- 
ward as  if  intending  to  strike  him  on  the  face,  then  smelt  the 
head,  then  dashed  at  another,  and  so  on,  till  he  became  satisfied 
that  my  men  were  not  the  thieves.  He  then  walked  into  Grant’s 
hut,  inspected  that,  and  finally  went  to  the  place  where  the  bottle 
had  been  kept.  There  he  walked  about  the  grass  with  his  arm 
up,  and  jingling  the  bell  to  his  ear,  first  on  one  side,  then  on  the 
other,  till  the  track  of  a hyena  gave  him  the  clew,  and  in  two  or 
three  more  steps  he  found  it.  A hyena  had  carried  it  into  the 
grass  and  dropped  it.  Bravo  for  the  infallible  horn ! and  well 
done  the  king  for  his  honesty  in  sending  it!  So  I gave  the  king 
the  bottle  and  gauge,  which  delighted  him  amazingly ; and  the 
old  doctor,  who  begged  for  pombe,  got  a goat  for  his  trouble.  My 
men  now,  recollecting  the  powder  robbery  at  Uganda,  said  King 
Mtesa  would  not  send  his  horn  when  I asked  for  it,  because  he 
was  the  culprit  himself. 

6th.  Ividgwiga  told  us  to-day  that  King  Kamrasi’s  sisters  are 
not  allowed  to  wed ; they  live  and  die  virgins  in  his  palace. 
Their  only  occupation  in  life  consisted  in  drinking  milk,  of  which 
each  one  consumes  the  produce  daily  of  from  ten  to  twenty  cows, 
and  hence  they  become  so  inordinately  fat  that  they  can  not  walk. 
Should  they  wish  to  see  a relative,  or  go  outside  the  hut  for  any 
purpose,  it  requires  eight  men  to  lift  any  of  them  on  a litter.  The 
brothers,  too,  are  not  allowed  to  go  out  of  his  reach.  This  con- 
finement of  the  palace  family  is  considered  a state  necessity,  as  a 
preventive  to  civil  wars,  in  the  same  way  as  the  destruction  of 
the  Uganda  princes,  after  a certain  season,  is  thought  necessary 
for  the  preservation  of  peace  there. 

1th.  In  the  morning  the  kamraviona  called,  on  the  king’s  be- 


Oct.] 


UNYORO. 


485 


half,  to  inquire  after  my  health,  and  also  to  make  some  important 
communications.  First  he  was  to  request  a supply  of  bullets, 
that  the  king  might  fire  a salute  when  Bombay  returned  from 
Gani ; next,  to  ask  for  stimulative  medicine,  now  that  he  had  con- 
sumed all  I gave  him,  and  gone  through  the  preliminary  course ; 
farther,  to  request  I would  spread  a charm  over  all  his  subjects, 
so  that  their  hearts  might  be  inclined  toward  him,  and  they  would 
come  without  calling  and  bow  down  at  his  feet;  finally,  he  wished 
me  to  exchange  my  blood  with  him,  that  we  might  be  brothers 
till  death.  I sent  the  bullets,  advised  him  to  wait  a day  or  two 
for  the  medicine,  and  said  there  was  only  one  charm  by  which 
he  could  gain  the  influence  he  required  over  his  subjects — this 
was,  knowledge'  and  the  power  of  the  pen.  Should  he  desire 
some  of  my  children  (meaning  missionaries)  to  come  here  and  in- 
struct his,  the  thing  would  be  done;  but  not  in  one  year,  nor  even 
ten,  for  itfiakes  many  years  to  educate  children. 

As  to  exchanging  my  blood  with  a black  man’s,  it  was  a thing 
quite  beyond  my  comprehension,  though  Bumanika,  I must  con- 
fess, had  asked  me  to  do  the  same  thing.  The  way  the  English 
make  lasting  friendships  is  done  either  by  the  expressions  of  their 
hearts,  or  by  the  exchange  of  some  trifles  as  keepsakes ; and  now, 
as  I had  given  Kamrasi  some  specimens  of  English  manufacture, 
he  might  give  me  a horn,  or  any  thing  else  he  chose,  which  I 
could  show  to  my  friends,  so  as  to  keep  him  in  recollection  all  my 
life. 

The  kamraviona,  before  leaving,  said,  for  our  information,  that 
a robbery  had  occurred  in  the  palace  last  night ; for  this  morn- 
ing, when  Kamrasi  went  to  inspect  his  mzungu  (the  block-tin 
box),  which  he  had  forgotten  to  lock,  he  found  all  his  beads  had 
been  stolen.  After  sniffing  round  among  the  various  wives,  he 
smelt  the  biggest  one  to  be  the  culprit,  and  turned  the  beads  out 
of  her  possession.  Deputies  came  in  the  evening  with  a pot  of 
pombe  and  small  screw  of  butter,  to  tell  me  some  Gani  people 
had  just  nrrived,  bringing  information  that  the  vessel  at  Gani  had 
left  to  go  down  the  river;  but  when  intelligence  reached  the  ves- 
sel of  the  approach  of  my  men,  they  turned  and  came  back  again. 
Bombay  was  well  feasted  on  the  road  by  Kamrasi’s  people,  re- 
ceiving eight  cows  from  one  and  two  cows  from  another. 

8th  and  9 th.  We  had  a summons  to  attend  at  the  Kafu  palace 
with  the  medicine-chest,  a few  select  persons  only  to  be  present. 
It  rained  so  much  on  the  8th  as  to  stop  the  visit,  but  we  went 


486 


TIIE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


next  day.  After  ar living  there,  and  going  through  the  usual  salu- 
tations, Kamrasi  asked  us  from  what  stock  of  people  we  came,  ex- 
plaining his  meaning  by  saying,  “As  we,  Rumanika,  Mtdsa,  and 
the  rest  of  us  (enumerating  the  kings),  are  wawitu  (or  princes), 
Uwitu  (or  the  country  of  princes)  being  to  the  east.”  This  inter- 
esting announcement  made  me  quite  forget  to  answer  his  question, 
and  induced  me  to  say,  “ Omwita,  indeed,  was  the  ancient  name 
for  Mombas,  if  you  came  from  that  place : I know  all  about  your 
race  for  two  thousand  years  or  more.  Omwita,  you  mean,  was 
the  last  country  you  resided  in  before  you  came  here,  but  origin- 
ally you  came  from  Abyssinia,  the  sultan  of  which,  our  great 
friend,  is  Sahela  Selassie.” 

He  pronounced  this  name  laughing,  and  said,  “Formerly  our 
stock  was  half  white  and  half  black,  with  one  side  of  our  heads 
covered  with  straight  hair,  and  the  other  side  frizzly : you  cer- 
tainly do  know  every  thing.”  The  subject  then  turned  upon 
medicine,  and,  after  inspecting  the  chest,  and  inquiring  into  all  its 
contents,  it  ended  by  his  begging  for  the  half  of  every  thing.  The 
musquito-curtains  were  again  asked  for,  and  refused  until  I should 
leave  this.  As  Kamrasi  was  anxious  I should  take  two  of  his 
children  to  England  to  be  instructed,  I agreed  to  do  so,  but  said  I 
thought  it  would  be  better  if  he  invited  missionaries  to  come  here 
and  educate  all  his  family.  His  cattle  were  much  troubled  with 
sickness,  dying  in  great  numbers — could  I cure  them?  As  he 
again  began  to  persecute  us  with  begging,  wanting  knives  and 
forks,  etc.,  I advised  his  using  ivory  as  money,  and  purchasing 
what  he  wanted  from  Gani.  This  brought  out  the  interesting 
fact,  the  truth  of  which  we  had  never  reached  before,  that  when 
Petherick’s  servant  brought  him  one  necklace  of  beads,  and  asked 
after  us,  he  gave  in  return  fourteen  ivories,  thirteen  women,  and 
seven  mbugu  cloths.  One  of  his  men  accompanied  the  visitors 
back  to  the  boats,  and  saw  Petherick,  who  took  the  ivory  and  re- 
jected the  women. 

10 ih.  At  2 P.M.  we  were  called  by  Kamrasi  to  visit  him  at  the 
Kafu  palace  again,  and  requested  to  bring  a lot  of  medicines  tied 
up  in  various  colored  cloths,  so  that  he  might  know  what  to  se- 
lect for  different  ailments.  We  repaired  there  as  before,  putting 
the  medicines  into  the  sextant-stand  box,  and  found  him  lying  at 
full  length  on  the  platform  of  his  throne,  writh  a glass-bead  neck- 
lace of  various  colors,  and  a charm  tied  on  his  left  arm.  Nobody 
was  allowed  to  be  present  at  our  interview.  The  medicines,  four 


Oct.] 


UNYORO. 


487 


varieties,  were  weighed  out  into  ten  doses  each,  and  their  uses 
and  effects  explained.  He  begged  for  four  bottles  to  put  them  in, 
till  he  was  laughed  out  of  it  by  our  saying  he  required  forty  bot- 
tles ; for  if  the  powders  were  mixed,  how  could  he  separate  them 
again  ? And  to  keep  his  mind  from  the  begging  tack,  which  he 
was  getting  alarmingly  near,  I said,  “Now  I have  given  you  these 
things  because  you  would  insist  on  having  them.  I must  also 
tell  you  they  are  dangerous  in  your  hands,  in  consequence  of  your 
being  ignorant  of  their  properties.  If  you  take  my  advice,  you 
won’t  meddle  with  them  until  the  two  children  you  wish  educated 
have  learned  the  use  of  them  in  England ; and  if  I have  to  take 
boys  from  this,  I hope  they  will  be  of  your  family.”  He  said, 
“You  speak  like  a father  to  us,  and  we  very  much  approve. 
Here  is  a pot  of  pombe ; I did  not  give  you  one  yesterday.” 

1 1th.  To-day,  the  king  having  graciously  granted  permission, 
we  went  out  shooting,  but  saw  only  a few  buffalo  tracks. 

12th.  The  kamraviona  was  sent  to  inquire  after  our  health,  and 
to  ascertain  from  me  all  I knew  respecting  the  origin  of  Kamrasi’s 
tribe,  the  distribution  of  countries,  and  the  seat  of  the  government. 
I sent  the  king  a diagram,  painted  in  various  colors,  with  full  ex- 
planations of  every  thing,  and  asked  permission  to  send  two  more 
of  my  men  in  search  of  Bombay,  who  had  now  been  absent  twenty 
days.  The  reply  was,  that  if  Bombay  did  not  return  within  four 
days,  Kamrasi  would  send  other  men  after  him  on  the  fifth  day ; 
and,  in  the  mean  time,  he  sent  one  pot  of  pombe  as  a token  of  his 
kind  regard. 

13//n  The  kamraviona  was  sent  to  inquire  after  our  health,  to 
ask  for  medicine  for  himself,  and  to  inquire  more  into  the  origin 
of  his  race.  I,  on  the  other  hand,  wishing  to  make  myself  as  dis- 
agreeable as  possible,  in  order  that  Kamrasi  might  get  tired  of  us, 
sent  Frij  to  ask  for  fresh  butter,  eggs,  tobacco,  coffee,  and  fowls 
every  day,  saying  I will  pay  their  price  when  I reach  Gani,  for 
we  were  suffering  from  want  of  proper  food.  Kamrasi  was  sur- 
prised at  this  clamor  for  food,  and  inquired  what  we  ate  at  home, 
that  we  were  so  different  from  every  body  else. 

We  heard  to-day  a strange  story,  involving  the  tragic  fate  of 
Budja.  On  coming  here,  he  had  been  bewitched  by  Kamrasi’s 
frontier  officer,  who  put  the  charm  into  a pot  of  pombe.  From 
the  moment  Budja  drank  it  he  was  seized  with  sickness,  and  re- 
mained so  until  he  reached  the  first  station  in  Uganda,  when  he 
died.  The  facts  of  the  bewitchment  had  been  found  out  by  means 


488 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


of  the  perpetrator’s  wives,  who,  from  the  moment  the  pombe  was 
drunk,  took  to  precipitate  flight,  well  knowing  what  effects  would 
follow,  and  dreading  the  chastisement  Mt6sa  would  bring  upon 
their  household.  We  heard,  too,  that  the  deserters  had  returned 
to  the  place  they  deserted  from,  with  thirty  Waganda,  and  a pres- 
ent of  some  cows  for  me. 

14$.  Kamrasi  sent  me  four  parcels  of  coffee,  very  neatly  in- 
closed in  rush  pith. 

15$.  Getting  more  impatient,  and  desirous  to  move  on  at  any 
sacrifice,  I proposed  giving  up  all  claims  to  my  muskets,  as  well 
as  the  present  of  cows  from  Mtesa,  if  Kamrasi  would  give  us 
boats  to  Gani  at  once;  but  the  reply  was  simply,  Why  be  in  such 
a hurry  ? 

16$.  The  kamraviona  was  sent  to  us  with  a load  of  coffee, 
which  Kamrasi  had  purchased  with  cowries,  and  to  inquire  how 
we  had  slept.  Very  badly,  was  the  reply,  because  we  knew  Bom- 
bay would  have  been  back  long  ago  if  Kamrasi  was  not  conceal- 
ing him  somewhere,  and  we  did  not  know  what  he  was  doing 
with  deserters  and  Waganda.  Kamrasi  then  wanted  us  to  paint 
his  mbugu.  cloths  in  different  patterns  and  colors;  but  we  sent 
him  instead  six  packages  of  red-ink  powder,  and  got  abused  for 
sauciness.  He  then  wanted  black  ink,  else  how  could  he  put  on 
the  red  with  taste ; but  we  had  none  to  give  him.  Next,  he  asked 
leave  for  my  men  to  shoot  cows  before  his  Kidi  visitors,  which 
they  did  to  his  satisfaction,  instructing  him  at  the  same  time  to 
fire  powder  with  his  own  rifle;  when,  triumphant  with  his  suc- 
cess, he  protested  he  would  never  use  any  thing  but  guns  again, 
and  threw  away  his  spear  as  useless.  Bombay,  we  learned,  had 
reached  Gani,  and  ought  to  return  in  eight  days. 

17$  and  18$.  A large  party  of  Chopi  people  arrived,  by  Kam- 
rasi’s  orders,  to  tell  the  reason  which  induced  them  to  apply  for 
guns  to  the  white  men  at  Gani,  as  it  appeared  evident  they  must 
have  wished  to  fight  their  king.  The  Kidi  visitors  got  broken 
heads  for  helping  themselves  from  the  Wanyoro’s  fields,  and  when 
they  cried  out  against  such  treatment,  were  told  they  should  rob 
the  king,  if  they  wished  to  rob  at  all. 

19 th.  Nothing  was  done  because  Kamrasi  was  dismissing  his 
Kidi  guests,  200,  with  presents  of  cows  and  women. 

20$.  Having  asked  Kamrasi  to  return  my  pictures,  he  sent  the 
book  of  birds,  but  not  of  animals ; and  said  he  could  not  see  us 
until  a new  hut  was  built,  because  the  old  one  was  flooded  by  the 


Oct.] 


UN  Y OHO. 


489 


Kafu,  which  had  been  rising  several  days.  We  must  not,  he  said, 
talk  about  Bombay  any  more,  because  every  body  said  he  was  de- 
tained by  the  N’yanswenge  (Petherick’s  party),  and  would  return 
here  with  the  new  moon.  I would  not  accept  the  lie,  saying,  How 
can  my  “children”  at  G-ani  detain  my  messengers,  when  they  have 
received  strict  orders  from  me  by  letter  to  send  an- answer  quick- 
ly ? It  was  all  Kamrasi’s  doing,  for  he  had  either  hidden  Bom- 
bay, or  ordered  his  officers  to  take  him  slowly,  as  he  did  us,  stop- 
ping four  days  at  each  stage. 

Frij  again  told  me  he  was  present  when  Said  Said,  the  Sultan 
of  Zanzibar,  sent  an  army  to  assist  the  Wagunya  at  Amu,  on  the 
coast,  against  the  incursions  of  the  Masai.  These  Amu  people 
have  the  same  Walxuma  features  as  Kamrasi,  whom  they  also  re- 
semble both  in  general  physical  appearance,  and  in  many  of  them 
having  circular  marks,  as  if  made  by  cautery,  on  the  forehead  and 
temples.  These  marks  I took  not  to  be  tattooing  or  decorative, 
but  as  a cure  for  disease,  cautery  being  a favorite  remedy  with 
both  races. 

The  battle  lasted  only  two  days,  though  the  Masai  brought  a 
thousand  spears  against  the  Arabs’  cannon.  But  this  was  not  the 
only  battle  Said  Said  had  to  fight  on  those  grounds ; for  some 
years  previously  he  had  to  subdue  the  Waziwa,  who  live  on  very 
marshy  land,  into  respect  for  his  sovereignty,  when  the  battle  last- 
ed years,  in  consequence  of  the  bad  nature  of  the  ground,  and  the 
trick  the  Waziwa  had  of  staking  the  ground  with  spikes.  The 
Wasuahili,  or  coast-people,  by  his  description,  are  the  bastards  or 
mixed  breeds  who  live  on  the  east  coast  of  Africa,  extending  from 
the  Somali  country  to  Zanzibar.  Their  language  is  Kisuahili ; 
but  there  is  no  land  Usuahili,  though  people  talk  of  going  to  the 
Suahili  in  the  same  vague  sense  as  they  do  of  going  to  the  Ma- 
shenzi,  or  among  the  savages.  The  common  story  among  the 
Wasuahili  at  Zanzibar  in  regard  to  the  government  of  that  island 
was,  that  the  Wakhadim,  or  aborigines  of  Zanzibar,  did  not  like 
the  oppressions  of  the  Portuguese,  and  therefore  allied  themselves 
to  the  Arabs  of  Muscat — even  compromising  their  natural  birth- 
right of  freedom  in  government,  provided  the  Arabs,  by  their  su- 
perior power,  would  secure  to  them  perpetual  equity,  peace,  and 
justice.  The  senior  chief,  Sheikh  Muhadim,  was  the  mediator  on 
their  side,  and  without  his  sanction  no  radical  changes  compro- 
mising the  welfare  of  the  land  could  take  place ; the  system  of 
arbitration  being  that  the  governing  Arab  on  the  one  side,  and 


490 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[18G2. 


the  deputy  of  the  Wakhadim  on  the  other,  should  hold  conference 
with  a screen  placed  between  them,  to  obviate  all  attempts  at  fa- 
vor, corruption,  or  bribery. 

The  former  report  of  the  approach  of  all  of  my  men,  with  as 
many  Waganda  and  cows  for  me,  turned  out  partly  false,  inas- 
much as  only  one  of  my  men  was  with  102  Waganda,  while  the 
whole  of  the  deserters  were  left  behind  in  Uganda  with  cows ; 
and  Kamrasi  hearing  this,  ordered  all  to  go  back  again  until  the 
whole  of  my  men  should  arrive. 

21st.  I was  told  how  a Myoro  woman,  who  bore  twins  that  died, 
now  keeps  two  small  pots  in  her  house,  as  effigies  of  the  children, 
into  which  she  milks  herself  every  evening,  and  will  continue  to 
do  so  five  months,  fulfilling  the  time  appointed  by  nature  for  suck- 
ling children,  lest  the  spirits  of  the  dead  should  persecute  her. 
The  twins  were  not  buried  as  ordinary  people  are  buried,  under 
ground,  but  placed  in  an  earthenware  pot,  such  as  the  Wanyoro 
use  for  holding  pombe.  They  were  taken  to  the  jungle  and  placed 
by  a tree,  with  the  pot  turned  mouth  downward.  Manila,  one  of 
my  men,  who  is  a twin,  said,  in  Nguru,  one  of  the  sister  provinces 
to  Unyanyembe,  twins  are  ordered  to  be  killed  and  thrown  into 
water  the  moment  they  are  born,  lest  droughts  and  famines  or 
floods  should  oppress  the  land.  Should  any  one  attempt  to  con- 
ceal twins,  the  whole  family  would  be  murdered  by  the  chief; 
but,  though  a great  traveler,  this  is  the  only  instance  of  such  bru- 
tality Manila  had  ever  witnessed  in  any  country. 

In  the  province  of  Unyanyembe,  if  a twin  or  twins  die,  they  are 
thrown  into  water  for  the  same  reason  as  in  Nguru ; but  as  their 
numbers  increase  the  size  of  the  family,  their  birth  is  hailed  with 
delight.  Still  there  is  a source  of  fear  there  in  connection  with 
twins,  as  I have  seen  myself ; for  when  one  dies,  the  mother  ties 
a little  gourd  to  her  neck  as  a proxy,  and  puts  into  it  a trifle  of 
every  thing  which  she  gives  the  living  child,  lest  the  jealousy  of 
the  dead  spirit  should  torment  her.  Farther,  on  the  death  of  the 
child,  she  smears  herself  with  butter  and  ashes,  and  runs  frantic- 
ally about,  tearing  her  hair  and  bewailing  piteously ; while  the 
men  of  the  place  use  toward  her  the  foulest  language,  apparently 
as  if  in  abuse  of  her  person,  but  in  reality  to  frighten  away  the 
demons  who  have  robbed  her  nest. 

22 d.  I sent  Frij  to  Kamrasi  to  find  out  what  he  was  doing  with 
the  Waganda  and  my  deserters,  as  I wished  to  speak  with  their 
two  head  representatives.  I also  wanted  some  men  to  seek  for 


Ocx.] 


UNYORO. 


491 


/ 

and  fetch  Bombay,  as  I said  I believed  him  to  be  tied  by  the  leg 
behind  one  of  the  visible  hills  in  Kidi.  The  reply  was,  102  Wa- 
ganda,  with  one  of  my  men  only,  had  been  stationed  at  the  vil- 
lage my  men  deserted  from  since  the  date  (13th)  we  heard  of  them 
last.  They  had  no  cows  for  me,  but  each  of  the  Waganda  bore 
a log  of  firewood,  which  Mtdsa  had  ordered  them  to  carry  until 
they  either  returned  with  me  or  brought  back  a box  of  gun- 
powder, in  default  of  which  they  were  to  be  all  burnt  in  a heap 
with  the  logs  they  carried.  Kamrasi,  still  acting  on  his  passive 
policy,  would  not  admit  them  here,  but  wished  them  to  return 
with  a message,  to  the  effect  that  Mtesa  had  no  right  to  hold  me 
as  his  guest  now  I had  once  gone  into  another’s  hands.  We  were 
all  three  kings,  to  do  with  our  subjects  as  we  liked,  and  for  this 
reason  the  deserters  ought  to  be  sent  on  here ; but  if  I wished  to 
speak  to  the  Waganda,  he  would  call  their  officer.  There  was  no 
fear,  he  said,  about  Bombay ; he  was  on  his  way ; but  the  men 
who  were  escorting  him  were  spinning  out  the  time,  stopping  at 
every  place,  and  feasting  every  day.  To-morrow,  he  added,  some 
more  Gani  people  would  arrive  here,  when  we  should  know  more 
about  it.  I still  advised  Kamrasi  to  give  the  road  to  Mtesa  pro- 
vided he  gave  up  plundering  the  Wanyoro  of  women  and  cattle; 
but,  if  my  counsel  was  listened  to,  I could  get  no  acknowledg- 
ment that  it  was  so. 

23 d and  24 tli.  I sent  to  inquire  what  news  there  was  of  Bom- 
bay’s coming,  and  what  measures  Kamrasi  had  taken  to  call  the 
Waganda’s  chief  officer  and  my  deserters  here,  as  also  to  beg  he 
would  send  us  specimens  of  all  the  various  tribes  that  visit  him, 
in  order  that  we  might  draw  them.  He  sent  four  loads  of  dried 
fish,  with  a request  for  my  book  of  birds  again,  as  it  contains  a 
portrait  of  King  Mtesa,  and  proposed  seeing  us  at  the  newly-con- 
structed Kafu  palace  to-morrow,  when  all  requests  would  be  at- 
tended to.  In  the  mean  while,  we  were  told  that  Bombay  had 
been  seen  on  his  way  returning  from  Gani;  and  the  Waganda 
had  all  run  away  frightened,  because  they  were  told  the  Kidi  and 
Chopi  visitors,  who  had  been  calling  on  Kamrasi  lately,  were 
merely  the  nucleus  of  an  army  forming  to  drive  them  away  and 
to  subdue  Uganda.  Mtesa  was  undergoing  the  coronation  for- 
malities, and  for  this  reason  had  sent  the  deserters  to  Kari’s  hill, 
giving  them  cows  and  a garden  to  live  on,  as  no  visitors  can  re- 
main near  the  court  while  the  solemnities  of  the  coronation  were 
going  on.  The  thirty-odd  brothers  will  be  burnt  to  death,  sav- 


492 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


ing  two  or  three,  of  which  one  will  be  sent  into  this  country — as 
was  the  case  with  one  of  the  late  king  Sunna’s  brothers,  who  is 
still  in  Unyoro — and  the  others  will  remain  in  the  court  with 
Mtesa  as  playfellows  until  the  king  dies,  when,  like  Sunna’s  two 
brothers  still  living  in  Uganda,  one  at  N’yama  Goma  and  one  at 
Ngambezi,  they  will  be  pensioned  off.  After  the  coronation  is 
concluded,  it  is  expected  Mtesa  will  go  into  Kittara,  on  the  west 
of  Uganda,  to  fight  first,  and  then,  turning  east,  will  fight  with 
the  Wasoga;  but  we  think,  if  he  fights  any  where,  it  will  be  with 
Kamrasi. 

25 th  and  2 6th.  I sent  Frij  to  the  palace  to  inquire  after  Bom- 
bay, and  got  the  usual  reply : “ Vvffiy  is  Bana  in  such  a hurry  ? 
He  is  always  for  doing  things  quickly.  Tell  my  ‘brother’  to  keep 
his  mind  at  rest;  Bombay  is  now  on  the  boundary  of  Gani  com- 
ing here,  and  will  in  due  course  arrive.”  Both  Rumanika’s  men 
and  those  belonging  to  Dr.  K’yengo  asked  Kamrasi’s  leave  to  re- 
turn to  their  homes,  but  were  refused,  because  the  road  was  un- 
safe. “ Had  they  not,”  it  was  said,  “ heard  of  Budja’s  telling  Mtesa 
that  K’yengo’s  children  prevented  the  white  men  from  returning 
to  Uganda?  and  since  then  Mtesa  had  killed  his  frontier  officer 
for  being  chicken-hearted,  afraid  to  carry  out  his  orders,  and  had 
appointed  another  in  his  stead,  giving  him  strict  orders  to  make 
prisoners  of  all  foreigners  who  might  pass  that  way  and,  farther, 
when  some  twenty  Wanyoro  were  going  to  Karagiie,  they  were 
hunted  down  by  Mtesa’s  orders,  and  three  of  their  number  killed; 
for  he  was  determined  to  cut  off  all  intercourse  between  this  coun- 
try and  Karague.  They  must  therefore  wait  till  the  road  is  safe.” 

Hearing  this,  Dr.  K’yengo’s  men,  who  happened  to  be  as  well 
off  here  as  any  where,  accepted  the  advice ; but  Rumanika’s  men 
said,  “We  are  starving;  we  have  been  here  too  long  already  do- 
ing nothing,  and  must  go,  let  what  will  happen  to  us.”  Kamrasi 
said,  “What  will  be  the  use  of  your  going  empty-handed?  I can 
not  send  cows  and  slaves  to  Rumanika  when  the  road  is  so  unsafe ; 
you  must  wait  a bit.”  But  they  still  urged  as  before,  and  so  forced 
the  king  reluctantly  to  acquiesce,  but  only  on  the  condition  that 
two  of  their  head  men  should  remain  behind  until  some  more  of 
Rumanika’s  men  came  to  fetch  them  away ; in  fact,  as  we  had 
been  accredited  to  him  by  Rumanika,  he  wanted  to  keep  some  of 
that  king’s  people  as  a security  until  we  were  out  of  his  hands. 

27 th.  I sent  Frij  to  the  palace  to  ask  once  more  for  leave  to 
visit  the  Luta  Uzige  river-lake  to  the  westward,  and  to  request 


KAMKASI’S 


Oct.] 


TJRYORO. 


495 


Kamrasi  would  send  men  to  fetch  my  property  from  Karague. 
He  sent  four  loads  of  small  fish  and  one  pot  of  pombe,  to  say  he 
would  see  me  on  the  morrow,  when  every  arrangement  would  fee 
made.  Late  at  night  orders  came  announcing  that  I might  write 
my  dispatches,  as  sixty  men  were  ready  to  start  for  Karague. 

28th.  I sent  one  of  my  men  with  dispatches  to  Kamrasi,  who 
detained  him  half  the  day,  and  then  ordered  him  to  call  to-mor- 
row. This  being  the  fifteenth  or  twentieth  time  Kamrasi  had  dis- 
appointed me,  after  promising  an  interview,  that  we  might  have 
a proper  understanding  about  every  thing,  and  when  no  beg- 
ging on  his  part  was  to  interrupt  our  conversation,  I sent  him 
a threatening  message,  to  see  what  effect  that  would  have.  The 
purport  of  it  was,  that  I was  afraid  to  send  men  to  Karague,  now 
I had  seen  his  disposition  to  make  prisoners  of  all  who  visit  him. 
Here  had  I been  kept  six  weeks  waiting  for  Bombay’s  return  from 
Glani,  where  I only  permitted  him  to  go  because  I was  told  the 
journey  to  and  fro  would  only  occupy  from  eight  to  ten  days  at 
most.  Then  Bumanika’s  men,  who  came  here  with  Baraka,  though 
daily  crying  to  get  away,  were  still  imprisoned  here,  without  any 
hope  before  them.  If. I sent  Msalima,  he  would  be  kept  ten  years 
on  the  road.  If  I went  to  the  lake  Luta  Hzige,  God  only  knows 
when  he  would  let  me  come  back;  and  now,  for  once  and  for  all, 
I wished  to  sacrifice  all  my  property,  and  leave  the  countries  of 
black  kings ; for  what  Kamrasi  had  done,  Mtesa  had  done  like- 
wise, detaining  the  two  men  I detached  on  a friendly  mission, 
which  made  me  fear  to  send  any  more  and  inquire  after  my  guns, 
lest  he  should  seize  them  likewise.  I would  stay  no  longer 
among  such  people. 

Kamrasi,  in  answer,  begged  I would  not  be  afraid ; there  was 
no  occasion  for  alarm ; Bombay  would  be  here  shortly.  I had 
promised  to  wait  patiently  for  his  return,  and  as  soon  as  he  did 
return  I would  be  sent  off  without  one  day’s  delay,  for  I was  not 
his  slave,  that  he  should  use  violence  upon  me.  Bumanika’s 
men,  too,  would  be  allowed  to  go,  only  that  the  road  was  unsafe, 
and  he  feared  Bumanika  would  abuse  him  if  any  harm  befell 
them. 

29th.  To-day  I met  Kamrasi  at  his  new  reception-palace  on  this 
side  the  Kafu — taking  a Bible  to  explain  all  I fancied  I knew 
about  the  origin- and  present  condition  of  the  Wahuma  branch  of 
the  Ethiopians,  beginning  with  Adam,  to  show  how  it  was  the 
king  had  heard  by  tradition  that  at  one  time  the  people  of  his 


496 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1802. 


race  were  half  white  and  half  black.  Then,  proceeding  with  the 
Flood,  I pointed  out  that  the  Europeans  remained  white,  retain- 
ing Japhet’s  blood  ; while  the  Arabs  are  tawny,  after  Shem ; and 
the  Africans  black,  after  Ham.  And,  finally,  to  show  the  great- 
ness of  the  tribe,  I read  the  14th  chapter  of  2d  Chronicles,  in 
which  it  is  written  how  Zerah,  the  Ethiopian,  with  a host  of  a 
thousand  thousand,  met  the  Jew  Asa  with  a large  army,  in  the 
valley  of  Zephathah,  near  Mareshah ; adding  to  it  that  again,  at  a 
much  later  date,  we  find  the  Ethiopians  battling  with  the  Arabs 
in  the  Somali  country,  and  with  the  Arabs  and  Portuguese  at  Om- 
wita  (Mombas) — in  all  of  which  places  they  have  taken  possession 
of  certain  tracts  of  land,  and  left  their  sons  to  people  it. 

To  explain  the  way  in  which  the  type  or  physical  features  of 
people  undergo  great  changes  by  interbreeding,  Mtesa  was  in- 
stanced as  having  lost  nearly  every  feature  of  his  Minima  blood 
by  the  kings  of  Uganda  having  been  produced,  probably  for  sev- 
eral generations  running,  of  Wagandi  mothers.  This  amused 
Kamrasi  greatly,  and  induced  me  to  inquire  how  his  purity  of 
blood  was  maintained:  “Was  the  King  of  Unyoro  chosen,  as  in 
Uganda,  haphazard  by  the  chief  men,  or  did  the  eldest  son  sit  by 
succession  on  the  throne  ?”  The  reply  was,  “The  brothers  fought 
for  it,  and  the  best  man  gained  the  crown.” 

Kamrasi  then  began  counting  the  leaves  of  the  Bible,  an  amuse- 
ment that  every  negro  that  gets  hold  of  a book  indulges  in ; and, 
concluding  in  his  mind  that  each  page  or  leaf  represented  one 
year  of  time  since  the  beginning  of  creation,  continued  his  labor 
till  one  quarter  of  the  way  through  the  book,  and  then  only  shut 
it  up  on  being  told,  if  he  desired  to  ascertain  the  number  more 
closely,  he  had  better  count  the  words. 

I begged  for  my  picture-books,  which  were  only  lent  him  at 
his  request  for  a few  days,  and  then  began  a badgering  verbal 
conflict : he  would  not  return  them  until  I drew  others  like  them; 
he  would  not  allow  me  to  go  to  the  Little  Luta  Nzige,  west  of 
this,  until  Bombay  returned,  when  he  would  send  me  with  an 
army  of  spears  to  lead  the  way,  and  my  men  with  their  guns  be- 
hind to  protect  the  rear.  This  was  for  the  purpose  of  making  us 
his  tools  in  his  conflict  with  his  brothers.  I complained  that  he 
had,  without  consulting  me,  ordered  away  the  men  who  had  been 
sent,  either  to  fetch  me  back  to  Uganda,  or  else  get  powder  from 
me,  although  they  had  orders  to  carry  out  their  king’s  desire,  un- 
der the  threat  of  being  burnt  with  the  fire-logs  they  carried ; and 


Oct.] 


UNYOKO. 


497 


all  this  Kamrasi  had  professed  to  do  merely  out  of  respect  for  my 
dignity,  as  I was  no  slave,  that  Mtesa  should  order  me  about.  I 
argued,  founding  on  each  particular  in  succession,  that  his  con- 
duct throughout  was  most  unjustifiable,  and  any  thing  but  friend- 
ly. He  then  produced  an  officer,  who  was  to  escort  my  man  Msa- 
lima  to  Karague,  “giving  him  orders  to  collect  the  sixty  men  re- 
quired on  the  way ; five  of  Rumanika’s  men  could  go  with  him, 
but  five  must  stop  until  other  Karague  men  came  to  say  the  road 
was  safe,  when  he  would  send  by  them  the  present  he  had  pre- 
pared for  Rumanika. 

Then,  turning  to  us,  he  said,  “Why  have  you  not  brought  the 
medicine-chest  and  the  saw  ? We  wish  to  see  every  thing  you 
have  got,  though  we  do  not  wish  to  rob  you.”  When  these  things 
came  for  inspection,  he  coveted  the  saw,  and  discovered  there 
were  more  varieties  of  medicine  in  the  chest  than  had  been  given 
him.  This  he  was  told  was  not  the  case,  because  the  papers  given 
him  contained  mixed  medicines,  a little  being  taken  from  every 
bottle.  “But  there  are  no  pills;  why  won’t  you  give  us  pills? 
We  have  men,  women,  and  children  who  require  pills  as  well  as 
you  do.”  We  were  much  annoyed  by  this  dogged  begging;  and 
as  he  said,  “Well,  if  you  won’t  give  me  any  thing,  I will  go,”  we 
at  once  rose,  hat  in  hand ; when,  regretting  the  hastiness  of  his 
speech,  he  begged  us  to  be  seated  again,  and  renewed  his  demands. 
We  told  him  the  road  to  Grani  was  the  only  condition  on  which 
we  would  part  with  any  more  medicine ; we  had  asked  leave  to 
go  a hundred  times,  and  that  was  all  we  now  desired.  At  last  he 
rose,  and  walked  off  in  a huff ; but,  repenting  before  he  reached 
home,  he  sent  us  a pot  of  pombe,  when,  in  return,  I finished  the 
farce  by  sending  him  a box  of  pills. 

30 tii.  I gave  Msalima  a letter  in  the  Kisuahili  or  coast  language 
to  convey  to  Rumanika,  ordering  all  my  property  to  be  sent  here, 
his  account  of  the  things  as  they  left  him  to  be  given  to  Msalima 
to  convey  to  the  coast,  while  I sent  him  one  pound  of  gunpowder 
as  a sort  of  agency  fee.  Msalima  also  took  a map  of  all  the  coun- 
tries we  had  passed,  with  lunar  observations,  and  a letter  to  Rig- 
by, by  which  he,  Baraka,  and  Uledi  would  be  able  to  draw  their 
pay  on  arrival. 

31s£.  I sent  Frij  with  a letter  to  the  king,  containing  an  ac- 
knowledgment that,  on  the  arrival  of  the  rear  property  from  Ka- 
rague, he  would  be  entitled  to  the  half  of  every  thing,  reserving 
the  other  half  for  any  other  person  I might  in  future  send  to  take 

I i 


498 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


them  from  him.  He  accepted  the  letter,  and  put  it  into  his  mzun- 
gu — the  tin  box  I had  given  him.  He  said  he  would  take  every 
care  of  the  kit  from  the  time  it  arrived,  and  would  not  touch  his 
share  of  it  until  my  deputy  arrived.  An  inhabitant  of  Chopi  re- 
ported that  he  heard  Bombay’s  gun  fire  the  evening  before  he  left 
home,  and  was  rewarded  with  the  present  of  a cow. 

ls£.  I purchased  a small  kitten,  Felis  served , from  an  Hnyoro 
man,  who  requested  me  to  give  it  back  to  him  to  eat  if  it  was 
likely  to  die,  for  it  is  considered  very  good  food  in  Unyoro. 

Bombay  at  last  arrived  with  Mabruki  in  high  glee,  dressed  in 
cotton  jumpers  and  drawers,  presents  given  them  by  Petherick’s 
outpost.  Petherick  himself  was  not  there.  The  journey  to  and 
fro  was  performed  in  fourteen  days’  actual  traveling,  the  rest  of 
the  time  being  frittered  away  by  the  guides.  The  jemadar  of  the 
guard  said  he  commanded  two  hundred  Turks,  and  had  orders  to 
wait  for  me,  without  any  limit  as  to  time,  until  I should  arrive, 
when  Petherick’s  name  would  be  pointed  out  to  me  cut  on  a tree, 
but  as  no  one  in  camp  could  read  my  letter,  they  were  doubtful 
whether  we  were  the  party  they  were  looking  out  for. 

They  were  all  armed  with  elephant-guns,  and  had  killed  sixteen 
elephants.  Petherick  had  gone  down  the  river  eight  days’ jour- 
ney, but  was  expected  to  return  shortly.  Kamrasi  would  not  see 
Bombay  immediately  on  his  return,  but  sent  him  some  pornbe, 
and  desired  an  interview  the  following  day. 

2d.  I sent  Bombay  with  a farewell  present  to  Kamrasi,  consist- 
ing of  one  tent,  one  musquito-curtain,  one  roll  of  bindera  or  red 
cotton  cloth,  one  digester-pot,  one  saw,  six  copper  wires,  one  box 
of  beads,  containing  six  varieties  of  the  best  sort,  and  a request  to 
leave  his  country.  Much  pleased  with  the  things,  Kamrasi  or- 
dered the  tent  to  be  pitched  before  all  his  court,  pointed  out  to 
them  what  clever  people  the  white  people  are,  making  iron  pots 
instead  of  earthen  ones.  Covetous  and  never  satisfied,  however, 
instead  of  returning  thanks,  he  said  he  was  sure  I must  have 
more  beads  than  those  I sent  him ; and  instead  of  granting  the 
leave  asked  for,  said  he  would  think  about  it,  and  send  the  kam- 
raviona  in  the  evening  with  his  answer.  This,  when  it  came,  was 
any  thing  but  satisfactory ; for  we  were  required  to  stop  here  un- 
til the  king  should  have  prepared  the  people  on  the  road  for  our 
coming,  so  that  they  might  not  be  surprised,  or  try  to  molest  us 
on  the  way.  Kamrasi,  however,  returned  the  books  of  birds  and 
animals,  requesting  a picture  of  the  King  of  Uganda  to  be  drawn 
for  him,  and  gave  us  one  pot  of  pombe. 


Nov.] 


UNYOEO. 


499 


3 d.  I sent  the  picture  required,  and  an  angry  message  to  Kam- 
rasi  for  breaking  his  word,  as  he  promised  us  we  should  go  with- 
out a day’s  delay ; and  go  we  must,  for  I could  neither  eat  nor 
sleep  from  thinking  of  my  home.  His  only  reply  to  this  was. 
Bana  is  always  in  a preposterous  hurry.  He  answered  that,  for 
our  gratification,  he  had  directed  a dwarf  called  Kimenya  to  be 


Kimenya  the  Dwarf. 


sent  to  us,  and  the  kamraviona  should  follow  after.  Kimenya,  a 
little  old  man,  less  than  a yard  high,  called  on  us  with  a walking- 
stick  higher  than  himself,  made  his  salaam,  and  sat  down  very 
composedly.  He  then  rose  and  danced,  singing  without  invita- 
tion, and  following  it  up  with  queer  antics.  Lastly,  he  performed 
the  tambura,  or  charging-march,  in  imitation  of  wakungu,  repeat- 
ing the  same  words  they  use,  and  ending  by  a demand  for  simbi, 
or  cowrie-shells,  modestly  saying,  “ I am  a beggar,  and  want  sim- 
bi ; if  you  have  not  500  to  spare,  you  must,  at  any  rate,  give  me 
400.” 

He  then  narrated  his  fortune  in  life.  Born  in  Chopi,  he  was 
sent  for  by  Kamrasi,  who  first  gave  him  two  women,  who  died ; 
then  another,  who  ran  away  ; and,  finally,  a distorted  dwarf  like 
himself,  whom  he  rejected,  because  he  thought  the  propagation 
of  his  pigmy  breed  would  not  be  advantageous  to  society.  Bom- 
bay then  marched  him  back  to  the  palace,  with  500  simbi  strung 
in  necklaces  round  his  neck.  When  these  two  had  gone,  the 


500 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


kamraviona  arrived  with,  two  spears,  one  load  of  flour,  and  a pot 
of  pombe,  which  he  requested  me  to  accept,  adding  that  the  spears 
were  given  as  it  was  observed  I had  accepted  some  from  the  King 
of  Uganda;  a shield  was  still  in  reserve  for  me,  and  spears  would 
be  sent  for  Grant.  Then,  with  regard  to  my  going,  Kamrasi  must 
beg  us  to  have  patience  until  he  had  sent  messengers  into  Kidi, 
requesting  the  natives  there  not  to  molest  me  on  the  way,  for  they 
had  threatened  they  would  do  so,  and,  if  they  persisted,  he  would 
send  us  with  a force  by  another  route  via  Ugungu — another  at- 
tempt to  draw  us  off  to  fight  against  his  brothers. 

I stormed  at  this  announcement  as  a breach  of  faith  ; said  I had 
given  the  king  my  only  tent,  my  only  digester,  my  only  saw,  my 
only  wire,  my  only  musquito-curtains,  and  my  last  of  every  thing, 
because  he  had  assured  me  I should  have  to  pay  no  more  chiefs, 
and  he  would  give  me  the  road  at  once.  If  he  did  not  intend 
now  to  fulfill  his  promise,  I begged  he  would  take  back  his  spears, 
for  I would  only  accept  them  as  a farewell  present.  The  kam- 
raviona finding  me  rather  warm,  with  the  usual  pertinacious  du- 
plicity of  a negro,  then  said,  “Well,  let  that  subject  drop,  and  con- 
sider the  present  Kamrasi  promised  you  when  you  gave  him  the 
uganga”  (meaning  the  watch);  “Kamrasi’s  horn  is  not  ready 
yet.”  This  second  prevarication  completely  set  my  dander  up. 
If  I did  not  believe  in  his  dangers  of  the  way  before,  it  quite  set- 
tled my  opinion  of  the  worth  of  his  words  now.  I therefore  ten- 
dered him  what  might  be  called  the  ultimatum  to  this  effect. 
There  was  no  sincerity  in  such  haggling;  I would  not  submit  to 
being  told  lies  by  kings  or  any  body  else.  He  must  take  back 
the  spears,  or  give  us  the  road  to-morrow ; and  unless  the  kam- 
raviona would  tell  him  this  and  bring  me  an  answer  at  once,  the 
spears  should  not  remain  in  my  hut  during  the  night.  Evident- 
ly in  alarm,  the  kamraviona,  with  Kidgwiga  and  Frij  in  company 
to  bear  him  witness,  returned  to  the  palace,  telling  Kamrasi  that 
he  saw  we  were  in  thorough  earnest.  He  extracted  a promise 
that  Kamrasi  would  have  a farewell  meeting  with  us  either  to- 
morrow or  the  next  day,  when  we  should  have  a large  escort  to 
Petherick’s  boats,  and  the  men  would  be  able  to  bring  back  any 
thing  that  he  wanted ; but  he  could  not  let  us  go  without  a part- 
ing interview,  such  as  we  had  at  Uganda  with  Mtesa. 

The  deputation,  delighted  with  their  success  and  the  manner 
in  which  it  was  effected,  hurried  back  to  me  at  once,  and  said  they 
were  so  frightened  themselves  that  they  would  have  skulked  away 


Nov.] 


UNYORO. 


501 


to  their  homes  and  not  come  near  me  if  they  could  not  have  ar- 
ranged matters  to  my  satisfaction.  Kamrasi  would  not  believe  I 
had  threatened  to  turn  out  his  spears  until  Frij  testified  to  their 
statements;  and  he  then  said,  “Let  Bana  keep  the  spears  and 
drink  the  pombe,  for  I would  not  wish  him  to  be  a prisoner 
against  his  will.”  Bombay,  after  taking  back  the  dwarf,  met  one 
of  N’yamasore’s  officers,  just  arrived  from  Uganda  on  some  im- 
portant business,  and  upbraided  Mtesa  for  not  having  carried  out 
my  instructions.  The  officer  in  turn  tried  to  defend  Mtesa’s  con- 
duct by  saying  he  had  given  the  deserters  seventy  cows  and  four 
women,  as  well  as  orders  to  join  us  quickly  ; but  they  had  been 
delayed  on  the  road,  because  wherever  they  went  they  plundered, 
and  no  one  liked  their  company.  Had  we  returned  to  Uganda, 
Mtesa  would  have  given  us  the  road  through  Masai,  which,  in 
their  opinion,  is  nearer  for  us  than  this  one. 

This  officer  had  been  wishing  to  see  us  as  much  as  we  had  been 
to  see  him ; but  Kamrasi  would  not  allow  him  to  get  access  to 
us,  from  fear,  it  was  said,  lest  the  Waganda  should  know  where 
we  were  hidden,  and  enable  Mtesa  to  send  an  army  to  come  and 
snatch  us  away.  As  the  officer  said  he  would  deliver  any  mes- 
sage I might  wish  to  send  to  Uganda,  I folded  a visiting-card  as  a 
letter  to  the  queen-dowager,  intimating  that  I wished  the  two 
men  whom  I sent  back  to  Mtesa  to  be  forwarded  on  to  Karague ; 
but  desired  that  the  remainder,  who  deserted  their  master  in  diffi- 
culty, should  be  placed  on  an  island  of  the  N’yanza,  to  live  in  ex- 
ile until  some  other  Englishmen  should  come  to  release  them; 
that  their  arms  should  be  taken  from  them  and  kept  in  the  pal- 
ace. I said  farther,  that  should  Mtesa  act  up  to  my  desires,  I 
would  then  know  he  was  my  friend,  and  other  white  men  would 
not  fear  to  enter  Uganda ; but  if  he  acted  otherwise,  they  would 
fear  lest  he  should  imprison  them,  or  seize  their  property  or  their 
men.  If  these  deserters  escaped  punishment,  no  white  men  would 
ever  dare  trust  their  lives  with  such  men  again.  The  officer  said 
he  should  be  afraid  to  deliver  such  a message  to  Mtesa  direct; 
but  he  certainly  would  tell  the  queen  every  word  of  it,  which 
would  be  even  more  efficacious. 

4 th.  I bullied  Kamrasi  by  telling  him  we  must  go  with  this 
moon,  for  the  benefit  of  its  light  while  crossing  the  Kidi  wilder- 
ness ; as,  if  we  did  not  reach  the  vessels  in  time  for  seasonable 
departure  down  the  Kile,  we  should  have  to  wait  another  year  for 
their  return  from  Khartum.  “What  I”  said  Kamrasi,  “ does  Bana 


502 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


forget  my  promised  appointment  that  I would  either  see  him  to- 
day or  to-morrow  ? I can  not  do  so  to-day,  and  therefore  to-mor- 
row we  will  certainly  meet  and  bid  good-by.”  The  Giani  men 
who  came  with  Bombay  said  they  would  escort  us  to  their  coun- 
try, although,  as  a rule,  they  never  cross  the  Kidi  wilderness  above 
once  in  two  years,  from  fear  of  the  hunting  natives,  who  make 
game  of  every  body  and  every  thing  they  see;  in  other  words, 
they  seize  strangers,  plunder  them,  and  sell  them  as  slaves.  To 
cross  that  tract,  the  dry  season  is  the  best,  when  all  the  grass  is 
burnt  down,  or  from  the  middle  of  December  to  the  end  of  March. 
I gave  them  a cow,  and  they  at  once  killed  it,  and,  sitting  down, 
commenced  eating  her  flesh  raw,  out  of  choice. 

5th.  The  kamraviona  came  to  inform  us  that  the  king  was  ready 
for  the  great  interview,  where  we  could  both  speak  what  we  had 
at  heart,  for  as  yet  he  had  only  heard  what  our  servants  had  to 
say;  and  there  was  a supplement  to  the  message  of  the  usual 
kind,  that  he  would  like  a present  of  a pencil.  The  pencil  was 
sent  in  the  first  place,  because  we  did  not  like  talking  about  trifles 
when  we  visited  great  kings. 

The  interview  followed.  It  was  opened  on  our  side  by  our 
saying  we  had  enjoyed  his  hospitality  a great  number  of  days, 
and  wished  to  go  to  our  homes;  should  he  have  any  message  to 
send  to  the  great  Queen  of  England,  we  should  be  happy  to  con- 
vey it.  A long  yarn  then  emanated  from  the  throne.  He  de- 
fended his  overcautiousness  when  admitting  us  into  Unyoro.  It 
was  caused  at  first  by  wicked  men  who  did  not  wish  us  to  visit 
him  ; he  subsequently  saw  through  their  representations,  and  now 
was  very  pleased  with  us  as  he  found  us.  Of  course  he  could 
not  tie  us  down  to  stopping  here  against  our  wish,  but,  for  safety’s 
sake,  he  would  like  us  to  stop  a little  longer,  until  he  could  send 
messengers  ahead,  requesting  the  wild  men  in  Kidi  not  to  molest 
us.  That  state  trick  failing  to  frighten  and  stop  us,  he  tried  an- 
other, by  saying,  when  we  departed,  he  hoped  we  would  leave  two 
men  with  guns  behind,  to  occupy  our  present  camp,  and  so  de- 
lude the  people  into  the  belief  that  merely  a party  of  their  fol- 
lowers, and  not  the  white  men  themselves,  had  left  his  house,  for 
the  purpose  of  spreading  terror  in  the  minds  of  the  people  we 
might  meet,  who,  not  knowing  the  number  of  men  behind,  would 
naturally  conclude  there  was  a large  reserve  force  ready  to  release 
us  in  case  of  necessity. 

This  foxy  speech  was  too  transparent  to  require  one  moment’s 


Nov.] 


UNYORO. 


503 


reflection.  In  a country  where  men  were  property,  the  fate  of 
one  or  two  left  behind  was  obvious ; and  had  we  doubted  that  his 
object  was  to  get  possession  of  them,  his  next  words  would  have 
sufficiently  revealed  it.  He  said,  “As  you  gave  men  to  Mtesa, 
why  would  you  refuse  them  to  me  ?”  but  was  checkmated  on  be- 
ing told,  “ Should  any  of  those  men  who  deserted  us  in  this  coun- 
try ever  reach  their  homes,  they  will  all  be  hung  for  breaking 
their  allegiance  or  oath.”  “Well,”  says  the  king,  “I  have  ac- 
ceded to  every  thing  you  have  to  say ; and  the  day  after  to-mor- 
row, when  I shall  have  had  time  to  collect  men  to  go  with  you, 
and  selected  the  two  princes  you  have  promised  to  educate,  we 
will  meet  again  and  say  good-by ; but  you  must  give  me  a gun 
and  some  more  medicine,  as  well  as  the  powder  and  ball  you 
promised  after  reaching  the  vessels.”  This  was  all  acquiesced  in, 
and  we  wished  to  take  his  portrait,  but  he  would  not  have  it  done 
on  any  consideration.  The  kamraviona  and  Kidgwiga  followed 
us  home,  and  told  Bombay  the  king  did  not  wish  us  to  leave  till 
next  moon,  and  then  he  would  like  us  to  fight  his  brothers  on  the 
way.  This  message,  sent  in  such  an  underhand  manner  after  the 
meeting,  Bombay  refused  to  deliver,  telling  them  he  should  be 
afraid  to  do  so. 

6th.  The  kamraviona  was  sent  to  us  with  four  loads  of  fish  and 
a request  for  ammunition,  notwithstanding  every  thing  asked  for 
yesterday  had  been  refused  until  we  reached  the  vessels.  “ Con- 
found Kamrasi!”  was  the  reply;  “does  he  think  we  came  here 
to  trick  kings  that  he  doubts  our  words?  We  came  to  open  the 
road ; and,  as  sure  as  we  wish  it,  we  will  send  him  every  thing 
that  has  been  promised.  Why  should  he  doubt  our  word  more 
than  any  body  else  ? We  are  not  accustomed  to  be  treated  in 
this  manner,  and  must  beg  he  won’t  insult  us  any  more.  Then 
about  fighting  his  brothers,  we  have  already  given  answer  that  we 
never  fight  with  black  men ; and  should  the  king  persist  in  it,  we 
will  never  take  another  thing  from  his  hands.  The  boys  shall 
not  go  to  England,  neither  will  any  other  white  men  come  this 
way.”  The  kamraviona  made  the  following  answer : “But  there 
are  two  more  things  the  king  wishes  to  know  about:  he  has  ask- 
ed the  question  before,  but  forgotten  the  answers.  Is  there  any 
medicine  for  women  or  children  which  will  prevent  the  offspring 
from  dying  shortly  after  birth?  for  it  is  a common  infirmity  in 
this  country  with  some  women,  that  all  their  children  die  before 
they  are  able  to  walk,  while  others  never  lose  a child.  The  other 


504 


THE  SOURCE  OF  TPIE  NILE. 


[1862. 


matter  of  inquiry  was,  What  medicine  will  attach  all  subjects  to 
their  king?  for  Kamrasi  wants  some  of  that  most  particularly.” 
I answered,  “ Knowledge  of  good  government,  attended  with  wis- 
dom and  justice,  is  all  the  medicine  we  know  of ; and  that  his 
boys  can  best  learn  in  England,  and  instruct  him  in  when  they  re- 
turn.” 

1th.  We  went  to  meet  Kamrasi  at  his  Kafu  palace  to  bid  good- 
by.  After  all  the  huckstering  and  begging  with  which  he  had 
tormented  us,  the  state  he  chose  to  assume  on  this  occasion  was 
very  ludicrous.  He  sat  with  an  air  of  the  most  solemn  dignity 
upon  his  throne  of  skins,  regarding  us  like  mere  slaves,  and  ask- 
ing what  things  we  intended  to  send  to  him.  On  being  told  we 
did  not  like  being  repeatedly  reminded  of  our  promises,  he  came 
down  a little  from  his  dignity,  saying,  “And  what  answer  have 
you  about  the  business  on  the  island?”  meaning  the  request  to 
fight  his  brothers.  That,  of  course,  could  not  be  listened  to,  as  it 
was  against  the  principles  of  our  country.  Grant’s  rings  were 
then  espied,  and  begged  for,  but  without  success.  We  told  him 
it  was  highly  improper  to  beg  for  every  thing  he  saw,  and  if  he 
persisted  in  it,  no  one  would  ever  dare  to  come  near  him  again. 

Then,  to  change  the  subject,  we  begged  K’yengo’s  men  might 
be  allowed  to  go  as  far  as  Gani  with  us ; but  no  reply  was  given 
until  the  question  was  put  again,  with  a request  that  the  reasons 
might  be  told  us  for  his  not  wishing  it,  as  we  saw  great  benefit 
would  be  derived  to  Unyoro,  as  the  Wanyamuezi,  instead  of 
trading  merely  with  Karague  and  Zanzibar,  would  bring  their 
ivory  through  this  country  and  barter  it,  thus  ‘converting  Unyoro 
into  a great  commercial  country ; when  Kamrasi  said,  “We  don’t 
want  any  more  ivory  in  Unyoro,  for  the  tusks  are  already  as  nu- 
merous as  grass.”  Kidgwiga  was  then  appointed  to  receive  all 
the  things  we  were  to  send  back  from  Gani ; our  departure  was 
fixed  for  the  9th,  and  the  king  walked  away  as  coldly  as  he  came, 
while  we  felt  as  jolly  as  birds  released  from  a cage. 

Floating  islands  of  grass  were  seen  going  down  the  Kafu,  re- 
minding us  of  the  stories  told  at  Kaze  by  Musa  Mziiri,  of  the  vio- 
lent manner  in  which,  at  certain  seasons,  the  N’yanza  was  said  to 
rise  and  rush  with  such  velocity  that  islands  were  uprooted  and 
carried  away.  In  the  evening  a pot  of  pombe  was  brought,  when 
the  man  in  charge,  half  drunk,  amused  us  with  frantic  charges,  as 
if  he  were  fighting  with  his  spear  ; and  after  settling  the  supposed 
enemy,  he  delighted  in  trampling  him  under  foot,  spearing  him 


Nov.] 


UNYORO. 


505 


repeatedly  through,  and  through,  then  wiping  the  blade  of  the 
spear  in  the  grass,  and  finally  polishing  it  on  his  'tufty  head,  when, 
with  a grunt  of  satisfaction,  he  shouldered  arms,  and  walked  away 
a hero. 

8th.  As  the  king  seemed  entirely  to  disregard  our  comfort  on 
the  journey,  we  made  a request  for  cows,  butter,  and  coffee ; in 
answer  to  which  we  only  got  ten  cows,  the  other  things  not  being- 
procurable  without  delay.  Twenty-four  men  were  appointed  to 
escort  us  and  bring  back  our  presents  from  Gani,  which  were  to 
be — six  carbines,  with  a magazine  of  ammunition,  a large  brass  or 
iron  water-pot,  a hair-brush,  lucifers,  a dinner-knife,  and  any  oth- 
er things  procurable  that  had  never  been  seen  in  Unyoro. 

Two  orphan  boys,  seized  by  the  king  as  slaves,  were  brought 
for  education  to  England ; but  as  they  were  both  of  the  common 
negro  breed,  with  nothing  attractive  about  them,  and  such  as  no 
one  could  love  but  their  mothers,  we  rejected  them,  fearing  lest  no 
English  boys  would  care  to  play  with  them,  and  told  Kamrasi 
that  his  offspring  only  could  play  with  our  children,  and  unless  I 
got  some  princes  of  that  interesting  breed,  no  one  would  ever  un- 
dertake to  teach  children  brought  from  his  country.  The  king 
was  very  much  disappointed  at  this  announcement ; said  they 
were  his  adopted  children,  and  the  only  ones  he  could  part  with, 
for  his  own  boys  were  mere  balls  of  fat,  and  too  small  to  leave 
home. 


506 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

THE  MARCH  TO  MADI. 

Sail  down  the  Kaftt. — The  navigable  Nile. — Fishing  and  Sporting  Population. — 
The  Scenery  on  the  River. — An  inhospitable  Governor. — Karuma  Falls. — Native 
Superstitions. — Thieveries. — Hospitable  Reception  at  Koki  by  Chongi. 

After  giving  Kamrasi  a sketching-stool,  we  dropped  down  the 
To  North  cha-  Kafu  two  miles  in  a canoe,  in  order  that  the  common 
guzi,9jft.  people  might  not  see  us,  for  the  exclusive  king  would 
not  allow  any  eyes  but  his  own  to  be  indulged  with  the  extraor- 
dinary sight  of  white  men  in  Unyoro!  The  palace  side  of  the 
river,  however,  as  we  paddled  away,  was  thronged  with  anxious 
spectators,  among  whom  the  most  conspicuous  was  the  king’s  fa- 
vorite nurse.  Dr.  K’yengo’s  men  were  very  anxious  to  accom- 
pany us,  even  telling  the  king,  if  he  would  allow  the  road  to  be 
opened  to  their  countrymen,  all  would  hongo,  or  pay  customs- 
duty,  to  him;  but  the  close,  narrow-minded  king  could  not  be 
persuaded.  Bombay  here  told  us  Kamrasi  at  the  last  moment 
wished  to  give  me  some  women  and  ivory ; and  when  told  we 
never  accepted  any  thing  of  that  sort,  wished  to  give  them  to  my 
head  servants;  but  this  being  contrary  to  standing  orders  also, 
he  said  he  would  smuggle  them  down  to  the  boats  for  Bombay  in 
such  a manner  that  I should  not  find  it  out. 

We  were  now  expected  to  march  again,  but,  being  anxious  my- 
self to  see  more  of  the  river,  before  starting,  I obtain- 

To  Kitwara,  Wtli.  , , , , „ . 

ed  leave  to  go  by  boat  as  tar  as  the  river  was  navi- 
gable, sending  our  cattle  by  land.  To  this  concession  was  ac- 
companied a request  for  a few  more  gun-caps,  and  liberty  was 
given  us  to  seize  any  pombe  which  might  be  found  coming  on 
the  river  in  boats,  for  the  supplies  to  the  palace  all  come  in  this 
manner.  We  then  took  boat  again,  an  immense  canoe,  and,  after 
going  a short  distance,  emerged  from  the  Kafu,  and  found  our- 
selves on  what  at  first  appeared  a long  lake,  averaging  from  two 
hundred  at  first  to  one  thousand  yards  broad,  before  the  day’s 
work  was  out ; but  this  was  the  Nile  again,  navigable  in  this-  way 
from  Urondogani. 


Nov.] 


THE  MARCH  TO  MADI. 


507 


Both,  sides  were  fringed  with  the  huge  papyrus  rush.  The  left 
one  was  low  and  swampy,  while  the  right  one — in  which  the  Kidi 
people  and  Wanyoro  occasionally  hunt — rose  from  the  water  in 
a gently  sloping  bank,  covered  with  trees  and  beautiful  convol- 
vuli, which  hung  in  festoons.  Floating  islands,  composed  of  rush, 
grass,  and  ferns,  were  continually  in  motion,  working  their  way 
slowly  down  the  stream,  and  proving  to  us  that  the  Nile  was  in 
full  flood.  On  one  occasion  we  saw  hippopotami,  which  our  men 
said  came  to  the  surface  because  we  had  domestic  fowls  on  board, 
supposing  them  to  have  an  antipathy  to  that  bird.  Boats  there 
were,  which  the  sailors  gave  chase  to ; but,  as  they  had  no  liquor, 
they  were  allowed  to  go  their  way,  and  the  sailors,  instead,  set  to 
lifting  baskets  and  taking  fish  from  the  snares  which  fishermen, 
who  live  in  small  huts  among  the  rushes,  had  laid  for  themselves. 

After  arrival,  as  we  found  the  boatmen  wished  to  make  off,  in- 
stead of  carrying  out  their  king’s  orders  to  take  us  to  the  water- 
fall, we  seized  all  the  paddles,  and  kept  their  tongues  quiet  by 
giving  them  a cow  to  eat.  The  overland  route,  by  which  Kidg- 
wiga  and  the  cattle  went,  was  not  so  interesting,  by  all  accounts, 
as  the  river  one ; for  they  walked  the  whole  way  through  marshy 
ground,  and  crossed  one  drain  in  boats,  where  some  savages  strug- 
gled to  plunder  our  men  of  their  goats. 

With  a great  deal  of  difficulty,  and  after  hours  of  delay,  we 
managed  to  get  under  way  with  two  boats  besides 
the  original  one ; and,  after  an  hour  and  a half’s  pad- 
dling in  the  laziest  manner  possible,  the  men  seized  two  pots  of 
pombe  and  pulled  in  to  Koki,  guided  by  a king’s  messenger,  who 
said  this  was  one  of  the  places  appointed  by  order  to  pick  up  re- 
cruits for  the  force  which  was  to  take  us  to  Gfani.  We  found, 
however,  nothing  but  loss  and  disappointment — one  calf  stolen, 
and  five  goats  nearly  so.  Fortunately,  the  thief  who  attempted 
to  run  off  with  the  goats  was  taken  by  my  men  in  the  act,  tied 
with  his  hands  painfully  tight  behind  his  back,  and  left,  with  his 
face  painted  white,  till  midnight,  when  his  comrades  stole  into 
Bombay’s  hut  and  released  him.  After  all  these  annoyances,  the 
chief  officer  of  the  place  offered  us  a present  of  a goat,  but  was 
sent  to  the  right-about  in  scorn.  How  could  he  be  countenanced 
as  a friend  when  the  men  under  him  steal  from  us? 

The  big  boat  gave  us  the  slip,  floating  away  and  leaving  its 
To  Gueni,  s.,  paddles  behind.  To  supply  its  place,  we  took  six 
small  boats,  turning  my  men  into  sailors,  and  going 


To  Koki,  nth. 


nth. 


508 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


as  we  liked.  The  river  still  continued  beautiful ; but,  after  pad- 
dling three  hours,  we  found  it  bend  considerably,  and  narrow  to 
two  hundred  yards,  the  average  depth  being  from  two  to  three 
fathoms.  At  the  fourth  hour,  imagining  our  cattle  to  be  far  be- 
hind, we  pulled  in,  and  walked  up  a well-cultivated  hill  to  Yara- 
gonjo’s,  the  governor  of  these  parts.  The  guide,  however,  on  first 
sighting  his  thorn-fenced  cluster  of  huts,  regarding  it  apparently 
with  the  awe  and  deference  due  to  a palace,  shrank  from  advan- 
cing, and  merely  pointed,  till  he  was  forced  on,  and  in  the  next 
minute  we  found  ourselves  confronted  with  the  heads  of  the  es- 
tablishment. The  father  of  the  house,  surprised  at  our  unexpect- 
ed manner  of  entrance — imagining,  probably,  we  were  the  king’s 
sorcerers,  in  consequence  of  our  hats,  sent  to  fight  “ the  brothers” 
— without  saying  a word,  quietly  beckoned  us  to  follow  him  out 
of  the  gate  by  the  same  way  as  we  came.  Preferring,  however, 
to  have  a little  talk  where  we  were,  we  remained. 

The  eldest  son,  a fine  young  man  considerably  above  six  feet 
high,  with  large  gashes  on  his  body  received  in  war  during  late 
skirmishes  with  the  refractory  brothers,  now  came  in,  did  the 
honors,  and,  on  hearing  of  the  importance  of  his  visitors,  directed 
us  to  some  huts  a little  distance  off,  where  we  could  rest  for  the 
night,  for  there  was  no  accommodation  for  such  a large  party  in  the 
palace.  The  red  hill  we  were  now  on,  with  plantain  gardens,  fine 
huts  neatly  kept,  and  dense  grasses  covering  the  country,  remind- 
ed us  of  our  residence  in  Uganda.  The  people  seemed  of  a de- 
cidedly sporting  order,  for  they  kept  hippopotamus-harpoons,  at- 
tached to  strong  ropes  with  trimmers  of  pith  wood,  in  their  huts ; 
and  outside,  trophies  of  their  toil  in  the  shape  of  a pile  of  heads, 
consisting  of  those  of  buffalo  and  hippopotami.  The  women,  any 
thing  but  pretty,  wore  their  mbugu  cut  into  two  flounces,  fasten- 
ed with  a drawing-string  round  the  waist ; and,  in  place  of  stock- 
ings, they  bound  strings  of  small  iron  beads,  kept  bright  and  shin- 
ing, carefully  up  the  leg  from  the  ankle  to  the  bottom  of  the  calf. 

Kidgwiga  with  our  cattle  arrived  in  the  morning.  A bundle 
to  Gueni  n„  °f  cartridges,  stolen  from  one  of  the  men’s  pouches, 

m,u  which  we  knew  could  only  have  been  done  by  some 

comrade,  was  discovered  by  stopping  the  rations  of  flesh.  The 
guilty  person,  to  save  detection,  threw  it  on  the  road,  and  allowed 
some  of  the  natives  to  pick  it  up.  Strange  as  it  may  appear,  the 
only  motive  for  this  petty  theft  was  the  hope  of  being  able  to  sell 
the  cartridges  for  a trifle  at  Gfani.  Yaragonjo  brought  us  a pres- 


Nov.] 


THE  MARCH  TO  MADI. 


509 


ent  of  a goat  and  plantains.  He  was  sorry  he  sent  ns  back  yes- 
terday from  his  house,  and  invited  us  to  change  ground  to  another 
village  close  by,  where  he  would  make  arrangements  for  our  re- 
ceiving other  boats,  as  the  ones  we  had  in  possession  must  go 
back.  Presuming  this  to  be  a very  fair  proposition,  and  think- 
ing we  would  only  have  to  walk  across  an  elbow  of  land  where 
the  river  bends  considerably,  we  gave  him  a return-present  of 
beads,  and  did  as  we  were  bid ; but,  after  moving,  it  was  obvious 
we  had  been  sold.  We  had  lost  our  former  boats,  and  no  others 
were  near  us;  therefore,  feeling  angry  with  Yaragonjo,  I walked 
back  to  his  palace,  taking  the  presented  goat  with  me,  as  I knew 
that  would  touch  the  savage  in  the  most  tender  part ; then  flaring- 
up  with  the  officer  for  treating  the  king’s  orders  with  contempt, 
as  well  as  his  guests,  by  sending  us  into  the  jungles  like  a pack 
of  thieves,  whose  riddance  from  his  presence  was  obviously  his 
only  intent,  I gave  him  his  goat  again,  and  said  I would  have 
nothing  more  to  say  to  him,  for  I should  look  to  the  king  for  re- 
dress. 

This  frightened  him  to  such  an  extent  that  he  immediately  pro- 
duced another  and  finer  goat,  which  he  begged  me  to  accept,  prom- 
ising to  convey  all  my  traps  to  the  next  governor’s,  where  there 
would  be  no  doubt  about  our  getting  boats.  He  did  not  intend 
to  deceive  us,  but  committed  an  error  in  not  informing  us  he  had 
no  boats  of  his  own ; and,  to  show  his  earnestness,  accompanied 
us  to  the  camp.  Here  I found  the  missing  calf  taken  at  Ivoki, 
and  a large  deputation  of  natives  awaiting  our  arrival.  They  told 
me  that  the  Koki  governor  had  taken  such  fright  in  consequence 
of  my  anger  when  I refused  his  proffered  goat,  that  he  had  traced— 
the  calf  back  to  Kitwara,  and  now  wished  to  take  Kidgwiga  a 
prisoner  to  Kamrasi’s  for  having  seized  five  cows  of  his,  and  a 
woman  from  another  governor.  As  yet  I had  not  heard  of  this 
piece  of  rough  justice ; and,  on  inquiry,  found  out  that  he  had 
been  compelled  to  do  as  he  had  done,  because  those  officers,  on 
finding  we  had  gone  ahead  in  boats,  would  not  produce  the  com- 
plement of  men  required  of  them  by  the  king’s  orders  for  escort- 
ing us  to  Grani ; but  now  they  sent  the  men,  the  woman  and  cows 
could  not  be  returned,  as  they  had  been  sent  overland  by  the  or- 
dinary route  to  the  ferry  on  the  Kile. 

Of  course  we  would  not  listen  to  this  reference  for  justice  with 
Kamrasi,  as  the  woman  and  cows  were  still  all  alive  ; commended 
Kidgwiga  for  carrying  out  his  orders  so  well,  and  told  the  officers 


510  . 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


they  had  merited  their  punishment — as  how  could  the  affairs  of 
government  be  carried  on,  when  subordinate  officers  refused  im- 
mediate compliance?  The  sub-mkungu  of  Northern  Grueni,  Ka- 
soro,  now  proffered  a goat  and  plantains,  and  every  thing  was  set- 
tled for  the  day. 

With  a full  complement  of  porters,  traveling  six  miles  through 
ToKijumbura  cultivation  and  jungle,  we  reached  the  head-quarters 
of  Governor  Kaeru,  where  all  the  porters  threw  down 
their  loads  and  bolted,  though  we  were  still  two  miles  from  the 
post.  We  inquired  for  the  boats  at  once,  but  were  told  they  were 
some  distance  off,  and  we  must  wait  here  for  the  night.  Four 
pots  of  pombe  were  sent  us,  and  Kaeru  thought  we  would  be  sat- 
isfied and  conform.  We  suspected,  however,  that  there  was  some 
trick  at  the  bottom  of  all ; so,  refusing  the  liquor,  we  said,  with 
proper  emphasis,  “Unless  we  are  forwarded  to  the  boats  at  once, 
and  get  them  on  the  following  morning,  we  can  not  think  of  re- 
ceiving presents  from  any  one.  This  served  our  purpose,  for  a 
fresh  set  of  porters  was  found  like  magic,  and  traps,  pombe,  and 
all  together,  were  forwarded  to  the  journey’s  end — a snug  batch 
of  huts  imbedded  in  large  plantain  cultivation  surrounded  by  jun- 
gle, and  obviously  near  the  river,  as  numerous  huge  harpoons,  in- 
tended for  striking  hippopotami,  were  suspended  from  the  roof. 
Kaeru  here  presented  us  with  a goat,  and  promised  the  boats  in 
the  morning. 

After  fighting  for  the  boats,  we  still  had  to  wait  the  day  for 
Kidgwiga  and  his  men,  who  said  it  was  all  very  well 
our  pushing  ahead,  indifferent  as  to  whether  men  were 
enlisted  or  not,  but  he  had  to  prepare  for  the  future  also,  as  he 
could  never  recross  the  Kidi  wilderness  by  himself ; he  must  have 
a sufficient  number  of  men  to  form  his  escort,  and  these  were  now 
grinding  corn  for  the  journey.  Numerous  visitors  called  on  us 
here,  and  consequently  our  picture-books  were  in  great  request. 
We  gave  Kaeru  some  beads. 

After  walking  two  miles  to  the  boats,  we  entered  the  district  of 
ToKokiinCho-  Chopi,  subject  to  Unyoro,  and  went  down  the  river, 
pi,  let/i.  keeping  the  Kikungu.ru  cone  in  view.  On  arrival  at 

camp,  Viarwanjo,  the  officer  of  the  district,  a very  smart  fellow, 
arrived  with  a large  escort  of  spearmen,  presented  pombe,  ordered 
fowls  to  be  seized  for  us,  and  promised  one  boat  in  the  morning, 
for  he  had  no  more  disposable,  and  even  that  one  he  felt  anxious 
about,  lest  the  men  on  ahead  should  seize  it. 


Nov.] 


THE  MARCH  TO  MADI. 


511 


I gave  Vi'arwanjo  some  beads,  and  dropped  down  the  river  in 
ToParangoni,  his  0Ifly  wretched  little  canoe — he,  with  Grant  and 
Uth ■ the  traps,  going  overland.  I caught  a fever,  and  so 

spent  the  night. 

Here  I halted  to  please  Magamba,  the  governor,  who  is  a rela- 
tion of  the  king.  He  called  in  great  state,  presented 
a cow  and  pombe,  was  much  pleased  with  the  picture- 
books,  and  wished  to  feast  his  eyes  on  all  the  wonders  in  the  hut. 
He  was  very  communicative,  also,  as  far  as  his  limited  knowledge 
permitted.  He  said  the  people  are  only  a sub-tribe  of  the  Madi ; 
and  the  reason  why  the  right  bank  of  the  river  is  preferred  to  the 
left  for  traveling  is,  that  Eionga,  who  lives  down  the  river,  is  al- 
ways on  the  look-out  for  Kamrasi’s  allies,  with  a view  to  kill  them. 
Magamba  also,  on  being  questioned,  told  us  about  Ururi,  a prov- 
ince of  Unyoro,  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Kimeziri,  a noted  gov- 
ernor, who  covers  his  children  with  bead  ornaments,  and  throws 
them  into  the  N’yanza,  to  prove  their  identity  as  his  own  true  off- 


Group  of  Kidi  Men  on  a Visit  to  King  Kamrasi. 


spring ; for  should  they  sink,  it  stands  to  reason  some  other  per- 
son must  be  their  father ; but  should  they  float,  then  he  recovers 
them.  One  of  Kamrasi’s  cousins,  Kaoroti,  with  his  chief  officer, 


512 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


called  on  us,  presenting  five  fowls  as  an  honorarium.  He  had  lit- 
tle to  say,  but  begged  for  medicine,  and  when  given  some  in  a 
liquid  state,  said  his  sub  would  like  some  also ; then  Kidgwiga’s 
wife,  who  was  left  behind,  must  have  some;  and  as  pills  were 
given  for  her,  the  two  men  must  have  dry  medicine  too,  to  take 
home  with  them.  Severe  drain  as  this  was  on  the  medicine-chest, 
Magamba  and  his  wife  must  have  both  wet  and  dry ; and  even 
others  put  in  a claim,  but  were  told  they  were  too  healthy  to  re- 
quire physicking.  Many  Kidi  men,  dressed  as  in  the  engraving, 
crossed  the  river  to  visit  Kamrasi ; they  could  not,  however,  pass 
us  without  satisfying  their  curiosity  with  a look.  Usually  these 
men  despise  clothes,  and  never  deign  to  put  any  covering  on  ex- 
cept out  of  respect,  when  visiting  Kamrasi.  Their  “ sou’-wester”- 
shaped  wigs  are  made  of  other  men’s  hair,  as  the  negro  hair  will 
not  grow  long  enough.  A message  came  from  Ukero,  the  gov- 
ernor general  of  Chopi,  to  request  we  would  not  go  down  the  riv- 
er in  boats  to-morrow,  lest  the  Chopi  ferry-men  at  the  falls  should 
take  fright  at  our  strange  appearance,  paddle  precipitately  across 
the  river,  hide  their  boats,  and  be  seen  no  more. 

We  started,  leaving  all  the  traps  and  men  to  follow,  and  made 
this  place  in  a stride,  as  a whisper  warned  me  that 
the  Karnma  Kamrasi’s  officers,  who  are  as  thick  as  thieves  about 
here,  had  made  up  their  minds  to  keep  us  each  one 
day  at  his  abode,  and  show  us  “ hospitality.”  Such  was  the  case, 
for  they  all  tried  their  powers  of  persuasion,  which  failing,  they 
took  the  alternative  of  making  my  men  all  drunk,  and  sending  to 
camp  sundry  pots  of  pombe.  The  ground  on  the  line  of  march 
was  highly  cultivated,  and  intersected  by  a deep  ravine  of  run- 
ning water,  whose  sundry  branches  made  the  surface  very  irreg- 
ular. The  sand-paper-tree,  whose  leaves  resemble  a cat’s  tongue 
in  roughness,  and  which  is  used  in  Uganda  for  polishing  their 
clubs  and  spear-handles,  was  conspicuous;  but  at  the  end  of  the 
journey  only  was  there  any  thing  of  much  interest  to  be  seen. 
There  suddenly,  in  a deep  ravine  one  hundred  yards  below  us,  the 
formerly  placid  river,  up  which  vessels  of  moderate  size  might 
steam  two  or  three  abreast,  was  now  changed  into  a turbulent  tor- 
rent. Beyond  lay  the  land  of  Kidi,  a forest  of  mimosa-trees,  ris- 
ing gently  away  from  the  water  in  soft  clouds  of  green.  This  the 
governor  of  the  place,  Kija,  described  as  a sporting-field,  where 
elephants,  hippopotami,  and  buffalo  are  hunted  by  the  occupants 
of  both  sides  of  the  river.  The  elephant  is  killed  with  a new 


THE  MARCH  TO  MAD I. 


Nov.] 


513 


kind  of  spear,  ■with,  a double-edged  blade  a yard  long,  and  a han- 
dle -which,  weighted  in  any  way  most  easy,  is  pear-shaped. 

With  these  instruments  in  their  hands,  some  men  climb  into 
trees  and  wait  for  the  herd  to  pass,  while  others  drive  them  un- 
der. The  hippopotami,  however,  are  not  hunted,  but  snared  with 
lunda,  the  common  tripping-trap  with  spike  drop,  which  is  placed 
in  the  runs  of  this  animal,  described  by  every  South  African  trav- 
eler, and  generally  known  as  far  as  the  Hametic  language  is 
spread.  The  Karuma  Falls,  if  such  they  may  be  called,  are  a 


The  Karuma  Falls — Kidi. 


mere  sluice  or  rush  of  water  between  high  sienitic  stones,  falling- 
in  a long  slope  down  a ten-feet  drop.  There  are  others  of  minor 
importance,  and  one  within  ear-sound,  down  the  river,  said  to  be 
very  grand. 

The  name  given  to  the  Karuma  Falls  arose  from  the  absurd  be- 
lief that  Karuma,  the  agent  or  familiar  of  a certain  great  spirit, 
placed  the  stones  that  break  the  waters  in  the  river,  and,  for  so 
doing,  was  applauded  by  his  master,  who,  to  reward  his  services 
by  an  appropriate  distinction,  allowed  the  stones  to  be  called  Ka- 
ruma. Near  this  is  a tree  which  contains  a spirit  whose  attributes 
for  gratifying  the  powers  and  pleasures  of  either  men  or  women 
who  summon  its  influence  in  the  form  appropriate  to  each  ap- 

K K 


514  the  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [1862. 

pear  to  be  almost  identical  with  that  of  Mahadeo’s  Ligna  in 
India. 

20 th.  We  halted  for  the  men  to  collect  and  lay  in  a store  of 
food  for  the  passage  of  the  Kidi  wilderness.  Presents  of  fish, 
caught  in  baskets,  were  sent  us  by  Kija.  They  were  not  bad  eat- 
ing, though  all  ground  animals  of  the  lowest  order.  At  the  Grand 
Falls  below  this,  Kidgwiga  informs  us,  the  king  had  the  heads  of 
one  hundred  men,  prisoners  taken  in  war  against  Bionga,  cut  oft' 
and  thrown  into  the  river. 

21sil  and  22 d.  The  governor,  who  would  not  let  us  go  until  we 
saw  him,  called  on  the  22d  with  a large  retinue,  attended  by  a 
harpist,  and  bringing  a present  of  one  cow,  two  loads  of  flour,  and 
three  pots  of  pombe.  He  expected  a chair  to  sit  upon,  and  got  a 
box,  as  at  home  he  has  a throne  only  a little  inferior  to  Kamrasi’s. 
He  was  very  generous  to  Bombay  on  his  former  journey  to  Gani, 
and  then  said  he  thought  the  white  men  were  all  flocking  this 
way  to  retake  their  lost  country ; for  tradition  recorded  that  the 
Wahuma  were  once  half  black  and  half  white,  with  half  the  hair 
straight  and  the  other  half  curly;  and  how  was  this  to  be  account- 
ed for  unless  the  country  formerly  belonged  to  white  men  with 
straight  hair,  but  was  subsequently  taken  by  black  men?  We 
relieved  his  apprehensions  by  telling  him  his  ancestors  were  for- 
merly all  white,  and  lived  in  a country  beyond  the  salt  sea,  till 
they  crossed  that  sea,  took  possession  of  Abyssinia,  and  are  now 
generally  known  by  the  name  of  Hubshies  and  Gallas ; but  nei- 
ther of  these  names  was  known  to  him. 

On  the  east,  beyond  Kidi,  he  only  knew  of  one  clan  of  Wahu- 
ma, a people  who  subsist  entirely  on  meat  and  milk.  The  sports- 
men of  this  country,  like  the  Wanyamuezi,  plant  a convolvulus 
of  extraordinary  size  by  the  side  of  their  huts,  and  pile  the  jaw- 
bones and  horns  of  their  spoils  before,  as  a means  of  bringing  good 
luck.  This  same  flower,  held  in  the  hand  when  a man  is  search- 
ing for  any  thing  that  he  has  lost,  will  certainly  bring  him  to  the 
missing  treasure.  In  the  evening,  Kidgwiga,  at  the  head  of  his 
brave  army,  made  one  of  their  theatrical  charges  on  “Bana”  with 
spear  and  shield,  swearing  they  would  never  desert  him  on  the 
march,  but  would  die  to  a man  if  it  were  necessary ; and  if  they 
deserted  him,  then  might  they  be  deprived  of  their  heads,  or  of 
other  personal  possessions  not  much  less  valuable. 

Just  as  we  were  ready  for  crossing  the  river,  a line  of*Kidi 
men  was  descried  filing  through  the  jungle  on  the  opposite  side, 


Nov.] 


THE  MARCH  TO  MADI. 


515 


m , , „ . making  their  way  for  a new-moon  visit  to  Rionga,  who 

Kidi,  23d  occasionally  leads  them  in  battle  against  Ukero.  The 
last  time  they  fought,  two  men  only  were  killed  on  Kamrasi’s  side, 
while  nine  fell  on  Rionga’s.  There  was  little  done  besides  cross- 
ing, for  the  last  cow  was  brought  across  at  sunset ; the  ferrying- 
toll  for  the  whole  being  one  cow,  besides  a present  of  beads  to  the 
head  officer.  Kidgwiga’s  party  sacrificed  two  kids,  one  on  either 
side  the  river,  flaying  them  with  one  long  cut  each  down  their 
breasts  and  bellies.  These  animals  were  then,  spread-eagle  fash- 
ion, laid  on  their  backs  upon  grass  and  twigs,  to  be  stepped  over 
by  the  travelers,  that  their  journey  might  be  prosperous ; and  the 
spot  selected  for  the  ordeal  was  chosen  in  deference  to  the  mzimu, 
or  spirit — a sort  of  wizard  or  ecclesiastical  patriarch,  whose  func- 
tions were  devoted  to  the  falls. 

After  a soaking  night,  we  were  kept  waiting  till  noon  for  the 
To  2d  camp,  forty  porters  ordered  by  Kamrasi,  to  carry  our  prop- 
uth'  erty  to  the  vessels,  wherever  they  might  be.  Only 

twenty-five  men  arrived,  notwithstanding  the  wife  and  one  slave 
belonging  to  a local  officer,  who  would  not  supply  the  men  re- 
quired of  him,  were  seized  and  confiscated  by  Ukero,  of  Wire. 
We  now  mustered  twenty  Wanguana,  twenty-five  country  por- 
ters, and  thirty-one  of  Kidgwiga’s  “ children,”  making  a total,  with 
ourselves,  of  seventy-eight  souls.  By  a late  arrival  a message 
came  from  Kamrasi.  Its  import  was,  that  we  must  defer  the 
march,  as  it  was  reported  the  refractory  brother  Rionga  harbored 
designs  of  molesting  us  on  the  way,  and  therefore  the  king  con- 
ceived it  prudent  to  clear  the  road  by  first  fighting  him.  With- 
out heeding  this  cunning  advice,  we  made  a short  march  across 
swamps,  and  through  thick  jungle  and  long  grasses,  which  proved 
any  thing  but  pleasant,  wet  and  laboring  hard  all  the  way. 

It  was  a rainy  day,  and  we  had  still  to  toil  on,  fighting  with  the 
To  3a  camp,  grasses.  We  marched  up  the  wet  margin  of  swamp 
mh~  all  day,  crossing  the  water  at  a fork  near  the  end. 

The  same  jungle  prevails  on  all  sides,  excluding  all  view ; and  the 
only  signs  of  man’s  existence  in  these  wilds  lay  in  the  meagre 
path,  which  is  often  lost,  and  an  occasional  hut  or  two,  the  tem- 
porary residence  of  the  sporting  Kidi  people. 

After  toiling  five  miles  through  the  same  terrible  grasses,  and 
to  4th  camp,  crossing  swamp  after  swamp,  we  were  at  last  reward- 
26th'  ed  by  a striking  view.  The  jungles  had  thinned ; we 

found  ourselves  unexpectedly  standing  on  the  edge  of  a plateau. 


516 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


on  the  west  of  *which,  for  distance  interminable,  lay  apparently  a 
low  flat  country  of  grass,  yellowed  by  the  sun,  with  a few  trees  or 
shrubs  only  thinly  scattered  over  the  surface ; while,  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  miles  in  the  rear,  bearing  south  by  west,  stood  conspic- 
uously the  Hill  of  Kisuga,  said  to  be  situated  in  Chopi,  not  far 
from  the  refractory  brothers.  But  this  view  was  only  for  the  mo- 
ment ; again  we  dived  into  the  grasses  and  forced  our  way  along. 
Presently  elephants  were  seen,  also  buffalo;  and  the  guide,  to 
make  the  journey  propitious,  plucked  a twig,  denuded  it  of  its 
leaves  and  branches,  waved  it  like  a wand  up  the  line  of  march, 
muttered  some  unintelligible  words  to  himself,  broke  it  in  twain, 
and  threw  the  separated  bits  on  either  side  of  the  path. 

Immediately  after  starting,  the  guide  ran  up  on  an  ant-hill  and 
to  5th  camp  pointed  out  to  us  all  the  glories  of  the  country  round. 
mh ■ In  our  rear  we  could  see  back  upon  Wire  and  the 

Hill  of  Kisuga ; to  the  west  were  the  same  low  plains  of  grass  ; 
east  and  by  south,  the  jungles  of  Kidi ; and  to  the  northward,  over 
downs  of  grass,  the  tops  of  some  hills,  which  marked  the  neigh- 
boring village  of  Koki,  which  we  were  making  for.  Its  appear- 
ance in  the  distance  warned  us  that  we  were  closing  on  the  habi- 
tations of  men,  and  we  were  told  that  Bombay  had  drunk  pombe 
there.  Then  plunging  through  grass  again  over  our  heads,  and 
crossing  constant  swamps,  we  arrived  at  a stream  which  drains  all 
these  lands  to  westward,  and  rested  a while  that  the  men  might 
bathe,  and  also  that  they  might  set  fire  to  the  grass  as  a telegraph 
to  the  settlement  of  Koki,  to  apprise  the  people  of  our  advance, 
and  be  ready  with  their  pombe  ere  our  arrival.  Shortly  after, 
toward  the  close  of  the  day’s  work,  as  a solitary  buffalo  was  seen 
grazing  by.  a brook,  I put  a bullet  through  him,  and  allowed  the 
savages  the  pleasure  of  dispatching  him  in  their  own  wild  fashion 
with  spears. 

It  was  a sight  quite  worthy  of  a little  delay.  No  sooner  was  it 
observed  that  the  huge  beast  could  not  retire,  than,  with  spring- 
ing bounds,  the  men,  all  spear  in  hand,  as  if  advancing  on  an  ene- 
my, went  top  speed  at  him,  over  rise  and  fall  alike,  till,  as  they 
neared  the  maddened  bull,  he  instinctively  advanced  to  meet  his 
assailants  with  the  best  charge  his  exhausted  body  could  muster 
up.  Wind,  however,  failed  him  soon  ; he  knew  his  disadvantage, 
and  tried  to  hide  by  plunging  in  the  water — the  worst  policy  he 
could  have  pursued ; for  the  men  from  the  bank  above  him  soon 
covered  him  with  bristling  spears,  and  gained  their  victory.  Now 


Nov.] 


THE  MARCH  TO  MADI. 


517 


wlaat  was  to  be  done  with  this  huge  carcass?  No  one  could  be 
induced  to  leave  it.  A cow  was  offered  as  a bribe  on  reaching 
camp ; but  no,  the  buffalo  was  bigger  than  a cow,  and  must  be 
quartered  on  the  spot;  so,  to  gain  our  object,  we  went  ahead,  and 
left  the  rear  men  to  follow,  thus  saving  a cow  in  rations,  for  we 
required  to  slaughter  one  every  day. 

By  dint  of  hard  perseverance  we  accomplished  ten  miles  over 
To  6th  camp,  the  same  downs  of  tall  grass  with  occasional  swamps. 
i3th'  We  saw  a herd  of  hartebeest,  and  reached  at  night  a 

place  within  easy  run  of  Koki  in  Gani. 


Group  of  Gani  Men. 


The  weather  had  now  become  fine.  At  length  we  reached  the 
to  Koki  in  Gani,  habitations  of  men — a collection  of  conical  huts  on 
29f/i-  the  ridge  of  a small  chain  of  granitic  hills  lying  north- 

west. As  we  approached  the  southern  extremity  of  this  chain, 
knots  of  naked  men,  perched  like  monkeys  on  the  granite  blocks, 
were  anxiously  watching  our  arrival.  The  guides,  following  the 
usages  of  the  country,  instead  of  allowing  us  to  mount  the  hill  and 
look  out  for  accommodation  at  once,  desired  us  to  halt,  and  sent  on 
a messenger  to  inform  Chongi,  the  governor  general,  that  we  were 
visitors  from  Kamrasi,  who  desired  he  would  take  care  of  us  and 
forward  us  to  our  brothers.  This  Mercury  brought  forth  a hearty 


\ 


518 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[I8G2. 


welcome;  for  Chongi  had  been  appointed  governor  by  Kamrasi 
of  this  district,  which  appears  to  have  been  the  extreme  northern 
limit  of  the  originally  vast  kingdom  of  Kittara.  All  the  elite  of 
the  place,  covered  with  war-paints,  and  dressed,  so  far  as  their 
nakedness  was  covered  at  all,  like  clowns  in  a fair,  charged  down 
the  hill  full  tilt  with  their  spears,  and,  after  performing  their  cus- 
tomary evolutions,  mingled  with  our  men,  and  invited  us  up  the 
hill,  where  we  no  sooner  arrived  than  Chongi,  a very  old  man, 
attended  by  his  familiar,  advanced  to  receive  us— one  holding  a 
white  hen,  the  other  a small  gourd  of  pombe  and  a little  twig. 

Chongi  gave  us  all  a friendly  harangue  by  way  of  greeting, 
and,  taking  the  fowl  by  one  leg,  swayed  it  to  and  fro  close  to  the 
ground  in  front  of  his  assembled  visitors.  After  this  ceremony 
had  been  also  repeated  by  the  familiar,  Chongi  then  took  the 
gourd  and  twig,  and  sprinkled  the  contents  all  over  us ; retired 
to  the  uganga,  or  magic  house — a very  diminutive  hut — sprinkled 
pombe  over  it;  and,  finally,  spreading  a cowskin  under  a tree, 
bade  us  sit,  and  gave  us  a jorum  of  pombe,  making  many  apolo- 
gies that  he  could  not  show  us  more  hospitality,  as  famine  had 
reduced  his  stores.  What  politeness  in  the  midst  of  such  bar- 
barism ! ! ! Nowhere  had  we  seen  such  naked  creatures,  whose 
sole  dress  consisted  of  bead,  iron,  or  brass  ornaments,  with  some 
feathers  or  cowrie-beads  on  the  head.  Even  the  women  content- 
ed themselves  with  a few  fibres  hung  like  tails  before  and  behind. 
Some  of  our  men,  who  had  seen  the  Watuta  in  Utambara,  de- 
clared these  savages  to  resemble  them  in  every  particular,  save 
one  small  specialty  in  their  costume,  alluded  to  in  the  description 
of  the  Zulu  Kafirs’  dress.  The  hair  of  the  men  was  dressed  in 
the  same  fantastic  fashion,  and  the  women  placed  half  gourds 
over  the  baby  as  it  rode  on  its  mother’s  back.  They  also,  like 
the  Kidi  people,  whom  they  much  fear,  carry  diminutive  stools  to 
sit  upon  wherever  they  go. 

Their  habitat  extends  from  this  to  the  Asua  River,  while  the 
Madi  occupy  all  the  country  west  of  this  meridian  to  the  Nile, 
which  is  far  beyond  sight.  The  villages  are  composed  of  little 
conical  huts  of  grass,  on  a framework  of  bamboo  raised  above  low 
mud  walls.  There  are  no  sultans  here  of  any  consequence,  each 
village  appointing  its  own  chief.  The  granitic  hills,  like  those  of 
Unyamuezi,  are  extremely  pretty,  and  clad  with  trees,  contrast- 
ing strangely  with  the  grassy  downs  of  indefinite  extent  around, 
which  give  the  place,  when  compared  with  the  people,  the  appear- 


Dec.] 


THE  MARCH  TO  MADI. 


519 


ance  of  a paradise  within  the  infernal  regions.  From  the  site  of 
Koki  we  saw  the  hills  behind  which,  according  to  Bombay,  Peth- 
erick  was  situated  with  his  vessels ; and  we  also  saw  a nearer  hill, 
behind  which  his  advanced  post  of  elephant-hunters  were  waiting 
our  arrival. 

I tried  to  ascertain  if  there  were  any  prefixes,  as  in  the  South 
African  dialects,  by  which  one  might  determine  the  difference  be- 
tween the  people  and  the  country ; but  I was  assured  that  both 
here  and  in  the  adjacent  countries  these  people  say  Chopi , Kidi , 
Gani,  Madi,  Bari , alike  for  person  and  place,  though  Jo  in  their 
language  is  the  equivalent  for  Wa  in  South  Africa,  and  Dano 
takes  the  place  of  Mtu.  All  the  words  and  system  of  language 
were  wholly  changed;  as,  for  example,  Poko  polio  wingi  bongo 
means  “we  do  not  understand;”  Mazi , “fire;”  Pi,  “water;”  Pe, 
“ there  is  none  ;”  Bugra,  “ cow.”  In  sound,  the  language  of  these 
people  resembles  that  of  the  Tibet  Tartars.  Chongi  considers 
himself  the  greatest  man  in  the  country,  and  of  noble  descent,  his 
great-grandfather  having  been  a Mhuma,  born  at  Ururi,  in  Un- 
yoro,  and  appointed  by  the  then  reigning  king  to  rule  over  this 
country,  and  keep  the  Kidi  people  in  check. 

3 Oth.  We  halted  at  the  earnest  solicitation  of  Chongi,  as  well  as 
of  the  Chopi  porters,  who  said  they  required  a day  to  lay  in  grain, 
as  the  wichwezi,  or  mendicant  sorcerers — for  so  they  thought  fit 
to  designate  Petherick’s  elephant-hunters — had  eaten  up  the  coun- 
try all  about  them,  and  those  who  went  before  with  Bombay  to 
visit  their  camp  could  get  no  food. 

lsE  We  halted  again  at  the  request  of  all  parties,  and  much  to 
the  delight  of  old  Chongi,  who  supplied  us  with  abundant  pombe, 
promised  a cow,  that  we  should  not  be  put  to  any  extra  expense 
by  stopping,  and  said  that  without  fail  he  would  furnish  us  with 
guides  who  knew  a short  cut  across  country,  by  which  we  might 
reach  the  wichwezi  camp  in  one  march,  instead  of  going  by  the 
circuitous  route  which  Bombay  formerly  took.  The  cow,  how- 
ever, never  came,  as  the  old  man  did  not  intend  to  give  his  own, 
and  his  officers  refused  to  obey  his  orders  in  giving  one  of  theirs. 

We  left  Koki  with  difficulty,  in  consequence  of  the  Chopi  por- 
ters refusing  to  carry  any  loads,  leaving  the  burden 
of  lifting  them  on  the  country  people,  as  they  said, 
“We  have  endured  all  the  trouble  and  hardships  of  bringing 
these  visitors  through  the  wilderness,  and  now,  as  they  have  vis- 
ited you,  it  is  your  place  to  help  them  on.”  The  consequence 


520 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


was,  we  had  to  engage  fresh  porters  at  every  village,  each  in  turn 
saying  he  had  done  all  the  work  which  with  justice  fell  to  his  lot, 
till  at  last  we  arrived  at  the  borders  of  a jungle,  where  the  men 
last  engaged,  feeling  tired  of  their  work,  pleaded  ignorance  of  the 
direct  road,  and  turned  off  to  the  longer  one,  where  villages  and 
men  were  in  abundance,  thus  upsetting  all  our  plans  and  doub- 
ling the  actual  distance. 

To  pass  the  night  half  way  was  now  imperative,  as  we  had 
been  the  whole  day  traveling  without  making  good  much  ground. 
From  the  Gani  people  we  had,  without  any  visible  change,  min- 
gled with  the  Madi  people,  who  dress  in  the  same  naked  fashion 
as  their  neighbors,  and  use  bows  and  arrows.  Their  villages 
were  all  surrounded  with  bomas  (fences),  and  the  country  in  its 
general  aspect  resembled  that  of  Northern  Unyamuezi.  At  one 
place,  the  good-natured  simple  people,  as  soon  as  we  reached  their 
village,  spread  a skin,  deposited  a stool  upon  it,  and  placed  in 
front  two  pots  of  pombe.  At  the  village  where  we  put  up,  how- 
ever, the  women  and  children  of  the  head  man  at  first  all  ran 
away,  and  the  head  man  himself  was  very  shy  of  us,  thinking  we 
were  some  unearthly  creatures.  He  became  more  reconciled  to 
us,  however,  when  he  perceived  we  fed  like  rational  beings ; and, 
calling  his  family  in  by  midnight,  presented  us  with  pombe,  and 
made  many  apologies  for  having  allowed  us  to  dine  without  a 
drop  of  his  beer,  for  he  was  very  glad  to  see  us. 


Dec.] 


MADI. 


521 


CHAPTER  XX. 

MADI. 

Junction  of  the  two  Hemispheres. — The  first  Contact  with  Persons  acquainted  with 
European  Habits. — Interruptions  and  Plots. — The  mysterious  Mahamed.- — -Native 
Revelries. — The  Plundering  and  Tyranny  of  the  Turks. — The  Rascalities  of  the 
Ivory  Trade. — Feeling  for  the  Nile. — Taken  to  see  a Mark  left  by  a European. — 
Buffalo,  Eland,  and  Rhinoceros  Stalking. — Meet  Baker. — Petherick’s  Arrival  at 
Gondokoro. 

After  receiving  more  pombd  from  the  chief,  and,  strange  to 
say,  hot  water  to  wash  with — for  he  did  not  know 

To  Faloro,  3d.  1 i iii  i , . , 

how  else  he  could  show  hospitality  better — we  start- 
ed again  in  the  same  straggling  manner  as  yesterday.  In  two 
hours  we  reached  the  palace  of  Piejoko,  a chief  of  some  preten- 
sions, and  were  summoned  to  stop  and  drink  pombe.  In  my 
haste  to  meet  Petherick’s  expedition  I would  listen  to  nothing, 
but  pushed  rapidly  on,  despite  all  entreaties  to  stop,  both  from  the 
chief  and  from  my  porters,  who,  I saw  clearly,  wished  to  do  me 
out  of  another  day. 

Half  my  men,  however,  did  stop  there,  but  with  the  other  half 
Grant  and  I went  on ; and,  as  the  sun  was  setting,  we  came  in 
sight  of  what  we  thought  was  Petherick’s  outpost,  X.  lat.  3°  10' 
33",  and  E.  long.  31°  50'  45".  My  men,  as  happy  as  we  were 
ourselves,  now  begged  I would  allow  them  to  fire  their  guns,  and 
prepare  the  Turks  for  our  reception.  Crack,  bang,  went  their 
carbines,  and  in  another  instant  crack,  bang,  was  heard  from  the 
northerners’  camp,  when,  like  a swarm  of  bees,  every  height  and 
other  conspicuous  place  was  covered  with  men.  Our  hearts  leap- 
ed with  an  excitement  of  joy  only  known  to  those  who  have  es- 
caped from  long-continued  banishment  among  barbarians  once 
more  to  meet  with  civilized  people  and  join  old  friends.  Every 
minute  increased  this  excitement.  We  saw  three  large  red  flags 
heading  a military  procession,  which  marched  out  of  the  camp 
with  drums  and  fifes  playing.  I halted  and  allowed  them  to  draw 
near.  When  they  did  so,  a very  black  man,  named  Mahamed,  in 
full  Egyptian  regimentals,  with  a curved  sword,  ordered  his  regi- 
ment to  halt,  and  threw  himself  into  my  arms,  endeavoring  to 


522 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


hug  and  kiss  me.  Rather  staggered  at  this  unexpected  manifest- 
ation of  affection,  which  was  like  a conjunction  of  the  two  hemi- 
spheres, I gave  him  a squeeze  in  return  for  his  hug,  hut  raised  my 
head  above  the  reach  of  his  lips,  and  asked  who  was  his  master. 
11  Petrik,”  was  the  reply.  “And  where  is  Petherick  now  ?”  “ Oh, 
he  is  coming.”  “ How  is  it  you  have  not  got  English  colors, 
then  ?”  “ The  colors  are  at  Debono’s.”  “ Who  is  Debono  ?” 

“ The  same  as  Petrik ; but  come  along  into  my  camp,  and  let  us 
talk  it  out  there saying  which,  Mahamed  ordered  his  regiment 
(a  ragamuffin  mixture  of  Nubians,  Egyptians,  and  slaves  of  all 
sorts,  about  two  hundred  in  number)  to  rightabout,  and  we  were 
guided  by  him,  while  his  men  kept  up  an  incessant  drumming  and 
fifing,  presenting  arms,  and  firing,  until  we  reached  his  huts,  situ- 
ated in  a village  kept  exactly  in  the  same  order  as  that  of  the  na- 
tives. Mahamed  then  gave  us  two  beds  to  sit  upon,  and  ordered 
his  wives  to  advance  on  their  knees  and  give  us  coffee,  while  oth- 
er men  brought  pombe,  and  prepared  us  a dinner  of  bread  and 
honey  and  mutton. 

A large  shed  was  cleared  for  Grant  and  myself,  and  all  my 
men  were  ordered  to  disperse,  and  chum  in  ones  and  twos  with 
Mahamed’s  men ; for  Mahamed  said,  now  we  had  come  there,  his 
work  was  finished.  “If  that  is  the  case,”  I said,  “tell  us  your 
orders ; there  must  be  some  letters.”  He  said,  “ No,  I have  no 
letters  or  written  orders,  though  I have  directions  to  take  you  to 
Glondokoro  as  soon  as  you  come.  I am  Debono’s  vakil,  and  am 
glad  you  are  come,  for  we  are  all  tired  of  waiting  here  for  you. 
Our  business  has  been  to  collect  ivory  while  waiting  for  you.”  I 
said,  “ How  is  it  Petherick  has  not  come  here  to  meet  me?  is  he 
married?”  “Yes,  he  is  married;  and  both  he  and  his  wife  ride 
fore-and-aft  on  one  animal  at  Khartum.”  “Well,  then,  where  is 
the  tree  you  told  Bombay  you  would  point  out  to  us  with  Peth- 
erick’s  name  on  it?”  “ Oh,  that  is  on  the  way  to  Glondokoro.  It 
was  not  Petherick  who  wrote,  but  some  one  else,  who  told  me  to 
look  out  for  your  coming  this  way.  We  don’t  know  his  name, 
but  he  said  if  we  pointed  it  out  to  you,  you  would  know  at  once.” 

4 th.  After  spending  the  night  as  Mahamed’s  guest,  I strolled 
round  the  place  to  see  what  it  was  like,  and  found  the  Turks  were 
all  married  to  the  women  of  the  country,  whom  they  had  dressed 
in  clothes  and  beads.  Their  children  were  many,  with  a prospect 
of  more.  Temporary  marriages,  however,  were  more  common 
than  others,  as,  in  addition  to  their  slaves,  they  hired  the  daugh- 


Dec.] 


MADI. 


523 


ters  of  the  villagers,  who  remained  with  them  while  they  were 
trading  here,  but  went  back  to  their  parents  when  they  marched 


Turks’  Wives  and  Children. 


to  Gondokoro.  They  had  also  many  hundreds  of  cattle,  which  it 
was  said  they  had  plundered  from  the  natives,  and  now  used  for 
food,  or  to  exchange  for  ivory  or  other  purposes.  The  scenery 
and  situation  were  perfect  for  health  and  beauty.  The  settle- 
ment lay  at  the  foot  of  small,  well-wooded  granitic  hills,  even 
prettier  than  the  outcrops  of  Unyamuezi,  and  was  intersected  b}^ 
clear  streams. 

At  noon  all  the  rear  traps  arrived,  with  Bombay  and  Piejoko 
in  person.  This  good  creature  had  treated  Bombay  very  hand- 
somely on  his  former  journey.  He  said  he  felt  greatly  disap- 
pointed at  my  pushing  past  him  yesterday,  as  he  wished  to  give 
me  a cow,  but  still  hoped  I would  go  over  and  make  friends  with 
him.  I gave  him  some  beads,  and  off  he  walked.  Old  Chongi’s 
“ children,”  who  had  escorted  us  all  the  way  from  Kamrasi’s,  then 
took  some  beads  and  cast-off  clothes  for  themselves  and  their  fa- 
ther, and  left  us  in  good-humor. 

This  reduced  the  expedition  establishment  to  my  men  and 
Kidgwiga’s.  With  these,  now,  as  there  was  no  letter  from  Peth- 
erick,  I ordered  a march  for  the  next  morning,  but  at  once  met 
with  opposition.  Mahamed  told  me  that  there  were  no  vessels  at 
Gondokoro ; we  must  wait  two  months,  by  which  time  he  expect- 
ed they  would  arrive  there,  and  some  one  would  come  to  meet 


524 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


him  with  beads.  I said  in  answer  that  Petherick  had  promised 
to  have  boats  there  all  the  year  round,  so  I would  not  wait. 
“Then,”  said  Mahamed,  “we  can  not  go  with  you,  for  there  is  a 
famine  at  this  season  at  Gondokoro.”  I said,  “Never  mind;  do 
you  give  me  an  interpreter,  and  I will  go  as  I am.”  “ No,”  said 
Mahamed,  “that  will  not  do,  as  the  Bari  people  are  so  savage, 
you  could  not  get  through  them  with  so  small  a force;  besides 
which,  just  now  there  is  a stream  which  can  not  be  crossed  for  a 
month  or  more.” 

Unable  to  stand  Mahamed’s  shifting  devices  with  equanimity 
any  longer,  I accused  him  of  trying  to  trick  me  in  the  same  way 
as  all  the  common  savage  chiefs  had  done  wherever  I went,  be- 
cause they  wished  me  to  stop  for  their  own  satisfaction,  quite  dis- 
regarding my  wishes  and  interests;  so  I said  I would  not  stop 
there  any  longer ; I would  raft  over  the  river,  and  find  my  way 
through  the  Bari,  as  I had  through  the  rest  of  the  African  sav- 
ages. We  talked  and  talked,  but  could  make  nothing  of  it.  I 
maintained  that  if  he  was  commissioned  to  help  me,  he  at  least 
could  not  refuse  to  give  me  a guide  and  interpreter ; when,  if  I 
failed  in  the  direct  route,  I would  try  another,  but  go  I must,  as  I 
could  not  hold  out  any  longer,  being  short  of  beads  and  cows.  I 
had  just  enough,  but  none  to  spare.  lie  told  me  not  to  think  of 
such  a thing,  as  he  would  give  me  all  that  was  needful  both  for 
myself  and  my  men ; but  if  I would  have  patience,  he  would  col- 
lect all  his  officers,  and  the  next  morning  would  see  what  their 
opinions  were  on  the  subject. 

5 th.  I found  that  every  one  of  Mahamed’s  men  was  against  our 
going  to  Gondokoro.  They  told  me,  in  fact,  with  one  voice,  that 
it  was  quite  impossible ; but  they  said,  if  I liked  they  would  fur- 
nish me  guides  to  escort  me  on  ten  marches  to  a depot  at  the  far- 
ther end  of  the  Madi  country,  and  if  I chose  to  wait  there  until 
they  could  collect  all  their  ivory  tusks  together  and  join  us,  we 
would  be  a united  party  too  formidable  to  be  resisted  by  the  Bari 
people.  This  offer  of  immediate  guides  I of  course  accepted  at 
once,  as  to  keep  on  the  move  was  my  only  desire  at  that  time; 
for  my  men  were  all  drunk,  and  Kidgwiga’s  were  deserting.  Once 
more  on  the  way,  I did  not  despair  of  reaching  Gondokoro  by 
myself.  In  the  best  good-humor  now,  I showed  Mahamed  our 
picture-books ; and  as  he  said  he  always  drilled  his  two  hundred 
men  every  Friday,  I said  I would,  if  he  liked,  command  them  my- 
self. This  being  agreed  to,  all  the  men  turned  out  in  their  best, 


Dec.] 


MADI. 


525 


and,  to  my  surprise,  they  not  only  knew  the  Turkish  words  of 
command,  but  manoeuvred  with  some  show  of  good  training; 
though,  as  might  have  been  expected  with  men  of  this  ragamuf- 
fin stamp,  all  the  privates  gave  orders  as  well  as  their  captains.. 

When  the  review  was  over,  I complimented  Mahamed  on  the 
efficiency  of  his  corps,  and,  retiring  to  my  hut,  as  I thought  I had 
him  now  in  a good  humor,  again  discussed  our  plans  for  going 
ahead  the  next  day.  Scarcely  able  to  look  me  in  the  face,  the 
humbugging  scoundrel  said  he  could  not  think  of  allowing  me  to 
go  on  without  him,  for  if  any  accident  happened  he  would  be 
blamed  for  it.  At  the  same  time,  he  could  not  move  for  a few 
days,  as  he  expected  a party  of  men  to  arrive  about  the  next  new 
moon  with  ivory.  My  hurry  he  thought  very  uncalled  for ; for, 
as  I had  spent  so  many  days  with  Kamrasi,  why  could  I not  be 
content  to  do  so  with  him  ? 

I was  provoked  beyond  measure  with  this,  as  it  upset  all  my 
plans.  Kidgwiga’s  men  were  deserting,  and  I feared  I should  not 
be  able  to  keep  my  promise  to  Kamrasi  of  sending  him  another 
white  visitor,  wTho  would  perhaps  do  what  I had  left  undone,  when 
I did  not  follow  the  connection  of  the  Little  Luta  Hzige  with  the 
Kile.  We  battled  away  again,  and  then  Mahamed  said  there  was 
not  one  man  in  his  camp  who  would  go  with  me  until  their  crops 
were  cut  and  taken  in,  for  while  residing  here  they  grew  grain 
for  their  support.  We  battled  again,  and  Mahamed  at  last,  out 
of  patience  himself,  said,  “Just  look  here,  what  a fix  I am  in,” 
showing  me  a hut  full  of  ivory.  “ Who,”  he  said,  “ is  to  carry  all 
this  until  the  natives  have  got  in  their  crops  ?”  This,  I said,  so 
far  as  I was  concerned,  was  all  nonsense.  I merely  had  asked  him 
for  a guide  and  interpreter,  for  go  I must.  In  a huff  he  then  ab- 
sconded ; and  my  men — those  of  them  who  were  not  too  drunk — 
came  and  said  to  me,  “For  God’s  sake  let  us  stop  here.  Mahamed 
says  the  road  is  too  dangerous  for  us  to  go  alone ; he  has  prom- 
ised to  carry  all  our  loads  for  us  if  we  stop ; and  all  Kamrasi’s 
men  are  running  away,  because  they  are  afraid  to  go  on.” 

6th.  Kext  morning  I called  Kidgwiga,  and  begged  him  to  pro- 
cure two  men  as  guides  and  interpreters.  He  said  he  could  not 
find  any.  I then  went  at  Mahamed  again,  who  first  said  he  would 
give  me  the  two  men  I wanted,  then  went  off,  and  sent  word  to 
say  he  would  not  be  visible  for  three  days.  This  was  too  much 
for  my  patience,  so  I ordered  all  my  things  to  be  tied  up  in  march- 
ing order,  and  gave  out  that  I should  leave  and  find  out  the  way 


526 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1862. 


myself  the  following  morning.  Like  an  evil  spirit  stirred  up,  my 
preparations  for  going  no  sooner  were  heard  of  than  Mahamed 
appeared  again,  and  after  a long  and  sharp  contest  in  words,  he 
promised  us  guides  if  I would  consent  to  write  him  a note,  testi- 
fying that  my  going  was  against  his  expressed  desire. 

This  was  done;  but  the  next  morning  (7th),  after  our  things 
were  put  out  for  the  march,  all  Kidgwiga’s  men  bolted,  and  no 
guides  would  take  service  with  us.  It  was  now  obvious  that, 
even  supposing  I succeeded  in  taking  Kidgwiga  to  Grondokoro,  he 
would  not  have  a sufficient  escort  to  come  back  with,  unless,  in- 
deed, it  happened  that  Englishmen  might  be  there  who  might 
wish  to  carry  out  my  investigations  by  penetrating  to  the  Little 
Luta  Nzige,  and  to  pay  a visit  to  Kamrasi.  I therefore  called 
Kidgwiga,  and  after  explaining  these  circumstances,  advised  him 
to  go  back  to  Kamrasi.  He  was  loth  to  leave,  he  said,  until  his 
commission  was  fully  performed ; but,  as  I thought  it  advisable, 
he  would  consent.  I then  gave  him  a double  gun  and  ammuni- 
tion, as  well  as  some  very  rich  beads  which  I obtained  from  Ma- 
hamed’s  stores,  to  take  back  to  Kamrasi,  with  orders  to  say  that, 
as  soon  as  I reached  Grondokoro  or  Khartum,  I would  send  anoth- 
er white  man  to  him — not  by  the  way  I had  come  through  Kidi, 
but  by  the  left  bank  of  the  Kile ; to  which  Kidgwiga  replied, 
“ That  will  do  famously,  for  Kamrasi  will  change  his  residence 
soon,  and  come  on  the  Nile  this  side  of  Rionga’s  palace,  in  order 
that  he  may  cut  in  between  his  brother  and  the  Turks’  guns.” 

After  this  I gave  a lot  of  rich  beads  to  Kidgwiga  for  himself, 
and  a lot  also  for  the  senior  officers  at  the  Chopi  and  Kamrasi’s 
palaces,  and  sent  the  whole  set  off  as  happy  as  birds.  When 
these  men  were  gone,  I tried  to  get  up  an  elephant-shooting  ex- 
cursion due  west  of  this,  with  a view  to  see  where  the  Nile  was, 
for  I would  not  believe  it  was  very  far  off,  although  no  one  as 
yet,  since  I left  Chopi,  either  would  or  could  tell  me  where  the 
stream  had  gone  to. 

8th.  Mahamed  professed  to  be  delighted  I had  made  up  my 
mind  to  such  a scheme.  He  called  the  heads  of  the  villages  to 
give  me  all  the  information  I sought  for,  and  went  with  me  to 
the  top  of  a high  rock,  from  which  we  could  see  the  hills  I first 
viewed  at  Chopi,  sweeping  round  from  south  by  east  to  north, 
which  demarked  the  line  of  the  Asha  River.  The  Nile  at  that 
moment  was,  I believed,  not  very  far  off ; yet,  do  or  say  what  I 
would,  every  body  said  it  was  fifteen  marches  off,  and  could  not 


Dec.] 


MADI. 


527 


be  visited  under  a month.*  It  would  be  necessary  for  me  to  take 
thirty -six  of  Makamed’s  men,  besides  all  my  own,  to  go  there, 
which,  he  said,  I was  welcome  to,  but  I should  have  to  pay  them 
for  their  services.  This  was  a damper  at  once. 

I knew  in  my  mind  all  these  reports  were  false,  but,  rather  than 
be  out  of  the  way  when  the  time  came  for  marching,  I agreed  to 
wait  patiently,  write  the  history  of  the  Wahuma,  and  make  collec- 
tions, till  Mahamed  was  ready,  trusting  that  I might  find  some  one 
at  Grondokoro  who  would  finish  what  I had  left  undone ; or  else, 
after  arriving  there,  I might  go  up  the  Nile  in  boats  and  see  for 
myself.  The  same  evening  I was  attracted  by  the  sound  of  drums 
to  a neighboring  village,  where,  by  the  moonlight,  I found  the 
natives  were  dancing.  A more  indecent  or  savage  spectacle  I 
never  witnessed.  The  whole  place  was  alive  with  naked  human- 
ity in  a state  of  constant  motion.  Drawing  near,  I found  that  a 
number  of  drums  were  beaten  by  men  in  the  centre.  Next  to 
them  was  a deep  ring  of  women,  half  of  whom  carried  their  ba- 
bies; and  outside  these  again  was  a still  deeper  circle  of  men, 
some  blowing  horns,  but  most  holding  their  spears  erect.  To  the 
sound  of  the  music  both  these  rings  of  the  opposite  sexes  kept 
jumping  and  sidling  round  and  round  the  drummers,  making  the 
most  grotesque  and  obscene  motions  to  one  another. 

9th  to  14A.  Nothing  of  material  consequence  happened  until 
the  14th,  when  eighty  of  Eionga’s  men  brought  in  two  slaves  and 
thirty  tusks  of  ivory  as  a present  to  Mahamed.  Of  course,  I knew 
this  was  a bribe  to  induce  Mahamed  to  fight  with  Eionga  against 
Kamrasi ; but,  counting  that  no  affair  of  mine,  I tried  to  induce 
these  men  to  give  me  some  geographical  information  of  the  coun- 
tries they  had  just  left.  Not  one  of  them  would  come  near  me, 
for  they  knew  I was  friends  with  Kamrasi ; and  Mahamed’s  men, 
when  they  saw  mine  attempting  to  converse  with  them,  abused 
them  for  “prying  into  other  men’s  concerns.”  “These  men,” 
they  said,  “ are  our  friends,  and  not  yours ; if  we  choose  to  give 
them  presents  of  cloth  and  beads,  and  they  give  us  a return  in 
ivory,  what  is  that  to  you  ?”  Mysterious  Mahamed  next  came  to 
me  and  begged  for  a blanket,  as  he  said  he  was  going  off  for  a few 
days  to  a depot  where  he  had  some  ivory ; and  he  also  wanted  to 
borrow  a musket,  as  one  of  his  had  been  burnt. 

My  suspicions,  and  even  apprehensions,  were  now  greatly  ex- 

* It  will  appear  shortly  that  it  was  actually  not  more  than  two  marches  to  the 
northward  of  Faloro. 


528  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE.  [1862. 

cited.  I began  to  think  he  had  prevailed  on  me  to  stop  here,  that 
I might  hold  the  place  while  he  went  to  fight  Kamrasi  with  Ri- 
onga’s  men ; so  I begged  him  to  listen  to  my  advice,  and  not  at- 
tempt to  cross  the  Nile,  “else,”  I said,  “all  his  guns  would  be 
taken  from  him,  and  his  passage  back  cut  off.”  At  once  he  saw 
the  drift  of  my  thought,  and  said  he  was  not  going  toward  the 
Nile,  but,  on  the  contrary,  he  was  going  with  Rionga’s  men  in  the 
opposite  direction,  to  a place  called  Paira.  “ If  that  is  the  case,” 
I said,  “why  do  you  want  a gun?”  “Because  there  are  some 
other  matters  to  settle.  I shall  not  be  long  away,  and  my  men 
will  take  care  of  you  while  I am  gone.”  I gave  him  the  blanket 
after  this,  but  was  too  suspicious  of  his  object  to  lend  him  a gun. 

15 th  to  2 Oth.  I saw  Mahamed  march  his  regiment  out  of  the 
place,  drums  and  fifes  playing,  colors  flying,  a hundred  guns  fir- 
ing, officers  riding,  some  of  them  on  donkeys,  and  others — yes, 
actually— on  cows ! while  a host  of  the  natives,  Rionga’s  men  in- 
cluded, carrying  spears  and  bows  and  arrows,  looked  little  like  a 
peaceful  caravan  of  merchants,  but  very  much  resembled  a band 
of  marauders.  After  this  I heard  they  were  not  going  to  Rionga 


Removing  a Village — Madi. 

himself,  but  were  going  to  show  Rionga’s  men  the  way  that  they 
made  friends  with  old  Chongi  of  Koki.  In  reality,  Chongi  had 


Jan.] 


MADI. 


529 


invited  Makamed  to  fight  against  an  enemy  of  kis,  in  whose  ter- 
ritories immense  stores  of  ivory  were  said  to  be  buried,  and  the 
people  had  an  endless  number  of  cattle ; for  they  lived  by  plun- 
der, and  had  lifted  most  of  old  Chongi’s;  and  this  was  the  service 
on  which  the  expedition  had  set  off. 

21  st  to  31st.  I had  constantly  wondered,  ever  since  I first  came 
here,  and  saw  the  brutal  manner  in  which  the  Turks  treated  the 
natives,  that  these  Madi  people  could  submit  to  their  “ Egyptian 
taskmasters,”  and  therefore  was  not  surprised  now  to  find  them 
pull  down  their  huts  and  march  off  with  the  materials  to  a distant 
site.  Every  day  this  sort  of  migration  continued,  just  as  you  see 
in  the  picture ; and  nothing  more  important  occurred  until  Christ- 
mas day,  when  an  armadillo  was  caught,  and  I heard  from  Maha- 
med’s  head  wife  that  the  Turks  had  plundered  and  burnt  down 
three  villages,  and  in  all  probability  they  wrould  return  shortly 
laden  with  ivory.  This  was  a true  anticipation ; for  on  the  31st 
Mahamed  came  in  with  his  triumphant  army  laden  with  ivory, 
and  driving  in  five  slave-girls  and  thirty  head  of  cattle. 


Turks  tying  up  Ivories  for  the  March. 


ls£  to  3d.  I now  wished  to  go  on  with  the  journey,  as  I could 
get  no  true  information  out  of  these  suspicious  blackguards  who 

L L 


530 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1863. 


called  themselves  Turks;  but  Mahamed  postponed  it  until  the 
5th,  bj  which  time  he  said  he  would  be  able  to  collect  all  the  men 
he  wanted  to  carry  his  ivory.  Eionga’s  men  then  departed,  and 
Mahamed  showed  some  signs  of  getting  ready  by  ordering  one 
dozen  cows  to  be  killed,  the  flesh  of  which  was  to  be  divided 
among  those  villagers  who  would  carry  his  ivory,  and  the  skins 
to  be  cut  into  thongs  for  binding  the  smaller  tusks  of  ivory  to- 
gether in  suitable  loads. 

4 th  and  5th.  Another  specimen  of  Turkish  barbarity  came  un- 
der my  notice,  in  the  head  man  of  a village  bringing  a large  tusk 
of  ivory  to  Mahamed  to  ransom  his  daughter  with,  for  she  had 
been  seized  as  a slave  on  his  last  expedition,  in  common  with  oth- 
ers who  could  not  run  away  fast  enough  to  save  themselves  from 
the  Turks.  Fortunately  for  both,  -it  was  thought  necessary  for 
the  Turks  to  keep  on  good  terms  with  the  father  as  an  influential 
man,  and  therefore,  on  receiving  the  tusk,  Mahamed  gave  back 
the  girl,  and  added  a cow  to  seal  their  friendship. 

6th  to  10th.  I saw  this  land-pirate  Mahamed  take  a blackmail 
like  a negro  chief.  Some  men  who  had  fled  from  their  village 
when  Mahamed’s  plundering  party  passed  by  them  the  other  day, 
surprised  that  he  did  not  stop  to  sack  their  homes,  now  brought 
ten  large  tusks  of  ivory  to  him  to  express  the  gratitude  they  said 
they  felt  for  his  not  having  molested  them.  Mahamed,  on  find- 
ing how  easy  it  was  to  get  taxes  in  this  fashion,  instead  of  thank- 
ing them,  assumed  the  air  of  the  great  potentate,  whose  clemency 
was  abused,  and  told  the  poor  creatures  that,  though  they  had 
dpne  well  in  seeking  his  friendship,  they  had  not  sufficiently  con- 
sidered his  dignity,  else  they  would  have  brought  double  that 
number  of  tusks,  for  it  was  impossible  he  could  be  satisfied  at  so 
low  a price.  “What,”  said  these  poor  creatures,  “can  we  do, 
then,  for  this  is  all  that  we  have  got?”  “Oh,”  says  Mahamed, 
“ if  it  is  all  you  have  got  now  in  store,  I will  take  these  few  for 
the  present,  but  when  I return  from  Gondokoro  I expect  you 
will  bring  me  just  as  many  more.  Good-by,  and  look  out  for 
yourselves.” 

Tired  beyond  all  measure  with  Mahamed’s  procrastination,  as  I 
to  Panyoro,  could  not  get  him  to  start,  I now  started  myself,  much 

1Uh ■ to  his  disgust,  and  went  ahead  again,  leaving  word 

that  I would  wait  for  him  at  the  next  place,  provided  he  did  not 
delay  more  than  one  day.  The  march  led  us  over  long  rolling 
downs  of  grass,  where  we  saw  a good  many  antelopes  feeding ; 


MAH  AM  ED’S 


Jan.] 


MADI. 


533 


and  after  going  ten  miles,  we  came,  among  other  villages,  to  one 
named  Panjoro,  in  which  we  found  it  convenient  to  put  up.  At 
first  all  the  villagers,  thinking  us  Turks,  bolted  away  with  their 
cattle  and  what  stores  they  could  carry ; but,  after  finding  out 
who  we  were,  they  returned  again,  and  gave  us  a good  reception, 
helping  us  to  rig  up  a shed  with  grass,  and  bringing  a cow  and 
some  milk  for  our  dinner. 

12 th.  To-day  I went  out  shooting,  but,  though  I saw  and  fired 
at  a rhinoceros,  as  well  as  many  varieties  of  antelopes,  I did  not 
succeed  in  killing  one  head.  All  my  men  were  surprised  as  well 
as  myself;  and  the  villagers  who  were  escorting  me  in  the  hope 
of  getting  flesh,  were  so  annoyed  at  their  disappointment,  they  of- 
fered to  cut  my  fore  finger  with  a spear  and  spit  on  it  for  good 
luck.  Joining  in  their  talk,  I told  them  the  powder  must  be 
crooked;  but,  on  inspecting  my  rifle  closer,  I found  that  the  sights 
had  been  knocked  on  one  side  a little,  and  this  created  a general 
laugh  at  all  in  turn,  doing  home  from  the  shooting,  I found  all 
the  villagers  bolting  again  with  their  cattle  and  stores,  and,  on 
looking  toward  Faloro,  saw  a party  of  Turks  coming. 

As  well  as  I could  I reassured  the  villagers,  and  brought  them 
back  again,  when  they  said  to  me,  “ Oh,  what  have  you  done  ? 
We  were  so  happy  yesterday  when  we  found  out  who  you  were, 
but  now  we  see  you  have  brought  those  men,  all  our  hearts  have 
sunk  again  ; for  they  beat’ ns,  they  make  us  carry  their  loads,  and 
they  rob  us  in  such  a manner  we  know  not  what  to  do.”  I told 
them  I would  protect  them  if  they  would  keep  quiet ; and,  when 
the  Turks  came,  I told  them  what  I had  said  to  the  head  man. 
They  were  the  vanguard  of  Mahamed’s  party,  and  said  they  had 
orders  to  march  on  as  far  as  Apuddo  with  me,  where  we  must  all 
stop  for  Mahamed,  who,  as  well  as  he  could,  was  collecting  men. 
There  was  a certain  tree  near  Apuddo  which  was  marked  by  an 
Englishman  two  years  ago,  and  this,  Mahamed  thought,  would 
keep  us  amused. 

The  next  march  brought  us  to  Paira,  a collection  of  villages 

within  sinht  of  the  Nile.  It  was  truly  ridiculous ; 

To  Paira,  13  th.  , , , . T.  , , J * ,, 

here  had  we  been  at  faloro  so  long,  and  yet  could 
not  make  out  what  had  become  of  the  Nile.  In  appearance  it 
was  a noble  stream,  flowing  on  a flat  bed  from  west  to  east,  and 
immediately  beyond  it  were  the  Jbl  (hills)  Kuku,  rising  up  to  a 
height  of  2000  feet  above  the  river.  Still  we  could  not  make  out 
all  until  the  following  day,  when  we  made  a march  parallel  to  the 
Nile,  and  arrived  at  Jaifi. 


534 


THE  SOURCE  OE  THE  NILE. 


[I860. 


The  Nile  and  Jbl  Kukfi. 

This  was  a collection  of  huts  close  to  a deep  nullah  which 
drains  the  central  portions  of  Eastern  Madi.  At  this 
place  the  Turks  killed  a crocodile  and  ate  him  on  the 
spot,  much  to  the  amusement  of  my  men,  who  immediately  shook 
their  heads  laughingly,  and  said,  “ Ewa,  Allah ! are  these  men, 
then,  Mussulmans  ? Savages  in  our  country  don’t  much  like  a 
crocodile.” 

After  crossing  two  nullahs  we  reached  Apuddo,  and  at  once  I 
went  to  see  the  tree  said  to  have  been  cut  by  an  En- 

To  Apuddo,  Vtih.  n*  1 x*  IP  mu  i 

glishman  some  time  before.  There,  sure  enough,  was 
a mark,  something  like  the  letters  M.  I.,  on  its  bark,  but  not  dis- 
tinct enough  to  be  ascertained,  because  the  bark  had  healed  up. 
In  describing  the  individual  who  had  done  this,  the  Turks  said 
he  was  exactly  like  myself,  for  he  had  a long  beard,  and  a voice 
even  much  resembling  mine.  lie  came  thus  far  with  Mahamed 
from  Gondokoro  two  years  ago,  and  then  returned,  because  he 
was  alarmed  at  the  accounts  the  people  gave  of  the  countries  to 
the  southward,  and  he  did  not  like  the  prospect  of  having  to  re- 
main a whole  rainy  season  with  Mahamed  at  Faloro.  He  knew 
we  were  endeavoring  to  come  this  way,  and  directed  Mahamed  to 
point  out  his  name  if  we  did  so. 

We  took  up  our  quarters  in  the  village  as  usual,  but  the  Turks 
remained  outside,  and  carried  off  all  the  tops  of  the  villagers’  huts 
to  make  a camp  for  themselves.  I rebuked  them  for  doing  so, 
but  was  mildly  told  they  had  no  huts  of  their  own.  They  car- 


Jan.] 


MADI. 


535 


ried  no  pots  either  for  cooking  their  dinners,  and  therefore  took 
from  the  villagers  all  that  they  wanted.  It  was  a fixed  custom 
now,  they  told  us,  and  there  was  no  use  in  our  trying  to  struggle 
against  it.  If  the  natives  were  wise,  they  would  make  enough  to 
sell ; but  as  they  would  not,  they  must  put  up  with  their  lot,  for 
the  “government”  can  not  be  balked  of  its  ivory.  Truly  there 
seemed  to  be  nothing  but  misery  here;  food  was  so  scarce  the 
villagers  sought  for  wild  berries  and  fruits,  while  the  Turks  help- 
ed themselves  out  of  their  half-filled  bins — a small  reserve  store 
to  last  up  to  the  far-distant  harvest.  Then,  to  make  matters 
worse,  all  the  village  chiefs  were  at  war  with  one  another. 

At  night  a party  of  warriors  walked  round  our  village,  but 
Halt,  isth  ana  feared  to  attack  it  because  we  were  inside.  JSText 
mh'  morning  the  villagers  turned  out  and  killed  two  of 

the  enemy;  but  the  rest,  while  retreating,  sang  out  that  they 
would  not  attempt  to  fight  until  “the  guns”  were  gone;  after 
that,  the  villagers  had  better  look  out  for  themselves.  I now  pro- 
posed going  on  if  the  apina,  or  chief  of  the  village,  would  give 
me  a guide ; but  he  feared  to  do  so  lest  I should  come  to  grief, 
and  Mahamed  would  then  be  down  upon  him.  Struggling  was 
useless,  for  I had  no  beads  to  pay  my  way  with,  and  my  cows 
were  now  all  finished  ; so  I took  the  matter  quietly,  and  went  out 
foraging  with  the  rifle. 

l&th,  and  19 th.  Antelopes  were  numerous,  but  so  wild  I could 
not  get  near  them.  On  bending  round  homeward,  however,  three 
buffaloes,  feeding  in  the  distance,  on  the  top  of  a roll  of  high 
ground  beyond  where  we  stood,  were  observed  by  the  natives, 
who  had  flocked  out  in  the  hopes  of  getting  flesh.  To  stalk  them, 
I went  up  wind  to  near  where  I expected  to  find  them ; then  bid- 
ding the  natives  lie  down,  I stole  along  through  the  grass  until  at 
last  I saw  three  pairs  of  horns  glistening  quite  close  in  front  of 
me.  Anxious  lest  they  should  take  sudden  fright,  I gently  raised 
myself,  wishing  to  fire,  but  I was  quite  puzzled ; there  was  no 
mistake  about  what  they  were  ; still,  look  from  as  high  as  I would, 
I could  not  see  their  bodies.  The  thought  never  struck  me  they 
were  lying  down  in  such  open  ground  in  the  daytime ; so,  as  I 
could  not  go  closer  without  driving  them  off,  I took  a shot  with 
my  single  rifle  at  where  I judged  the  chest  of  the  nearest  one 
ought  to  be,  and  then  discovered  my  error.  In  an  instant  all 
three  sprang  on  their  legs  and  scampered  off.  I began  loading, 
but  before  I had  half  accomplished  my  object,  those  three  had 


536 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1863. 


mingled  with  the  three  previously  seen  grazing,  and  all  six  to- 
gether came  charging  straight  at  me.  I really  thought  I should 
now  catch  a toss,  if  I were  not  trampled  to  death  ; but  suddenly, 
as  they  saw  me  standing,  whether  from  fear  or  what  else  I can 
not  say,  they  changed  their  ferocious -looking  design,  swerved 
round,  and  galloped  off  as  fast  as  their  legs  could  carry  them. 
This  was  bad  luck,  but  Grant  made  up  for  it  the  next  day  by  kill- 
ing a very  fine  buck  n’samma. 

2 Oth.  I went  again  after  the  herd  of  six  buffaloes,  as  I thought 
one  was  wbunded,  and  after  walking  up  a long  sloping  hill  for 
three  miles  toward  the  east,  I found  myself  at  once  in  view  of  the 
Nile  on  one  hand  and  the  long-heard-of  Asua  Eiver  on  the  other, 
backed  by  hills  even  higher  than  the  Jbl  Kiiku.  The  bed  of  the 
Asua  seemed  very  large,  but,  being  far  off,  was  not  very  distinct; 
nor  did  I care  to  go  and  see  it  then,  for  at  that  moment,  straight 
in  front  of  me,  five  buffaloes,  five  giraffes,  two  eland,  and  sundry 
other  antelopes,  were  too  strong  a temptation. 

The  place  looked  like  a park,  and  I began  stalking  in  it,  first 
at  the  eland,  as  I wanted  to  see  if  they  corresponded  with  those 
I shot  in  Usagara ; but  the  gawky  giraffes,  always  in  the  way, 
gave  the  alarm,  and  drove  all  but  two  of  the  buffaloes  away.  At 
these  two  I now  went  with  my  only  rifle,  leaving  the  servants 
and  savages  behind.  They  were  out  in  the  open  grass  feeding 
composedly,  so  that  I stole  up  to  within  forty  yards  of  them,  and 
then,  in  a small  naked  patch  of  ground,  I waited  my  opportunity, 
and  put  a ball  behind  the  shoulder  of  the  larger  one.  At  the 
sound  of  the  gun,  in  an  instant  both  bulls  charged,  but  they  pull- 
ed up  in  the  same  naked  ground  as  myself,  sniffing  and  tossing 
their  horns  while  looking  out  for  their  antagonist,  who,  as  quick 
as  themselves,  had  thrown  himself  flat  on  the  ground. 

There  we  were,  like  three  fools,  for  twenty  minutes  or  so;  one 
of  the  buffaloes  bleeding  at  the  mouth  and  with  a broken  hind 
leg,  for  the  bullet  had  traversed  his  body,  and  the  other  turning 
round  and  round,  looking  out  for  me,  while  I was  anxiously 
watching  him,  and  by  degrees  loading  my  gun.  When  ready,  I 
tried  a shot  at  the  sound  one,  but  the  cap  snapped  and  nearly  be- 
trayed me,  for  they  both  stared  at  the  spot  where  I lay ; the  sound 
one  sniffing  the  air  and  tossing  his  horns,  but  the  other  bleeding 
considerably.  Some  minutes  more  passed  in  this  manner,  when 
they  allowed  me  to  breathe  freer  by  walking  away.  I followed, 
of  course,  but  could  not  get  a good  chance ; so,  as  the  night  set  in, 


MADI. 


Jan.] 


537 


I let  them  alone  for  the  time  being,  to  get  out  the  following  morn- 
ing. 

21  st  and  22c?.  At  the  place  where  I left  off,  I now  sprang  a large 
herd  of  fifty  or  more  buffalo.es,  and  followed  them  for  a mile,  when 
the  wounded  one,  quite  exhausted  from  the  fatigue,  pulled  up  for 
a charge,  and  allowed  me  to  knock  him  over.  This  was  glorious 
fun  for  the  villagers,  who  cut  him  up  on  the  spot  and  brought 
him  home.  Of  course,  one  half  the  flesh  was  given  to  them,'  in 
return  for  which  they  brought  us  some  small  delicacies  to  show 
their  gratitude ; for,  as  they  truly  remarked,  until  we  came  to 
their  village  they  never  knew  what  it  was  to  get  a present,  or  any 
other  gift  but  a good  thrashing. 

23c?.  To-day  I tried  the  ground  again,  and,  while  walking  up 
the  hill,  two  black  rhinoceros  came  trotting  toward  us  in  a very 
excited  manner.  I did  not  wish  to  fire  at  them,  as  what  few  bul- 
lets remained  in  my  store  I wished  to  reserve  for  better  sport, 
and  therefore,  for  the  time  being,  let  them  alone.  Presently,  how- 
ever, they  separated ; one  passed  in  front  of  us,  stopped  to  drink 
in  a pool,  and  then  lay  down  in  it.  Not  heeding  him,  I walked 
up  the  hill,  while  the  other  rhinoceros,  still  trotting,  suddenly 
turned  round  and  came  to  drink  within  fifty  yards  of  us,  obstruct- 
ing my  path;  this  was  too  much  of  a joke;  so,  to  save  time,  I 
gave  him  a bullet,  and  knocked  him  over.  To  my  surprise,  the 
natives  who  were  with  me  would  not  touch  his  flesh,  though 
pressed  by  me  to  “n’yam  n’yam,”  or  to  eat.  I found  that  they 
considered  him  an  unclean  beast ; so,  regretting  I had  wasted  my 
bullet,  I went  farther  on  and  startled  some  buffaloes. 

Though  I got  very  near  them,  however,  a small  antelope  spring- 
ing up  in  front  of  me  scared  them  away,  and  I could  not  get  a 
front  shot  at  any  of  them.  Thus  the  whole  day  was  thrown  away, 
for  I had  to  return  empty-handed. 

2H7i  to  30A  Grant  and  I,  after  this,  kept  our  pot  boiling  Iqv 
shooting  three  more  antelopes;  but  nothing  of  consequence  tran- 
spired until  the  30th,  when  Bukhet,  Mahamed’s  factotum,  arrived 
with  the  greater  part  of  the  Turk’s  property.  He  then  confirmed 
a report  we  had  heard  before,  that,  some  few  days  previous!}^ 
Mahamed  had  ordered  Bukhet  to  go  ahead  and  join  us,  which  he 
attempted  to  do ; but,  on  arrival  at  Panyoro,  his  party  had  a row 
with  the  villagers,  and  lost  their  property.  Bukhet  then  returned 
to  Mahamed  and  reported  his  defeat  and  losses;  upon  hearing 
which,  Mahamed  at  once  said  to  him,  “ What  do  you  mean  by  re- 


538 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1863. 


turning  to  me  empty-handed  ? Go  back  at  once  and  recover  your 
things,  else  how  can  I make  my  report  at  Gondokoro?”  With 
these  peremptory  orders  Bukhet  went  back  to  Panyoro,  and  com- 
menced to  attack  it.  The  contest  did  not  last  long;  for,  after 
three  of  Bukhet’s  men  had  been  wounded,  he  set  fire  to  the  vil- 
lages, killed  fifteen  of  the  natives,  and,  besides  recovering  his  own 
lost  property,  took  one  hundred  cows. 

olsi.  To-day  Mahamed  came  in,  and  commenced  to  arrange  for 
the  march  onward.  This,  however,  was  no  easy  matter,  for  the 
Turks  alone  required  six  hundred  porters — half  that  number  to 
carry  their  ivory,  and  the  other  half  to  carry  their  beds  and  bed- 
ding ; while  from  fifty  to  sixty  men  was  the  most  a village  had  to 
spare,  and  all  the  village  chiefs  were  at  enmity  with  one  another. 
The  plan  adopted  by  Mahamed  was  to  summon  the  heads  of  all 
the  villages  to  come  to  him,  failing  which  he  would  seize  all  their 
belongings.  Then,  having  once  got  them  together,  he  ordered 
them  all  to  furnish  him  with  so  many  porters  a head,  saying  he 
demanded  it  of  them,  for  the  “ great  government’s  property”  could 
not  be  left  on  the  ground.  Their  separate  interests  must  now  be 
sacrificed,  and  their  feuds  suspended ; and  if  he  heard,  on  his  re- 
turn again,  that  one  village  had  taken  advantage  of  the  other’s 
weakness  caused  by  their  employment  in  his  service,  he  would 
then  not  spare  his  bullets,  so  they  might  look  out  for  themselves. 

Some  of  the  Turks,  having  found  ninety-nine  eggs  in  a croco- 
dile’s nest,  had  a grand  feast.  They  gave  us  two  of  the  eggs, 
which  we  ate,  but  did  not  like,  for  they  had  a highly  musky 
flavor. 

IsL  On  the  1st  of  February  we  went  ahead  again,  with  Bukhet 
and  the  first  half  of  Mahamed’s  establishment,  as  a sufficient  num- 
ber of  men  could  not  be  collected  at  once  to  move  altogether.  In 
a little  while  we  struck  on  the  Nile,  where  it  was  running  like  a 
fine  Highland  stream  between  the  gneiss  and  mica-schist  hills  of 
Kukri,  and  followed  it  down  to  near  where  the  Asiia  Biver  joined 
it.  For  a while  we  sat  here  watching  the  water,  which  was  great- 
ly discolored,  and  floating  down  rushes.  The  river  was  not  as 
full  as  it  was  when  we  crossed  it  at  the  Karuma  Falls,  yet,  accord- 
ing to  Dr.  Khoblecher’s*  account,  it  ought  to  have  been  flooding 
just  at  this  time;  if  so,  we  had  beaten  the  stream.  Here  we  left 

* Dr.  Khoblecher,  the  founder  of  the  Austrian  Church  Mission  Establishment  of 
Gondokoro,  ascertained  that  the  Nile  reached  its  lowest  level  there  in  the  middle 
of  January. 


Feb.] 


MAPI. 


539 


it  again  as  it  arched  round  by  the  west,  and  forded  the  Asiia 
River,  a stiff  rocky  stream,  deep  enough  to  reach  the  breast  when 
waded,  but  not  very  broad.  It  did  not  appear  to  me  as  if  con- 
nected with  the  Victoria  N’yanza,  as  the  waters  were  falling,  and 
not  much  discolored ; whereas,  judging  from  the  Nile’s  condition, 
it  ought  to  have  been  rising.  No  vessel  ever  could  have  gone 
up  it,  and  it  bore  no  comparison  with  the  Nile  itself.  The  exag- 
gerated account  of  its  volume,  however,  given  by  the  expedition- 
ists who  were  sent  up  the  Nile  by  Mehemet  Ali,  did  not  surprise 
us,  since  they  had  mistaken  its  position ; for  we  were  now  3°  42' 
north,  and  therefore  had  passed  their  “ farthest  point”  by  twenty 
miles. 

In  two  hours  more  we  reached  a settlement  called  Madi,  and 
found  it  deserted.  Every  man  and  woman  had  run  off  into  the 
jungles  from  fright,  and  would  not  come  back  again.  We  wish- 
ed ourselves  at  the  end  of  the  journey ; thought  any  thing  better 
than  this  kind  of  existence — living  entirely  at  the  expense  of 
others ; even  the  fleecings  in  Usui  felt  less  dispiriting;  but  it  could 
not  be  helped,  for  it  must  always  exist  as  long  as  these  Turks  are 
allowed  to  ride  roughshod  over  the  people.  The  Turks,  however, 
had  their  losses  also ; for  on  the  way  four  Bari  men  and  one  Bari 
slave-girl  slipped  off  with  a hundred  of  their  plundered  cattle,  and 
neither  they  nor  the  cattle  could  be  found  again.  Mijalwa  was 
here  convicted  of  having  stolen  the  cloth  of  a Turk  while  living 
in  his  hut  when  he  was  away  at  the  Paira  plundering,  and  got 
fifty  lashes  to  teach  him  better  behavior  for  the  future. 

A party  of  fifty  men  came  from  Labure,  a station  on  ahead  of 
this,  to  take  service  as  porters,  knowing  that  at  this 

Halt,  3d  to  5th.  ° 

season  the  Turks  always  come  with  a large  herd  oi 
plundered  cattle,  which  they  call  government  property,  and  give 
in  payment  to  the  men  who  carry  their  tusks  of  ivory  across  the 
Bari  country. 

We  now  marched  over  a rolling  ground,  covered  in  some 
places  with  bush-iungle,  in  others  with  villages,  where 

Banrudl,  6th ; r J ° ’ . ° ’. 

and  Labure,  itk  there  were  fine  trees,  resembling  oaks  m their  out- 

and  8ft.  ’ . & . . , 

ward  appearance;  and  stopping  one  night  at  the 
settlement  of  Barwudi,  arrived  at  Labure,  where  we  had  to  halt 
a day  for  Mahamed  to  collect  some  ivory  from  a depot  he  had 
formed  near  by.  We  heard  there  was  another  ivory  party  col- 
lecting tusks  at  Obbo,  a settlement  in  the  country  of  Panuquara, 
twenty  miles  east  of  this. 


540 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  N]LE. 


[18G3. 


Next  we  crossed  a nullah  draining  into  the  Nile,  and,  travel- 
ing over  more  rolling  ground,  flanked  on  the  right 

To Mugi, 9th.  ° . „ _ ° 6 

Halt,  io th  ana  by  a range  of  small  hills,  put  up  at  the  Madi  frontier 

station,  Mugi,  where  we  had  to  halt  two  days  to  col- 
lect a full  complement  of  porters  to  traverse  the  Bari  country, 
the  people  of  which  are  denounced  as  barbarians  by  the  Turks, 
because  they  will  not  submit  to  be  bullied  into  carrying  their 
tusks  for  them.  Here  we  felt  an  earthquake.  The  people  would 
not  take  beads,  preferring,  they  said,  to  make  necklaces  and  belts 
out  of  ostrich  eggs,  which  they  cut  into  the  size  of  small  shirt- 
buttons,  and  then  drill  a hole  through  their  centre  to  string  them 
together.  A passenger  told  us  that  three  white  men  had  just  ar- 
rived in  vessels  at  Gondokoro ; and  the  Bari  people,  hearing  of 
our  advance,  instead  of  trying  to  kill  us  with  spears,  had  determ- 
ined to  poison  all  the  water  in  their  country.  Mahamed  now 
disposed  of  half  of  his  herd  of  cows,  giving  them  to  the  chiefs  of 
the  villages  in  return  for  porters.  These,  he  said,  were  all  that 
belonged  to  the  government ; for  the  half  of  all  captures  of  cows, 
as  well  as  all  slaves,  all  goats,  and  sheep,  were  allowed  to  the 
men  as  part  of  their  pay. 

When  all  was  settled,  we  marched,  one  thousand  strong,  to 
Wurungi ; and  next  day,  by  a double  march,  arrived 
mh.  ' at  Marsan,  in  the  Bari  country.  I wished  still  to  put 

To  Marsan,  IZth.  . . , J t . 

up  m the  native  villages,  but  Mahamed  so  terrified 
all  my  men,  by  saying  these  Bari  would  kill  us  in  the  night  if 
we  did  not  all  sleep  together  in  one  large  camp,  that  we  were 
obliged  to  submit.  The  country,  still  flanked  on  the  right  by 
hills,  was  undulating  and  very  prettily  wooded.  Villages  were 
numerous,  but  as  we  passed  them  the  inhabitants  all  fled  from  us 
save  a few  men,  who,  bolder  than  the  rest,  would  stand  and  look 
on  at  us  as  we  marched  along.  Both  night  and  morning  the 
Turks  beat  their  drums,  and  whenever  they  stopped  to  eat  they 
sacked  the  villages. 

Pushing  on  by  degrees,  stopping  at  noon  to  eat,  we  came  again 
in  sight  of  the  Nile,  and  put  up  at  a station  called 

To  Doro,  lith.  ° . ' . 1 £ 

Boro,  within  a short  distance  oi  the  well-known  hill 
Rijeb,  where  Nile  voyagers  delight  in  cutting  their  names.  The 
country  continued  the  same,  but  the  grass  was  conspicuously  be- 
coming shorter  and  finer  every  day ; so  much  so,  that  my  men 
all  declared  it  was  a sign  of  our  near  approach  to  England.  After 
we  had  settled  down  for  the  night,  and  the  Turks  had  finished 


Feb.] 


MADI. 


541 


one  half  broken  down,  with  a brick-built  house  representing  the 
late  Austrian  Church  Mission  establishment — we  saw  hurrying 


plundering  the  nearest  villages,  we  heard  two  guns  fired,  and  im- 
mediately afterward  the  whole  plate  was  alive  with  Bari  people. 
Their  drums  were  beaten  as  a sign  that  they  would  attack  us, 
and  the  war-drums  of  the  villages  around  responded  by  beating 
also.  The  Turks  grew  somewhat  alarmed  at  this,  and  as  dark- 
ness began  to  set  in,  sent  out  patrols  in  addition  to  their  nightly 
watches.  The  savages  next  tried  to  steal  in  on  us,  but  were  soon 
frightened  off  by  the  patrols  cocking  their  guns.  Then,  seeing 
themselves  defeated  in  that  tactic,  they  collected  in  hundreds  in 
front  of  us,  set  fire  to  the  grass,  and  marched  up  and  down,  bran- 
dishing ignited  grass  in  their  hands,  howling  like  demons,  and 
swearing  they  would  annihilate  us  in  the  morning. 

We  slept  the  night  out,  nevertheless,  and  next  morning  walked 
to  Gondokoro,  in  to  Gondokoro,  1ST.  lat.  4°  54'  5",  and  E.  long.  31° 
15Wi-  46'  9",  where  Mahamed,  after  firing  a salute,  took  us 

in  to  see  a Circassian  merchant,  named  Kursk  id' Agha.  Our  first 
inquiry  was,  of  course,  for  Petherick.  A mysterious  silence  en- 
sued ; we  were  informed  that  Mr.  Debono  was  the  man  we  had  to 
thank  for  the  assistance  we  had  received  in  comine;  from  Madi ; 
and  then  in  hot  haste,  after  warm  exchanges  of  greeting  with  Ma- 
hamed’s  friend,  who  was  Debono’s  agent  here,  we  took  leave,  to 
hunt  up  Petherick.  Walking  down  the  bank  of  the  river — where 
a line  of  vessels  was  moored,  and  on  the  right  hand  a few  sheds, 


Mission  House,  Gondokoro. 


542 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1863. 


on  toward  us  the  form  of  an  Englishman,  who  for  one  moment 
we  believed  was  the  Simon  Pure ; but  the  next  moment  my  old 
friend  Baker,  famed  for  his  sports  in  Ceylon,  seized  me  by  the 
hand.  A little  boy  of  his  establishment  had  reported  our  arrival, 
and  he  in  an  instant  came  out  to  welcome  us.  What  joy  this 
was  I can  hardly  tell.  We  could  not  talk  fast  enough,  so  over- 
whelmed were  we  both  to  meet  again.  Of  course  we  were  his 
guests  in  a moment,  and  learned  every  thing  that  could  be  told. 
I now  first  heard  of  the  death  of  H.  R.  H.  the  Prince  Consort, 
which  made  me  reflect  on  the  inspiring  words  he  made  use  of,  in 
compliment  to  myself,  when  I was  introduced  to  him  by  Sir  Rod- 
erick Murchison  a short  while  before  leaving  England.  Then 
there  was  the  terrible  war  in  America,  and  other  events  of  less 
startling  nature,  which  came  on  us  all  by  surprise,  as  years  had 
now  passed  since  we  had  received  news  from  the  civilized  world. 

Baker  then  said'he  had  come  up  with  three  vessels — one  dyabir 
and  two  nuggers — fully  equipped  with  armed  men,  camels,  horses, 
donkeys,  beads,  brass  wire,  and  every  thing  necessary  for  a long 
journey,  expressly  to  look  after  us,  hoping,  as  he  jokingly  said, 
to  find  us  on  the  equator  in  some  terrible  fix,  that  he  might  have 
the  pleasure  of  helping  us  out  of  it.  He  had  heard  of  Mahamed’s 
party,  and  was  actually  waiting  for  him  to  come  in,  that  he  might 
have  had  the  use  of  his  return-men  to  start  with  comfortably. 
Three  Dutch  ladies,*  also,  with  a view  to  assist  us  in  the  same 
way  as  Baker  (God  bless  them),  had  come  here  in  a steamer,  but 
were  driven  back  to  Khartum  by  sickness.  Nobody  had  even 
dreamed  for  a moment  it  was  possible  we  could  come  through. 
An  Italian,  named  Miani,  had  gone  farther  up  the  Kile  than  any 
one  else ; and  he,  it  now  transpired,  was  the  man  who  had  cut  his 
name  on  the  tree  by  Apuddo.  But  what  had  become  of  Peth- 
erick  ? He  was  actually  trading  at  K’yambara,  seventy  miles  due 
west  of  this,  though  he  had,  since  I left  him  in  England,  raised  a 
subscription  of  £1000  from  those  of  my  friends  to  whom  this 
Journal  is  most  respectfully  dedicated  as  the  smallest  return  a 
grateful  heart  can  give  for  their  attempt  to  succor  me,  when  know- 
ing the  fate  of  the  expedition  was  in  great  jeopardy. 

Instead  of  coming  up  the  Kile  at  once,  as  Petherick  might  have 
done — so  I was  assured — he-waited,  while  a vessel  was  building, 
until  the  season  had  too  far  advanced  to  enable  him  to  sail  up  the 
river.  In  short,  he  lost  the  north  winds  at  7°  north,  and  went 

* The  Baroness  Miss  A.  van  Capellan,  and  Mrs.  and  Miss  Tinne. 


Feb.] 


MADI. 


543 


overland  to  Iris  trading  depot  at  N’yambara.  Previously,  howev- 
er, he  had  sent  some  boats  up  to  this,  under  a vakil,  who  had  his 
orders  to  cross  to  his  trading  depot  at  N’yambara,  and  to  work 
from  his  trading  station  due  south,  ostensibly  with  a view  to  look 
after  me,  though  contrary  to  my  advice  before  leaving  him  in 
England,  in  opposition  to  his  own  proposed  views  of  assisting  me 
when  he  applied  for  help  to  succor  me,  and  against  the  strongly 
expressed  opinions  of  every  European  in  the  same  trade  as  him- 
self ; for  all  alike  said  they  knew  he  would  have  gone  to  Faloro, 
and  pushed  south  from  that  place,  had  his  trade  on  the  west  of 
the  ISTile  not  attracted  him  there. 

Baker  now  offered  me  his  boats  to  go  down  to  Khartum,  and 
asked  me  if  there  was  any  thing  left  undone  which  it  might  be 
of  importance  for  him  to  go  on  and  complete,  by  survey  or  other- 
wise ; for,  although  he  should  like  to  go  down  the  river  with  us, 
he  did  not  wish  to  return  home  without  having  done  something 
to  recompense  him  for  the  trouble  and  expense  he  had  incurred 
in  getting  up  his  large  expedition.  Of  course  I told  him  how  dis- 
appointed I had  been  in  not  getting  a sight  of  the  Little  Luta 
Nzige.  I described  how  we  had  seen  the  Nile  bending  west 
where  we  crossed  in  Chopi,  and  then,  after  walking  down  the 
chord  of  an  arc  described  by  the  river,  had  found  it  again  in 
Madi  coming  from  the  west,  whence  to  the  south,  and  as  far  at 
least  as  Koshi,  it  was  said  to  be  navigable,  probably  continuing 
to  be  so  right  into  the  Little  Luta  Nzige.  Should  this  be  the 
case,  then,  by  building  boats  in  Madi  above  the  cataracts,  a vast 
region  might  be  thrown  open  to  the  improving  influences  of  nav- 
igation. Farther,  I told  Baker  of  my  contract  with  Kamrasi,  and 
of  the  property  I had  left  behind,  with  a view  to  stimulate  any 
enterprising  man  who  might  be  found  at  this  place  to  go  there, 
make  good  my  promise,  and,  if  found  needful,  claim  my  share  of 
the  things,  for  the  better  prosecution  of  his  own  travels  there. 
This  Baker  at  once  undertook,  though  he  said  he  did  not  want 
my  property;  and  I drew  out  suggestions  for  him  how  to  proceed. 
He  then  made  friends  with  Mahamed,  who  promised  to  help  him 
on  to  Faloro,  and  I gave  Mahamed  and  his  men  three  carbines  as 
an  honorarium. 

I should  now  have  gone  down  the  Nile  at  once  if  the  moon  had 
been  in  “ distance”  for  fixing  the  longitude;  but  as  it  was  not,  I 
had  to  remain  until  the  26th,  living  with  Baker.  Kurskid  Agha 
became  very  great  friends  with  us,  and,  at  once  making  a present 


544 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1863. 


of  a turkey,  a case  of  wine,  and  cigars,  said  he  was  only  sorry  for 
his  own  sake  that  we  had  found  a fellow-countryman,  else  lie 
would  have  had  the  envied  lionor  of  claiming  us  as  bis  guests, 
and  had  the  pleasure  of  transporting  us  in  his  vessels  down  to 
Khartum. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Moorlan,  and  two  other  priests  of  the  Austrian 
Mission,  were  here  on  a visit  from  their  station  at  Kich,  to  see 
the  old  place  again  before  they  left  for  Khartum ; for  the  Aus- 
trian government,  discouraged  by  the  failure  of  so  many  years, 
had  ordered  the  recall  of  the  whole  of  the  establishment  for  these 
regions.  It  was  no  wonder  these  men  were  recalled;  for,  out  of 
twenty  missionaries  who,  during  the  last  thirteen  years,  had  as- 
cended the  White  River  for  the  purpose  of  propagating  the  Gos- 
pel, thirteen  had  died  of  fever,  two  of  dysentery,  and  two  had  re- 
tired broken  in  health,  yet  not  one  convert  had  been  made  by 
them. 

The  fact  is,  there  was  no  government  to  control  the  population 
or  to  protect  property;  boys  came  to  them,  looked  at  their  pic- 
tures, and  even  showed  a disposition  to  be  instructed,  but  there  it 
ended ; they  had  no  heart  to  study  when  no  visible  returns  were 
to  be  gained.  One  day  the  people  would  examine  the  books,  at 
another  throw  them  aside,  say  their  stomachs  were  empty,  and 
run  away  to  look  for  food.  The  Bari  people  at  Gondokoro  were 
described  as  being  more  tractable  than  those  of  Kich,  being  of  a 
braver  and  more  noble  nature ; but  they  were  all  half  starved— 
not  because  the  country  was  too  poor  to  produce,  but  because  they 
were  too  lazy  to  cultivate.  What  little  corn  they  grew  they  con- 
sumed before  it  was  fully  ripe,  and  then  either  sought  for  fish  in 
the  river  or  fed  on  tortoises  in  the  interior,  as  they  feared  they 
might  never  reap  what  they  sowed. 

The  missionaries  never  had  occasion  to  complain  of  these  blacks, 
and  to  this  day  they  would  doubtless  have  been  kindly  inclined 
toward  Europeans,  had  the  White  Kile  traders  not  brought  the 
devil  among  them.  Mr.  Moorlan  remembers  the  time  when  they 
brought  food  for  sale ; but  now,  instead,  they  turn  their  backs 
upon  all  foreigners,  and  even  abuse  the  missionaries  for  having 
been  the  precursors  of  such  dire  calamities.  The  shell  of  the 
brick  church  at  Gondokoro,  and  the  cross  on  the  top  of  a native- 
built  hut  in  Kich,  are  all  that  will  remain  to  bear  testimony  of 
these  Christian  exertions  to  improve  the  condition  of  these  hea- 
thens. Want  of  employment,  I heard,  was  the  chief  operative 


Feb.] 


MADI. 


545 


cause  in  killing  the  poor  missionaries ; for,  -with,  no  other  resource 
left  them  to  kill  time,  they  spent  their  days  eating,  drinking, 
smoking,  and  sleeping,  till  they  broke  down  their  constitutions 
by  living  too  fast. 

Mr.  Moorlan  became  very  friendly,  and  said  he  was  sorry  he 
could  not  do  more  for  us.  His  head-quarters  were  at  Kich,  some 
way  down  the  river,  where,  as  we  passed,  he  hoped  at  least  he 
might  be  able  to  show  us  as  much  attention  and  hospitality  as  lay 
in  his  power.  Musquitoes  were  said  to  be  extremely  troublesome 
on  the  river,  and  my  men  begged  for  some  clothes,  as  Petherick, 
they  said,  had  a store  for  me  under  the  charge  of  his  vakil.  The 
store-keeper  was  then  called,  and  confirming  the  story  of  my  men, 
I begged  him  to  give  me  what  was  my  own.  It  then  turned  out 
that  it  was  all  Petherick’s,  but  he  had  orders  to  give  me  on  ac- 
count any  thing  that  I wanted.  This  being  settled,  I took  ninety- 
five  yards  of  the  commonest  stuff  as  a makeshift  for  musquito- 
curtains  for  my  men,  besides  four  sailor’s  shirts  for  my  head  men. 

On  the  18th,  Kurshid  Agha  was  summoned  by  the  constant  fire 
of  musketry  a mile  or  two  down  the  river,  and  went  off  in  his 
vessels  to  the  relief.  A party  ©f  his  had  come  across  from  the 
N’yambara  country  with  ivory,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  a 
few  miles  north  of  this,  were  engaged  fighting  with  the  natives. 
He  arrived  just  in  time  to  settle  the  difficulty,  and  next  day  came 
back  again,  having  shot  some  of  the  enemy  and  captured  their 
cows.  Petherick,  we  heard,  was  in  a difficulty  of  the  same  kind, 
upon  which  I proposed  to  go  down  with  Baker  and  Grant  to  suc- 
cor him ; but  he  arrived  in  time,  in  company  with  his  wife  and 
Dr.  James  Murie,  to  save  us  the  trouble,  and  told  me  he  had 
brought  a number  of  men  with  him,  carrying  ivory,  for  the  pur- 
pose now  of  looking  after  me  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Nile,  by  fol- 
lowing its  course  up  to  the  south,  though  he  had  given  up  all 
hope  of  seeing  me,  as  a report  had  reached  him  of  the  desertion 
of  my  porters  at  Hgogo.  He  then  offered  me  his  dyabir,  as  well 
as  any  thing  else  that  I wanted  that  lay  within  his  power  to  give. 
Suffice  it  to  say,  I had,  through  Baker’s  generosity,  at  that  very 
moment  enough  and  to  spare ; but,  at  his  urgent  request,  I took 
a few  more  yards  of  cloth  for  my  men,  and  some  cooking  fat; 
and,  though  I offered  to  pay  for  it,  he  declined  to  accept  any  re- 
turn at  my  hands. 

Though  I naturally  felt  much  annoyed  at  Petherick — for  I had 
hurried  away  from  Uganda,  and  separated  from  Grant  at  Kari 

M M 


546 


THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  NILE. 


[1863. 


solely  to  keep  faith  with  him — I did  not  wish  to  break  friendship, 
but  dined  and  conversed  with  him,  when  it  transpired  that  his 
vakil,  or  agent,  who  went  south  from  the  N’yambara  station,  came 
among  the  N’yam  N’yams,  and  heard  from  them  that  a large  river, 
four  days’  journey  more  to  the  southward,  was  flowing  from  east 
to  west,  beyond  which  lived  a tribe  of  “ women,”  who,  when  they 
wanted  to  marry,  mingled  with  them  in  the  stream  and  returned ; 
and  then,  again,  beyond  this  tribe  of  women  there  lived  another 
tribe  of  women  and  dogs.  Now  this  may  all  seem  a very  strange 
story  to  those  who  do  not  know  the  negro’s  and  Arab’s  modes  of 
expression,  but  to  me  it  at  once  came  very  natural,  and,  according 
to  my  view,  could  be  interpreted  thus:  The  river,  running  from 
east  to  west,  according  to  the  native  mode  of  expressing  direction, 
could  be  nothing  but  the  Little  Luta  Nzige  running  the  opposite 
way,  according  to  fact  and  our  mode  of  expression.  The  first 
tribe  of  women  were  doubtless  the  Wanyoro,  called  women  by 
the  naked  tribes  on  this  side  because  they  wear  bark  coverings — 
an  effeminate  appendage,  in  the  naked  man’s  estimation ; and  the 
second  tribe  must  have  been  in  allusion  to  the  dog-keeping  Wa- 
ganda,  who  also  would  be  considered  women,  as  they  wear  bark 
clothes.  In  my  turn,  I told  Petherick  he  had  missed  a good  thing 
by  not  going  up  the  river  to  look  for  me ; for,  had  he  done  so,  he 
would  not  only  have  had  the  best  ivory-grounds  to  work  upon, 
but,  by  building  a vessel  in  Madi  above  the  cataracts,  he  would 
have  had,  in  my  belief,  some  hundred  miles  of  navigable  water  to 


The  Nile  below  the  Junction  of  the  Asua  River. 


Feb.] 


MADI. 


547 


transport  his  merchandise.  In  short,  his  succoring  petition  was 
most  admirably  framed,  had  he  stuck  to  it,  for  the  welfare  of  both 
of  us.* 

We  now  received  our  first  letters  from  home,  and  in  one  from 
Sir  Roderick  Murchison  I found  the  Royal  Geographical  Society 
had  awarded  me  their  “ founder’s  medal”  for  the  discovery  of  the 
Yictoria  N’yanza  in  1858. 

* See  Petherick’s  succoring  petition,  addressed  to  the  Right  Hon.  Lord  Ashbur- 
ton, President  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  in  the  Proceedings  of  that  Society, 
dated  the  19th  of  June,  1860. 


548 


SOURCES  OF  THE  NILE. 


CONCLUSION. 

My  journey  down  to  Alexandria  was  not  without  adventure, 
and  carried  me  through  scenes  which,  in  other  circumstances,  it 
might  have  been  worth  while  to  describe.  Thinking,  however, 
that  I have  already  sufficiently  trespassed  on  the  patience  of  the 
reader,  I am  unwilling  to  overload  my  volume  with  any  matter 
that  does  not  directly  relate  to  the  solution  of  the  great  problem 
which  I went  to  solve.  Having  now,  then,  after  a period  of  twen- 
ty-eight months,  come  upon  the  tracks  of  European  travelers,  and 
met  them  face  to  face,  I close  my  Journal,  to  conclude  with  a few 
explanations,  for  the  purpose  of  comparing  the  various  branches 
of  the  Nile  with  its  affluents,  so  as  to  show  their  respective  values. 

The  first  affluent,  the  Bahr  el  Ghazal,  took  us  by  surprise ; for, 
instead  of  finding  a huge  lake,  as  described  in  our  maps,  at  an 
elbow  of  the  Nile,  we  found  only  a small  piece  of  water  resem- 
bling a duck-pond  buried  in  a sea  of  rushes.  The  old  Nile  swept 
through  it  with  majestic  grace,  and  carried  us  next  to  the  Gferaffe 
branch  of  the  Sobat  River,  the  second  affluent,  which  we  found 
flowing  into  the  Nile  with  a graceful  semicircular  sweep  and  good 
stiff  current,  apparently  deep,  but  not  more  than  fifty  yards  broad. 

Next  in  order  came  the  main  stream  of  the  Sobat,  flowing  into 
the  Nile  in  the  same  graceful  way  as  the  Geraffe,  which  in  breadth 
it  surpassed,  but  in  velocity  of  current  was  inferior.  The  Nile  by 
these  additions  was  greatly  increased  ; still,  it  did  not  assume  that 
noble  appearance  which  astonished  us  so  much,  immediately  after 
the  rainy  season , when  we  were  navigating  it  in  canoes  in  Unyoro. 

I here  took  my  last  lunar  observations,  and  made  its  mouth  N. 
lat.  9°  20'  48",  E.  long.  31°  24'  0".  The  Sobat  has  a third  mouth 
farther  down  the  Nile,  which  unfortunately  was  passed  without 
my  knowing  it ; but  as  it  is  so  well  known  to  be  unimportant,  the 
loss  was  not  great. 

Next  to  be  treated  of  is  the  famous  Blue  Nile,  which  we  found 
a miserable  river,  even  when  compared  with  the  Geraffe  branch 
of  the  Sobat.  It  is  very  broad  at  the  mouth,  it  is  true,  but  so 
shallow  that  our  vessel  with  difficulty  was  able  to  come  up  it.  It 
had  all  the  appearance  of  a mountain  stream,  subject  to  great  pe- 


SPEKF.'S  FAITHFULS. 


CONCLUSION. 


551 


nodical  fluctuations.  I was  never  more  disappointed  than  with 
this  river;  if  the  White  River  was  cut  off  from  it,  its  waters 
would  all  be  absorbed  before  they  could  reach  Lower  Egypt. 

The  Atbara  River,  which  is  the  last  affluent,  was  more  like  the 
Blue  River  than  any  of  the  other  affluents,  being  decidedly  a 
mountain  stream,  which  floods  in  the  rains,  but  runs  nearly  dry  in 
the  dry  season. 

I had  now  seen  quite  enough  to  satisfy  myself  that  the  White 
River  which  issues  from  the  ISPyanza  at  tire  Ripon  Falls  is  the 
true  or  parent  Nile ; for  in  every  instance  of  its  branching,  it  car- 
ried the  palm  with  it  in  the  distinctest  manner,  viewed,  as  all  the 
streams  were  by  me,  in  the  dry  season,  which  is  the  best  time  for 
estimating  their  relative  perennial  values. 

Since  returning  to  England,  Dr.  Murie,  who  was  with  me  at 
Gondokoro,  has  also  come  home;  and  he,  judging  from  my  ac- 
count of  the  way  in  which  we  got  ahead  of  the  flooding  of  the 
Nile  between  the  Karuma  Falls  and  Gondokoro,  is  of  opinion  that 
the  Little  Luta  Nzige  must  be  a great  backwater  to  the  Nile, 
which  the  waters  of  the  Nile  must  have  been  occupied  in  filling 
during  my  residence  in  Madi ; and  then  about  the  same  time  that 
I set  out  from  Madi,  the  Little  Luta  Nzige  having  been  surcharged 
with  water,  the  surplus  began  its  march  northward  just  about  the 
time  when  we  started  in  the  same  direction.  For  myself,  I be- 
lieve in  this  opinion,  as  he  no  sooner  asked  me  how  I could  ac- 
count for  the  phenomenon  I have,  already  mentioned  of  the  river 
appearing  to  decrease  in  bulk  as  we  descended  it,  than  I instinct- 
ively advanced  his  own  theory.  Moreover,  the  same  hypothesis 
will  answer  for  the  sluggish  flooding  of  the  Nile  down  to  Egypt. 

I hope  the  reader  who  has  followed  my  narrative  thus  far  will 
be  interested  in  knowing  how  “my  faithful  children,”  for  whose 
services  I had  no  farther  occasion,  and  whom  I had  taken  so  far 
from  their  own  country,  were  disposed  of.  At  Cairo,  where  we 
put  up  in  Shepherd’s  Hotel,  I had  the  whole  of  them  photograph- 
ed, and  indulged  them  at  the  public  concerts,  tableau  vivants,  etc. 
By  invitation,  we  called  on  the  viceroy  at  his  Rhoda  Island  pal- 
ace, and  were  much  gratified  with  the  reception ; for,  after  hear- 
ing all  our  stories  with  marked  intelligence,  he  most  graciously 
offered  to  assist  me  in  any  other  undertaking  which  would  tend 
to  open  up  and  develop  the  interior  of  Africa. 

I next  appointed  Bombay  captain  of  the  “faithfuls,”  and  gave 
him  three  photographs  of  all  the  eighteen  men  and  three  more  of 


1.  Sikujua.  2.  Kahala,  alias  Raziki.  3.  Mzizi.  4.  Faida,  since  married  to  Frij. 


552  THE  SOUECE  OF  THE  NILE. 

the  four  women,  to  give  one  of  each  to  our  consuls  at  Suez,  Aden, 
and  Zanzibar,  by  which  they  might  be  recognized.  I also  gave 
them  increased  wages,  equal  to  three  years’  pay  each,  by  orders 
on  Zanzibar,  which  was  one  in  addition  to  their  time  of  service ; 
an  order  for  a grand  “freeman’s  garden,”  to  be  purchased  for 
them  at  Zanzibar ; and  an  order  that  each  one  should  receive  ten 
dollars  dowry-money  as  soon  as  he  could  find  a wife. 

With  these  letters  in  their  hands,  I made  arrangements  with 
our  consul,  Mr.  Drummond  Hay,  to  frank  them  through  Suez, 
Aden,  and  the  Seychelles  to  Zanzibar. 

Since  then,  I have  heard  that  Captain  Bombay  and  his  party 
missed  the  Seychelles,  and  went  on  to  the  Mauritius,  where  Cap- 
tain Anson,  Inspector  General  of  Police,  kindly  took  charge  of 
them,  and  made  great  lions  of  them.  A subscription  was  raised 
to  give  them  a purse  of  money ; they  were  treated  with  tickets  to 
the  “ Circus,”  and.  sent  back  to  the  Seychelles,  whence  they  were 
transported  by  steamer  to  Zanzibar,  and  taken  in  charge  by  our 
lately-appointed  consul,  Colonel  Playfair,  who  appears  to  have 
taken  much  interest  in  them.  Farther,  they  all  volunteered  to  go 
with  me  again,  should  I attempt  to  cross  Africa  from  east  to  west, 
through  the  fertile  zone. 


APPENDICES, 


APPENDIX  A. 

NATIVE  ESTABLISHMENT  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 

These  men  all  severally  agreed,  before  Colonel  Rigby,  Sheikh  Said,  Bombay,  and 
myself,  to  serve  as  my  servants  on  the  following  terms,  as  registered  in  the  office- 
books  at  the  British  Consulate,  Zanzibar,  on  the  8th  of  September,  1860  : 

Supposing  I gave  Sheikh  Said  $500 — Bombay,  Baraka,  and  Rahan  $60  each — 
the  Wanguana  $25  each — and  Sultan  Majid’s  Wattima  gardeners  $7  each,  in  ready 
money  down,  and  promised  to  give  them  as  much  more  on  arrival  in  Egypt,  as  well 
as  free  clothes  and  rations  on  the  journey,  and  a free  passage  back  from  Egypt  to 
Zanzibar,  then  they  bound  themselves  to  follow  me  wherever  I chose  to  lead  them 
in  Africa,  and  do  any  kind  of  duty,  without  hesitation,  that  men  in  such  positions, 
while  traveling  with  caravans,  might  reasonably  be  expected  to  do. 

The  money  alluded  to  having  been  paid  by  me  in  the  presence  of  all,  the  books 
were  signed,  and  our  compact  concluded. 


List  of  Men  engaged  at  Zanzibar — their  Pay,  their  Appointments, 
and  how  disposed  of. 


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g o 

Remarks. 

.9  U 

individual. 

° ^ 

& ^ 

Ch 

* 

1. 

500 

Said  bin  Salem 

Arab 

Cafila  Bashi 

Discharged  sick  at 

Kaze' 

2. 

25 

Stilimani 

Negro 

\ 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

25 

25 

25 

25 

Babu 

Feraj 

Yakut 

Yusuf 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

1 Servants 

Discharged  with 

Watu- 

> to  Sheikh 
( Said 

Sheikh  Said  at 
Kaze 

ma  or 
slaves. 

7. 

25 

Saadi 

do. 

] 

8. 

60 

Bombay 

do. 

Factotum 

Paid  off,  Egypt 

> 

9. 

60 

Baraka 

do. 

Commander- 

Sent  back,  Unvoro 

in-chief 

10. 

60 

Rahan 

do. 

Valet 

Sent  back.  Bogue 

T3 

11. 

25 

Frij 

do. 

Cook 

Paid  off,  Egypt 

<p 

12. 

25 

Mabruki 

do. 

Valet 

do. 

m 

13. 

25 

Uledi,  sen. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

> 

14. 

25 

Ilmasi 

do. 

do. 

do. 

m 

15. 

25 

Abe'di 

do. 

Porter 

Deserted,  Bogue 

16. 

25 

Rahan 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Unyoro 

1 

17. 

25 

W adimoyo 

do. 

do. 

do. 

2 

a 

18. 

25 

Wadihamadi 

do. 

do. 

do. 

3 

19. 

25 

Saad  Allah 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Bogue 

20. 

25 

Tabibu 

do. 

do. 

Sent  back,Usugara 

21. 

25 

Kari 

do. 

do. 

Murdered,  Uganda 

22. 

25 

Matiko 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Unyoro 

4 

23. 

25 

Nasibu 

do. 

do. 

Left  in  Uganda 

) 

tf 


554 


APPENDIX. 


List  of  Men  engaged  at  Zanzibar — Continued. 


1 i 

§1 

fcs 

0) 

**  o 

Highest  ap- 

p 

<0 

•g| 

'd  d 

Names. 

bo 

2 § 

pointments 
held  by  each 

How  and  where  their 
services  terminated. 

P cu 

Remarks. 

:=;  3 

.a  s 

° 

£ 

£ 

d ^ 

24. 

25 

Musa 

Negro 

Porter 

Deserted,  Unyoro 

5 

25. 

25 

Mabrtiki 

do. 

do. 

do. 

6 

26. 

25 

H assail  i 

do. 

do. 

Died,  Kaze 

27. 

25 

Baraka 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Unyoro 

7 

28. 

25 

Johur 

do. 

do. 

Discharged,  M’gun- 

CD 

da  Mkhali 

29. 

25 

Mabrtiki 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Unyoro 

8 

<D 

30. 

25 

Mutwane 

do. 

do. 

Left  sick,  Ukuni 

c3 

31. 

25 

Bilal 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Unyoro 

9 

M 

32. 

25 

Othman 

do. 

do. 

do. 

10 

® 

33. 

25 

Muftah 

do. 

do. 

do. 

1 1 

a 

34. 

25 

Uledi 

do. 

do. 

do. 

12 

<3 

35. 

25 

Junta 

do. 

do. 

do. 

13 

tn 

36. 

25 

Uledi 

do. 

do. 

Sent  back,  Unyoro 

c3 

37. 

25 

Mabrtiki 

do. 

do. 

Left  sick,  Bogue 

£ 

38. 

25 

Sirboko 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Unyoro 

14 

39. 

25 

Masibu 

do. 

do. 

do. 

15 

40. 

25 

Msalima 

do. 

do. 

Sent  back.  Unyoro 

J 

41. 

7 

Mekttib 

do. 

do. 

Paid  off,  Egypt 

42. 

7 

Baraka 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Uzaramo 

43. 

7 

Kani 

do. 

do. 

do. 

44. 

7 

Kirambu 

do. 

do. 

do. 

45. 

7 

Kinanda 

do. 

do. 

Died,  Miningu 

46. 

7 

Mdara 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Uzaramo 

47. 

7 

Mdyabuana 

do. 

do. 

do. 

48. 

7 

Uledi 

do. 

Valet 

Paid  off,  Egypt 

49. 

7 

Mzungu 

do. 

Porter 

Deserted,  Uzaramo 

16 

50. 

7 

Thanun 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Ugogo 

51. 

7 

Kariombe 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  coast 

52. 

7 

Kingunga 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Uzaramo 

5 

53. 

7 

Matona 

do. 

do. 

do. 

5 

54. 

7 

Mulini 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  coast 

rp 

55. 

7 

Darara 

do. 

do. 

do. 

bfi 

56. 

7 

Khamisi 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Uzaramo 

o3 

57. 

7 

Yukut 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Unyoro 

17 

S 

58. 

7 

Hutibu 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  coast 

59. 

7 

Panamba 

do. 

do. 

do. 

ps 

60. 

7 

Pakarua 

do. 

do. 

do. 

jn 

61. 

7 

Yalia 

do. 

do. 

do. 

62. 

7 

Namaganga 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Uzaramo 

<3 

63. 

7 

Khamsi 

do. 

do. 

do. 

64. 

7 

Wilyamanga 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  coast 

£ 

65. 

7 

Mkate 

do. 

Potboy 

Paid  off,  Egypt 

66. 

7 

Mpuanda 

do. 

Porter 

Deserted,  Uzaramo 

67. 

7 

Kirambu 

do. 

do. 

Left  sick,  Bogtie 

68. 

7 

Msaram 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Uzaramo 

69. 

7 

Kirumba 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  coast 

70. 

7 

Kamuna 

do. 

do. 

do. 

71. 

7 

Sulamini 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Ugogo 

72. 

7 

Baruti 

do. 

Under  valet 

Paid  off,  Egypt 

73. 

7 

Umburi 

do. 

Porter 

do. 

74. 

7 

Makarani 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Ugogo 

18 

75. 

7 

Ulimengo 

do. 

Goatherd 

Paid  off,  Egypt 

, 

76. 

7 

Khamsini 

do. 

Porter 

do. 

APPENDIX. 


555 


List  of  Men  engaged  at  Zanzibar  (Hottentots,  Cape  Mounted  Riflemen), 
tlieir  Appointments,  and  how  disposed  of,,  etc. 


Numerical 

numbers. 

Names. 

What  race 
they  be- 
long to. 

Highest  ap- 
pointments 
held  by  each 
individual. 

How  and  where  their 
services  terminated. 

No.  of  guns 
stolen  by 
deserters. 

i. 

Mithalder 

Corporal 

Sent  back,  Mininga 

o 

Vandermerwe 

Trumpeter 

Sent  back,  Usagara 

3. 

Adams 

Private 

do. 

4. 

April 

do. 

Sent  back,  Mininga 

5. 

Jansen 

do. 

Sent  back,  Usagara 

6. 

Lemon 

do. 

Sent  back,  Mininga 

7. 

Middleton 

do. 

do. 

8. 

Peters 

do. 

Died,  Usagara 

9. 

Reyters 

do. 

Sent  back,  Usagara 

10. 

Arries 

do. 

do. 

List  of  Men  engaged  in  the  Interior  on  the  same  Terms  as  the  Wanguana. 

i. 

Hassani 

Negro 

Porter 

Murdered,  Karague 

2. 

Sangoro 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Unyoro 

19 

3. 

Ilmasi 

do. 

do. 

. do. 

20 

4. 

Khamisi 

do. 

do. 

do. 

21 

5. 

Mtamani 

do. 

do. 

Paid  off,  Egypt 

6. 

Matagiri 

do. 

do. 

do. 

7. 

Sadiki 

do. 

do. 

do. 

8. 

Manua 

do. 

do. 

do. 

9. 

Nondo 

do. 

do. 

Sent  back,  Uganda 

10. 

Sampti 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Unyamuezi 

11. 

Farhan 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Unyoro 

12. 

Saidi 

do. 

do. 

do. 

22 

13. 

Chauri 

do. 

do. 

do. 

23 

14. 

Mijaliwa 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Abu  Ahmed 

15. 

Sangoro 

do. 

do. 

16. 

Mu-rzuki 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Unyoro 

24 

17. 

Farhan 

do. 

do. 

Paid  off,  Egypt 

18. 

Chongo 

do. 

do. 

Deserted,  Unyoro 

19. 

Mduru 

do. 

do. 

do. 

20. 

Pulimbofu 

do. 

do. 

do. 

21. 

Kuduru 

do. 

do. 

do. 

22. 

Fisi 

do. 

do. 

do. 

APPENDIX  B. 

List  of  Property  (African  money)  sent  forward  to  Kaze,  to  the  care  of  Musa 
M’zuri,  carried  by  56  Pagazis,  or  Wanyamuezi  Porters,  who  were  paid  in  advance 
$511,  under  the  command  of  two  Freed  Slaves,  who  received  $100. 


FIRST  LOT. 


Quantity. 

Measurements. 

6 

Frasala 

Material  forming  36  Loads. 
Sami-Sami,  or  carmine  beads 

dols.  qrs.  a. 
102  0 0 

6 

do. 

Golabi,  or  pink  beads 

87  0 0 

9 

do. 

Kadunduguru.  or  Indian  red  beads 

49  2 0 

12 

do. 

Langio,  or  blue  beads 

84  0 0 

20 

do. 

Kanyera,  or  white  beads 

110  0 0 

9 

do. 

Mzizima,  or  blue  circlet  beads 

63  0 0 

Total 

495  2 0 

556 


APPENDIX. 


FIRST  LOT — Continued. 


Quantity. 

Measurements. 

122 

Bolts 

Material  forming  20  Loads. 
Merikani,  or  American  sheeting 

dols.  qrs.  a. 

343  2 0 

2 

do. 

Joho,  or  red  blanketing 

30  0 0 

71 

do. 

Kiniki,  or  Indian  blue  stuffs 

56  0 0 

42 

Pieces 

Barsati,  or  colored  cloths 

14  0 0 

5 

do. 

Sahari,  do.  

Dubuani  do.  

3 3 0 

5 

do. 

3 3 0 

40 

Cubits 

Bindera,  or  Indian  red  stuffs 

12  0 

1G 

do. 

Chintz 

10  2 

Total 

453  2 2 

List  of  Property  (African  money)  taken  with  the  Expedition,  carried  by  100  Pa- 
gazis,  or  Wanyamtie'zi  Porters,  who  were  paid  in  advance  $925,  under  my  com- 
mand. 


SECOND  LOT. 


Quantity. 

Measurements. 

Material  forming  59  Loads. 

dols. 

qrs. 

a. 

332 

Bolts 

Merikani 

954 

2 

0 

60 

do. 

Kiniki 

46 

2 

0 

10 

do. 

Misshti,  colored  stuffs 

6 

i 

0 

5 

do. 

Chintz 

9 

i 

2 

10 

Pieces 

Kisutu 

4 

2 

0 

42 

do. 

Barsati 

19 

3 

0 

22 

do. 

Sahari 

27 

3 

0 

25 

do. 

Dubilani 

31 

0 

0 

5 

do. 

Ivikai,  colored  stuffs 

4 

0 

0 

5 

do. 

Ivhfldrangi,  do 

10 

0 

0 

2 

do. 

De'ole',  gold  embroidered 

14 

2 

0 

2 

do. 

Chibaya,  do.  

16 

0 

0 

2 

Waistcoats 

Kizbao,  do.  

30 

0 

0 

4 

Cubits 

Binde'ra,  do.  

7 

2 

0 

12 

Caps 

Kofi  a,  Fez 

6 

0 

0 

5 

do. 

Kofia,  Surat 

3 

2 

0 

24 

Bundles 

Very  minute  beads — red,  pink,  white,  and 

blue — expressly  for  the  Wahuma  kings, 

were  concealed  in  these  loads 

48 

0 

0 

Total 

1239 

0 

2 

Material  forming  28  Loads. 

10* 

Eras  ala 

Langio 

84 

0 

0 

104 

do. 

Sami-Sami 

178 

2 

0 

104 

do. 

Kuttiamnazi,  or  cocoa-nut  leaf 

94 

2 

0 

104 

do. 

Golabi 

157 

2 

0 

7 

do. 

Mzizima 

21 

0 

0 

Total 

535 

2 

0 

Material  forming  13  Loads. 

104 

Frasala 

Brass  wire 

90 

0 

0 

9* 

do. 

Copper  wire 

130 

1 

0 

Total 

220 

1 

0 

APPENDIX. 


557 


APPENDIX  C. 

List  op  Large  Game  bagged  by  the  East  African  Expedition. 

1860. 

Sept.  Kusiki — One  male  hippopotamus. 

Oct.  15.  Kidunda — One  male  and  one  female  pallah  boc,  one  female  wart  hog. 

Oct.  17.  Mgeta — One  male  and  one  female  brindled  gnu,  two  male  ellipsiprymna, 
one  male  pallah  boc. 

Oct.  25.  Zungomero — One  male  and  one  female  zebra. 

Oct.  28.  Kirengtte — One  calf  red  antelope  (?). 

Nov.  3.  Makata — One  male  giraffe,  one  female  ellipsiprymna.  4th.  One  male  re- 

duncus  antelope. 

Nov.  18.  Inenge — One  female  striped  eland,  one  female  saltiana  antelope,  one  female 
red  antelope  (?). 

Nov.  27.  East  Kanyenye — One  male  black  rhinoceros. 

Nov.  30.  West  Kanyenye — One  male  and  one  female  New  Ugogo  antelope.  Dec.  2. 

One  male  New  Ugogo  antelope,  one  male  pallah  boc.  3d.  One  female 
New  Ugogo  antelope. 

Dec.  7.  Khoko — One  female  black  rhinoceros.  8th.  One  male  and  two  female 
buffaloes. 

Dec.  12.  Wilderness. — One  female  saltiana  antelope.  18th.  One  male  zebra,  one 
male  saltiana  antelope.  20tli.  One  male  saltiana  antelope.  21st.  Two 
male  zebras.  22d.  One  male  zebra,  one  female  wart  hog.  24th.  One 
female  duyker  boc.  25th.  One  male  black  rhinoceros,  one  male  duyker 
boc.  27th.  One  female  black  rhinoceros,  one  male  wart  hog.  31st.  One 
male  zebra.  Jan.  2, 1861.  One  female  zebra,  one  male  duyker  boc.  3d. 
One  male  black  rhinoceros.  4th.  One  female  saltatrix  antelope,  one  male 
wart  hog.  6th.  One  male  and  one  female  zebra.  t, 

1861. 

Feb.  21.  Kaze— -One  male  blanc  boc. 

Aug.  25.  Uktlni — One  female  bush  boc. 

Oct.  22.  Usui — One  male  grys  boc. 

Nov.  17.  Karague — One  (?)  white  rhinoceros.  19th.  Two  male  white  rhinoceros. 

Dec.  9.  Three  male  white  rhinoceros.  Jan.  13, 1862.  One  male  grys  boc. 

1862. 

July  14.  Uganda — One  female  lencotis  antelope.  16th.  Two  male  zebras.  17th. 

One  female  ndjezza  antelope.  22d.  One  male  lencotis  antelope.  24th. 
One  male  lencotis  antelope,  25th.  One  male  lencotis  antelope.  Aug. 
1.  One  female  nsamma  antelope,  one  male  bush  boc.  3d.  One  male 
nsamma  antelope.  4th.  One  female  nsamma  antelope.  15th.  One  male 
lencotis  antelope. 

Nov.  27.  Gani — One  male  buffalo. 

Dec.  24.  Madi — One  male  bush  boc.  Jan.  13, 1863.  One  male  nsamma  antelope. 

21st.  One  male  buffalo.  23d.  One  male  black  rhinoceros.  28th.  One 
female  lencotis  antelope.  29th.  One  male  and  one  female  lencotis  an- 
telope. 


APPENDIX  D. 

LIST  OF  ASTRONOMICALLY  FIXED  STATIONS. 

In  offering  this  List  of  Astronomically  Fixed  Stations,  made  solely  on  this  expe- 
dition, I wish  it  to  be  understood  that  the  results  in  Latitudes  and  Longitudes  are 
reductions,  or  rather  recalculations,  which  have  been  made  by  Mr.  E.  Dunkin,  Com- 
puter to  the  Royal  Observatory,  Greenwich,  from  my  crude  Observations,  as  it  is  the 
best  security  that  I can  produce  for  their  accuracy.  My  sextants  were  8-inch. 

J.  H.  Speke. 


558 


APPENDIX. 


List  of  Astronomically  fixed  Stations — Continued. 


No. 

Station. 

South  Lat. 

East  Long. 

No. 

Station.  # 

South  Lat. 

East  Long. 

i 

Bagamoyo  . . . 

6°  25'  59" 

54 

Vigura 

2°  2!  43" 

2 

Bomani  

6 30  44 

55 

1st  Uriel  

2 11  23 

3 

Ikamburu 

6 33  49 

56 

Khonze  

2 5 28 

4 

Kizoto 

6 38  29 

57 

Kiwera 

1 59  53 

5 

Kiranga  Ranga 

6 42  49 

58 

Uthenga 

1 55  28 

6 

Muhugue.  . 

6 53  49 

59 

1 50  7 

7 

Matamombo  . . 

7 10  39 

60 

Katawanga 

1 45  53 

8 

liege  la  Mhora 

7 14  9 

61 

Rumanika’s  Palace 

1 42  42.5 

31°  1'  49" 

9 

Kidunda 

7 15  39 

62 

Kitangule 

1 16  40 

10 

Kiruru 

7 24  34 

38°  14'  O ' 

63 

Ndongo  .... 

1 12  35 

11 

Duthumi 

7 24  13 

64 

Ngambezi 

1 5 29 

12 

Zungomero .... 

7 26  53  5'" 

37  36  45 

65 

Kisuere  

0 55  19 

13 

Kirengue 

7 32  17 

66 

N’yagussa 

0 53  33 

14 

Makata 

7 20  37 

67 

1 kara  

0 45  48 

15 

Ngoto  

7 13  54 

68 

Meruka  

0 36  2 

16 

Muhanda 

7 9 9 

69 

0 30  47 

17 

Mb  ami  

6 56  30 

70 

Masaka 

0 20  2 

31  33  15 

18 

Manyonge 

6 47  0 

71 

0 7 40 

19 

Rumuma. , . 

6 46  29 

20 

E.  Ugogo 

6 31  12 

35  32  4 

Cross  the  Equator  to 

North  Lat. 

21 

W.  Kanyenye  . 

6 23  51 

35  6 10 

72 

Nakusi 

0 7 15 

22 

Mdaburu 

6 21  49 

34  50  8 

Kibibi 

0 15  0 

32  9 45 

23 

The  “Springs”. 

6 7 52 

74 

Nakatema 

0 17  55 

24 

The  “ Boss”  . . . 

6 3 59 

34  18  30 

75 

N’yama  Goma  . . . . 

0 17  15 

25 

Jiwa  la  JYikoa 

6 0 37 

76 

Mtesa’s  Palace .... 

0 21  19 

32  44  30 

26 

Raze 

5 0 52 

33  1 34 

77 

0 32  30 

27 

S.  Usagari  .... 

4 49  33 

78 

Namaouja  

0 39  44 

28 

1 ngiigd’s 

4 40  19 

79 

0 47  35 

29 

4 18  34 

32  39  50 

80 

Kari  

0 51  45 

30 

4 3 53 

32  23  15 

81 

0 52  27 

31 

Nunda 

3 58  59 

82 

0 43  49 

32 

Phunze  

3 53  35 

* 

83 

Kianukka 

0 53  30 

33 

3 50  20 

84 

18  6 

34 

M’yonga’s 

3 46  45 

85 

Ututi 

1 24  53 

35 

Rube’s 

3 34  24 

86 

Chaguzi,  S 

1 36  39 

36 

Mihambo 

3 29  59 

87 

Kamrasi’s  Palace. . 

1 37  43 

32  19  49 

37 

Kague 

3 25  26 

88 

1 19  47 

38 

Makaka’s 

3 28  24 

89 

Kitwara 

1 45  9 

39 

Lumeresi’s  . . 

3 26  10 

90 

Giieni 

1 52  27 

40 

Muam  ba  

3 23  7 

91 

Gut  a da 

2 15  10 

41 

Kagongo 

3 19  27 

32  6 30 

92 

5th  Kidi 

2 41  22 

42 

Kagera 

3 14  34 

93 

Miidua 

3 2 17 

43 

1st  Uyombe  . . . 

3 11  4 

94 

Faloro 

3 10  33 

31  50  45 

44 

Pongo’s 

3 3 37 

95 

Panyoro 

3 21  47 

45 

N'yaruamba’s  . 

3 0 58 

96 

Paira 

3 25  27 

46 

JN.  VVanga 

2 57  43 

97 

Apuddo  

3 34  33 

47 

N’yamanira’s . . 

2 49  27  (?) 

98 

Madi 

3 47  15 

48 

2 49  34 

99 

Labure  

3 59  56 

49 

2 48  44 

100 

Mugi 

47  1 

50 

Kariwami’s  . . . 

2 47  24 

31  28  40 

101 

Marsan 

4 31  17 

51 

2 41  33 

32  28  30 

102 

4 42  33 

52 

Kitare 

2 35  8 

103 

Gondokoro. 

4 54  2 

31  46  9 

53 

Vihembe  

2 27  30 

104 

Mid.  Sobat’s  Mouth 

9 20  48 

31  24  0 

List  of  Magnetic  Variation  Results,  recalculated  by  Mr.  Dunkin  from  my  Ob- 
servations between  Zanzibar  and  Gondokoro.  My  compasses  were  small  pris- 
matic. J.  H.  Speke. 


Stations. 

West  Long. 

Stations. 

West  Long. 

Stations. 

West  Long. 

Kirengfie 

11°  12' 

Mininga 

1 1°  47' 

Mtesa’s 

9°  59' 

Mbuiga 

12  27 

Muamba 

11  20 

Urondogani. ... 

10  18 

12  00 

N’yamanira’s... 
Rumanika’s 

1 1 0 

8 48 

Ugogo,  E 

11  19 

10  58 

Faloro 

8 16 

Mdaburft 

Kaze 

11  33 

12  8 

Masaka 

Kibibi 

9 44 
9 28 

Gondokoro 

8 53 

APPENDIX. 


559 


APPENDIX  E. 


Heights  op  Stations  determined  by  Observations  of  Boiling-point  of  Water  between 
Zanzibar  and  Gondokoro,  recalculated  by  E.  Donkin.  Means  of  two  Thermome- 
ters boiled  by  Grant  and  myself.  They  are  given  to  show  the  table-land  forma- 
tion of  the  interior  of  Africa. 


Stations. 

Zanzibar 

Kirflru 

Duthumi 

Zungomero 

Kirengtie.... 

Mbuiga,  E 

Mbuiga,  W 

Kikobogo 

Makata 

Ngoto 

Mdhanda 

M’yombo. 

Mbumi 

Mdunhwi 

Tzanzi 

Manyonge 

Rumuma 

Marenga  Mkhali ... 

Inenge 

E.  Robeho 

W.  Robe'ho 

Marenga  Mkhali ... 

E.  Ugogo 

E.  Kanyenye 

W.  Kanyenye 

Usekhe 

Khoko 

1st  Camp  in  Jungle... 
3d  Camp  in  Jungle... 

Mabungurh 

“ The  Boss” 

Jiwa  la  Mkoa 

Mgongo  Thembo... 

Tura,  E 

Tara,  W 

Kigue' 


eet  above 
Sea-level. 

Stations. 

Feet  above 
the  Sea-level. 

Rubuga 

3402 

262 

Wali  River 

3388 

391 

Kaze  

3564 

516 

Iviri  

3359 

689 

Usagari,  S 

3292 

1068 

Usagari,  N 

3413 

1093 

Unyambewa 

3690 

1717 

Ukumbi 

3489 

1605 

Mininga 

3438 

1592 

Mbisti 

3338 

1648 

Nunda 

3265 

1514 

Ruhe’s 

3181 

1487 

Makaka’s 

3313 

2054 

Lumeresi’s 

3354 

2474 

Kagongo 

3527 

2959 

Kagera 

3588 

2468 

Uyombe 

3483 

2848 

Ustli,  S 

3989 

3633 

Vikora’s 

3873 

4712 

Kariwami’s 

3974 

5148 

Uthungu 

4001 

2498 

Kitare 

4204 

3123 

Vihembe 

3563 

2674 

Usui,  N 

3487 

2580 

Urigi 

3447 

3329 

Khonze' 

3392  (?) 

3255 

Uthenga 

3931 

3408 

N’yamwara  Hill 

4592 

3511 

Rumanika’s 

4661 

3731 

Little  Windermere.... 

3639 

3702 

Mte'sa’s 

3400 

4090 

Namaouja 

3103 

3964 

Ripon  Falls* 

3308  (?) 

3691 

Urondogani 

2865  (?) 

3597 

Kamrasi’s 

2856  (?) 

3715 

Karuma  Falls 

2970  (?) 

P.S. — There  were  three  cataracts  observed  on  the  Nile:  1.  From  Ripon  Falls  to 
Urondogani;  2.  From  Karuma  Falls  to  the  Little  Luta  Nzige  (?);  3.  From  Paira,  in 
Madi,  to  near  Gondokoro.  The  rest  of  the  Nile  was  more  like  a long  pond  than  a 
river. 

This  list  of  altitudes,  as  the  boiling-point  of  water  is  liable  to  show  an  error  of  300 
feet,  can  only  be  considered  as  approximate  to  the  truth.  This  may  be  clearly  seen 
by  the  observations  on  the  Nile.  J.  H.  Speke. 

Note. — The  tables  used  in  the  reduction  are  deduced  from  Regnault’s  “Tables  des 
Tensions  de  la  Vapeur  d’Eau.” 

Assumed  mean  barometer  reading  for  level  of  sea,  29.92  in.  Edwin  Dunkin. 


* On  my  former  journey,  the  height  of  the  Victoria  N’yanza  was  made  hy  boiling  thermometer  8740 
feet,  as  engraved  on  the  map. 


560 


APPENDIX. 


APPENDIX  F. 


CLIMATE  OF  VICTORIA  N’YANZA. 

Climate  op  the  Countries  bordering  on  the  Lake  N’yanza,  1861-2,  Tabulated  from  Grant’s 
daily  Observations  by  Francis  Galton.  \ 


APPENDIX. 


561 


APPENDIX  G. 

LIST  OF  PLANTS  COLLECTED  BY  CAPTAIN  GRANT  BETWEEN 
ZANZIBAR  AND  CAIRO. 

This  unique  collection  is  the  first  that  was  ever  made  by  the  drying  process  in  the 
interior  west  of  Zanzibar.  It  has  been  arranged  at  Kew  by  Dr.  Thomson,  and  is 
highly  commended  by  Dr.  Hooker,  who  regrets  with  myself  that  better  facilities  are 
not  instituted  for  the  guidance  of  explorers  in  foreign  countries.  J.  H.  Speke. 

N.B. — The  numbers  in  parentheses  after  each  species  are  those  of  Captain  Grant’s 
Note-book,  and  are  attached  to  the  specimens  deposited  in  the  Kew  Herbarium. 
The  native  names  are  given  within  quotation  marks. 

I.  RANUNCULACEiE,  Juss. 

1.  Clematis  brachiata,  Thunb. ; Madi  and  Ukidi  forest,  1862.  (561.) 

2.  C.  n.  sp. ; common  about  waste  grounds,  2j°  S.  (190.) 

3.  C.  incisodentata,  Reich. ; Wahiyow  cure  headaches  by  smelling  its  dried  leaves  and 

flowers  till  blood  comes  from  the  nose.  Uganda  forests ; among  tall  grasses. 
Alt.  4000  ft.  Aug. , 1 8 62.  (564. ) 

4.  C.  sp. ; 2 ft.  high ; erect  woody  stem.  The  ripe  feathery  seeds  form  a white  ball 

on  the  top  of  the  flower-stalk.  1°  42'  S.  Feb.,  1862.  (440.) 

1.  Ranunculus  pinnatus,  Port. ; Marenga  Mkhali.  1860.  Lat.  6°  44' S.  Alt.  3193 
ft. ; by  water. 

II.  ANONACE2E,  Juss. 

I.  Hexalobus  senegalensis,  A.  D.  C. ; “Imkooa;”  5 ft.  circ.  tree,  with  cedar-like  wood; 
the  Wanyamuezi  color  their  gums  and  teeth  with  its  one  to  two  stoned  drupes. 
5°  S.  and  2°  N.  Dec.,  1862.  (683.) 

1.  Anona  senegalensis,  Pers.,  var.  ; “Mtaotao  12  inch  circ.,  and  10  ft.  high,  tree  ; 
fruit  a red  edible  drupe,  seldom  attaining  perfection ; wood  makes  good  hoe- 
liandles  ; Unyoro,  2°  N.,  and  Madi,  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862.  (625J.) 

III.  MENISPERMACEiE,  Juss. 

1.  Chasmanthera  sp. ; thick  root  (yellowish) ; Unyoro  plantain-grove.  Nov.,  1862. 

IV.  NYMPTUEACEiE. 

1.  Nymphcea  lotus,  L.,  white  water-lily;  flower-stalks  12  ft.  long ; Nile.  2°  N.  (622.) 

2.  N.  stellata  ; Willd. ; “ Maoongee-Oongee  flowers  and  roots  eaten  by  the  Wahi- 

yow. Karague  Lake,  R.  Katonga,  and  Nile  2°  N.  Common.  Flower  a lilac 
purple,  and  half  the  size  of  No.  1.  (622.1.) 

V.  CRUCIFERJE,  Juss. 

1.  Morettia  sp. ; pods  curved,  i inch  long.  Great  spheres  of  this  plant  (withered) 
were  found  blowing  over  the  sandy  Balama  desert.  22°  N.  April,  1863. 

1.  Sisymbrium  sp.  (drawing — no  specimen) ; flowers  yellow ; pods  round ; linear  and 
many-seeded;  stem  purple  on  one  side;  leaves  pinnatifid.  1°  42'  S.  Feb., 
1862.  (446.) 

1.  Senebiera  Nilotica,  DC. ; smells  like  wild  cress ; Nile  bank,  I650  N.  April,  1863. 

VI.  CAPPARIDEiE. 

1.  Gynandropsis pentaplujlla,  DC. ; common  near  every  hut;  spinage  is  made  from 
its  leaves.  7°  27'  S.  and  !0  42'  S.  (380.) 

1.  Cleome  monopliylla , L.  Alt.  3900  ft.  5°  5'  S.,  and  32°  E. 

1.  Palanisia  oxyphylla,  DC. ; common;  Mininga.  4°  S.  April,  1861.  (186.) 

2.  P.  sp. ; common,  waste  grounds.  5°  T'  S.,  and  33°  E. 

1.  Cadaba  farinosa,  Forsk.,  called  “Kana;”  spinage  is  made  from  the  leaves  of  this 
shrub  at  Madi.  3°  N.  Jan.,  1863.  (746.) 

1.  Physanthemum  glaucum,  Kl.  ; bush  about  Madi  plains.  Jan.,  1863. 

1.  Cratceva  Adansonii,  Guill.  and  Perr. ; 10  ft.  circ.  tree;  fresh  shoots  made  into  spin- 
age,  and  young  branches  into  tooth-scrubbers.  3°  15'  N.  Jan.,  1863.  (748.) 

X N 


562  APPENDIX. 

1.  Capparis  tomentosa,  Reich. ; “Kowangwee;”  in  famines  spinage  is  made  from  its 
leaves;  Madi  plains.  Jan.  25, 1863.  (751.) 

1.  Niebuhria  ? sp. ; M’gseta  River.  7°  20'  S.  4 to  7 ft.  high. 

2.  N.  sp. ; Mohonyera.  6°  55'  S.,  and  38°  32'  E. 

1 . Moerua  oblong  if  olia?  Reich.;  Rich  country;  Nile.  7°  N.  March,  1863. 

1.  Boscia,  sp.  n. ; “M’Zazza ;”  moderately-sized  tree,  with  long  lanceolate  leaves  and 
terminal  inflorescence ; Madi.  3°  N.  Feb.  4, 1863.  (757.) 

1.  Capparideos  sp.  (drawing — no  specimen)  ; shrub ; purple  lines  on  the  back  of  the 
large  yellow  petals ; stem  rose-bush  appearance,  covered  with  stiff,  short,  curved- 
down  thorns.  1°  42'  S.  Alt.  4700  ft.  April,  1862.  (497.) 

VII.  BEXACEiE. 

1.  Flacourtia  ? sp.  (leaves  only);  “ M’seengeerra”  (Kin.);  slender,  hazel-leaved  like 
tree,  with  a few  thorns  ; by  burn ; Madi.  Feb.,  1863. 

1.  Cochlospermum  n.  sp. ; erect,  solitary,  woody ; 3 to  18  in.  long ; stem,  with  large 
yellow  flower ; in  bare  forest ; Madi.  Dec.  10, 1862.  (692.) 

VIII.  VIOLACE^l. 

1.  Ionidium  sp.  Alt.  4000.  Dry  forest,  near  Simbah.  5°  26'  S.,  33°  E. 

IX.  POLYGALACEiE. 

1.  Poly gala  sp. ; in  moisture.  Nov.,  1862.  2°  to  3°  N. 

2.  P.  sp. ; Unyoro  plateaux.  2°  N.  July,  1862. 

3 . P.n.sp.;  erect',  woody  plant,  on  high  ground ; Madi.  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

X.  CARYOPHYLLEiE. 

1.  Polycarpcea  corymbosa,'La.m.  ; Madi,  rocks.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Mollugo  cerviana,  L.  7°  27'  S.  37°  E.  Zungomero.  Oct.,  1860. 

2.  M.  nndicaulis,  L. ; weed ; Zungome'ro.  Oct.,  1860. 

XI.  PORTULACACE^E. 

1.  Portulaca  oleracea , L. ; spinage  made  from  its  leaves,  which  are  supposed  to  pos- 

sess great  virtue  as  poultices ; weed.  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862.  Common.  (608.) 

2.  P.  quadrifida,  Willd.  (no  specimen).  (593.) 

1.  Talinum  cmeifolimn,  Willd.  ; on  cleared  ground.  2°  N.  July,  1862. 

XII.  TAMARIXINE7E. 

1.  Tamarix  gallica,  L.  ? “ Jow”  of  India ; Nile  banks,  15°  to  16°  N.  April,  1863. 
Common  ; not  met  with  till  these  latitudes. 

XIII.  ELATINEiE. 

1.  Lancretia  svffruticosa,  Del. ; rigid  plant ; near  cult. ; Nile  banks.  16°  N.  April 
16, 1863. 

XIV.  DIPTEROCARPEiE. 

1.  Lophira  alata,  Banks;  6 ft.  cire.  tree;  “Meeenzerrah;”  the  handsomest  tree  seen 
on  the  route.  Its  leaf  is  used  as  a charm— -namely,  if  human  and  buffalo  blood 
be  mixed  upon  its  surface,  and  a native  inoculated  with  the  mixture,  good  for- 
tune attends  him.  The  young  leaves  are  of  a dull  red  color,  and  attain  a length 
of  2 ft.  Observed  only  at  3°  15'  N.  Dec.  10, 1862.  (679.) 

XV.  MALVACEiE. 

1.  Sida  cordfolia,  Cav. ; common  weed  ; near  cult.  2°  N.  Aug.,  1862. 

2.  S.  rhomb i/olia,Ij. ; common  weed  ; near  cult.  2°  N.  Aug.,  1862. 

3.  S.  alba,  L.  ; common  weed  ; near  cult.  Oct.,  1862. 

4.  S.  (Bictyocarrms)  Schimperiana,  Hochst.  Alt.  5000  ft.  2°  S.  Karagile  Hills. 

Nov.  29, 1861.  (163.) 

1.  Abutilon  muticum,  Don  ; about  fields ; Kartoum.  April  2, 1863. 

2.  A.sp. ; common  about  fields ; M’bwiga.  7°  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

1.  Urena  lobata,  L. ; “Milenda;”  bark  made  into  cordage.  2°  to  3°  N.  Frequent. 
(610.) 

1.  Pavonia  Schimperiana,  Hochst.  Alt.  5000  ft.  2°  S.  March,  1862.  (478.) 

2.  P.  n.  sp. ; moist  rocky  soil ; pretty  fleshy-pink  flowers ; Ugani  and  Madi.  Dec. 

4, 1862.  Plentiful.  (654.) 


APPENDIX. 


568 


3. 

1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 


6. 


7. 

1. 


1. 

1. 

1. 


1. 

1. 


2. 

3. 


1. 


2. 

1. 

2. 

3. 

1. 

2 


3. 


P.  macrophylla,  E.  Mey. ; Uganda  plantain-groves.  July,  1862. 

Hibiscus  crassinervius,  Hochst. ; Karague  valleys.  2°  S.  Dec.,  1861.  (215.) 

H.  gossypinus , Thunb.  ; grassy  hill  slopes.  Alt.  5000  ft.  Nov.,  1861.  (162.) 

H.  cannabims,  L. ; “Sun,”  cult,  in  India  for  hemp;  near  cornfields,  Mininga. 
4°  18'  S.  (169.) 

H.  heterotrichus,  E.  Mey. ; cordage  made  from  its  bark ; among  vegetation.  2°  N. 
Oct.,  1862.  (586.) 

H.  sp. ; open  ground ; Madi.  Dec.,  1862. 

H.  sabdariffa,  L. ; Roselle ; cult,  in  Unyoro,  2°  N.,  and  Ugani,  3°  N.,  for  its  seed, 
bark,  and  leaves,  the  bark  making  beautiful  but  short  cordage  ; the  leaves  make 
a spinage  in  the  Land  of  the  Moon,  called  there  “ Tocos’was’ and  the  seed  is 
eaten  roasted  by  the  Wagani.  (570.) 

H.  n.  sp. ; an  under-shrub ; banks  of  the  R.  Kuffb,  Unyoro.  2°  N.  Sept.,  1862. 

Gossypium punctatum,  Sch.  and  Th. ; 4 to  8 ft.  high;  perennial  cotton  bush  plant- 
ed here  and  there  by  habitations  on  the  route.  7°  27'  S.,37^°  E.,  and  4°  N. 
Oct.,  1860.  The  Wanyamuezi  make  a coarse  heavy  cloth  of  it ; others  cultivate 
merely  enough  for  sewing  purposes ; while  at  4°  N.  they  make  it  into  front  and 
rear  fringes  for  the  women,  irrigation  not  employed  in  these  latitudes. 

Eriodendron  anfractuosum,  DC.;  “Meesoofee;”  cotton-tree,  10  ft.  high,  with 
green  bark  and  thorns  or  excrescences  on  its  bark.  7°  27'  S.  and  2°  N.  (7|.) 

Adansonia  digitata,  L.  ; Baobab;  “Booyoo;”  54  ft.  in  circ. ; rope  and  kilts  are 
made  from  its  bark,  water-buckets  from  its  gourds,  and  seeds  mashed  in  water 
have  a pleasant  acid  taste ; dry  situations.  7°  S.  and  2°  N.  (22.) 

Malvaceae  sp.  (drawing — no  specimen) ; 3 to  5 ft.  high ; waved,  tubular,  grooved 
stem  ; bushy  ; near  huts  in  rank  cult.  1°  42'  S.  April,  1862.  (493.) 

XVI.  STERCULIACEA5. 

Stercidia  tomentosa,  Guill.  and  Per. ; “ M’loolooma ;”  10  ft.  circ.  tree,  whose  seeds 
are  eaten  raw  in  dearths ; cordage  made  from  the  bark  of  young  trees ; M’gunda 
Mkhali,  and  3°  N.  Feb.,  1863.  An  ice-colored  gum  appears  on  the  stalk  of  a 
freshly-pulled  seed-vessel.  (759.) 

S.  sp. ; shrubby  tree  ; unburst  pods  (in  sets  of  fives)  are  size  and  shape  of  a huge 
caterpillar ; threads  of  gum  appear  wherever  a branch  is  severed.  The  Sultan  of 
Ukuni  has  his  hut-lashings  madeTrom  its  bark,  considered  so  good ; bows  made 
from  its  wood.  3°  58'  S.  Sept.,  28, 1861. 

XVII.  BYTTNERIACEA5. 

Melhania  Forbesii,  Planch,  mss.  ; 3 ft.  high  ; on  bare  cult,  heights.  3°  N.  Dec., 
1862.  (729.) 

Dombeya  multiflora,  Endl.  ; “Keenga  ,”  3 ft.  circ.  tree  ; leafless,  but  covered  with 
blossom  in  Jan. ; the  Men  of  the  Moon  consider  its  wood  tough  and  excellent 
for  bows.  3°  N.  Feb.  1, 1863.  Frequent.  (737.) 

D.  sp. ; same  size  and  locality  as  above. 

D.sp. ; shrub  with  rich  clusters  of  white  flowers;  Nile  banks.  2°  N.  Nov., 
1862. 


XVIII.  TILIACEAS. 

Corchorus  sp.  (drawing — no  specimen).  Each  leaf  has  one  hair  (^  inch  long)  on 
either  side  of  its  base;  foot  high,  with  smooth,  shining,  pink  stem,  which  is  very 
tough;  leaves  make  a stringy  spinage.  l°-2°  N.  1862.  Common.  (542.) 
C.  trilocularis,  L.  ; near  fields.  No  uses.  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862.  (544.) 

Triumfetta  annua,  L.  ; grows  low'ly  among  cult.  2°  N.  Oct.  15, 1862.  (589.) 

T.  semitriloba,  L.  var.  ; Unyoro  plantain-groves.  Nov.,  1862. 

T.  rhomboidea,  L.  ; near  fields.  5°  S.  1861. 

Grewia,  n.  sp.  Shrub  with  snowy-white  flowers;  among  granite  rocks.  Alt.  4488. 
6°  S.,  34°  E.  Jan.  1,1861. 

G.  sp. ; shrub  with  delicate  purplish  flowers ; fruit,  a pea-sized,  smooth,  yellow, 
dry,  one-stoned  drupe  ; in  water-cuts,  Karague  Hills.  Alt.  5000.  Dec.,  1861. 
(381.) 

G.  sp. ; “M’komo;”  12  ft.  circ.  tree;  wood  with  a black  heart  resembling  rose- 
wood ; uses — bows  and  arrows,  building  purposes,  and  ropes  from  bark ; no  in- 
sect is  said  to  touch  it ; drupes,  pea-size,  light-colored,  and  pleasant-tasting. 
Unyanyembe,  5°  S.,  and  Madi.  Dec.,  1862.  Spread  generally.  (760.5.) 


564 


APPENDIX. 


1.  Antichorus  depressus,  L.  fil. ; near  cotton  fields ; right  bank  Nile.  16°  N.  April 
16,  1863. 

XIX.  ZYGOPII YLLE/E. 

1.  Tribulus  lerrestns,  L.  7°  27' S.,  37g- E.  Oct.,  1860;  and  2°  N.,  1862. 

1.  Fagonia  cretica,  L.  ; shingle  desert  behind  Berber.  17^°  N.  April  25, 1863. 

XX.  GERANIACEiE. 

1.  Oxalis  comiculata,  L.  ; common  near  cult.  Nov.,  1861.  (189.) 

1.  Biophytum  sensilivum,  DC.  Alt.  3900.  5°  5'  S.,  and  2°  N.  (584.) 

XXI.  SIMARUBEiE. 

1.  Balanites  FEgyptiaca,  Del.  ; “M’choonchoo 6 ft.  eirc.  tree;  drupe  edible,  and 
tasting  like  an  intensely  bitter  date ; kernels  made  into  oil  and  mixed  with  red 
clay  for  anointing  the  person  ; bark  of  young  trees  makes  strong  cordage.  3° 
N.,  Jan.,  1863  ; and  frequently  in  other  latitudes.  (745.) 

1.  Harrisonia  sp.  ; “ M’ceenango.”  Its  boughing,  thorned  branches  catch  one’s 
clothes  in  the  woods.  Elowers,  a pink  yellew.  Madi.  Dec.,  1862.  (700.) 

XXII.  OCHNACEJE. 

1.  Ochna  sp. ; roet  deeply  imbedded  ; flower  blood-red.  Alt.  1700  ft.  M’bumi,  6° 

56'  S.  Nov.  8, 1860. 

2.  O.  sp.  Rich  pink  flowers ; grows  in  patches  in  light  forest,  Land  of  the  Moon. 

Jan.,  1861. 

3.  0.1  sp.-,  ordinary-sized  tree ; Madi  woods.  Dec.,  1862. 

XXIII.  RUTACEJE. 

1.  Citrus  aurantium,  L.  ; cultivated  by  Arabs  in  their  gardens  at  Unyanyembe.  5° 
S.  1861. 

XXIV.  MELIACEiE. 

1.  Trichilia  emetica,  Vahl.  ; flowers,  Jan. ; grown  by  huts  to  8 ft.  circ.  ; the  bark  is 
used  medicinally  in  syphilis.  3°,  4°,  5°  N.  Jan.,  1863.  (747.) 

1.  Khaya  ? sp. ; 10  ft.  circ.  ; handsome  tree,  with  small,  lime-sized,  four-segmented 
capsules ; an  amber-colored,  glistening-fractured,  tasteless,  scentless  gum  exudes 
from  wounds.  Madi.  Feb.  4, 1863.  (756.) 

1.  Soymida  sp. ; “ M’bawa;”  (leaf,  gum,  and  seed-vessel)  ; tree  15  ft.  circ.,  branch- 
ing at  20  ft.  ; immense  canoes  are  made  by  the  Wahiyow  from  its  trunk ; a dis- 
agreeably-smelling, wax-colored  gum  accumulates  in  tears  from  wounds  in  the 
bark;  near  water.  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862.  (731.) 

XXV.  OLACINEA5. 

1.  Opilia  celtidifolia,  Endl. ; tree  by  water-course,  unknown  to  our  men.  Madi. 
Jan.,  1863. 

1.  Ximenia  Americana,  L.  ; “M’toondwah”  (Kinyoro),  and  “M’peenjee”  (Kisflahili) ; 
oil  is  extracted  from  the  kernels,  and  used  as  an  unguent ; Land  of  the  Moon, 
Unyoro,  and  Ugani.  1861,  1862,  and  1863.  (640.) 

XXVI.  CELASTRACEJE. 

1.  Gymnosporia  coriacea,  Guill.  and  Per. ; “M’thoozeea;”  30  inch  circ.  tree;  its  roots 

are  used  medicinally  by  women,  also  as  a purgative.  5°  S.  and  3°  N.  Dec., 
1862.  Very  frequent.  (728.6.) 

2.  G.  sp. ; flowering  shrub.  Alt.  4800,  East  African  chain,  6°  38'  S. 

XXVII.  RHAMNEJE. 

1.  Rhamnus  sp.  (leaves  only);  shrub  by  water,  with  red,  currant-sized,  and  colored 
berries,  soft  and  sweet,  with  hard  stone;  fish  are  brought  to  the  surface  by  throw- 
ing a mash  ofits  leaves  and  berries  into  the  water.  Wanyamuezi  name,  “M’qu®- 
tse-qusetse.”  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862.  (723.) 

1.  Zizyphus  jujuba  1 Lam.  ; “ M’konazee”  (Kis.),  “Kalembo”  (Kin.);  fruit  nearly 
all  stone,  nauseous  and  woody ; mashed  and  thrown  into  water  brings  fish  to 
the  surface;  goats  eat  tlie  leaves;  branches  made  into  fences.  Ugani.  Nov., 
1862.  Common  every  where.  (638.) 


APPENDIX. 


565 


XXVIII.  AMPELIDEiE. 

1.  Vitis  sp. ; wild  vine.  Usui  slopes,  2°  42'  S.,  Nov.,  1861;  and  Unyoro,  2°  N. 

(208.) 

2.  V.  sp. ; “ M’peengee-peengee;”  3 ft.  high  shrub,  with  one-stoned,  pear-shaped, 

deep  purple,  pink-spotted,  edible  fruit,  not  pleasant  to  the  taste ; neither  tendrils 
nor  thorns.  Madi  woods.  Dec.  6, 1862.  (658.) 

1.  Cissus  quadrangularis,  L. ; “ Meoleh-pleh spreads  itself  over  lofty  trees,  Unyoro, 

Nov.  9, 1862.  (616.) 

2.  C.  cyphopetala, Fres. ; climbing  among  shrubs,  Unyoro  plateaux,  Nov.,  1862.  (389.) 

3.  C.  cirrhosa,  Pers. ; in  thicket  of  bushes,  Karague,  Dec.,  1862. 

4.  C.  subdiapkana,  Steud.  ; climber  among  bushes,  Unyoro  forest,  1862. 

XXIX.  SAPINDACE7E. 

1.  Cardiospermum  haliacacabum,  L. ; common.  7°  S.  to  2°  N.  Leaves  are  made  into 
spinage  by  Wahiyow.  (558.) 

XXX.  BURSERACE2E. 

1.  Balsamodendron  Africanum,  Arn.  ; B’dellium  (resin),  “M’Gazoo”  (Kin.),  and 
“ Katatee”  of  Ugogo.  Wanyamuezi  boil  its  gum,  mix  it  with  butter,  and  anoint 
their  persons.  2°  S.,  April,  1862;  and  rocky  heights  by  huts,  Ugani,  3°  N., 
Nov.,  1862.  Frequent.  (496.) 

1.  Boswellia  sp.  (leaf  only) ; 20  in.  in  girth,  stunted  5 ft.  high  tree,  growing  locally  in 
patches.  3°  N.  1863.  Amber-colored  gum  exudes  profusely  from  the  stem. 
Sp.  of  “ Looban,”  or  frankincense.  (739.) 

XXXI.  ANACARDIACEiE. 

1.  Rhus  villosa,  L. ; thorny  flowering  shrub,  2°  S.  and  3°  N.  1861  and  1862.  (415.) 

2.  R.  sp.  ; “ M’sangool’a;”  shrub  with  white-scented  flowers  and  light  foliage;  not 

edible;  wood  makes  tooth-scrubbers  for  natives,  who  imagine  that  plants  for 
spinage  can  be  found  if  its  seeds  are  thrown  about.  Madi,  Dec.,  1862.  (697.) 

1.  Odina fructicosa,  Hochst.  ; “M’sangar’a;”  lofty,  elegant,  thornless,  6ft.  circ.  tree; 

wood  made  into  posts.  Madi  heights,  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862.  Gum,  sweet  tasting ; 
pods,  glossy  and  a red-brown.  (672.) 

2.  0.  Schimperi,  Hochst. ; “M’oooomboo ;”  3 ft.  circ.  tree ; wood  heavy;  nets  for  game 

made  from  its  roots  ; fruit  scarcely  edible.  5°  S.  to  3°  N.  (549.) 

1.  Sclerocarya  birrea,  Hochst. ; “M’choowee ;”  grows  to  12  ft.  circ. ; the  kernels  of 
the  fruit  (whose  unripe  sarcocarp  is  apple-scented)  are  milky  and  eaten  like 
ground-nuts ; leaves  of  young  branches  are  notched  at  tips,  older  ones  are  point- 
ed; large  grain-mortars  and  stools  are  made  from  its  red  wood ; forest  tree;  oc- 
casional. 5°  S.  and  3°  15' N.  (682.) 

1.  Sorindeia  Madagascarensis,  DC. ; 8 ft.  circ.  tree;  the  2 ft.  long  bunches  (say  200 
plums  each)  of  sparrow-egg-sized,  mango-tasting,  yellow  fruit,  hang  curiously 
from  the  main  trunk  and  boughs  like  parasites ; they  grow  also  from  among  the 
leaves.  Banks  of  rivers.  7°  S.  Oct.,  1860.  (25.) 

1.  Angcardiaceoe  ? ? “M’soowee;”  circ.  ft.  Leaves  compound,  smelling  of  sweet- 
brier  ; flowers  3 in.  long,  erect  catkins  ; edible  bullet-sized  plum  ; timber  some- 
what like  deal,  but  heavier,  and  made  into  grain-mortars.  Turah  nullah,  Jan. 
15, 1861 ; and  Madi,  3°  N.  (8.) 

XXXII.  LEGUMINOSEiE. 

1.  Crotalaria  glauca,  Willd. ; “ M’ctewse ;”  3 ft.  high.  Plantain-groves,  Unyoro,  27th 

Aug. , 1862.  The  people  of  Madi  eat  its  flowers,  pods,  and  leaves  as  spinage. 
(566.) 

2.  C.  calycina,  Schrank ; plateaux.  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862.  (573.) 

3.  C.  cephalotes,  Steud.  ; bare  woods.  3°  and  2°  N. 

4.  C.  mossambieends,  El;  6 ft.  high ; flowers  bright  yellow.  Zungomero,  Oct.,  1862 : 

and  Nile  banks,  Nov.,  1862. 

5.  C.  capensis,  Jacq. ; light  soil  forests.  Alt.  3800.  5°  S. 

6.  C.  globifera,  Mey.  ; field  weed.  4°  18'  S.  March,  1861.  (176.) 

7.  C.  striata,  DC. ; rank  cult.  Alt.  3800.  5°  S.,  33°  E. 

8.  C.  incana , L.  ; dry  soil.  Right  bank  Nile.  5°  10'  N. 

9.  C.  Gortensis,  G.  and  P.  ; height  6 in.  Alt.  5000.  5°  S.  Feb.,  1862.  (442.) 

10.  C.n.sp.;  grows  in  light  tufts ; hills.  2°  S.  Dec.,  1861.  (397.) 


566 


APPENDIX. 


11.  Crotalaria  n.  sp  ? very  handsome ; fallow  and  grassy  ground.  2°  N.  Aug.,  1862. 

12.  C.f  sp. ; long  root;  near  cult.,  4°  18'  S.  April,  1861.  (183.) 

1.  Lupinus  albus,h.  ; var.  Cult.,  15°  N.  March,  1863.  Now  ripe. 

1.  Trifolium  polystachyum,  Eres.  ; E.  African  chain.  Alt.  4700.  Dec.,  1860. 

1.  Incligofera  paucifolia,  Del.  ; right  bank  Blue  Nile,  16°  N.  ; used  for  fencing  and 

firewood.  Also  Nile,  15°  N. 

2.  I.  marginella,  Steud.  ; erect  stemmed  ; woody.  Karague,  March,  1862.  (483.) 

3.  I.  pentaphylla,  L.  ; Madi  woods,  Dec.,  1862. 

4.  I.  stenophylla,  Guill.  and  Pers. ; waste  ground,  3°  N.  Feb.,  1863. 

5.  I.  melanotricha,  Steud.  ; grassy  plateaux,  2°  N.  (574.) 

6.  I.  hirsuta,  L.  ; the  natives  do  not  use  these  indigo  plants  as  dyes.  4°  18'  S.,  and 

2°  N.  (182.) 

7.  I.  endecaphylla,  L.  ; small  plant,  with  liquorice-tasting  tapering  root.  Makata,  7° 

S.  3d  Nov.,  1860. 

8.  I.  sp. ; growing  10  ft.  high,  among  thorns,  reeds,  grasses,  etc.,  M’Gseta  River,  7° 

20'  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

9.  I.  ? sp. ; bushy  plant ; open  ground,  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Psoralea  plicata',  Del.  Nile  banks.  16th  April,  1863. 

1.  Tephrosia  sp.  ; Uganda  groves.  July,  1862. 

2.  T.  sp. ; creeps  along  the  ground  among  luxuriant  cult.  5°S.,33°E.  Alt.  3800. 

3.  T.  sp. ; 8 ft.  to  9 ft.  high.  Madi  burn  bank,  Dec.,  1862. 

4.  T.  sp. ; leaves  small  and  prettily  ribbed  behind.  3°  N.  14th  Dec.,  1862. 

5.  T.  Vogelii,  Hook.  fil.  ; rich  white  flowers,  bushy,  and  7 ft.  high  ; sometimes  hedg- 

ing dwellings ; a mash  of  its  leaves  is  used  in  destroying  fish.  1°  to  2°  N.  1862. 
(587.) 

6.  T.  longipes,  Meisa.  Karague,  March,  1862.  Alt.  5000  ft.  (487.) 

7.  T.  sp. ; grows  in  tufts  ; many-podded;  hills.  2°  S.  Dec.,  1861.  (401,) 

8.  T.  sp.  (drawing — no  specimen) ; purple-flowered  plant,  covered  with  silky  pubes- 

cence. 1°  42'  S.  Feb.,  1862.  (431.) 

9.  T.  sp.  (drawing — no  specimen)  ; stem  inclining  to  four-cornered ; covered,  as  also 

the  backs  of  the  leaflets,  with  brown  crooked  hairs.  1°  42'  S.,  and  0°  30'  N. 

1862.  (432.) 

1.  Sesbania  sEgyptiaca,  Pers. ; tree  30  inches  in  girth ; herdboys  use  its  seeds  as  a 
rattle;  Indian  hedge  plant.  3°  N.  Dec.,  1863.  (710.) 

1.  Herminiera  Elaphroxylon,  Guill.  and  Per.  The  “Ambash”  or  pith  tree  of  the 
Nile,  from  3°  to  8°  N.  Natives  use  its  light  logs  to  assist  them  when  swimming 
across  the  Nile ; grows  so  rapidly  that  in  three  years  it  almost  choked  up  the 
channel  of  the  R.  Bahr-el-Gazelle.  March,  1863. 

1.  Astragalus  venosus,  Hochst.  ; herbaceous  plant ; groves,  1°  N.  (529.) 

1.  Pisum  sativum , L.  ; cult,  at  Karague.'  Alt.  4000  to  5000  ft.  Feb.,  1862.  (466.) 
1.  Arachis  hypogcea,  ground-nut.  Cultivated  to  a small  extent  from  7°  S.  to  2°  N. 

Eaten  roasted,  boiled,  or  converted  into  an  oil.  (64.) 

1.  Desmodium  sp. ; 7 to  9 ft.  high ; sticky,  mouldy  stem ; abundant  in  grassy  for- 
ests ; Uganda  and  Unyoro.  1862.  (434  and  568.) 

1.  Uraria  picta,  Desv.  ; foot  high  ; rocky  soil;  Madi,  Dec.,  1862.  (666.) 

1.  Alysicarpus  Wallichii,  W.  and  A.  var. ; a decoction  of  its  leaves  used  along  with 
Calophanes  radicans  to  reduce  or  soothe  swollen  legs.  Karague'  Hills  and  grassy 
plains  of  Unyoro.  Feb.  and  Sept.,  1862.  (435.) 

1.  Smithia  n.  sp. ; near  cult.  Mininga.  4°  18'  S.  (177.) 

1.  Zornia  diphylla,  Benth.  ; in  tufts,  on  surface  rocks,  Unyoro  forests.  Aug.,  1862. 

1.  JEschynomene,  Indica,L.  ; “M’ptecee;”  “Solah”  of -India;  in  marshes  generally. 

5°  S.  to  2°  N.  In  Sept,  (the  height  of  the  dry  season,  at  3°  S.)  this  plant  lies 
dead  on  the  dried  mud  ; use,  floats  for  nets;  erect,  7 ft.  high.  (127.) 

2.  ZE.  Schimperi  ? Hochst.  ; “Kong’gSlo;”  sp.  of  Indian  “Solah”  (pith);  20  ft. 

high  bushy  tree.  Waganda  make  their  shields  of  its  light  wood ; Wanyoro  use 
it  as  trimmers  and  door-bolts ; Wanyamuezi  as  load-levers.  Oct.,  1862.  (615.) 
1.  Alhagi  mauroram,  Tourn.  ; thorny  plant  eaten  by  camels.  Thebes,  26^°  N.  May, 

1863. 

1.  Glycine  labialis,  W.  and  A. ; slender  climber ; plateaux.  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Ganavalia  gladiata  ? DC. ; waxy,  sweet-scented,  rose-pink  flowers.  Wanyamfidzi 
spin  its  beans  as  an  amusement;  among  grasses.  Chopeh,  22d  Nov.,  1862.  (628.) 
1.  Erytlirina  sp. ; handsome  scarlet  flowering  shrub,  with  moulded  stem  and  slightly 
bent  down  thorns.  Karague',  Feb.,  1862.  (426.) 


APPENDIX.  5g7 

1.  Vigna  luteola,  Benth. ; “Koonde;”  coarse  bean,  cult,  by  natives.  5°  S.  and  2° 

N.  Karague,  March,  1862.  (489.) 

2.  V.  sp. ; creeper,  with  rose-colored  flowers.  M’greta  banks,  7°  20'  S.,  38°  E. 

1.  Lablab  vulgaris,  Savi.  ; coarse  bean;  “ Gueengueezoo”  and  “ Maharage grown 
on  the  E.  coast,  and  Karague.  Eeb.,  1862.  Leaves  are  dried  and  made  into  a 
spinage.  (425.) 

1.  Psophocarpus  sp. ; climber,  with  winged  pods  overhanging  water,  M’bwiga.  Alt. 
1354.  7°  24'  S. 

1.  Dolichos  biflorus,  L.  ; small  herbaceous  plant.  6°  55'  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

2.  D.  ? sp. ; Trefoil  leaves.  Usui  slopes.  Nov.,  1861.  (206.) 

3.  D.  ? sp. ; resembles  the  “dall”  of  India.  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862. 

1.  Phaseolus  lunatus,  L. ; Duffin  bean.  Kazeh.  5°  S.  1860. 

2.  P.  Mungo,  L.  ; “Moong  ke  dal”  of  India.  Sown  in  ridges,  5°  S.  Uncommon. 

(59  and  82.) 

1.  Rhynchosia  viscosa,  DC. ; near  cult.  Unyoro.  Nov.,  1862. 

2.  R.  sp. ; elegant  racemes  of  erect  flowers.  2°  S.  Dec.,  1861.  (416.) 

3.  R.  minima,  DC.  M’gasta  banks,  7°  20'  S.,  38°  E. 

1.  Pachyrhizus  sp.  ? 4 ft.  high,  with  handsome  flowers.  Madi  woods,  Jan.,  1863. 

1.  Cajanus  Indians,  DC.  ; pigeon-peas;  “ Baraz”  (Kis.) ; or  Indian  “Urrur  ke  dall;” 
met  with  and  cultivated  every  where  ; grows  to  7 ft.  high  ; tastes  like  a coarse 
description  of  field  peas;  the  Wahiyow  strike  a light  by  using  friction  with  its 
wood  and  a reed.  (530.) 

1.  Eriosema  parvijiorum,  E.  Mey.  Karague.  1862.  (420.) 

2.  E.  n.  sp. ; stems  zigzag  very  much;  low  bush.  Madi  slopes,  Dec., 1862. 

3.  E.  sp.  ; 2 ft.  high,  erect.  Karague  Hills,  Feb.,  1862.  (414.) 

1.  Lonchocarpus  philenoptera,  Benth.  ; 5 ft.  cir.,  rather  ash-like  tree,  with  erect  clus- 

ters of  handsome  flowers  attractive  to  bees.  7°  S. 

2.  L.  laxiflorus?  Guill.  and  Per. ; “Mowaleh  ;”  30  in.  cir.  tree,  in  lilac,  sweet-scent- 

ed blossom.  Madi.  3°  N.  13th  Jan.,  1863,  (743.) 

1.  Dalbergia  melanoxylon,  Guill.  and  Per.  ; “M’pingo”  (Kis.);  “M’Gembeh”  (Ugo- 
go);  “ M’Teendeea”  (Kin.) ; 20  in.  cir.  tree ; wood  considered  first  class,  being 
impervious  to  insects  ; very  hard  and  heavy,  with  dull  purple  heart,  resembling 
rosewood  when  polished ; uses — arrow-tips,  wooden  hammers  (for  beating  bark 
cloths),  rafters ; root  a cure  for  toothache.  Met  with  from  5°  S.  to  5°  N.  (3.) 

1.  Abrus  Schimperi,  Hochst.  ; seemed  to  be  a woody-climber.  Madi.  3°  N.  1863. 

2.  A.  precatorius,  L.  ; found  curling  up  a young  tree.  Ukuni,  4°  S.,  Sept.,  1861. 

Zanzibar  men  consider  the  roots  boiled  in  grain  and  eaten  a certain  remedy  for 
swollen  testicles ; after  taking  it  vomiting  is  said  to  ensue ; plentiful  in  Uganda, 
where  the  king’s  officers  wear  wreaths  of  its  scarlet  seeds.  (122.) 

1.  ParJdnsonia  aculeata , L. ; seems  to  have  been  imported  here  by  the  Austrian  Mis- 
sion. Gondokoro,  5°  N.  1863. 

1.  Poinciana  pulcherrim.a,  L.  Zanzibar. 

1 . Pilio  stigma  Thonningii  ? Schum.  ; “ M’Keendambogo”  (Kin.);  “ Keeteembee” 
(Kis.);  a brushwood  tree,  found  every  where,  growing  like  the  “dak”  of  India ; 
short  lashings  can  be  stripped  from  the  bark  ; the  leaves  are  used  to  cover  sores. 
(95.) 

1.  Cassia  obovata,  Coll. ; -senna ; seen  being  collected  from  sand-covered  fields  of 

Kartoum,  March,  1863. 

2.  C.  acutifolia,  Del.  ; also  gathered,  to  a smaller  extent,  from  the  sand-covered  fields 

of  Kartoum.  March,  1863. 

3.  C.  Tora,  L. ; among  grasses  and  near  moisture.  2°N.  27th  Oct.,  1862.  (600.) 

4.  C.  Occidentalis,  L. ; bush,  near  water,  Nile  banks.  March,  1863. 

5.  C.  sp.  ; “Mcsekss’se ;”  5 ft.  to  6 ft.  high;  outspreading,  sombre,  green  foliaged, 

yellow  flowering,  black  podded  bush ; seen  as  fencing,  and  common.  3°N.  12th 
Feb.,  1863.  (76.) 

6.  C.  sp. ; a wild  senna ; near  acutifolia,  but  pubescent  with  broader  leaves.  Desert 

valley  near  Korosko,  21°  N.  April,  1863. 

7.  C.  mimosoides,  L. ; foot  high  ; wing-like  stipules  remain  withered  on  the  stem  aft- 

er the  leaves  have  fallen  off.  2°  S.  and  2°  N.  (445.) 

8.  C.  sp.  (Sect.  Chamascrista) ; small  herbaceous  plant,  growing  locally.  Alt.  1200 

ft.  M’bwiga,  Oct.,  1860. 

9.  C.  sp.  (drawing — no  specimen) ; yellow  flowering  tree;  pod  5 in.  by  1 ; seeds  elon- 

gate and  round  ; leaves  thickly  paired.  1°  42'  S.  Feb.,  1862.  (430.) 


568  APPENDIX. 

10.  Cassia  sp.  (drawing — no  specimen) ; 6 ft.  high  shrub,  with  yellow  flowers ; pods  4 
in.  long,  round,  glossy,  and  brown,  with  green  edges,  crammed  with  flat, .fig-shaped 
seeds ; midribs  red  ; the  branches  smell  so  nastily  the  natives  use  them  to  drive 
away  musquitoes.  1°  42'  S.  Alt.  5000  ft.  March,  1862.  (454.) 

1.  Cordyla  Richardi,  Planch. ; 12  ft.  cir.  tree  ; fruit  large  walnut  size  ; gum  in  deep 
red  bosses.  6 miles  south  of  Gondokoro.  15th  Eeb.,  1862. 

1.  Swartzia  marginata,  Benth. ; “M’nyembe';”  ordinary-sized  tree.  3°  N.  1862. 
(644.) 

1.  A fzelia  Petersiana  ? Kl. ; “ Makola 9 to  12  ft.  circ.  tree,  branching  at  10  to  25  ft. 
Uzaramo,  Usekhe,  and  Unyamue'zi  forests ; Gani  and  Madi,  3°  N.  Uses- — young 
purple-tinted  leaves  are  eaten  as  a spinage ; no  ropes,  but  drums,  door-planks, 
quivers,  and  pipe-howls  are  made  from  its  light  mahogany-colored  wood  by  the 
Wanyamtiezi;  a brown,  tasteless,  volatile  gum  exudes  from  wounds;  flowers 
richly  perfumed.  (14  and  27.) 

1.  Detarium  sp. ; seed  only.  The  natives  at  3°  15'  N.  eat  its  fruit,  and  call  the  tree 
Bootoo.  Feb.,  1863.  (761.) 

1.  Tamarindus  Indica,  L. ; “Looquajoo;”  ranges  from  Bumuraa,  alt.  2700  ft.,  6°  46' 
S.  to  3°  and  4°  N.,  in  the  Bari  country.  (124  and  541.) 

1.  Novum  genus  (near  Copaif  'era) ; “ M’chenga.”  Livingstone  gives  the  name  “ Chen- 

ga”  to  a similar  tree.  Covers  the  Wanyam&e'zi  forests ; bark  made  into  band- 
boxes,  immense  round  stores  for  grain,  and  fibred  kilts.  (32.) 

2.  N. genus , 2 d species?  (leaf  only);  “Miombo;”  girth  9 ft.  ; 50  ft.  high,  with  dark 

green  foliage;  considered  a first-class  wood;  made  into  rafters;  flowers  yield 
the  best-flavored  and  whitest  honey,  and  the  bark  is  converted  into  boats,  roof- 
ing, grain-bins,  kilts,  and  matches ; while  in  Uhiyow  the  cloth  from  its  bark  is 
said  to  bleach  like  sheeting.  2^°  and  5§°  S. , 32°  E.  Alt.  4148.  (1.) 

1.  Dichrostachys  nutans , Benth.  ; Shillook  country.  Nile  banks,  March,  1863. 

2.  D.  sp. ; flowers  bottle-brush  shape  ; one  half  rose-pink,  contrasting  beautifully 

with  other  lemon-yellow  half.  Bruce  figures  this  among  his  Abyssinian  plants. 
Alt.  2700.  6°  46'  S.  (20.) 

1.  Mimosa  asperata,Tu. ; thorny  bush,  in  every  swamp.  2°N.,etc.  (575.) 

1.  Acacia  Arabica,  L. ; “ Soonud”  (Arab.).  Bagara  Arabs,  etc.,  dye  their  clothes 

with  its  pods.  The  coarse-made  boats  of  the  Upper  Nile  are  built  of  its  cross- 
grained  wood,  not  considered  durable.  About  10°  N.  the  trees  measured  8 and 
10  ft.  in  girth;  those  forming  forests  in  low  islands,  at  12°  N.,  measured  but 
from  4 to  6 ft.  At  Muscat,  this  species  is  used  in  extracting  spirit  from  the 
date.  Seen  also  at  Siout  avenue,  Nile  bank,  28°  N.  (769.) 

2.  A.  Seyal?  Del.  ; “M’salla.”  Forests  of  it  at  9°  N.  Nile  left  bank,  March  3, 

1863;  tree  stems  Indian  red,  concealing  a soft  apple-green  bark;  height,  12  to 
18  ft.  ; flat-topped,  and  branches  much  broken  by  wild  elephants  eating  its  le- 
gumes; found  also  at  18°  N.,  where  camels  eagerly  fed  upon  it;  hard,  brittle 
gum  accumulates  on  the  trunk.  (767.7.) 

3.  A.  sp.  (near  Seyal);  “ M’seekeezzee ;”  inner  bark  used  as  lashings  for  temporary 

huts.  2°  S.  and  3°  N.  1861,1862.  (677.) 

4.  A.  sp.  (near  or  same  as  last.)  A bush  with  pale  hazel  bark,  scaling.  Karague 

valley,  Dec.  6,  1861.  (384.) 

5.  A.  elurnea?  Willd. ; 30  ft.  high;  top  flat  as  a table.  E.  African  chain.  Alt. 

4750  ft,  6°  38'  S.  Dec.,  1860. 

6.  A.  sp.  (notin  flower);  also  “M’salla;”  10ft.  girth,  with  white,  2 inch  long,  double, 

bulbless  thorns  set  closely  all  over  the  stem ; inner  bark  made  into  lashings. 
Woods,  Dec.  12, 1862.  (690.5.) 

7.  A.  catechu?  L. ; “M’wombweh;”  tree  20  to  30  in.  girth,  covered  with  angry, 

black,  flattened  thorns.  3°  N.,  and  Noer  country,  8|-°  N.  ; one  had  ripened  red 
pods,  white  bark,  and  double  black  flattened  thorns.  March  9, 1863.  No  uses 
known  except  fencing.  (767.8  and  756.5.) 

8.  A.  albida , Del.  ; “Haraz”  (Arab.);  leaves  eaten  by  goats,  and  its  bark  used  for 

curing  leather.  Nile  bank,  15°  N.  March,  1863.  (771.) 

9.  A.  sp.  Madi  tvood.  Dec.,  1862. 

10.  A.  sp. ; “ M’footamvool’ah  ;”  30  inch  circ.  tree;  thornless,  with  pyramidal  clus- 

ters of  jasmine-scented  flowers,  delicate-tinted  foliage,  and  whitish  finely-striated 
boughs.  Steaming  the  eyes  over  its  boiled  roots,  and  afterward  washing  the 
face,  is  considered  a cure  for  ophthalmia  by  the  Wanyamue'zi.  Madi,  Feb.  4, 
1863.  (755.) 


APPENDIX. 


569 


11.  A. pennata,  Willd.  ; pea-sized,  yellow,  scented  heads  of  flowers.  Nov.  16,1860. 

12.  A.  sp. ; “M’gongwah 10  to  12  ft.  circ.  tree,  with  marble-sized  sppts  of  spark- 

ling gum ; pod  contorted,  dull  red,  10  inches  by  1J,  thin  as  brown  paper,  con- 
taining ten  flat,  shiny  seeds ; uses — hatchet  handles  and  building  purposes ; 
black  as  rosewood,  and  said  to  sink  in  water ; plentiful.  5°  S.  (101.) 

1.  Albizzia,  Lebbek ; “Lubach”  (Arab.);  shady,  ornamental  trees,  planted  by  Gov- 

ernment-house, Kartoom,  15J°  N.  April  5, 1863.  (773.) 

2.  A.  sp.  ; “ M’sangal’a young  thornless  tree,  with  long,  uniform,  boughing 

branches ; bark  brown  like  the  mountain  ash  and  circularly  lined ; used  in 
building.  Stream  bank.  3°  N.  Feb.  10, 1863.  (764.) 

3.  A.  rhombifolia,  Benth. ; small  bushy  tree ; no  uses.  Madi.  3°  N.  Feb.  6, 1863. 

(760.) 

1.  Zygia  sp.  (leaf  only);  “M’koondee;”  at  4 ft.  high,  measured  27  ft.  in  girth; 

branched  into  noble  boughs  at  15  ft. ; flower,  a round,  pink,  pendent  tassel,  with 
here  and  there  two  long  pods  attached ; these  latter  are  used  for  lashing  round 
poisoned  arrows  instead  of  leather  ; fruit  said  to  be  edible  ; uses — boats,  drums ; 
wood  takes  a fine  polish.  The  largest  growing  tree  in  Uhiyow.'  Wahiyow  say 
it  is  their  largest  tree.  7°  S.  Oct.  31, 1860.  (4.) 

2.  Zygian  sp. ; 20  to  30  ft.  high ; gracefully  foliaged  ; honey-sucking  birds  hover 

among  its  branches.  2°  41'  S.  Nov.,  1861.  (205.) 

XXXIII.  MYRTACEAG. 

1.  Syzygium  Guineense,  DC. ; “M’sawa;”  20  to  30  in.  circ.  tree ; fruit  edible;  timber 
red  and  cross-grained.  3°  N.  Dec.  18, 1862.  (708.) 

1.  Caryopliyllus  aromaticus,  L.  ; Clove;  groves  of  them  cult,  for  exportation  at  Zan- 
zibar. 

XXXIV.  ONAGRARIiE. 

1.  Epilobium  hirsutum,  L. ; willow  herb;  pink  flowers.  By  edge  of  Marenga  Mkhali 
stream.  Alt.  3900  ft.  6°  44'  S.  Nov.,  1860. 

1.  Jussicea  villosa,  Lam. ; 4 ft.  high.  Marshes,  3°  N.,  Nov.,  1862  ; and  Nile  banks. 

10°  N.,  March,  1863. 

2.  J.  repens,  h.  Near  springs,  5°  S.  Flowers  yellow.  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862. 

3.  J.  linifolia,  Vahl. ; stem  and  leaves  tinted  red;  flowers  yellow.  7£°  S.  Oct., 

1860. 

4.  J.  augustifolia,  Lam.  Zungomero  river  bank,  7J°  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

1.  Ludwirgia parviflora,  Roxb.  Near  moisture,  Unyoro.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Trapa  natans,  L.  ; “Singara.”  The  Waganda  gather  its  four-pronged  nut  on 
the  shores  of  Victoria  N’yanza;  wild  boars  eat  them.  Equator  and  Nile,  2°  N. 
May  and  Nov.,  1862.  (515.) 

XXXV.  LYTHRACEiE. 

1.  Lawsonia  alba,  Lam.  ; “ Hin’a”  or  “ Henna ;”  dye  shrub.  Philoe  ruins,  Nile,  24° 
N.  May,  16, 1863. 

1.  Nescea  erecta,  GuUl. ; diminutive  plant ; swamps.  Madi.  Oct.,  14, 1862. 

1.  Ammannia  vesicatoria,  Roxb. ; in  bog  on  Madi  rocks.  Dec.,  1863. 

XXXVI.  COMBRETACEiE. 

1.  Combretum  eleagni folium,  Y\smc\\.  Madi.  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

2.  C.  sp.  ( Tertninalia  hirta,  Steud.) ; velvet-surfaced  leaf,  rough  underneath  ; no  tim- 

ber. E.  African  chain.  Alt.  4700  ft.  6°  30'  S.  Dec.  19, 1860.  (34.) 

3.  C.  sp.  (like  one  of  Kotschy’s) ; thicket  bush,  with  arching  branches,  and  four-winged 

ovate  capsules ; leaves  rather  linear,  in  whorls  of  fours,  with  shining  surface,  and 
wavy  entire  edges  ; in  water-courses.  Madi.  3°  N.  Dec.  20, 1862.  No  uses. 
(717.) 

4.  C.  sp. ; “ M’Landal’a ;”  30  in.  circ.  stunted  tree;  abundant  in  all  forests;  fruit 

in  bunches  of  four-winged,  rounded  capsules;  leaves  elliptical,  alternate,  crisp, 
and  glossy.  (121.5.) 

5.  C.  sp. ; 5 to  6 ft.  high  ; shrub,  with  rich,  port-wine  colored,  bottle-brush  shaped 

flowers.  Near  water,  among  rank  vegetation.  7°S.,38°E.  Oct.,  1860. 

6.  C.sp.;  four-winged  capsules.  Madi.  Feb.,  1863. 

7.  C.  sp. ; Madi.  Dec.,  1862.  (734.5.) 

8.  C.  sp. ; no  specimen ; handsome  creeper ; stamina  and  corolla  all  of  a brilliant 

vermilion  color ; capsules  five-winged ; branches  boughing  over,  and  at  times 


570 


APPENDIX. 


seen  catching  hold  of  and  climbing  up  trees  ; flowers  like  bottle-brushes  on  the 
dead-like,  now  leafless,  stems.  5°  S.  Ukuney,  Aug.,  1861.  (91.) 

1.  Terminalia  sp. ; “M’foof’oo;”  handsome  trunked  tree,  10  to  12  ft.  circ.  ; wood 
lemon-yellow  under  the  bark,  cutting  into  which  a sticky  juice  exudes.  The 
Arabs  of  Unyanyembe  build  their  houses  of  this  wood.  Wanyamttezi  tint  their 
bark-cloths  yellow  with  it;  fruit,  flat  oblong,  2 by  1 in.,  winged  all  round  the 
spherical  seed ; kernel  as  sweet  as  an  almond.  Gani.  Dec.  1, 1862.  (643.) 

1.  Powrea  sp.  ; near  P.  constricta.  Zanzibar.  Aug.,  1860. 

1.  Anogeissus  acuminatus,  Wall. ; 4 to  6 ft.  circ.  tree,  with  airy  foliage;  rare.  Bari 
country.  4°  N.  Peb.  13, 1863. 

XXXVII.  FICOIDEiE. 

1.  Trianthema  crystallina ; Vahl.  (not  of  Wight)  ; “Ice  plant.”  Sheep  are  said  to 
fatten  readily  upon  it.  Captain  Speke  had  seen  it  in  the  Somali  country.  Des- 
ert on  right  bank  of  Nile.  18°  45' N.  May  1, 1863.  (776.) 

XXXVIII.  MELASTOMACE2E. 

1.  Osbeckia  eximia,  Sond.  ; 4 ft.  high,  purple  flowering  plant ; near  water,  Ukidi  for- 

est. Nov.,  1862. 

2.  0.  Zanzibariensis , Naud.  ; stem  roughly-haired.  Zanzibar.  1860. 

1.  Argyrella  incana,  Naud.  ; richly  flowering  (rose-pink)  plant;  by  water.  Karagtle, 
2°  S.,  Feb.,  1862;  and  Ukidi,  Nov.,  1862.  (403.) 

I,  Tristemma  sp.  (near  T.  littorale ) ; rough-stemmed  erect  plant ; surface  of  leaves 
rough  as  a file  when  rubbed  reversely ; uncommon.  Dec.,  1862.  3°  N.  (730.) 

XXXIX.  CRASSULACEvE. 

1.  BryophjUum  calycinum,  L.  ; very  fleshy ; planted  by  huts  in  Madi ; said  to  have 
medicinal  properties ; also  grows  wild  in  dells.  Dec.  1, 1862.  (646.) 

1.  Kalenchoe  glandulosa,  Hochst. ; 4 ft.  high,  fleshy  plant.  2°  S.  Dec.,  1861.  (387.) 

XL.  CUCURBITACEiE. 

1.  Citrullus  colocynthis,  Schrad.  ; Shell  colocynth ; “Hundhul”  (Turk);  from  the 
fruit  a tarry,  fish-oil  smelling  liquid  is  extracted  by  heat,  and  sold  at  2d.  per  pint, 
for  smearing  leather  water-sacks  previous  to  entering  the  desert ; camels  refuse 
its  fresh-looking  green  leaves.  Abo- Ahmed  desert,  19°  N.  May  2, 1863.  (774.) 

1.  Momordica  sp.  ( cf.  M.  Vogelii,  Planch.);  climber,  with  rich  creamy  flowers  ,and 

prickly  round  fruit.  7^°  S.  and  2i°  N.  Nov.  26, 1862.  Whole  plant  smelling 
unpleasantly.  (633.) 

2.  M.  sp. ; Zungomero.  7J°  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

1.  Cucurbita  maxima,  Duch.  ; excellent  pumpkin  with  large  slightly  elongated  fruit ; 

leaves,  male  flowers,  and  seeds  eaten  cooked.  5°  S.  to  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862.  (599.) 
1.  Lag enaria  vulgaris,  Ser. ; “Booyoo;”  Bottle-gourd.  Drinking-cups,  bottles,  quiv- 
ers, musical  sounding-boards,  etc.,  are  all  made  from  the  fruit  of  this  useful  plant ; 
common  by  habitations.  (598.) 

1.  Mukia  scohre.Ua,  Am. ; climber.  Nile  banks.  March,  1863. 

1.  Melothria  triangularis,  Benth.  ; climber.  Forest.  2|-0N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Bryonia  laciniosa,  L. ; climber,,  with  beautiful  scarlet  and  white  berries  (beads  like 
them  would  be  vastly  admired  by  natives  at  2°  N.);  plant  offensive  to  handle. 
Unyoro,  Dec.,  1862.  (617.) 

1.  Luff  a pentandra,  Roxb. ; Towel-gourd,  grows  wild  over  the  garden  fences.  Unyan- 

yembe, 5°  S.  1861.  Nile  banks,  6°-9°  N. 

2 . L.  ? sp. ; among  grasses  ; fruit  prickly.  Nile,  16°  N.  April  16, 1863. 

1.  Coccinia  Indica,  W.  and  A.;  Waganda  make  garlands  of  the  leaves.  Unyoro, 
Nov.,  1862.  (597.) 

1.  Cucumis  sativus ; common  cucumber ; gardens  of  Arabs,  5°  S.  Called  generally 
“Matango.”  (67.) 

1.  Cucurbitacea ; creeper  with  yellow  flowers.  7°  20'  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

2.  C.  sp. ; climbs  up  acacias ; flower,  yellowish-white  ; leaves  much  divided.  Noer 

country,  8^°  N.  March  9, 1863. 

3.  C.  sp. ; ivy-leaved  creeper.  7°  20'  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

4.  C.  sp.  ; climber,  flowers  yellow,  leaves  compound.  Zungomero,  7°  27'  S.  Oct., 

1860. 

1.  Carica  papaya,  L. ; grown  in  the  gardens  of  Arabs.  5°  S.  (13.) 


APPENDIX. 


571 


XLI.  UMBELLMER2E. 

1.  Hydrocotyle  natans,  L. ; marshes.  1°  39'  N.  Alt.  3300  ft.  Oct.,  1862. 

1.  Heteromorplia  Abyssinica,  Hochst.  ; flowering  shrub.  2°  S.  Dec.,  1861.  (299.) 

1.  Steganotcenia  sp. ; “ Meonga  Pembe considered  an  evil-producing  tree;  with  a 
branch  in  the  hand,  cattle  or  other  property  may  be  stolen  without  discovery,  it 
producing  unconsciousness  on  those  to  whom  the  property  may  belong ; forest 
tree.  Madi,  etc.  1861-62.  (639.) 

1.  Lefeburia  n.  sp. ; marsh,  by  R.  Wallah.  5°  S.  Alt.  3800  ft. 

1.  Peucedamm  ? sp. ; 6 to  7 ft.  high ; walking-stick  thickness,  tapering  root.  R. 
Kafu  banks.  Aug.,  1862.  (581.) 

1.  Cachrys  Abyssinica,  Hochst.  ; 5 ft.  high,  whole  plant  sweetly  perfumed  (something 
like  peppermint) ; in  woods,  3°  N.  Nov.  and  Dec.,  1862.  (709.) 

XLII.  RUBIACEiE. 

1.  Coffea  Arabica,  L.  ; “M’wanee;”  colfee  cultivated  in  considerable  quantities  on 
and  about  the  equator.  The  trees  grow  10  and  12  feet  high,  their  boughing 
branches  affording  shade.  The  berry  is  gathered  before  it  has  completely 
formed,  sun-dried  and  eaten  raw  as  a stimulant,  chiefly  by  the  Wanyambo.  The 
natives  never  drink  it  as  we  do.  Alt.  4000  ft.  1°  40'  S.  May,  1862.  (509.) 

1.  Crossopteryx  febrifuga,  Afr.  “ M’tseloambai bushy-growing  tree,  whose  seeds 
roasted  are  used  by  the  Wanyamhe'zi  to  fumigate  their  bark-cloths,  or,  powdered 
and  put  in  grease,  to  form  a scented  pomade  for  the  body.  5°  S.,  3°  N.  1861- 
62.  (698.) 

1.  Hymenodictyon  sp. ; “M’fo  6 to  8 ft.  high  shrub,  with  clusters  of  olive-shaped, 
purple-brown  seed-vessels,  covered  with  gray  excrescences.  Madi-burn  bank. 
Dec.  12, 1862.  (686.) 

1.  Sarcocephalus  sp. ; scrubby-looking  tree,  with  10-inch  diameter  rounded  leaves, 
and  rough,  brown-skinned,  pink-cutting,  sweet  apple-tasted  fruit,  orange  size ; 
full  of  seeds.  Near  water,  Madi  woods.  Dec.,  1862.  (690.) 

1.  Mussanda  n.  sp. ; pretty  shrub ; the  leaves  next  the  flowers  are  canary  yellow. 
In  rocky  places.  Gani.  3°  N.  Dec.,  1863.  (669.) 

1 . Vignaldia  quartiniana  ? A.  Rich.  Ukidi  and  Madi  (rocks).  Dec.  11, 1862. 

2.  V.  sp. ; erect  plant,  with  deep  purple  flowers.  2°  41' S.  Alt.  4000.  Nov.,  1861. 

(U0.) 

1.  Stylocoryne  sp. ; richly  flowering,  jasmine-scented  shrub,  with  evergreen  leaves  in 
whorls  of  threes  ; by  water.  Karague,  2°  S.  Feb.,  1862.  (422.) 

1.  Gardenia  lutea,  Eres.  ; “Koldla;”  its  roots,  boiled  with  the  flour  of  Andropogon 
sorghum  and  the  mixture  drank,  is  considered  by  the  WanyamUezi  a cure  for 
haematuria — blood  in  the  bladder;  the  contorted  branches  make  an  impenetra- 
ble fence.  5°  S.  and  3°  N.  1861-63.  (762.) 

1.  Randia  dumetorum , Lam.  ; prickly,  stiff-branched  shrub.  3°  N.  Feb.  13, 1863. 

1.  EL 'edyotis  dichotoma.  A.  Rich.  Karague  and  Uganda  groves.  1862.  (447.) 

2.  H.  sp. ; Madi  bogs.  Dec.,  1862. 

3.  II.  sp. ; bushed,  linear-leaved  weed.  5°  S. , 32°  E.  Alt.  4000. 

4.  H.  (Kohautia  sp.')',  (near pauciflorum) ; very  delicate  lilac-colored  flowers.  Grows 

out  of  water,  7°  20'  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

1.  Otomeria  sp. ; inflorescence  spires  up  the  stem,  rare ; corolla  pink,  except  the  in- 
side, which  is  white ; stems  seem  eaten  down  by  goats  or  cattle.  Open  ground, 
Madi,  Dec.  15, 1862.  (691.) 

1.  Rosea  sp.;  straight  thickly-growing  branches,  leaves  opposite.  4°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Canthium  sp. ; tree  with  clusters  of  hard  several-seeded  berries.  Madi,  Dee.,  1862. 

1.  Pavetta  sp.  ; shrub  by  water,  with  leaves  feeling  like  leather,  and  bunches  of  white 
flowers.  2°  S.  Nov.  29, 1861.  (160.) 

1.  Psychotria?  sp.  in  fr. ; “M’sweet’®;”  shrub  by  rocky  burn,  with  currant-sized, 
sweet-tasting  scarlet  berries,  not  eaten  by  natives.  Faloro,  3^°  N.  Dec.  14, 
1862.  (694.) 

1.  Mitracarpum  sp.  ; diminutive,  sandy  soil,  near  water.  Ukidi.  Nov.,  1862. 

2.  M.  sp.  ; hardy.  Unyoro  plateaux,  Nov.,  1862  ; and  5°  S. 

1.  Spermacoce • natalensisf  Hochst. ; low  sandy  ground  in  forest.  2°  45'  N.  Nov., 

1862. 

2.  S.  sp. ; corolla  sky-blue.  Alt.  5000  ft.  2°  S.  Eeb.,1862.  (439.) 

3.  S.  sp.  ; low  grounds  about  Madi.  Dec.,  1862. 

4.  S'.  Ruellice,  DC. ; opposite  leaved  ; near  cult.,  2°  N.  Aug.,  1862. 


572  APPENDIX. 

1.  Pertanisia  sp. ; pink  flowers,  whole  plant  very  milky ; found  growing  in  a sesa- 
mum  field ; root  tuberous.  2°  N.  July  29, 1862.  (531.) 

1.  Rubia  cordifolia,L. ; Red  madder;  clinging  plant.  2°  S.  Dec.,  1861.  (383.) 

1.  Rubiacea  in  fruit;  erect  shrub,  with  pear-shaped  leaves  in  whorls  of  threes;  five- 

seeded  seed-vessel,  black,  and  from  leaf-axles.  2°  S.  March  18, 1863.  (481.) 

2.  R.,  leaves  only;  bark  yellow,  brittle,  and  light  as  a cork;  considered  a remedy 

for  swollen  limbs  by  powdering  the  burnt  root,  and  rubbing  it  into  cuts  made 
with  a knife,  while  the  patient  sits  under  the  tree.  Madi  woods,  etc.  1861-63 
(740.) 

3.  R. ; “ M’koolookootoot’oo ;”  edible,  pleasant-tasting  drupe,  green  gage  size  and 

color.  Madi,  Dec.,  1862.  (678.) 

XLIII.  LORANTHACEiE. 

1.  Loranthus  Acacia,  Zucc.  ; red  parasite,  found  growing  upon  Acacia  seyal,  Nile 

bank,  March  29, 1863. 

2.  L.  sp.  n. ; clove-colored  parasite,  found  grafted  on  the  tops  of  trees.  Nov.  14, 

1860.  2°  41'  S.  Alt.  4000  feet.  Nov.  2,1861.  (6.) 

3.  L.  sp.  n. ; parasite,  grafted,  3 ft.  long  wands.  6°  47'  S.  Alt.  3250  feet.  Nov. 

14, 1861. 

1.  Viscum  sp.  (cf.  Y.  tuberculatum,  Rich.);  mistletoe.  Ustii  terrace  top,  2°  42'  S. 
Alt.  4500  ft.  Nov.,  1861.  Berries  orange.  (143.) 

XLIY.  COMPOSITE. 

1.  Vernonia  Vogeliana,  Benth.  ; salt-bush;  burn-bank,  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

2.  V.  stoechadifolia,  Sell.  hip.  ; mixed  with  Hygrophila  spinosa,  and  both  burnt,  salt  is 

extracted  from  their  ashes.  Forests,  2°  N. ; open  woods,  3°  N.  Aug.  and  Dec., 
1862. 

3.  V.  sp.  ■;  dwarf-growing  thistle ; in  patches  on  stony  ground,  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

4.  V.  sp. ; neat  slim  plant,  with  golden  florets;  2 ft.  high.  1°  42'  S.  Dec.,  1862. 

(408.) 

5.  V.  sp. ; large  plant.  Woods,  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

6.  V.  sp. ; leafy-stemmed,  erect  plant,  with  alternate  leaves.  Dec.,  1862. 

7.  V.  sp. ; common.  Woods,  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

8.  V.  sp. ; 2 ft.  high ; white  button-like  flowers ; near  cult.,  1°  42' S.  Dec.,  1861. 

(395.) 

9.  V sp. ; weed  by  huts,  with  mauve  flowers.  Unyoro,  Oct.,  1862. 

10.  V.  sp. ; coarse,  thick-stemmed  plant,  with  pretty  purple  and  white  flowers.  1° 
42' S.  Alt.  5000  ft.  Feb.,  1862. 

1 . Stengelia  sp.  ? florets  white ; those  unblown  a pale  purple.  1°  42' S.  Dec.,  1861. 

(218.) 

2.  «S.  sp.  ? (same  as  Barter’s  368) ; hardy  bush.  2°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

3.  S.  sp.  ? dwarf  thistle?  Madi.  Dec.,  1862. 

1 . Ekphantopus  scaber,  L. ; lilac  flowers.  Alt.  5000  ft.  1°  42' S.  Feb.,  1862.  (444.) 
1.  Ageratum  conyzoides , E.  ; common  near  fields,  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862. 

1.  Erig&ron  ? ? sp.;  beautiful  plant,  with  round,  purple  button-flowers.  Moist  places, 
4°  15'  S.  1861.  Salt  is  extracted  from  its  ashes.  (85.) 

1.  NidoreUa  sp. ; orange-yellow  flowers,  erect,  woody ; near  moisture,  7°  20'  S.  Oct., 
1860. 

1.  Spharanthus  suaveolens?  DC.  “Bozefea;”  blue  button-flowers;  mud  edges  of 

Madi  burn,  Dec.  18, 1862.  Wanyamue'zi,  when  troubled  with  ague,  mash  up 
the  whole  plant,  add  cold  water,  and  wash  the  body  with  the  mixture. 

2.  S.  hirtus,  Willd.  ; purple  buttons ; grows  in  thick  tufts  on  cracked  clay,  near  rice- 

fields.  Zungomero.  Oct.,  1860. 

1.  Dichrocephala  lati folia,  DC.  E.  African  chain.  Alt.  4700  ft.  1860. 

1.  Conyza  sp.  (near  C.  sEgyptiaca );  greenish-yellow  flowers;  stem  2 to  3 ft.  high: 

erect,  but  waving  upward  ; by  huts,  2°  N.  Oct.  15, 1862.  (590.) 

2.  C.  sp. ; flowers  yellow ; 2 ft.  high.  2°  S.  Dec.,  1861.  (398.) 

1.  Blumea  runcinata,  DC. ; 4 ft.  high,  with  bell-shaped,  gracefully  drooping  mauve 

flowers;  near  cult., 2°  N.  Oct.  15, 1862.  (591.) 

2.  B.  alata?  DC.  ; differs  from  No.  3 by  its  leaf  edges  on  the  stem  being  entire  ; 

bank  of  R.  Kafu,  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862.  (611.) 

3.  B.  Pterodonta,  DC.  ; 4 to  7 ft.  high  ; weed;  by  huts,  2°  N.  Whole  plant  sticky, 

and  smelling  between  mint  and  celery.  Oct.  15, 1862.  (592.) 


APPENDIX. 


573 


4.  B.  ? sp.  Earague.  Feb,,  1862.  (466.) 

1.  Pluchea  sp. ; lilac-flowering  5 ft.  high  bush ; on  borders  of  water-cut,  Kanyenye. 
6°  24'  S.,  where  the  water  was  undrinkable  from  brackishness;  salt  extracted 
from  its  ashes.  (46.) 

1.  Francoeuria  crispa,  Cass.  ; Nile,  16°  N.  April  16, 1863. 

1.  Varthemia  Arabica,  Boiss. ; Nile,  16°  N.  April  16, 1863. 

1.  Grangea  maderaspatana,  Poir.  ; grows  flatly;  Nile  bank,  14°-15°  N. 

1.  Poloa?  sp.  ; 1 ft.  high;  flowers  yellow;  root  fibrous;  sandy  soil,  3°  N.  Dec., 

1862. 

2.  P.  ? ? sp. ; pretty  little  white  flowering  plant,  covering  fallow  ground.  2°  N. 

Aug.,  1862. 

1.  Ambrosia  maritima,  L. ; bushes  of  it  cover  the  sloping  clay  banks  of  the  Nile  at  16° 
N.  April  16, 1863. 

1.  Eclipta  erecta,  L.  ; weed;  white  flowers.  7)°  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

1.  Wedelia  sp. ; root  woody ; common  by  roadsides.  6°  S.  Alt.  3800  ft. 

2.  W.  sp.  ,■  flowers  and  stem  purple  ; Uganda  plantain  wastes,  July  18, 1862.  (527, 

No.  2.) 

1.  Spilanth.es  Afmcana,  DC. ; single  small  yellow  flower ; Robeho.  Alt.  4700  ft.  6° 
38'  S.,  Dec.,  1860;  and  2°  N.,  Oct.,  1862. 

1.  Chrysanthellum  Indicum,  DC.  ; by  cult.,  2°  N.  Aug.,  1862. 

1.  Verbesina  sp. ; 1|- ft.  high;  flower  yellow  ; fields,  4°  18' S.  (187.) 

2.  V.  sp.  ; Gani,  3°  N.,  Dec.,  1862 ; and  leaves  from  1°  42' S.  Dec.,  1861.  (448.) 

3.  V.  sp. ; yellow  cornflower,  £ ft.  high.  1°  42'  S.  1861.  (406.) 

4.  V.  sp. ; 3 to  4 ft.  high ; purple  at  lower  part  of  stem ; covering  fallow  ground,  1° 

42'  S.  March,  1862.  Sometimes  roots  from  the  stem.  (448.) 

1.  Bidens  leucantha,  L.  1°  42'  S.,  Dec.,  1861 ; and  2°  N.,  common.  (394.) 

1.  Ximenesia  encelioides,  Cav. ; flowers  yellow.  15^°  N.  April,  1863. 

1 . Colula  Abyssinica,  Schultz ; most  diminutive,  with  yellow  flower ; by  a well ; Nile, 
March,  1 863. 

1.  Gnaphalium  sp.  (near  G.  Schimperi) ; large  bush,  with  handsome  clusters  of  soft 
white  flowers ; by  water,  1°  42'  S.  Dec.,  1861.  (409.) 

1.  Helichrysum  sp.  (near  EL.  ferruginum );  everlasting  yellow  flowers;  root  woody; 

East  Coast  Range,  7°  24'  S.  Oct.  30, 1860. 

1.  Antennaria  sp. ; hills  of  Chogwe,  6°  51'  S.  Alt.  3000  ft.  Nov.  13, 1860. 

1.  Kkinia  ? sp. ; diminutive,  with  port-wine  flowers.  Alt.  1750  ft.  Oct.,  1860. 

1.  Emilia  sp. ; orange  flowers,  stems  leafless ; plantain-groves,  1°  N.  July,  1862. 

2.  E.  sagittata,  DC.  ; Zanzibar,  7°  27'  S.,  etc.  ; orange  flowers. 

3.  E.  sp. ; 9 in.  high,  with  orange  flowers;  grows  bushily  by  cult.,  1°  42'  S.  Eeb., 

1862.  (464.) 

l.i Senecio  sp. ; weed;  Unyoro  fields.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Echinops  sp. ; 4 ft.  high  ; pink-flowered,  alternate-leaved  thistle.  2°  41'  S.,  and 

2°  N.  Feb.,  1861.  Alt.  4200  ft.  (141.) 

2.  E.  sp.  ; elegant  plant,  with  bushing  branches  and  round  red  flower.  Madi  wastes. 

Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Cuttumia  sp.  (near  a Cape  sp.);  diminutive  plant,  5°  5'  S.  Alt.  3900  ft.  1860. 

2.  C.  sp.  ; yellow  flowering  thistle  ; very  handsome.  2°  N.,  Aug.,  1862;  and3°N., 

Dec.,  1862. 

3.  C.  sp. ; pretty  plant.  4°  18'  S.,  March,  1861.  (170.) 

1.  Carthamus  tinctorius,~L.  ; “ Gartoom”  (Turk) ; Saiflower;  cult,  for  its  oil,  used  in 
burning,  at  Kartoom,  15^°  N.  Feh.  2, 1863.  (778.) 

1.  Arctotis??  sp. ; flower  brightest  scarlet;  drooping;  light-soiled  open  forest,  5° 

S.,  33°  E.  Alt.  3800  ft. 

2.  A.  ? ? sp.  ; flower  erect ; deep  scarlet ; root  tuberous  ; common,  E.  Equatorial 

Africa.  1860. 

1.  Centaurea  calcitrapa,  L. ; star-thistle ; delicately  scented ; Thebes  and  Carnac,  26° 
N.  Camel  seen  carrying  away  a load  of  it — probably  for  fodder.  May  20, 1863. 
1.  Gerbera  piloselloides  ? Cass.  Usagara  Hills,  6°  51'  S.  Nov.  13,  1860.  Alt. 
3000  ft. 

1.  Dicoma  sp.  n. ; pale  pink  pistils.  1°  42'  S.  1862.  (459.) 

1.  Lactuca  sp.;  spinage  is  made  of  the  leaves,  7J-°  S. ; 37°  31'  E.  Oct.,  1860. 

1.  Sonchus  oleracens,  L.  ; flower  yellow ; stem  milky ; by  water,  1°  42'  S.  Feb.. 
1862.  (407.)  2°  N.  April,  1862. 

1.  Composita  dubia  ; flower  yellow ; root  carrot-shaped.  6°  55'  S.  Oct.,  1860. 


574 


APPENDIX. 


XLV.  SAPOTACEiE. 

1.  Bassia  Parldi,  G.  Don;  Sheabutter;  “Meepampa;”  tree  10  to  15  ft.  in  girth, 
with  bare  branches,  the  leaves  and  flowers  raying  from  their  tips ; general  look 
' of  an  oak ; villagers  cut  away  the  very  thick  bark  ; milk  exudes  profusely,  form- 
ing a hard,  white,  insoluble  gum ; timber  cross-grained,  cedar-colored,  and  too 
hard  for  the  soft  iron  tools  of  natives ; flowers  heavily  scenting  the  air,  and  cov- 
ered with  the  honey-bee  ; only  seen  at  3°  N.,  Dec.,  1862.  (650.) 

1.  Clvry  sophy  Hum  ? sp.  (seed  only);  “Ghenjha;”  girth  10  ft.;  lofty  tree;  fruit, 

green  gage  size,  with  one  to  three  flat  stones  ; a sweet  drink  is  made  from  their 
pulp;  wood  made  into  spear-handles.  5°  S.  to  3°  15'  N.  ; near  water.  (93.) 

2.  C.  sp.  (near  C.  Macalismo'ntanum ) , very  milky ; tree  growing  like  a huge  bush 

on  the  face  of  the  rocky  hills,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862.  Leaves  (chiefly  at  the 
branch-tips,  where  the  fruit  is  found)  silvery  white  underneath ; ropes  made  from 
inner  bark;  frequent.  (703.) 

1.  Mimusops  Kununel,  Bruce ; “ M’nyemvee  ;”  lofty  tree,  5 ft.  in  girth,  bed  of  rocky 
stream,  3°  15'  N.,  Dec.,  1862  ; common  ; fruit  one-stoned,  dry,  but  sweet-tast- 
ed ; orange-yellow,  and  sometimes  reddish. 


XLVI.  MYRSINEAE. 

1 . Embelia  sp. ; “ M’Stekser’a ;”  30  inch  circ.  tree,  whose  young  shoots  grow  straight 
for  10  ft.,  with  a red-brown  mould  over  them  ; fruit  not  edible,  and  small,  like 
shot.  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862.  (695.) 


XLVII.  OLE  ACE  AS. 

1.  Chionanthus?  sp. ; “Meesoo;”  a wild  olive;  handsome,  lofty,  tall-trunked  tree, 
in  low  moist  ground,  3°  15'  N.,  with  sweet-scented  white  flowers;  edible,  large 
pea-sized,  one-stoned  drupes  in  clusters.  Dec.,  1860.  (701.) 


XL VIII.  JASMINACEiE. 

1.  Jasminum  sp.  (no  specimen);  in  shaded  nullah  bed,  Ukuni,  4°  S.  Sept.,  1861. 
(117.) 

XLIX.  APOCYNEiE. 


1.  Landolphiaflorida?  Pal.;  a tree-climber,  remarkably  milky,  with  clusters  of  white 
scented  flowers,  covering  lofty  trees.  Wahiyow  make  playing-balls  of  its  rubber. 
Natives  say,  if  its  milk  be  rubbed  on  the  body,  it  is  difficult  to  get  it  off,  while 
that  of  the  “ M’pira,”  another  “ India-rubber,”  can  be  easily  washed  off.  (707.) 

1.  Carissa  sp. ; girth  30  in.  ; flowers  handsome ; jasmine-scented ; in  red  clusters 

before  blooming,  afterward  becoming  a pink-white ; double,  straight,  inch  long, 
pink-tipped  thorns  ; bark,  mouldy-green  ; banks  of  Little  Windermere,  1°  42'  S. 
Dec.  3, 1861.  (214.) 

2.  C.  sp. ; “ M’fombwah ;”  resembling  an  orange-tree,  but  with  2 in.  long,  pink- 

pointed,  double  thorns,  and  clusters  of  jasmine-scented  flowers;  branches  angle 
wherever  the  leaves  and  thorns  are  thrown  out;  fruit  eaten  by  the  Wanyamue- 
zi,  and  its  disagreeably-smelling,  tasteless  roots  used  by  them  to  remedy  coughs 
and  chest  complaints.  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862.  (688.) 

1.  Adenium  sp. ; 3 ft.  high,  scarlet-flowering  bush,  with  swollen,  rapidly-tapering 

branches.  4°  N.  Bari  country.  Eeb.15, 1863.  (766.) 

2.  A.  sp.  ; 1 to  2 ft.  high,  with  rich  pink  flowers.  6°  55'  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

1.  Holarrhena  febrifugal  common  ; jasmine-scented  plant  or  bush.  Alt.  1300  to 
1500  ft.  M’bwiga.  Nov.,  1860. 

L.  ASCLEPIADEiE. 

1.  Tacazzea  sp. ; milky-climber,  with  minute  red  flowers,  and  covered  with  red  sting- 
ing ants.  3°  N.,  Dec.,  1862  ; and  Nile  banks,-  6°  N.,  Feb.,  1863.  (711.) 

1.  Calotropis  procera,  R.  Br. , “ Madar”  of  Punjab;  met  with  3°  15' N.,  in  Feb.,  1863, 
on  our  entrance  into  the  Egyptian  country ; not  seen  since  7°  S. 

1.  Dcemia  barbata?  Iilotzsch  ; white-flowered  climber.  2°  N.,  Nov.,  1862 ; and  5° 
10'  N.,  1863. 

1 . Gomphocarpus  sp.  (near  G.  fructicosus ) ; 4 to  5 ft.  high  bush ; near  recent  cultiva- 

tion ; rare.  5°  S.,  33°  E.  1861. 

2.  G.  physocarpus?  E.  Meyer.  (728.5.) 

3.  G.  sp.  ; 3 ft.  high;  near  water,  2°  N.,  Nov.,  1862.  (606.) 


APPENDIX.  575 

4.  G.  sp. ; very  showy  bushy  plant;  by  water.  Alt.  3193  ft.  6°  44'  S.  Nov.  16, 

1860. 

5.  G.  sp.  ; bulbous ; M’bumi,  6°  44'  S. 

6.  G.  sp. ; 4 ft.  high,  with  carrot-shaped  root ; eaten  medicinally  by  natives,  and  worn 

as  a charm  by  those  desirous  of  an  increase  to  their  family.  2°  N.  Aug.,  1862. 
(555.) 

7.  G.  sp.  ; Karague  Hills.  Alt.  5000  ft.  Dec.  5, 1861.  (216.) 

1.  Leptadenia  lancifolia?  Dne. ; flower  yellow,  backs  of  petals  green.  The  natives 

of  3°  N.  make  spinage  of  its  flowers  and  tender  shoots.  Jan.  26, 1863.  (749.) 

2.  L.  pyrotechnica,  Dne.  ; 6 to  8 ft.  high,  girth  20  in.  ; resinous  shrub  in  desert ; 20° 

N.,  the  only  procurable  firewood.  April  29, 1863.  (775.) 

1.  Brachystelma  n.  sp. ; bushy  plant,  with  flower  a dark  purple  star ; leaves  thread- 

like ; root  edible,  liquorice-tasting,  garden-turnip  size ; rare;  forests,  6°  S.  Jan. 
1,  1861. 

2.  B.  ? sp.  (in  fruit) ; 9 in.  high,  with  bulbous,  tasteless,  edible  root.  1°  42'  S.  Feb., 

1862.  (468.) 

1 . Asclepiadea?  dubia;  flowering  climber,  in  Unyoro  thickets.  July,  1862. 

LI.  LOGANIACEiE. 

1.  Strychnos  sp. ; “ M’phoondoo scrubby-looking  tree,  with  orange-colored  and 

sized  fruit ; a loose,  tough  skin  covers  the  rather  flat,  elongated,  acidulated,  drop- 
like seeds,  which  are  irregularly  packed  in  a sweet-tasting  yellow  pulp.  6°  21' 
S.  Woods,  3°  N.,  Feb.  9, 1863  ; and  2°  N.  (762.5.) 

2.  S.  ? (no  specimen) ; fruit,  not  edible,  monster  orange-sized,  with  brittle  rind,  and 

full  of  yellow  pulp ; leaves  have  a distinct  rib  on  either  side  of  the  main  one, 
and  their  tips  are  as  sharp  as  needles ; 15  ft.  high  shrub , in  forests,  4°  S.  to 
2°  N. 

LII.  GENTIANACEiE. 

1.  Octopleum  loselioides,  Benth. ; swamps,  about  3°  15'  N.  Dec.  15, 1862.  A Bra- 
zilian plant. 

LIH.  CONVOLVULACE2E. 

1.  Argyrda  sp. ; “Mohambo  ;”  3 ft.  high  ; delicate,  mauve-colored,  immense  flow- 
ers ; root  round,  21  in.  circ.  Considered  lucky  to  have  the  skulls  of  wild  ani- 
mals placed  by  it ; or,  with  a branch  in  the  hand,  the  hunter  is  certain  of  sport. 
Chopeh,  Nov.  22, 1862,  2^°  N.  The  large  roots  at  first  require  forcing  in  water. 
(627.) 

1.  Batatas  edulis,  Choisy;  “veeazee,”  sweet  potato,  cultivated  from  Zanzibar  to 

Egypt ; obtainable  from  the  fields,  or  in  a dried  state,  nearly  every  month  in  the 
year;  make  a beer  from  it  at  Bogwe.  34°  S.  (173.) 

2.  B.pentaphylla,  Choisy;  left  bank  Blue  Nile.  1863. 

1.  Ipomcea,  palmata,  Forsk. ; common.  Nile  banks,  9°  N.,  etc.  March,  1863. 

2.  I.  asarifolia,  R.  & S.  ; binds  down  the  sands  of  the  right  bank  of  Nile,  144°  N. 

March,  1863. 

3.  I.  reniformis,  Choisy ; yellow-flowered,  flatly-growing  creeper ; hard  mud  shores, 

Nile.  Noer  country,  84°  N.  March  9, 1863. 

4.  I.  reptans,  Choisy ; water  convolvulus.  Nile  edges,  18°  N.  March  18, 1863 ; also 

among  luxuriant  vegetation,  Equator,  and  2°  N. 

5.  I.  involucrata,  Beauv. ; climber.  Forests,  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

6.  1.  commatophylla?  Rich.;  on  and  near  surface  rocks.  Forests,  2°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

7.  I.  capitata , Choisy’;  twiner  among  bushes.  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

8.  I.  pterygocaulos  ? Choisy.  Nile  banks. 

9.  I.  pinnata,  Hochst. ; white-flowering,  running  plant,  near  moisture  lying  on  masses 

of  rock.  3°  15' N.  Dec.,  1862.  (656.) 

10.  I.  ? sp. very  handsome ; flowers  large,  and  pale  port-colored,  with  deep-green, 

long  heart-shaped  leaves,  much  impressed  from  below ; stem  slightly  lactescent ; 
climbs  to  15  ft.  along  with  the  previous  year’s  stem  in  seed.  2°  41'  S.,  1861 ; 
and  2°  N.,  Aug.. 8, 1862.  (145  and  559.) 

11.  I.  sp. ; climber,  with  pinnatifid,  deep-green,  handsome,  impressed-from-under 

leaves ; bud  purple ; but  one  specimen  seen.  5°  26'  S.  1861. 

1.  Hewittia  bicolor,  W.  and  A.  Nile  banks,  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Aniseia?  sp. ; leaves  only;  crawls  flat  on  bare  ground.  2°  41'  S.  Nov.,  1861. 
(188.) 


576  APPENDIX. 

1.  Breweria  malvacea,  Klotszch ; erect,  with  pink  flowers  and  soft  silvery  leaves.  2° 

42'  S.  (202.) 

2.  B.  sp. ; common  near  huts,  Chopeh.  1°  40'  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Evolvulus  linifolius,  L. ; blue  flowers,  growing  flatly  near  cult.,  1°  30'  N.  July 
29,  1862. 

1.  Convolvulacea  dubia  (cf.  Hygrocharis,  DC.,  Prod,  ix.,  461).  Minute  plant,  with 
snow-white  flowers,  growing  flatly  on  the  ground  in  plantain-groves ; rootlets 
come  from  the  stem,  and  the  seed-vessel  turns  into  the  ground  after  the  corolla 
falls  off.  July,  1862.  Equator.  (529.) 

LIV.  SOLANACEiE. 

1.  Lycopersicum  esculentum,  Don. — Tomato.  7°  27'  S. ; and  near  swamps,  4°  to  5° 
S.  Natives  surprised  at  our  eating  them.  (91.) 

1.  Solarium  nigrum,  L.  ; black  nightshade ; scarlet-berried ; leaves  made  into  spin- 

age.  4°  18'  S.,  1°  42'  S.,  and  28°  N. 

2.  S.  sp.  ; common  by  waste  fields,  6°  S.,  33°  E.  Alt.  3800  ft. 

3.  S.  sp. ; foot  high ; mauve  flowers ; prickly  toothed  leaves ; stem  covered  with  a 

3 to  6 stellate  pubescence,  not  edible.  By  huts,  1°  46'  N.  Nov.,  1862.  (605.) 

4.  S.  Melongena , L.  Egg-plant ; “ Brinjall gardens  of  the  Arabs,  5°  S.  (68^.) 
1.  Wuhania  somnifera,  Dun.  ; many-seeded,  with  scarlet  berries  in  a loose  envelope. 

Sultan  of  Ukuni,  at  4°  S.,  had  its  roots  hung  over  his  door  in  the  idea  that  it 
brought  him  many  welcome  visitors ; Nubians  have  some  faith  in  it  as  a medi- 
cine; near  huts,  3°  15' N.  Dec.  10,  1862.  (674.) 

1.  Physalis  angulata ; leaves  used  as  a vegetable ; by  huts,  2°  N.  1862. 

1.  Scopolia  Datora,  Dun.  (called  “Thatoora”).  This  plant  was  gathered  to  be 
smoked  by  a man  suffering  from  spitting  blood  and  weak  chest.  They  also 
smoke  it  after  excessive  drinking.  28°  N.  May  24,  1863.  (779.) 

1 . Nicotiana  tabacum,  L. ; seen  cultivated  from  7°  S.  to  4°  N.  Sold  either  as  leaves, 

in  plaited  form,  or  manufactured  into  cakes,  the'  consistence  of  peat ; seldom  or 
never  chewed,  and  rarely  snuffed.  (185.) 

2.  N.  rustica,  L. ; cult,  at  Kartoum  and  farther  N.  April  23, 1863. 

1.  Capsicum  Jrutescens,  L.  ; red  pepper  of  Unyoro.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Datura  stramonium,  L.  ; thorn  apple  (from  fig.  and  notes),  “Nanaha;”  4 ft.  high 
in  gardens,  1°  42'  S.  At  the  coast,  mats  are  made  from  its  fibre.  (154.) 

LV  BORAGINEiE. 

1.  Heliopliytum  Indicum , DC.  ; 7°  20'  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

1.  Heliotropium  Europceum , L.  ; near  cult. ; Nile  banks,  16°  N.  April  16, 1863. 

1.  Coldenia procumbens,  L. ; grows  flatly  on  baked  mud.  3°  15'  N.  Jan.,  1863. 

1.  Echium  longifolium,  Del. ; stings  the  fingers;  by  a well,  15°  N.  March,  1863. 

1.  Cynoglossum  micranthum,  Desf. ; common,  1°  42'  S.  March,  1862.  (456.) 

LVI.  SCROPHULARIACEvE. 

1.  Doratanthera  linearis,  Benth. ; near  cotton  fields,  right  bank  Nile,  16°  N.  April, 
1863. 

1.  Dopatrium  Senegalense,  Benth.  ; grows  in  water  which  lies  on  surface  rocks.  3° 
15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Torenia  pumila,  Benth.  Jan.  14, 1860,  5°  45'  S.,  alt.  4300  ft. ; and  Dec.,  1861, 

1°  42'  S.,  alt.  5500  ft.  Abundant  in  swamps  by  rock  ; its  roots,  eaten  with  salt, 

are  used  as  a gargle.  (122.) 

1.  Herpesles  floribunda,  R.  Br.  ; swamps,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Ilysanthes  sp. ; 6 inches  high ; erect  stem,  with  violet-colored  flowers ; among 

swampy  grasses,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

2.  I.  sp. ; bushy  minute  plant;  on  rocky  ground,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

3.  I.  sp.  ; diminutive ; flowers  white,  red  tinted  inside ; by  rock  and  water.  Alt. 

5500  ft.  1°  42'  S.  1861.  (211.) 

1.  Veronica  anagallis,  L.  ; E.  Coast  Range.  Alt.  4700  ft.  6°  38'  S.  Dec.  19, 1860. 

1.  Scoparia  dulcis,  L.  ; common  in  waste  ground,  5°  1'  S.  Alt.  4000  ft. 

1.  Ramphicarpa  jistulosa,  Benth.  ; dries  black ; swamps  and  meadows,  3°  15'  N. 
Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Cycnium  longiflorum , E.  and  Zey. ; flowers  (both  pink  and  white)  in  tufts  during 
the  very  driest  season ; dries  indigo  color ; E.  Coast  Range.  Nov.,  1860.  Com- 
mon in  dry  localities.  (443.) 


APPENDIX. 


577 


2.  C.sp.n.;  “M’sweera  M’dogo;”  crawling,  white-flowered,  purple-stemmed  plant 
on  bare  open  sandy  heights,  3°  15' N.  Dec.  9, 1862.  Dries  black;  uncommon. 
Wanyamue'zi,  when  bitten  by  a particular  snake,  cure  themselves  by  using  the 
black  fibrous  roots  of  this  plant.  (670.) 

1.  Striga  Senegalensis , Benth.  ; dries  black.  2°  41'  S.  Alt.  4500  ft.  Nov.,  1861. 

(204.) 

2.  S.  hermonthica,  Benth.  ; field  pink  ; common  in  fallow  ground.  Uganda,  Aug., 

1862.  (572.) 

1.  Sopubia  ramosa,  Hocbst.  ; erect,  woody,  pink-flowered  plant  in  grassy  plateaux. 

2°  N.,  Oct.  20,  and  Dec.,  1862.  Wahiyow  extract  salt  water  (for  cooking  pur- 
poses) from  its  ashes ; uncommon.  (594.) 

2.  S.  sp.  n. ; flower  a rich  pink ; leaves  in  whorls  of  filaments ; plant  woody,  and 

tendency  to  purple  ; dry  ground.  Alt.  5500  ft.  1°  42'  S.  Dec.,  1861.  Un- 
common. (411.) 

1.  Scrophulanacea  dubii  generis ; purple  plant,  with  filiform  leaves  and  white  flowers ; 
stem  smooth,  shiny,  and  woody;  near  water,  1°  42'  S.  Alt.  5000  ft.  Feb., 
1862.  (402.) 

LVII.  LENTIBULARIEAiE. 

1.  Utricularia  sp. ; yellow  flowering  floater ; marshes,  2°  N.  Aug.,  1862. 

2.  U.  sp.  (near  U.Stellaris).  2°  N.  Oct.  and  Nov.,  1861. 

LVIII.  BIGNONIACEA3. 

1.  Stereospermum  sp.  ; “Mololo”  (Kin.);  3 ft.  circ.  tree;  in  full  pink-white  bloom, 

3°  15'  N.  Jan.  26, 1863.  Seed-vessel  an  18-inch  long,  round,  purpled,  silvery- 
spotted  pod,  like  a whip-snake ; sand-bees  make  their  cocoons  from  its  delicate 
leaves;  frequent  by  water ; wood  useless.  (750.) 

2.  S.  discolor,  R.  Br.  This  ordinary-sized  tree  ornaments  the  hill-sides  at  6°-7°  S. 

with  its  rich  blossom,  perfuming  the  air  to  some  distance.  Alt.  1200  ft.  1860. 

1 . Spathodealcevis?  P.  Beauv.  (leaf  only) ; Madi.  Dec.,  1862.  Resembles  Kigelia; 

3 ft.  circ.  tree,  with,  file-surfaced,  compressed,  dry,  serrate-edged  leaves. 

2.  S.  sp.  (near  S.  campanulata ) ; 4 ft.  circ.  20  ft.  high  tree,  with  clusters  of  the  most 

brilliant  scarlet  flowers  tipping  its  densely-foliaged  branches ; thornless  ; in  for- 
ests near  springs  ; about  2°  N.  only.  Sept.  8, 1862.  (571.) 

3.  S.  sp.  (no  specimen ; from  fig.  and  notes) ; pods  24  in.  long,  yellow,  velvet-feeling, 

with  a double  row  of  seeds;  flowers  yellow;  low  grounds,  1°  42'  S.  (427.) 

1.  Kigelia  pinnata,  DC.;  “M’sankwa”  (Kin.);  “Malegtea”  (Kis.);  every  where; 
Wanyamue'zi  polish  their  spear-handles  with  its  leaves  and  sand  ; they  roast  and 
eat  its  seeds  in  famines ; an  elastic  wood,  used  for  bows.  (23.) 

LIX.  PEDALIACE2E. 

1.  Sesamum  Indicum,  L.  ; “ Mafoot’a ;”  article  of  food ; cult,  from  4°  18'  S.  to  2°  N. 

(more  or  less)  for  its  oil,  also  to  be  eaten  toasted,  or  to  flavor  potherbs.  (74.) 

2.  S.  sp.  n. ; in  rank  vegetation  attains  a height  of  8 feet,  growing  like  the  foxglove ; 

. common  in  moist  places,  5°  S.,  2°  41'  S.  Alts.  3000  and  4000  ft.  (201.) 

3.  S.  sp. ; pink  flowers  ; 18  in.  high ; in  dry  woods ; stunted-like ; 6°  55'  S.  Alt. 

3800  ft.  Mohonyera,  Oct.,  1860,  etc. 

4.  S.  sp.  (near  last) ; purple  flowers  ; common,  5°  S.  1860. 

LX.  SELAGINEiE. 

1.  Hebenstreitia  dentata,  L. ; Coast  Range,  6°  38'  S.  Alt.  4700  ft.  Dec.,  1860. 
LXI.  ACANTHACEiE. 

1.  Thunbergia  atriplicifolia,  E.  Mey. ; orange-yellow  flowers.  E.  Coast  Range,  6°  38’ 

S.  Alt.  4700  ft.  Dec.,  1860. 

2.  T.  alata,  Boj. ; twines  round  grasses ; uncommon,  2°  N.  July  29, 1862.  (534.) 
1.  Nelsonia  tomentosa,  R.  Br.  ; common  about  waste  fields,  7°  25'  S. 

1.  Brilliantaisia  sp. ; 6 ft.  high,  4 to  6 in.  circ. ; thick-jointed,  regularly-squared  stem, 

with  large,  lilac-spotted  flowers ; rare  ; Uganda  and  Unyoro ; near  cult.  Sept. 
27, 1862.  (583.) 

2.  B.  sp.  (cf.  B.  Vogeliana,  Benth. ; aromatic  smelling-plant,  among  rank  vegetation 

in  low  grounds,  7^°  S.  Alt.  896  ft.  1860. 

1.  Calophanes  radicans?  mashed  and  mixed  with  Alysicarpus  Wallichii,  and  hot  wa- 

O o 


578 


APPENDIX. 


ter  added,  makes  a soothing  wash  for  swollen  limbs.  2°  41'  S.  ; low  grounds. 
Feb.,  1862.  (436.) 

1.  Hygrophila  sp.  ; erect  purple  stem  and  flowers ; calyx,  after  throwing  off  the  co- 

rolla, becomes  black.  By  water,  2°  42'  S.  Feb.,  1862.  (404.) 

2.  H.  spinosa,  T.  And.  ; three  varieties  observed,  all  probably  the  same  plant — one  a 

dwarf  on  meadow  ground,  3°  15'  N. ; 2d,  3 ft.  high,  near  cultivation,  4°  18'  S.  ; 
and  3d,  a 10  ft.  high,  10  in.  circumference  plant,  cultivated  inside  the  hut  inclos- 
ures, 3°  15'  N.,  for  the  salt  its  ashes  produce.  (582,  589.) 

1.  Ruel/ia patula?  Jacq. ; diminutive;  open  grounds,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

2.  R.  sp.  (cf.  cyanea  and  prostrata ) ; blue  flowers ; stem  rather  woody ; growing  on 

the  steep  banks  of  the  Nile  among  rocks  and  grasses,  about  2°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 
Servants  have  eaten  this  plant  as  a spinage  at  Chogwe  Hills,  on  E.  coast  of 
Africa.  (665.) 

1.  Phaylopsis  longifolia,  Sims. ; rocky  heights  in  shade,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1 . Barleria  sp.  ; spiny,  diminutive  plant ; loc.  forgotten.  1860. 

2.  B.  sp.  ; dry  ground,  7°  10'  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

1.  Crossaridra  sp. ; foot  high,  with  pale  scarlet  flowers,  in  patches  under  deep  shade, 
by  water,  3°  15'  N.,  Dec.,  1862  ; and  on  rocky  soil  of  Usui,  Nov.,  1861.  (685 

and  135.) 

1.  Lepidaqatkis  mollis,  T.  And. ; inflorescence  in  balls  of  florets  at  leaf-axles.  3° 
15' N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Blepharis  edulis,  Pers.  This  was  the  only  vegetation  found  on  the  firm  sand  des- 
ert behind  Meroe,  16°  50'  N.  April  2, 1863. 

1.  Acanthus  arboreus,  Forsk.  var .pubescens ; grows  from  4 to  19  ft.  high  ; flowers  pink, 
and  handsome;  low  moist  grounds  generally.  2°  S.  to  1°  N.  1861-62.  (136.) 

1.  Justicia  blepharostegia,  E.  Mey. ; rose-pink  flowers.  1°42'S.  Feb.,  1862.  (433.) 

2.  J.  ? sp.  (cf.  J. palustris) ; by  vegetation;  Unyoro,  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862.  (494  and 

603.) 

3.  J.  sp. ; 10  inches  high  ; in  tufts  all  over  the  bare  hills  of  Karagtie ; 1°  42'  S. ; 

flowers  yellow.  Dec.  2, 1861.  (213.) 

4.  J.  ( Rostellaria ) sp.  ; eaten  as  spinage  by  the  Expedition,  but  not  appreciated.  5° 

50'  S.  Alt.  4000  ft. 

5.  J.  sp. ; woody  hardy  plant  with  white  flowers ; E.  Coast  Range,  6°  38'  S.  Alt. 

4700  ft. 

6.  J.  neglecta?  T.  And. ; climber;  common  near  huts,  among  tall  grasses ; with  pret- 

ty pink  flowers ; 2°  N.  1862. 

7.  J.  sp.  (near  last).  7^°  S.  Oct.,  1860. 

8.  J.  sp.  (near  J.  anselliana') ; among  grasses  of  Madi  swamps,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 
1.  Schwabea  ciliaris,Bees.  Common  in  low  grounds,  near  rocks.  3°  15' N.  Dec., 

1862. 

1.  Dicliptera  bupleuroides,  Nees  ; pink-flowered,  common  on  light  stony  ground.  3° 
15' N.  Dec.,  1862. 

LXH.  VERBENACEiE. 

1.  Lippia  sp.  (from  fig.  and  notes ; no  specimen) ; flower  diminutive  and  yellow.  1° 

42'  S/  Feb.,  1862.  (438.) 

2.  L.  sp. ; common  near  cultivation,  2°  N.  Sept.,  1862. 

1.  Lantana  sp.  (from  fig.  and  notes) ; 3 to  5 ft.  high  ; flowers  rose-pink ; ripe  berries 
rich  purple,  and  tasting  like  junipers.  Karagtie  Hills,  1°  42'  S.  Dec.,  1861. 
(158.) 

1.  Premna  simensis?  Klotszch;  5°  S.  1860. 

1.  Clerodendron  cordifolium,  Rich.;  handsome  twining  plant ; green  calix  becomes  a 

dull  purple  after  the  corolla  has  fallen  off.  Sept.  3, 1862,  and  Dec.,  1862.  2°- 

3°  N.  (566  and  676.) 

2.  C.  sp.  n. ; handsome  2 ft.  high  shrub,  with  clusters  of  white  flowers ; young  shoots 

have  rich  purple  velveting, over  them.  The  Wanyambo  suck  their  plantain  wine 
through  tubes  of  this  shrub,  calling  them  “Meereej’a.”  1°  43'  S.  Alt.  5000 
ft.  March,  1862.  (461.) 

1.  Cyclonema  sp.  ; light-purple  flowers ; berry  black  ; common  on  wastes,  2°  41'  S. 
Nov.,  1861.  (203.) 

1.  Vitex  sp.  (near  one  of  Barter’s) ; “ M’thalassee ;”  bush-sized,  with  oblong,  smooth- 
surfaced, acrid,  yellowish  drupes  growing  from  the  axles  of  the  stalked  leaves, 
which  are  simple  and  in  whorls  of  threes.  Madi,  3°  15'  N.  Feb.  5,  1863.  Has 
a rich  perfume  about  it.  (701.6.) 


APPENDIX. 


579 


2.  V.  sp. ; trunk  4 to  5 ft.  circumference,  with  inch-long,  reddish-yellow,  acrid,  one- 

stoned  drupe ; leaves  ternate,  toothed,  and  longly-stalked ; branch  bark  red ; 
wood  very  brittle.  3°  15'  N.  Woods.  Dec.,  1862.  (619.) 

3.  V.  sp.  ( = 5 of  Livingstone,  or  V.  umbrosa,  Don)  “M’foo;”  very  handsome  um- 

brageous tree ; fruit  (procurable  throughout  the  year)  a plum,  date-size,  damson- 
colored,  and  tasting  pleasantly  ; difficult  to  clean  the  stone ; a light  wood,  made 
into  drums.  Forests,  3°  58'  S. ; 2|°N.  Oct.,  1861, 1862.  (81.) 

LXIII.  LABIAT2E. 

1.  Ocimum  canum,  L.  ; near  cult.  “ Toolsie”  of  India.  2°  N.  Aug.,  1862. 

1.  Moschosma polystuchyum,  Benth. ; Nile  banks,  5°  N.  Feb.  28, 1863. 

1.  Acrocephalus  villosus,  Benth.  ; 3 ft.  high  ; honey-bee  very  fond  of  its  pale  lilac 

flowers;  beds  of  this  weed  by  huts,  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862.  (585.) 

2.  A.  sp. ; hardy,  slightly-scented  plant,  with  flowers  and  bracts  lilac;  the  midribs 

of  the  large  bractese  are  green.  2°  41'  S.  1861.  (139.) 

3.  A.  sp. ; 2 to  3 ft.  high  ; blue-flowered,  handsome  plant ; the  broad  bracte®  are  all 

lilac  white,  except  their  veins,  which  are  green ; in  patches  on  low  light  soil,  by 
water ; salt  is  said  to  be  extracted  from  its  ashes.  2J°  N ; forest  of  Ukidi,  Nov. 
26,  1862.  (632.) 

1.  Plectranthus  sp. ; erect-growing  plant  in  water-cuts  of  hills,  1°  42'  S.  Flowers 

white,  diminutive,  with  pink  spots.  Dec.,  1861.  (385.) 

2.  P.  sp. ; delicate  erect  plant,  with  fibrous  root.  5°  S.  1860. 

3.  P.  sp.  ; grows  in  patches  in  flat  ground  near  Madi  burn,  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

4.  P.  sp. ; loves  moisture  on  tops  and  in  crevices  of  boulders.  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Coleus  barbatus,  Benth.  ; blue  flowers  and  stem  ; leaves  smell  strongly  of,  but 

more  richly  than,  ripe  guavas ; natives  consider  sitting  muffled  up  over  its  burn- 
ing leaves,  and  inhaling  their  smoke,  an  immediate  cure  for  fever ; grows  in 
Euphorbia  hedges,  4°  18'  S.  ; and  1°  42'  S.  1861.  (73-) 

2.  C.  sp. purple-flowered,  heavy-smelling  plant;  by  cult.,  2°  N.  Oct.  15,  1862. 

(588.) 

1.  Hoslundia  decumbens,Henth.  Zanzibar.  Sept.,  1860. 

1.  Pycnostachys  n.  sp. ; occasionally  in  moist  dips  of  forest,  2J°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

2.  P.  sp. ; sides  of  the  Nile ; among  rushes.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  uPolanthus  n.  sp.  ? showy-looking  plant;  in  dry  open  ground,  5J°  S.  Alt.  4000 

ft.  1861. 

2.  JE.  sp. ; lilac  flowers  growing  on  one  side  of  stalk ; creeps,  throwing  up  erect 

stems ; sweet-scented ; found  on  bare  surface  rocks,  amid  2 ft.  high  grasses,  on 
forest  heights,  1°  42'  S.  Nov.,  1861.  (150  and  458.) 

3.  sE.  sp.  ; stem  black,  as  if  fire  had  scorched  it.  Bocks  of  Madi,  3°  15'  N.  Dec., 

1862. 

4.  AE.  sp.  ; resembles  No.  2 ; surface  rocks.  Aug.,  1862.  2°  N. 

1.  Hyptis  pectinata,  Poir.  ; weed  by  the  village  fences,  3°  15'  N.,  21st  Dec.,  1862,  and 

near  water,  Zungomero,  7°  27'  S.,  1860.  Strong  aroma  from  the  leaves.  (24.) 

2.  H.  brevipes,  Poir.  ; florets  are  massed  in  the  form  of  a ball ; low  grounds,  about 

3°  15' N.  Dec.,  1862. 

3.  H.  spicigera,  Lam. ; “Neeno  ;”  cultivated  by  the  natives  of  Gani,  at  3°  N.,  as  a 

grain,  and  eaten  roasted  by  them  ; they  also  extract  oil  from  it ; seeds  both  black 
and  white.  Dec.,  1862.  Plant  smells  strongly. 

4.  27.  ? sp. ; 4 ft.  high ; covered  densely  with  yellow  florets,  and  smelling  like  a sweet 

herb;  rare  to  find  leaves  on  the  stem;  dry  woods  of  Madi,  3°  15'  N.  Dec., 
1862.  Frequent ; root  deeply  set  in  the  ground.  (732.) 

1.  Leucas  martinicensis,  R.  Br.  ; near  fields,  4°  18'  S.  1861.  (181.) 

2.  L.  (§  Loxostoma)  n.  sp. ; 2 to  3 ft.  high,  covered  with  soft  pubescence ; flowers 

white.  Near  water,  1°  42'  S.,  and  3°  N.  Feb.,  1862.  (413.) 

1.  Leonotis  sp.  (from  fig.  and  notes) ; 3 to  5 ft.  high,  with  scarlet  flowers ; common 
by  cult.,  4°  S.  to  2°  N.  (423.) 

1.  Labiatarum,  novum  genus ; woody,  straight,  4 to  6 ft.  high,  purple-flowered  plant; 
on  the  grassy  banks  of  Madi  burn,  3°  15'  N.  The  four  seeds  are  protected  by 
an  enveloping  calyx,  and  feathered  white  in  a beautiful  manner.  Frequent  in 
forests.  (705.) 

LXIY.  PLUMB AGINE2E.  . 

1.  Plumbago  Zeylanica,  L.  ; diminutive  white  flowers;  seems  to  survive  the  dryest 
season  ; stem  very  clammy ; E.  Coast  Range,  6°  30'  S.  Alt.  4000  ft.  17th 
Dec.,  1860. 


580 


APPENDIX. 


LXV.  PROTEACEAE. 

1 .  Protea  sp. ; “M’zaza”  (Kin.)  ; “ King’eezee”  (Kihiyow)  ; tree  20  in.  in  girth  and 
10  ft.  high ; leaves  grow  obliquely  to  the  stems ; flower  sunflower  size,  and  rich 
white  in  color,  opening  to  the  sun.  Natives  say  where  this  tree  is  in  abundance, 
copal  is  also  found.  Wood  useless,  except  as  a brilliant  firewood ; leaves  make 
a spinage  in  dearths,  and  black  ants  are  fond  of  them.  Madi  woods  Dec 
1862.  (673.) 

LXYI.  SALVADORACEJE. 

1.  Salvadora  Persica,L.  ; “Arak”  (Turk.);  large  bush;  wood  makes  tooth-scrub- 
bers for  natives.  Nile  banks  in  any  quantity  at  7°  N.  March,  1863. 

LXVII.  POLYGONACEiE. 

1.  Rumex  obtusifolius,  L.  ; near  moisture,  6°  38'  S.,  E.  Coast  Range.  Dec.,  1860. 

2.  R.  Abyssinicus,  Jacq.  ; grows  12  ft.  high  near  cultivation,  2°  N.,  among  grasses. 

Nov.,  1862.  Also  1°  42'  S.  People  of  Fipa,  at  8°  S.,  are  said  to  eat  its  leaves. 
(418  and  625.) 

3.  R.  Maderensis,  Lowe ; 10  to  12  ft.  high  ; in  hedges ; leaves  much  eaten  away.  4° 

18'  S.  1861.  (77.) 

1.  Polygonum  barbatum,  L.  ; moist  places,  E.  Coast  Range.  Nov.,  1860. 

2.  P.  sp. ; flowers  and  stem  pink  and  pink-streaked  ; anthers  blue ; seeds  are  star- 

like  prickles ; leaf-bases  sheath  the  stem.  1°  42' S.  Feb.,  1862.  (437.) 

3.  P.  tomentosum,  Willd.  Nile  banks,  Nov.,  1862  ; and  8°  N.,  March,  1863. 

LXVIII.  NYCTAGINEiE. 

1.  Boerhaavia  sp.  (near  B.  paniculata ) ; foot  high ; diminutive  pink  flowers,  with  erect 

purple  stem  and  jointed  branches  ; leaves  grow  flatly  on  the  ground ; root  car- 
rot-shape. The  roots  are  eaten  in  famines  by  the  Waliiyow ; in  cleared  ground, 
2°  N.  July,  1862.  (540.) 

2.  B.  grandiflora , Rich. ; straggling  plant.  Alt.  4700  ft.  6°  30'  S. 

LXIX.  CIIENOPODIACEJE. 

1.  Chenopodiuni  album,  L.  ; uncommon;  fallow  ground,  2°  N.  Nov., 1862.  (609.) 

2.  C.  botrys,  L. ; 2 to  6 ft.  high  ; smells  medicinally  ; its  leaves  and  flowers,  pounded 

into  flour,  are  applied  to  eruptions  on  the  legs  ; extremely  handsome  in  its  bright 
red  autumnal  colors ; about  houses  and  fields,  1°  42'  S.,  March  5,  1862 ; and 
2°  41'  S.  (200  and  465.) 

LXX.  AMARANTACEJE. 

1.  Celosia  argentea,  L. ; 4 ft.  high,  with  salmon-colored  flowers  ; the  stem  of  the  sea- 

son falls  down  and  takes  root ; near  cult.,  Uganda,  and  2°  N.  July,  1862. 
(531.) 

2.  C.  trigyna,  L. ; potherb;  by  huts.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Amarantus  caudatus,  L. ; Love  lies  bleeding;  carmine  flowers  and  pink-veined 

leaves ; grown  near  huts  for  medicinal  purposes — natives  boiling  the  stems  and 
leaves,  washing  the  head  with  the  infusion,  and  rubbing  the  powder  of  its  charred 
roots  into  cuts  made  in  the  temples,  to  cure  headaches.  1°  42'  S.,  1°  to  3°  N. 
(449.) 

2.  A.  blitum,  L. ; wild  amaranth  (no  specimen ; fig.  and  description);  flowers  white ; 

3 to  5 ft.  high ; near  huts,  in  rank  vegetation,  1°  42'  S.  and  3°  N.  April,  1862. 
(493.) 

1.  JErua  lanata,  Juss.  ; potherb;  grows  prettily  over  huts  like  an  ivy,  7|-°  S.  and 

2°  N.  Nov.,  1862,  etc. 

2.  JE.  Javanica,  Juss. ; on  shingle  desert  near  Berber,  17|°  N.  Not  met  with  till  in 

these  latitudes.  14^°  N.  March  and  April,  1 863. 

1.  Achyranthes  aspera,  L.  ; about  huts,  4°  18'  S.,  March,  1863.  (184.)  The  same 

(monstrous,  768) ; 4 to  6 ft.  high ; Nile  edge,  7°  N.  Its  root  mashed,  put  in 
hot  water,  and  applied  as  a poultice  to  Bombay’s  ear,  brought  a discharge,  and 
cured  him  of  temporary  deafness. 

1.  Digera  arvensis,  Forsk. ; by  a well,  Nile  bank,  17J°  N.  March,  1863. 

1 . Amarantacearum,  novum  genus ; about  cornfields  of  Mininga,  4°  18'  S.  March, 
1861.  (179.) 


APPENDIX. 


581 


LXXI.  PHYT0LACCACEA3. 

1 .  Phytolacca  Abyssinica,  Mey. ; bush  with  scarlet  berries,  whose  pulp  colors  cloth  or 
the  fingers  gamboge.  1°  42'  S.  Alt.  5000  ft.  Dec.,  1861.  (217.) 


LXXII.  TIIYMELA',  ACE7E. 

1 .  Gnidia  involucrata,  Steud. ; 3 ft.  high ; on  bare  heights  of  Madi,  3°  15'  N.  Dec., 
1862. 


LXXIII.  EUPHORBIACE2E. 

1 . Euphorbia  hypericifolia,  L.  ; its  juices,  rubbed  upon  a snare,  are  supposed  to  at- 

tract Guinea-fowl.  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862.  (602.) 

2.  E.  sp.  ( Bracteis  longecaudatis ),  5 ft.  high,  bush  growing  in  light  soil,  Unyanyembe. 

5°  S.  1861. 

3.  E.  antiquorum,  L.  (no  specimen);  “M’toopa;”  tree  3 to  4^  ft.  in  girth,  with  four 

to  six  angled  12  in.  circ.  boughs ; common  over  the  whole  route  as  fences,  soli- 
tary trees,  etc.,  and  dotting  the  bare  hills  of  Karague.  Alt.  5000  ft.  The  Bari 
people,  at  4J°  N.,  tried  to  poison  the  running  streams  with  its  branches  as  we 
marched  through ; its  milk  is  used  as  a glue.  (151.) 

4.  E.  tirucalli?  L.  “M’nyal’a;”  a dense  fence  of  this  tree-sized  bush  surrounds 

nearly  all  the  villages  in  the  Land  of  the  Moon,  growing  often  to  twenty  odd 
feet  high ; a variety  creeps  over  rocks.  The  milk  is  used  for  poisoning  fish.  7° 

S.  to  3±°  N.  (151^  and  675.) 

5.  E.  sp. ; 10  ft.  high,  bushy,  with  marked  leaves ; flowers  small,  in  red  panicles ; 

drips  with  milk ; rare;  only  seen  at  3°  15' N.,  by  villages.  Eeb.,1862.  This 
specimen,  not  having  died,  is  now  growing  at  Kew.  (754.) 

1.  Acalypha  crenata,  Hochst.  ( =Indica , L.)  ; by  cult.,  5°  S.  and  2°  N.  Aug.,  1863. 

(545.) 

2.  A.  villicaulis,  Hochst. ; pink  pistils,  much  branched. 

3.  A.  sp.  ; brushwood  on  bank  of  Madi  burn.  Dec.,  1862. 

4.  A.  sjj.  ; “ M’cmtte  ;”  its  wands  of  great  length  and  uniform  thickness,  with  reddish 

or  hazel  bark,  are  made  into  strong  trays  and  baskets  by  the  people  of  Unyoro, 
2°  N. ; also  by  rivulets,  1°  42' S.  Nov.,  1861.  (161  and  625|.)  The  roots  are 
chewed,  but  have  no  taste. 

5.  A.  sp.  Karagtie,  1°  42'  S.  Nov.,  1861. 

6.  A.  sp.  ; M’bwiga,  7°  24'  S.  Alt.  1350  ft.  ; overhanging  water. 

1.  Tragia  cordata,  Vahl.  ; “ M’wavee ;”  nasty  stinging  climber,  paining  for  a longer 
time  than  the  nettle ; by  water  in  thicket,  1°  42'  S.  Alt.  5000  ft.  Dec.  6, 1861. 
(388.) 

1.  Ricinus  communis,  L. ; castor  oil;  found  every  where  near  dwellings;  oil  for  un- 
guents or  itch  is  expressed  ; no  case  observed  of  its  having  been  used  internally. 
The  leaves  have  virtues  among  natives.  (121.) 

1.  Croton  sp.  (near  tilifolium) ; “M’poe&o;”  30  in.  circ.  tree,  with  soft,  beech-tree 
looking  bark;  in  shady,  moist  ground,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862.  Inflorescence  a 
panicle  of  a half  inch  diameter ; spherical  seed-vessels,  whose  stalks  are  covered 
with  a dry  red  dust ; immense  leaves,  swelling  somewhat  like  celery ; no  uses 
known;  not  common.  (706.) 

1.  Crozophora  plicata,  A.  Juss. ; small  pink  flowers ; grows  flat  on  dry  clay,  Nile 
edges,  16°  N.  March  16, 1863. 

1.  Jatroplia  sp. ; foot  high  ; root  firmly  set  in  the  ground ; a yellow  or  gamboge  col- 
or exudes  at  incisions,  shining  on  paper  after  becoming  dry  ; seed-vessel  (unripe) 
with  three  hard-rinded  seeds ; uncommon ; near  stream,  3°  15'  N.  Jan.  2, 
1863.  (736.) 

1.  Manihot  utilissirna,  var.  heterophylla ; “Mahogo;”  the  staple  food  of  Zanzibar  peo- 
ple, where  some  kinds  can  be  eaten  raw,  boiled,  fried,  roasted,  or  in  flower ; not 
met  with  between  the  equator  and  15°  N.,  4°  18’  S.,  etc.  (68.) 

1.  Anisonema  multijlorum ; by  water,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Phyllanthus  niruri , L.  ; by  dwellings,  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862. 

1.  Cluytia  lanceolata,  Forsk. ; shrub  by  water,  1°  42' S.  Feb.,  1862.  (421  and  479.) 

1.  Briedelia  sp.  ; Madi,  rocky  heights.  Feb,,  1862. 

2.  B.  sp. ; branches  have  blunt  thorns,  and  grow  level  and  thickly ; Madi  burn,  3° 

15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Hymenocardia  Heudelotii,  Planch. ; 30  in.  circ.  tree,  with  brittle  wood ; “M’pala- 
nyonga.”  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862.  (733.) 


582 


APPENDIX. 


LXXIV.  CEEATOPHYLLEvE. 

1.  Ceratophyllum  sp. ; water  plant;  Nile,  2°  N.  Oct.,  1862. 

LXXV.  SALICINEA5. 

1.  Salix  AEgyptiaca,  L. ; Glierri  Pass,  by  edge  of  Nile,  16°  N.  March,  1863. 
LXXYI.  ULMACEiE. 

1.  Celiis  integrifolia ; “M’Lseweh;”  12  ft.  girth,  thickly-foliaged,  handsome  tree. 
The  natives  of  Eipa  are  said  to  make  necklaces  from  its  seeds.  3°  30'  N.  Feb., 
1863.  (753.) 

LXXVII.  URTICACEjE. 

1.  Urtica  dioica?  L. ; 3 ft.  high  by  borders  of  Lake  Windermere,  1°  40'  S.,  where 
its  2-ft.  long  tapering  roots  are  used  medicinally ; at  2°  N.  found  it  by  habita- 
tions growing  7 ft.  high.  (392  and  470.) 

1.  Fleurya  cestuans  ? On  rock  under  shade  of  tree,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862.  (703.) 

1.  Cannabis  sativa,  L.  ; “Bhang;”  grows  5 ft.  high  near  cottage  dung-heaps  in  the 

Land  of  the  Moon,  where  the  men  whoop  and  scream  loudly  while  smoking  it. 
4°  18'  S.  April,  1861.  (75.) 

1 .Ficus  sycamorus,  L. ; Sycamore  fig;  “M’Kooyoo;”  bark-cloths  are  sometimes 
made  from  young  trees  of  it ; found  along  the  whole  route ; also  in  Egypt,  at 
Schendi.  April,  1863.  Yields  a birdlime  for  the  natives. 

2.  F.  riparia,  Hochst.  ; leaves  rounded,  and  dessert-plate  size.  (40.) 

3 . F.  sp. ; 12  ft.  circ.  ; leaves  lanceolate ; rich,  sweet,  pear-shaped,  half-inch  diame- 

ter fruit.  Jan.  and  Feb.,  1863.  (752.) 

4.  F.  Kotschyana?  Miq. ; “M’koo;”  trunk  12  to  20  ft.  circ.,  with  huge  boughs; 

several  barks  can  be  stripped  off  a single  individual  of  this  genus  for  bark-cloths, 
without  injuring  the  tree,  if  the  bare  part  be  for  a time  wrapped  round  with 
plantain  leaf,  or  otherwise  protected,  until  a fresh  bark  has  grown ; this  tree 
also  affords  short  ropes.  5°  S.  to  3°  30'  N.  (636.) 

5.  F.  sp.  ( F . glumosoR  proxime  affinis  sed  glaber );  “M’chajras  ;”  5 ft.  in  girth,  with 

reddish,  globular,  minute  figs  in  leaf-axles ; also  a bark-cloth  and  rope  tree.  6° 
S.  to  3°  15'  N.  (689.)  Birdlime  gathered  from  its  trunk. 

6.  F.  virgata?  Roxb. ; branches  erect,  and  very  rough-surfaced  leaves.  3°  15'  N. 

Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Planta  exogena  anomala  dioica  (male  flowers  only);  woody  shrub  ; “Boss”  rock, 
6°  4'  S.  Alt.  4068  ft.  Dec.  28, 1860. 

LXXVIII.  ORCIIIDE2F, 

1 . Lissocldlus  sp. ; yellow-flowering  plant ; by  water;  East  Coast  Range.  Alt.  4700 

ft.  6°  38'  S.  . 

2.  L.  sp. ; 5 ft.  high,  with  yellow  flowers,  and  unbranched,  erect  stem ; Karague,  2° 

40'  S.  March,  1862.  (463.) 

1.  Angraecuni?  sp. ; in  fruit;  found  upon  a Kigelia;  leaves  speckled  with  black; 
each  seed-vessel  has  a long  withered  appendagb  attached ; roots  uniform,  with 
a yellow  strong  string  in  their  centre.  Some  natives  consider  these  parasites  a 
remedy  for  ophthalmia,  by  mashing  them  in  water,  and  washing  the  whole  body 
and- eyes  externally  with  the  liquid.  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862.  (716.) 

1.  AnselUa  sp.  ; found  in  thick  clusters. on  lofty-stemmed  trees ; M’bwiga,  7°  30'  S. 
Oct.,  1860.  Alt.  1200  ft.  Flowers  yellow ; zebra-barred  inside.  Uhiyow  men 
know  it  by  the  name  of  ‘ ‘ Mitoolo,  ” and  use  its  jointed  roots  medicinally. 

1.  Polystachya  sp. ; growing  upon  Angrtecum ; root  like  a small  onion  ; linear,  6-in. 
long  leaves.  Dec.,  1862.  (715.) 

LXXIX.  SCITAMINEiE. 

1.  Amomum  sp.  (leaves  and  seeds).  The  scarlet  underground  fruit  of  Uganda,  and 
2h°  N.  Each  is  the  size  and  shape  of  a small  plantain ; four  or  five  of  those 
adhere  to  one  common  short  stalk,  growing  underground  at  the  root  of  the  stem, 
until  ripe,  when  they  push  up  the  earth  like  moles.  The  scarlet  peel  and  an  in- 
ner white  membrane  are  thrown  away,  while  the  pulp  round  the  apple-like  seeds 
is  sucked , tasting  like  a lime,  and  said  to  be  refreshing  in  fevers ; roots,  in  joints, 
grow  creepingly,  sending  up  and  down  shoots  and  roots.  The  Waganda  string 
the  fruit  into  necklaces.  Grows  4 ft.  high,  in  rather  dry  ground,  among  tall 
grasses;  frequent.  May,  1862.  (631.) 


APPENDIX. 


588 


LXXX.  MTTSACEiE. 

1.  Musa  sapientum,Jj.  (no  specimen);  plantain;  “N’deezee.”  The  staple  food  of 

the  countries  one  degree  on  either  side  of  the  equator,  acres  of  ground  being 
covered  with  its  groves.  There  are  half  a dozen  varieties — the  boiling,  baiting, 
drying,  fruit,  and  wine-making  sorts.  Uses — a chip  from  the  stem  washes  the 
hands,  and  makes  the  wet  flesh-rubber  of  the  Waganda;  thread  and  lashings 
for  loads  are  also  taken  from  the  stem ; rain  is  collected  in  the  green  leaves, 
’ which  can  be  made  into  an  ingenious  temporary  pipe ; the  dry  leaves  make 
screen-fences  and  sacks  to  hold  grain  or  provisions ; the  fruit  dried  (from  Ugi- 
gi)  is  like  a Normandy  pippin ; a variety,  when  green  and  boiled,  is  an  excellent 
vegetable,  while  another  yields  a wine  resembling  Hock  in  flavor ; at  2°  N.  they 
cease  to  be  grown.  (12.) 

2.  M.  ensete?  Bruce;  one  specimen  looking  at  least  10  ft.  circ.  and  only  5 ft.  high, 

growing  outside  a plantain-grove  on  the  equator,  was  fruitless  and  wild,  with 
huge  leaves,  gigantic  diameter,  and  quite  an  oddity,  its  stem  being  only  twice 
the  height  of  its  breadth,  which  seems  the  characteristic  of  this  plant.  Numer- 
ous smaller  ones  grew  >imong  rocks  at  3°  15'  N.  Leaves  coarser  than  the  plan- 
tain, with  midrib  brick-red.  Its  black,  irregular-shaped,  glossy  seed  is  strung 
into  necklaces,  charms,  and  tiaras  by  the  Waganda ; no  other  uses  known  to  our 
men ; goats  seem  fond  of  the  leaves.  (630  and  516.5.) 

LXXXI.  IRIDE2E. 

1.  Gladiolus  sp. ; 2 ft.  high  ; flowers  white,  with  pink  edges,  1°  40'  S.  Alt.  5000  ft. 

March,  1862.  (473.) 

2.  G.  sp. ; flowers  transparent  horn-color ; moist  ground,  5°  50'  S.  Alt.  4000  ft. 

1861. 

3.  G.  sp.  ; 2\  ft.  high,  with  yellow-tinged  flowers ; by  fences  and  moist  places,  5°  50' 

S.  1861. 

4.  G.  sp. ; foot  high,  with  bright  pink  flowers ; grows  in  quantities  by  hedges,  5°  50' 

S.  1861. 

LXXXII.  AMARYLL I DE2E. 

1.  Crinum  sp. ; umbellate  bulbous  lily ; flower-stalk  20  to  24  inches  long,  with  five 
drooping  white  flowers ; a line  of  pink  purple  in  the  centre  of  each  petal ; burn 
bank,  3°  15' N.  Jan.,  1863.  Very  handsome.  (742.) 

1.  Narcissus?  sp.  ; no  specimen ; umbellate,  bulbous ; 8 inches  high;  flowers  white, 
with  a waxy  yellow  corona  ; its  leaves,  tasting  of  onions,  cooked  with  mashed 
ground-nuts,  make  a delicious  spinage ; on  sandy,  moist  places,  about  6°  S. 
Dec.,  1860.  (28.) 

LXXXIII.  HYPOXIDE2E. 

1.  Hypoxis  sp. ; height  6 ft. ; bushes  of  it  grow  where  springs  ooze  from  the  rock  ; 

linear  leaves,  from  the  crown  only  ; stem  4 to  5 ft.  girth  at  base ; the  branches 
break  like  a rotten  stick — vitality  only  showing  in  very  centre ; flowers  withered ; 
seemed  purple.  Dec.,  1860.  Alt.  4068  ft.  “ Boss”  rock,  about  6°  S.  (782.) 

2.  H.  sp. ; bulbous,  with  yellow  flower ; E.  of  Coast  Range.  Oct.,  1860. 

LXXX  TV.  PONTEDERIACEAE. 

1.  Monochoria  natans,  Beauv.  ;.  aquatic  plant,  with  blue  flowers;  floating  leaves  cor- 

date, submerged  ones  linear ; stagnant  water  in  bed  of  stream,  3°  15'  N.  Dec., 
1862.  (726  and  727.) 

2.  M.  sp. ; flowers  white  ; leaves  heart-shaped  ; roots  purple  and  fibrous  ; grows  in 

stagnant  water  and  mud  which  has  lodged  on  rocks,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 
(655.) 

LXXXV.  LILIACE7E. 

1.  Aloe  sp.  (no  specimen  ; from  fig.  and  notes) ; 12  to  15  ft.  high  ; leaves  linear,  ser- 

rated, fleshy,  and  from  the  crown  only ; growing  upon  a sandstone  island,  Urigi 
valley,  about  2°  S.  Nov.,  1861.  (147.) 

2.  A.  sp.  ; inflorescence  branched,  flowers  scarlet,  with  yellow  tips ; leaves  3 ft.  long ; 

surface  marked  with  indistinct  white  streaks ; their  edges  sharply  thorned,  and 
the  juice  smelling  disagreeably.  The  Banians  of  the  coast  cut  its  leaves  into 
small  pieces,  soak  them  in  lime-juice,  put  them  in  the  sun,  and  a pickle  is  formed. 
1°  S.  to  2°  N.,  etc.  (613  and  429.) 


584  APPENDIX. 

1.  Sanseviera  sp. ; small  clusters  of  flowers  grow  upon  the  erect,  branchless  stem ; 
the  long  leaves  yield  the  beautiful  white  ropery  of  Uganda ; generally  found  on 
mounds  of  red  clay  thrown  up  by  white  ants.  (531.) 

1.  Vdtlieimia  sp.  ; inflorescence  an  erect  plume  ; upper  bells  pink,  lower  yellow ; ap- 
pears in  swamps,  after  the  first  burst  of  the  rains.  Alt.  4400  ft.  Natives  col- 
lect its  flowers  for  spinage  ; very  good,  but  too  honey-tasting.  6°  S.  and  1°  N. 
1860-61.  (31.) 

1.  Allium  cepa,  L.  (no  specimen);  (onion);  cult,  by  Arabs  only  at  5°  S. 

1.  Scilla  sp. ; small  white  flowers  and  onion-like  root.  5°  5'  S.  Alt.  3600  ft. 

1.  Urginea?  sp.  ; scaly  bulb;  stem  3 ft.  high,  covered  with  white  flowers,  midribs  of 
sepals  brown  below ; bulb  tasted  nauseous  and  bitter.  The  Men  of  the  Moon 
roast  its  leaves  and  stalks,  and  cook  them  as  spinage ; rocky  ground,  3°  15'  N. 
Dec.,  1862.  (702.) 

1.  Asphodelus  sp. ; common  in  every  marsh,  6°  4'  S.  Dec.,  1860. 

1.  Chlorophytum  sp. ; white  flowers,  in  swamps,  5°  40'  S.  Alt,  3800  ft. 

1.  Asphodelea  indeterminata ; common  in  bogs,  5°  50'.  Alt.  4000  ft. 

2.  A.  indeterminata  (from  fig.  and  notes ; no  specimen  ; stem  3 to  4 ft.  high  ; flowers 

green,  with  white  edges ; leaves  radical.  1°  40'  S.  Feb.,  1862.  (419.) 

1.  Gloriosa  virescens,  Lindl. ; clove  grove,  Zanzibar,  etc.,  and  1°  40'  S.  Feb.,  1862. 
(484.) 

1.  Dracaena  sp. ; “ Mpopo  M’weeto ;”  i.  e.,  wild  beetul,  used  as  fences,  growing  10  ft. 
high,  with  clusters  of  one-seeded  berries  from  tips  of  branches  ; no  resemblance 
to  beetul  palm  seen  at  Zanzibar.  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862.  (612.) 

1.  Asparagus  sp. ; 4 to  5 ft.  high ; very  elegant,  with  white  flowers,  attractive  to  bees ; 
thorned  branches.  Sore  eyes  are  said  to  be  cured  by  chewing  its  roots  with  salt, 
and  squirting  the  liquid  into  the  eyes.  7°  S.,  and  in  every  forest;  a variety  (or 
the  same  ?)  climbs  up  trees  with  its  opposite  branches.  (38.) 

1.  Smilax  Kraussiana,  Meisn.  ; “M’kolol’a;”  3 to  4 ft.  high,  growing  in  patches  in 
open  dry  forest,  clinging  to  any  support  by  its  pair  of  tendrils  ; stem  is  thorned, 
and  dies  every  season ; dried  leaves  have  a rich  flavor  of  prunes ; roots,  deeply 
imbedded,  are  stem-like,  with  knots  showing  the  growth  of  each  year.  Wan- 
yamue'zi  use  its  roots  medicinally.  Sept.,  1861,  and  3°  15'  N.,  Dec.,  1862.  (207 
and  739.5.) 

LXXXVI.  DIOSCOREACEiE. 

1.  Dioscorea  sp.  ; “ Veeazee-koo ;”  yam;  grown  here  and  there  on  mounds;  leaves 

opposite,  with  seven  reticulated  veins ; stem  has  occasional  green  stumpy  thorns 
upon  it.  5°  S.  to  2°  N.  (526.) 

2.  D.  bulbifera,  L. ; climber,  with  alternate  leaves,  having  reticulated  veins,  and 

thornless  stem  ; bulbs  Brazil-nut  size  and  shape ; cutting  like  a potato  when  un- 
ripe, and  eating  pleasantly  boiled.  Plantain-groves,  2°  N.  (151-f,  and  P.  S. 
526.) 

LXXXVII.  COMMELYNACEZE. 

1.  Commelyna  sp. ; sky-blue  flowers  ; spinage  made  from  its  leaves.  Zanzibar,  1860. 

2.  C.  sp. ; 15  in.  high,  with  chocolate-colored  flowers,  on  black  soil,  5°  5'  S.  Alt. 

3600  ft. 

3.  C.  latifolia , Hoclist.  (from  fig.  and  notes  ; no  specimen) ; flowers  blue,  anthers  yel- 

low ; potherb  ; every  where  on  rich  soil  near  huts.  (491.) 

1.  Cyanotis  sp.  (from  fig.  and  notes ; no  specimen)  ; common  in  moist  dips  of  forests. 

(455.) 

2.  C.  Abyssinica,  A.  Rich.  2^°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

3.  C.  longifolia,  Benth.  6°  S.  Alt.  3800  ft. 

1.  Aneilema  sp. ; near  moist  sandy  soil.  5°  S.  to  4°  18'  S.  (165.) 

2.  A.  sp.  ; in  swamps.  6°  S.  Alt.  3800  ft. 

1.  Dithyrocarpus  sp. ; lilac-colored  flowers  ; common  in  bogs,  2J°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 
LXXXVIII.  JUNCACEiE. 

1.  Flagellaria  Indica,  L. ; stem  inch  circ. ; climbing  reed  ; vies  in  height  with  trees, 
leaf-tips  having  tendrils.  Mgreta  River,  7°  20'  S.  1860. 

LXXXIX.  HYDROCHARIDE7E. 

1.  Ottelia  sp. ; water-plant,  with  white  flower  just  above  water.  2£°  N.  Nile,  Nov., 
10, 1862.  (620-5.) 


APPENDIX. 


585 


2.  0.  sp. ; water-plant  with  frilled-edged,  yard-long  leaves ; yellow  flowers,  having 

rather  flattened  stalks,  much  roughed,  or  feeling  like  a file.  Nile,  14^°  N. 
March  19,  1863.  (770.5.) 

3.  0.  sp.  ; in  stagnant  water ; flowers  yellow ; leaves  10  in.  long ; section  of  seed- 

vessel  shows  six  spiral  cells.  3°  15' N.  Dec.,  1862.  (696.) 

1.  Hydrilla  dentata?  (leaves  only);  grows  nearly  submerged,  Nile,  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 
1.  Vallisneria  sp. ; minute  water-plant ; propagates  from  suckers.  Nile  edges,  14J° 
N.  March,  1863. 

XC.  ALISMACEtE. 

1.  Sagittaria  obtusifolia,  Eoxb. ; water-plant.  Nile,  4°  55' N.  Feb.  22,1863.  (767.) 
XCI.  NAIADEiE. 

1.  Aponogeton  sp. ; grows  submerged  ; flowers  alone  above  water ; in  stagnant  wa- 

ter collected  on  rocks,  Ukidi  forests,  2^°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

2.  A.  sp. ; marsh-plant,  with  bright  purple  flowers,  generally  two  on  a stalk.  5°  45' 

S.  Alt.  4377  ft.  Jan.  24, 1863. 

1.  Potamogeton  lucens?  L.  Nile,  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

XCII.  ARACEiE. 

1.  Colocasia  antiquorum;  “Myoog’wah;”  a few  plants  generally  round  or  outside 
the  huts  of  Uganda  and  Unyoro ; also  cultivated  on  the  bank  of  a stream  at 
2°  S. ; petioles  and  leaves  make  a potherb;  Waganda  use  it  for  sore  throat. 
(i49.) 

1 . Auchomanes  Hookeri?  Schott;  “ Yal’wah  ;”  bulb  30  in.  circumference ; one  erect 
3 ft.  high-feathered  stem,  with  curving-down  thorns.  Wanyamuezi  eat  its  bulb 
boiled.  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862.  (712.) 

1.  Amorphophallus?  sp.  ; leaf  only ; 1 ft.  high  ; not  in  flower.  2J°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 
1 . Richardia?  sp.  ; leaf  only ; Madibog;  rare.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Pistia  stratiotes,  L.  ; in  the  beginning  of  March  the  Nile  and  Bahr  Giraffe,  in 
flood,  carry  down  these  floating  rosettes  in  great  quantities  to  about  13°  N.,  be- 
yond which  scarcely  one  is  visible  ; Lake  Windermere  and  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

XCIII.  PALM2E. 

1.  Phoenix  sp. ; wild  date ; clusters  of  them  growing  on  the  hill-sides,  30  and  40  ft. 
high,  with  pendent  bunches  of  Indian  red  fruit ; not  edible  ; no  uses.  Equator 
and  1°  40'  S.  The  edible  date  is  unknown  in  the  countries  traversed — i.e., 
from  8°  S.  to  5°  N. 

1.  Cucos  nucif era,  L. ; cocoa-nut-tree;  very  abundant  at  Zanzibar;  a few  on  the 
main  coast;  and  none  in  the  interior ; “M’nazee.” 

1.  Borassus  AEthiopicus,  Mart. ; Deleb  palm;  “MVoomo;”  young  ones  are  called 
“Meelalla ;”  at  4°  18'  S. ; one  bare  log  measured  37J  ft.  long,  and  greatest  cir- 
cumference 9 ft.  3 in. ; the  leaves  furnished  thatch,  rope,  sieves,  fences,  firewood, 
and  flageolet  reeds;  WanyamUezi  eat  the  roots  boiled  in  famines;  a sweet  in- 
sipid toddy  is  extracted ; very  few  about  the  equator ; plentiful  in  the  Sliillook 
country,  11°  N.,  where  the  natives  make  its  leaves  into  beautiful  strong  white 
baskets  and  mats  for  the  markets  on  the  Nile.  (71.) 

1.  Hyphcene  Thehaica,  Mart.  ; Doom  palm;  “ Mohamma ;”  the  people  of  Berber 

(18°  N.),  etc.,  make  its  leaves  into  coarse  rope,  and  its  trunk  into  beams  and 
posts ; male  trees  very  handsomely  foligaed  ; female  naked  as  poles,  both  often 
branching  three  times ; fruit  eaten  by  donkeys  as  well  as  men  ; a few  on  the  E. 
coast ; none  in  the  interior ; first  observed  Feb.  28, 1863,  at  6°  N.,  where  it  be- 
gins to  be  plentiful. 

2.  H.  n.  sp. ; “Mizanza;”  30  ft.  high  ; never  branching;  leaves  much  resembling 

the  doom,  but  less  spreading ; fruit  (in  immense  clusters,  depending  over  the 
fronds  that  have  withered)  perfect  ellipses,  \\  inches  long,  having  a shining, 
deep  purple,  brittle  skin  inclosing  the  nut,  covered  with  a stringy,  dry,  yellow 
substance ; not  edible  ; male  organs  similar  to,  but  longer  than,  the  doom  ; our 
camel-drivers  collected  its  green  leaves  to  make  shackles  for  their  camels,  as  the 
fibre  does  not  chafe  the  skin  like  the  doom ; one  of  our  men  had  seen  it  grow- 
ing in  Mambweh,  8°  or  9°  S.  lat.  They  were  observed  to  grow  in  desolate  val- 
leys of  desert  sand,  walled  in  with  crags  of  slate,  about  21°  N.  May  9, 1863. 
(777.) 


586 


APPENDIX. 


XCIV.  GRAMINE2E. 

1.  Oryza  sativa,  L.  ; rice  ; not  cultivated  by  the  natives  in  the  interior ; Arabs  grow 
it  for  their  own  consumption,  from  7°  27'  S.  to  4°  18'  S. ; a small  black  cater- 
pillar, appearing  with  the  first  burst  of  rains,  is  often  very  injurious  to  the  young 
plants  ; irrigation  was  not  observed. 

1.  Zea  mays,  L. ; Indian  corn ; grown  in  ridges ; plentiful  from  7°  20'  to  4°  S.  ; but 
very  rare  as  the  equator  is  approached ; and  quite  unknown  beyond  it  north- 
ward to  5°  N. 

1.  Perotis  latifolia,  Ait.  ; 3 ft.  high,  with  rich  purple  awns.  Uganda  plantain-groves, 
July,  1862.  (527.) 

1.  Andropogon  sorghum;  Cafifre  corn;  “Jowar;”  “M’tama;”  or  “Doora;”  more 

or  less  procurable  along  the  whole  route ; the  bitter  red  variety  most  frequently 
grown ; without  it  the  African  could  neither  have  his  beer  nor  his  stirabout. 
This  grain  is  used  by  the  Waganda  to  assist  in  fermenting  their  plantain  wine. 

2.  A.  eucomis,  Nees ; cottony  flower ; marsh,  5°  S.  Alt.  3960  ft. 

3.  A.  sp.  (§  Gymnandropogon)-,  stigmas  rusty ; stalk  a pink  purple;  by  moisture.  Alt. 

3600  ft.  Natives  in  famines  eat  its  millet.  5°  5'  S. 

4.  A.  sp.  paniculata ; 2 ft.  high.  1°  40'  S.  March,  1862.  (486.) 

1.  Saccharum  officinarum,  L.  ; sugar-cane  ; seen  only  on  and  about  the  equator ; the 

red-stalked  variety  most  frequent ; they  make  no  farther  use  of  it  than  eating 
the  cane. 

2.  S.  ? sp.  (no  flowers) ; 4 to  5 ft.  high ; the  grass  used  for  thatch  in  Uganda  and 

Unyoro ; equator,  and  2°  N. 

1.  Cyrnbopogon  ftnitimus,  Hochst.  ; 6 to  7 ft.  high ; covering  the  northern  sporting 

grounds  of  Uganda,  1°  N.  July  17, 1862.  (525.) 

2.  C.  cymbarius,  var. ; 6 ft.  high  ; growing  richly  under  the  shade  of  trees  on  the 

luxuriant  rocky  heights  of  Gani,  3°  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

3.  C.  hirtus ; Nile  banks,  about  5°  N.  March,  1863. 

1.  Anthistiria  sp. ; on  dry  sandy  soil,  near  Tura  nullah,  5°  26'  S.  Alt.  3800  ft. 

2.  A.  imberbis,  Retz. ; 2 to  2\  ft.  high ; the  grass  that  clothes  and  waves  like  corn  on 

the  treeless  hills  of  Karagtle.  Alt.  5000  to  5500  ft.  Dec.,  1861.  Cattle  are 
never  grazed  upon  it.  (417.) 

3.  A.  ciliata,  Retz. ; 2J  ft.  high ; growing  under  trees  in  rich  low  ground  with  great 

luxuriance;  in  famines  the  natives  eat  its  grain.  5°  5'  S.  Alt.  3600  ft. 

1.  Pogonatliermn?  sp.  (leaves  only);  a black  spur  ergot  grows  in  its  stems  when  in 
dry  ground ; this,  or  a variety,  grows  submerged  in  a perfect  network,  which 
supports  a man  or  water  hoc  as  they  plunge  through  it. 

1.  Erianthus  aureus?  Nees;  stigmas  rust-colored;  swamps,  5°  S.  Alt.  3600  ft. 

1.  Vossia  procera,  Griff.  ; back-waters  of  the  Nile,  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Manisurus  granularis,~L. ; weed.  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Helopus  annulatus,  Nees ; stigmas  black.  5°  5'  S.  Alt.  3600  ft. 

1.  Digitaria  sanguinalis,  L.  ; waste  grounds,  Uganda.  July,  1862. 

2.  D.  viutica?  Forsk. ; creeping  grass;  stems  a foot  high  branch  from  immediately 

above  the  rootlets ; donkeys  seek  for  and  devour  it  greedily ; looks  a sweet 
grass.  1°  40'  S.  March,  1862.  (477.) 

1.  Panicum  sp.  (near  P.  brizanthum,  Hochst.);  grows  about  cult.,  1°  40'  S.  March, 

1862.  (488.) 

2.  P.  sp.  (hear  P.  brizanthum,  Hochst.);  3 feet  high;  2°  N.,  on  plateaux.  Nov., 

1862. 

3.  P.  sp. ; 3 feet  high.  4°  18'  S.  Alt.  3800  ft.  March,  1861.  (167.) 

4.  P.  sp. ; grows  under  trees,  1°  40'  S.  Dec.,  1861.  (400.) 

5.  P.  sp.  ; very  handsome  ; 6 to  8 ft.  high  ; near  river  bank  ; two  of  its  dark  pan- 

icles very  commonly  grow  from  one  stem.  5°  S.  1861. 

1.  Oplismenus  colonus , L.  ; Nile  bank,  16°  N.  April,  1863. 

2.  O.  crus  Galli,  L.  ; grows  along  with  marsh  plants,  its  stem  lying  3 or  4 feet  on  the 

ground,  and  then  grows  6 feet  high ; diminutive  specimens  were  observed  to 
have  their  leaves  zebra-marked  (i.  e .,  with  black  bars  at  f-inch  intervals),  and 
pink  edges;  uncommon;  in  boggy  places,  5°  16'  S.,  5°  5'  S.  Aug., 1862.  (580.) 
1.  Tricliolcena  sp. ; 3 feet  high  ; by  pathways ; flowers  handsome,  and  rich  pink.  5° 

S.  Alt.  3960  ft. 

1.  Penicillaria  spicata,  “ Bajra ;”  seen  only  near  the  coast ; not  cult,  in  the  interior. 

1.  Setaria  verticillata,  Beauv. ; nasty  weed  growing  near  huts,  and  sticking  to  one’s 
clothes  ; cattle  are  said  to  die  from  eating  it.  (476.) 


APPENDIX.  537 

2.  S.  glauca,  Beany.  ; thinly  spread  over  the  Unyanyembe  forests  in  low  ground ; 

brilliant  golden  flowers. 

3.  S.  rnrea,  Hochst. ; by  path ; liable  to  small  round  fungi,  the  dust  of  which  is  eaten 

by  the  natives.  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Pennisetum  polystachyum,  Schott;  E.  Coast  Range.  Oct.,  1860. 

2.  P.  Benthami , Steud. ; “ Maweengo-weengo 10  ft.  high  reed,  with  fox-brush  flow- 

er; by  water;  equator,  3°  N.,  etc.  The  tall  white  fences  round  the  palace,  etc., 
^and  interiors  of  all  Uganda  houses,  are  of  this  reed ; a strip  from  its  bark  an- 
swers all  the  purposes  of  a knife  in  cutting  meat  up;  the  king’s  victims  are,  we 
were  told,  cut  to  pieces  with  it.  (713.) 

1.  Stipa  n.  sp.  ; the  jungle-grass  about  3°  10'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Aristida  n.  sp.  ; 3 ft.  high,  with  very  elegant  panicle,  4°  18'  S.  May,  1861.  Near 
cult.  (164.) 

1.  Sporobolus  elongatus,  R.  Br. ; 3 to  4 ft.  high,  in  grassy  jungles  of  1°  40'  to  2°  N. ; 

silvery-gray,  span  long,  close  panicle.  (482  and  563.) 

2.  S.  sp.  ; boggy  ground,  5°  S. 

1.  Arundo  phrag mites,  L. ; “Matsetre;”  8 ft.  high.  From  4°  55'  N.  to  the  Bahr-el 
Gazal  (9°  N.),  the  banks  of  the  Nile  to  the  horizon  are  a sea  of  this  reed ; at 
28°  N.  it  is  diminutive,  and  creeps  along  the  sand.  The  Waganda  on  the  equa- 
tor make  their  flutes  from  it ; said  to  grow  arm-thickness  at  Lake  N’yassa,  where 
it  is  used  in  making  huts.  (576  and  780.) 

1.  Cynodon  dactylon,  Pers. ; Indian  Dttb  grass ; cattle  love  it ; natives  at  2°  N.  make 
bedding  or  lay  their  floors  with  it.  5°  S.  to  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Dactyloctenium  AEgyptiacum ; grows  most  abundantly  on  waste  ground,  also  on 
the  flat  roofs  of  the  Arabs’  houses  in  Unyanyembe  ; natives  gather  the  ears,  dry 
them  in  the  sun,  beat  out  the  grain  on  the  rocks,  grind  and  make  stirabout  of  it. 
5°  S.,  etc.  Eeb.,  1861.  (10.) 

1.  Microchloa  setacea,  R.  Br. ; stigma  white ; light  soil,  near  water,  5°  5'  S. 

1.  Chloris  meccana,  Hochst.  ; 3 to  4 ft.  high  ; plantain-groves,  equator.  July,  1862. 

(528.) 

2.  C.  sp.  ; common,  by  paths,  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Eleusine  coracana,  Gaert. ; Murwa;  “oolezee;”  cult,  every  where  in  the  route, 

sometimes  in  ridges,  and  at  others  broadcast : its  flotfr,  if  soaked  for  a night  in 
water,  makes  very  fair  unleavened  cakes ; a coarse  beer,  tasting  pleasantly  bit- 
ter, is  made  from  its  grain,  mixed  with  that  of  doora,  i.  e.,  sorghum ; natives  also 
make  stirabout  of  it ; plantain  wine  fermented  by  it  has  an  extra  aroma  impart- 
ed to  it. 

2.  E.  Indica,  L. ; grows  in  tufts  generally ; 2 ft.  high  ; by  fields.  As  grazing  for 

cattle  the  natives  esteem  it  (though  tough)  more  than  any  other  species.  (485.) 

1.  Eraqrostis  meqastachya,  Koch.  ; in  sesamum  fields,  2°  N.,  and  also  at  16°  N. 

April,  1863.  (582L) 

2.  E.  sp. ; right  bank  Nile,  16°  N.  April,  1863. 

3.  E.  ? n.  sp. ; boggy  ground,  5°  S.  1861. 

4.  E.  ? n.  sp.  ; fine  plant ; in  tufts  by  pathway,  2°  N.  Aug.,  1862. 

5.  E.  cynosuroides,  Retz  ; 3 or  4 ft.  high,  lining  the  sandy  banks  of  the  Nile ; 1 6°  to 

17°  N.,  where  it  is  made  into  very  coarse  rope.  April,  1863.  (774-7.) 

1.  Bambusa  sp.  ; bamboo;  15  to  20  ft.  high;  2 to  3 in.  in  circ.,  in  thick  clumps, 
Usagara  Hills,  6£°,  and  not  again  till  3°  15'  N.,  where  the  natives  construct 
their  houses,  baskets,  bows,  and  spear-handles  of  it ; sides  of  rocky  streams.  (37 
and  719.  5.) 

1.  Triticum  sativum,  L.  ; wheat ; never  met  with  from  Zanzibar  to  15J°  N.  (the  Sou- 
dan), where  it  is  cult,  by  irrigation. 

XCV.  CYPERACE2E. 

1.  Cyperus  articulatus,  L. ; Nile  edges,  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

2.  C.  rotundus,  L. ; 5°  6'  S.  Alt.  3800  ft. 

3.  C.  sp.  (same  from  Barter) ; Rush;  Nile  edges,  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

4.  C.  sguarrosus,  Rottb. ; on  rocky  heights,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

5.  C.  aristatus,  Rottb. ; diminutive.  5°  S.,  1860;  and  2°  N.  1862. 

6.  C. pulvinatus,~Nees ; common;  in  tufts;  marshes,  2°  N.  Sept.,  1862. 

7.  C.  mucronatus,  Rottb.  ; the  only  vegetation  within  arm’s-length  of  the  bubbling 

from  a hot  spring  (too  hot  for  the  hand),  abundant  all  round  it ; near  Zungomth 
ro,  3°  33'  S. 


588 


APPENDIX. 


8.  C/jperus  difformis,Jj.  •,  moist-ground;  hill-sides,  3°  15' N.  Dec.,  1862. 

9.  C.  Jlavescens,  L.  ; in  tufts  ; low  rocky  ground,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

10.  C.  alopecuroides,  Rottb. ; “Magadee;”  8 ft.  high;  useful  as  thatch  ; Little  Win- 
dermere, 1°  40'  S.  March,  1862.  (480.) 

11.  C.  longus,  L.  ; grows  on  cataract  rocks  at  Gherri,  16°  N.,  etc. ; also  on  the  rocky 
edges  of  the  E.  Asua,  3°  40'  N.  ; camels  devour  it  greedily  on  arriving  from  the 
Nubian  desert.  (774-6.) 

12.  C.  denudatus,  L.  5°  S.  Alt.  3960  ft.  Stigmas  white,  stem  triangular. 

13.  C.  spherocephalus,  Vahl. ; golden-yellow  flower.  6°  S.  Alt.  4488  ft.  Jan.  1, 
1861. 

14.  C.  lanceus,  Thunk  ; deep  brown  flowers.  6°  S.  Jan.  1,1861. 

15.  C.  sp. ; on  sand,  near  water,  5°  6'  S.  Alt.  3800  ft. 

1.  Papyrus  antiquorum ; morasses,  Zanzibar  Island.  The  shallow  borders  of  Lakes 
Victoria  and  Windermere  are  thickets  of  this  rush,  growing  to  15  ft.  high.  Nile 
banks,  4°  56'  N.  Not  so  much  of  it  farther  north.  Uses — leaves  eaten  by  wa- 
ter boc,  and  made  into  soft  bedding  at  1°  40'  S.  Stem  made  into  screens ; 
strips  from  the  bark  make  beautiful  fish-cruives ; and  at  Unyoro,  a bundle  of 
pith,  cut  into  long  strips,  forms  a wrapper  or  covers  a jar.  (386.) 

1.  Mariscus  umbellatus,  Vahl. ; hill-top.  Alt.  5500  ft.  1°40'S.  Dec.,  1861.  (412.) 

2.  M.  sp. ; 2 ft.  high  ; E.  Coast  Range.  Oct.,  1860. 

1.  Kyllingia  sp. ; flower  white,  round  hill-top,  by  water.  Dec.,  1861.  (410.) 

2.  K.  alba?  Nees.  Zanzibar;  and  2°  N.,  by  moist  ground.  Nov.,  1862. 

3.  K.  macrocephala?  “KeelSlo,”  18  inches  high;  sweetly  perfumed;  roots  purple; 

the  latter  are  pounded  by  Wanyamue'zi  women,  and  rubbed  on  their  bodies  as  a 
scent;  by  rocky  burn,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.  15, 1862.  (693.) 

4.  K.  aurea,  Nees;  common  in  moist  woods,  6°  4'  S.  Alt.  4068  ft.  Dec.,  1860. 

1.  Fuirena umbellata?  Rottb. ; “Keekal’a.”  3 ft.  long;  five-sided,  sharp-edged  ; lodg- 

ing plant  on  sandy  edges  of  burn.  Madi,  Dec.  21, 1862.  Root  imbedded  a foot 
deep.  Natives  extract  salt  from  its  ashes;  flowers  whorl  up  the  stem.  (721.) 

2.  F.pubescens,  Kunth. ; 1 ft.  high.  6°  S.  Jan.  1,1862. 

3.  F.  sp. ; in  tufts  on  swamps,  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1 . Isolepis  saviana?  diminutive  plant ; marshes,  2°  N.  Sept.,  1862. 

1.  Trichelostylis  sp.  4°  18'  S.  April,  1861.  (168.) 

2.  T.  sp. ; 2 ft.  high  ; stigmas  rust-colored.  4°  18'  and  5°  55'  S.  Alt.  3700  ft. 

1.  Abilgaardia  monostachya,  Vahl.  ; grassy  plateaux,  2°  N.  Nov.,  1862. 

2.  A.  pilosa,  Nees ; forest ; near  5°  S. 

1.  Scleria  sp. ; grows  7 ft.  high  in  an  erect  bush,  on  burn  side,  3°  15'  N.  Eruit  re- 

sembling diminutive  acorns;  leaves  sharp-edged.  Jan.,  1863. 

2.  S.  sp.  ; 1 ft.  high  ; marshes,  2°  N.  Aug.,  1862. 

3.  S.  sp. ; 6 in.  high  ; growing  in  tufts  on  soil  the  debris  of  rock ; seeds  white,  three- 

cornered  and  milky ; stem  three-cornered  ; fibrous  roots  are  red-purple ; whole 
plant  delicately  scented.  Dec.,  1862.  (668.) 

1.  Diplacrum  caricinum,  R.  Br.  ; very  diminutive  ; sandy  soil.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Antrolepis,  Welw.  n.  g.  sp.  n. ; 4 to  9 in.  high;  growing  like  white  daisies  in  rather 
moist  places.  Alt.  3900  ft.  5°  26'  S.  Uncommon. 

1.  Lipocarpha  argentea,  R.  Br. ; in  tufts  on  moist  ground  ; below  Madi  rocks.  (684.) 

XCVI.  FILICES. 

1.  Asplenium  furcatum,  L.  3°  15'  N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Actiniopteris  radiata,  B.  Jan.  11,  1861. 

1.  Nephrodium  propinquum,  Hr.  Nov.,  1862. 

1.  Nephrolepis  tuberosa,  Pr.  3°  15' N.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Phymatodes  vulgaris , Pr.  (simple  frond).  Zanzibar. 

P.  vulgaris  (pinnate  frond).  Zanzibar. 

1.  Ceratopteris  thalictroides,  Bury , in  bog,  Madi.  Dec.,  1862. 

1.  Marsilia  quadrifolia,  L.  Nile.  March  9, 1863. 

1.  Lycopodium  nipestre,Jj.  Madi.  Nov.,  1862. 


NOTES  ON  OTHER  PLANTS  PARTLY  FROM  NATIVE  INFORMATION. 
M’bango  (Kisuahili)  ; hard,  heavy  wood,  on  logs  of  which  the  bark  cloths  of  Unyoro 
are  beaten.  (107.) 


APPENDIX.  539 

M’cherengeh  (Kis.);  the  Wanyambo  make  their  milk-pots  from  this  wood,  as  it 
smells  sweetly.  (109.) 

Chenjha  (Kis.) ; M’Keendah  (Kinyoro)  ; (seeds  only)  10  ft.  circ.  tree ; one  to  three 
stoned  edible  fruit.  (93.) 

M’deeree  (Kin.)  ; natives  cure  fever  from  a decoction  of  its  fibrous  roots.  (116.1.) 

Ktannee  (Kis.);  its  fibre  made  into  rope.  (5.) 

M’K5ma  (Kin.) ; 12  ft.  circ. ; black-hearted  wood  ; made  into  bows,  etc.  (131.) 

“ M’Koonoongo”  (Kis.);  6 ft.  circ.,  with  black,  angry  thorn;  incised  bar  smells 
strongly  of  citron ; rose-colored  wood,  used  as  railings,  and  thought  most  endur- 
able ; tooth-scrubbers,  which  induce  saliva,  and  the  steam  from  the  boiled  seeds 
scents  clothes ; its  bows  are  esteemed,  and  its  powdered  bark  yields  a scarlet 
dye.  (98,  etc.) 

Miloombo  (Kis.) ; the  most  common  of  all  the  bark-cloth  trees. 

Meeleendee  meela  (Kis.);  M’Songo  (Kin.);  wood  made  into  drum-sticks  and  har- 
monicons.  (120,  etc.) 

Moowale  (Kis.) ; palm,  yielding  the  most  beautiful,  strong,  soft  fibre,  made  into  gui- 
tar-strings, cloths,  used  for  stringing  beads,  and  called  “ootembweh.”  (70.) 

Mizzizeema  (Unyoro)  ; made  into  canoes,  45  feet  long.  (502.) 

M’nyameet’a  (Karague') ; fruit-tree;  three  stones  in  each  fruit.  (428.) 

M’pembsezoo  (Kis.);  roots  used  as  purgatives.  4°  S.  (112.) 

M’talawanda  (Kis.) ; walnut-colored  wood;  fruit  edible;  gun-stocks,  also  long  hand- 
drums  of  Karagde  made  of  it.  4°  to  2°  N.  Large  yellow  deciduous  flowers. 
(660.1.) 

M’tatee  (Kin.) ; Wanyamfiezi  forest  tree ; 12  ft.  circ.,  with  cedar-colored  wood,  and 
small  edible  fruit ; first-rate  bows.  (102.) 

M’teessa  (Uganda);  40  to  50  ft. high;  unbranched  stem  and  not  a palm.  Uganda 
dells.  (518.) 

M’toondoo  ; Wanyamuezi  forests;  12  ft.  circ.  Uses — drums,  beams,  troughs,  etc., 
and  bark  made  into  vats  for  grain,  planks,  and  rope ; resembles  the  “ Miombo ;” 
might  camp  half  a regiment  under  it ; fruit  flat-marble  size  and  shape ; very 
pleasant-tasting  fig.  (5  and  661.) 

M’toom’wew ; an  ash-stick-like  wood,  growing  in  the  Eipa  district ; its  pure  white 
kernels  are  worn  as  beads. 

Uranga  (Kis.);  arrowroot-like,  herbaceous  plant,  grown  in  Usagara ; leaf,  petiole, 
and  root  all  eaten.  (16.) 

M’Vooleh  (Kis.)  ; uses — immense  canoes  and  large  purposes.  (512.) 

M’Yokka  Yokka ; an  18  ft.  high  tree ; a decoction  from  the  bark  of  its  root  and  stem 
is  red,  tastes  like  quinine,  and  is  used  medicinally.  (115.1.) 

Yoomboo  (Kis.) ; a tuber,  resembling  and  tasting  like  Jerusalem  artichokes ; cult.  4° 
18'  S.  and  1°  S.  (86.) 

M’yezi  (Kin.) ; palm,  at  Ugigi,  from  which  an  oil  is  extracted.  (719.) 

Crowfoot-shaped,  straw-colored,  18  inch  high  vessel,  with  numerous  arms,  and  centre 
only  racket-ball  size ; only  one  found  blowing  about  in  the  forest.  34°  S.  (390.) 

Large,  handsome,  densely-foliaged,  sombre  tree,  with  deep  green,  simple  leaves,  whose 
yellow,  stoned  fruit  resembles  in  shape  and  taste  the  Loquat  of  India,  but  is 
smaller.  Found  only  about  the  equator.  (511.) 

M’pembo  ; 12  feet  in  girth,  with  simple  elliptical  leaves ; fruit  rough,  russet-brown, 
peach-size,  tasting  insipidly,  with  a large  stone  ; uses — canoes,  drums,  etc.  7° 
S.  13th  Nov.,  1860.  (2.) 

Mineenga,  or  moosimbatee  (leaf  only).  Leaf  unequally  pinnate ; perhaps  Legumi- 
nosas ; 12  to  20  ft.  in  girth ; handsome-foliaged,  clean-looking  tree,  giving  out  a 
blood-red  sticky  juice  on  incision.  Uses — grain-mortars,  drums,  spurtles,  pipe- 
bowls.  The  fruit  mashed  is  considered  a remedy  for  cough.  Wood  is  imper- 
vious to  insects,  smells  pleasantly,  and  is  of  a rosewood  color.  4°  S.  and  3°  15' 
N.  1862-3.  (33  and  686.5.) 

Mosho  (leaves  only).  Tree  with  simple  opposite  leaves.  Bark  can  be  crumbled  off 
with  the  nail.  Fruit,  not  edible,  said  to  be  one-stoned  and  scarlet.  The  roots 
burnt  are  used  for  fumigating  wooden  milk-pots — a thick,  sticky,  dark  gum, 
coming  off  yellow  on  the  fingers,  lies  under  the  bark ; Madi  rocks,  3°  15'  N. 
1863.  (741.) 

J.  A.  Grant,  Captain  Bengal  Army. 


590 


APPENDIX. 


NOTE  ON  CAPTAIN  GRANT’S  COLLECTION  OF  PLANTS. 

By  Dr.  T.  Thomson,  F.E.S. 

Captain  Grant  having,  on  his  return  from  Africa,  presented  his  collection  to  the 
Hookerian  Herbarium,  the  determination  of  the  specimens  was  begun  by  Mr.  Black, 
the  curator,  and  was  made  over  by  him  to  me  when  he  was  unfortunately  obliged  to 
give  it  up  from  ill  health.  The  collection  consists  of  about  750  species,  represented 
for  the  most  part  by  single  good  specimens,  carefully  ticketed,  with  numbers  attached 
referring  to  a note-book  in  which  all  essential  points  of  habit  and  uses  are  entered. 

The  catalogue  is  based  on  a comparison  of  the  specimens  with  the  Hookerian  Her- 
barium, and  is  necessarily  imperfect  in  the  present  state  of  our  knowledge  of  the  Af- 
rican flora.  Large  collections  have  of  late  years  been  made  in  Eastern  Africa  by 
Kirk  and  Meller  of  Dr.  Livingstone’s  expedition,  and  in  Western  Africa  by  Baikie, 
Barter,  and  Mann ; but  they  are  still,  for  the  most  part,  undescribed.  A general  flora 
of  Tropical  Africa  is,  however,  I believe,  contemplated  by  government,  on  the  recom- 
mendation of  Sir  W.  Hooker. 

For  the  present,  a few  general  observations  are  all  that  can  be  made  on  this  inter- 
esting collection.  It  consists  in  all,  as  already  mentioned,  of  750  species,  collected 
between  Zanzibar  and  the  southern  border  of  Egypt.  Of  these,  420  belong  to  known 
species,  and  this  number  might,  no  doubt,  be  increased  to  450  by  more  careful  re- 
search. We  may,  therefore,  say  that  three  fifths  (perhaps  even  two  thirds)  of  the 
whole  are  published  species.  Of  these,  two  thirds  at  least,  on  a rough  estimate,  have 
been  collected  by  previous  travelers,  so  that  not  more  than  80  or  100  species  are  quite 
new.  Even  this  is  probably  an  overestimate. 

Leaving  out  of  consideration  the  Egyptian  plants,  which  were  only  met  with  at  or 
near  the  north  tropic,  a general  survey  of  the  collection  shows  the  great  uniformity 
of  tropical  African  vegetation.  The  small  number  of  plants  indicates  a poor  flora, 
and  therefore  probably  a comparatively  dry  climate.  We  find  in  it  a great  number 
of  widely-diffused  tropical  weeds,  most  of  them  common  to  India  and  Africa.  The 
cultivated  plants,  which,  it  will  be  seen,  have  been  carefully  collected  or  noted,  are 
also  generally  diffused. 

The  new  plants  belong,  for  the  most  part,  to  African  genera ; but  there  are  two 
(Harrisonia  and  Soymida ) which  were  previously  only  known  as  Indian.  The  Um- 
belliferce,  which  are  very  remarkable,  belong  to  Abyssinian  types.  Several  Cape  gen- 
era are  represented,  as,  for  instance,  Arctotis  and  Cullumia,  among  thistles ; Heben- 
streitia,  Protea , Gnidia.  The  Melastomacece,  and  many  of  the  Labiatce , recall  the  Mad- 
agascar flora ; and  in  the  Anona , Lophira , and  Landolphia  we  have  marked  West 
African  forms. 

Besides  a very  curious  new  genus  of  Leguminosce,  and  another  of  Cyperacece,  which 
had  already  been  sent  to  England  by  Kirk  and  Welwitsch,  there  are  seemingly  new 
and  remarkable  genera  of  Amarantacece,  Scrophulariaceoe,  Labiatce,  and  Asphodelece, 
and  a very  curious  plant,  unfortunately  in  imperfect  condition,  of  which  the  order  is 
undeterminable  without  better  materials. 


THE  END. 


Standard  Works 


OF 

Discovery  and  Adventure  in  Africa. 

PUBLISHED  BY 

HARPER  8c  BROTHERS,  Franklin  Square,  H.  Y. 

SS~  Sent  by  Mail-,  postage  pre-paid,  on  receipt  of  price. 


The  amount  of  travel  literature  which  I-Iae^er  & Brothers  have  published  relating  to  Africa 
makes  a curious  list , and  illustrates  the  bent  of  geographical  and  political  examination  for  some 
time  past.  The  octavos  of  Burton , Barth , Livingstone,  Du  Chaillu,  Davis,  and  a number  of  other 
celebrated  travellers,  form  a small  library,  all  the  result  of  the  last  few  years'  devotion  to  African 
exploration. — N.  Y.  Journal  of  Commerce. 


Speke’s  Africa.  Journal  of  the  Discovery  of  the  Sources  of  the  Nile.  By 
John  Hanning  Speke,  Captain  H.  M.  Indian  Army,  Bellow  and  Gold  Medalist  of 
the  Eoyal  Geographical  Society,  Hon.  Corr.  Member  and  Gold  Medalist  of  the 
French  Geographical  Society,  &c.  With  Map  and  Portraits,  and  numerous  Illus- 
trations, chiefly  from  Drawings  by  Captain  Grant.  8vo,  Cloth,  $3  50. 

Reade’s  Savage  Africa.  Western  Africa  : being  the  Narrative  of  a Tour  of 
Equatorial,  Southwestern,  and  Northwestern  Africa ; with  Notes  on  the  Habits  of 
the  Gorilla;  on  the  Existence  of  Unicorns  and.  Tailed  Men;  on  the  Slave  Trade; 
on  the  Origin,  Character,  and  Capabilities  of  the  Negro,  and  of  the  future  Civili- 
zation of  Western  Africa.  By  W.  Winwood  Reade,  Fellow  of  the  Geog.  and  An- 
thropological Soc.  of  Lond.,  and  Corr.  Member  of  the  Geog.  Soc.  of  Paris.  With 
Illustrations  and  a Map.  8vo,  Cloth.  (In  Press .) 

Du  Chaillu’s  Equatorial  Africa.  Explorations  and  Adventures  in  Equato- 
rial Africa ; with  Accounts  of  the  Manners  and  Customs  of  the  People,  and  of  the 
Chase  of  the  Gorilla,  the  Crocodile,  Leopard,  Elephant,  Hippopotamus,  and  other 
Animals.  By  Paul  B.  du  Chaillu,  Corr.  Member  of  the  Amer.  Ethnological 
Soc. ; of  the  Geog.  and  Statistical  Soc.  of  New  York,  and  of  the  Bost.  Soc.  of  Nat. 
Hist.  Maps  and  numerous  Illustrations.  8vo,  Cloth,  $3  75. 

Baldwin’s  African  Hunting.  African  Hunting  from  Natal  to  the  Zambesi, 
including  Lake  Ngami,  the  Kalahari  Desert,  &c.,  from  1852  to  1860.  By  William 
Chaeles  Baldwin,  E.R.G.S.  With  Map,  Fifty  Illustrations  by  Wolf  and  Zweck- 
er,  and  a Portrait  of  the  Great  Sportsman.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

Andersson’s  Okavango  River.  The  Okavango  River : A Narrative  of 
Travel,  Exploration,  and  Adventure.  By  Charles  John  Andersson,  Author  of 
“Lake  Ngami.”  With  Steel  Portrait  of  the  Author,  numerous  Wood-cuts,  and 
a Map  showing  the  Regions  explored  by  Andersson,  Cumming,  Livingstone,  Bur- 
ton, and  Du  Chaillu.  8vo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

Andersson’s  Lake  Ngami.  Lake  Ngami;  or,  Explorations  and  Discoveries 
during  Four  Years’  Wanderings  in  the  Wilds  of  Southwestern  Africa.  By  Charles 
John  Andersson.  With  numerous  Illustrations,  representing  Sporting  Adven- 
tures, Subjects  for  Natural  History,  Devices  for  destroying  Wild  Animals,  &c. 
New  Edition.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  00. 

Livingstone’s  South  Africa.  Missionary  Travels  and  Researches  in  South 
Africa;  including  a Sketch  of  a Sixteen  Years’  Residence  in  the  Interior  of  Africa, 
and  a Journey  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  Loando  on  the  West  Coast;  thence 
across  the  Continent,  down  the  River  Zambesi,  to  the  Eastern  Ocean.  By  David 
Livingstone,  LL.D.,  D.C.L.  With  Portrait,  Maps,  and  numerous  Illustrations. 
8vo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 


2 Standard  Works  of  Discovery  and  Adventure  in  Africa. 

Davis’s  Carthage.  Carthage  and  her  Remains : Being  an  Account  of  the  Ex- 
cavations and  Researches  on  the  Site  of  the  Phoenician  Metropolis  in  Africa  and 
other  adjacent  Places,  under  the  Auspices  of  Her  Majesty’s  Government.  By  Dr. 
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i* 

Burton’s  Central  Africa.  The  Lake  Regions  of  Central  Africa.  A Picture 
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Medalist  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society.  With  Maps  and  Engravings  on 
Wood.  8vo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 

Barth’s  North  and  Central  Africa.  Travels  and  Discoveries  in  North  and 
Central  Africa.  Being  a Journal  of  an  Expedition  undertaken,  under  the  Auspices 
of  H.B.M.’s  Government  in  the  Years  1849-1855.  By  Henry  Barth,  Ph.D., 
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Cumming’s  South  Africa.  Five  Years  of  a Hunter’s  Life  in  the  Interior  of 
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Wilson’s  Western  Africa.  Western  Africa:  Its  History,  Condition,  and 
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ca. With  numerous  Engravings.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  25. 

Mr.  WilsoD,  an  American  missionary,  lias  written  the  best  book  I have  seen  on  the  West  Coast. 

— Dr.  Livingstone,  Rivershire,  W.  Africa , Feb.  20,  1863. 

Discovery  and  Adventures  in  Africa.  Condensed  Abstracts  of  the  Narra- 
tives of  African  Travellers.  By  Professor  Jameson,  James  Wilson,  and  Hugh 
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The  Life  and  Adventures  of  Bruce,  the  African  Traveller.  By  Major 
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Lander’s  Niger  Expedition.  Journal  of  an  Expedition  to  explore  the 
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River  to  its  Termination.  By  R.  and  J.  Lander.  Engravings.  2 vols.  18mo, 
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Urquhart’s  Pillars  of  Hercules.  The  Pillars  of  Hercules;  or,  A Narrative 
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12mo,  Cloth,  $2  50. 

Owen’s  Voyages.  Voyages  to  explore  the  Shores  of  Africa,  Arabia,  and 
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2 vols.  12mo,  Cloth,  $1  50. 

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MADAGASCAR. 

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ney round  the  World”). 

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With  a Map  and  Wood-cuts  from  Photographs,  &c.  8vo,  Cloth,  $3  00. 


HARPER’S  MAGAZINE. 


Iu  the  April  Number  of  Harper’s  Magazine  is  commenced  the 
publication  of  DENIS  D UVAL , the  story  upon  which  Thackeray 
was  engaged  at  the  time  of  his  death.  Of  this  Charles  Dickens 
says : “ In  respect  of  earnestness  of  feeling,  far-seeing  purpose,  char- 
acter, incident,  and  a certain  loving  picturesqueness  blending  the 
whole , I believe  it  to  be  much  the  best  of  all  his  works! 

By  special  arrangement  with  Mr.  Charles  Dickens,  a new 
Nov.el  by  him  will  be  published  in  Harper’s  Magazine  simultane- 
ously with  its  appearance  in  England.  The  Publishers  hope  to  com- 
mence the  issue  of  this  N ovel  in  the  Magazine  for  May. 

Haepee’s  Magazine  has  contained  several  of  the  best  Serial 
Novels  of  Bulwer,  Dickens,  Thackeray,  Lever,  Trollope,  Reade, 
Miss  Evans,  and  Miss  Mulock,  besides  Essays,  Tales,  and  Poems 
from  the  foremost  American  and  British  writers. 

Historical  and  Biographical  Papers,  especially  those  relating  to 
American  subjects,  have  formed  a distinctive  feature  of  the  Maga- 
zine. 

The  results  of  the  Explorations  and  Adventures  of  the  most  dis- 
tinguished travelers  have  been  presented  in  careful  abstracts. 

The  Editorial  Departments  comprise  a careful  summary  of  the 
history  of  the  times,  with  comments  upon  the  current  topics  of 
thought  and  remark. 

Wherever  Pictorial  Illustrations  could  add  to  the  value  or  interest 
of  an  article  they  have  been  freely  used.  The  Magazine  has  contain- 
ed nearly  nine  thousand  engravings. 

The  Magazine  gained  at  once  the  foremost  place  among  Ameri- 
can periodicals ; and  its  circulation  has  for  years  exceeded,  as  it  now 
exceeds,  that  of  all  other  periodicals  of  its  class  issued  in  the  United 
States.  No  effort  or  cost  will  be  spared  by  the  Publishers  to  insure 
that  the  Magazine  shall  maintain  the  position  which  it  has  won. 

The  Twenty-Eight  Volumes  of  the  Magazine  contain  matter  equivalent  to  more 
than  two  hundred  duodecimo  volumes.  Most  of  this  is  of  permanent  value.  A 
complete  set  of  the  Magazine  will  therefore  he  a desirable  acquisition  to  any  pri- 
vate, public,  or  school  library.  The  Publishers  will  furnish  the  volumes,  neatly 
bound  in  Cloth,  for  Two  Dollars  and  Eifty  Cents  each,  or  they  would  furnish  a 
complete  set,  28  vols.,  for  $56,  nett  Cash,  the  freight  to  be  paid  by  the  purchaser. 
The  same  amount  of  matter,  with  an  equal  number  of  illustrations,  issued  in  or- 
dinary volumes,  would  cost  more  than  Three  Hundred  Dollars.  Any  single  vol- 
ume will  be  sent  by  mail,  post-paid,  to  any  part  of  the  United  States,  for  Two 
Dollars  and  Fifty  Cents ; or  any  single  Number  for  Twenty-five  Cents. 


TERMS. — One  Copy  for  One  Year,  $3  00;  Tvo  Copies  for  One  Year,  $5  50;  “Haefee’s  Mag- 
azine" and  “Haepee’s  Weekly,"  One  Year,  $5  50.  And  an  Extra  Copy , gratis,  for  every  Club 
of  Ten  Suesceibees,  at  $2  75  each;  or,  11  Copies  for  $27  50. 

Clergymen  and  Teachers  supplied  at  $2  75  a year.  The  Semi-Annual  Volumes  hound  in 
Cloth.  $2  50  per  volume.  Muslin  Covers,  25  cents  each,  Nett:  when  ordered  to  be  sent  by  Mail, 
Eight  Cents  additional  must  be  remitted  for  postage. 


HARPER’S  WEEKLY  FOR  1864. 


Harper’s  Weekly  is  devoted  to  Art,  Literature,  General  Information,  and  Pol- 
itics. It  will  contain  a carefully  condensed  and  impartial  record  of  the  events  of 
the  day,  pictorially  illustrated  wherever  the  pencil  of  the  Artist  can  aid  the  pen  of 
the  Writer.  In  Politics  it  will  advocate  the  National  Cause,  wholly  irrespective 
of  mere  party  grounds.  Its  Essays,  Poems,  and  Tales  will  be  furnished  by  the 
ablest  writers  of  both  Continents.  A new  Novel,  by  Mr.  George  Augustus  Sala, 
entitled  “QUITE  ALONE,”  will,  by  special  arrangement  with  the  Author,  ap- 
pear in  the  Weekly  simultaneously  with  its  publication  in  Mr.  Dickens’s  “All  the 
Year  Round.’'  The  Publishers  will  see  to  it  that  the  current  Volume  shall  justify 
the  favorable  opinions  expressed  by  the  loyal  Press  upon  the  Volume  which  has 
just  closed. 

Extracts  from  Notices  by  the  Press. 

“IIabpee's  Weekly  is  the  best  publication  of  its  class  in  America,  and  so  far  ahead  of  all  other 
weekly  journals  as  not  to  permit  of  any  comparison  between  it  and  any  of  their  number.  Its  col- 
umns contain  the  finest  collections  of  reading  matter  that  are  printed.  Thus,  if  you  look  into  the 
Volume  for  1863,  you  will  find  that  its  stories,  and  miscellaneous  articles,  and  poetry  are  from  the 
minds  of  some  of  the  leading  writers  of  the  time.  Its  matter  is  of  a very  various  character  from 
elaborate  tales  and  well-considered  editorial  articles  to  the  airiest  and  briefest  jests,  good-humored 
hits  at  the  expense  of  human  follies,  which  proceed  from  the  liveliest  of  minds.  It  is  a vigorous 
supporter  of  the  war — discussing  all  questions  that  concern  the  contest  in  which  we  are  engaged 
with  an  amplitude  of  perception  and  a breadth  of  patriotism  that  place  it  very  high  indeed  on  the 
roll  of  loyal  and  liberal  publications.  Its  illustrations  are  numerous  and  beautiful,  being  furnished 
by  the  chief  artists  of  the  country.  Most  of  the  illustrations  are  devoted  to  the  war,  including  bat- 
tle-pieces, scenes  made  renowned  by  great  events  there  occurring,  and  portraits  of  eminent  military 
and  civil  leaders.  Even  a person  who  could  not  read  a line  of  its  letter-press  could  intelligently 
follow  the  history  of  the  war  through  1863  by  going  over  the  pictured  pages  of  this  volume.” — Even- 
ing Traveller  (Boston.) 

“Haepee’s  Weekly,  besides  being  a literary  paper  of  the  first  class — the  only  one  among  American 
or  European  Pictorials  with  a definite  purpose  consistently  and  constantly  carried  out — is  at  once  a 
leading  political  and  historical  annalist  of  the  nation.” — The  Press  (Philadelphia). 

“IIaeper’s  Weekly In  turning  over  its  pages,  we  were  struck  anew  with  the  fidelity  with 

which  it  delineates  passing  events : a true  picture  of  the  times.  The  scenes  of  the  war,  portrayed 
by  the  graphic  pencils  of  artists  on  the  battle-field  and  in  the  camp,  are  re-produced  in  excellent 
wood-cuts  with  marvelous  promptness  and  accuracy.  The  letter-press  furnishes  an  appropriate  ac- 
companiment to  the  illustrations  ; presenting  a pleasing  variety,  sprightly  and  entertaining.  We 
can  not  wonder  at  the  popularity  of  the  Weekly  when  we  observe  the  spirit  and  enterprise  with 
which  it  is  conducted.” — Journal  (Boston). 

“Harper’s  Weekly  eoe  1863. — From  a careful  examination  of  this  work,  as  it  came  out  in  its 
weekly  forni,  we  can  honestly  advise  our  readers  to  purchase  the  stately  and  pictured  volume.  We 
dare  not  say  how  many  duodecimo  volumes  of  matter,  and  of  good  and  interesting  matter,  it  con- 
tains. As  a record  of  the  events  and  opinions  of  the  past  year,  and  as  literally  a picture  of  the 
time,  it  has  a permanent  value,  while  its  wealth  of  excellent  stories  and  essays  makes  it  an  endless 
source  of  entertainment.  The  original  editorial  article?  are  of  a very  high  order  of  merit,  and  re- 
late to  subjects  which  attract  the  attention  of  all  intelligent  and  patriotic  minds.  Soundness  of 
thought,  liberality  of  sentiment,  and  thorough-going  loyalty  find  expression  in  the  most  exquisite 
English.  Altogether,  we  should  say  that  Harper's  Weekly  is  a necessity  in  every  household.” — 
The  Transcript  (Boston). 

“Haepek’s  Weekly  and  Magazine,  with  their  immense  circulation,  are  grandly  loyal  and  influ- 
ential. The  Weekly  especially  has  been  true  to  the  cause ; and  while  it  gives  in  admirable  corre- 
spondence and  accurate  pictures  a complete  illustrated  history  of  the  war,  with  all  its  battles,  inci- 
dents, and  portraits  of  generals,  it  has  splendidly  enforced  by  argument  and  example  its  principles. 
Closer  reasoning  is  not  to  be  found  than  that  to  which  its  editors  might  fairly  challenge  answer.” 
— City  Item  (Philadelphia). 


Notices  of  Harper's  Weekly.  2 

“ Harper’s  Weekly,  of  which  the  Seventh  Volume  is  now  issued  in  neat,  substantial  binding, 
shows  the  industry  and  zeal  with  which  the  cause  of  the  Union  has  been  maintained  in  it3  columns 
during  the  year  1S63.  It  has  continued  to  increase  the  fervor  of  patriotic  sentiment  as  well  by  its 
appropriate  pictorial  illustrations  as  by  its  able  editorial  leaders  commenting  on  the  events  of  the 
day.  In  its  present  shape,  the  journal  furnishes  copious  materials  for  the  history  of  the  war,  and 
can  not  fail  to  find  a place  in  public  and  private  libraries  as  an  important  volume  for  permanent  ref- 
erence.”— Tribune  (New  York). 

u Harper’s  Weekly  for  1S6B — a journal  of  the  year,  kept  in  the  most  interesting  way;  and  as 
we  turn  over  the  pages  we  revive  many  now  almost  forgotten  sensations,  and  see,  bit  by  bit,  how 
history  has  grown.  The  volume  closed  and  bound  up  becomes  history ; but  it  would  not  be  just  to 
this  publication  to  omit  a remark  on  the  influence  which  it  has  exerted  during  the  year,  and  which 
it  continues  to  exert.  An  illustrated  journal  like  Harper's  Weekly , which  circulates,  a3  we  have 
heard,  over  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  copies  per  week,  chiefly  among  families,  and  which 
has  probably  a million  of  readers,  has  necessarily  a great  influence  in  the  country.  The  Weekly  has 
consistently  and  very  ably  supported  the  Union,  the  Government,  and  the  great  principles  to  develop 
which  the  Union  was  founded.  Unlike  most  illustrated  journals,  Harper's  Weekly  has  displayed  po- 
litical and  literary  ability  of  a high  order  as  well  as  artistic  merit.  Its  political  discussions  are 
sound,  clear,  and  convincing,  and  have  done  their  share  to  educate  the  American  people  to  a right 
understanding  of  their  dangers  and  duties.  In  its  speciality — illustrations  of  passing  events — it  is 
unsurpassed;  and  many  of  the  pictures  of  the  year  do  honor  to  the  genius  of  the  artists  and  engravers 
of  this  country.  Thus  complete  in  all  the  departments  of  an  American  Family  Journal,  Harper’s 
Weekly  has  earned  for  itself  a right  to  the  title  which  it  assumed  seven  years  ago,  6 A Journal  of 
Civilization.'’  ” — Evening  Post  (New  York). 

Harper’s  Weekly. — This  periodical  merits  special  notice  at  the  present  time.  There  is  probably 
no  weekly  publication  of  the  country  that  equals  its  influence.  More  than  one  hundred  thousand 
copies  fly  over  the  land  weekly : they  are  read  in  our  cars,  steamboats,  and  families.  Our  youth  es- 
pecially read  them  ; and  as  the  family  newspaper  of  the  nation,  its  power  over  the  forming  opinions 
of  the  next  generation  of  the  American  people  is  an  important  item. 

It  is  abundant,  if  not  superabundant,  in  pictorial  illustrations — a means  of  strong  impression,  es- 
pecially on  the  minds  of  the  young.  Both  by  its  illustrations  and  its  incessant  discussion  of  the  oc- 
currences and  questions  of  the  war  it  is  a “ current  history”  and  *4 running  commentary”  on  the 
great  event,  and  there  is  probably  no  literary  agency  of  the  day  more  effective  in  its  influence  re- 
specting the  war  in  the  families  of  the  common  people.  Most  happy  are  we  then  to  be  able  to  say  that 
this  responsible  power  is  exerted  altogether  on  the  side  of  loyalty.  No  paper  in  the  land  is  more  out- 
spoken, more  uncompromising  for  the  Union,  for  the  war,  for  even  the  policy  of  the  President’s 
“great  Proclamation.”  When  the  rebellion  broke  out  we  did  the  publishers  the  injustice  of  some 
anxious  fears  about  their  probable  course  on  the  subject. 

Steadily  have  they  kept  up  with  the  Providential  development  of  its  events  and  questions ; not 
only  abreast  of  them,  but,  in  important  respects,  ahead  of  them.  No  periodical  press  in  the  nation 
deserves  better  of  the  country  for  its  faithfulness  and  “ pluck”  in  all  matters  relating  to  the  great 
struggle.  And  we  should  do  it  injustice  were  we  not  to  add  that,  with  its  outright  loyalty  and 
bravery,  it  combines  commanding  ability.  The  editorial  leaders  which  it  continuously  flings  out 
against  all  political  traitors  and  flunkies  strike  directly  at  their  mark.  They  are  evidently  from 
pens  both  strong  and  polished.  On  even  the  astuter  subjects  of  policy,  finance,  &c.,  it  is  eminently 
able.  And  it  makes  no  mistake  in  supposing  its  readers  capable  of  an  interest  and  of  intelligence  in 
these  respects.  American  families  look  keenly  into  such  questions,  and  with  such  a really  educa- 
tional force  as  this  paper  wields,  it  is  especially  right  and  commendable  that  it  seeks  to  elevate  the 
common  mind  to  the  higher  questions  of  the  times.  The  American  people  will  not  fail  to  notice  and 
to' remember  the  courageous  and  patriotic  course  of  Harper's  Weekly  in  these  dark  times  of  hideous 
treason,  and  of  more  hideous,  because  more  contemptible,  semi-treason.— The  Methodist , N.  Y. 


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